Layer Cake Waterfall

This is literally a no sewing project! Layer cakes are my favorite pre-cut to sew with but my least favorite to hoard because they just aren’t as pretty as the rest of the bunch. I tend to sew with them right away. But with this easy folding technique, I can make them look pretty to wait for me on the shelf while I spend some quality time with my jelly rolls and fat quarter bundles.

I’ve used this same technique to dress up fat quarter bundles so I thought I’d give layer cakes a try. A layer cake rolled up in this way is the perfect size to stuff into a stocking. And if you don’t think Santa is going to bring one of these lovelies to you, there is absolutely nothing wrong with putting one in your own stocking!

1 Layer Cake (I used Scrumptious by Bonnie and Camille)
6 to 8 inches of twill tape or ribbon (I used Moda twill tape that I saved from a jelly roll)

Fold your layer cake squares in half. (Look at all that layer cake dust!)

Line up the folded and bottom edges and fan them out about 1/4″ apart. Stack some prints on top of each other but make sure the ones you like best are showing.

Starting from one end, roll them up.

The ends of the outer layer cake should almost touch. Use a rubber band or twill tape to tie the bundle together.

Start folding down the edges of various layer cake squares to create a waterfall effect. You won’t be able to fold down each one individually but you should be able to get a nice variety.

Adjust the folded layers until you get just the right look.

One sweet little bundle! Perfect to keep and lovely to give.

Hop over to {my blog} to see this tutorial using fat quarters.

May your stocking be stuffed with layer cakes this Christmas!

Lisa Calle
{www.vintagemodernquilts.com}

Scrumptious Scrappy Chevron Picnic Quilt

Oct23

Hi Everyone! I’m Rhonda from Patchwork Sampler and I’m thrilled to be sharing my first Moda Bake Shop project with you. This is an easy project that’s perfect for a baby quilt, throw or bed topper. I used the beautiful “Scrumptious” line of fabric from Bonnie and Camille for this quilt and it turned out to be a wonderfully bright, happy project!

Fabric:
One layer cake-Scrumptious by Bonnie and Camille
1 yard of background-Bella Porcelain (9900-182), Scrumptious Cream Solid (55078-17) or similar fabric
2/3 yard binding-Scrumptious Diagonal Stripe Aqua (55071-12)
3½ yards backing-I used Scrumptious Aqua (55073-12)

Tools:
Pencil
Rotary cutter and ruler
Basic sewing supplies
Sewing machine

Use ¼” seams throughout this project unless otherwise noted. Pressing directions are given when it makes a difference in piecing units or sewing blocks together. There are two squares of the cream solid in the Scrumptious layer cake. I did not use those in my project because of the similarity to the background fabric. Just set them aside and use them in another quilt!

This quilt is made from two easy blocks. We’ll start by making Block A, the chevron block first.

Cut each of the remaining 40 squares in half so you have (2) 5″ x 10″ rectangles from each. Make two stacks of rectangles. One set will be used in block A. Set the other set aside to use for Block B.

Cut each of the rectangles from the Block A set in half, making two 5″ squares from each.

Select 42 of the 5″ squares to use for the half-square triangles (HST) in Block A. Be sure to select squares that contrast with your background. Trim each of the selected squares to 4⅞” square. Set the remaining 5″ squares aside to use in Block B.

From the background fabric cut (6) 4⅞” strips. Sub-cut into (42) 4⅞” squares. Draw a diagonal line on the back of each background square. Pair each of the background squares right sides together with a print square.

Sew a ¼” seam on both sides of the drawn line. Then cut apart on the drawn line.

Press seams toward the print fabric and clip off the “dog ears.” Your HST units should measure 4½” square. Make 84 HST blocks.

Select four HST units for each block. Try to choose four different colors and prints for each block.
Layout a set of four HST units as shown below. Make sure the triangles are placed correctly to form the chevron.

Sew the units together into pairs. To reduce bulk, press the seams open.

Sew the pairs together to make the block. Again, press seams open. Make 21 blocks. Your blocks should measure 8½” square at this point.

Now gather up the 5″ x 10″ rectangles you set aside along with the remaining 5″ squares and get ready to do some more cutting to make the “B” Blocks.

Cut each of the 5″ x 10″ rectangles in half lengthwise to make two 2½” x 10″ rectangles.

Select 56 of these rectangles and sub-cut them to 2½” x 8½“.
From the remaining 2½” x 10″ rectangles and 5″ squares, cut (112) 2½” x 4½” rectangles.

