- One Charm pack – Reunion by Sweetwater
- 2 yards of #5476-13 -Reunion collection by Sweetwater
- 1/2 yard of Grip Stop or Jiffy Grip
- Foundation paper for paper piecing
- Wright’s Double Fold Bias Tape Binding
- A small funnel
- Children’s play sand
- Painter’s tape
- Safety pins
- Marking tools
- Batting and thread
Nothing fancy just patience and understanding.
This tutorial is very picture heavy. Plus it is also a quilt as you go project.
From the Grip Stop or Jiffy Grip, you will need to cut the material 18 inches x 4 1/2 inches
From the Wright’s Double Fold Bias Tape Binding, measure and cut 3 pieces 18 inches long.
From the 2 yards of fabric you will need:
1- 7 1/2 inch x wof for the first pocket backing and second pocket front
2- 11 1/2 inch x wof for the second pocket backing and the third pocket’s front and back.
Each of these cuts will be needed to be cut on to the fold line for each individual pocket piece.
For the Main piece you will need to cut 21 inches x wof. You will then measure 4 1/2 inch away from the fold line. Cut lengthwise and save the folded piece. You will need this for later on in the project.
What you will have remaining is two 16 1/2 inches x 17 inches (ignore the photo on the 17 1/2 inch) pieces for you main piece. Refer to photo below for a visual.
Binding will need to be cut 3 inches wide instead of the normal 2 1/2 inches. Binding will also need to be 70 inches long.
This photo below is a reference of all the pieces you will need before the final assembly.
*All photos go from left to right and top to bottom. Refer to all photos below the instructions for a better understanding of this project.
All seams are 1/4 inch unless indicated!
- Print out both paper-piecing sets x 2 and cut out the paper piecing templates. Set aside. You will have two different set sizes from the printable version of this pattern. Sizes are: 7 1/2 inch x 5 inch and 3 1/2 inch x 5 inch Make sure you are using the paper foundation for all the paper piecing.
- Open your charm pack and separate into like colorways. Choose 20 different charm squares of your choosing.
- Take all 20 charm squares and cut them into 1 1/2 inch strips. Then organize them so they will be easy to coordinate while you assemble your paper piecing.
- Bring back your cut out paper pieces and start coordinating your 1 1/2 inch strips onto the paper pieces. *Any paper pieces with the HST/HSR markings on them will need to be placed face down. Do not piece the 1 1/2 inch strips on the HST/HSR marked side.
- Organize the rest of the 1 1/2 inch on the remaining paper pieces to your liking.
- When finished organizing with all the paper pieces, you will need to gather 17- 1 1/2 inch strips that remain from your all ready cut charm squares. Sew them together lengthwise and press seams as you go. This will not have to be paper pieced! When finished stitching this together you should have a 17 inch x 4 1/2 inch piece. This is your topside to the main piece of the caddy.
This will be done for all of your prearranged strips that are on your paper foundations that you already have organized.
- Place the first strip on the end of your foundation piece.
- Take the second strip and place it on top of the first strip, right sides together.
- Stitch on the inside of the paper piece.
- After stitching open and press.
- Add the next 1 1/2 inch strip and place it on top of the second 1 1/2 inch strip, again right side together and stitch along the inside. Open and press.
- Repeat the following for all your paper piecing.
Half Square Rectangle (HSR) Assembly
Example shown is the 3 1/2 inch x 5 inch HSR.
- You will need a plain HSR back and a marked HSR piece of your choosing.
- With right sides together, leave the plain HSR face up and place the marked HSR from corner to corner
- Stitch on each of the outer marked lines
- Cut the center with a rotary cutter or scissors
- You should have two HSR
- Open and press
- Repeat the process for all your HSR’s
HSR Line up Assembly
Again using the 3 1/2 inch x 5 inch HSR as an example.
- Align the coordinating HSR’s to your liking
- Stitch on the length sides
- Check your work!
- Remove the paper piecing
- Repeat the same process for the 7 1/2 inch x 5 inch HSR’s
*Something that I did not have pictured is the piecing of the second pocket. Make sure you take the 3 1/2 inch x 17 inch HSR strip and sew it to the length of one of the 7 1/2 x wof pieces. Make sure right sides are together before stitching.
The Quilting Process
You will need all material pieces for Pockets #1, #2, and #3. You will also need the 17 inch x 4 1/2 inch Top Side strip, painter’s tape, safety pins, batting, and some kind of marking tool. *I use a Strait Line tool aka: a chalk line.
- Match the front pocket to the remaining 7 1/2 inch x wof
- Take one of the 11 1/2 inch piece for the backing of the second pocket
- Take two 11 1/2 inch pieces for the third pocket
- Use the remaining 11 1/2 inch piece for the top side piece.
Step One: Basting
Example is of Pocket 1.
- Take the backing and place it onto a smooth clean surface.
- Grab the painter’s tape and place a piece on each corner of the backing. Make sure to stretch the material just slightly from one corner to the other for full smoothness of the material.
- Place the batting over the backing.
- Grab the painter’s tape again and place a piece of painter’s tape onto each corner. Again make sure to stretch the batting just slightly from one corner to the other for smoothness and full usage of the batting.
- Place the pocket top piece on top of the batting.
- Pin all three piece together with the safety pins
- When finished pinning remove the painter’s tape from the batting and backing.
- Set piece a side and repeat the process for the remaining pockets.
Step Two: Marking and Quilting:
Example is of Pocket 2 and the top side piece.
The way I mark my quilts for quilting is by using a Strait Line tool that can be found in any hardware store.
