Hugs & Kisses Valentine Banner


I really enjoy decorating for each holiday and lately I’ve been making seasonal banners to hang on the mantel above my fireplace. I especially LOVE Valentine’s Day and thought I’d share my most recent design with you. Below you will also see a few of the other banner’s I’ve made.
Valentine Banner

Spring Time Banner

Thanksgiving Blessings Banner

Christmas Banner

  • 1/4 yard cut of 11 fabrics from Moda’s “Giddy” Collection by Sandy Gervais for Banner Flags, Yoyo’s, and Covered Buttons
  • 1/4 Yard Red Plaid for Non Bias Binding Strip
  • Moda Wool Basics (Brown, Snow & Pinkie Coral)
  • Aunt Lydia’s Crochet Thread (Size 3-Scarlett #0006)
  • Heavyweight Heat N’ Bond
3/4″ Covered Buttons by Dritz (need 12)
Orange Yoyo Maker by Clover (make 12)
Assorted Red Buttons by Buttons Galore (need 44 or more)

Part One: Making 11 Banner Flags
1. Choose 11 fabrics from Moda’s “Giddy” Collection by Sandy Gervais

2. Open each 1/4 yard piece of fabric and press.

3. Leave each 1/4 yard folded and lay it out on the cutting board then using a rotary cutter and acrylic ruler, cut off the selvage edges. Then cut a rectangle from each of the 11 fabrics measuring 5 1/2″ x 7″ you will get two rectangles per fabric and two rectangles measuring 2 1/2″ x 5 1/2″ after squaring up the ends as seen in picture below. The leftover rectangle measuring 2 1/2″ x 5 1/2″ I cut into four 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″squares (per fabric) for a total of 44 little 2 1/2″ squares. FYI: I fussy cut the striped print because I wanted the stripes to be perfectly horizontal instead of vertical.

4. Print and cut out the Banner Flag Pattern.
5. Lay Banner Flag Pattern on each set of 2 like fabrics with the curved edge just touching one edge of fabric as seen in picture.
6. Cut the fabric along the curved edge of pattern. Repeat for remaining 10 fabrics.
7. Take one set of like fabrics and match with right sides together. Repeat for remaining 10 fabrics.

8. Sew outer edge of each curved flag seam using a 1/4″ seam allowance, starting from top right side down and around the curve and back up to the top left side. I like to chain stitch the pieces to save on thread.
9. Do NOT sew the top edge of curved flags (unfinished edge will be sewn into binding).
10. Clip Curves before turning right side out.
11. Turn right sides out and press.
Part Two: Making the Wool Circles and Letters

Ingredients:
  • 6 Ivory wool scalloped circles ( 3 3/4″ )
  • 5 Brown wool scalloped circles ( 3 3/4″ )
  • 11 Pinky Salmon Wool Letters (1-H • 1-U • 1-G • 4-S’s • 1-& • 1-K • 1-I • 1-E)
  • Aunt Lydia’s Size 3 Crochet Thread in Scarlet Red


I used my Sizzix Big Shot Shape Cutting Machine to cut out the wool letters and the wool Scalloped Circles. The Sizzix Big Shot Shape Cutting Machine (see links provided) is readily available and the scalloped circle is also available for purchase from the Sizzix Website but the letters I used are a much older set that I’ve had for a many years now. I’ve included a few fonts that are similar to the font I used. Check out the “Printer Friendly Format” that you can use to download the patterns for the letters and the banner flags along with the project tutorial.



1. First lay down the acrylic cutting pad then place the Scalloped Circle Die facing up.
2. Center and place wool or fabric or paper on top of the cutting die.
3. Place the second acrylic cutting pad on top of the stack.
4. Rotate handle to roll the stack through the Sizzix Big Shot Shape Cutting Machine. Remove top acrylic cutting pad to expose the cut piece of wool, fabric, or paper.



5. The steps for cutting the letters is basically the same as the scalloped circle except that you will need to make sure that your Heat N’ Bond paper is facing up so after the letters have been cut they will face the right direction after taking off the paper.



6. Make sure that you have all the pieces stacked in the correct order before rolling through the cutting machine.


7. After you roll the stack through the cutting machine remove the acrylic cutting pad to expose the cut wool letters.


8. Separate the letters from the rectangle of wool then remove the paper backing.

 
9. Place a letter in the center of each scalloped circle making sure to follow the color order of the circles. Fuse the letters to the scalloped circles following the directions on the Heat N’ Bond
packaging.


10. Use the size 3 crochet thread to sew on the scalloped circles. The circles are stitched through both layers of the fabric flag. Make sure the beginning and ending knots are hidden on the inside of the flag. Sew this before the banner flags are attached and sewn into the binding strip.


Part Three: Making the Binding Strip
1. Cut 3 Strips measuring 2 1/2″ x Width of Fabric for a total of approximately 120″ of binding FYI: Normally I would make bias binding strips but the plaid fabric is printed to appear as it would if you were to cut bias strips so just cut them on the straight of grain to retain that bias look.
2. Sew seams together to create one continuous strip.
3. Lay strip lengthwise on ironing board.
4. Fold fabric in half: length to length and press.
5. Open. Take bottom raw edge and fold toward pressed center. Press fold. Repeat for the opposite edge and press fold.
6. Now fold pressed edges together to encase the raw edges of binding inside.

7. Give binding another good press.
Part Four: Putting Together the Banner
1. Take your Binding Strip and find the center by folding it end-to-end. Then mark the center with a pin.
2. Find the Curved Flag that goes in the middle of banner. In this case, it’s the letter “K”.
3. Open the binding strip. The flags will be sandwiched in between the opening of the binding strip. Place the center of the center flag in the center of the binding strip.

4. Close binding strip over the flags and pin each in place.
5. The Spacing between each flag is 1″.
6. Make sure flags are in correct order H • U • G • S • & • K • I • S • S • E • S.
7. Sew a narrow seam along the edge of binding strip to encase the flags inside.
Part Five: Embellishing the Banner

12 Covered Buttons (Size 3/4″)

Assorted Red Buttons (need at least 33-I used 44)

This part of the tutorial is totally optional, although it does add a lot of cuteness and pizazz to the banner. You so want to do it, right? It did take me several hours to make the yoyo’s, the covered buttons, and then to attach them to the banner. Plus, I had to sew on the 44 red buttons but, it was totally worth it!
FYI: I bought my set of 300 buttons at the craft store a few years back but you can get the same set of buttons HERE.
To make the 3/4″ covered buttons for the centers of the yoyo’s I used some of the plaid fabric in brown, red and pink. Follow the directions on the package for making covered buttons.
I also used the leftover fabric to make the 12 yoyo’s that are sewn in between each flag. I used all of the fabrics and one of the brown fabrics I used twice. Follow the directions inside the Yoyo package for making the yoyo’s.