Sew pairs of 2½” x 4½” rectangles together along the short side. Press seams to one side. Make 56 pairs.

For each B Block select two 2½” x 8½” rectangles and two units from the previous step. Try to get an assortment of colors and prints for each block.

Sew the blocks together as shown. Press all the seams up toward the 2½” x 8½” rectangle at the top. Make 28 blocks. Blocks should measure 8½” square at this point.

Now you should have 21 “A” Blocks and 28 “B” Blocks and you’re ready to lay out the quilt. It has seven rows of seven blocks each. The odd numbered rows are “B” blocks and the even numbered rows are “A” blocks.

Every other block in Rows 1, 3, 5 and 7 are rotated 180 degrees (just turn them upside down!).
Lay out four rows that look like this and sew them together.

Now lay out three rows that look like this and sew them together. All blocks go the same way on the even rows.

Sew your rows together to finish your quilt top. Press the seams toward the odd rows.

Cut your backing into two 1¾ yard pieces. Cut off the selvages and sew the pieces together for the backing. Layer quilt top with batting and backing, then quilt as desired. This is how I quilted mine.

In the odd rows I simply quilted continuous up-and-down lines.

In the even rows, I got a little fancier (but still very easy) and quilted little pebbles in the background. The chevrons were quilted with three wavy lines. I quilted in the ditch to outline the chevrons and on the seams between rows.

Bind your quilt and enjoy! If you need help binding, there is a MBS tutorial here.

One quilt, approximately 56″ square.
~~A limited number of Scrappy Chevron Picnic Quilt kits are available in my Etsy shop~~ here. Sorry, kits are now sold out.

Rhonda Roberts
{www.patchworksampler.com}

Sweet as Honey Quilt

Oct17

Hello everyone! My name is Chrissy Lux and I am thrilled to be sharing a project here at the Moda Bake Shop! I co-own Sew Lux Fabric with my mom and share my adventures in sewing on our blog.

Hexagons are so cute and I was excited when Moda introduced their Honeycomb precuts. If you’re scared to piece them, don’t be! I am going to walk you through this quick and easy quilt. I’ve listed the ingredients below, but if you need a kit for this quilt you can order one here.

Let’s get sewing, shall we?!

Fabric Needed:
1 Honeycomb (Scrumptious 55070 HC)
1/2 half yard for sashing (Bella Off White 9900 200)
1/2 yard for inner border (Scrumptious Berry Pink 55074 21)
1 yard for outer border (Scrumptious Paisley Aqua 55077 12)
1/2 yard for binding (Scrumptious Printed Color Aqua 55078 12 )
3 yards for backing (Scrumptious Summer Aqua 55072 12)

Tools Needed:
Marking Pen
Hexagon template (included with Moda’s Honeycomb precuts)
Rotary cutter & ruler
Machine & Basic sewing supplies

STEP ONE:
First, let’s cut all your sashing & borders so they’ll be ready.

From the outer border print, cut five strips 6.5″ x WOF.
From the inner border print, cut four strips 3.5″ x WOF.
From the sashing solid, cut six strips 2.5″ x WOF.
From the binding, cut six strips 2.5″ x WOF (not shown in photo below).

STEP TWO:
Sort your precut hexagons into the following stacks:
SIX stacks of 5 prints
ONE stack of 6 prints (these will be cut in half and mixed among the stacks of 5 hexies)

Note: Try to disperse your colors among each stack. OR make them monochromatic – its up to you!

Use a ruler to cut the stack of six hexies in half.

Add two half hexies to each of the six stacks of 5.

STEP THREE:

Each Honeycomb comes with a plastic template with holes in the corners that make it super easy to mark your seam allowances!

Grab a stack of five full hexies + two half hexies, the template and a marking pen.

Use the template to mark dots on all the points the WRONG side of each hexie.

Next, take your center hexie and one of the half hexies and place them right sides together, lining up the dots.

Pin in place and stitch from dot-to-dot using a 1/4 in seam. Be sure to back stitch at the beginning and end (the dots).

Stitch the other half hexie to the opposite side of the center hexagon.

Sew two full hexies together. Line up the dots and stitch using a 1/4″ seam from one dot all the way to the outside edge of the hexies (ignore the second dot). Don’t forget to backstitch at the beginning dot! Make two pairs.

