Positively Epic Quilt

Positively Epic is a quilt that very much lives up to its name! It’s epic in proportion in the fact that it is a queen size quilt of 105” x 105” along with a positive charge of opposites attract with the use of black and white. Not to mention it is also a positive attraction for the use of modern chic and traditional designs with the use of nine patch blocks. Positively Epic is a great quilt for a beginner quilter to a veteran quilter.

(4) Black Bella Solids Layer Cakes 9900 98
(4) White Bella Solids Layer Cakes 9900 99
(4) Yards of Black Bella Solid 9900 98 for border and binding
(3) Yards of 108 backing

Please read all instructions prior to making this quilt! All seam allowances are ¼” unless stated otherwise.

Cutting Directions
Cut each layer cake into: (2) 3 ½” x 10” rectangles and subcut into (4) 3 ½” x 3 ½” squares
Layer cakes can be cut up to four sheets at a time. Any more than four layers will cause stretching of the fabric.
Total black squares needed: 548
Total white squares needed: 545

From the 4 yards of Black Bella Solids cut (3) continuous yards from the existing four yards. From the three yards cut: (2) 3 ½” x LOF (length of fabric) = (4) 3 ½” x LOF strips

{pressing and assembly guide}

Making the Plus Signs

For the Black Plus Sign Nine Patches take (5) black 3 ½” x 3 ½” squares and (4) white 3 ½” x 3 ½” squares.
For the White Plus Sign Nine Patches take (5) white 3 ½” x 3 ½” squares and (4) black 3 ½” x 3 ½” squares
Sew them into rows of three according to the diagram below.
Press seams of each row according to the arrows.

Next sew the three rows together but first match and pin the seams, then sew.
Press seams according to the arrows

Here are the finished results of both plus signs. All blocks should be 9 ½” x 9 ½”

Making the Rows

Start with a white plus sign for the first row.
Then sew the white plus sign to a black plus sign.
Next add a white plus sign to the opposite side of the black plus sign.
Alternate plus signs until eleven blocks are sewn together for one row
Press seams according to the arrows

…Continue alternating the blocks until there are eleven blocks in the row.

The next row will alternate from the first row.
Start with a black plus sign for the second row.
Then sew a black plus sign to a white plus sign.
Next add a black plus sign to the opposite side of the white plus sign
Press seams according to the arrows.

… Continue alternating the blocks until there are eleven blocks in the row.

There will be (6) rows starting with the white plus signs and (5) rows starting with the black plus signs. In all there will be eleven rows to sew together for this quilt.

Sewing the Rows Together

Start with one white plus sign row, and then match the seam to a black plus sign row.
Pin seams and sew the row together.
Repeat the same process with the next row.

….. Continue alternating rows until all eleven rows are sewn together.

Adding the Border

Starting with the length of the quilt add the 3 ½” x LOF to each side of the quilt.
Press seams towards the darker fabric.
Evenly cut any excess fabric from both borders to match with the quilt center.
Next add the remaining borders to the width of the quilt.
Again evenly cut off any excess fabric to match the length borders evenly.

Finishing the Quilt
Layer the quilt into a sandwich of backing, batting and then the quilt top, baste, and then quilt. Or take the quilt top to a local machine quilter to have the quilt completed. Once quilting is completed, add the binding

105”x 105”

Jennifer Overstreet
{www.ghquilting.com}
{jennifer@ghquilting.com}

Pattern designed and written by Jennifer Overstreet for Moda Bake Shop

Photos by Jennifer Overstreet

Ah-maz-ing Quilt

Jun20

Amazing isn’t! Like the Cheshire Cat from Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland this quilt contains its own amusement for anyone who appreciates Modern art, or for anyone who simply likes puzzles. Now my question for all of you out there is, do you see it, and what is it that you see in this 85″ x 85″ Ah-maz-ing quilt?

For the Quilt Top

(1) Bella Solid White Jelly Roll 9900 98
(1) Bella Solid Black Jelly Roll 9900 99
(1) Yard of Bella Solid White or another Bella Solid White Jelly Roll. 9900 98
(3) Yards of Bella Solid Black 9900 98
(2.5) Yards of 108″ Dottie Quilt Backing #11072 14

Read through the directions first before starting this project!

All seam allowances are 1/4 of an inch unless stated other wise.

Open both jelly rolls to start piecing the middle.
It is best to be warned that you will run out of the white jelly roll strips before completing this quilt top. It is optional to purchase another Bella Solid white jelly roll or to purchase one yard of the Bella Solid white.

All cutting instructions for this quilt top was completed through improvisation. Please keep in mind that the finished center of this quilt will come out to 79.5″ x 79.5″. Yes, there will be some squaring off the ends. If some of the ends are longer then most its okay, they will be squared off anyway!

A couple of tips:

Since this quilt top is sewn by strips it is best to start sewing one end and then start on the opposite end to prevent a bowing effect that happens if sewn from one end only.

Grab a few safety pins. Use one safety pin at the very top center (the very first strip) of your quilt top to remind yourself of where you started. Use another safety pin to help mark your place while sewing the strips together to remind yourself of what end you need to start sewing the next strip from.

Match up all ends from left to right. The right ends will be oddly strewn about while the left ends match up evenly.

I highly recommend to pin the strips before sewing them together.

Since the quilt top center will require to be squared off it best to sew 10 strip sections at a time and leave a safety pin in the places as previously suggested.

Do not throw out any scrap pieces until the very end! Many of the small odd jelly roll strips of fabric were used while going along in this quilt top to conserve on fabric waste.

Cutting and Piecing

This is a cut and piece as you go type of quilt. All measurements are given in the row order from number one to number thirty nine. See photo of the quilt as a reference. To fit a twin size bed keep adding on more rows and try your hand at improv piecing if you like. Just remember it is a maze!

The cutting measurements are coded by color: W = White B = Black
All measurements are done in inches

W-36″ B-22.5″ W-24.5″
B-18.5″ W-22.5″ B-42″
W-11.5″ B-20″ W-40″ B-11.5″
B-33″ W-18″ B-32″
W-40″ B-11.5″ W-31.5″
W-6.5″ B-10″ W-36″ B-10″ W-11″ B-10″
B-25″ W-13″ B-30″ W-15″
B-23″ W-24″ B-36″
W-42″ W-41″
B-12″ B-42″ W-10″ B-19″
W-11.5″ B-6″ W-18.5″ B-7″ W-40
W-20.5″ B-42″ W-20.5″
W-29.5″ B-10.5″ W-43″
W-5.5″ B-21.5″ W-25″ B-31″
B-36″ W-36″ B-11″
W-6.5″ B-9.5″ W-42″ W-25″
B-40″ W-7″ B-36″
W-6″ B-5.5″ W-17.5″ B-6″ W-18″ B-31″
W-42″ W-41″
W-20.5″ B-42″ W-20.5
W-7″ B-5″ W-42″ W-29″
B-17″ W-10″ B-12″ W-19″ B-9″ W-17″
W-17″ B-24″ W-16″ B-26″
B-41″ W-10″ B-18″ W-14″
B-9″ W-11″ B-10″ W-36″ B-17″
W-42″ B-8″ W-33″
W-42″ B-41″
W-30″ B-42″ W-11″
W-20″ B-42″ W-21″
B-5″ W-21″ B-42″ W-13″
W-42″ W-41″
B-9″ W-30″ B-31″ W-13″
B-15″ W-42″ B-26″
B-30″ W-25″ B-12″ W-16″
W-5″ B-12″ W-27″ B-30″ W-9″
B-22″ W-26″ B-20″ W-15″
W-18″ B-5″ W-36″ B-24″
W-7″ B-28″ W-42″ W-6″
W-42″ W-9″ B-18″ W-14″

If you did sew these strips into sections, square off each section to 79.5″ wide. Once all the sections are square piece them together.

