Baby Showers Quilt

Hi there! It is LeAnne Ballard from Everyday Celebrations with a fun baby quilt for you today. Like many, I absolutely adore the new line April Showers and loved making these two baby quilts. The design is the same for both, appliqued raindrops, but the placement is different for each quilt.

I hope you have fun making this quilt! Check out my other recipes here.

Per Quilt

10 fat quarters*
1 1/2 yards background/neutral fabric
1 1/2 yards backing fabric
1/2 yard binding
2 1/4 yards fuisble webbing (I prefer Heat n’ Bond Lite or you can use your preferred applique method.)
template plastic (Print out raindrop template and trace onto template plastic. Transfer markings from the raindrop onto the template plastic. Cut out template.)
batting

*Note: You could also use jelly roll strips for the scrappy raindrops and fat quarters/fat eighths for the solid raindrops.

Decide whether you want to make the normal or staggered layout:

 *All seams are 1/4″ unless noted.

Cutting

From the 1 1/2 background/neutral cut:
{4} 12.5″ x WOF strips
subcut into {4} 10.5″ x 12.5″ rectangles for a total of {16} rectangles
*Note: If you are making the staggered raindrop quilt, trim {4} of the rectangles to 10.5″ x 12.25″. Place these in a separate pile and label. This is the only cutting difference between the quilts.

From each fat quarter cut:  the remaining fat quarter will be used for the solid raindrops
{2} 2.5″ x 21″ (or width of the fat quarter) strips
from each strip subcut {1} 9.5″ x 2.5″ and {1} 11.5″ x 2.5″ (I just left the remaining strip. The strip needs to be at least 11.5″.)

Binding
From the 1/2 yard for the binding cut:
{5} 2.5″ x WOF strips

Prepare Applique
Trace {16} raindrops onto the fusible webbing using the raindrop template. Transfer markings onto the fusible webbing. Roughly cut around each raindrop leaving about 1/4″ around each raindrop.  Next, cut out the centers of the raindrops leaving about 1/2″. This will help keep the quilt cuddly and soft instead of stiff from the fusible webbing.

Block Assembly

Vertical Raindrops

1. For each vertical raindrop select {4} 2.5″ x 11.5″ strips.  Arrange as desired and sew.  Press seams OPEN. Make a total of {4} vertical units. (You will have extra of these strips.)

2.   Flip the unit over and line up the mark at the bottom with the center seam as shown below. Line up the tip of the raindrop with the same center seam. Quickly fuse in place. (I found it easier to “baste” the fusible web in place by quickly lifting the iron up and down over the webbing. Then I flipped the unit over to the front and fused as directed by my instructions. Otherwise, it was easy to  mess up the directions of the seams.) 

 

 

3. Cut out the raindrop. Leave paper in place until you are ready to fuse in place. Repeat for {4} vertical raindrops.

Horizontal Raindrops

1.  For each horizontal raindrop select {5} 2.5″ x 9.5″ strips.  Arrange as desired and sew.  Press seams open. Make a total of {4} horizontal units.

2. To line up this raindrop, fold the unit in half and lightly press to create a crease. Fuse the webbing in place just like you did for the vertical raindrops, just use the crease as you guide. Repeat for {4} horizontal raindrops.

 Solid Raindrops

1.  Select {8} of the fat quarters for your solid raindrops. Fuse the raindrop fusible web onto the remaining part of the fat quarter. (Follow the directions for your brand of fusible webbing.)

2.  Allow to cool then cut on tracing line. Repeat for {8} solid raindrops.

Patchwork Raindrop
If you opt to make this block, make in place of one of the solid raindrops.

1. From one of the remaining fat quarters cut {1} 4.75″ x 11″ piece and {1} 3.5″ x 11″ piece. From the leftover 2.5″ strips cut {6} 2.5″ squares.

2. Sew together all the 2.5″ squares. Press seams all one direction. Trim unit to measure 11″ long.  I just trimmed a little off the top and bottom.

3. Sew the pieces cut from the fat quarter to either side of the patchwork unit. Mine didn’t line up exactly which is fine. It doesn’t have to be perfect.

4.  Flip unit over with the patchwork unit to your left.  Line up the mark on the raindrop with the seam line running the length of the patchwork unit. Fuse in place and cut raindrop out.

Fuse Raindrops to Background

1. Fold the background rectangles in half lengthwise to create a crease.

2. Remove paper backing and center raindrop onto the rectangle. Raindrop should be about 1.5″ inches from the sides and 1.25″ from the top and bottom.  Fuse in place following webbing directions. Repeat for all raindrops.
*For the staggered layout: Adhere {2} of the SOLID and {2} of the VERTICAL raindrops to the slightly smaller (12.25″ x 10.5″) rectangles. These will go in the positions shown below. (Don’t sew the quilt top together yet, this picture just references where the smaller rectangles will go.)

3. Machine stitch around each raindrop to secure in place. This can be done in a variety of ways. You could use a zig-zag, satin, blanket (if your machine has that option), or a simple straight stitch.  For my quilts I opted to use a blanket stitch and straight stitch. With the straight stitch, I sewed about 1/4″ away from the edge of the raindrop. Note if you choose to use a straight stitch, the raw edges will fray and wear over time. This step is easiest to do BEFORE you sew the quilt top together. 