Now its time to hook them all together! Start by sewing one hexagon to the half hexagon. Match the dots and stitch from the inside dots (closest to the center hexie) to the edge of the fabric (past the outer dot) using a 1/4 inch seam. (NOTE: You are going to ignore the dots along the outside edges of the hexie block and stitch all the way to the edge of the fabrics so that all seams along the outside of the block are completely closed.)

BE SURE YOU ARE ATTACHING THE SIDE PAIR WITH THE OPEN DOT TOWARDS THE CENTER HEXIE.

Pin the top side hexie to the center hexie. Match the dots and move the other pieces out of the way so they are like wings sticking out from the intersection of the dots. Stitch from dot-to-dot. Don’t forget to backstitch!

Continue going around the center hexie.

Pin and sew from dot-to-dot to attach the hexies. Make sure to move the other fabrics out of the way.

For the bottom, you’ll sew from the inside dot all the way to the outer edge of the fabrics.

Repeat the process on the other side so you have a ring of hexies around the center hexie as shown below.

Press your hexagon block as shown. (Away from the center hexie.)

Make six blocks of pieced hexies.

Press and use a ruler and rotary cutter to trim each hexie block to 9.25 in x 11.5 in.

STEP FOUR:
Let’s sash and add the borders!

From one of the sashing strips, subcut into four 2.5″ x 9.25″ strips.
Sash the blocks by adding the 9.25″ long strips between blocks to make two columns of 3 blocks.

Then join the columns by adding the WOF strips between the columns and onto the right and left sides. Then use the remaining two strips to add sashing to the top and bottom.

Add the inner border to the sides first (long sides) and then to the top and bottom (short sides).

Finally, add the outer border. Cut ONE of the outer border strips in half (6.5″ x 22″) and sew one half strip to each of TWO WOF strips to make them longer.

Sew two WOF strips to the top and bottom (short sides). Then add the pieced strips to the right and left sides (long sides).

For the backing, cut your yardage into two 1.5 yard pieces. Sew along the selvage side – be sure to include a seam allowance and trim away the selvage.

Layer and quilt as desired. Finish by adding binding.

Need help binding? See the MBS tutorial here.

One pretty lap quilt (42 in x 59 in)

Chrissy Lux
{www.sewlux.blogspot.com}

Fairground Quilt

Sep13

Hi everyone! It is LeAnne Ballard from Everyday Celebrations. Confession. I love banners! I have a banner for just about every holiday and season that I love to hang on my mantel. At the end of last year, I sketched up this quilt and got so so excited to make it, but I was waiting for the perfect fabric. When I saw Scrumptious I knew it was the one.

1 Scrumptious Layer Cake
2 1/8 yards neutral fabric – Bella Solid in Bleached White 97
1 1/3 yards for border – Scrumptious Berry in Aqua 55074-12
5/8 yard for binding – Scrumptious Bias Stripe in Lime 55071-13
3 3/4 yards backing – Bella Solid in Aqua 34
65″ x 85″ batting

finished size 61″ x 80″

1. All seams are 1/4″.
2. WOF means width of fabric.
3. HSTs stands for half-square triangles.
4. When cutting the layer cake squares, use the cutting diagrams. When you cut for blocks #1 and #2, some pieces will be used in other blocks. I recommend placing the pieces in piles and labeling with the corresponding measurement and block to avoid confusion.

This quilt is made up of four different blocks.

Decide if you would like your pinwheels in block #3 to be scrappy or not. If you choose scrappy note the change in the cutting of block #3. Otherwise, follow the cutting as follows.

{Cutting}

Neutral *based off 42″ wide fabric
From the 2 1/8 yards of neutral fabric cut:
{6} 3.5″ x WOF strips
Subcut {6} 6.5″ x 3.5″ strips per strip for a total of {36}

{11} 2.5″ x WOF strips (you only may need {9} if your fabric is 44″/45″ wide)
Subcut {4} 8.5″ x 2.5″ strips per strip for a total of {42}

{9} 2.5″ x WOF strips strips for the sashing between rows

Border
From the 1 1/2 yards of border fabric cut:
{7} 6″ x WOF strips

Binding
From the 5/8 yard of binding fabric cut:
{8} 2.5″ x WOF strips

Layer Cake Squares – select 30 layer cake squares
There is very little waste so cut carefully; measure twice, cut once! I recommend cutting one or two before cutting multiple at a time. After you are done cutting for each block, stack pieces together and clearly label to avoid confusion.

