Reversible Child’s Apron


Do you know a small child who likes to help in the kitchen?  My four girls certainly love to.  How about making them an apron?  
This apron is fully reversible with a large pocket on both sides.   
It has ties at the neck and waist making it fully adjustable and fits children ages 4-8.
But do you know what the best part is?  It only takes 3 fat quarters to make! 
Come on, let me show you how!
 
I used prints from Ruby by Bonnie and Camille.

 Three Fat Quarters:

-One for the front of the apron
-One for the back of the apron
-One for the ties and pockets
 
Cutting:
Trim the fat quarters for the front and back to 18 x 21 inches.  If you have to cut them a bit smaller to square the fabric up it isn’t a problem at all, just make sure they are the same size.  I like to lay the front and back apron fabric on top of each other as I cut to make sure they are the same size.

Cut a piece of paper 4.5 x6.5 inches in size.  Use a bowl to draw a soft curve in one corner.  Cut off the corner following the line.  This is your pattern piece for the apron.

 Place the pattern piece in the upper left hand corner of the fabric.  Pin.  (You can pin and cut through the front and back apron fabric at the same time if you wish.)

 Cut along the pattern.

 Repeat on the other side of the apron.  This is the main body of the apron.

With some careful cutting all of the pockets and ties can be cut out of one fat quarter:
First:  cut two 2.5 x 18 inch strips for the waist ties
Second:  cut two 2.5 x 14 inch strips for the neck ties
Third:  cut two 7 x 12 inch rectangles for the pockets


Sewing:

Fold each of the 2.5 inch wide tie pieces in half length wise.  Press and pin if desired.

Sew along one short end and the long side of the tie with a 1/4 inch seam.  Remember to back stitch at the beginning and end of the stitching.

Trim off the corners of each tie.

Turn the tie right side out.  I used the handle of a spoon to poke the sewn end of the tie back into the casing.

Continue to push the end up into the casing and pull the casing along the spoon handle until you see the end of the tie poking out.  Grab the end of the tie and pull it out.

Iron the tie flat and use a pin to pull the corners of the tie out if necessary.

Repeat for all of the waist and neck ties.

Next, take the 7×12 pocket pieces and zig zag along each edge.

Trim about a 1/4 inch off of the bottom corners.

Turn over the bottom and side edges a quarter of an inch and press.

Turn under the top edge 1/4 of an inch and press.  Turn the top over another inch and press again.

Fold the pocket piece in half and press down the middle until you have a nice sharp crease.

Top stitch along the edge of the top fold.  Repeat this process for both pocket pieces.

Lay the top hemmed rectangular pocket in the middle of the bottom section of the apron and pin.

Starting at the hemmed edge, stitch along the outside edge of the pocket about 1/8the of an inch from the edge.  Stop with the needle down 1/8th of and inch from the corner, lift the presser foot and turn the fabric 90 degrees.  Continue stitching along the other edges.  Do Not Stitch along the top hemmed edge.

When the outer edge stitching is completed, find the pressed line in the middle of the pocket.  Starting at the top, stitch along the line, back stitching at the top and bottom of the pocket.  Repeat for the other side of the apron.

Next pin the shorter neck ties to the top of one apron piece.

Pin them just slightly farther than 1/4 of an inch from the sides.  Use at least 2 pins so that the ties do not sift during sewing.

Pin the longer waist ties slightly more than 1/4 inch below the curved corner of the apron.

Secure the ties with multiple pins to the center of the apron so that they don’t flop around and get caught in the side seams by accident.  I speak from experience.  😉

Yea!  It’s looking like an apron now!  You should have two apron pieces, each one with a pocket and one with the ties pinned in place.

Place the two apron pieces right sides together and pin all the way around.

Starting at the bottom, stitch along the edge of the apron using a 1/4 inch seam allowance (the edge of the presser foot).

Back stitch over the ties to give the seam extra strength.  Be careful turning the corners not to stitch along the sides of the ties.

Stop and back stitch about 6 inches short of the start of the seam.

Make small clips along the curved edge.  This will help the fabric lay flat when the apron is turned right side out.