1 Hugs & Kisses Valentine Banner but you could make a 2nd one too!
Happy Valentines Day
Hugs & Kisses,

Kim Walus

*Please set page scaling to “none” in order for the templates to print at the correct size!*

Christmas Advent Pockets

I designed this Christmas Advent Quilt for my children, my grandchildren, and for each of YOU. The quilt has 25 pockets that are perfect for hiding treats, small toys, coins, or even different Christmas activities that you can do with your children or grandchildren. I hope you are inspired to make this Christmas Advent a yearly tradition with your family.
I’m sorry about the last minute inspiration (sometimes that’s how it comes) but thinking on the positive side of things. . . did you realize that you can take advantage of the Christmas Fabric Sales? Now hurry out and hit those sales and start working on it today so it will be ready for next year.

Finished Quilt Size: 37″ x 53″
Finished Block Size: 7 1/2″ x 7 1/2″

  • 1 Layer Cake of “Fruitcake” by Basic Grey for Moda
  • 4 Fat Quarters of Moda Wool in Red, Ivory, Black, and Teal
  • 1/2 yard Red fabric for block borders
  • 1/2 yard White fabric for block borders
  • Heavyweight Heat & Bond for numbers
  • 13″ of Brown Snowflake fabric for large border
  • 1/4 yard of Brown Polka Dot fabric for small border
  • 2 yards fabric for quilt backing
  • 2 yards batting for quilt
  • 2 yards Red Medium Ric Rac
  • 2 yards Green Medium Ric Rac
  • 2 yards Teal Medium Ric Rac
  • 2 yards Brown Medium Ric Rac
  • 2 1/4 yards Red Jumbo Ric Rac

Part One:
Cutting the Layer Cake for Advent Pockets
& Fabric Yardage for Block Borders

1. Choose 25 fabric squares from the Layer Cake then separate them from the pack.

2. From each of the 25 squares you will cut the following:

  • Cut 1 foundation square 5″ x 5″ for inside pocket lining
  • Cut 1 rectangle 1 1/2″ x 5″ for top portion of pocket
  • Cut 1 rectangle 2 1/4″ x 5″ for top pocket binding/lining
  • Cut 1 rectangle 3 1/2″ x 5″ for bottom portion of pocket
  • Cut 1 rectangle 4 1/4″ x 5″ for bottom pocket binding/lining
3. You will be making 13 Red Blocks and 12 White Blocks for a total of 25 Blocks.
4. From the 1/2 yard cut of red and white border fabric, cut the following:
  • Cut 26 red rectangles 2″ x 5″ for side borders
  • Cut 26 red rectangles 2″ x 8″ for top and bottom borders
  • Cut 24 white rectangles 2″ x 5″ for top and bottom borders
  • Cut 24 white rectangles 2″ x 8″ for side borders

Part Two:
Making the Advent Pockets

1. Cut 2 pieces of Ric Rac measuring 5 1/4″ out of any color you wish to use.
2. Choose the outside pocket fabric for the top and bottom pieces measuring 1 1/2″ x 5″ and 3 1/2″ x 5″

3. Then choose the matching top and bottom binding/lining fabric pieces measuring 2 1/4″ x 5″ and 4 1/4″ x 5″

4. Place the 1 1/2″ x 5″ piece with right side facing up on your sewing table. Then sandwich the Ric Rac in the middle with the 2 1/4″ x 5″ piece of fabric with right side facing down on top of the Ric Rac. Pin in place to prevent any shifting. Sew the seam using a 1/4″ seam allowance.

5. Repeat this process for the bottom portion of the advent pocket. You will use the two pieces measuring 3 1/2″ x 5″ and 4 1/4″ x 5″


6. Open the two fabrics revealing the Ric Rac inside. Press the larger fabric piece up and over and around toward the back of the pocket. This forms the pocket binding and the inner lining of the advent pocket.
7. Trim off any excess lining fabric.

8. Place the finished top and bottom pocket pieces on top of a 5″ x 5″ foundation square with the right side facing up. Make sure the bottom edge of the top pocket and top edge of the bottom pocket meet. Baste pockets at both sides of pocket opening to secure the pocket to the 5″ x 5″ foundation square.

9. Turn pocket over and trim any excess to match the 5″ x 5″ foundation square.


10. Repeat this process for the remaining 24 advent pockets.

Part Three:
Adding the Borders to Pockets


1. Divide your advent pockets into two groups. Group One will have 13 blocks with red borders and Group Two will have 12 blocks with white borders. Remember when it comes to dividing the blocks into groups that it’s important to have contrast between the advent pockets and the border fabric. For example, you wouldn’t put a red advent pocket with the red border fabric but, you would pair it with the white border fabric. The same holds true for the light advent pockets. The other 3 colors (teal, brown, and green) can be paired with either the white or the red borders.
2. The red border strips measuring 2″ x 5″ are sewn to the left and right sides of the advent pockets and the 2″ x 8″ border strips are sewn to the top and bottom of the red blocks.
3. The white border strips measuring 2″ x 5″ are sewn to the top and bottom of the advent pocket and the 2″ x 8″ border strips are sewn to the left and right sides of the advent pockets.

4. All seams are sewn using a 1/4″ seam allowance and seams are pressed outward, away from the advent pockets.



Part Four:
Finishing the Quilt


1. Take the 25 finished blocks and lay them out in the following order:
  • Row One: red, white, red, white, red.
  • Row Two: white, red, white, red, white.
  • Row Three: red, white, red, white, red.
  • Row Four: white, red, white, red, white.
  • Row five: red, white, red, white, red.
2. Sew blocks and rows together using a 1/4″ seam allowance. Press the block seams toward the red blocks and the row seams can alternate up then down on each row.
3. Now measure across the top row of blocks (it should be 37 1/2 inches). Cut two borders measuring 6 1/2″ x 37 1/2″ out of the brown fabric with snowflakes and two smaller borders measuring 3″ x 37 1/2″ out of the brown polka dot fabric.
4. Cut two pieces of Red Jumbo Ric Rac measuring 40.” This will allow for any fraying that can be trimmed off later.
5. Baste Ric Rac in place, making sure to line up Ric Rac so that when you baste it onto the fabric, the stitching line will barely cross over the curves in the Ric Rac. Trim off the tops of the Ric Rac as seen in picture.
6. Place smaller binding on top of the Ric Rac with right sides together. Sew seams using a 1/4″ seam allowance. Press seams toward the darker fabric making sure the Ric Rac lays on top of the polka dot fabric. Repeat for both bottom borders.