Next take the Bella Solid Black and cut (2) 3 .5″ x LOF (length of fabric) for the border.
Add the borders to all sides.

Take the rest of the remaining Bella Solid black to make your binding.

85″ x 85″ quilt

Thank you for stopping by today and checking out this Ah-maz-ing improv quilt! Also be sure to stop by my blog to check out the free companion quilt pattern to Ah-maz-ing called Illusion.

Jennifer Overstreet
{www.ghquilting.com}
{jennifer@ghquilting.com}

Midwest Crossings Quilt

Feb15

I can not think of any crisper colors that go together well such as indigo and white. It is the color combination that actually lasts the whole year round. Its fresh as a cold crisp winter’s day, rain fall in the spring, a sailing excursion in the summer and a new pair of blue jeans you get every fall. If there ever was a great collection that exerts the color of indigo it would be Indigo Crossing by Minick & Simpson!

The quilt I have created for the Moda Bake Shop is called Midwest Crossings. The Midwest Crossing quilt consist of sixteen traditional Cats & Mouse quilt blocks that alternate the indigo hues of Ingigo Crossings to give the quilt a chain effect. Naming this quilt “Midwest Crossing” was not only for it’s “X” like stars but because here in America you have to cross through the highways and biways of the Midwest to get from one coast line to the other, and the Midwest is the heart of America! – J.L. Overstreet

Midwest Crossing is a 76″ x 76″ quilt

(1) Fat Quarter Bundle – Indigo Crossings AB 40 skus 14750AB Moda Precuts
(3) yards of Bella White #9900-98
(3 1/2) yards of Indigo Crossings Indigo #14757-13

Please read all instruction prior to starting this project.
*All seam will be 1/4″ unless stated other wise.
Please do use a heavy starch on all fabrics since these blocks deal with a bias cut!

Cutting Directions:

From the Fat Quarters

First gather all the blue fat quarters from the bundle.
Take each blue fat quarter and cut:
(2) strips into 4 1/2″x wof then cut the strips down to (5) 4 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ squares. You will need 80 total squares.
(3) strips into 2 1/2″ x wof then cut strip down to (16) 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ squares. You will need 256 total squares.

Gather 16 various cream fat quarters and cut:

(1) 4 1/2″ x wof then cut the strip into (4) 2 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ rectangles. You need 64 rectangles.

From the cream fat quarters you can pull 16 separate colorways for more of variety but you do not have to. You can easily use three fat quarters for the entire quilt if you like. In a perfect world you can get four strips x wof per fat quarter. Ending with (28) 2 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ rectangles per fat quarter.

From the white Bella Solids Yardage cut:

(8) 9″ x wof strips, then cut strips down to (4) 9″ x 9″ squares per strip. You will need 64 total squares. Lastly cut each square once diagonally
(4) 4 1/2″ x wof strips, then cut strips down to (16) 2 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ rectangles per strip. You will need 64 total rectangles.
(4) 4″ x wof strips, then cut strips down to (10) 4″ x 4″ squares per strip. You will need 32 total squares. Lastly cut each square once diagonally.

From the Indigo Crossings Indigo #14757-13 cut:

(2 1/2) cut yards from the 3 1/2 yards. Save the remaining one yard for your binding. The 2 1/2 yards will be used for your border. You will need (4) strips of 6″ x lof, two total cuts in all. Since I chose a one directional print for the border, I simply made the print look like it is going around the quilt. This way when the quilt is laid out there is no wrong direction to the quilt.

Block Assembly:

The block used for this quilt is call the Cat & Mouse block. Using alternating blues give this quilt an affect of chasing and chaining.

For this quilt it is easier to assemble the blocks by color hues, dark blues with dark blues and light blues match up with the light blues. Mix and match ex: dark blue printed 4 1/2′ x 4 1/2″ squares with dark blue printed 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ squares. Repeat the same process for the light and medium blue hues. You will have eight sets of both blues hues with a total of sixteen blocks in all. Just a note: there is a medium blue hue in this fabric line. I simply added them to the light blues because there is not enough light blue fabric in this collection to make up the eight blocks needed for the light blues for this quilt.

Each block will need:
(5) 4 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ squares
(16) 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ squares
(4) 2 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ white rectangles
(4) 2 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ cream rectangles
(2) 4″ x 4″ squares mark and cut on a diagonal (I know I have angle written in the photo)
(2) 9″ x 9″ squares mark and cut on a diagonal. (Same as above, I know, I know!)
This example is for one block only.

Flying geese Assembly

Gather the 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ squares, a ruler and a marking/writing utensil of your choice.
Align the ruler on the square on the wrong side of the fabric on an diagonal.
Make your mark and repeat the the same process over for the remaining (15) 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ squares.

Next take (1) 2 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ rectangle, and align a 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ square right sides together. Preferably starting the alignment on the left side.
Once the two are aligned then stitch on a diagonal. Start the stitch from the bottom left to center top of the rectangle. Repeat the same process for the remaining 2 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ rectangle and 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ squares. Chain piecing works great for this process.

Grab a ruler and a cutting utensil of choice and cut a 1/4″ above the seam/stitch line.
Remove excess fabric.

Press open the left wing on all your half winged geese.
Take another 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ square and align it on the right side or opposite side of the 2 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ half winged geese. Again stitch right sides together.
Then start stitching from the bottom right of the rectangle to the center on a diagonal.

Again bring back the ruler and cutting utensil of choice, and cut 1/4″ above the seam/stitch line.
Remove excess fabric.
Press open the right wing of the flying geese.
Repeat the process for the remaining half winged geese.

Congratulations you have finished with creating a flying goose.
You will need (8) flying geese in all. (4) with a white center and (4) with a cream center.