Turn the apron right side out and iron the edges.  Pin the opening shut.

Top stitch about 1/8 of an inch from the edge of the apron.  This gives the apron a nice flat finish and closes the hole at the bottom.

I like to tie the neck ties in a double knot with just enough room that they can pull it on and off by themselves.

One super cute reversible apron for your favorite child!

I think this apron would be brilliant with a boyish fabric on one side and a girly fabric on the other.
 Happy sewing and cooking!

Leila Gardunia
{sewnbyleila.blogspot.com}

SLICED Tutorial: Quilt Story Apron





Hello!! I’m back sharing another tutorial from a project I made for the Moda Sliced Competition!  You can also check out my Pea Pod Pincushion tutorial from the competition.  I hope you enjoy making this sweet apron.  Make sure to come and say hi at Quilt Story too! 🙂



2-3 fat quarters for bodice and pockets
Six 1/4 yard cuts for skirt and ruffles
1/4 for scallops
1/4 yard for neck straps
Fat quarter for center waistband
1/3 yard for waistband ties

Pattern Pieces {included in the Printer Friendly Version}:
Main Bodice
Side Bodice
Top Band
Scallop & Pocket


Four 1 yard cuts of ric rac, lace, pom poms, etc.
1 yard medium weight interfacing for bodice and pockets
Tape measure for flower pin
1 yard thin ribbon


*** Use half inch seams for construction of this apron unless otherwise noted.
***The bodice for this pattern is a women’s size 5.

Part 1: Bodice Construction


Use a medium-weight interfacing and sew bodice sides to main bodice piece, then add the top band. Main bodice pattern, side bodice pattern, and top band pattern are included in the Printer Friendly Version.  Repeat and create an identical lining piece, no interfacing needed.

Add iPod pocket to inside of lining.  Cut two pieces, 5″ x 6″ and interface one piece.  Sew right sides together along each side and top, leave the bottom open.  Turn right side out and press.  When pressing, turn in the edges of the unfinished bottom by 1/4″ and press.  Add a trim along the finished top if you’d like.  Pin the pocket in place and sew around sides and bottom.  Reinforce the tops of each side.
Next, top stitch a ribbon across the seam of top band and bodice. Create a bow and tack into the middle of  ribbon bodice.
Create neck straps by cutting 2 strips of fabric, 4″ x 38″. Fold in half lengthwise and sew down entire strip with an angle at the end. Turn right side out and press.
Next is the bodice ruffle trim. Fold in  half lengthwise RST (right sides together) a piece of fabric measuring 2.5″ x 20″. Sew short edges together. Turn right side out and press. Run a narrow gathering stitch along raw edge. Gather to a ruffle to match the top of the bodice. Add the ruffle with a narrow top stitch to front apron bodice piece, along the top band piece. *Minding the half inch edges on each side of bodice. 
Put bodice and lining RST and pin neck straps in between and to the sides of bodice.  However you will leave a little more than a half inch on edges so they don’t get sewn into the seam.  Stitch together sides and top, turn inside out and press. 
Bodice complete.
Part 2: Skirt Construction
Cut 5 strips for the skirt.  From top to bottom my measurements are 5.5″, 6″, 4.5″, 5.5″ and 3.5″ inches long, all by 25″ inches wide.  Sew together in that order.
Using the trims, and coordinating threads, sew trims cross all the seams (as pictured).  Serge or turn side edges in 1/4″ and 1/4″ again and stitch to finish sides of apron. 
Make a wide gathering stitch across top of apron as shown.
Create your bottom ruffle by cutting a piece of fabric 2″ x 40″, turn bottom edge 1/4″ in, and 1/4″ in again press and stitch. Do this to the two sides as well.  Make a wide gathering stitch 1/4″ from raw edge. Gather evenly to match apron width. Set aside.
Cut scallop fabric in half widthwise, to have two pieces 4.5″ x WOF.  Using the scallop pattern {in the Printer Friendly Version}, trace onto the wrong side of your fabric and create four full scallops.  Take the wrong sides of the scallop fabrics and pin together.  Sew along tracing and trim 1/4″ around.  Turn right side out and press.
Take your ruffle and scallop and with RST pin to the apron along the bottom edge. Serge or stitch 1/4″. Open and press. Do a very narrow top stitch on the bottom apron edge.
Create your pocket using pattern piece {found in the Printer Friendly Version}. Embellish as you would like with trim, different fabrics, embroidery etc. Using same pattern piece create a lining piece out of white or coordinating fabric.  Interface one side of the pocket.  Using 1/4″ seams, stitch around the sides and rounded bottom of pocket, leaving the top open. Turn right side out and press. Turn top edges in about a 1/4″, press really nicely and top stitch closed.  Pin pocket in place on apron and use a narrow top stitch to stitch in place. Be sure to reinforce each side at the top.
Gather top of skirt to match finished apron top. With RST pin and sew or serge together.
Part 3: Finishing
Using the fat quarter piece for the center waistband cut a piece 7″ x 13″.  RST sew together lengthwise.  Press with the seam in the center.  Also press the short ends 1/4″ in for a finished look, but do not stitch yet.  Set aside.  Cut two waistband ties 6″ x 34″.  RST sew together lengthwise and on one end of each finish at an angle.  Turn right side out and press. 
Place the waistband ties into the unfinished edges of the center waistband piece.  Center the waistband piece over top of the bodice and skirt seam.  Pin in place and sew a narrow top stitch around the entire center waistband, closing the sides as you go. 
Part 4: Tape Measure Flower Pin, optional
Clip metal ends of measuring tape off. Using hot glue, create a circle center roughly the size of a finger. Create petals by softly folding measuring tape and gluing to center. Alternate sides of flower while rolling and rotating softly.  Start with smaller folds and get larger as you get to the end of the flower.  Try first without glue to get a feel for the process.
Once you’ve finished the tape measure flower you can add some fabric petals or leaves.  Fold a 2″ piece of fabric in half and in half again. Trim raw edge sides into a curve. Add hot glue and place little fabric petals within the measuring tape flower.  Create larger petals using the same method and 3″ pieces of fabric. Put 3-4 of these at the base of the measuring tape flower.  Hot glue a pin clasp thing (that’s what they are called right) 🙂  to the back of the flower, and pin where you would like.