7. Take the two finished borders and sew one to the top of the quilt and the other one to the bottom of the quilt using a 1/4″ seam allowance. Press seam toward the brown polka dot fabric.

Part Five:
Attaching the Numbers
I used 4 different colors of Moda Wool but you are NOT limited to using wool if you don’t have access to wool in your area. You may use any leftover layer cake squares to make the numbers in place of the wool.
I used a heavy duty Heat N’ Bond for the wool but I would use a lighter weight or medium weight if you decide to use fabric for the numbers. I tried to use the color of wool on each pocket that gave the best contrast. You can do the same if you use fabric. Remember that contrast is important.
To make the numbers, I used my Sizzix Die Cut Machine (an older version) along with a set of number dies (that are no longer available) to cut out the numbers. I realize that most of you won’t have access to a die cut machine so, I’ve included 4 different fonts that are very similar to the dies that I used. I’ve included the numbers in the pdf download file for this pattern. You may also choose to create your own numbers by using any computer program like WORD or PAGES. You will want the numbers to be approximately 1 1/4″ in height.

1. Follow the instructions for using the Heat N’ Bond product especially if you haven’t used it before. In the printer friendly version below, you will see that I’ve already flipped the numbers so you can easily trace the numbers to the paper side of the Heat N’ Bond.
2. Cut around the outside of each number (NOT on the traced line).
3. Press each number(s) with shiny side down on the wrong side of fabric or on either side of the wool.
4. Using sharp scissors now cut out each number on the traced line.
5. Center the number(s) in the middle of the bottom half of the pocket, then press the numbers with your heated iron to activate the Heat N’ Bond.
6. Now it’s ready to take to the Quilter. A special Thank You goes to Kaylene Perry who willingly fit my quilt in to her busy quilting schedule. Kaylene has been my quilter and friend for many years now. Didn’t she do a marvelous job quilting it? I love it!!!
Merry Christmas Everyone!
To CELEBRATE my 50th Birthday. . .
I’m having a giveaway!
So, if you want to play along visit me HERE.
See You There!

1 Advent Pocket Quilt

The Faux Cami




Finished Size: 10″ x 8″

Today’s fashions suggest using multiple layers of clothing and I for one have issues with wearing multiple layers of clothing. In other words. . . I’m ALWAYS HOT. . . so. . . multiple layers of clothing just don’t work for me. Because of this problem with always feeling HOT, I decided to figure out a solution for myself and this is what I came up with.

The Faux Cami is a “Quick and Easy Solution” to the Summer Heat while adding a splash of color to just about any outfit. It’s my hope you will find this post useful.

Design Notes: I LOVE white shirts so, I started out with a Moda Bella Solid White and then went out and bought 9 other colors from the Collection of Moda Bella Solids. I also picked out spools of Prescenia Thread that matched the colors of the fabric I picked. I used a twin needle by Schmetz to create 10 rows of pin tucking on each Faux Cami.

Have fun making these customizable Faux Cami’s.



These are the items you will need to make at least One Faux Cami:

  • 1 Fat Quarter of any color from the Moda Bella Solids Collection
  • 1/3 yard Lightweight Fusible Interfacing-EK 130 Easy Knit by Pellon
  • 8″piece of 5/8″ White Grosgrain Ribbon by Offray
  • Snap Kit with Tool -Size 16 Snaps by Dritz
  • Matching Thread by Presencia
  • Twin Needle Size 4,0/80 by Schmetz
  • Tape Measure for making a customized fit


Add some glitz with Ribbon, Lace or Trim!
I’d LOVE to see pictures if you play around with it.

Part One:
Customizing the Fit

1. PRINT the Faux Cami Pattern on card stock and cut it out. Center it on your chest between bra straps to see if it fits. If it doesn’t fit. . . you can customize the fit by following the instructions below.

2. Grab a measuring tape and take your measurements. I’m calling this your T-Zone Measurement. Measure across your chest from bra strap to bra strap and make note of the measurement. This will be the horizontal measurement in the letter T.

3. Now find the base of your neck below your chin and from there go down about 2-3 inches and then measure from that spot down to the bottom edge of bra. This will be the vertical line measurement in the letter T.

4. Remember that the measurement needs to take into consideration what feels comfortable to you. You don’t want it so high that it chokes you and you don’t want it so low that you can’t see it.

Important: If your “customized” measurements are bigger than 10″ x 8″ you will also need to make allowances in the size of your fabric piece. For example: if your T-Zone measurement is 12″ x 10″ you will want to turn your fat quarter to cut a piece that will measure 12″x20″ to allow for the fold. If your T-Zone measurement is smaller, you can use the same size fabric piece as in the instructions just shrink the pattern to fit you and then cut out your pattern.

Part Two:
Fabric • Twin Needles • Thread • Fusible Interfacing


Fabric: Here are the Moda Bella Solids I picked along with the matching Presencia thread. Click on the picture to see the color number on each spool. Fabric Colors top to bottom: Black, Red, Blue, Peach, Aqua, Purple, Green, Pink, Cream, and White. You will not see thread for black and white since I have those colors on hand.


Twin Needles:
It’s very important that you read your sewing machine manual for any instructions given on threading your machine when using twin needles. My machine has two spindles for the two spools of thread that are used with twin needles and I bought two twin needles just in case I broke one. Here’s a little Tip: You may notice in the picture a single needle in one of the cases, well, that’s the single needle I store in the needle case while I’m using the twin needle in my sewing machine. When I’m done I switch the needles out.


Thread: Instead of buying two spools of thread I bought one spool and wound some of the thread on a bobbin for the second spool of thread. I also used an additional bobbin filled with white thread for the bobbin case that way I didn’t need to change my bobbin thread every time I changed colors.


Fusible Interfacing:I used a lightweight Easy Knit Fusible Interfacing by Pellon

Part Three:
Making the Faux Cami

Before you begin sewing, make sure that the twin needle is inserted correctly and that your machine has been threaded according to your machines instructions. You are ready to begin.

1. Cut 1 piece of fabric measuring 11″ x 17″

2. Match up the 11″ ends and then press the fold (piece will measure 11″ x 8 1/2″)

3. Open up the fabric to reveal the pressed fold line.

4. Place the fabric on your sewing table with the pressed fold line going in a vertical position.

5. Sew your first pin tuck by lining up the edge of your presser foot along the pressed fold line.


6. Now line up the edge of your presser foot along the first pin tuck line and sew a second pin tuck. Make sure to make your pin tuck lines as straight and even as possible.


