Ruby’s Party Bag


I’m very excited  to be posting over here at the Moda Bake Shop, it’s been awhile.  I’m so in love with this fabric by Bonnie and Camille, I couldn’t wait to get my hands on it.  Come visit me over at my blog for a chance to win some of this super cute fabric for yourself!  Our Cozy Nest

3 Fat Eighths  (or 3 –  9″ x 22″ pieces of coordinating fabric)
1/2 yard of fast to fuse fusible interfacing or a similar stiff interfacing
Pattern Pieces – included in Printer Friendly Version at bottom of post.


Step One:  Pick three of your favorite coordinating pieces from your fat eighth bundle. Not easy to do since they are all so dang cute!

Step two:  Decide which piece of fabric you want to use for the body of your bag.  Iron it onto the fusible interfacing.

Step three:  Cut out pattern pieces, trace onto fabric, and cut out. You will need to cut two purse pieces.   The pattern for the sides and bottom of the purse will need to be traced and then flipped over and traced again on the other side since the fabric will be too stiff to fold.

Here is what you should have:

Step 4 – Do the same thing in step three for the lining of the bag.  Note – Be sure and layout your pattern pieces so you have that extra fabric on the right side.  This piece of fabric will be used for the “binding” at the top of the purse.  You will need to make sure there is 1 1/4″ of extra fabric on the right side.

Step 5 – Lay one of the purse pattern pieces down with print side up.  Lay your piece for the sides and bottom on top of it with the print side down (like in picture below).  Starting on the right side, begin sewing the two together, making sure to back stitch at the beginning and end.  Note:  Use 1/4″ seam allowance on the entire project unless noted otherwise.  I’m not much of a pinner and honestly this fabric is going to be so stiff, I’m not sure you could pin it.

I just sew a little at a time, sort of curving the sidepiece to the fabric piece as you go.  I kept my needle down when I lifted up the presser foot to move the fabric.

Step 6 – Now sew the other side of the purse on starting on the right side again.  Don’t worry too much about having to bend and move the fabric, I just used an iron when I was finished to smooth it out.

When you’re done sewing the body of the bag together, trim the edges of the bag down to about 1/8″.  
Follow steps 5 and 6 for the lining of the bag.  Turn your bag (not the lining) right side out and place the lining inside so that wrong sides are together.  Stitch the two together by sewing around the top of your bag using a 1/4″ (or a little less) seam allowance. It’s embarrassing that it took me a while to figure this out, but it’s much easier to do this if you remove the extension table from your machine (that blue plate you see on mine).

Step 7 – Make the ruffle for the top of the purse.  Out of you third coordinating piece of fabric, cut a strip of fabric that measures 2 1/2″ wide by 22″ long.  Iron the fabric in half with the print on the outside. If the raw edges on the end of the ruffle bother you, just fold it over 1/4″ before ironing it in half lengthwise and stitch. To make the ruffle I just sew along the length  of the fabric (raw edges on the inside) and about every  3/4″ make a pleat by folding the fabric up about 1/4″ inch and then back down again.  The picture below shows it much better than I can explain it.  When you are done making the ruffle, sew it to the top of your bag. Finished off the edges by overlapping the two ends about 1/2″.

Step 8 – Making the bag handle.  Cut a piece of fabric that is approximately 2″ x 11″ out of the same fabric as your ruffle.  Iron the strip of fabric in half, unfold and then iron the outside edges into the center like pictured below.  Iron back in half (should be 1/2″ wide) and stitch 1/8″ in on both sides.

Step 9 – Pin handle to purse like pictured below and tack into place.

Step 10 – Binding around top of bag.  I apologize for this very poor picture, I couldn’t get my flash to work. I did this the same way I would bind a quilt.  This is where you will use that little 1 1/4″ wide piece of fabric that you saved from the lining.  You will need to sew the two pieces together end to end, it should be about 16″ inches long although you wont need nearly that much. Iron fabric in half lengthwise and then unfold and iron one side into the center (just like you did for the handle, but only one side).