From Flying Geese to the Hour Glass and to the start of the Star/Cat & Mouse Block.
Again this example is still for one block

With the (4) white flying geese and the (4) cream flying geese, align each colorway, right sides together at the points of the geese.
Stitch across the top right sides together of points of the flying geese, and then press the seams. This will give you (4) hourglass blocks.
Next grab the (5) 4 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ squares and the (4) hourglass blocks.
Take (1) of the 4 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ squares and (1) of the hour glass blocks and stitch with the square right sides together to the white side of the hour glass block (photo below examples it wrong). Repeat this process one more time to get two separate hour glass square combinations.
Lastly grab the remaining (3) 4 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ squares and the (2) remaining hour glass blocks.
Start with a square, then stitch the square to the white side of the first hour glass block right sides together.
Then stitch the next square to the cream side of the hour glass block right sides together.
Now add the remaining hour glass block by stitching it cream side to the opposite side the the second square right sides together.
Lastly stitch on the last remaining square right sides together to the white side of the hour glass block. *see photo below and yes, that example is correct! This combination will be a long strip.
Press all seams.

Piecing the star/Cats & Mouse block together.

This process you will need the single hour glass and square combination and (1) 9″ x 9″ square that has all ready been cut on a diagonal, giving you two right triangles.
Stitch the hour glass block combination and the (1) of the right triangles right sides together starting from the bottom of hour glass side. Then stitch the other right triangle to the other side of the hour glass combination right sides together starting from the bottom of the hour glass side again. Repeat this process for the other hour glass right triangle combination.
Press seams.
Next align and pin the seams of the longer strip of the hour glass combination to one of the hour glass right triangle combination. Press seams and repeat the process for the other side.

Once all seams are pressed cut off all dog ears on all four sides of the block.

Finally grab the (2) 4″ x 4″ squares that are cut on a diagonal.
Take each right triangle of the 4″ x 4″ squares and center them evenly to the open edges of the nearly finished Cats & Mouse block.
Pin them, stitch, and then press open.
Trim additional dog ears if needed.

Your finished product will be one finished block measuring 17 1/2″ x 17 1/2″

If there is a need to trim all of your blocks evenly don’t worry I designed these blocks so that you have a 1/4″ lead way all around to trim them down if necessary. This will give you a 17″ x 17″ square block.
Repeat the entire process for the remaining 15 blocks to make up this quilt.

Assembling the quilt

When all 16 blocks are finished, place them in alternating blue hues to your liking in four to a row then stitch each row.
Press each row seams and then start stitching each of the rows together.
Make the final presses on the rows and then start stitching the 6′ x lof border to the sides of the quilt top.
Once the quilt top is complete, layer, baste and quilt to your liking,
Then add the binding.

76″ x 76″ quilt

Thank you for stopping by the Bake Shop today!

Jennifer Overstreet
{www.ghquilting.com}

H-A-LL-O-W-EE-N Spells Halloween! Wall Hanging

Oct27

Happy Halloween everyone! Hi, I am Jennifer Overstreet from gh quilting and I whipped up this fun loving banner just in time for the frightening Halloween season. Where did I get the inspiration for this banner? In elementary school of course! My music teacher had this simple little diddy to teach us how to spell Halloween. You’ll have to forgive me because I do not remember the whole song. However, I still to this day have the choirs stuck in my head and it simply goes like this: H-A-(double) L-O…W-(double) E-N spells Halloween! And of course repeats itself. Along with ghost and goblins, and pumpkins, and spooky eyes, and scary sites…Oh my!

(1) H “owl”een layer cake designed by Deb Strain for Moda
(1/2) yard of Bella Solids Black 9900-00 or optional Bella Solids Black Layer Cake 9900LC-99
(2 1/2) yards of Purple Spiderwebs 19553-16
(1/2) yard of Black White 19557-17
(1) yard of a light fusible interfacing

Print out the six pages for the applique and template to go along with the pattern. {You can find the templates in the Printer Friendly Version at the bottom of this post.}

Please read all instructions prior to making this project!
*All seams are 1/4″ unless noted other wise!

Auditioning: is where you match up prints that will work well together ex: what you have in mind of what you think will work together just may not. I ran into this a lot on this project. Best to put them all together on a design wall/floor on how well they will play nicely before cutting and stitching!

Part One: Making the background block

From the H”owl”een layer cake choose six different 10″ squares.
Cut each square into 5 1/2″ x 9 1/2″ rectangle. Set aside the left over fabric and save for the applique or the strips for the spiderwebs.
Next cut six 4 1/2″ x 9 1/2″ rectangles from the 1/2 yardage or you can pull three 10″ squares from the Bella solids black. From the 10″ square you will get two cut rectangles measuring 4 1/2″ x 9 1/2″
Once all of your rectangles are cut take one print and one black rectangle, stitch right sides together along the 9 1/2″ seam, then press to open.
Set the six 9 1/2″ x 9 1/2″ blocks aside.

Part Two: The applique process

Take the fusible interfacing and any left over material from the printed 10″ squares or any random five to six 10 ” squares from the H”owl”een layer cake. Fuse the auditioned material by pressing with you hot iron to the interfacing with the material right side up.
Once all choice fabric is fused to the interfacing, cut out the templates that printed out in the PFD version of this pattern.
When all the templates are cut out, trace each of the Halloween letter templates with choice of writing utensil to the interfacing side of each variable 10″ square. Be sure to have each letter facing backwards for instance if you want the letter “b” to be read as a letter “b” turn the template over to trace it so it looks like a letter “d” to you. *There is no letter “b” in any of the applique for this project, its just an example!
After tracing out all the letters for the word Halloween choose which of the 9 1/2″ x 9 1/2″ block the letters will go with. Keep in mind that each of the printed side of the 9 1/2″ blocks will be opposite from each other, while the black side stays in the middle.
Once you have chosen the arrangement of letter(s) to each 9 1/2″ x 9 1/2″ block start appliqueing them to the black proportion of each block. *My applique process on this was to rough edge applique via blanket stitch by machine. Be sure to follow the rhythm of the song for each block as in HA for block one. LL for block two. O for block three. W for block four. EE for block five and N for block six. Each letter can be wonky, straight, or however you see fit to place it! Also when placing any applique pieces to the blocks, be sure that there is a 1/4″ on each side so that the applique piece is not accidentally sewn into the seam!
After appliqueing on the Halloween letters as directed to each block. Start cutting out the facial templates and audition them to any of the left over scrap 10″ squares or introduce them to new 10″ squares from the H”owl”een layer cake.
Repete the same process for the Facial templates as stated above for the Halloween letter templates.
Place each facial applique piece to your liking ( it does not have to be like mine, feel free to place them where you see them to be fit).
After all the blocks are appliqued, place them aside to start on the spiderwebs.

Part Three: Spiderwebs

From the H”owl”een layer cake you can use any left over pieces from the applique process so as long as they are still 10″ or pull few more new 10″ squares to start the strip cutting for the spiderwebs.
From various prints cut (24) strips of 2″ x 10″ and (36) strips of 1 5/8″ x 10″.

