Positively Epic Quilt


Positively Epic is a quilt that very much lives up to its name! It’s epic in proportion in the fact that it is a queen size quilt of 105” x 105” along with a positive charge of opposites attract with the use of black and white. Not to mention it is also a positive attraction for the use of modern chic and traditional designs with the use of nine patch blocks. Positively Epic is a great quilt for a beginner quilter to a veteran quilter.


(4) Black Bella Solids Layer Cakes 9900 98
(4) White Bella Solids Layer Cakes 9900 99
(4) Yards of Black Bella Solid 9900 98 for border and binding
(3) Yards of 108 backing


Please read all instructions prior to making this quilt! All seam allowances are ¼” unless stated otherwise.

Cutting Directions 
Cut each layer cake into: (2) 3 ½” x 10” rectangles and subcut into (4) 3 ½” x 3 ½” squares
Layer cakes can be cut up to four sheets at a time. Any more than four layers will cause stretching of the fabric. 
Total black squares needed: 548
Total white squares needed: 545

From the 4 yards of Black Bella Solids cut (3) continuous yards from the existing four yards. From the three yards cut: (2) 3 ½” x LOF (length of fabric) = (4) 3 ½” x LOF strips

{pressing and assembly guide}

Making the Plus Signs

  • For the Black Plus Sign Nine Patches take (5) black 3 ½” x 3 ½” squares and (4) white 3 ½” x 3 ½” squares. 
  • For the White Plus Sign Nine Patches take (5) white 3 ½” x 3 ½” squares and (4) black 3 ½” x 3 ½” squares 
  • Sew them into rows of three according to the diagram below. 
  • Press seams of each row according to the arrows. 

  • Next sew the three rows together but first match and pin the seams, then sew.
  • Press seams according to the arrows 

  • Here are the finished results of both plus signs. All blocks should be 9 ½” x 9 ½” 

 

     Making the Rows 

    • Start with a white plus sign for the first row.
    • Then sew the white plus sign to a black plus sign. 
    • Next add a white plus sign to the opposite side of the black plus sign. 
    • Alternate plus signs until eleven blocks are sewn together for one row 
    • Press seams according to the arrows 


     …Continue alternating the blocks until there are eleven blocks in the row. 

    • The next row will alternate from the first row. 
    • Start with a black plus sign for the second row. 
    • Then sew a black plus sign to a white plus sign. 
    • Next add a black plus sign to the opposite side of the white plus sign 
    • Press seams according to the arrows. 

      … Continue alternating the blocks until there are eleven blocks in the row.

    There will be (6) rows starting with the white plus signs and (5) rows starting with the black plus signs. In all there will be eleven rows to sew together for this quilt.

      Sewing the Rows Together 

      •  Start with one white plus sign row, and then match the seam to a black plus sign row. 
      • Pin seams and sew the row together. 
      • Repeat the same process with the next row. 

       
       ….. Continue alternating rows until all eleven rows are sewn together. 

        Adding the Border 

        • Starting with the length of the quilt add the 3 ½” x LOF to each side of the quilt. 
        • Press seams towards the darker fabric. 
        • Evenly cut any excess fabric from both borders to match with the quilt center. 
        • Next add the remaining borders to the width of the quilt. 
        • Again evenly cut off any excess fabric to match the length borders evenly. 

        Finishing the Quilt
        Layer the quilt into a sandwich of backing, batting and then the quilt top, baste, and then quilt. Or take the quilt top to a local machine quilter to have the quilt completed. Once quilting is completed, add the binding


        105”x 105”

        Jennifer Overstreet
        {www.ghquilting.com}
        {jennifer@ghquilting.com}

        Pattern designed and written by Jennifer Overstreet for Moda Bake Shop
        Photos by Jennifer Overstreet

        http://www.ghquilting.com | Copyright © 2013 All Rights Reserved 

        Ah-maz-ing Quilt

        Ah-maz-ing



        Amazing isn’t! Like the Cheshire Cat from Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland this quilt contains its own amusement for anyone who appreciates Modern art, or for anyone who simply likes puzzles. Now my question for all of you out there is, do you see it, and what is it that you see in this 85″ x 85″ Ah-maz-ing quilt?

        For the Quilt Top

        (1) Bella Solid White Jelly Roll 9900 98
        (1) Bella Solid Black Jelly Roll 9900 99
        (1) Yard of Bella Solid White or another Bella Solid White Jelly Roll. 9900 98
        (3) Yards of Bella Solid Black 9900 98
        (2.5) Yards of 108″ Dottie Quilt Backing #11072 14

        Read through the directions first before starting this project!

