Framed Art Pillows

Hi, I am Lynne, a UK quilter from Lily’s Quilts.  As soon as I saw Lu Summers’ new line for Moda, Summersville, I had lots of ideas for quilts and pillows.  I also wanted to come up with a quick and simple pillow project to use the statement print layer cake slices we probably all have in our stash.   These pillows are quick to make and are a piece of art for your sofa.  They would also make great gifts for friends who might not appreciate the fussiness, intricacy and patchworkiness of some quilted pillows but would love a bold and simple statement piece for their home.  If you make a version of this pillow, I would love to see it in my Lily’s Quilts Flickr group.

One layer cake slice per pillow

Two 2″ WOF strips of moda bella solids in a colour coordinating with the layer cake slice for the first frame

Two 5/8″ WOF strips of moda bella solids in a colour coordinating with the “mount” for the skinny strip frame

One FQ of fabric for the “mount” (cross hatch fabric in these pillows)

Three WOF strips of black moda bella solids for the binding

1/2 yd fabric for the backing

Batting / fusible fleece for the pillow front and for the pillow back if desired

1.   Decide whether you want to use a whole layer cake slice or whether you want to trim it due to the fall of the pattern on it.  I left the blue layer cake slice whole but trimmed the red and black ones into rectangles to accommodate the pattern on them.

2.   Cut two 2″ WOF strips of a fabric that coordinates with the layer cake slice.  If you have cut the layer cake slice significantly smaller than 10″ square, you will need to increase the width of these strips or use more of the “mount” fabric to reach the same sized pillow as I made (19 1/2″ square).  I used moda bella solids natural here.  Sash the layer cake slice.  Press towards the sashing strip.

3.   Cut two 5/8″ WOF slices of a moda bella solid that coordinates with the fabric you have chosen for the mount.  Moda recommends the following bella solids to coordinate with Summersville: christmas red, bettys orange, horizon blue, kelly green and black.  Sash the layer cake slice again.  You will end up with a visible strip of 1/8″ when this strip is fully pieced.  Press toward the skinny strip.

4.   Cut the FQ of the mount fabric (I used the Summersville cross hatch fabrics for this) into four strips of 4 1/2″ X 22″.  Sash the layer cake slice once again, press towards the mount fabrics and trim to the size required for your pillow (I trimmed to 19 1/2″ square).

5.   Baste a square of wadding to the back of the pillow top.  I used a fusible fleece {I ironed on and did not quilt the pillow top because I prefer to keep it simpler}.  You could do the same with wadding and basting spray or you could quilt the pillow top onto the batting.  I do not use a backing fabric to the fusible fleece but you may want to.

6.   To make the pillow backing, cut two pieces of backing fabric {I used a moda cross weave in natural} 19 1/2″ X 13″ and 19 1/2″ X 10″.  If you want a padded back, cut two pieces of wadding or fusible fleece and attach to the backing fabric by fusing or using basting spray or with some light quilting.  Again you may wish to add backing fabric to these sections but I do not.

7.   Cut one 1 1/2″ WOF strip of binding fabric {I used moda bella solid washed black} and bind one of the 19 1/2″ edges of each of the two pieces of backing fabric as you would bind a quilt but using one layer of fabric rather than a folded binding.

8.   Pin the pillow top to the backing right sides out with the bound edges of the backing crossing over each other with a 3-4″ overlap {backing overlap shown in picture below} with one of the bound edges underneath the other.  Sew the pillow front and back together with a long wide zig zag stitch along the edges.

9.   Cut two 1 1/2″ WOF strips of binding fabric.  I used moda bella solids washed black.  Join these together with a diagonal seam.  Bind the pillow as you would a quilt but using a single rather than a folded binding.  I choose a single binding as it is less bulky than a folded binding but you can use a folded binding if you prefer.

One 19 1/2″ X 19 1/2″ pillow.   I made a set of three: red, blue and black. 
Lynne Goldsworthy

Rough and Tumble Quilt

Hi, I’m Lynne from Lily’s Quilts and Fat Quarterly and I am going to show you how to make an improv quilt using Malka Dubrawsky’s wonderful A Stitch in Color line.  The great thing about making an improv quilt is that, although you are following a pattern, no two quilts will be the same and you can adapt and change your quilt as you go.  If you do make a Rough and Tumble quilt from this tutorial, I would love you to post a picture of it in my Flickr group.