Step one: Randomly take (2) 2″ x 10″ strips and (3) 1 5/8″ x 10″ strips and sew them together by having the 2″ x 10″ strips on the out side and the 1 5/8″ x 10″ on the inside. (12) strip blocks are needed for this process.
Step two: Cut out the template and place it on top of the strips about 1/4″ away from the edge.
Step three: Place your ruler over the template for rotary cutting. Be sure that the ruler covers over the template so that you do not cut the template size down and make your first cut.
Step four: Repeat the same process for the other side of the template and save the excess scrap pieces. They will be need for later in the spiderweb process.

Step five: Turn the template so that the wider side is on top of the strip block
Step six: Repeat the process as before to make the next cut with the rotary cutter.
Step seven: Turn the template back to the same position as the first cut and repeat the process of making the final cut in the block. Remember to save the scrap pieces for later.
Step eight: Randomly select (6) different triangles for the half spiderweb block to achieve a scrappy look. Sew each triangle right sides together until it starts to look like a spiderweb bunting and then press flat to open.
Repeat the same process for the remaining (5) spiderweb blocks.

Squaring the Spiderweb Block

As indicated in the picture above: Align the center of the web on a cutting mat for an even vertical cut.
Then align your ruler on the 7″ line of your cutting mat.
Finally make the cut straight across to even out the web.
Repeat the same process for the remain (5) spiderweb blocks.

Adding the scrap pieces to the Spiderweb Blocks

Step one: Bring back the scrap pieces from the strip blocks. Place them on theend of the second triangle with the wider end towards the center of the spiderweb
Step two: With about a 1/2″ over hang on each side stitch the scrap piece to the spiderweb block right sides together.
Step three: Press open to lay flat. *It does not matter if you do this process before or after adding the applique block to the spiderweb block.

Bring back the appliqued 9 1/2″ x 9 1/2″ appliques blocks.
Center the spiderweb blocks to the black side of the 9 1/2″ x 9 1/2″ appliqued blocks.
With right sides together stitch and then press open towards the the black center.

Once the spiderweb block and the applique block are sewn together align the block on a cutting mat to square off the excess fabric from the top and bottom sides.
Then measure 5 1/2″ away from the connecting seam of the black center and the spiderweb, cut off the excess fabric at 5 1/2″. This will be a 9 1/2″ x 15 1/2″ block in all.
Repeat the same process for the remaining (5) blocks.

Part Four: Putting it all together!

Starting piecing the inner banner together with the “HA” block until the banner spells out Halloween. Make sure right sides are together when sewing blocks together.
Finished inner banner will be 15 1/2″ x 57″

Adding the boarder

From the purple spiderweb fabric cut the top and bottom borders 3″ x 20 1/2″ and set aside
Also from the purple spiderweb fabric cut the side borders 3″ x LOF or 3″ x 54 1/2″.
Add each 3″ x 54 1/2″ border strip to each of the long sides of the inner banner, square off if needed.
Then add the 3″ x 20 1/2″ borders to the top and bottom of the inner banner.

The finally!!!!

Take the finished banner to your local long arm quilter or quilt it on your own.
Attach hanging pieces via way of your method of choice to the back of the banner.
Finish off with the binding

One fun loving spooky kooky 20″x 60″

H-A-(double) L-O-W-(double) E-N Spells Halloween Banner

Thank you for stopping by and checking out my project today!

Jennifer Overstreet | {jennifer@ghquilting.com}

{www.ghquilting.com}

Today’s Tip: Cutting Mat De-Fuzz

Sep7

Today’s tip comes from Jennifer Overstreet of {www.ghquilting.com}.

All quilters know that cutting mats wear down like a well-loved pair of shoes. Jennifer has a neat tip to remove some of the fabric fuzz that gets stuck in the well-worn grooves.

Jennifer says:

Got Fabric fuzz stuck in your cutting mat from excessive rotary cutting in the same spot?

Grab a pink eraser to make it all go away! I happen to have an extremely large one from our Dollar Store.

Take your pink eraser and rub it over the fabric fuzz to lift the fuzz out of your mat.

Dust away the eraser residue and the loosen fabric fuzz

No more fabric fuzz left behind from excessive rotary cutting.

Thanks for sharing, Jennifer! Would you like to share your favorite sewing tip? Send us an email.

Happy sewing!

Today’s Tip: Binding

Jul18

We are going to share a series of sewing tips and tricks here on the Moda Bake Shop. Would you like to share your favorite sewing tip? Send us an email.

Today’s tip comes from Jennifer Overstreet of {www.ghquilting.com}.

Jennifer suggests trimming away the excess fabric at your corners when binding your quilt. This cuts down on the bulk and leaves you with a nice smooth corner. It’s especially helpful when you are working with true bias binding and curved edges.

See how Jennifer’s binding turned out on her Tea Time Quilt.

Happy sewing!

Tea Time For You & Me!

Jun4

There is always something magical about a tea party. Especially when you’re the one invited by your little one to join her while you’re in between hanging out loads of laundry on a warm summer day. The sailor bear will not mind to share his chair with you! So come on and enjoy these small moments while they last. Let me tell ya they do fly by fast!

Hi, everyone! I am Jennifer Overstreet from gh quilting. My inspiration for this project came from memories of when my daughter was little (now she is a teenager). Even though she was not the princess type (and still not) she loved to have a tea party every now and then.

With that said…

I hope that this vintage inspired quilted table cloth will put some smiles and delight into your little one’s tea party!

All seams are 1/4″ unless stated otherwise.
WOF = Width of Fabric
Please read all instructions/directions prior to assembly!

1- Layer Cake, California Girls by Fig Tree & Co.
2 1/4 yards Fresh Linen (cream) 20188-11 for Backing, Sashing, and Ice Cream Cone Dividers
1/2 yard Coral 20187-12 for Binding

Ruler needed:

Creative Grids Non-Slip 18 Degree Dresden Plate Ruler #CGR18CF

English Paper Pieced Dresden Plate Place Mats
1/2 yard Bella Solid Tea Rose (9900-89) – A light coral for Dresden plate backing and Dresden centers
Dresden plate English paper piecing templates

The Top

(26″ x 26″)

Cutting Directions:

Select 35 squares from your layer cake and cut into 2″ strips. *I did not use any double prints or solids. Best to cut layer cake by two or three layers at a time so that you do not stretch the fabric while cutting it. You will need 225 squares. Yes, you will have extras! Set the rest of the layer cake aside.
Cut strips into 2″ squares
From the 2 yards of cream fabric cut 6 – 1 1/2″ strips x WOF.
Take each strip and cut, starting from the selvedge, at 8″ increments. These strips will be your sashing, and they should measure 8″x 1 1/2″. You will end up with 24 pieces. Set aside.
From the layer cake pull the dark coral solid, and cut 3 – 1 1/2″ strips.
Take each strip and cut them down to 1 1/2-inch squares. You will need 16. These are your sashing squares. Set aside.

Assembly:

Take the 2″ x 2″- 225 plus squares and arrange them so you can see each print and colorway.
Gather 25 squares of your choice and arrange in a 5 x 5 grid to create a 25-patch block as shown below.