        All seam allowances are 1/4 of an inch unless stated other wise.

        Open both jelly rolls to start piecing the middle.
        It is best to be warned that you will run out of the white jelly roll strips before completing this quilt top. It is optional to purchase another Bella Solid white jelly roll or to purchase one yard of the Bella Solid white.

        All cutting instructions for this quilt top was completed through improvisation. Please keep in mind that the finished center of this quilt will come out to 79.5″ x 79.5″. Yes, there will be some squaring off the ends. If some of the ends are longer then most its okay, they will be squared off anyway!

        A couple of tips: 

        Since this quilt top is sewn by strips it is best to start sewing one end and then start on the opposite end to prevent a bowing effect that happens if sewn from one end only.

        Grab a few safety pins. Use one safety pin at the very top center (the very first strip) of your quilt top to remind yourself of where you started. Use another safety pin to help mark your place while sewing the strips together to remind yourself of what end you need to start sewing the next strip from.

        Match up all ends from left to right. The right ends will be oddly strewn about while the left ends match up evenly.

        I highly recommend to pin the strips before sewing them together.

        Since the quilt top center will require to be squared off it best to sew 10 strip sections at a time and leave a safety pin in the places as previously suggested.

        Do not throw out any scrap pieces until the very end! Many of the small odd jelly roll strips of fabric were used while going along in this quilt top to conserve on fabric waste.

        Cutting and Piecing

        This is a cut and piece as you go type of quilt. All measurements are given in the row order from number one to number thirty nine. See photo of the quilt as a reference. To fit a twin size bed keep adding on more rows and try your hand at improv piecing if you like. Just remember it is a maze!

        The cutting measurements are coded by color: W = White      B = Black
        All measurements are done in inches

          1. W-36″   B-22.5″   W-24.5″
          2. B-18.5″   W-22.5″   B-42″
          3. W-11.5″  B-20″   W-40″  B-11.5″
          4. B-33″  W-18″   B-32″
          5. W-40″   B-11.5″   W-31.5″
          6. W-6.5″   B-10″ W-36″   B-10″   W-11″   B-10″
          7. B-25″   W-13″   B-30″   W-15″
          8. B-23″   W-24″   B-36″
          9. W-42″   W-41″
          10. B-12″   B-42″   W-10″   B-19″
          11. W-11.5″   B-6″   W-18.5″   B-7″   W-40
          12. W-20.5″   B-42″   W-20.5″
          13. W-29.5″   B-10.5″   W-43″
          14. W-5.5″   B-21.5″   W-25″   B-31″
          15. B-36″   W-36″   B-11″
          16. W-6.5″   B-9.5″   W-42″   W-25″
          17. B-40″   W-7″   B-36″
          18. W-6″   B-5.5″   W-17.5″   B-6″   W-18″   B-31″
          19. W-42″   W-41″
          20. W-20.5″   B-42″   W-20.5
          21. W-7″   B-5″   W-42″   W-29″
          22. B-17″   W-10″   B-12″   W-19″   B-9″   W-17″
          23. W-17″   B-24″   W-16″   B-26″
          24. B-41″   W-10″   B-18″   W-14″
          25. B-9″   W-11″   B-10″   W-36″   B-17″
          26. W-42″   B-8″   W-33″
          27. W-42″   B-41″
          28. W-30″   B-42″   W-11″
          29. W-20″   B-42″   W-21″
          30. B-5″   W-21″   B-42″   W-13″   
          31. W-42″   W-41″
          32. B-9″   W-30″   B-31″   W-13″
          33. B-15″   W-42″   B-26″
          34. B-30″   W-25″   B-12″   W-16″
          35. W-5″   B-12″   W-27″   B-30″   W-9″
          36. B-22″   W-26″   B-20″   W-15″
          37. W-18″   B-5″   W-36″   B-24″
          38. W-7″   B-28″   W-42″   W-6″
          39. W-42″   W-9″   B-18″   W-14″              

        If you did sew these strips into sections, square off each section to 79.5″ wide. Once all the sections are square piece them together.

        Next take the Bella Solid Black and cut (2) 3 .5″ x LOF (length of fabric) for the border.
        Add the borders to all sides.

        Take the rest of the remaining Bella Solid black to make your binding.

        Ah-maz-ing

        85″ x 85″ quilt

        Thank you for stopping by today and checking out this Ah-maz-ing improv quilt! Also be sure to stop by my blog to check out the free companion quilt pattern to Ah-maz-ing called Illusion. 

