Christmas Ribbons Quilt

Shops are filled with holiday fabrics and we have a series of fun and festive quilts to inspire you to get that Christmas sewing done early this year!

14 Fat Quarters (Be Jolly by Deb Strain)
3 yards light background (Bella solids in Bleached White)
3/4 yard binding
4 1/2 yards backing

Iron and starch your fat quarters.  Make sure you have at least 16”x21” of usable material in each piece.  Cut each fat quarter into eight 5” squares and four 5.5” squares according to diagram:

From your background (white) fabric, cut:
twelve 2.5”xWOF strips (sashing)
eight 4.5”xWOF strips (border)
eight 5.5”xWOF strips
Subcut your 5.5”xWOF strips into 56 @ 5.5” squares.    Draw a diagonal line on all of these background squares:

I found it easiest to work with one ‘row’ at a time, so you are working with the prints from 2 contrasting fat quarters at a time (so no fabric mix-ups within the row are possible).

Pair each background 5.5” square with one of the print 5.5” squares cut from your fat quarters:

Sew a scant 1/4” from each side of the marked line:

Cut along diagonal line:

Press seam open:

Trim each HST (half square triangle) to 5”:

On each of the 5” print squares cut from your fat quarters, draw a diagonal line:

Pair each of the 5” squares with a 5” contrasting HST:

Align them so that the drawn diagonal line goes in the opposite direction as the seam on the HST:

Sew a scant 1/4” seam from either side of the drawn line:

Cut on drawn line:

Press seams open:

Trim off dog ears if you prefer (optional).  This creates two 3-patch quarter square triangles that are the mirror image of each other:

When you get all the 3-patch quarter square triangles done for each pair of fat quarters, then you can arrange them into the blocks.  Sort your 3-patch blocks into piles (there will be 4 different configurations).  Lay them out so that all the white triangles face toward you and the small print triangles face each other.  I found this the easiest way to keep everything straight.

Half of them will be for the A block, and half for the B block (B block top 2, A block, bottom two):

So, start with the bottom two piles:

There are 8 of each of these 3-patch blocks.  Seperate 4 from each pile:

And rotate them 180 degrees so the white triangle face away from you:

Now you can sew these 4 sets of 4 3-patch blocks into your A blocks:

The B block is assembled the same way:

Only, when you sew the B block to the A block, you rotate is 180 degrees.

There will be 4 ‘A’ blocks and 4 ‘B’ blocks (don’t forget to rotate the B blocks!) per row.  Sew these 8 blocks (alternating A block and rotated B block) into one long row:

(sorry, my ironing board wasn’t quite long enough to show the entire row!)

Repeat with the other 6 pairs of fat quarters.  When you have your 7 rows sewn, you can start to assemble them into your quilt top.  Sew your twelve 2.5”xWOF strips into pairs to make 6 longer strips.  Measure your rows (mine measured just over 67” at this point), and cut your 2.5” strips to that measurement.  Sew the strips between the rows:

With your eight 4.5”xWOF strips, sew them into 4 pairs and attach your border.  You should now have a completed top!

Layer, baste, quilt as desired, and bind!

An approx. 76” x 79” quilt!

Karin Vail

Big Hearted Quilt

Hello again from Robin at Craft Sisters. It’s great to be back sharing a quick and easy project. This one could be fun for your February table or wall. And… adorable tucked around your littlest Valentines in the car or the stroller. I’ve made two so far in two different Moda lines but both in luscious pinks and reds. One from Sandy Gervais’, Table for Two and the other using Deb Strain’s, Surrounded By Love. The idea for this was to make a big, modern, Log Cabin-ish looking block. One Moda Candy or Charm Pack makes the heart and two half-yard pieces are used for the backgrounds.

1            Moda Candy or Charm Pack – Table For Two – heart
½ yd.     Diamond 1775611 – Table For Two – background 1
½ yd.     Rose 1775513 – Table For Two – background 2
⅜ yd.     Rose 1775613 – Table For Two – binding
1 yd.      Backing fabric
1 yd.      Low loft batting

Layout the heart
Place the 42 – 2.5″ squares from the Moda Candy or Charm Pack on a design wall or floor. 

If you are using a Charm Pack, cut 42, 2.5″ squares (obviously more color choice with charm pack). 

Audition color placement of squares until you get the color arrangement that you like. It’s fun to play with it. I ended up using darker squares to outline the heart so it would stand out in the photograph. Make the heart more subtle and pixelated looking, by mixing up the colors more.