Stitch each square together one side at a time to make a row of five.
Press seams to one side. Then press the next row of five to the opposite side
Once you have five rows, start stitching you rows together.
When finished assembling your first block, repeat the process over again for the remaining eight blocks.

Take your finished blocks and start adding the cream sashing ( Need 4 – 8″ x 1 1/2″ strips per row) to one side of the block. It does not matter if you go up or down or left to right when starting off.
It does matter that you start with a sashing strip and then a solid block, then a sashing, then a solid block until you finish with as sashing. You will end up with 3 rows.
Take the remaining sashing (3- 8″ x 1 1/2″ strips) and the dark coral (4) 1 1/2″ x 1 1/2″ squares stitch them together by doing the same process as the blocks and sashing. On the exception it will be square then sashing, square then sashing, until you finish with a square. You will have four rows when you are finished.
Make sure to press the seams of each row in the opposite direction from the row before it.
Start stitching the rows together and then press seams open.
Set completed top aside.

Ice Cream Cone Border

Cutting Directions

Ice Cream Cone Dividers

From the remaining cream yardage, cut 2 – 5 1/2″ x WOF strips.
Starting at the selvedge, set the 18 Degree Dresden Plate Ruler (pointed end at the bottom of the fabric) so the 5 1/2″ marking on the ruler lines up with the top edge of your fabric.
Trim off and discard the small excess selvedge end (shown below).
Make your second cut on the opposite side of the ruler. The wedge you have cut will be the dividers between the ice cream cones.

To make the next cut, flip your ruler so that the pointed end is on the top of the strip. Make sure that the bottom edge is lined up with the 5 1/2″ mark on the ruler. Cut as before.
Repeat this process until you have cut 44 wedges.

Ice Cream Cones

Gather the remaining cuts from the layer cake that you used earlier to cut the 2- 2″ strips from. Each remaining layer cake piece should measure out to be 6″ x 10″ rectangle.
Cut each piece with the Dresden Plate ruler the same way you cut the ice cream cone dividers. You will only need 2 wedges from each 6″ x 10′ rectangle. Line your fabric edge up with the 6″ mark, not the 5 1/2″ mark as before. You will need 48 wedges. Set remaining layer cake pieces aside.

Making the curve on the Ice Cream Cone

Take a 6″ Dresden plate wedge (printed piece) and press it in half lengthwise.
Then take the Circle Segment Ruler from the Dresden Plate ruler set and place it on the fold of your pressed fabric, lining the center mark of the ruler up with the crease. Make sure center line of the Circle Segment ruler lines up on the fold of the wedge, and that the top of the ruler and the top of the fold line up before cutting.
Use a 28-mm rotary cutter to cut the curve. Discard the scrap edges.
Open up the ice cream cone and press.

Assembly

Take one ice cream cone and one divider.
Line the two pieces up so the tip of the divider meets the point of the curved edge of the ice cream cone (see image below).
Start stitching at the bottom curve of the ice cream cone.
Make sure that each row starts with a divider and ends with a divider.
Press seams towards the dividers. Yes, do this on both sides of the divider!

It gives the whole border balance, and keeps the bias edges in check.
Repeat the process for the remaining 3 borders.
Each border will have 11 dividers and 11 ice cream cones.

Press the 4 remaining ice cream cones in half lengthwise, and then cut them in half.
This will give you 8 halves to add to the end of each border.
Stitch each half the same way you stitched the rest of the border.

Stitching the borders to the sides of your top!
Baste, quilt as desired, and bind.
Due to the many curves, I highly recommend a bias binding and hand stitching the binding onto the back of the quilt.

Dresden Plate English Paper Piecing for Optional Place Mats

I apologize in advance for not having any instructions on how to English paper piece. Feel free to contact me for more information on where I got my English paper pieceing products and what sizes were used in this project.

If you choose to English paper piece your Dresden plates, use the remaining layer cake pieces and cut 6″ x WOF from the light coral yardage for the center of each Dresden plate. I recommend that you re-baste the petals once you remove the paper pieces. Otherwise they will fray and loose their shape.

Alternatively, you can use the Dresden Plate ruler set to make Dresden plate flower place mats. Again, use the remaining layer cake pieces.

*Note: the petals shown above are are 2 1/2″

Assembly

Once you are finished with your Dresden plates, cut 11″ x WOF from the light coral yardage.
Cut the 11″ strips into 11″ squares. You will need four 11″ squares to use as backing for your Dresden plates.
Sandwich your Dresden plate just like you would if you were making a quilt.
Stitch around each petal at the very edge. I recommend a blanket stitch or a zig zag stitch.
Then stitch around the edge of the circle or plate if you will.
Cut away the batting and backing from the outer edges.
Remove basting stitches if you paper pieced.

One Last Tip…

This is one of the tricky parts of the binding process and removing the excess from the corner is rarely ever done. In this case it is a necessity. Be sure not to cut too close to the fold or the stitching when you cut the excess out. By doing this, you will add more flexibility and remove the bulk from your finished corners.

One enchanted Tea Time table cloth measuring 38″ x 38″

Thank you for stopping by!

Jennifer Overstreet

{www.ghquilting.com}

Oh My, Shabby Butterflies! Quilt

Apr11

Oh My, Shabby Butterflies was designed with the young girl {who is not the princess type} going into her first twin bed. The rough edge applique gives these whimsical butterflies their shabby chicness. This project gives the beginner quilter a way to dip her toes into applique.

1 Twirl Layer Cake
1 White Bella Solid Layer Cake
5 yards 22176-19 (green) for inner rectangles and boarders
3 1/2 yards of 108 in wide muslin for backing
1 yard 22175-19 (rainbow strips) for binding
4 1/2 yards of one-sided fusible interfacing (light weight)
Cut out butterfly wings and bodies templates (added in the PDF of this pattern.) Must print out pattern to get them. You will have a choice of different sizes and varieties to work with.

All seams are 1/4″ unless indicated otherwise.
Please read all directions and instructions prior to constructing this quilt!
wof – Width of Fabric
lof- Length of Fabric

Quilt

Cutting Directions:

From the 5 yards of 22176-19 (green) cut into strips of 4 1/2 in x wof (19 total strips)
Cut the 4 1/2″ x wof strips into 4 1/2″ x 8 1/2″ rectangles. You will get 2 cuts per strip with a total of 4 rectangles. You will need a total of 74 rectangles.
From the remaining 5 yards of 22176-19 (green) cut 2- 10″ x lof. You should have 4- 10″ x lof strips for your boarders.
From the White Bella Solid Layer Cake cut 2- 4 1/2″ x 8 1/2″ rectangles. You will need a total of 70 rectangles.
Set aside leftover material for the scrap bin or the trash bin.