7. Continue this process until you have completed 10 rows of pin-tucking.

8. Fold fabric in half again along the previously pressed line. Give it a light press. You will notice a slight uptake in the top fabric at the bottom edge of fabric. It’s normal and the 10″ x 8″ pattern will fit just fine.

9. If you haven’t printed or made your own customized pattern, do it now. Here’s a picture of the pattern that you can print. Find the “Printer Friendly” button at the bottom of the post and download and print the PDF file of the pattern and instructions.

10. Lay the pattern along the fold line. Cut out fabric.


11. Take the fusible interfacing that measures 10″ x 8″ and lay down your pattern. Cut out one piece of fusible interfacing.

12. Open up the fabric fold to reveal inside (wrong side) of Faux Cami. You will fuse the interfacing to the inside of the back side of Cami. Refer to pictures. Press with iron to adhere interfacing.


13. Fold the Cami closed. The interfacing should now be fused inside the cami.


14. Serge or zig zag the 4 raw edges of the Faux Cami.

Part Four:
Attaching the Ribbons and Snaps

Since most of us are visual learners I thought it would be fun to make a video tutorial for the Faux Cami Tutorial. The video is called, “How to Attach a Snap.”

FYI: The video I posted here is cutting off the right side of the video screen so if you want to see the HD Widescreen version you can go to YouTube.

1. Follow manufacturers instructions for attaching snaps. Before putting the two sides of snaps together you will be adding the ribbon in between both snaps.


2. Take the pronged snap and place in the upper front right corner of the cami and push prongs through to the back. Then place it on the snap tool in the #16 hole.

3. Now take the 8″ ribbon and cut it half. Take one piece and fold under one end of the ribbon by 1/2″ and place it over the prongs making sure the prongs poke through the ribbon. Place the other half of the snap (the one with the knob) over the ribbon and close the snap tool. Use a small hammer and give it a few good whacks.


4. Now take the other raw edge of ribbon and fold it under 1/2″ and then fold again. Take another prong and push it through the front side of ribbon. Place in snap tool. The folded ribbon faces up when the back of cami is facing up. Now place the donut looking snap on top of the prongs and close snap tool. Give it a few whacks with a hammer.


5. Repeat this process for the ribbon on the opposite side of Cami.

6. Snap in your Faux Cami to your bra straps, and off you go.

Have fun with your cami’s and try decorating them with ribbon, trim, or even a bit of glitz.

Stay COOL!!!


2 Faux Cami’s from each fat quarter (based on the pattern measurement of 10″ x 8″)

Crochet Clutch


I’ve always wanted to learn how to crochet but never had anyone to show me the finer details of crocheting. I’ve made an effort from time to time. I could even do a simple stitch around a baby blanket but I could never quite figure out the crochet language in pattern books. Over the years I moved on to other things but kept wanting to come back to crocheting. I recently found that all I needed was someone to show me the way (thanks to my NZ Auntie). Like many of you, I’m a visual learner. It’s much easier to be shown than to read instructions. lol.

So, now that I’m really into crocheting I find that I keep losing my crochet hooks and that I really didn’t have a good place to keep them. They are really easy to misplace, especially with children around.

This Moda Bake Shop project is dedicated to all of you quilter’s and crafter’s who love to crochet.

  • 4 Fat Quarters of your choice. ( I used Moda’s “Make Life” by Sweetwater)
  • 7″ Zipper to match your fabric choice
  • 1/2″ Magnetic Snap by Dritz
  • Heavy Clear Plastic (I bought mine in the fabric section at Walmart)
  • 1 1/4″ D-Ring by Dritz for purse handle (optional)

  • Crocheted Flower to match your color scheme.
  • 7/8″ Covered Button Kit (by Dritz) to make a matching covered button for the center of the flower.

Please Note: I’m sorry that I don’t speak crochet language well enough to help you with the flower but there are lots of tutorials available on the internet for help in making crocheted flowers. There are also many wonderful Crochet books available, too. I may decide, at some point to post a video tutorial on my blog of the flower I made, if anyone is interested.

Step One:Download the Pattern

1. Print the pattern and use it to make the curve for the flap on the Crochet Clutch.

Step Two:
Cutting Out the Fabric Pieces

Here’s a picture of the pieces you’ll need to make the Crochet Clutch (except the optional handle which you find at the end).


1. Cut One rectangle measuring 9″ x 18″ out of each of the following items:

  • One piece of Heavyweight Fusible Interfacing
  • One piece of Cotton Batting
  • One piece of Fabric for inside of clutch
  • One piece of Fabric for outside of clutch

2. Stack all four layers (two fabrics, 1 batting, 1 fusible interfacing) and then place the curved pattern piece on the top of the stack, making sure to line up the sides and butt the pattern up to the top edge of your stack. Note: if your fabric has writing or a directional print please make sure that it is facing up on the outside and inside of bag.

3. Trace the curve for the top flap with a pencil. Cut along the pencil line.

4. Draw a gentle curve for the bottom two corners of the crochet clutch. Cut along the pencil line.

Step Three:
Making the Zippered Pocket

  • Cut 4 pieces measuring 1 1/2″ x 9″ (zipper sides)
  • Cut 2 pieces measuring 2″ x 4″ (zipper ends)

1. Take the two pieces that measure 2″ x 4″ and fold in half. Finger press.

2. Open the fabric and place the pressed line in the fabric close to the zipper end. Sew along the pressed line. Repeat for the opposite end of zipper. Center the zipper within 9″ on the cutting mat and trim off the excess.

3. Now take two of the four pieces that measure 1 1/2″ x 9″ and with right sides together place a strip of fabric on the top and bottom of one side of the zipper. Use your zipper foot to sew a seam close to the zipper opening. Press the seams open.

4. Repeat for the opposite side of zipper. (See photo below)

5. With the zipper pull facing to your right fold the length of the top fabric piece in toward the zipper about 3/8″ then press. Repeat for the bottom fabric piece.

6. Slip the 9″ (length) x 7″ (width) piece of mid to heavy weight plastic in between the two pressed fabric pieces. Now sew a seam close to the edge of fabric thus securing the plastic in place.

Step Four:
Making the Crochet Hook Pocket (*CHP)
  • Cut One piece of fabric measuring 9″ x 8 3/4″ then fold in half so the width remains 9″ and the height will be be 4 3/8″
  • Cut one biased piece of striped fabric measuring 2 1/2″ x 9″ fold in half lengthwise and the fold the ends in once again. Press.

1. Insert the folded edge of the *CHP inside the bias pocket binding. Sew close to the edge of the binding to secure the pocket in place.