Quilt Assembly

For the regular layout:
1. Arrange the quilt units in {4} rows of {4} as shown below.

2. Sew units together in rows and press seams one direction, alternating from row to row.  Then sew rows together. Press seams one direction. Press entire quilt top.

For the staggered layout:
3. Cut 2 of the SOLID raindrops in half, NOT the slightly smaller ones. Cut the unit in half to make {2} 6.25″ x 10.5″ units. These will go in the positions below:

4. Sew units together in rows and press seams one direction, alternating from row to row.  Then sew rows together. Press seams one direction. Press entire quilt top.

5. Then baste, quilt, and bind!

 one 40″ x 48″ baby quilt

 

LeAnne Ballard

{everydaycelebrate.blogspot.com}

Quilt As You Go Improv Pillows

Hi All! This is Jera from www.QuiltingintheRain.com bringing you a creative weekend project. This pillow uses a modern Quilt as you Go technique which will be featured in my upcoming book, Quilt-As-You-Go Made Modern, to be released this Fall. I’m so excited to share this technique with you all!
 
The Quilt as you Go technique is very creative as it doesn’t follow a precise pattern. Rather, it takes on more of a improvisational style of piecing and quilting. For updates on my latest quilting endeavors, check out my Quilting in the Rain Facebook page and blog. You can also find me on Instagram. Thanks so much for stopping by and enjoy the tutorial!

Please Note – For this pillow I used leftover Layer Cake squares from the April Showers Collection by Bonnie and Camille. Leftover fat quarter scraps will work too. For the solid borders, I used Moda Solids Prairie Cloth in Buff (this material is home decor weight but has a linen/canvas feel to it). For the back of the pillow, I used Moda’s Twill (home decor weight), Nautical Ticking Stripes in Red.

For Pillow No.1 (14″ x 14″ pillow cover):

• 1 layer cake square (or a 10″ square cut from a fat quarter) 
• 1/4 yard border fabric
• 3/8 yard Backing
• 15.5″ x 15.5″ batting square (needle-punched batting)
• pillow insert

 For Pillow No.2 (16″ x 12″ pillow cover):

• 6 layer cake squares for variety (or six different fat quarter prints)
• 1/4 yard border fabric
• 3/8 yard backing  
• 17.5″ x 13.5″ batting square (needle-punched batting)
• pillow insert 

For Pillow No. 1 (14″ x 14″ pillow cover):

1.  Take a 10″ square and place it in the center of the batting. Place a few pins to help keep it down. Then, quilt it directly to the batting. As shown below, make sure your stitch starts and ends on the batting.

I did free-motion quilting with some simple loopy-loops. If you’ve never free-motion quilted before, now is a good time to try it out as it’s easier to do it on a smaller, more manageable block.

 2. From your border fabric, cut two 3.5″ strips along the length. Take a strip and trim it with fabric scissors so it’s the same length as the side of the square. With right sides facing together, sew a 1/4″ seam allowance.

3. Press open, and then quilt lines that run parallel to the seam. There will be some extra fabric hanging over the batting. As shown below, make sure your stitch starts and ends on the batting.

4. Take the strip and trim it with fabric scissors so that it measures the length of the square and strip that you just pieced together, as shown below. With right sides facing together, sew a 1/4″ seam allowance.

5. Press open, and then quilt lines that run parallel to the seam. There will be some extra fabric hanging over the batting. 

6. Repeat the previous steps until there is border fabric surrounding all four sides of the square. You are essentially piecing fabric in a log-cabin style method, but quilting it directly onto the batting as you go.

When you are finished, the entire batting will be covered and will look similar to this.

The back will look similar to this:

Flip the block over so the batting side is facing you. Trim the excess fabric sticking out side of the batting. Then, flip it over so the patchwork is facing you and trim approximately 1/4″- 1/2″ from all four sides so that your block measures 14.5″x14.5″.

7. Next, create an envelope closure for the backing. From your backing fabric, cut two 11″x14.5″ rectangles. Along the length,  turn the edge 1/4″ under, press, then turn under 1″, then press again. Stitch along the fold to keep in place to create a pretty seam. Repeat on the other rectangle as well. 

With right sides facing together, take one rectangle and align it along the left side of the pillow cover. The finished seam you created from the previous step should be facing toward the right. Pin to keep in place, then sew a 1/4″ seam allowance along the perimeter as illustrated by the dashed line below. Start and end your stitch with a back-stitch.

Repeat with the other rectangle, but align it on the right side of the pillow. Lastly, trim the corners to get rid of bulk fabric, and then turn right side out.

Insert the pillow and there you have it! 🙂

 

For Pillow No.2 (16″ x 12″ pillow cover):

Please note: For this pillow, the same exact technique that was described above (for pillow No.1) was used, except with smaller pieces of fabric. The technique I explained from the first pillow will give you the basic understanding you need to complete this next pillow. That being said, I will not list step-by-step instructions.  Rather, I have listed the order in which the strips should be pieced. Enjoy!

1. From your fabric, cut one 3″ square and a couple 2″ strips from each print (you will trim these strips as needed).

2. Start by placing the 3″ square in the center of the batting, and then quilt it. Next, add strips making sure to trim them with fabric scissors to the correct size. Add the strips in the following order, using the quilt as you go method previously described. For this pillow, I quilted straight lines that ran parallel to all of the seams. 