        Jennifer Overstreet
        {www.ghquilting.com}
        {jennifer@ghquilting.com}

        Pattern designed by Jennifer Overstreet for Moda Bake Shop & Photos by Jennifer Overstreet  http://www.ghquilting.com | Copyright © 2013 All Rights Reserved

        Midwest Crossings Quilt

        MIdwest Crossings 7


        I can not think of any crisper colors that go together well such as indigo and white. It is the color combination that actually lasts the whole year round. Its fresh as a cold crisp winter’s day, rain fall in the spring, a sailing excursion in the summer and a new pair of blue jeans you get every fall. If there ever was a great collection that exerts the color of indigo it would be Indigo Crossing by Minick & Simpson!

        The quilt I have created for the Moda Bake Shop is called Midwest Crossings. The Midwest Crossing quilt consist of sixteen traditional Cats & Mouse quilt blocks that alternate the indigo hues of Ingigo Crossings to give the quilt a chain effect. Naming this quilt “Midwest Crossing” was not only for it’s “X” like stars but because here in America you have to cross through the highways and biways of the Midwest to get from one coast line to the other, and the Midwest is the heart of America!  – J.L. Overstreet

        Midwest Crossing is a 76″ x 76″ quilt
        Indigo Way 2


        (1) Fat Quarter Bundle – Indigo Crossings AB 40 skus 14750AB Moda Precuts
        (3) yards of Bella White #9900-98
        (3 1/2) yards of Indigo Crossings Indigo #14757-13


        Please read all instruction prior to starting this project.
        *All seam will be 1/4″ unless stated other wise.
        Please do use a heavy starch on all fabrics since these blocks deal with a bias cut!

        Cutting Directions:

        From the Fat Quarters

        First gather all the blue fat quarters from the bundle.
        Take each blue fat quarter and cut:
         (2) strips into 4 1/2″x wof then cut the strips down to (5) 4 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ squares. You will need 80 total squares.
         (3) strips into 2 1/2″ x wof then cut strip down to (16) 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ squares. You will need 256 total squares.

        Gather 16 various cream fat quarters and cut:

        (1) 4 1/2″ x wof then cut the strip into (4) 2 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ rectangles. You need 64 rectangles.

        From the cream fat quarters you can pull 16 separate colorways for more of variety but you do not have to. You can easily use three fat quarters for the entire quilt if you like. In a perfect world you can get four strips x wof per fat quarter. Ending with (28) 2 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ rectangles per fat quarter.

        From the white Bella Solids Yardage cut:

        (8) 9″ x wof strips, then cut strips down to (4) 9″ x 9″ squares per strip. You will need 64 total squares. Lastly cut each square once diagonally
        (4) 4 1/2″ x wof strips, then cut strips down to (16) 2 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ rectangles per strip. You will need 64 total rectangles.
        (4) 4″ x wof strips, then cut strips down to (10) 4″ x 4″ squares per strip. You will need 32 total squares. Lastly cut each square once diagonally.

        From the Indigo Crossings Indigo #14757-13 cut:

        (2 1/2) cut yards from the 3 1/2 yards. Save the remaining one yard for your binding. The 2 1/2 yards will be used for your border. You will need (4) strips of  6″ x lof, two total cuts in all. Since I chose a one directional print for the border, I simply made the print look like it is going around the quilt. This way when the quilt is laid out there is no wrong direction to the quilt.

        Block Assembly:

        The block used for this quilt is call the Cat & Mouse block. Using alternating blues give this quilt an affect of chasing and chaining.

        For this quilt it is easier to assemble the blocks by color hues, dark blues with dark blues and light blues match up with the light blues. Mix and match ex: dark blue printed 4 1/2′ x 4 1/2″ squares with dark blue printed 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ squares. Repeat the same process for the light and medium blue hues. You will have eight sets of both blues hues with a total of sixteen blocks in all. Just a note: there is a medium blue hue in this fabric line. I simply added them to the light blues because there is not enough light blue fabric in this collection to make up the eight blocks needed for the light blues for this quilt.

        Each block will need:
        (5) 4 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ squares
        (16) 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ squares
        (4) 2 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ white rectangles
        (4) 2 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ cream rectangles
        (2) 4″ x 4″ squares mark and cut on a diagonal  (I know I have angle written in the photo)
        (2) 9″ x 9″ squares mark and cut on a diagonal. (Same as above, I know, I know!)
        This example is for one block only.
        Picture 1772 1

        Flying geese Assembly

        • Gather the 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ squares, a ruler and a marking/writing utensil of your choice.
        • Align the ruler on the square on the wrong side of the fabric on an diagonal.
        • Make your mark and repeat the the same process over for the remaining (15) 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ squares.