2. Now measure 4″ and fold the raw edges inward. Press. This is where the other side of plastic will be sewn and secured into place.

Step Five:
Making the Pin & Needle Keeper
  • Cut one piece of matching wool or felt measuring 3 1/2″ x 7″

1. Pin pattern on wool/felt then cut out.

2. Take the 9″ x 18″ inside piece of fabric and the 9″x 18″ piece of batting and place the batting on the wrong side of the fabric.

3. Measure down 4″ from the top. Center and line up the bottom edge of wool/felt right at or barely above what will become the fold line on the flap of the clutch.

4. Sew the wool/felt in place.

5. Use matching Ric Rac or other trim and then sew it around the outside edge of wool/felt piece.

Step Six:
Putting the Pieces Together

The left fabric piece (as seen below) is the front of the crochet clutch with the fusible interfacing ironed to the wrong side of fabric and the right fabric piece is the inside of the Crochet Clutch with the batting on the wrong side of fabric.

1. On the inside piece of fabric in addition to the wool/felt pin keeper you will add the *CHP and the zippered pocket.

2. First measure down from the top 7″ and place your *CHP.

3. Next, place the zippered pocket on top of the inside fabric with the zipper at the bottom of the clutch with the plastic facing up toward the *CHP. There should be plenty of plastic to insert in the opening at the pressed bottom of the *CHP. Trim off any plastic excess to within 1/2″ of where you will sew the seam to secure the plastic.

4. Now sew the *CHP seam to secure the pocket on the fabric and the batting.

Step Seven:
Attaching the Magnetic Clasp

1. You will want to attach the top magnetic clasps before you sew the front and back together.

2. The top clasp is attached to the top of the inside of Crochet Clutch.

(Back view of magnetic clasp)

(Front view of magnetic clasp)


3. Now place the front and back with wrong sides together. Pin the layers around the top half.

4. The bottom clasp is attached to the outside fabric at the bottom of the Crochet Clutch.

5. Make sure to lift up the bottom of the inside fabric to expose the batting, the fusible interfacing and fabric for the outside of crochet clutch.

6. Fold your bag to check for placement of magnetic clip. Mark the spot with a pencil.

7. Attach magnetic clip. Use a straight edge to cut small holes to insert the prongs.

(Inside view of the front of crochet clutch)

(Close up: Back View of Magnetic Clasp)

Step Eight:
Making the Optional Handle
  • Cut one strip of fabric 22″ x 5″
  • Cut one strip of cotton batting 22″ x 5″


1. Fold fabric in half lengthwise. Press.

2. Fold raw edges into the center seam. Press

3. Open folds and insert the cotton batting. Refold.

4. Sew a seam close to the outside edge on both sides of the strap.

5. Sew a second seam a 1/4″ inside of each seam that you’ve just sewn.

6. Cut a 17″ length for the handle.

7. Cut a 1 1/2″ length to attach the D-Ring to the Clutch.

8. Fold the 1 1/2″ length in half making sure the D-Ring is inside the fold. Attach by sewing to the back of the outside of clutch. See placement below. Make sure to do this before finishing off the binding.

Step Nine:
Binding and Finishing
  • Cut 60″ of bias binding for the perimeter of the Crochet Clutch

1. After attaching the clasp, fold the fabric back in place and finish pinning around the perimeter of the crochet clutch.

2. Sew around the perimeter using a longer stitch length to secure everything in place.

3. Attach your bias binding on the inside of the crochet clutch. Make sure to include the optional handle at this point (see instructions for the handle in part nine).


4. Press the binding outward making sure not to iron the plastic.

5. Sew the binding by hand to finish it off.

Step Ten:
Grab your Crochet Clutch you’re ready to Crochet.



One Crochet Clutch with Optional Handle

You’ve Got Mail


I’ve had this idea running around in my head for a few years now and I’m just getting around to making a Valentine Sweetheart Mailbox for the back of my chairs. I thought it would be a great place to hold all of the Valentine Cards and Love Notes that we like to give each other. I definitely plan on making one for every chair in my kitchen.

If you’ve been following me on my blog, you’re probably thinking that this looks familiar. We’ll you’re right. I’ve actually made a smaller stuffed version to hang on a doorknob or peg. You can have a look at it HERE.

  • 5 Fat Quarters from the “Sent With Love” Collection by Deb Strain
  • Freezer Paper (for making patterns)
  • 20 inches of Peltex Stabilizer by Pellon (for making Sweetheart Mailbox)
  • 1/2 yard Fuse-A-Shade (for making Love Letter Envelopes)

Sent with Love Collection
by Deb Strain

  • 1/2 yard of Red Ric Rac
  • Kanzashi Flower (Find the Tutorial HERE) My squares are cut @ 3 1/2″ x 3 1/2″
  • Covered Button (I used one 5/8″ covered button)

Making the Sweetheart Mailbox:

1. Print the paper patterns. It’s a larger pattern and is printed in sections. The pattern will print on 3 pages of 8 1/2″ x 11″ paper. Two pages for the heart and one page for the envelope.

Click here to print patterns.

2. Cut out the paper patterns and tape or glue the pieces together.

3. Tear a few pieces of Freezer Paper to make the patterns.

4. Transfer and trace both halves of the heart pattern, pocket pattern, and scallop pattern onto the freezer paper, as seen in the picture below.


5. Fold one side of your pink polka dot FQ with right sides together (18″ side). Place the top straight edge along the top edge of the fabric. Trace the scallop edge and sides. Trim off the excess fabric above the pattern, as seen in the picture.


6. This is a VERY important step. Make sure to SEW along the pencil line that you just traced in the previous step. When you are done you will trim a 1/4″ beyond the sewn line, as seen in the picture.


7. Clip the curves and valleys, as seen in the picture.


8. Next you will sew the scallop into the top edge of the pocket. To do this, you will center the scallop on one side of the fabric pocket along the top edge. Then place the back fabric pocket piece on top making sure that the right sides of the fabric are together with the scallop sandwiched in between.

Here’s the order you will stack the pieces for the pocket.

  • Peltex (for stability)
  • Back pocket piece with right side facing up
  • Scallop
  • Front pocket piece with right side facing down

9. Then sew a 1/4″ seam. Open the pocket pieces to expose the scallop edge. Press.

10. Baste the pocket to one of the fabric hearts using a 1/4″ seam.


11. Next make the Ties by cutting four pieces of fabric that measure 3 1/2″ x 22″ in length.

12. Fold the ties in half, lengthwise with right sides together. Sew a 1/4″ seam along the long edge and one short end. Clip corners.