Tip! Fabric can shift while stitching on the batting. Correct for this by keeping the strips aligned and ‘square’ them as necessary. The seams of each successive piece should be at a 90° angle to the previous quilted piece. 

Also, please note that your pieces will shift around slightly and the batting will stretch a little – this is completely normal. So don’t expect yours to look as straight as the illustration above. =)

3. From your border fabric, cut one 5-6″ wide strip along the length. With right sides facing together, place the strip along the length of the patchwork as shown below. Overlap the strip with the patchwork as needed to straighten it out, and as mentioned in the “Tip!” above. Sew.

4. Press the strip down, and then quilt lines that run parallel to the seam. Repeat for the top so that the entire batting is covered.

5. Flip the block over so the batting side is facing you. Trim the excess fabric sticking out side of the batting. Then, flip it over so the patchwork is facing you and trim approximately 1/4″- 1/2″ from all four sides so that your block measures 16.5″x12.5″.

6. Next, create an envelope closure for the backing. From your backing fabric, cut two 11″x12.5″ rectangles. Repeat step 7 from Pillow No.1 to create the envelope closure and to finish your pillow. 

And that’s it! Quilt as you Go is a fun and different way to quilt. I hope you enjoyed learning this new improvisational technique! Now that you know the concept, you can get really creative with all the other fun Quilt as you Go pillow designs you can think up! 

(Above: Paige modeling a Quilt as you Go strip quilt using the Scrumptious collection by Bonnie and Camille).

Come visit me at www.QuiltingintheRain.com for more Quilt as you Go projects. You can also find me on Facebook and Instagram.

Let your creativity rain!

xoxo

-jera brandvig

{www.QuiltingintheRain.com}

Hourglass Star Quilt

Hello!  My name is Erica from Kitchen Table Quilting and I am here to share a quilt made with a fat eighth bundle of  Bonnie and Camille’s beautiful new April Showers collection.  This quilt is really quick to put together and it is a great way to show of some of those pretty fabrics.

1 Fat Eighth Bundle April Showers
2.5 Yards Moda Weave
1/4 Yard Teal Border Fabric
1/2 Yard Umbrella Border Fabric
1/2 Yard Binding Fabric

From your background fabric cut:
4 strips 8″xWOF.  Subcut into 16 blocks 8″x 8″.
4 strips 4.5″xWOF.  Subcut into 32 blocks 4.5″x 4.5″.
10 strips 4″xWOF.  Subcut into 64 blocks 4″x 4″.

Using the prints that will create the most contrast with your background fabric cut:
16 squares 8″x 8″
32 squares 4.5″x 4.5″

Borders:
Cut 3 strips 2.5″x WOF
Cut 3 strips 5.5″x WOF

Binding:
Cut 7 strips 2.5″x WOF

For each block you will need:
1 – 8″x 8″ print
1 – 8″x 8″ background fabric
2 – 4.5″x 4.5″ print
2 – 4.5″ x 4.5″ background fabric
2 – 4″x 4″ background fabric

 Take the 8″x 8″ background fabric square and the 4.5″x 4.5″ background fabric squares and draw a diagonal line using a washable pen onto the wrong side of the fabric.

 Place the background square together with a print square of the same size, right sides together, and sew 1/4″ away from the drawn line on either side.

 Cut along the drawn line.

 Press the seams open.

 Trim the larger blocks down to 7.5″ square and the smaller blocks down to 4″ square.  When trimming line up the diagonal on your ruler with the seam to make sure that your trimmed square will be straight.

 Admire your trimmed block.

 Arrange the blocks like the image below.

 Start by piecing together the smaller squares into pairs.

Piece together the blocks in the order illustrated in the following photos.

 Repeat to make 15 more blocks.

Sew together the border pieces to create 2 pieces 2.5″x 57.5″ for Border A and 2 pieces 5.5″x 57.5″ for Border B.

Arrange the blocks and borders as shown below.  Sew together the blocks into rows and sew the Border A and Border B pieces together.

 Sew the rows and borders together to create the finished quilt top.

Baste, quilt, and bind as desired.

Finished size: 57″x70″

Erica Jackman
{kitchentablequilting.blogspot.com}

Applique Hearts Pillow

 

Hi All! This is Jera from www.QuiltingintheRain.com bringing you this simple Applique Hearts Pillow tutorial just in time for Valentine’s day. Depending on what fabrics you use, the pillow can be used year round. This pillow has an easy envelope enclosure, making this a quick and fun weekend project that you can complete in a few hours.

Also, I wanted to share that I have a quilting book coming out this year, so come check out my blog for details (or for some great tutorials!), or follow me (and my corgi, Paige) at Quilting in the Rain’s Facebook to see my latest quilts and projects. Thank you so much for stopping by! Let your creativity rain!

• 1 yard Moda Solids Prairie Cloth in Buff (this material is home decor weight but has a linen/canvas feel to it) 
• 1 Bella Solids charm pack in Porcela, plus one scrap for the colored heart
• Clear glue that works on fabric
• Coordinating thread
• 20″ square pillow insert

1. From the prairie cloth, cut one 21″ square. For the back of the pillow, cut two 15″ x 21″ rectangles (these will be made into the envelope closure).