White Bella Solid Layer Cake Cutting Sample

Quilt Assembly

Take the green and white rectangles and alternate them 7 rectangles wide. Start by placing a green rectangle with right sides together with a white rectangle.
Stitch on the 4 1/2″ edge.
Make sure to press seams as you go.
Keep alternating colors until the end of the row.
The next row start with a white rectangle, stitch with right sides together with a green rectangle in the 4 1/2″ edge and alternate until the end of the row.
Keep alternating rows until you reach a total of 20 rows.
Once all 20 rows are completed, start stitching alternating rows together. Make sure right sides are together while stitching.
When center of quilt is finished add the 10″ x lof strips to all four sides. Be sure to start stitching on with the length of the quilt first. Trim off any excess material then add the width to the quilt. Trim off any access material and set quilt top aside.

Finished Quilt Top Before Butterflies

Butterflies

Choose 32 Twirl Layer Cake Squares of your liking.
Line up 2 squares side-by-side on ironing board, rights side facing down.
Take the 4 1/2 yards of single-sided interfacing and place over the squares (fused side to the fabric).
Press until fabric and interfacing are fused.
Continue adding squares until finished.

Cut out the butterfly wings and bodies template from the PDF print outs of this pattern.
Arrange desired templates on the interfacing side of each block.
Trace each desired template.
Be sure to flip templates over if you want to alternate colors to match the butterfly’s body and wings.
Cut out traced wings and bodies.

Once butterflies are arranged, start placing then on the quilt top.
It is optional to have butterflies placed where ever you want them.
Templates can be used as a guide to place butterflies anatomically correct if desired.
Once in place, pin each wing and body to the quilt top with safety pins.

If placing wings on the outside be sure to cut a curve at the end of each wing. This will give the effect that butterfly is working hard to flutter those wings!

With a darning foot, stitch each butterfly wing and body with a free motion technique.
Be sure to start with the bottom layers first.
Best to stitch around the body/wing first then go for the decorative stitching.

Once all butterflies are stitched on, prep for quilting. Quilt and bind the quilt.

One Twin size quilt 78 in x 102 in

Thank you!

Jennifer Overstreet

{ghquilting.com}

{jennifer@ghquilting.com}

All Purpose Caddy

Feb20

Hello Everyone! It’s me, Jennifer Overstreet from Gable House Quilting and Designs and I could not be more thrilled to introduce to you today my All Purpose Caddy. Why??? Because I absolutely love how it all turned out. Not to mention that this caddy was originally designed with long term hospital patients in mind. I will get more into that story on my blog. What is so great about this caddy is that it can be used for anyone and it has a wonderful bonus for any stitching crafter in mind. The removable Sand Pouch will not only keep the caddy in place it will also keep your pins sharp too! Got to love that! Another thing to love about this caddy is the pocket space. The front pocket has four slots to keep small electronic devices, eyeglasses or small stitchery items. The second pocket has two slots for note pads and what not. Lastly the third pocket is just one big opening for whatever you need. I happen to put my sketch book and Moda Bake Shop’s Fresh Fabric Treats book in there! Pretty neat right?! Did I also mention that this tutorial is written for ambitious beginner and up? Well it is! So give it a go and have fun!

One Charm pack – Reunion by Sweetwater
2 yards of #5476-13 -Reunion collection by Sweetwater
1/2 yard of Grip Stop or Jiffy Grip
Foundation paper for paper piecing
Wright’s Double Fold Bias Tape Binding
A small funnel
Children’s play sand
Painter’s tape
Safety pins
Marking tools
Batting and thread

Nothing fancy just patience and understanding.

This tutorial is very picture heavy. Plus it is also a quilt as you go project.

Cutting Directions:

From the Grip Stop or Jiffy Grip, you will need to cut the material 18 inches x 4 1/2 inches

From the Wright’s Double Fold Bias Tape Binding, measure and cut 3 pieces 18 inches long.

From the 2 yards of fabric you will need:

1- 7 1/2 inch x wof for the first pocket backing and second pocket front
2- 11 1/2 inch x wof for the second pocket backing and the third pocket’s front and back.
Each of these cuts will be needed to be cut on to the fold line for each individual pocket piece.

For the Main piece you will need to cut 21 inches x wof. You will then measure 4 1/2 inch away from the fold line. Cut lengthwise and save the folded piece. You will need this for later on in the project.

What you will have remaining is two 16 1/2 inches x 17 inches (ignore the photo on the 17 1/2 inch) pieces for you main piece. Refer to photo below for a visual.

Binding will need to be cut 3 inches wide instead of the normal 2 1/2 inches. Binding will also need to be 70 inches long.

This photo below is a reference of all the pieces you will need before the final assembly.

Let’s Begin!

*All photos go from left to right and top to bottom. Refer to all photos below the instructions for a better understanding of this project.

All seams are 1/4 inch unless indicated!

Print out both paper-piecing sets x 2 and cut out the paper piecing templates. Set aside. You will have two different set sizes from the printable version of this pattern. Sizes are: 7 1/2 inch x 5 inch and 3 1/2 inch x 5 inch Make sure you are using the paper foundation for all the paper piecing.
Open your charm pack and separate into like colorways. Choose 20 different charm squares of your choosing.
Take all 20 charm squares and cut them into 1 1/2 inch strips. Then organize them so they will be easy to coordinate while you assemble your paper piecing.
Bring back your cut out paper pieces and start coordinating your 1 1/2 inch strips onto the paper pieces. *Any paper pieces with the HST/HSR markings on them will need to be placed face down. Do not piece the 1 1/2 inch strips on the HST/HSR marked side.
Organize the rest of the 1 1/2 inch on the remaining paper pieces to your liking.
When finished organizing with all the paper pieces, you will need to gather 17- 1 1/2 inch strips that remain from your all ready cut charm squares. Sew them together lengthwise and press seams as you go. This will not have to be paper pieced! When finished stitching this together you should have a 17 inch x 4 1/2 inch piece. This is your topside to the main piece of the caddy.

Paper Piecing:

This will be done for all of your prearranged strips that are on your paper foundations that you already have organized.

Place the first strip on the end of your foundation piece.
Take the second strip and place it on top of the first strip, right sides together.
Stitch on the inside of the paper piece.
After stitching open and press.
Add the next 1 1/2 inch strip and place it on top of the second 1 1/2 inch strip, again right side together and stitch along the inside. Open and press.
Repeat the following for all your paper piecing.

Half Square Rectangle (HSR) Assembly
Example shown is the 3 1/2 inch x 5 inch HSR.

You will need a plain HSR back and a marked HSR piece of your choosing.
With right sides together, leave the plain HSR face up and place the marked HSR from corner to corner
Stitch on each of the outer marked lines
Cut the center with a rotary cutter or scissors
You should have two HSR
Open and press
Repeat the process for all your HSR’s

HSR Line up Assembly

Again using the 3 1/2 inch x 5 inch HSR as an example.

Align the coordinating HSR’s to your liking
Stitch on the length sides
Check your work!
Remove the paper piecing
Repeat the same process for the 7 1/2 inch x 5 inch HSR’s

*Something that I did not have pictured is the piecing of the second pocket. Make sure you take the 3 1/2 inch x 17 inch HSR strip and sew it to the length of one of the 7 1/2 x wof pieces. Make sure right sides are together before stitching.