        Ohio Crossings 1

        •  Next take (1) 2 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ rectangle, and align a 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ square right sides together. Preferably starting the alignment on the left side. 
        • Once the two are aligned then stitch on a diagonal. Start the stitch from the bottom left to center top of the rectangle.  Repeat the same process for the remaining 2 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ rectangle and 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ squares. Chain piecing works great for this process.

        Ohio Crossings 3

        • Grab a ruler and a cutting utensil of choice and cut a 1/4″ above the seam/stitch line.
        • Remove excess fabric.

        Ohio Crossings 2

        • Press open the left wing on all your half winged geese.
        • Take another 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ square and align it on the right side or opposite side of the 2 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ half winged geese. Again stitch right sides together.
        • Then start stitching from the bottom right of the rectangle to the center on a diagonal.  

        Ohio Crossings 4

        • Again bring back the ruler and cutting utensil of choice, and cut  1/4″ above the seam/stitch line.
        • Remove excess fabric.
        • Press open the right wing of the flying geese.
        • Repeat the process for the remaining half winged geese.

        Ohio Crossings 5

        • Congratulations you have finished with creating a flying goose.
        • You will need (8) flying geese in all. (4) with a white center and (4) with a cream center.

        Picture 1782

        From Flying Geese to the Hour Glass and to the start of the Star/Cat & Mouse Block.
        Again this example is still for one block

        • With the (4) white flying geese and the (4) cream flying geese, align each colorway, right sides together at the points of the geese.
        • Stitch across the top right sides together of points of the flying geese, and then press the seams. This will give you (4) hourglass blocks.
        • Next grab the (5) 4 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ squares and the (4) hourglass blocks.
        • Take (1) of the 4 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ squares and (1) of the hour glass blocks and stitch with the square right sides together to the white side of the hour glass block (photo below examples it wrong). Repeat this process one more time to get two separate hour glass square combinations. 
        • Lastly grab the remaining (3) 4 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ squares and the (2) remaining hour glass blocks.
        • Start with a square, then stitch the square to the white side of the first hour glass block right sides together.
        • Then stitch the next square to the cream side of the hour glass block right sides together.
        • Now add the remaining hour glass block by stitching it cream side to the opposite side the the second square right sides together. 
        • Lastly stitch on the last remaining square right sides together to the white side of the hour glass block. *see photo below and yes, that example is correct! This combination will be a long strip. 
        • Press all seams.

        Ohio Crossings 6

        Piecing the star/Cats & Mouse block together.

        • This process  you will need the single hour glass and square combination and (1) 9″ x 9″ square that has all ready been cut on a diagonal, giving you two right triangles.
        •  Stitch the hour glass block combination and the (1) of the right triangles right sides together starting from the bottom of hour glass side. Then stitch the other right triangle to the other side of the hour glass combination right sides together starting from the bottom of the hour glass side again. Repeat this process for the other hour glass right triangle combination.
        • Press seams.
        • Next align and pin the seams of the longer strip of the hour glass combination to one of the hour glass right triangle combination. Press seams and repeat the process for the other side.

        Ohio Crossings 7

        • Once all seams are pressed cut off all dog ears on all four sides of the block.

        Ohio Crossings 8

        • Finally grab the (2) 4″ x 4″ squares that are cut on a diagonal.
        • Take each right triangle of the 4″ x 4″ squares and center them evenly to the open edges of the nearly finished Cats & Mouse block. 
        • Pin them, stitch, and then press open.
        • Trim additional dog ears if needed.

        Ohio Crossings 9

        • Your finished product will be one finished block measuring 17 1/2″ x 17 1/2″

        Picture 1793

        • If there is a need to trim all of your blocks evenly don’t worry I designed these blocks so that you have a 1/4″ lead way all around to trim them down if necessary. This will give you a 17″ x 17″ square block.
        • Repeat the entire process for the remaining 15 blocks to make up this quilt.  

        Assembling the quilt

        • When all 16 blocks are finished, place them in alternating blue hues to your liking in four to a row then stitch each row.
        • Press each row seams and then start stitching each of the rows together.
        • Make the final presses on the rows and then start stitching the 6′ x lof border to the sides of the quilt top.
        • Once the quilt top is complete, layer, baste and quilt to your liking,
        • Then add the binding.