From the charm squares, cut hearts of varying shapes and sizes. I think the variety and imperfection of the heart shapes adds character to the pillow. To cut a big heart, simply fold a charm square in half and crease it with your finger so it stays folded. Then, use fabric scissors to cut the arch of ‘half of a heart’ along the folded edge. When you unfold it, you will have a heart shape.

 

To make smaller hearts,  repeat but cut two hearts from one charm square. 

I started by cutting approximately 8 big hearts, and then filled up the pillow with smaller and medium sized hearts. Also, from your scrap fabric cut one medium-size colored heart.

2. Next, arrange the hearts on the 21″ square.

3.Use clear glue that works on fabric to temporarily hold the hearts in place. Use very little glue as this is just an alternative to using pins and is meant to be temporary. For each heart I put the tiniest drop of glue and then spread it with my finger to make a very thin layer.

This is the glue I ended up using but i’m sure Elmers would work just as well. I just recommend getting a clear adhesive.

4. Sew the hearts in place using a regular presser foot. I simply guided the edge of my presser foot along the heart to sew a 1/4″ seam allowance, using a straight stitch setting.

If you’ve never done this before, to get around the curves of the heart you will need to stop and pivot the fabric quite often. To do this, simply stop sewing with the needle in down position, lift the presser foot and pivot the fabric underneath to follow the curve. You’ll get the hang of it. 🙂 

5. Along the length of a 15″ x 21″ rectangles,  turn the edge 1/4″ under, press, then turn under 1″, then press again. Stitch along the fold to keep in place as shown below. Repeat on the other rectangle as well.

6. With right sides facing together, take one rectangle and align it along the left side of the pillow cover. The finished seam you created from the previous step should be facing toward the right. Pin to keep in place, then sew a 1/2″ seam allowance along the perimeter as illustrated by the dashed line below. Start and end your stitch with a back-stitch.

Repeat with the other rectangle, but align it on the right side of the pillow.

Clip the corners to rid of bulk and then turn right side out through the envelope opening.

7. Lastly, rub your hands up and down the pillow to help ruffle-up the edges of the hearts. The semi-freyed and ruffled hearts adds texture to the pillow. The freying will not go beyond the stitch. 

And there you have it! A beautiful, applique heart pillow!

One fabulous 20″ x 20″ pillow

Thanks again for checking out my tutorial! Come visit me at www.QuiltingintheRain.com or follow me on Facebook at QuiltingintheRain. You can also find me on Instagram.

Let your creativity rain! 🙂

Jera Brandvig
{www.QuiltingintheRain.com}

Candy Scraps Quilt

Hello all!–I am excited to be sharing another quilt pattern with you here on Moda Bake Shop.  My name is Corey; you will usually find me blogging over at Little Miss Shabby.

I am always drawn to a great scrap quilt–they are probably some of my favorite quilts.  Moda’s mini charm packs are a perfect way to create a scrap quilt.  If you prefer a less scrappy quilt, this quilt could also be made using one regular charm pack and one mini charm pack.  Check out the end of the tutorial to see the quilt made using Mirabelle by Fig Tree Quilts.

*5 Moda Candy packs (I used From Outside In, Ducks in a Row, April Showers, Mixed Bag, & Daydream)
1 White Solid Jelly Roll
2 1/4 yard Linen Mochi Dot Unbleached Linen (32911-11)
3 1/8 yard Backing
1/2 yard Binding (I used April Showers, Teal Stripe, 55083-12)
56″ x 72″ batting

*For a less scrappy version choose one regular charm pack & one Moda Candy pack, cut each 5″ square into (4) 2.5″ squares

(48) 8 1/2″(trim a regular sized piece of paper to the correct size) pieces of copy paper; draw a diagonal line from one corner to another

A variety of 8 wt. Perle Cotton if hand quilting

Cutting Instructions

From the Jelly Roll:
Use 22 strips, cut (192) 2 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ rectangles (cut 9 from each strip)

From the Linen cut:
(16) 1 3/4″ x WOF strips; subcut (48) 1 3/4″ x 14″ strips
(7) 6″ x WOF strips; subcut (48) 6″ squares, cut diagonally once to make 96 triangles

Block Construction

~All sewing is done right sides together using a scant 1/4″ seam allowance~

Begin by sewing together the mini charm pack squares in pairs.  You will need a total of 96 pairs.  Press toward the darker fabric.

Sew a 2 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ rectangle onto each side of the units made above as pictured below.  Press to the white.

Center a 1 3/4″ x 14″ linen strip across the unmarked diagonal.  Tip: use a little bit of temp. spray adhesive to keep it in place.

Place a mini charm strip right sides together with the linen strip.  Center as illustrated.  Using a small stitch length, sew the strips together.  You will be sewing the strips onto the paper.  Press away from the center.

Sew another mini charm strip to the other side of the linen strip in the same manner.

Sew a triangle onto each side.  Center as illustrated.  Press away from the center.

Your block should now look like this:

Trim the block even with the 8 1/2″ paper.  Remove the paper to complete the block.

Make a total of (48) 8 1/2″ blocks.

Layout the blocks 6 blocks x 8 blocks.  Sew together, pressing the seams of adjacent rows in opposite directions.

Your quilt top is now complete and you can baste, quilt, and bind using your preferred methods.  For my quilt, I opted to big stitch, hand quilt using a variety of 8 wt. Perle Cotton threads.

A striped binding is the perfect addition to any quilt.