Cut background squares, strips and complete quilt layout

Cut the squares and strips from background fabrics 1 and 2 as shown on the quilt layout map (it’s at the end of this post). 

Following quilt layout map, add background squares and strips to design wall around the heart. It always looks completely wrong to me when laid out like this, but feels great when it all comes together after sewing.

Sew squares and strips to form horizontal rows
Use a ¼” seam allowance throughout this project. It really helps in matching up squares if you sew a consistent seam width, ¼” or scant… 

Press seams in opposite direction. This avoids bulk and makes it easy to nest seams when sewing everything together.

Sew the rows together
Start sewing the rows together in the order you like, top to bottom, from center out, bottom to top. Whatever makes sense to you.

Press seams in one direction.

Make a quilt sandwich
Layer backing, batting and quilt top. Baste using pins, spray, or use fusible batting. Quilt simply or more dense, whichever you prefer. This is a good one to try your free motion quilting on because of the size.

One small but Big Hearted quilt for February or anytime. Mine finished at approx. 28.5″ x 29.5″. Hope you try this one and have fun doing it. And please stop by my blog over the weekend. There’s a giveaway for some Table for Two background fabrics to use in this project. – Robin

Robin Nelson

Family Tree Quilted Pillow

Greetings, Moda Bake Shop readers.  My name is Karen Miller, and I’m a new Chef here at the Bake Shop!  I live in the beautiful Finger Lakes Region of Upstate New York, USA, and I blog about all things Quilty at Karen’s Quilts, Crows and Cardinals.  Stop by and check out my projects, tutorials, and other happenings.

Today I’m excited to share a Quilted Envelope Pillow recipe using Deb Strain’s “Family Tree” fabric.

With its beautiful colorways, “Family Tree” is perfect for fall – AND – spring projects!  As you can see from my Blog, I’m addicted to birds – so the Family Tree birds and paisley along with some awesome dimensional cuts have me sold on this line…  I’m sure you will LOVE IT too!

Several techniques were used to complete the quilted pillow including machine piecing, applique, fussy cutting, and free motion quilting.  Both cotton and wool fabric were used in this sample — I hope you enjoy the variety.

The finished pillow fits a 20″ x 20″ pillow insert and has a cute little 2″ flange around the outside!

Pillow Top, Envelope Back and Misc Applique Pieces:

    • 1 Jelly Roll Family Tree #19640JR

Applique Background:

    • 1 Fat Quarter Family Tree Cream #19649 11

Applique Tree:

    • 1 7″ x 10″ piece Moda Marble Chocolate #6851


    • 28″ square inexpensive cotton fabric for quilted pillow backing
    • 28″ square piece of batting (I used Hobbs Poly)
    • 20″ square Pillow Form

Optional choices:

  • For Applique Tree:  7″ x 10″ piece Moda Wool Dark Brown #810-58
  • For Applique Birds:  5″ x 5″ scrap of Moda Wool Red #1700-72
  • Quilter’s Freezer Paper
  • DMC #8 Pearl Cotton Thread in Red & Brown for wool applique
  • Aurifil Mako 50/2 in Color #2000 1GN for quilting
  • Aurifil Mako 50/2 in Color #2845 1GN & #2600 ICN for top stitching


Please review all instructions before getting started. 

Unless otherwise indicated, all piecing was completed using a scant 1/4 inch seam allowance.


Pillow Top Piecing:

Applique Background: Cut one 13″ x 13″ square using Family Tree Cream or any other neutral Moda fabric.

Pieced Pillow Top : From your Jelly Roll choose 5 to 10 different strips for the pillow top – The sample was completed using 7 different fabric strips and alternating lighter/darker fabrics in the block.

Cutting and Piecing Pillow Top:  Using the “Piecing and Cutting” diagram below, cut strip sizes and sew to the cream applique background.  Note:  The diagram indicates the order in which you piece AND the size of the cut piece.

Example:   #1 – 13″ represents the first piece you sew to the background and it is cut 13 inches long.

Piecing and Cutting Diagram – # indicates the order and ” indicate size to cut

Note:  Above pieces #9, #10, #11 and #12 were sewn to the pillow top after I completed the applique.  You can sew them on at any time.

Cutting Tip:   When you’re cutting pieces that are longer than 10 or 12 inches consider this approach:

Take 1/2 of the desired size as your target, fold your fabric to the target size plus a bit of overlap. Find the target size mark on your ruler and place it on the fabric fold. Trim the opposite end.