Sew onto the top of your bag by placing the side of the binding that is not folded onto the top of your bag with print side down.  Fold the very edge of the binding over about 1/4″ to give the edge a finished look.  Sew around entire opening of bag and when you get to the end,  overlap the pieces 1/2″ to 1″ folding the very end over 1/4″ before stitching down.  Now the fun part (at least to me).  Fold binding over onto the inside of bag an hand stitch down.  If your bag is wrinkly when you’re done, take a hand towel and wrap it around your hand.  Put your wrapped hand inside of the bag and apply a warm iron to outside of bag until you are happy with how it looks.
 

One super cute party bag, for your little princess!

Nicole Willmore

Spring T-Shirt Tutorial



White t-shirt
3 – different strips of fabric from a Honey Bun
3 – different 3 x 3″ fabrics
3 – buttons
needle and thread


From your three honey bun strips, iron in half length wise.

Pick three coordinating pieces of fabric.

Cut 1 – 3 x 3″ square out of each fabric. (This really does not need to be out of matching fabric, because you wont see it.)

Draw 3 different size circles on each of them. The sizes of the circles are 1 1/2″, 1 1/4″ and 1″. I found that the tops and bottoms of medicine bottles worked great.

Fold the edge of your fabric over onto the back about 1/4″ and start sewing. It’s hard to tell from the picture but the stitching is on the very edge of the fabric, only about 1/8″ in. Note – the raw edges of the fabric are on the inside touching the circle, and the fold is on the outside.

Sew a little less than 1/2″ and then stop. Raise your presser foot and do a 1/4″ pleat as close to the front of the presser foot as you can get. Sew until you’ve done 2 or 3 stitches in the pleat and then repeat, keeping fabric on the outside of the circle.

It should start looking like this.

Keep repeating until you’ve gone completely around the circle and about 1/2″ over the start of the circle. Now start working your way inwards. Start moving the fabric in about 1/4″ or less and keep repeating the pleats. Do this until you reach the inside of the circle and the majority or all of the background fabric is covered.
When you reach the inside of the circle and you’re ready to finish cut the fabric about 1/4″ from the end and tuck if under and stitch. Remember the middle doesn’t need to look perfect because it will have a button, and that button can be as big as you want it. 🙂

Not the greatest picture, but your flower should resemble this.

Now cut the excess fabric off of the back, around the stitching.

Sew a button onto the front of the flower. Place the flowers where you want them on the t-shirt and pin. With a needle and matching thread start sewing the flowers onto the t-shirt. Note – at first I did this with the knots on the inside of the shirt, but on the others I made I put the knots on the flowers, and tried to cover them by stitching them in between the rows. I was worried the knots would bother my daughter when they rubbed against her skin.


One super cute Spring / Easter T-shirt for your favorite little girl!
Come over and visit me at my blog – Our Cozy Nest, I’m having a little giveaway!

Gobble Gobble Table Topper and Table Runner


This tutorial makes one Table Runner that measures 17 x 40 inches, and one Table Topper that measures 32 x 32 inches square. I’ve always loved scalloped edges so I decided to give it a try, and it was actually easier than I had anticipated. I love fall decorations like this because you can leave it out for 2 or three months!

Gobble Gobble Layer Cake

Borders – Brown – 1/4 yard of coordinating fabric
Cream – 1 yard of coordinating fabric

Bias Binding – I purchased 3/4 yards of coordinating fabric for this but I’m sure you could get away with less. I know there are tricks to getting away with way less, but I just cut them into strips on the bias and stitched them together, even then there was a lot left over.

Back – 1 1/2 yards of coordinating fabric
Batting – 1 1/2 yards (I used a 45″ batting similar to warm and natural.)

Step 1 – Pick 14 of your favorite pieces from the layer cake and cut them each into three, 3 1/4 inch strips. If I had to do it over again I probably would have used more of the layer cake squares and not worried so much about wasting them. I would definitely consider cutting up 2 or 3 more squares.