One darling apron!

Thank you so much for all of you who left comments during the competition, it was so much fun and we had a blast!  Thanks to Moda too!! 🙂  I’ll be posting a tutorial for my portable file folders soon!
Be sure to visit our blog, Quilt Story.  We’d love to have you!
Quilt Story

Ruffled Shower Curtain

MBS-Ruffled-Shower-Curtain1

Hi there! I have a fun recipe for you today. What’s better than beautiful, frilly ruffles? Not much! If you’re on a ruffle kick, this project is for you 🙂 It’s super simple. I hope you enjoy it!

2 Bliss Jelly Rolls
1 Bella Solid Jelly Roll, red
1 inexpensive, plain shower curtain (72″ length x 70″ width)

2 yd jumbo ricrac

1. Let’s take a look at your shower curtain. It should measure approximately 72″ long and 70″ wide. Lay your curtain out flat, right side up.

MBS Post

2. Draw a horizontal line right below the grommets with a pencil or marking pen. Continue to draw horizontal lines every 2″ along the length of the curtain. A yardstick will come in very handy for this! You should end up with approximately 35 lines, depending on the style of your curtain.

MBS Post

3. The number of horizontal lines you drew in Step 2 (mine was 35) is the total number of ruffle strips needed. Each ruffle requires 3 jelly roll strips. I sorted my Bliss jelly rolls by color and made a pile of my Bella Solid red jelly roll strips.

4. Grab 3 strips from the same color pile, trim selvages, and sew the short ends right side together to create a long strip. Press seams.

5. Using your favorite gathering method, gather each strip from Step 4 to measure the width of your shower curtain (70″).