And, of course, as promised here is the quilt using all Mirabelle by Fig Tree Quilts:

One scrappy 48″ x 64″ Candy Scraps Quilt.  Perfect for snuggling under–my kids will attest to this! =)

For other fun quilts, tutorials, quilt alongs, and stitch alongs, visit my blog at Little Miss Shabby.

Corey Yoder
{www.littlemissshabby.com}

Patchwork Pot Holder

Hi everyone! My name is Hilary and I blog over at Young Texan Mama. I am really excited about sharing my first project with you over here at the Moda Bake Shop. I love working with pre-cuts and this is a simple and quick project that uses the adorable Moda Mini Charm Packs.

1 – Moda Candy Mini Charm Pack
2 – Fat Quarters
1 – 6.5″ x 6.5″ piece of cotton batting
2 – 6.5″ x 8″ piece of cotton batting
         or
1 – 6.5″ x 8.5″ piece of batting & 1 – 6.5″ x 8.5″ piece of Insul-Bright batting

Cutting:
Out of one Fat Quarter cut the following:
2 – 6.5″ sqaures
1 – 6.5″ x 8.5″ rectangle

Out of your 2nd fat quarter:
3 – 2.25″ x 22″ strips (they don’t have to be exactly 22″ just cut them from the long side of your fat quarter).

Step 1: Select 9 mini charms to be the main panel of your pot holder, and 3 mini charms to be the accent of the larger piece.

Stitch the 9 minis into 3 rows of 3. I like to chain piece my squares over sewing one at at time.

Press your seams in alternating directions, then sew the 3 rows into a 9 patch block. I like to press the seams between the rows open to reduce the bulk. You’ll be left with a 6.5″ square.

Step 2: Take your 3 remaining minis and sew into a row of 3. Press your seams in one direction, you’ll be left with a 2.5″ x 6.5″ strip. Sew this strip to one of your 6.5″ squares of fabric from your FQ.

Step 3: Using your 9 patch block, a piece of 6.5″ batting, and the remaining 6.5″ fabric square, make a quilt sandwich & quilt as desired.

 I like to baste the layers together with a couple of safety pins to keep the layers from shifting while quilting.

I quilted my piece with diagonal lines through the points of the squares, but you can quilt it however you want. I think it would look cute with loops or an all over meander. 

Step 4: Take your pieced 6.5″ x 8.5″ rectangle, your 2 – 6.5″ x 8.5″ pieces of batting (or Insul-Bright), and your 6.5″ x 8.5″ rectangle. Sandwich the 4 layers together, baste  with safety pins, and quilt. I used 2 pieces of cotton batting for the interior of my pot holder.

I’ve never had problems with 2 layers of cotton batting not being enough insulation, but if your worried, then a layer of Insul-bright would definitely protect your hand from heat. 

Step 5: Sew your 3 binding strips together, end to end, so you end up with on long strip. Press the seams open to reduce the bulk. Fold binding in half, wrong sides together, and press. Cut a 4 inch piece of binding for your loop, and cut a 6.5 inch piece of binding for the top of your square panel.

Take the 6.5 inch strip and sew it to the top edge of the main panel with a 1/4″ seam allowance. Once sewn, fold it around to the back and stitch in place. I like to machine bind mine, but if you prefer you can hand stitch it down.

This is what your main piece will look like when you’re finished. Set it aside. 

Step 6: With your mini charms facing up, baste your 2 panels together with a 1/8″ seam allowance. That will prevent shifting when you sew your binding on. Sew slowly because you’ll be sewing through several layers of fabric.

Take the 4.5″ piece and fold the ends to the center and press, creating a double fold binding. Sew along the open long edge to close it together. 

Pin and baste the loop you just created to the back of the 6.5″ x 8.5″ quilted panel. 

Step 7: Take the remainder of your binding and stitch it to your potholder with 1/4″ seam allowance. Again, sew slowly because you will be sewing through several layers of fabric. A walking foot might be beneficial for this step. 

When you get to the loop, make sure it is laying flat on the back of the pot holder. 

Step 8:  When you get back around to your starting point, make sure you have enough binding so that the 2 edges overlap about 3/4″. (I had already trimmed out the remainder of my binding at this point.)

Fold over the raw edge of one strip, and then tuck the other one inside. That way when you sew it together there are no raw edges showing. Fold the edges flat and continue sewing your seam, making sure to back-stitch where you started.

Step 9:  Once it is stitched down, fold binding to the back and pin or clip in place. If you pin, try not to sew over your pins because it could break your needle and mess up your machine. I learned that the hard way when I first learned how to sew.

Again when you get to the loop, make sure it is laying flat.When you get back around to your starting point back-stitch to secure the stitches, and you’re done!

When you’re finished you are left with 1 super adorable pot holder to spice up your kitchen!   

There are enough mini charms in a pack to make 3 pot holders, but you’ll need more of your other materials. 

I hope you enjoy making this pot holder as much as I did, and if you make it I’d love for you to share it to the Moda Bake Shop Flickr group. Thanks so much for stopping by!

Hilary Smith
{www.youngtexanmama.com}

Linked Octagons Quilt

Hi everyone! My name is Anjeanette and I blog at byAnjeanette.blogspot.com.  I am delighted to be sharing my first Moda Bake Shop project with you. I have been following Moda Bake Shop since its first recipe, and have been hooked on pre-cuts ever since. I designed a fun quilt with columns of linked Octagons. The background is a secondary pattern with the same linked octagons in columns. It is super easy to whip up with your favorite Layer Cake and some yardage. How lucky for me that I got to play with Fig Tree Quilts new Avalon line. This quilt would look awesome in a more bold line too.