One A Stitch in Color Layer Cake

Half yards of each of the bright A Stitch in Color semi solids (blue, green, red, orange, yellow)
and 2 yards of the grey A Stitch in Color semi solid.

Plus 5 yards for backing.

Making the strips of wonky LCSs

1.   Divide the layer cake into 5 piles of 8 slices, mixing up patterns and colours.  Put the two spare slices to one side.

2.   Place two layer cake slices (LCS) on the cutting mat, aligned with the lines on the mat overlapping by 3″ and both right sides up.

3.   Slice at a randomly chosen angle making sure that both ends of the cut remain within the 3″ overlap.

Retain any wedges cut off the LCSs wider than about 1″ to be used for little pops of colour in the framing and sashing.

4.   Flip one LCS on top of the other, aligning the cut lines so that the ends meet 1/4″ in from the edge.  Sew using a 1/4″ seam.  Press open or to one side.

5.   Take that section and place it back on the cutting mat, again aligned with the lines on the mat and place a third LCS on top, this time with an overlap of 2″.  Again make a random wonky cut within the area of the overlap.  Flip the new LCS and sew to the original section.  Press open or to one side, as desired.

6.   Continue adding LCSs to the wonky strip, sometimes using a 1″, 2″, 3″ overlap or occasionally sometimes a 4″ overlap to give a variety of angles.  Sometimes cut top left to bottom right and sometimes top right to bottom left, sometimes at a more severe angle and sometimes at a gentler angle or even absolutely vertical.  Sometimes leave a wider piece of LCS and sometimes leave a narrower piece.

TOP TIP: avoid alternating the slant of the angles each time. This will prevent your quilt from looking too much like a tumbler quilt.  I love tumbler quilts but that is not what we are aiming for here.

7.   Once pressed, the tops and bottoms of the LCSs should align in a straight line.  Don’t worry if this is not absolutely bang on as we will be trimming the top and bottom lines of this section before the next stage.

8.   The finished strip should end up something around 50-55″ give or take an inch or two.  If it ends up way longer than this, we can trim to size at step 12.  If it ends up way shorter, add one of the spare layer cake slices to the end but cut wider LCSs on the next one as you only have two spare.

9.   Make five of these strips.

Adding the colour frames

10.   Decide which of your five strips will be framed by each of the five semi solid colour frames.  Cut each semi solid into four 4 1/2″ WOF strips.

11.   Read to the end of this instruction before cutting 10″ strips.  Cut two 10″ strips from these WOF strips, one for each end of the LCS strips.  If you fancy inserting a pop of colour into one or both of these strips, follow the method at step 20, making sure to cut the strip of coloured fabric 11″-12″ rather than 10″ to compensate for length lost in the seams and to give a bit of waggle room.  Once the pop of colour has been inserted, trim to 10″.

12.   If your LCS strips are much longer than 55″, trim them down to about 50″-55″.  Align each of the 10″ frame end pieces with the ends of the LCS strips, overlapping by 2″ and make a random wonky cut so that they are attached to the original LCS strips in the same way as each LCS was (see the yellow ends on the strip below).  Sew the 10″ pieces onto the ends of the LCS strips.  Press seams open or to one side, as desired.

13.   Now give the strip a wonky trim.  Firstly fold the strip in four and cut a straight line along one edge to tidy up that edge if the LCS edges are not all perfectly aligned.

14.   Then lay the strip down on a big table or on the floor and take a retractable metal tape measure to give you a straight line.  Lay it along the edge of the top and bottom of the strip (right side down)  at a slightly wonky angle.  Mark several pencil marks along the line.

15.   Bring up to the cutting mat and cut along the marked line, from pencil mark to pencil mark to end up with a long wonky strip.  Retain any parts of the off-cut strip wider than 1″ for pops of colour and the scrappy binding.

16.   Sew the remaining three semi solid WOF strips together into one long strip.  Use this strip to sash the top then the bottom of the LCS strip.  If you wish to insert a pop of colour anywhere within any of these strips, follow the method at step 20.  Again, press seams open or to one side, as desired.

17.   Now give the framed strip a wonky trim.  You are aiming to trim it to something around 55″- 60″ X 12″-14″ or thereabouts but each side will be wonky.  Firstly cut the ends off at a slight angle each, making sure to leave at least 1/2″ width away from the seam at the narrowest cut.