If you are using HSTs from the Flying Geese, skip the following:
From any of the remaining layer cake squares cut:
{6} 2.5″ squares – Add to 2.5″ squares for block #2 for a total of {24}
{6} pairs of 3 3/8″ squares for a total of {12} – the contrasting part of the pinwheels in block #3

{Flying Geese}

All blocks use a Flying Geese unit. Draw a diagonal line on the back of all {72} of the 3.5″ squares. If you making the scrappy pinwheels, or if you want a bunch of FREE HST, draw a second diagonal line 1/2″ away from your first line on your 3.5″ squares.

1.Take one 6.5″ x 3.5″ neutral piece and place right-side up. Place one 3.5″ square as shown with the wrong-side up. Make sure the diagonal line is correctly positioned as shown below. (1a) If you have a second diagonal line for the HST, place so it is above the first line. (1b) Pin square in place.

2. Sew directly on the drawn diagonal line. (If you have a second diagonal line, sew on that line next.)

3. Next, use a clear ruler and place the 1/4″ line directly on top of your stitching. Cut on the outside with a rotary cutter. (3a) If you are making HST, this will yield one HST per side. (3b)

4. Press the seam to the print or top of the unit. (Do not IRON this seam, or you may get a wonky unit.)

5. Repeat on the the other side of unit. If you have a second line, position it ABOVE the first line.

6. Press entire unit.

7. If you are using HSTs from this step, choose {4} HSTs per block #3 for a total of {24} HSTs. Square up to 2.5″. Place your HSTs with your block #3 cutting.

Remember, keep these organized by block to avoid confusion. (For example. I made all my Flying Geese for block #1 then placed them with all my block #1 cutting. Then continued for the next block and so on.)

{Half-Square Triangles (HSTs)}

If you are using HSTs from the flying geese, skip this step:
For each #3 block, you will need {2} pairs of 3 3/8″ squares. One fabric will be the same as the outside part of the block. Call this the “neutral”. The other fabric will be the the contrast part of the pinwheel. Call this the “color”.

1. Using a pencil, lightly draw a diagonal line on the back of your neutral squares.

2. Place one neutral square and one color square right sides together with the diagonal line facing up.

3. Sew 1/4″ from the diagonal line on each side.

4. Cut directly on the drawn diagonal line to yield {2} HSTs.

5. Press the seam towards the darker of the two fabrics.

6. Square up your HSTs to 2.5″.

7. Place HSTs with your block #3 cutting.

{Block Assembly}
unfinished size 6.5″ x 9.5″

Block #1

For each block #1 you will need:
{1} 6.5″ square, and {1} flying geese unit – all from same fabric

1. With wrong sides together, pin a flying geese unit to a matching 6.5″ square as shown below. Sew together and press seam towards the 6.5″ square.

2. Repeat for a total of {18} blocks.

Block #2

For each block #2 you will need:
{2} 1.5″ x 4.5″ strips, {2} 1.5″ x 6.5″ strips, and {1} flying geese unit – all from same fabric
{4} 2.5″ squares from various fabrics

1. Choose {4} 2.5″ squares four each four-patch unit. Sew together in two rows of two and press seams in opposite directions. Pin the rows together, nesting the seams, and sew. Press seam open to reduce bulk.

2. Sew a 4.5″ x 1.5″ strip to both sides of the four-patch unit. Press seams to outside. (2a) Sew a 6.5″ x 1.5″ strip to both sides of the four-patch unit. Press seams to outside. (2b) The unit should measure 6.5″.

3. With wrong sides together, pin the matching flying geese unit to the four-patch unit as shown below. Sew together and press seam towards the four-patch unit.

4. Repeat for a total of {6} blocks.

Block #3

For each block #3 you will need:
{2} 1.5″ x 4.5″ strips, {2} 1.5″ x 6.5″ strips, and {1} flying geese until – all from same fabric
{4} HSTs

1. Arrange {4} HSTs into a pinwheel design.

2. Sew together in two rows of two and press seams in opposite directions. Pin the rows together, nesting the seams, and sew. Press seam open to reduce bulk.

3. Follow step two in block #2 for attaching the 1.5″ strips to each side. Press seams to outside. The unit should measure 6.5″.

4. With wrong sides together, pin the matching flying geese unit to the pinwheel unit as shown below. Sew together and press seam towards the pinwheel unit.