This method allows you to remove the selvage while cutting the desired strip size and helps avoid LONG strip and ruler alignment.

Now, back to the pillow top — be sure to press your seams toward the outside of the pillow after each strip is sewn.  I was taught to first press the seam flat before pressing it in the desired direction.  The seams come out beautifully using this method.

Now that you’ve completed most or all of the piecing on the pillow top it’s time to applique!


Pillow Top Applique: 

The applique portion of the pillow allows for great flexibility!

In the completed sample I used Moda Wool for the tree and birds and attached them to the background with a whipstitch (sometimes referred to as an overhand stitch).  The birds were stuffed to give them dimension.   Needle turn applique method was used for the tree leaves.  In all cases, basting was done with applique pins.

If you would rather not use the sample methods, there are many applique options available including raw or turned edge applique, fused or glued, with hand or machine stitching.  If you have any questions on any particular method, leave a comment here or on my blog, and I would be happy to give you feedback.  Also, check out the great Moda Bake Shop Basics tutorials on Machine Applique and Turned Edge Machine Applique.

Tree above in Moda Marble — Yummy !

Tree & Birds:

If you are using wool and not fusing it down, then you’ll want to have Quilter’s Freezer Paper on hand.  If you don’t have Quilters Freezer paper sheets, you can use rolled freezer paper from your kitchen drawer 😉

Using the tree template below, trace the tree design to the dull or paper side of the freezer paper.

Tree Template

With a dry iron set on **medium heat, press your freezer paper to the right side of the wool.
**Use care not to burn and/or discolor your wool.

Cut along the drawn line.  Remove the freezer paper.

Use applique pins to secure the tree to the background fabric, then use Pearl Cotton thread to stitch using a Whipstitch.

Finished Tree:

Once your tree is stitched down, use the same techniques to cut and stitch your birds.

Bird layout:

Before stitching the birds to the background you can (optionally) add some dimension by stuffing them with batting.


Once the birds are stitched to the background, give them each a wing.  I fussy cut paisley wings using clear template plastic to help find the perfect fussy cut.  You’ll notice that I auditioned several different fabrics for wings — there are many great choices.  Choose what looks good to your eye and attach using your favorite applique method.

After stitching the tree, birds, and bird wings to the background, choose several strips from the jelly roll and fussy cut leaves to complete the tree.  The sample leaves were completed using needle turn applique, but use your favorite applique method.  For a fast and easy solution consider raw edge applique using fusible web to secure and machine top stitch for added interest.

Once the applique is completed, add the 4 outside border pieces (pieces #9 through #12 from the Piecing and Cutting Diagram above).

Your unquilted pillow top should measure appx 24 3/4 inches square.


Prepare for Pillow Top Quilting:

In the sample, only the pillow top was quilted. 

Prepare the quilt sandwich on a table top — the pillow size is perfect because nothing drapes over the edges of the table!

First, lay out your backing fabric — remember this fabric will not show once your envelope pillow is completed, so use a less expensive muslin or a light colored cotton fabric.

Now secure the backing fabric to the table with tape, pulling it taut, but using care not to stretch your fibers – you don’t want it to spring back when the tape is removed.

Next, position and smooth batting over the backing, secure it with tape, remembering not to pull too tight.


Lastly, position and smooth the pillow top right side up on the batting, always smoothing from the center out and securing as you smooth.

Pin basting is complete.

I use quilting safety pins to baste my quilt tops, but there are other methods including spray basting and basting with straight pins and soft tips.


Quilt the Pillow Top:

Using matching thread and a walking foot, stitch in the ditches along the strip pieces to stabilize the pillow top before Free Motion Quilting the applique area.

Start at the edge of the applique background and work your way outward – stitching in the ditch.

Also, baste stitch around the outside perimeter of the pillow top.

Free Motion Quilt the applique area:

Free motion quilting is fun and it allows you to enjoy your piece without the wait of someone else doing your quilting for you.   This pillow top is a perfect place to practice free motion quilting..  Here are some basics:

Use a top and bobbin thread that match the applique background, put your darning foot on, and drop the feed dogs on your machine.  For ease of movement, use a Supreme Slider on your machine bed.  Check out my blog in the next few weeks for more “Free Motion Quilting Basics”.

Start by echo stitching around each applique piece.   I used Aurifil Mako 50/2 in Color #2000 thread to quilt the applique area – the color matched perfectly!