18.   Then lay the strips down on a big table or on the floor and take a retractable metal tape measure to give you a straight line.  Lay it along the edge of the top and bottom of the framed section at a slightly wonky angle, making sure to leave at least 1/2″ width at the narrowest cut.  Mark several pencil marks along the line.

19.   Bring up to the cutting mat and cut along the marked line, from pencil mark to pencil mark to end up with a long wonky strip.  Retain any off cuts wider than 2″ to go into the scrappy binding.

Adding pops of colour

20.   If you want to add pops of colour into the semi-solid at any point, take an off cut scrap of fabric from the LCSs.  In the picture below, I’ve taken a piece from trimming the long LCS strips to it has two LCS fabrics in it.  Lay it over the sashing strip where you want it to be inserted with both fabrics right sides up.

Cut the sashing strip along both sides of the scrap of fabric.

21.   Sew the scrap of fabric to one piece of the sashing, press and trim.

Then attach the other piece of sashing and press.

Framing in grey

22.   Cut the two yards of grey semi solid into sixteen 4 1/2″ WOF strips.

23.   Layout the five colour framed strips and decide on a layout.

24.   Sew pieces of grey to the end of each strip.  Add in pops of color if desired. Trim along the sides but not the ends at this stage.  If any of these five sections are significantly shorter than the others, add some more grey or even a pop of color and then some more grey to bring them to the same length(ish).

25.   Join the remaining WOF strips end to end to make one long piece of sashing.   Insert pops of colour into this as and when desired.

26.   Sash the top and the bottom of the 1st, 3rd and 5th brick strip in your quilt layout, leaving the 2nd and 4th unsashed.  Do not yet trim the ends or the side of these strips.

27.   Once again lay all five strips out on the floor or a large table, butting each one right up to the next one.  Measure the length of the quilt on the left, middle and right of the floor layout.  If these three measurements are significantly different, try flipping one or two strips to bring them as close together as possible.  If necessary, make a wonky trim along the length of one of the strips to bring the top and bottom of the quilt as close to parallel as possible.

28.   Sew the five strips together and press.

29.   Measure the length of the finished quilt at three points along its width and make a final wonky trim if needed to bring those two edges parallel.

30.   To trim the sides, fold the quilt into quarters and make a final trim parallel to the folded edges cutting off all the uneven ends to give a straight finish on both sides.  Here is a bad indoor photo of my quilt top just having been all squared up.

31.    Back, baste and quilt as desired.

32.   To make the scrappy binding, take all scraps of the semi solid offcuts more than 2″ wide (or 2 1/2″ wide if you prefer a slightly wider binding) and sew them into one long binding.  Add in pops of colour if desired.

One Rough and Tumble quilt which will end up somewhere around 70″ X 90″.
The bright colours in these fabrics appeal very much to my 10 year old twin daughters who are currently “debating” who will get to keep this quilt.  A second quilt is being made in the same line to avoid a major family fall-out!
Lynne Goldsworthy

Fa La La Christmas Bunting

Hi I am Lynne, a UK quilter who blogs at Lily’s Quilts.  In this tutorial, I am going to show you how to make a quick, easy and fun Christmas bunting.  If you do make bunting, Christmas or otherwise, from this tutorial, I would love you to come and show me the pics in my Lily’s Quilts Flickr group.

One charm pack and 1 1/2″ yds fabric for backing and binding.  If you made the Union Jack Shabby Chic Wall Hanging, you will have charms left over to make this bunting.  If however, you did not, you will need to cut two extra 5″ squares from your binding and backing fabric to make the 44 squares needed.  You will cut these at step 2 of the instructions.

1. Sew together 30 background charms into pairs and then sew those pairs of charms into one long strip.

2.   Take a strip of wadding roughly 12″ deep and 75″ long.  If you need to join two pieces end to end – butt up the two edges and run a wide zig zag across the seam.  Make a strip of backing roughly 12″ deep and 75″ long – you can do this by joining two 13″ WOF strips of backing fabric and trimming to size.  You can cut your extra two 5″ squares from the ends of this strip of fabric.

3.   Baste as preferred to make one long skinny quilt sandwich.  Take a small bite.  Ooh silly me, this is a fabric recipe not a food recipe.  Do not take a bite.