Step 2 – Once you have cut each of your 14 squares into 3 1/4 inch strips place them in piles of three, with each pile having three different pieces.

Step 3 – Sew each pile of three strips together.


Step 4 – Cut into three 3 1/4 inch strips like shown.


Step 5 – Arrange your strips on your floor or a big table how you want them too look. I didn’t want any pattern at all. I tried to make sure that no two fabrics that had the same design were by each other. For the table runner you will need to arrange twelve squares by 3 squares for a total of 36 squares.

For the Table Topper you want to arrange 9 squares by 9 squares for a total of 81 squares.
Sew together a row at a time and then sew your rows together, always pinning at each seam.


Step 6 – BORDERS – First sew on two brown 1 1/4 inch borders on the opposite ends. Cut off even with the square blocks, then add the two long borders to the top and bottom and cut off any excess.

Step 7 – For the cream borders, cut into 5″ strips, and sew on the same way as the brown. Repeat steps 6 and 7 on your table topper also.

This is how the Table Runner and Table Topper should look with the borders sewn on.



Step 8 – Note: If you decided to have your topper and runner quilted draw on your scallops before hand so the quilter knows where to quilt.

I think everyone has a different way of doing this because everyone gave me completely different advice. Sooooo here is what worked for me.

First off draw a straight line in about one inch from the edges of your cream border all around the topper and runner. This is so the tops of your scallops are even. It would also be smart to draw a line where the down point of each scallop will be.

I used a plastic lid as my template. I tried many different sizes and the one that worked the best for me was a 5 1/2″ round lid. I first did my corners and then the four scallops in the middle and then tried to space out the rest from there. Overlapping your scallops will help a ton when it comes to getting them all even. And believe me I didn’t used a black sharpie at first. I only drew over my disappearing marker with a sharpie when I new that my scallops were exactly where I wanted them to be.


Step 9 – Sew around the scallops and then cut out close to your seam. Sewing around it first will make it much easier to bind.


Step 10 – Make your bias binding. If you have never done this before you will need to cut 1 1/2 inch wide strips of fabric on the bias line on your cutting mat. Sew strips together end to end. You will need approx 7 – 8 yards of bias binding. Make your bias binding by first ironing strip in half. Unfold and iron one side half way into the the crease you made previously.

Step 11 – Now the fun part, sewing it on. Sew the raw edge of your bias tape with right sides of fabric together onto the topper or runner. Start in the middle of one of your scallops and line up the edges. I used 1/4 inch seam allowance and lined up the edges as I sewed.


When you get to the corner, keep your needle down but put your presser foot up. Turn topper or runner so the fabric is parallel with your presser foot.


Stretch the two scallops away from each other making it as straight as you can. Put your presser foot down (still stretching the two scallops apart) and continue sewing.


Step 12 – For me this is the fun part. After your border is sewn onto the top, turn your piece around and stitch the back of binding on by hand. When you get to one of the inside points of the scallop just pull the binding up into the scallop and stitch.

A fun new Table Topper and Table Runner to make your Fall Holidays a little more cozy!


If you’d like some ideas of what to do with some of your left over pieces of Gobble Gobble fabric visit my blog by clicking here.

Ribbon Blanket and Block

I thought this would make such a cute gift for a new baby. I’ve never had one for any of my babies, (and wouldn’t you know it I’m having a boy so this cute girly one won’t work) but I’ve heard babies just love them. Both are easy and quick to make. Ribbon blanket measures approx. 18 1/2″ square, block is about 4″ square.

Block:

6 squares from Hushabye charm pack by Tula Pink.
6 Five inch squares of thin batting (I used Warm and Natural).
12 pieces of different ribbons cut into 5″-6″ pieces.
Your favorite fiber fill or stuffing to fill the finished block.

Ribbon Blanket
16 squares from Hushabye Charm pack by Tula Pink.
1 – 20″ piece of thin batting (I used Warm and Natural).
1 – 20″ coordinating piece of minky fabric.
12 – 16 pieces of different ribbon, cut into 5″ – 6″ pieces.