13. Turn the ties right side out and press.

14. You now have the pieces you’ll need to assemble the Sweetheart Mailbox.

15. Make sure you have the following pieces:

  • One peltex heart shape piece for the inside
  • Front and back fabric pieces
  • Front pocket with scallop already sewn in
  • Four fabric ties (make sure they are secured in the right place)

16. Here’s the order you will stack the pieces.

  • Peltex Heart
  • Front of Heart with the right side facing up. Make sure to pin down center scallop so it doesn’t get sewn in to the seam of heart. Secure and pin ties.
  • Back of Heart with the right side facing down. Secure with pins.


17. Now sew a 3/8″ seam making sure not to catch the outside edges of the scallop. Leave at least a 5 inch opening along one of the straight edges of the heart.

18. Clip the curves.

19. Turn the heart right side out and press the seams.


20. Sew on the red ric rac just below the top edge of pocket, as seen in the picture.


21. Yippee! You’ve finished making your Sweetheart Mailbox. Tie it to your chair and you’re ready to recieve some Valentine Mail!

Finished Size: 14″ x 14″

Making the Love Letter Envelopes:

I thought it would be fun to make a fabric envelope to go with the Sweetheart Mailbox. I wanted a traditional looking envelope so this is what I came up with. Hope you like it.

1. Start off by taking an 8 1/2″ x 11″ piece of cardstock and popping it in your printer before copying the envelope pattern.

2. Cut two fabric pieces that measure 6″ x 12″ and one piece of fuse-a-shade that measures 6″ x 12″ then press the fuse-a-shade to the wrong side of one of the fabric pieces following the directions on the printed material that comes with the product.

3. Trace the envelope on the wrong side of the other piece of fabric that measures 6″ x 12″ as seen in the picture below.

4. This is a VERY important step. Make sure to SEW on the pencil line that you just traced. Remember to leave at least a 3-4 inch opening to turn the envelope.

5. Then cut a 1/4″ outside of the pencil line making sure to clip the corners.

6. Turn and Press the seams.


7. You can make a heart sticker to seal your envelope by cutting out two fabric hearts and one heart out of batting. With right sides together and the batting on the outside. Sew on the pencil line and then cut out a 1/4″ beyond the line. Clip curves. Turn and press.


8. Fold the bottom part of the envelope and sew the side seams. Make sure the flap opens.

9. Place the heart on the flap of the envelope and sew around the edge of the heart to secure it.

Finished Size of Envelope: 4″ x 6 1/2″

10. You are now done making your envelope and you can pick other fabrics to make more of them.


11. You can also make homemade Valentine Cards by cutting a piece of cardstock that measures approximately 3″ x 6″ and decorating it with stamps, stickers and scrapbook paper. Be creative and have some fun with it.

Send me pictures if you make this project
or upload them to Moda Bake Shop’s flicker account.
I would LOVE to see pictures of any cards, letters,
and mailboxes that you make!!!


1 Heart Mailbox
1-2 Love Letter Envelopes

Happy Valentine’s Day

Hugs & Kisses, Kim

Plates for Your Table



This project is my version of a common block called Dresden Plate. I love this traditional block and started thinking . . . wouldn’t this make a wonderful plate charger for my table and that was the start of my inspiration for this month’s Moda Bake Shop project. I really fell in love with Bonnie & Camille’s “Simple Abundance Collection” that’s now available in stores. It looks so great with the colors I have in my home.

This is a HUGE post but there are FOUR projects within this ONE post. I’ve included instructions for each of the four projects. You can make one of the projects or all of them. The projects are listed in the following order within this post:

  • Part One: Making the Dresden Plate Charger
  • Part Two: Making the Fat Quarter Napkins
  • Part Three: Making the Napkin Rings
  • Part Four: Making the Dresden Plate Table Runner


  • One Fat Quarter Bundle of “Simple Abundance” by Bonnie & Camille
  • 3 yards of Cream Background Print #55011-19 for Hourglass Units & Quilt Backing
  • 2/3 yards of Cream on Cream Floral #55017-19 for Background Block in Table Runner
  • 2/3 yards of Green & Brown Stripe #55014-13 for Binding
  • 15″ x 15″ piece of felted Cream colored Moda Wool for each 13″ Dresden Plate Charger
  • Stack-n-Whack 18 degree Fan Ruler by Bethany S. Reynolds
  • Triangle Square Up Ruler by Eleanor Burns
Cutting Diagram to use for cutting up your fat quarters.

Added Note: Please refer to the cutting diagram below. The measurement for Letter A is typed incorrectly and should read 4″ x 4″ squares. Also the first “A” at the top of the diagram that looks like a rectangle should be marked letter “D” it’s actually leftover. This information will not print in the printer friendly version of the pattern.


  • 2 Small Buttons per Napkin Ring
  • Coordinating Embroidery Floss for finishing Dresden Plate Chargers

Part One: Making the Dresden Plate Chargers
(Finished Size: 13″ Round)

1. The method for making the Dresden Plate Units is the same no matter what size you decide to make. In this portion of the tutorial I will be using the 3″ x 6″ rectangles for making the Dresden Plate Chargers.

Begin making your Dresden Plate Units by picking out 20 darker fabrics from your Fat Quarter Bundle. Make sure to cut out the strips along the 22″ length of your fat quarter so you will have plenty of room to square up your strips and rectangles.

For Each Plate Charger cut 1 set of 20 rectangles:

  • Cut each strip 3″ x 22″ Sub cut each strip into three 3″ x 6″ rectangles.


2. Using the Stack n’ Whack 18 degree Fan Ruler you will cut out the 20 spokes for each dresden plate unit making sure to align your ruler on the fabric in between the zero and the 6″ line. Trim off the excess fabric on both sides.


3. Arrange each spoke in the position that you desire or you can follow the layout in the picture.


4. Starting with the first spoke pick up the second spoke and place it underneath and continue around the circle. Take the stack to your sewing machine. Reduce your stitch length to 1.5-2.0 (my machine is preset to 2.5).

5. Take the first spoke and with right sides together fold it in half matching the corners of the widest edge and sew using a 1/4″ seam. This will create the point. Make sure to make long thread tails in-between each spoke as you chain stitch.


6. Create a chain for every 20 spokes. This will help keep it more organized.


7. Clip the corner of each point before turning.


8. Fold the seam open and finger press before turning.


9. Turn the seam inward and use a knitting needle or a blunt point to make it pointed.


10. Make sure the seam is in the center of the spoke before you press.


11. It may be easier for you to lay out your spokes as you sew them together. I like to work in a clockwise direction. Establish a starting point and pick up two spokes. Use a 1/4″ seam to sew the spokes together in pairs. Chain Stitch all the pairs. Make sure you start sewing at the outside edge and sew down toward what will become the inside circle. This will assure that your outer edges match up nicely. Remember the open center circle of your dresden plate will later be covered with an appliqued circle.