MBS Ruffled Shower Curtain

MBS Ruffled Shower Curtain

MBS Ruffled Shower Curtain

MBS Ruffled Shower Curtain

6. Repeat Steps 4-5 until you have the necessary number of ruffle strips, as determined in Step 2.

I made 10 long ruffle strips (3 jelly rolls each) with the red Bella Solid and 25 long ruffle strips with Bliss.

7. Now comes the fun part! Layout the ruffle strips to determine which order to sew them in.

8. Starting from the bottom of the curtain, line up the top edge of the ruffle strip with the horizontal line. Sew the ruffle strip in place, using a 1/4″ seam allowance.

MBS Ruffled Shower Curtain

9. Repeat the same process for each horizontal line, moving upward.

10.  The top horizontal ruffle will have an unsightly raw edge, so let’s fix that! Sew your coordinating jumbo ricrac right over the raw edge.

MBS Ruffled Shower Curtain

MBS Ruffled Shower Curtain

11. Hang your sassy, ruffled shower curtain and voila!

1 Ruffled Shower Curtain.

new

Jenny Garland
{jennygarland.com}

Just Growing Quilt

Hi Moda Bake Shop fans! It is LeAnne from over at Everyday Celebrations. I am excited to bring you this new project and hope you love it as much as I do.

If a one year-old could answer the question, ‘What have you been up too the last year?’ they’d probably answer, “Oh, just growing!’ This little quilt celebrates the first year of life for any little one, or should I say former little one, 😦 and what they’ve been up to…GROWING! This quilt is a simple twist on the classic patchwork quilt. Besides charm squares, this quilt features wide strips of fabric and darling flowers that are growing and blooming. You can also add an initial to this quilt for personalization.

2 Bliss charm packs
1/2 yard fabric – for horizontal strips
1/2 yard fabric – binding
1 3/4 yard fabric – backing
1/3 yard neutral fabric
4 – 5 fat quarters
1 yard iron-on adhesive such as Heat n’ Bond Lite
batting

  • Seam allowances are 1/4″ of an inch.
  • RST = right sides together
  • WOF = width of fabric
  • I used a machine blanket stitch to finish off my flower appliques. Applique templates are found in the printable version of this recipe.
  • You will need to print off your own initial if you wish to personalize your quilt. To do this, just type your desired letter in a blank document in Microsoft Word or other program. You want your letter to measure no more than 4 1/2″ tall. (There are rulers on the side of the document in Microsoft Word.) Then, print off the letter. Make sure you select the ‘mirror’ or ‘flipped’ option when you print so the letter is BACKWARDS. If you don’t know how to do this, just tape the letter to a sunny window, with the back of the paper facing you, then trace the letter onto iron-on adhesive.

1. Select 60 charm squares for your quilt. I wanted the color scheme of my quilt to be just red, aqua, and pink. So I just left out the green and brown colors. (However, I did use the green charm squares for the leaves on the flower appliques.)

2. Cut twelve 5″ squares from the 1/3 yard of neutral fabric.  

3. Cut two 6 1/2″ x 37″ strips.

 4. Layout your squares in 9 rows with 8 squares in each row. Place the neutral blocks as pictured below:
Rows 1, 5, and 9 only have charm squares. (The neutral colored blocks are included in the charm pack; it is a white on white polka dot.) 
Rows 2, 4, 6, and 8 have neutral blocks in the third and sixth positions.
Rows 3 and 7 have neutral blocks in the second and seventh positions.

5. After deciding placement, sew your blocks for each row RST. Press seams open or to the side, whatever you fancy. Repeat for all the rows.

6. Next, pin the rows together, matching up the seams of the blocks. I like to pin where the seamlines intersect. Sew the rows together. After sewing each row, press seams open. REMEMBER: After rows 2 and 7 sew a 6 1/2″ strip.

 

7. Decide how many flowers you will want on your quilt, I did four. The flowers will go on any neutral block in the quilt. The larger flower template will be the one you want to put an initial on if you desire.

I like to use Heat n’ Bond Lite for appliqueing on quilts. To use this method, trace the templates on to the paper-side of the Heat n’ Bond. Then just roughly cut out around each shape. Adhere to the appropriate fat quarter following the directions on the package. Then cut out around each shape using the tracing lines.