Block:

Step One –
Pick 6 – 5″ square pieces from your Hushabye charm pack.
Cut 6 – 5″ squares from batting
Cut 12 ribbons into 5″ – 6″ pieces.


Step 2 – Layer pieces for sewing. Layer batting, fabric, ribbon pinned in the center, fabric (right sides facing together on fabric pieces), batting and pin.

Step 3 – Measure in 1/2″ on all corners of batting and make a mark. This will need to be done to all pieces of batting.

Step 4 – Starting on the side of the fabric stack that you pinned, start sewing at the 1/2″ mark using a 1/2″ seam allowance. Sew until you get to the next 1/2″ mark on the same side.

Step 5 – Follow steps 2 through five until you have sewn four 5″ squares together with the ribbon pinned in the middle.

Step 5 – Sew the 1st and 4th squares together. Below is how it should look when this is done.

Step 6 – Pin ribbon onto top and bottom of block. Four on the top and four on the bottom.

Step 7 – Open top left corner at the 1/2 mark and pin on 5″ fabric piece and 5″ piece of batting. Next do the same at the top right corner, also pin again where the ribbon is.

Sew across the top starting and stopping at the 1/2″ marks. Next, pin the bottom the same way and sew, and then repeat process on the sides.

It should look similar to this on the corners. Repeat step 7 for the bottom of the block. Be sure to leave a 3″ opening on one of the seams on the bottom so that you can turn the block right side out. Use your favorite type of stuffing and fill block, then hand stitch the opening on the bottom closed.

Ribbon Blanket

Step 1 – Pick 16 of your favorite squares from your charm pack and lay them out how you want them to look.

Step 2 – Sew together one strip at a time, then sew strips together pining at the seams.

Step 3 – Once all blocks are sewn together start pining the ribbon on the out side of the block in the center. On the corners I only used one ribbon, but it would look cute with two also.

Step 4 – Cut your minky fabric and batting to match the size of the top of your blanket. Place right sides of minky fabric and the top of your ribbon blanket together pinning on the seams. Sew around entire blanket leaving about a 4 – 5″ opening on one of the sides so you can turn it right side out.

Step 5 – Using one of your favorite stitches on your machine sew around the entire ribbon blanket, using about 1/2″ seam allowance. I’m not sure I would choose the stitch I used again. You really have to pull the fabric through the machine, and it was hard to make this stitch look uniform.

And ta da, your finished.


A very cute ribbon blanket and ribbon block for your very favorite baby. If you’d like to make one of these for yourself, be sure and come visit my blog. I’m having a giveaway for a free Hushabye Charm pack and enough ribbon and batting to make your very own block or. I think I’ll throw in another surprise charm pack as well. I also have another fun Halloween giveaway going on right now you’ll have to check out.

Mill House Inn Tote Bag




1 Mill House Inn Honey Bun by Fig Tree Quilts
1/3 yard of Coordinating fabric (bottom of bag, handles)
1/4 yard of Coordinating fabric (tie on front, loop closure)
1/2 yard of broadcloth or coordinating fabric for lining of bag
1 button (inch or larger) for button loop closure
1/2 yard of Warm & Natural or other similar batting

Pick out 14 of your favorite honey bun strips, cut them so they are 15-16″ long. You can use the rest of of the strips for another project or bag.

Step 2 – Cut two 7″ pieces. These will be for the top of the bag.

Step 3 – Cut two 15 x 7″ pieces out of your 1/3 yard of coordinating fabric. Make sure when you cut these that there is enough fabric to make the handles which will require 2 – 21 x 4″ pieces of fabric. Sew the two 15 x 7″ coordinating fabrics onto the bottom of the two pieced pieces of fabric. Make sure that the end strip of 1st piece and beginning strip of 2nd piece are different so that when the bag is sew together there aren’t two of the same strips by each other.