1 layer cake (Avalon by Fig Tree Quilts)

3 yards Background/sashing ( Avalon Wicker Grey)

3 5/8 yards Backing fabric (Avalon Nantucket)

3/4 yards Binding (Avalon Candy Apple Red)

Batting for finished size of 62″ X 62″

* It is important to have a consistent 1/4″ seam allowance.
1. From the Layer Cake select 25 squares and cut to 9.5″ X 9.5″ squares

2. I took out all my blue blocks from the Avalon Layer Cake and cut into (20) 3.5″ X 3.5″ squares. I had to use the scraps to piece a few of these together. I just chose the fabric with the smallest scale so it wasn’t too noticeable.



3. From the background fabric cut:

         (8) WOF strips @ 3.5″ for the outside border

 

also cut

        



 (13) WOF strips @ 3.5″ subcut into:
         (16)    12.5″ X 3.5″ rectangles
         (140)  3.5″ X 3.5″ squares
          (4)     9.5″ X 3.5″ rectangles

4. Take (100) of the background 3 1/2″ squares and press diagonally in half (a). Open them up and pin to the corner of your 9 1/2″ square (b).  With right sides together, sew directly on the pressed line.  Trim to 1/4″ (c) and press open (d).  Sew all four corners this way creating your snowball block.  

 5. Make 25 Snowball blocks.

6. For the set in sashing, sew together in a strip: (1) background 3.5″ square, (1) blue 3.5″ square and (1) background 3.5″ square. Press your seams towards the blue.

7. Pin the set in sashing piece to the snowball block and sew.

8. Press the seam open. Make (20) of these blocks.

9. Sew the 12.5″ X 3.5″ rectangle to your snowball + set in sashing block.  Make (16) of these blocks.

10. For the bottom row blocks, sew (1) snowball block + (1) 9.5″ X 3.5″ rectangle together. Make (4) of these blocks.

11. Layout your blocks to your liking.



*Notice your first four rows will have (4) complete blocks and end with (1) snowball + set in sashed block. Your bottom row will have (4) snowball + sashing blocks and (1) lonely snowball block. I have included a line drawing of the layout.

 12. Carefully match seams and sew blocks into rows. Carefully matching seams again, sew rows together. 

 

13. Sew two border strips (WOF X 3.5″) together. Do this for all four sides. Sew to your quilt top and bottom. Press and  trim to the edge of the quilt. Sew side border on. Press and trim to the edge of quilt.

14. Cut strips of 2 1/2″ X WOF and piece together for binding.  

15. Make a quilt sandwich, baste, quilt, and bind using your favorite method.

I quilted the background Linked Octagons with organic (not perfect) echos of the linked Octagons to reinforce the shape and then did a big meander in the layer cake linked Octagons.  I think this red polka dot binding and the blue floral backing combination is my favorite ever.  This quilt makes me wish the winter would hurry and turn into spring so I can enjoy a picnic on it.  

A gorgeous 62″ x 62″ quilt!

Thanks for letting me share! If you decide to make a Linked Octagons Quilt, I would love to hear about it. Or just stop by to say “Hello”.

Enjoy!

Anjeanette Klinder

{byAnjeanette.blogspot.com}

Turn On The Charm Placemats

Hi there, it’s Amanda from Material Girl Quilts and I am so pleased to be back at the Moda Bake Shop today.  I am going to show you how to make a set of 4 placemats, perfect for any wedding shower gift.  And honestly, who doesn’t love a handmade gift?!

1 charm pack (Boho by Urban Chiks)
2 yards fabric for background, binding and backing (Boho basic in Meadow)

Cutting Instructions:

From yardage:
Cut three 5″ strips (for blocks) and then sub-cut those strips into 24 5″ squares
Cut eight 2 1/2″ strips (for binding)
Cut four pieces approx. 22″ x 16″ (for the backings)

Choose 36 charms and cut each into four 1 1/4″ x 5″ strips as shown below.

Assembly Instructions



*seam allowances are always 1/4″ inch

Using 6 strips from various charms per block, piece 24 – 5″ blocks, as shown below.  **Note do not press your seams until all 6 strips are pieced together.



 Press the seams all in the same direction.

Now select one pieced 5″ block and one 5″ background square. 

 With right sides together, mark a diagonal line across the back of the square as shown below.

Sew 1/4″ on each side of your marked line and cut on the line between the seams.

Open them up and you will have two half square triangles.  Press toward the background fabric.

Trim all of your half square triangles down to 4 1/2″ blocks.  Use the 45 degree line on your ruler to line up with the diagonal seam in the block.

Now choose 12 trimmed half square triangles per placemat.  The best thing about half square triangles, is that there are so many ways to lay them out and get different results.  I chose to use the layout below.

Here are just a few of my other favorite layouts with these blocks.  Play around with yours to see what you like best.

Once you have selected your layout, piece the placemat tops together, pressing your seams in alternating directions per row.

Layer your quilt top, batting and backing and quilt as desired. 

You will need two 2 1/2″ strips of binding per placemat.