12. Chain stitch the pairs into 5 sets of four. Then finish by sewing the sets of four into a dresden plate. Press all your seams in a clockwise direction.


IMPORTANT: leave a long thread tail at the outer sewn edge where you begin sewing. Later the thread will be folded into the seam allowance. This will assure that the seams will stay sewn.

13. Now place your sewn and pressed dresden plate in the center of the 15″ x 15″ piece of felted Moda Cream Wool. Pin in place. Using my walking foot I first stitched in the ditch in-between each spoke and secured or locked my stitch at the beginning and end.


14. Then using an invisible thread and a very narrow hemstitch I stitched around the dresden plate unit. You may also hand applique if you desire.


15. Make a cardboard template and create a curved edge. Then use it to trace the curve around each spoke.


16. Cut the wool along the pencil line around the dresden plate charger.


17. Make a 3″ circle out of cereal box cardboard and then cut a piece of fabric larger @ approximately 3 3/4″. Then sew a running stitch around it and pull the threads tight. Apply a bit of starch and press. Remove cardboard then press again.


18. Center the circle in the middle of your Dresden Plate and machine applique using invisible thread and a small hemstitch. You may also hand applique if you prefer. I finished off the wool edge of my Dresden Plate Charger with a blanket stitch.


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Part Two: Making the Fat Quarter Napkins
(Finished Size: 14 1/2″ x 14 1/2″)

You will need 2 fat quarters (one light & one dark) for each napkin you decide to make.
  • Cut one fat quarter @ 18″ x 18″ square of Green #55011-15
  • Cut one fat quarter @ 12″ x 12″ square of Cream #55013-19
There won’t be enough of the same fabric from your fat quarter bundle to make more than one napkin. This section is just to teach you the method I used for making the Fat Quarter Napkins. You will have to buy additional fabric to make more than one fat quarter napkin.


This is the additional yardage you will need to buy if you decide to make the Fat Quarter Napkins:
  • 2 yards of Green #55011-15 fabric will be enough to make eight 18″ x 18″ squares.
  • 1 yard of Cream #55013-19 fabric will be enough to cut nine 12″ x 12″ squares.
1. Before you cut your fabric make sure to starch and press out all of the fold lines.

2. Take your two fat quarters and trim the darker fabric to 18″ x 18″ square. Then take the light fabric and trim to 12″ x 12″ square.


3. Mark the center on each side of the 12″ square and the 18″ square.


4. Match up the centers on ONE side and pin. Also measure where you would stop sewing the 1/4″ seam on each corner of the 12″ square then make a dot as seen in the picture below.


5. Start sewing from the 1/4″ point in each corner in toward the center where you marked the opening.
Leave at least a 3 finger size opening to turn the napkin when finished.


6. Press the seam toward the darker fabric as seen below.
Then bring the opposite side of the 12″ square up to the opposite side of the 18″ square, matching the centers. Sew from the 1/4″ mark in one corner to the 1/4″ mark on the opposite corner.


7.
Again press the seam toward the darker fabric. You have now sewn two sides of the napkin.


8. Now turn the napkin and repeat the process. Match the centers and pin making sure the corners match up at the 1/4″ point as seen in the picture below.



9. Close-up of sewing the seam down toward the 1/4″ point in the corner where you will stop sewing. Make sure to secure you stitches where you finish the seam.


10. By centering the 12″ square in the middle you will have flaps in all four corners that will become the mitered corners.


11. Fold the flaps and finger press the corners.

11. You will sew the finger pressed seam as seen in the picture below. Make sure to insert the needle where you ended the side seams.

12. Close up of the mitered corner.

13. Close up of the trimmed corners. Make sure to press the mitered seams open and clip the fabric close to the sewn seam right where it meets the corner so that it lays flat.

14. Now you are ready to turn your Fat Quarter Napkin.

15. You may sew a straight or decorative stitch around the inside edge of the darker fabric to finish it off the napkin.

•••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••

Part Three: Making the Napkin Rings

(Finished Size: 1 3/4″ x 6 1/2″ before buttoned)


1. Cut one piece of fabric and one piece of pellon measuring 4″ x 7 1/2″
2. Baste the pellon on the wrong side of fabric.
3. Fold in half with right sides together then sew a 1/4″ seam.
4. Turn right side out. Press.
5. Turn ends inside tube about 1/2″ and press.
6. Sew closely all around the outside edge.
7. Move your needle to the left a little and sew around the napkin ring again.
8. Sew two button holes and attach two buttons.
9. It’s ready to button up and use as a napkin ring.

•••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••
Part Four: Making the Dresden Plate Table Runner
Finished Size: 15 1/2″ x 66 1/4″

Cut the following to make your hourglass blocks for the Table Runner:
This will be enough to make 72 hourglass blocks (you will use 64)
  • Cut 36 squares measuring 4″ x 4″ from 18 of the darker prints
  • Cut 36 squares measuring 4″ x 4″ from the Cream Background Print #55011-19

Part A: Making the Hourglass Blocks:

1. Start by taking one light 4″ x 4″ square and placing it right sides together over the 4″ x 4″ darker square. Repeat this process for the remaining squares and then draw a pencil line from the top left corner down to the lower right corner.


2. Sew a 1/4″ seam on each side of the pencil line.



3. Cut along the pencil line of each square.


4. Press the seams to the darker fabric.


5. Pair the half square triangles (HST) with other half square triangles (HST).


6. Place one HST over another HST with right sides together making sure the dark sides are over the light sides as seen in the picture below.


7. Draw another pencil line from one corner across the seam to the other corner as seen in the picture below. Now sew a 1/4″ seam on each side of the pencil line.


8. After sewing a 1/4″ seam on each side of the pencil line you will cut along the pencil line as seen below. You will need to make two piles. One pile for the left half and one pile for the right half. You ask why? Well, when you go to sew the HST’s together you will want the seams to seat into each other and that will give you well matched points and seams.


9. Now comes the pressing. Start with the right pile that you made in step 8. Open the seam and press them in a clockwise direction as seen below. Repeat the process for the left hand pile as seen below. These seams will go in a counter-clockwise direction.


Here’s a close-up of the seam that you will be opening up.


10. Trim each unit Hourglass Unite to 3″ x 3″ using the Triangle square up ruler making sure to keep your left piles together and your right piles together.