Step 4 – Cut two batting pieces a little bigger than the pieced pieces you just finished. Lay pieced fabric on top of batting and quilt. If you don’t know how or don’t want to free hand quilt with your machine, you could just sew in between each stripe and at the bottom. Do this with both pieced pieces.


Step 5 – Trim extra batting off of both pieces. Place right sides together making sure the strips of fabric are together and the bottoms are together and sew around the sides and bottom using a 1/4″ seam allowance, turn fabric right side out.

Step 6- Making the tie around the middle of bag. Cut a 3″ x 37″ piece of fabric from your 1/4 yard of coordinating fabric. Fold in half width wise with right sides together and press. Cut both ends off at a 45 degree angle, or whatever looks good to you. Sew up the ends and down the side of tie (leaving an opening to turn). Now turn so right sides are out and press. stitch up small opening on side.

Step 7 – Pin tie onto the bag. Do this by folding tie in half length wise to find the middle and mark, also mark the middle of the back of the bag where the strips of fabric meet the bottom fabric. Now fold the fabric in half length wise, this just helps with making sure it’s centered on the bag when you pin it. Starting at the back of the bag where you marked, and the mark on the middle of the tie start pining tie onto bag by lining up the fold of the tie to the seam where the strips of fabric and bottom of bag come together and pin all the way around. Stop pinning when you get to the front middle two strips. This is where you’ll tie a knot. I feel like I just made that way more complicated then it needed to be, hopefully it makes some sense.


Now sew tie onto bag using about a 1/8″ seam allowance and sewing down the top and bottom of tie fabric. Remember to stop when you get to the front two middle strips of fabric.


It should look like this……………

Now the easy part……..tie it into a knot.

Step 8 – Turn the bag inside out. At the bottom of inside of bag measure in 2 1/4″ inches on the side and bottom of bag at both corners. Now reposition so that the marks on the side seam and bottom seam are touching.
Pin at cut at the mark so it looks like this…………sew closed using a 1/4″ seam allowance. Do this on both right and left sides of bag.

Turn right side out and wa la, it should look like this.


Step 9 – Inside or lining of tote bag. Cut two 14 x 15″ pieces of broadcloth or coordinating fabric. Place right sides together and sew around the sides and bottom leaving about a 4 inch opening on one of the sides.


Step 10 – Handles. Cut two 21 x 4 inch pieces of fabric out of the 1/3 yard of coordinating fabric. Fold piece of fabric in half width wise and press. Unfold and fold outer edges into the middle crease. Now fold entire piece of fabric in half width wise and sew closed using about 1/8″ seam allowance.

Center handle between the 3rd and 4th strip like shown below and pin on both sides. Turn fabric around and pin 2nd handle on the back by doing the same thing.

Step 11 – Loop Closure. Cut a 4 x 61/2″ piece of fabric out of your coordinating 1/4 yard piece. Fold, iron and sew just like you did the handles. Now fold the sewn piece of fabric in half length wise and press. Fold both sides down at a 45 degree angle using the middle crease as your guide.


Turn piece around and sew down the bottom of the triangle of fabric using a 1/8″ seam allowance.

Pin onto the back of bag at the top in the very middle.
Step 12 – Last Step. Put the entire tote bag inside the lining so that the right side of bag and right side of lining is together. Line up the side seams and pin. Line up the tops of fabric and pin a few times. Now sew along the top all the way around using 1/4″ seam allowance.


Pull the outside of bag through the opening that you left on the side of your lining fabric. Stitch closed the 4″ opening left on the side for turning. Tuck lining of bag inside and press.

Now stitch around the top using a 1/8″ seam allowance.


Sew the button onto the front and you are done!!!

One Very Cute Tote Bag, perfect size to hold your crafts, a few diapers or even use as a purse.

Nicole Willmore
{ourcozynest.blogspot.com}

His and Her Scrappy Christmas Stockings

– One Figgy Pudding Jelly Roll by Basic Grey

– Two, 1/2 yard pieces of coordinating fabric.
– One 20′ x 20″ piece of light weight batting.
(I used warm and natural)

This is the pattern I used. I took it to a copy shop and blew it up so that the stocking measures approx. 7″ x 15 1/2″. I also added an extra 1 1/2″ inches to the top because I wanted it a little

longer.