The Quilting Process

You will need all material pieces for Pockets #1, #2, and #3. You will also need the 17 inch x 4 1/2 inch Top Side strip, painter’s tape, safety pins, batting, and some kind of marking tool. *I use a Strait Line tool aka: a chalk line.

Match the front pocket to the remaining 7 1/2 inch x wof
Take one of the 11 1/2 inch piece for the backing of the second pocket
Take two 11 1/2 inch pieces for the third pocket
Use the remaining 11 1/2 inch piece for the top side piece.

Step One: Basting

Example is of Pocket 1.

Take the backing and place it onto a smooth clean surface.
Grab the painter’s tape and place a piece on each corner of the backing. Make sure to stretch the material just slightly from one corner to the other for full smoothness of the material.
Place the batting over the backing.
Grab the painter’s tape again and place a piece of painter’s tape onto each corner. Again make sure to stretch the batting just slightly from one corner to the other for smoothness and full usage of the batting.
Place the pocket top piece on top of the batting.
Pin all three piece together with the safety pins
When finished pinning remove the painter’s tape from the batting and backing.
Set piece a side and repeat the process for the remaining pockets.

Step Two: Marking and Quilting:

Example is of Pocket 2 and the top side piece.

The way I mark my quilts for quilting is by using a Strait Line tool that can be found in any hardware store.

I open up the Strait Line by pulling the hook and string/line and place it to something that it can catch on to. I then find a heavy object to place on top of the hook.
I then take the Strait Line and line it up in the center of my quilt top as evenly possible for a straight line marking.
Once the line is centered, I then take the Strait Line housing and pull slightly so that the line its self is tight. I then lift up the line and let it snap onto the material. By doing this you will have a marking line to start your straight quilting. You will only need to do this one time on each piece.
To start quilting: Make sure that you have your walking foot on and line up your Strait Line mark to your needle. Start stitching from one side to the other.
To continue quilting, line up your walking foot to the last stitched line and use it as your guide for your next quilted straight line. Repeat this process until you reach the edge of the quilt top.
Since I start my quilting from the center of my quilt top. I will quilt one side and then start on the other. I do not alternate sides. I just simply roll my piece for easy flow through my machine.
Once done with all the quilting to this point square pockets and top side off. All pieces should be 17 inches wide. You will have one more piece to quilt before you are done.

Top Side and Main Piece Assembly

You will need the 4 1/2 inch x 18 inch grip stop piece, the top side piece, and the two 16 1/2 inch x 17 inch pieces. You will also need painter’s tape, batting and safety pins.

Step One: The Grip Stop and Top Side

Take the grip stop piece and measure width wise to 13 inches. Cut at 13 inches on the length. This should give you a 13 in piece and a 5 inch piece.
On the length side of each piece fold over one time 1/4 of an inch and pin.
Stitch a 1/4 inch seam across the folded edges. Remove pins as you go. *Best to keep the gripper side up and to use your walking foot.
Take your quilted top side and place it back side up. Place the 5 inch grip stop on top of the topside, gripper side facing up. Then place the 13 inch grip stop on top of the top side, again gripper side facing up. Make sure that both of the 1/4 inch seams are over lapping each other.
Stitch width wise on one side of the entire piece, remove pins as you go. Open and keep one pin in to maintain the 1/4 inch edges together.

Step Two: Attaching the Top Side to the Main Piece

With your open Top Side, place one of the 16 1/2 inch x 17 inch pieces on top of each side, pin and stitch. Make sure that you are stitching with the width of the 17 inches to both sides (the grip stop side and the quilted top side).
After stitching both pieces together fold the over the top side and main piece so that they are one piece.
Stitch along the bottom of the top side. This creates the pocket opening for the sand pouch.
Prepare main piece for quilting. Repeat the same process as for the pockets. With the exception of starting your quilting guide from the seams (bottom) of the Top Side, stitch and work your way down to the end.

Sand Pouch Assembly

You will need the folded 4 1/2 inch x 17 inch cut away piece that you cut from the main piece. *Make sure you backstitch all your stitches on this piece!

Make sure the right side of the fabric is folded together so that you see the wrong side of the fabric when you start stitching.
Start at the fold and stitch starting length wise about 1 1/2 inch and then stop.
Lift up your foot and needle, move the piece down to make a 1 inch opening. Place needle and foot back down and continue to start stitching.
When you get to a corner lift your foot up pivot the piece. Then lift your foot down and continue stitching. Repeat for the process for the next corner.
Clip all four corners.

Turn the sand pouch with the right side of the fabric facing out.
Then take a thin rod and gently poke out the corners for pointed edges/corners. (I realize that the photos are switched around in this process. My apologies!)
Take a small funnel and place it in the 1 in opening.
Hold funnel and pouch while pouring sand into the funnel.
Fill the pouch half way to 3/4 full. But do not fill it all the way. The sand pouch will not fit into the top side if it is completely full. Plus you have to close the opening.
You can either hand stitch the opening or machine stitch the opening. If machine stitching use a zig zag stitch on the opening edge of the sand pouch.
Since sand can hold moisture, place the sand pouch in a warm dry area of your living space. This will take a couple of days to dry.

Adding the Wright’s Double Fold Bias Tape Binding

You will need the 3 – 18 inch cut Wright’s Double Fold Bias Tape Binding for Pockets #1, #2, and #3.

Add the Wright’s Double Fold Bias Tape Binding to the top of each pocket.
Bind as you normally would bind you entire quilt.
If you have never used Wright’s Double Fold Bias Tape Binding before you can refer to my tutorial page on my blog.
Clip off the excess ends of the binding.

Pocket Assembly

Make sure that all pockets are lined up at the bottom before stitching!

Take Pocket #1 and place it on top of Pocket #2. Pin pockets together.
Stitch in the ditch of the first seam and the third seam of Pocket #1. Do not exceed past the binding and make sure to back stitch at the binding.
Take the stitched together Pocket # 1 and Pocket #2 and place that on top of Pocket #3. Pin pockets together.
Stitch in the ditch of the second seam of Pocket # 1 and Pocket #2 aka: the middle. Stop at Pocket #2’s binding and back stitch.
Place the completed stitched pockets and place them on top of the main piece and pin. Make sure the pockets line up on the bottom of the main piece and the main piece and top side are facing right side up.

Finishing Touches

Bind the entire caddy together (I opted out on machine stitching the entire caddy).
Place the dried Sand Pouch through the opening of the Grip Stop.
Once Sand Pouch is tucked into place distribute the sand in the pouch evenly for better support.

This is what your finished caddy should look like when you are done.

In the end you will have a caddy that has great pocket space and can be placed nearly any where in the home. Not to mention it can hold a fair amount of weight too. It is also a nice must have for long term hospital patients who do not have a ton of room to keep small things stashed away in. Or better yet with the use of the sand pouch as a pincushion you can use it too.