5. Repeat for a total of {6} blocks.

Block #4

For each block #4 you will need:
{1} flying geese unit – shouldn’t match any of the other fabrics for this block
{3} 2.5″ x 6.5″ strips – each a different fabric

1. Sew {3} 2.5″ x 6.5″ strips together along the 6.5″ side. The unit should measure 6.5″.

2. With wrong sides together, pin a flying geese unit to the stripe unit as shown below. Sew together and press seam towards the stripe unit.

3. Repeat for a total of {6} blocks.

{Quilt Assembly}

Layout your blocks in {6} rows of {6}. In each row I included {3} of block #1, and {1} each of the other blocks. Then alternate their position from row to row. (I know this picture only shows five rows. I decide to add another row after this picture.)

{Sashing}

1. Sew {1} 2.5″ x 1.5″ tag piece to the top of {1} 8.5″ x 2.5″ neutral piece. Press seam OPEN. Repeat until you have {42}.

2. Sew {1} sashing strip to both sides of the first block in the row.

3. Sew {1} sashing strip to the right side of the remaining blocks in the row.

4. Sew the the row together. Press seams out towards the sashing.Press the entire row. Repeat for six rows.

5. Sew together {2} of the 2.5″ x WOF sashing strips. Press seam OPEN.

6. Using a tape measure, measure each row. If they are different take the average. Mark this measurement on your sashing strip and mark with a pin. Pin and sew sashing between rows. Trim after sewing, saving the excess for remaining sashing. Repeat between all rows.

7. After adding the sashing between all rows, measure the width of the quilt at the top, middle, and bottom. If they are different, take the average. Measure this on a sashing strip and mark with a pin. Sew to the top of the quilt. Trim after sewing, saving the excess. Repeat for the bottom.

{Borders}

1. Sew together {2} border strips. Press seam OPEN.

2. First we will attach the side borders. Measure the length of the quilt at both sides and down the middle. If they are different, take the average. Measure this length on the border strip and mark with a pin. Bring the end of the border strip to the pin and mark the middle of the strip with a pin.

3. Fold your quilt top in half lengthwise and mark with a pin.

4. Place border strip and quilt top right sides together. Using the pins as a guide, match the middle of the quilt and the middle of the border strip. Pin in place. Match the ends of the quilt with the ends of the border and pin in place. Pin between the middle and ends.

5. Sew border in place. Trim border and check corner is square. Repeat with other side.

6. Next, measure across the width of the quilt at the top, middle, and bottom. Again, if different take the average. Fold your quilt top in half widthwise and mark with a pin. Repeat the same process in step 4 for the top and bottom border.

Next, comes everyone’s favorite phrase in quilting, “Baste, quilt, and bind”. Then wash, love, cuddle, and use your Fairground quilt.

one darling 61″ x 80″ quilt

LeAnne Ballard
{everydaycelebrate.blogspot.com}

Scrum-diddly-umptious Baby Quilt

Sep5

Welcome! My name is Erica and I blog over at Kitchen Table Quilting. I absolutely loved working with Scrumptious; just sewing with it made me feel happy. This quilt is kind of a modified Irish Chain quilt that uses charm squares and jelly roll strips. I hope that you enjoy the tutorial!

1 Scrumptious charm pack

1 Scrumptious jelly roll

1 Bella Solids jelly roll in white
1/2 yard Scrumptious print for the binding (or you could use leftover jelly roll strips)
3.5 yards fabric for the backing

1. From your charm pack and jelly rolls separate out:

9 charm squares
14 white jelly roll strips
5 solid jelly roll strips from the Scrumptious jelly roll
18 print jelly roll strips from the Scrumptious jelly roll

2. For each block I chose one print strip that was the same color as the solid strip (I will refer to this as the B strip) and 1 print strip that contrasted that color (I will refer to this as the A strip). You will also need:

1 charm square
1.5 white jelly roll strips
0.5 solid jelly roll strips from the Scrumptious jelly roll
2 print jelly roll strips from the Scrumptious jelly roll

3. Take your print strips and your white strip and cut them in half so that you have strips that are 2.5″x22″.

4. Piece them together with the A strip on top (the one that contrasts your solid), B strip in the middle (the one that matches your solid), and white strip on bottom.

5. Square up the edge so that it is straight and cut this long strip into 8 strips that are 2.5″x6.5″.

6. Take the remainder of your B strip and cut it in half so that you have 2 pieces that are 2.5″x11″ and your A strip so that you have a piece that is 2.5″x11″.