4.  Mark zig zag lines along the quilt sandwich as shown in this picture.  I am using washable felt tip pens – these lines will disappear into the bunting binding so go wild and pick the clashiest colour you can find.  Go on. Live a little.  I chose green.  The safe choice for Christmas bunting.  I’m British.  We don’t do wild so much.

5.   Sew a long stitch basting line (on the machine) 1/8″ of an inch from the top and the border of each triangle to hold the three layers together until binding.

6.  Print out or draw out the letters HAPY CRISTM or the letters you need for whatever else you want your bunting to say.  I opened a Word document, chose the font Adamsky Outline SF, enlarged the letters to 400 and printed the sheets out.  For a more informal look, mix up upper case and lower case letters or perhaps choose letters from different fonts.  Hold your printed letters up against the triangles to check that they are big enough but do not come too close to the edge of the triangles or the edges will get lost in the binding.

7.  Trace the letters IN REVERSE onto a fusible webbing.  Hold up to the window or place on a lightbox if you cannot see the letters clearly enough.  For those of you with advanced spelling abilities, you may calculate which letters you need to trace more than once.  For the rest of us, you need to trace A, P, H and S twice.  (Can you see I ran out of space and had to cut one of my “S”s in half?!

8.   Cut out the letters roughly and fuse to the back of 14 green charm squares.  Cut along the lines.

9.   Fuse the letters to the bunting fabric, aligning them within the triangle shapes made on the fabric with your zig zag markings.  The bottom of the letter should be toward the pointy part of the triangle.  For a more informal look, place the letters at slight angles rather than dead straight.  I like dead straight for Christmas.  Perhaps for a children’s party bunting, I’d like a bit of wonk though.

10.  Sew around the letters in the stitch of your choice.  I have used a straight stitch about 1/8″ inside the shape of the letters.  If you do not have sufficient contrast between your letters and background fabric, you might wish to sew this line in a thick satin stitch to provide a clear edge to the letters.

11.  Cut along the zig zag lines to makes lots of triangles like this one.

12.  Cut 7 1″ WOF strips of binding fabric.  Cut each strip in half so that each is 22″ long or thereabouts.  Bind the two points side of the triangle.  First sew the binding strips to the first edge of the front of the triangles stopping 1/4″ short of the point and doing a few reverse stitches for strength.

13.   Fold the binding strip up aligning it with the edge of the triangle as shown in the picture and then back down again.

14.  Sew along the second side of the triangle once again attaching the fabric with a 1/4″ seam.

15.   Fold the bunting to the back and pin from the wrong side of the bunting and then sew down.  Since my bunting hangs against a wall, I cheat here and do not fold the binding under and hand stitch as I normally would with a quilt but machine sew it down from the right side.  OK the back isn’t the prettiest thing you’ve ever seen but I won’t be seeing it when it’s hung up on the wall.  If your bunting will be hanging so that you can see the back or if it is a gift or being made for sale, you may prefer to fold the bunting under and hand stitch it down as with a regular quilting binding.

16.   Trim the hanging ends of binding from the tops of the triangles.

17.   Now cut four 1 1/2″ WOF strips of the fabric you have chosen to go along the top of the bunting which I will call the hanging ribbon.  Sew into a long strip using diagonal joins as you would do if you were making a quilt binding.

18.   Press in half along the length and then fold in the sides and press again to make one long double-folded strip.

19.   Pin the bunting triangles into hanging ribbon starting about 15″ along from the end of the ribbon and leaving roughly 1″ spaces between the triangles.  Sew along the top side of the hanging ribbon as close to the edge as you dare, aiming to go through both layers of hanging ribbon as well as through the triangles

VOILA – one Fa La La charm pack Christmas bunting.  Take it outside in the summer sunshine, hang from some gates, take a photo and pack it away into the Christmas decorations box for a few months.

Then, in December, go into the attic, get down the Christmas decorations box, pull out your Christmas bunting, don your gay apparel and deck the halls with boughs of holly.

One Fa La La La La Christmas bunting decoration.

Lynne Goldsworthy
{Lily’s Quilts}

Shabby Chic Union Jack Wall Hanging

Hi! I am Lynne from Lily’s Quilts.  As you might guess from this tutorial and from the abundance of union jacks on my blog and in my Flickr photostream, I am from the UK.  In this tutorial, I will show you how to make a shabby chic union jack wall hanging from charm squares from the French General Fa La La line.  Although this is a Christmas line, the use of the brown, red and cream charms from this line means you will be able to leave the wall hanging up all year round.