Step 1 – Pick out 10 of your favorite strips of fabric from your Jelly Roll. Cut them in half length wise so you have ten 2 1/2 x 18″ pieces.


Step 2 – Cut your strips so that one end measures approx 1″ in width and the other the full 2 1/2″. This will give you the scrappy look that were going for.

Step 3 – Sew all strips together (1/4″ seam allowance), starting with the 1″ end of the strip being at the left end (start), and then next time the 2 1/2″ strip being at the left end. Do this with all ten strips. Then using your favorite stitch, sew the fabric onto the batting by sewing in the ditch of each seam. Note: Make sure you start at the bottom left edge so the the extra batting will be at the top of the stocking.

Step 4 – Cut the quilted fabric in half like in the picture below. One will be for the red stocking and one for the green.

Step 5 – Cut the coordinating pieces of fabric. I tried to show how to lay out your pieces to cut them, but I’m definitely not a photo shop expert so hopefully if will make some sense. The diagram below shows how the stockings should be laid out on a 18″ x 45 ” piece of fabric with the left edge folded over enough to cut two. The first stocking needs to be cut on the folded fabric, these two will be used for the lining so you can set them aside for later. Go ahead and cut out the rest of the pieces as explained. You will also need to do this out of the 2nd piece of coordinating fabric for the 2nd stocking. I sure hope this makes sense.

Step 6 – Sew the 9 x 3 1/4″ piece of coordinating fabric onto the top of stocking. Do this by placing the coordinating piece right side down and facing right side of stocking with the edge lined up with the edge of your last strip of fabric. Sew along top using a 1/4″ seam allowance. Open and press.

Step 7 – Lay your pattern on top of your stocking fabric so that the stocking pattern is at the top of the red fabric. Mine doesn’t look that way, I put a large piece of red because I wasn’t sure how long to make it, but 3″ of the red fabric on top seems to be about right.

Step 8 – Layer fabric as show below and then cut out stocking.

Step 9 – Explained in picture.


Step 10 – Sew around stocking using a 1/4″ seam allowance, then trim. Turn stocking right side out so the batting is in the middle. Also sew around the two stockings pieces that were cut on the folded fabric, place right sides together and sew – leave about a 2″ opening on the straight side of stocking so you can turn it later.


Step 11 – Making the loop/hook – Take your 2 1/2 x 6″ piece of fabric and iron in half width wise. Unfold and fold outer edges into the middle crease, then fold entire piece in half width wise and sew along outer two edges using about 1/8″ seam allowance.

Step 12 – Make the band around your stocking – Take your 7 x 13″ piece of fabric and fold in half lengthwise with right sides together. Sew up the edge and then turn. Iron piece of fabric in half width wise. Place raw edges at the top of stocking (pictured below) and pin with the seam in back or on the side. Next fold loop fabric in half, center it over the side seam on the left and then pin. Next place the quilted stocking inside of the red lining stocking. Pin at the top and sew around top.

Step 13 – Pull the quilted stocking out through the opening of the lining stocking. Sorry, now it’s green.
Step 14 – Sew up the space in the side and then tuck lining down into the stocking, and fold fabric band down. Repeat steps 5 – 14 for your coordinating stocking.

Two Super Cute His and Her Scrappy Christmas Stockings. The finished size of this stocking is approximately 6″ x 15″. This is a smaller stocking (that’s just what I grew up with) so, if you like big ones you will need to adjust the pattern accordingly. You may need more like 3/4 of a yard of coordinating fabric and a few extra strips of the Jelly Roll. If you used your whole jelly roll, you can actually get 16 stockings because you can get 4 our of every ten strips. Just remember that you need a half yard of coordinating fabric for each stocking. If you don’t want to sew any, these two will be up for sale in my etsy shop.