Appliqueing 101 Tip: When I applique on quilts, I like to cut out the middle of any LARGER shapes to help keep the quilt soft and cuddly. (Yes, I have forgotten many times, but for the most part I remember.)

8.  After you have cut out all the shapes for the flowers, remove paper backing and place on desired neutral block. Play around with placement. YOU WILL NOT BE ADHERING YET!!!!

9. After you are happy with the placement, remove all but the leaves. Fuse the leaves following the directions on the package. (Note: To help things go faster, I fuse all the leaves for all the flowers in place at this time, then I blanket stitch all at the same time. Then I fuse all the petals for all flowers in place, etc.)

10. Blanket stitch around each leaf. I did not do the base of the leaf because it will be covered by the rest of the flower.

11. Next, place the petals in place. Fuse and blanket stitch to finish. Again, I did not blanket stitch on the base of the petals since it will be covered by the center.

12. Next add the center, fuse, and blanket stitch to finish.

12. Lastly, add the initial if you desire. Fuse and blanket stitch to finish.

13. Next, make your quilt sandwich, quilt as desired, and bind. (I cut five 2.5″ x WOF for my binding strips.)

One darling 37″ x 53″ quilt for your growing baby or toddler

LeAnne Ballard
{everydaycelebrate.blogspot.com}

Blissful Confection


I’m feeling a little scrappy, how about you? I love using layer cakes to achieve a quick lap size quilt without the fuss of collecting a bunch of different fabrics. One layer cake, a couple borders, and voila! All the look I love of a scrappy quilt, with just a portion of the work. This will look great with any fabric line, but will especially shine with lines that have larger prints, like Bliss. Remember to be scrappy, have fun with it, and enjoy!

1 Bliss layer cake
1/2 yard: 1st border
1-1/4 yards: 2nd border
4 yards: backing
2/3 yard: binding          

Begin by separating the squares into 4 piles, one for each of the cutting instructions that follow. Make sure you have a nice mix of each color in each of the piles.

Cut 8 cakes into 8″ squares.

Trim 14 cakes into 9 pieces each (3″ squares).

Trim 10 cakes into a 5-1/2″ strip and a 3″ strip. Cut each of these strips into a 5-1/2″ segment and a 3″ segment.

Cut the last 10 cakes into a 3″ strip and a 5-1/2″ strip. Cut the 3″ strip into 3 squares 3″ x 3″. Cut the 5-1/2″ strip into a 5-1/2″ square and a 3″ segment.

Cut the first border fabric into 6 strips 2-1/2″ wide.

Cut the large border fabric into 7 strips 5-1/2″ wide.

Separate all of the cut pieces into piles for each size. Feel free to mix the colors within each pile (or you can do my favorite thing – shake up each pile in a paper bag – one for each size)

* You do not need to do anything with the 8″ squares. Set these aside for now until you layout the quilt top.

For block 2, randomly select three 3″ squares. Sew these together in a chain. Make 42 chained units.

Sew 3 chained units together, creating a block. Make 14.

For block 3, sew a 3″ x 5-1/2″ segment onto a 5-1/2″ square. Remember it’s random! Make 10 of these block halves.

Stitch a 3″ square on the end of a 3″ x 5-1/2″ segment. Make 10.

Pair the two block halves together matching seams. You should now have 10 of these blocks.

Block 4 will begin by sewing a 3″ x 5-1/2″ segment onto a 5-1/2″ square. Make 10 of these groupings.

Once again, randomly pick three 3″ squares and piece them together in a chain. Make 10 chains.

Sew the two units together to create the last 10 blocks.

Layout the top, twisting and turning the blocks as you go.

Add the borders. Then quilt, bind, and enjoy!

One nice lap sized quilt finishing 59″ x 67″. I hope you enjoyed this tutorial. For more ideas like this one, stop on over at my blog {rubybluequilts.blogspot.com}. I’d love to see what you’re working on and to show you what else I have been up to. Also, I’m having a little giveaway at the moment so stop by and enter to win!