In this tutorial, I am first making shabby chic fabric from charm squares in three different colours – red for the main stripes, brown for the background triangles and cream for the skinny stripes.  You could use other charm packs, grouping the colours into three groups or perhaps into warm colours, cool colours and neutrals. You could also make this wall hanging with a layer cake cut into charm squares using a pinking rotary blade cutter.  I used 8 charm packs for this wall hanging because I wanted to stick with the brown, red and cream colours for the flag and will use the leftover charm squares for another project which I will be showing you later on in the year.

8 Fa La La charm packs (or two layer cakes cut into charm squares using a pinking rotary cutter blade).  2 1/2 yds backing fabric (the offcuts from making the backing can be used to bind the wall hanging).

1.   Open up two charm packs and sort into colours: brown, red and cream with brown/beige patterns for this project and green and cream with green and red patterns for another project I will be bringing to you later on in the year.


2.   Cut four pieces of newspaper 13″ X 20″ which you will use as the foundation for making the shabby chic fabric.

3.  Start by taking 16 brown charm squares and laying them on the newspaper in a random order until all the paper is covered.  If necessary, cut one or two charm squares in half to cover the small gaps, making sure that only the pinked edges are showing.  Make sure the overlap of one charm square to the next is at least 1/4″ and ideally closer to 1/2″.  The brown squares need only reach the edges of the newspaper – they do not need to overhang them for a seam allowance – that is calculated into the size of the newspaper.

4.  Pin all squares in place. Shorten your stitch length to somewhere between 1.5 and 2 to ensure that the sewn edges hold when cut and to help making perforations in the newspaper for tearing away later.  Sew about 1/8″ from the edge of each pinked edge.

5. Press and then trim fabric to the edges of the newspaper then tear off all the newspaper.

6. Repeat for the remaining three brown rectangles.

7. IMPORTANT: read instructions carefully before cutting.  You need to ensure that you do not cut four identical triangles.  Cut two of the brown rectangles into two triangles cutting along the diagonal from top left to bottom right and two from top right to bottom left.


8.   Cut one piece of newspaper 32″ X 16″ and another piece of newspaper 28″ X 20″.  Cover these pieces of newspaper with red charm squares.  Pin, sew, remove the newspaper, press and trim as you did with the brown rectangles.

9.  Cut the 32″ X 16″ piece of shabby chic fabric into four 32″ X 4″ strips to make the slimmer diagonal red stripes.

10.   Cut the 28″ X 20″ into four 28″ X 5″ strips to make the wider vertical and horizontal red stripes.


11.   Cut a piece of newspaper 30″ X 24″.  Cover it with cream charm squares in the same way as with the brown and red charm squares.  Pin, sew, remove newspaper, press and trim.  Cut the 30″ X 24″ fabric into four 30″ X 1″ strips and ten 30″ X 2″ strips.


12.   Put the brown triangles into pairs and note on each one whether a wider 2″ cream strip will be sewn to it or a thinner 1″ cream strip as per the picture of the finished flag.  Sew 1″ and 2″ cream strips along the diagonal edge of each brown triangle.  Press seams open and trim following the lines of the triangle.

13.   Sew a 4″ red stripe along each 1″ cream strip, taking care to ensure that spare fabric hangs off at each end.  Press seams open and trim following the lines of the triangle.

14.   Cut a piece of newspaper 27″ X 15″ and lay a matching pair of brown triangles on it.
15.   With two pins or a fabric pen or pencil, mark any point on the red stripe and the cream strip where these two meet, flip and pin the two together at this point.
16.   Pin the rest of the seam and sew then press seams open and trim.