         76″ x 76″ quilt

        Midwest Crossings 8 
        Thank you for stopping by the Bake Shop today!

        Jennifer Overstreet
        {www.ghquilting.com}

        H-A-LL-O-W-EE-N Spells Halloween! Wall Hanging

        Halloween!

        Happy Halloween everyone! Hi, I am Jennifer Overstreet from gh quilting and I whipped up this fun loving banner just in time for the frightening Halloween season. Where did I get the inspiration for this banner? In elementary school  of course! My music teacher had this simple little diddy to teach us how to spell Halloween. You’ll have to forgive me because I do not remember the whole song. However, I still to this day have the choirs stuck in my head and it simply goes like this: H-A-(double) L-O…W-(double) E-N spells Halloween! And of course repeats itself. Along with ghost and goblins, and pumpkins, and spooky eyes, and scary sites…Oh my!


        (1) H “owl”een layer cake designed by Deb Strain for Moda
        (1/2) yard of Bella Solids Black 9900-00 or optional Bella Solids Black Layer Cake 9900LC-99
        (2 1/2) yards of Purple Spiderwebs 19553-16
        (1/2) yard of Black White 19557-17
        (1) yard of a light fusible interfacing

        Print out the six pages for the applique and template to go along with the pattern. {You can find the templates in the Printer Friendly Version at the bottom of this post.}


        Please read all instructions prior to making this project!
        *All seams are 1/4″ unless noted other wise!

        Auditioning: is where you match up prints that will work well together ex: what you have in mind of what you think will work together just may not. I ran into this a lot on this project. Best to put them all together on a design wall/floor on how well they will play nicely before cutting and stitching!

        Part One: Making the background block

        • From the H”owl”een layer cake choose six different 10″ squares.
        • Cut each square into 5 1/2″ x 9 1/2″ rectangle. Set aside the left over fabric and save for the applique or the strips for the spiderwebs.
        • Next cut six 4 1/2″ x 9 1/2″ rectangles from the 1/2 yardage or you can pull three 10″ squares from the Bella solids black. From the 10″ square you will get two cut rectangles measuring 4 1/2″ x 9 1/2″
        • Once all of your rectangles are cut take one print and one black rectangle, stitch right sides together along the 9 1/2″ seam, then press to open.
        • Set the six 9 1/2″ x 9 1/2″ blocks aside. 
        Part Two: The applique process
        • Take the fusible interfacing and any left over material from the printed 10″ squares or any random five to six 10 ” squares from the H”owl”een layer cake. Fuse the auditioned material by pressing with you hot iron to the interfacing with the material right side up.
        • Once all choice fabric is fused to the interfacing, cut out the templates that printed out in the PFD version of this pattern.
        • When all the templates are cut out, trace each of the Halloween letter templates with choice of writing utensil to the interfacing side of each variable 10″ square. Be sure to have each letter facing backwards for instance if you want the letter “b” to be read as a letter “b” turn the template over to trace it so it looks like a letter “d” to you. *There is no letter “b” in any of the applique for this project, its just an example! 
        • After tracing out all the letters for the word Halloween choose which of the 9 1/2″ x 9 1/2″ block the letters will go with. Keep in mind that each of the printed side of the 9 1/2″ blocks will be opposite from each other, while the black side stays in the middle.
        • Once you have chosen the arrangement of letter(s) to each 9 1/2″ x 9 1/2″ block start appliqueing them to the black proportion of each block. *My applique process on this was to rough edge applique via blanket stitch by machine. Be sure to follow the rhythm of the song for each block as in HA for block one. LL for block two. O for block three. W for block four. EE for block five and N for block six. Each letter can be wonky, straight, or however you see fit to place it! Also when placing any applique pieces to the blocks, be sure that there is a 1/4″ on each side so that the applique piece is not accidentally sewn into the seam!
        • After appliqueing on the Halloween letters as directed to each block. Start cutting out the facial templates and audition them to any of the left over scrap 10″ squares or introduce them to new 10″ squares from the H”owl”een layer cake.
        • Repete the same process for the Facial templates as stated above for the Halloween letter templates.
        • Place each facial applique piece to your liking ( it does not have to be like mine, feel free to place them where you see them to be fit).
        • After all the blocks are appliqued, place them aside to start on the spiderwebs.
        Part Three: Spiderwebs
        • From the H”owl”een layer cake you can use any left over pieces from the applique process so as long as they are still 10″ or pull few more new 10″ squares to start the strip cutting for the spiderwebs.
        • From various prints cut (24) strips of 2″ x 10″ and (36) strips of 1 5/8″ x 10″.