- I open up the Strait Line by pulling the hook and string/line and place it to something that it can catch on to. I then find a heavy object to place on top of the hook.
- I then take the Strait Line and line it up in the center of my quilt top as evenly possible for a straight line marking.
- Once the line is centered, I then take the Strait Line housing and pull slightly so that the line its self is tight. I then lift up the line and let it snap onto the material. By doing this you will have a marking line to start your straight quilting. You will only need to do this one time on each piece.
- To start quilting: Make sure that you have your walking foot on and line up your Strait Line mark to your needle. Start stitching from one side to the other.
- To continue quilting, line up your walking foot to the last stitched line and use it as your guide for your next quilted straight line. Repeat this process until you reach the edge of the quilt top.
- Since I start my quilting from the center of my quilt top. I will quilt one side and then start on the other. I do not alternate sides. I just simply roll my piece for easy flow through my machine.
- Once done with all the quilting to this point square pockets and top side off. All pieces should be 17 inches wide. You will have one more piece to quilt before you are done.
Top Side and Main Piece Assembly
You will need the 4 1/2 inch x 18 inch grip stop piece, the top side piece, and the two 16 1/2 inch x 17 inch pieces. You will also need painter’s tape, batting and safety pins.
Step One: The Grip Stop and Top Side
- Take the grip stop piece and measure width wise to 13 inches. Cut at 13 inches on the length. This should give you a 13 in piece and a 5 inch piece.
- On the length side of each piece fold over one time 1/4 of an inch and pin.
- Stitch a 1/4 inch seam across the folded edges. Remove pins as you go. *Best to keep the gripper side up and to use your walking foot.
- Take your quilted top side and place it back side up. Place the 5 inch grip stop on top of the topside, gripper side facing up. Then place the 13 inch grip stop on top of the top side, again gripper side facing up. Make sure that both of the 1/4 inch seams are over lapping each other.
- Stitch width wise on one side of the entire piece, remove pins as you go. Open and keep one pin in to maintain the 1/4 inch edges together.
With your open Top Side, place one of the 16 1/2 inch x 17 inch pieces on top of each side, pin and stitch. Make sure that you are stitching with the width of the 17 inches to both sides (the grip stop side and the quilted top side).
After stitching both pieces together fold the over the top side and main piece so that they are one piece.
Stitch along the bottom of the top side. This creates the pocket opening for the sand pouch.
Prepare main piece for quilting. Repeat the same process as for the pockets. With the exception of starting your quilting guide from the seams (bottom) of the Top Side, stitch and work your way down to the end.
Sand Pouch Assembly
You will need the folded 4 1/2 inch x 17 inch cut away piece that you cut from the main piece. *Make sure you backstitch all your stitches on this piece!
- Make sure the right side of the fabric is folded together so that you see the wrong side of the fabric when you start stitching.
- Start at the fold and stitch starting length wise about 1 1/2 inch and then stop.
- Lift up your foot and needle, move the piece down to make a 1 inch opening. Place needle and foot back down and continue to start stitching.
- When you get to a corner lift your foot up pivot the piece. Then lift your foot down and continue stitching. Repeat for the process for the next corner.
- Clip all four corners.
- Turn the sand pouch with the right side of the fabric facing out.
- Then take a thin rod and gently poke out the corners for pointed edges/corners. (I realize that the photos are switched around in this process. My apologies!)
- Take a small funnel and place it in the 1 in opening.
- Hold funnel and pouch while pouring sand into the funnel.
- Fill the pouch half way to 3/4 full. But do not fill it all the way. The sand pouch will not fit into the top side if it is completely full. Plus you have to close the opening.
- You can either hand stitch the opening or machine stitch the opening. If machine stitching use a zig zag stitch on the opening edge of the sand pouch.
- Since sand can hold moisture, place the sand pouch in a warm dry area of your living space. This will take a couple of days to dry.
Adding the Wright’s Double Fold Bias Tape Binding
You will need the 3 – 18 inch cut Wright’s Double Fold Bias Tape Binding for Pockets #1, #2, and #3.
- Add the Wright’s Double Fold Bias Tape Binding to the top of each pocket.
- Bind as you normally would bind you entire quilt.
- If you have never used Wright’s Double Fold Bias Tape Binding before you can refer to my tutorial page on my blog.
- Clip off the excess ends of the binding.
- Take Pocket #1 and place it on top of Pocket #2. Pin pockets together.
- Stitch in the ditch of the first seam and the third seam of Pocket #1. Do not exceed past the binding and make sure to back stitch at the binding.
- Take the stitched together Pocket # 1 and Pocket #2 and place that on top of Pocket #3. Pin pockets together.
- Stitch in the ditch of the second seam of Pocket # 1 and Pocket #2 aka: the middle. Stop at Pocket #2’s binding and back stitch.
- Place the completed stitched pockets and place them on top of the main piece and pin. Make sure the pockets line up on the bottom of the main piece and the main piece and top side are facing right side up.
- Bind the entire caddy together (I opted out on machine stitching the entire caddy).
- Place the dried Sand Pouch through the opening of the Grip Stop.
- Once Sand Pouch is tucked into place distribute the sand in the pouch evenly for better support.
In the end you will have a caddy that has great pocket space and can be placed nearly any where in the home. Not to mention it can hold a fair amount of weight too. It is also a nice must have for long term hospital patients who do not have a ton of room to keep small things stashed away in. Or better yet with the use of the sand pouch as a pincushion you can use it too.
If you have any questions or concerns please email me or refer to my blog where I have tutorials, helpful hints, and of course a design blunders page.
Thanks all and I hope you enjoyed this tutorial!