Four placemats approximately 12 1/2″ x 16 1/2″ perfect for any new couple in your life!  Now maybe they will invite you over for dinner 🙂

If you make any placemats using this tutorial, I would love to see them!  You can also check out my blog for other tutorials.

Amanda Castor
{Material Girl Quilts }

Ring Around Baby Quilt

Hi There 🙂   It’s me, Melissa Corry from  Happy Quilting and I am so excited to share my Ring Around Baby Quilt!!  I really love the bold prints and colors of Zen Chic’s Comma line.  They make it so much fun to work with.  So let’s get right to it!!

1 Comma Layer Cake
1 yard of favorite black print for pieced back, I used 1513 16
1/4 yard of favorite white print for pieced back, I used 1513 11
1/3 yard of favorite print for binding, I used 1512 20
Spray Baste

STEP 1 – PIECING THE QUILT TOP

From your layer cake select the 5 black/white squares, the 3 grey/black squares, and the 8 white/black squares.  Lay them out in a 4 x 4 grid alternating black and white prints as shown.

Sew the blocks into rows.   Place the second block onto the first with right sides together and sew a 1/4″ seam along the edge as shown in row 1.  I don’t pin these, I just align as I go.  Then place the third block onto the now sewn together 1st and 2nd blocks and sew a 1/4″ seam as shown in row 2.  Repeat process for the fourth block as shown in row 4.  Press towards the black/grey blocks.

 Now you can sew the rows together.  Place Row 1 onto Row 2 and Row 3 onto Row 4 with right sides together.  Take care to nest your seams and pin in place.  Sew a 1/4″ seam along the pinned edges.  Repeat the same process to sew Row 1/2 and Row 3/4 together.

Press your rows.  Your quilt top will look something like this 🙂  Go ahead and set it aside for a bit.

STEP 2 – CUTTING THE APPLIQUE

Gather your remaining layer cake squares.  I set aside the 2 reprint squares and the square that matched my binding fabric to use on my Bonus Tutorial mentioned later.  Cut each of the remaining (21) 10″ squares into (4) 5″ squares.  For your applique, you can choose to cut perfect circles or wonky circles.

To make perfect circles . . . Fold your charm square in half with right sides together.  Then fold in half again the opposite direction.  Press the folds.  Using a compass, align the point on the folded center and draw a quarter circle.  Repeat for one to two more arcs.  Cut along the drawn lines.

And you have a varied number of rings and circles.  Feel free to change the size and amount of arcs so that you get a lot of different size and widths of rings.

To make wonky circles . . . Fold your charm square in half with right sides together.  Then fold in half again the opposite direction.  Finger press the folds.  Cut an arced shape over the folded center   Repeat for one to two more arcs.

And you have a varied number of wonky rings and circles.  Feel free to change the size and amount of arcs so that you get a lot of different size and widths of rings.  And you can really play with the wonky factor here.

Repeat for all of your 5″ squares so you end up with a pile of rings and a pile of circles.  Set the circles aside as you wont be needing them.  (They can be used in the Bonus Tutorial.)

STEP 3 – ADDING APPLIQUE TO QUILT SANDWICH 

First, you need to piece the quilt back so you can make a quilt sandwich.  Cut your yard backing piece into 2 pieces measuring as follows.  Trim the selvages from your 1/4″ fabric.  Sew the three pieces together using a 1/2″ seams.  Press the seams to the darker print.  (Sorry, I forgot to take a picture so you get a graphic.)

Create your quilt sandwich using spray baste.  The reason I suggest Spray Baste is because it will be difficult to add the applique with a whole bunch of pins in the way.  If you are new to using spray baste for creating a quilt sandwich you can see my video tutorial on how to do so.

And now you are ready to add the rings 🙂  Place approximately 4 rings in a box an spray with a coating of spray baste.  You don’t want to work with much more than that at a time or the baste will start to dry out.

Place the first ring onto your quilt top leaving a bubble where you would like to add the next ring.

Place the next ring onto the quilt top so that it links with the first.  At one of the intersections of the two rings, cut the new ring as shown.

Slide the two cut edges under the bubble of the first ring.  Press the rings in place leaving a new bubble in the second ring to add a third ring.

Continue the process.  Start new groupings and vary the size and shape of each grouping.  Some of my groups have up to 6 rings and some only two.  The more variation the better.

Continue until you have covered the entire quilt.  I ended up with about 2 rings left over.

STEP 4 – FINISHING QUILT

And now you are ready to finish the quilt.  Your quilt sandwich is already made so you can move right onto quilting.  You will want to quilt this with a rather dense FMQ design to ensure that all of those cut edges get stitched down.  I choose to do a Interlocking Circles FMQ design and you can see a video tutorial on how to do this here.  It also gives some insights on quilting with all of the raw edges.  You will have to stop occasionally and lift your presser foot and then place it on top of the edge of the applique as sometimes it tends to pop up.  You will notice a few of my circles have been pinned.  Those were for the really stubborn ones that just didn’t want to stay in place.

Once you are finished quilting all that remains is to bind it.  Cut your binding fabric into (4) 2 1/2 ” strips and bind your quilt.  I machine quilted this to add strength as it is a baby quilt.  If you are new to this you can see a video tutorial on binding here.

One adorably chic and modern Ring Around baby quilt measuring 38″ x 38″, a perfect gift for a special little one.