        spiderweb cut 4

        • Step one: Randomly take (2) 2″ x 10″ strips and (3) 1 5/8″ x 10″ strips and sew them together by having the 2″ x 10″ strips on the out side and the 1 5/8″ x 10″ on the inside. (12) strip blocks are needed for this process.
        • Step two: Cut out the template and place it on top of the strips about 1/4″ away from the edge.
        • Step three: Place your ruler over the template for rotary cutting. Be sure that the ruler covers over the template so that you do not cut the template size down and make your first cut.
        • Step four: Repeat the same process for the other side of the template and save the excess scrap pieces. They will be need for later in the spiderweb process.

        spiderweb cut 5

        • Step five: Turn the template so that the wider side is on top of the strip block 
        • Step six: Repeat the process as before to make the next cut with the rotary cutter. 
        • Step seven: Turn the template back to the same position as the first cut and repeat the process of making the final cut in the block. Remember to save the scrap pieces for later. 
        • Step eight: Randomly select (6) different triangles for the half spiderweb block to achieve a scrappy look. Sew each triangle right sides together until it starts to look like a spiderweb bunting and then press flat to open.
        • Repeat the same process for the remaining (5) spiderweb blocks.
        Squaring the Spiderweb Block

        Spiderweb cut 2

        • As indicated in the picture above: Align the center of the web on a cutting mat for an even vertical cut.
        • Then align your ruler on the 7″ line of your cutting mat.
        • Finally make the cut straight across to even out the web.
        • Repeat the same process for the remain (5) spiderweb blocks. 

        Adding the scrap pieces to the Spiderweb Blocks
        Spiderweb cut 6

        • Step one: Bring back the scrap pieces from the strip blocks. Place them on theend of the second triangle with the wider end towards the center of the spiderweb
        • Step two: With about a 1/2″ over hang on each side stitch the scrap piece to the spiderweb block right sides together.
        • Step three: Press open to lay flat. *It does not matter if you do this process before or after adding the applique block to the spiderweb block.

        Picture 1454

        • Bring back the appliqued 9 1/2″ x 9 1/2″ appliques blocks.
        • Center the spiderweb blocks to the black side of the 9 1/2″ x 9 1/2″ appliqued blocks.
        • With right sides together stitch and then press open towards the the black center.

        Picture 1459

        • Once the spiderweb block and the applique block are sewn together align the block on a cutting mat to square off the excess fabric from the top and bottom sides.
        • Then measure 5 1/2″ away from the connecting seam of the black center and the spiderweb, cut off the excess fabric at 5 1/2″. This will be a 9 1/2″ x 15 1/2″ block in all.
        • Repeat the same process for the remaining (5) blocks.
        Part Four: Putting it all together!
        • Starting piecing the inner banner together with the “HA” block until the banner spells out Halloween. Make sure right sides are together when sewing blocks together. 
        • Finished inner banner will be 15 1/2″ x 57″
        Adding the boarder
        • From the purple spiderweb fabric cut the top and bottom borders 3″ x 20 1/2″ and set aside
        • Also from the purple spiderweb fabric cut the side borders 3″ x LOF or 3″ x 54 1/2″.
        • Add each 3″ x 54 1/2″ border strip to each of the long sides of the inner banner, square off if needed.
        • Then add the 3″ x 20 1/2″ borders to the top and bottom of the inner banner. 
        The finally!!!!
        • Take the finished banner to your local long arm quilter or quilt it on your own.
        • Attach hanging pieces via way of your method of choice to the back of the banner.
        • Finish off with the binding  

        One fun loving spooky kooky 20″x 60″
         H-A-(double) L-O-W-(double) E-N Spells Halloween Banner 

        Halloween!
        Thank you for stopping by and checking out my project today!
        Jennifer Overstreet | {jennifer@ghquilting.com}

        Today’s Tip: Cutting Mat De-Fuzz

        Today’s tip comes from Jennifer Overstreet of {www.ghquilting.com}.


        All quilters know that cutting mats wear down like a well-loved pair of shoes. Jennifer has a neat tip to remove some of the fabric fuzz that gets stuck in the well-worn grooves.

        Jennifer says:

        1. Got Fabric fuzz stuck in your cutting mat from excessive rotary cutting in the same spot? 
        2. Grab a pink eraser to make it all go away! I happen to have an extremely large one from our Dollar Store.
        3. Take your pink eraser and rub it over the fabric fuzz to lift the fuzz out of your mat.
        4. Dust away the eraser residue and the loosen fabric fuzz
        5. No more fabric fuzz left behind from excessive rotary cutting.