17.   Repeat for the remaining three pairs of brown triangles.
18.   Keeping track of where each of the corner sections will go, sew 1″ cream strips to the bottom of the top corner sections and the top of the bottom corner sections, press seams open and trim.    Then sew 1″ cream strips to the right of the left corner sections and to the left of the right corner sections, press seams open and trim.
19.   Sew wide red 5″ strips to the top of the bottom two corner sections, press seams open and trim.
20.   Sew those sections to the top two corner sections, press seams open and trim.
21.  Join the two remaining red 28″ X 5″ strips end to end by overlapping one pinked edge over the end of the other and sew along the pinked edge in the same way as when making the shabby chic fabric.
22. Sew the long red strip to the right side of the left flag section.
23.   Now take care over this step – if you align this perfectly, the finished wall hanging will look so much better than if you slightly miss.  Line a ruler against the edges of the cream strips and mark the point where they would reach on the edge of the wide red strips.  Pin and sew just the middle section of this seam to start with.  Flip and make sure you have the flag lined up perfectly before sewing the whole seam.  Voila, you have your finished quilt top.  Quilt as desired, bind and hang up.  If you make one of these wall hangings, please come and share your pictures of it in my Flickr group

One 36″ X 60″ Shabby Chic Union Jack Wall Hanging.  
Lynne Goldsworthy

Hexagon Park

MBS pic

Hi, I’m Lynne, from Lily’s Quilts.  I’m a UK quilter and leapt at the chance to design a quilt using the eagerly awaited new line from UK fabric designer, Aneela Hoey, Sherbet Pips.  Want to make this quilt right now?  Head on over to my blog this week for a chance to win a Sherbet Pips layer cake!

For the quilt top:
One Sherbet Pips layer cake
Two and a half yards of Moda Bella Solids white


For the binding and backing:
1/2 yard of fabric for the binding
5 yards of fabric for the backing

Choose 30 layer cake squares for the hexagons and save the remaining squares for the small square border.  To make each hexagon, take one layer cake square, fold and iron it in half horizontally and cut a half inch strip off along the folded line, yielding two rectangles 4 1/2″ by 10″.  For clarity, the strip you are cutting off is an inch wide when unfolded.


Keeping those two rectangles of fabric together as they are, position them on your cutting board so that first the bottom right and then the bottom left corner line up with the 60 degree line marked on the cutting board and cut off triangles on each side as shown in this picture:


You will end up with two half hexagons and four small triangles looking like this.  Keep the triangles; you will use some of them in the quilt.


For the sashing between the hexagons, cut 12 WOF (width of fabric) strips 2″ wide.  Cut these strips into 7 1/4″ lengths.  Also cut 8 WOF strips 1 1/4″ wide and cut these into 5 1/4″ lengths.  Sew one of the shorter, narrower strips onto the top and bottom of each of the half hexagons, press the seams away from the white strips and trim following the lines of the half hexagon edges.


Separate all your half hexagons into two piles – the tops and the bottoms. Add 7 1/4″ sashing strips to the sides of each of the tops, lining up the sashing with the top of the block so that there is some overhang at the bottom.


Press seams away from the white sashing and trim, following the lines of the half hexagons sides.


Arrange the hexagons into a pleasing layout (refer to the picture of the whole quilt to help if needed).  Take the pile of little triangles cut off when you cut the hexagons and choose some pairs of these to add down the sides of the quilt layout.  Take each of the bottom half hexagons on the left hand and right hand side of the layout and add a 7 1/4″ sashing strip along the side that will be attached to a small triangle.


Sew the small triangles to the half hexagon next to them, lining them up with the white sashing:


Sew each row together, pressing seams away from the white sashing.  My top row looked like this:

row 1 of 12!

Sew all 12 rows together, pressing seams open and trimming along the edges of the small triangles, removing the little points of sashing.

Sashing and small square border:
Cut 12 WOF strips 2 1/2″ wide from the white fabric and add a white border to the quilt top.

Cut 5 WOF strips 2 5/8″ wide and cut into 5″ lengths.  Cut (36) 5″ squares from the remaining layer cake. Add the 5″ square border alternating 5″ squares with the white 5″ sashing strips.  Add one more 2 1/2″ white border.  You now have your completed quilt top.

Hexagon Park

Cut the backing fabric in half lengthwise, remove selvages and sew the two pieces together along the long sides to create the quilt backing.  Sandwich, quilt, bind, wash, dry and enjoy.

One sashed hexagon quilt 80″ by 70″.  Mine will be used for snuggling under on the sofa.  I made it for me but I suspect my twin daughters may make it their own before too long.  If you make this quilt, I’d love you to let me know via my blog, Lily’s Quilts.

Thank you!

Lynne Goldsworthy
{Lily’s Quilts}