And . . . If you want to finish that gift off with another little handmade treasure and use up your leftover circles at the same time, pop on over to Happy Quilting for this bonus Chic Circles Car Seat Cover Tutorial.

Thank you so much for joining me and I hope you enjoyed the tutorial.  If you make your own Ring Around Baby Quilt I would love to see it.  You can add it to my Inspired by Happy Quilting Flickr group here 🙂

Have a Happy Quilting Day!!

Melissa Corry
{www.happyquiltingmelissa.blogspot.com}

The Love Bunny Skirt

Hi!  I’m one of the Elizabeth’s from over at Simple Simon and Company and today we are sharing how to make one of our favorite things—skirts for our girls. This skirt in particular was made for my Grace to wear through out both the Valentine and Easter seasons.  Here’s how I made it.

One Layer Cake:  I used “Jubilee” by Bunny Hill
1/2 Yard of Bella White
1 inch elastic
bonding material (like Heat’n Bond)

2 Pompoms for the bunny tails

Today’s skirt is a a simple tube with a gathered, elastic waistband.

To get started you will need to take just 2 measurements.  First measure the circumference of your little one’s waist.  (Grace is 18 inches.)  Next measure your little one from her waist to her knee.  (Grace is 13 inches.)  Ok, write those numbers down and save them—you’ll need them in a few minutes.

Now let’s get down to business. Choose 3 of your favorite squares from the Layer Cake and cut them each into 4  rectangles measuring 4 and 1/2 inches tall by 5 inches wide.

Next sew the squares together (in a repeating pattern) into one long strip.

(You’ll sew them right sides together.)

 When you are finished iron them nice and flat.

(This will be the patterned strip at the bottom of your skirt.)

Now we need to cut the solid white portion of your skirt.  I like my girls skirts to have some body to them so I make them as wide as the fabric is (44 inches) and as for the length…well, we’re going to have to do some math.

Right now your patterned strip for the bottom is 4 and 1/2 inches high.  But when we hem it we will loose a half inch and then when attach it to the white fabric we will loose another 1/4 of an inch so that leaves us with 3 and 3/4 inches of length for the skirt.

For Grace’s skirt I wanted it to be 13 inches long so what I did was take that 13 inch measurement and then subtract from that the 3 and 3/4 inches (from the patterned strip) which puts me at 9 and 1/4 inches.  Easy…but we aren’t done just yet. 

Now I need to add in 1 and 1/2 inches to fold over the top for the elastic casing and add an extra 1/4 inch for where the white will be sewn to the gray strip. 

So after I add this extra 1 and 3/4 inches I know that I need to cut the white portion of my skirt 11 inches long.

Which I did.  Which means I cut my white piece of fabric 11 inches long by 44 inches wide.

(The length of your white area may be longer or shorter depending on the hip to knee measurement of your little one.)

Now with right sides together sew your patterned strip to the bottom of your white strip.

Iron.

Then top stitch.

You will have a little excess patterned fabric left over on the end of your patterned strip.  Just cut that off so it is even with the end of your white fabric.

Now turn under the bottom (patterned) edge of your skirt 1/4 of an inch, iron, and sew.  Then repeat (turning it under another 1/4 inch, ironing, and sewing).  This will finish off the bottom hem of your skirt. 

  

Next we get to attach our heart and bunnies!

Select the fabric you would like for your heart and bunnies from the layer cake.

Then, following the instructions from the medium of your choice, iron on your bonding material to the back of your bunny’s fabric.

Now print out the bunny and heart template (which you can download HERE) and trace them onto your fabric.

Cut out and position them on your skirt.

(I like mine off to one side.)

Iron them on.

Next I set my machine on the following settings and stitched around all the edges of both bunnies and the heart.

Once that is finished we need to add the bunny tails which is easy—just tack on a pom pom with a needle and thread.

Now all we have left to do is close up the back of our skirt and add the elastic. 

To close up the back just fold your skirt in half, right sides together, and starting at the bottom sew your skirt together to make the back seam.  (Then top stitch if you’d like.)

Next, make the casing for your elastic. 

To do this fold the top of your skirt over (wrong sides together) 1 and 1/2 inches and iron. 

Stitch along the bottom of the fold to make the casing for your elastic. 

As you stitch leave an opening about an inch wide so you can insert your elastic.

  

To determine the length of elastic you will need take the measurement of your little one’s waist and minus one inch.  (Grace is 18 inches around so I cut the elastic for her skirt at 17 inches.) 

Cut your elastic. 

Now thread the elastic through your casing.

(I always attach a safety pin to the end of the elastic that I am threading through the casing…It makes it easier to push it through.) 

Sew the two ends of the elastic together.

Tack the elastic down in the back along the seam.

Close the opening you used for threading the elastic.

You are finished! And your little one has a brand new spring skirt!

I love this fabric. It’s so young, sweet, and clean. It is perfect for little girls and springtime!

I had so much fun with it that we ended up making Grace a bunny doll that matches her skirt.  If you’d like the pattern for her just stop over at Simple Simon and Company and check it out.

Thanks for letting us visit today.  We love any chance we get to talk about sewing and fabric!

 



One adorable skirt.

*Note you will have enough fabric left over from your layer cake to make a stuffed bunny, matching hair bows, or another skirt—especially if you have more Bella White fabric!

Simple Simon & Co.

{www.simplesimonandco.com}