         Thanks for sharing, Jennifer! Would you like to share your favorite sewing tip? Send us an email.

        Happy sewing!

        Today’s Tip: Binding

        We are going to share a series of sewing tips and tricks here on the Moda Bake Shop. Would you like to share your favorite sewing tip? Send us an email.

        Today’s tip comes from Jennifer Overstreet of {www.ghquilting.com}.

        Jennifer suggests trimming away the excess fabric at your corners when binding your quilt. This cuts down on the bulk and leaves you with a nice smooth corner. It’s especially helpful when you are working with true bias binding and curved edges.

        See how Jennifer’s binding turned out on her Tea Time Quilt.

        Happy sewing!

        Tea Time For You & Me!

        Tea time


        There is always something magical about a tea party. Especially when you’re the one invited by your little one to join her while you’re in between hanging out loads of laundry on a warm summer day. The sailor bear will not mind to share his chair with you! So come on and enjoy these small moments while they last. Let me tell ya they do fly by fast!

        Hi, everyone! I am Jennifer Overstreet from gh quilting. My inspiration for this project came from memories of when my daughter was little (now she is a teenager). Even though she was not the princess type (and still not) she loved to have a tea party every now and then.

        With that said…

        I hope that this vintage inspired quilted table cloth will put some smiles and delight into your little one’s tea party!

        All seams are 1/4″ unless stated otherwise.
        WOF = Width of Fabric
        Please read all instructions/directions prior to assembly!

        1- Layer Cake, California Girls by Fig Tree & Co.
        2 1/4 yards Fresh Linen (cream) 20188-11 for Backing, Sashing, and Ice Cream Cone Dividers
        1/2 yard Coral 20187-12 for Binding

        Ruler needed:

        Creative Grids Non-Slip 18 Degree Dresden Plate Ruler #CGR18CF

        English Paper Pieced Dresden Plate Place Mats
        1/2 yard Bella Solid Tea Rose (9900-89) –  A light coral for Dresden plate backing and Dresden centers
        Dresden plate English paper piecing templates
               

         

        The Top

                                                     (26″ x 26″)
        Califorina Girls tea party

        Cutting Directions:

        • Select 35 squares from your layer cake and cut into 2″ strips. *I did not use any double prints or solids. Best to cut layer cake by two or three layers at a time so that you do not stretch the fabric while cutting it. You will need 225 squares. Yes, you will have extras!  Set the rest of the layer cake aside.
        • Cut strips into 2″ squares
        • From the 2 yards of cream fabric cut 6 – 1 1/2″ strips x WOF.
        • Take each strip and cut, starting from the selvedge, at 8″ increments. These strips will be your sashing, and they should measure 8″x 1 1/2″. You will end up with 24 pieces. Set aside.
        • From the layer cake pull the dark coral solid, and cut 3 – 1 1/2″ strips.
        • Take each strip and cut them down to 1 1/2-inch squares. You will need 16. These are your sashing squares. Set aside.

        Assembly:

        • Take the 2″ x 2″- 225 plus squares and arrange them so you can see each print and colorway.
        • Gather 25 squares of your choice and arrange in a 5 x 5 grid to create a 25-patch block as shown below.
          • Stitch each square together one side at a time to make a row of five.
          • Press seams to one side. Then press the next row of five to the opposite side
          • Once you have five rows, start stitching you rows together.
          • When finished assembling your first block, repeat the process over again for the remaining eight blocks.
        Tea party block
        • Take your finished blocks and start adding the cream sashing ( Need 4 – 8″ x 1 1/2″ strips per row) to one side of the block. It does not matter if you go up or down or left to right when starting off. 
        • It does matter that you start with a sashing strip and then a solid block, then a sashing, then a solid block until you finish with as sashing. You will end up with 3 rows.
        • Take the remaining sashing (3- 8″ x 1 1/2″ strips) and the dark coral (4) 1 1/2″ x 1 1/2″ squares stitch them together by doing the same process as the blocks and sashing. On the exception it will be square then sashing, square then sashing, until you finish with a square. You will have four rows when you are finished.
        • Make sure to press the seams of each row in the opposite direction from the row before it.
        • Start stitching the rows together and then press seams open.
        • Set completed top aside.
        Ice Cream Cone Border