Rebecca Silbaugh
Ruby Blue Quilting Studio

Charming Hearts Quilt


Hi all! : ) This is Jera from http://www.quiltingintherain.com/ and I’m excited to be posting my 2nd MBS tutorial! I just LOVE the simplicity of this quilt.

The main heart blocks are made up of 4 charm squares. Easy peasy! For the other blocks, I cut out hearts from leftover charm squares and appliquéd them onto a solid white layer cake. To appliqué, I simply used fusible interfacing (e.g. steam-a-seam) and then stitched a ¼ inch seam around the perimeter of the heart. After a few washes, a cute little fringe will develop around the heart. It’s my favorite and fastest way to appliqué. Check out my 7-step tutorial below. =)


2 charm packs, Bliss
1 layer cake, Bliss
1 layer cake, solid white
½ yard inner border
4 yards backing


(Note for newbie’s: when I refer to “sewing,” always sew with right sides of fabric facing together, align the corners, pin the fabric so it stays in place, sew a ¼” seam, and then press open.)

Step 1 – Prep fabrics for the main heart blocks
Sort the charm squares by color and create 20 piles with 3 matching charm squares in each pile. Next, take 5 white layer cakes and cut (4) 5” squares from each. This will give you 20 white 5” squares. Distribute one white 5” square to each of the 20 piles you previously sorted.

Step 2 – Sew the main heart blocks
To make one main heart block, take one pile of charm squares (sorted from Step 1), and arrange them like the following picture. As shown below, sew the squares together to create 2 units.

Then, sew both units together to create one block. Repeat until you have all 20 blocks sewn.

Step 3 – Prep the white background for the appliqué blocks
Take 12 white layer cakes. Trim each one so they measure 9.5”x9.5”. Layer the fabric for faster cutting.

Step 4 –Follow steps A-G below to appliqué the hearts using steam-a-seam. Use leftover charm squares for the hearts. Repeat until you have a total of 12 appliquéd blocks.

A. From a 5”x5” piece of scrap paper, draw and cutout a heart as shown below. You will use this paper heart as a stencil for all the fabric hearts.

B. Next, cut out steam-a-seam to ~ 4.5” squares. As shown below, iron the steam-a-seam to the wrong side of a charm square.

C. Use a marker to trace the paper heart (cut from step A) on the wrong side of the charm square (onto the steam-a-seam layer).

D. Using fabric scissors, cut out the heart.

E. Peel off the steam-a-seam layer from the fabric heart.

F. Place the heart on the white 9.5” square (from step 3) and press in place.

You can arrange the hearts any way you like. Below is another fun idea…

G. Stitch a ¼” seam around the perimeter of the heart.

Step 5 – From your white layer cakes, cut the following (for faster cutting, stack your fabrics):
– Take 7 layer cakes and trim each one to measure a 9 7/8” square. As shown below, cut each 9 7/8” square in half diagonally to form 2 half square triangles. These will be the sides of your main quilt top.

-Take 2 layer cake squares and trim each one to measure a 7 5/8” square. As shown below, cut each 7 5/8” square in half diagonally to form 2 half square triangles each. These will be the corners of your main quilt top.

Step 6 – Arrange all your main blocks and half square triangles cut from the previous step as shown below. Sew the blocks/half square triangles together in diagonal rows, as designated in red. Start by sewing all the blocks/half square triangles in each row together, and then sew all the rows together.

Step 7 – Sew the inner borders and outer borders to the main quilt top:

-Inner border: From the ½ yard of fabric, cut (7) 2.5” strips. These will be for your inner border. First sew the left and right inner borders to the main quilt top. Trim excess fabric.

-Outer borders: From your non-white layer cakes, choose 14 squares. Sew 2 rows of 7 squares together. Cut each row in half lengthwise to form 2 border strips, as shown below.

Start by sewing the left and right inner borders onto the main quilt top, and then the left and right outer borders. Trim excess fabric so the borders are flush with the quilt top and bottom. Repeat, but for the top and bottom inner and outer borders.

Quilt and bind! Click HERE for easy, Quick Quilt Binding.


77″ x 62″ quilt

Jera
{http://www.quiltingintherain.com/}