One All Purpose Caddy that measures 20 inches x 17 inches.

If you have any questions or concerns please email me or refer to my blog where I have tutorials, helpful hints, and of course a design blunders page.

Thanks all and I hope you enjoyed this tutorial!

Jennifer Overstreet
{ghquilting.com}
{ghquilting@hotmail.com}

A Salute to You in that Blue Star Banner

Dec4

Blue Star Banner

Featuring:

Roger E.Overstreet Jr

United States Navy

Desert Storm: The Persian Gulf War

Double Blue Star Banner

Featuring:

Charles N. Wohlever

United States Navy

World War II

Ronald L. Jones

United States Army

Vietnam War

Fallen Hero’s Star Banner

Featuring:

Eugene V. Jones

United States Army

World War II

I want to take a moment of silence to thank those who have sacrificed their lives for our freedom. And also for those who have served in the past and have past away.

*Break for silence*

Now I want to thank all of you who are still serving to keep us free. Without your everyday efforts, we would not to be able to live like we do and for all your sacrifices; again thank you!

Hello every one I am Jennifer Overstreet from Gable House Sewing and I know I am a bit late on delivering this for Veteran’s Day but better late than never. What I have for you today is a personalized blue star banner. I have seen other quilted blue star banners done up before but I have never seen anyone use photos of their loved ones in them.

What’s a blue star banner? It is a banner signifying a loved one who has served in the armed forces overseas. The banner started in World War I, but was more heavily used during World War II. Would you believe it was started and adopted right here in my home state of Ohio? To find out more information about it go here to the American Legion Website.

Before we begin I am going to warn that this star is not for a beginner! If you are an ambitious beginner, please seek help from a experienced quilter.

Lets get started!

One Prairie Paisley II Layer cake by Minick and Simpson
1/2 yard of Blue Stars 147391 5
1/2 yard of Cream 147401 3
One package of photo fabric of choice
One Dowel Rod 1/2 inch round

*Fat quarters will work out good for the star too, especially if you are making just one banner

One half yard of medium to thin cording
One package of small tassels
One dose of patients and understanding because stars are typically made from a square base. Not a rectangle!

Measurements:

*Use 1/4 inch inseams unless indicated.

Star

One photo fabric picture printed at 4 in x 6 in. Cut photo 4 1/2 in x 6 1/2 in.
Please follow the manufacturer’s instructions prior to printing.
*Some photo fabric products are dry clean only

For each blue star banner choose one dark blue, one light blue, and one cream 10-inch square from the layer cake.

For the fallen hero banner choose two dark cream color ways with different prints and a light cream or white for the background color.

4 – 3 1/2 in x 3 1/2 in squares in cream or white
Cut material from the attached templates in the printable version
You will need two large (6.5) dark blues cut and two small (4.5) dark blues cut from the template
You will need two large (6.5) lite blued and two small (4.5) blues from the template
You will also need to cute two cream/white from the larger (6.5) and two cream/white from the smaller (4.5) template

Borders, Backing and Binding

From one of the 1/2 yards cut:

2 – 4 1/2 in x wof for top and bottom border
2 – 2 1/2 in x wof for side borders
If using two stars in one banner cut 2 1/2 in x wof strip to be placed in between the two star blocks. This will be for the double star banner.
Cut a 2 1/2 in x 14 in strip of fabric for rod holders.
Use what is leftover for backing and binding. I typically piece my backing.

Pull out various reds from the layer cake for the red border. Cut the various choices of reds into 2 1/2 inch strips. You should get four strips per 10-inch square.

First print and cut out the templates included in the Printer Friendly Version. Don’t fret, this is not a paper-piecing project. I had to go back and revise my original design. The templates are to be used like a clothing pattern. So what you see in my banners is the original design not the revised edition.
Once templates are printed and cut out, place templates according to the colors indicated.
Make sure the template is faced right up with the right side of fabric placed directly underneath the template.
Using a fabric pencil trace around the templates as many times according to the directions above.
From the cream template there are two small dots on each corner of the template. Mark those dots onto the cream material.

With dots in place on the cream material, place the light blue piece right side down with the bottom edge on the dot. (Note that the picture below is from my first design not the revised template.)
Once in place stitch pieces together.

Next check how straight your pieces turned out. If the light blue piece is not straight on both sides it will throw your whole star off. This blue triangle is the key to making or ruining your star.

Once you have the cream and the light blue side perfected, line up the bottom of dark blue triangle on the other small dot.
Stitch and fold back to check your work.
If everything is even and measures out correctly (2- 4 1/2 in x 3 in) and (2- 6 1/2 in x 3 in) clip the edges or ears.

Okay that was the toughest part of this whole project! Now you can breath!

Start assembling the rest of this star and banner.

Time to take the 3 1/2 in x 3 1/2 in squares, and the star sides you just created and the photo of your loved one. Sew everything according to the arrows in picture one. Press your seams outward to the darker fabric.
Sew your two remaining edges according to the arrows in picture two.

3. Picture three is what your completed block should look like and measure out to be an 8 in x 10 in star. Also don’t forget to square off the block too if needed!
4. In picture four, add the 4 1/2 in x wof to each of the top and bottom sides of the block. Then add the 2 1/2 in x wof to the sides of the block. Again press seams towards the darker fabric.

Before adding the red border, you will need to take the red strips and arrange them around the banner edges. Then stitch them together. The result will be 4- 2 1/2 in x wof strips.

5. When you have all of your red borders ready stitch the top and bottom on first and press seams towards the red side. Finally stitch on the two remain sides and press seams towards the red sides again.
6. One completed single blue star banner top.

If you are going to make a double or more star banner, everything stays the same with the exception of adding more length to the sides and adding a 2 1/2 in x wof strip in between each block.

Now for the finishing touches!

Grab that 2 1/2 in x 14 in strip of fabric and press on each side 1/4 in towards the fabric.
Stitch along the pressed seams.
Then cut down into 3 1/2 in strips.

When you have your backing, quilting and binding done, take two of the 3 1/2 in strips and fold them in half wrong sides together. Place each strip near the top corners of the banner.
Slip the rough edges between the binding and backing. Leave the now loop in to be stitch into place.
Once you are finished stitching your binding and the loop into place. Hand stitch the bottom of the loop to the backing. Be careful not to get your stitches through to the topside.

Take the dowel rod and have it cut down to size of the banner.
Then place the dowel rod in between the loops
Take the cording and stitch into a loop that will fit around the dowel rod and repeat for the other side.
Add tassels if desired and you are done.

One or a few personalized Blue or Bronze Star Banners

Single star banner measures out to be 16 in wide x 21 in long
Double star banner measures out to be 16 in wide x 34 in long

Thanks all!

And again thank you for all of you who do serve our country.
Also if you have any problems with this star please let me know or see under my tabs on my page of Design Blunders.

Jennifer Overstreet

{Gable House Quilting and Designs}
ghquilting@hotmail.com