        Ice cream cone  binding 10

        Cutting Directions

        Ice Cream Cone Dividers
        • From the remaining cream yardage, cut 2 – 5 1/2″ x WOF strips.
        • Starting at the selvedge, set the 18 Degree Dresden Plate Ruler (pointed end at the bottom of the fabric) so the 5 1/2″ marking on the ruler lines up with the top edge of your fabric.
        • Trim off and discard the small excess selvedge end (shown below).
        • Make your second cut on the opposite side of the ruler. The wedge you have cut will be the dividers between the ice cream cones.
        dresden cuts
        • To make the next cut, flip your ruler so that the pointed end is on the top of the strip.  Make sure that the bottom edge is lined up with the 5 1/2″ mark on the ruler. Cut as before.
        • Repeat this process until you have cut 44 wedges.
        dresden cuts 1
        Ice Cream Cones
        • Gather the remaining cuts from the layer cake that you used earlier to cut the 2- 2″ strips from. Each remaining layer cake piece should measure out to be 6″ x 10″ rectangle.
        • Cut each piece with the Dresden Plate ruler the same way you cut the ice cream cone dividers. You will only need 2 wedges from each 6″ x 10′ rectangle. Line your fabric edge up with the 6″ mark, not the 5 1/2″ mark as before. You will need 48 wedges. Set remaining layer cake pieces aside.
        Making the curve on the Ice Cream Cone
        • Take a 6″ Dresden plate wedge (printed piece) and press it in half lengthwise.
        • Then take the Circle Segment Ruler from the Dresden Plate ruler set and place it on the fold of your pressed fabric, lining the center mark of the ruler up with the crease. Make sure center line of the Circle Segment ruler lines up on the fold of the wedge, and that the top of the ruler and the top of the fold line up before cutting.
        • Use a 28-mm rotary cutter to cut the curve. Discard the scrap edges.
        • Open up the ice cream cone and press.
        Ice cream cones 1
        Assembly
        • Take one ice cream cone and one divider.
        • Line the two pieces up so the tip of the divider meets the point of the curved edge of the ice cream cone (see image below).
        • Start stitching at the bottom curve of the ice cream cone.
        • Make sure that each row starts with a divider and ends with a divider.
        • Press seams towards the dividers. Yes, do this on both sides of the divider!

          It gives the whole border balance, and keeps the bias edges in check.

        • Repeat the process for the remaining 3 borders.
        • Each border will have 11 dividers and 11 ice cream cones.
        Ice cream cones
        • Press the 4 remaining ice cream cones in half lengthwise, and then cut them in half.
        • This will give you 8 halves to add to the end of each border.
        • Stitch each half the same way you stitched the rest of the border.
        ice cream cones 2

        • Stitching the borders to the sides of your top!
        • Baste, quilt as desired, and bind.
        • Due to the many curves, I highly recommend a bias binding and hand stitching the binding onto the back of the quilt.
        Dresden Plate English Paper Piecing for Optional Place Mats

        Tea Party 1

        I apologize in advance for not having any instructions on how to English paper piece. Feel free to contact me for more information on where I got my English paper pieceing products and what sizes were used in this project.

        If you choose to English paper piece your Dresden plates, use the remaining layer cake pieces and cut 6″ x WOF from the light coral yardage for the center of each Dresden plate. I recommend that you re-baste the petals once you remove the paper pieces. Otherwise they will fray and loose their shape.
         

        Alternatively, you can use the Dresden Plate ruler set to make Dresden plate flower place mats. Again, use the remaining layer cake pieces.

        *Note: the petals shown above are are 2 1/2″

         
        Assembly

        • Once you are finished with your Dresden plates, cut 11″ x WOF from the light coral yardage.
        • Cut the 11″ strips into 11″ squares.  You will need four 11″ squares to use as backing for your Dresden plates.
        • Sandwich your Dresden plate just like you would if you were making a quilt.
        • Stitch around each petal at the very edge. I recommend a blanket stitch or a zig zag stitch.
        • Then stitch around the edge of the circle or plate if you will.
        • Cut away the batting and backing from the outer edges.
        • Remove basting stitches if you paper pieced.
        Tea Dresden 1
        tea dresden 2tea dresden 3
        One Last Tip…

        corner cutting on binding

        This is one of the tricky parts of the binding process and removing the excess from the corner is rarely ever done. In this case it is a necessity. Be sure not to cut too close to the fold or the stitching when you cut the excess out. By doing this, you will add more flexibility and remove the bulk from your finished corners.

        One enchanted Tea Time table cloth measuring 38″ x 38″
        tea time 1
        Thank you for stopping by!

        Jennifer Overstreet