11. Arrange and sew the Hourglass blocks from the right hand pile into groups of 4 hourglass blocks per sashing unit and then repeat for the Hourglass blocks from the left hand pile. You will need 16 of these Hourglass Sashing Units for the Table Runner and then press the seams open.

Part B: Making the Dresden Plate Blocks for the Table Runner


You will need 5 sets of 20 rectangles for the Five 8 3/4″ Dresden Plates.

Out of 20 darker fabrics cut the following:
  • Cut strips @ 2 1/2″ x 22″ then Sub-cut each strip into FIVE 2 1/2″ x 3 3/4 rectangles.

Out of the Cream on Cream Floral #55017-19 cut the following:

  • Cut a 10 1/2″ x 10 1/2″ background square out of a light print for each Dresden Plate Unit you decide to make. Your table runner can be any size you choose. For example, you could use 3, 4, 5, 6, or 7 Dresden Plate Block Units depending on how big your table is. I am using 5 blocks for my table runner.

Out of the Dark Brown Fabric cut the following:

  • Cut 12 squares measuring 3″ x 3″ out of the dark chocolate fabric for the posts.

1. Make the 5 dresden plate blocks following the instructions in the Dresden Plate Charger Section in Part One.

2. Then applique the dresden plates to each of the 10 1/2″ x 10 1/2″ background squares. You can hand applique or machine applique using an invisible thread.

3. Take an hourglass sashing unit and sew one to each side of the dresden plate block.

4. Take two 3″ x 3″ chocolate squares and sew to each side of an hourglass sashing unit. Then sew to the the top and bottom of the dresden plate block (refer to table runner pictures).

5. Continue to assemble the Dresden Plate Table Runner according to the layout in the picture below.

  • One Dresden Plate Table Runner (finished size: 15 1/2″ x 66 1/4″)
  • Six Dresden Plate Chargers (finished size: 13″ round)
  • One Fat Quarter Napkin (finished size: 14 1/2″ x 14 1/2″)
  • Six Napkin Rings (finished size: 1 3/4″ x 6 1/2″ unbuttoned)


I hope you LOVE this fall project as much as I LOVED making it.
ENJOY!

Hugs, Kim Walus

www. bittybitsandpieces.blogspot.com


Charmed Gift Bag


My newest project for Moda Bake Shop is a quick & easy gift bag. Just fill it up with a matching charm pack and maybe even a cute teddy bear too. You could also add any quilt notions and more fat quarters if you like. What a fun gift to give to your quiltie peeps.

Other ideas:

  • I’ve also made the gift bag as a birthday present for my daughter’s friends and filled it with things like make-up, nail polish, jewelry and candy. I’ve even put a Webkinz inside the bag along with other treats. The girls are crazy about these bags.
  • Give it as a party favor filled with treats at your child’s birthday party.
  • You could also fill the bag and give it as a gift to your quilt group.

So Let’s Begin:


  • 4 fat quarters from the Snippets Collection by American Jane
  • 1 Snippets Charm Pack by American Jane (this will be put inside the bag as a gift)
  • Cereal Box Cardboard (to put in bottom of bag for stability)
  • Cardstock (to cover cereal box cardboard)
  • Double-stick Tape (to stick fabric to cereal box cardboard)

Cutting Instructions:

The picture below shows the pieces you will have when you’re done cutting your fabric, cereal box cardboard, and cardstock according to the list below.

  • Red Floral Fabric (outside of bag): Cut 2 pieces @ 7″ x 8″
  • Paper Doll Fabric (bag lining): Cut 2 pieces @ 7″ x 8″
  • Red Plaid (Handles): Cut 2 pieces @ 2″ x 10″
  • Red Polka Dot (Pleated Edge): Cut 2 pieces @ 4″ x 12″
  • Cereal Box Cardboard: Cut 1 piece @ approx. 2 1/4″ x 5 1/8″ (trim to fit if needed)
  • Cardstock: Cut 1 piece @ 2: x 5″
All Seams are sewn using a 1/4″ seam allowance.


Let’s Get Started:

1. Take the Red Floral Fabric with right sides together and sew the two (7″) sides and the (8″) bottom of the bag. Clip corners.

2. Take the Paper Doll Fabric with right sides together and sew the two (7″) sides and the (8″) bottom of the bag. Clip corners.

3. Take the Red Plaid fold with right sides together and sew. Then turn right sides out, press, and sew two lines of top stitching on both sides of each handle. Then sew a wavy line down the middle if you desire.


4. Take the inside and outside pieces and press the seams open as seen below.


5. This is a view of the open seams looking into the bottom corner of the bag.


NOTE:
The next steps are kinda tricky to explain so you will want to look closely at the pictures to help you follow along.

6. You will take the side seams and match them up while moving your fingers down the bag. This will create the bottom of the bag when you’re done. Repeat for the outside of the bag too. Let the top edge of the bag fall to the right (see picture below).


7. Turn the outside and the lining pieces over so it looks like the picture below.


8. Now you are going to place the outside bag on top of the inside of the bag as seen below. Lay the top edge of the bag down so it mirrors the (lining) bag below it.


9. Measure 2″ across the pointed edge (as seen below) and draw a line.


10. Sew on the pencil line and then cut off the points.


11. It’s time to pull the outside up and around the inside lining.



12. Set aside the bag while you make the pleated trim.


13. Take the red polka dot fabric for the pleated trim and sew the side seams then press the seams open as seen below.


14. Fold the fabric in half making sure the seams match, then press the fold. Mark the center for each side of the pleat (in between the side seams). You will also make a mark at 1″ and 2″ on each side of the center.


15. Fold and pinch the fabric at the two inch mark and bring it to the center mark. Press and repeat for the other side. Baste the pleats in place.


16. Make a pencil mark at 1 3/4″ in from each side of the back and then pin the handles in place. You may stitch them down to keep them from moving.


17. Now take the pleat and make sure that the pleated side is facing the inside of the bag. Match the side seams and then pin in place. Now sew around the top of the bag.


18. Pull the pleat upward and fold over the top of the bag. Pull the handles out too. Then press the top edge.

19. Now you will make the bottom insert by taking your cardboard and covering it with a piece of fabric. I used heavy duty double-stick tape. Then I place the cardstock over the back of the fabric to finish it off. Now place it into the bottom of your bag for stability.


20. This is what the inside of the bag will look like.


21. You’re DONE! Now you can fill it up and give it away.

ENJOY!!

  • 3 Charmed Gift Bags out of 4 fat quarters.

Exciting News!!!

I’m giving away ONE Charmed Gift Bag on my BLOG.

The giveaway will END on Friday, July 31st at Midnight.
I will then pick a WINNER on Saturday, August 1st.