After you’ve echo stitched the applique, quilt any design you like to fill in the background.  The more densely you quilt, the more your applique pieces will POP!

The sample was quilted using a combination of “McTavishing”, circles, and swirls, which all added movement to the piece. 

Quilt the Pillow Top Strips:

Once you have finished quilting the applique area, quilt the pieced strips with a top stitch.  I used a 2.70 stitch length on my machine.  Use a thread color that complements the fabric.

Square Up the Pillow Top:

Depending on the density of your quilting you may have to make some fine adjustments to square up the pillow top.   On the sample piece the right side was simple and squared up nicely.

However, because of the dense quilting in the lower left corner of the sample, some “fine adjustments” aka “fudging it” were made on the left and bottom edges.  You can see from the diagram below that the “fine adjustment” included trimming outside of the top fabric, resulting in only the batting and backing being square.

“Squaring up” which does not cut into the top fabric is not a problem; however, it may require you to increase the seam allowance when the pillow layers are stitched together.   This was the case with the sample pillow.

The sample piece pillow top squared up at 24.25″.

Important:  The above measurement is necessary to trim the envelope pieces.  The width of the envelope pieces will need to match the width of the pillow top (trimmed and squared).

For now, set your pillow top aside and prepare to piece the envelope back.


Pieced Envelope Back:

The envelope back requires two pieces:

  • One 19″ by 25″ envelope top (horizontal strips)
  • One 17″ by 25″ envelope bottom (vertical strips)

The sample was pieced using 13 of the remaining jelly roll strips.

To piece the scrappy back choose 13 WOF strips from the jelly roll.

Envelope fabric strips

Arrange the strips in a layout that is pleasing to your eye.

Sew the long sides of the 13 strips together.

When complete you should have a 42″ by 26.5″ rectangle.

From the rectangle, cut one 26″ by 26″ square, rotate it and trim it to 19″ by 24.25″ (same as the width of pillow top once squared up) with the strips running horizontally.  This is the envelope top.

Use the remaining 17″ by 26″ piece for the bottom of the envelope.  Trim to 17″ by 24.25″ (same as the width of pillow top once squared up).  These strips run vertically.

Fold and topstitch one wide edge of the envelope top and one wide edge of the envelope bottom.

Now you’re ready to layer, pin and sew your pillow layers together!

Complete the Pillow:

Be sure all three pieces (Pillow Top, Envelope Top and Envelope Bottom) are the same width.  The sample measured 24.25″ wide.

Begin by positioning the pillow top, right side up on a table.

Add the envelope top, right side down on the pillow top.  Align the raw edges at the top, left, and right. Pin.  The envelope top will not cover the entire pillow – align it at the top edge.

Lastly, add the envelope bottom, right side down over the bottom portion of the pillow top.  Align raw edges at the bottom, left, and right. Pin.  The envelope bottom will not cover the entire pillow top but it will overlap the envelope top by about 6″.

Using your walking foot sew around the entire outside of the pillow layers using a 1/2 inch seam allowance. The envelope opening will allow you to turn right side out.

Trim all 4 corners to reduce bulk.  Gently press the seams open.

Next, turn the pillow right side out through the envelope.  Once right side out, reach inside to push out the corners.  If necessary, from the right side, use a pin to pull the corner fabric out.

Almost done !

Press around the outside edges of the completed pillow.

Sew the Flange

The flange is made by stitching in the ditch, through all layers, as designated by “A” in the diagram below.  This makes the pillow the correct size to fit a 20″ x 20″ pillow form.

To give the pillow a more finished look, topstitch around the inner and outer edges of the outside strips as designated with “B” below.

Below is a close up of the top stitching around the flange:

Whew – that was fun!

Now you have a beautiful quilted pillow with flange that you can use for fall or spring decorating.

Are you ready to get started ?

Check out the awesome price on the Family Tree Jelly roll at Cindy’s Sew It Is!

Completed Front and Back:

One 22″ x 22″ Quilted Envelope Pillow with a 2″ Flange — and plenty of Jelly Roll strips leftover for an accent pillow!!

If you have questions, leave them in the comments below — I’ll be happy to answer them.

Also, I would love to have you jump on over to my blog and say hello.

There are some neat posts about Wool Applique here and here, and if you’re interested in learning more about Needle Turn Applique or Free Motion Quilting, stop by in November when I’ll post some basic tutorials on these topics. 

I look forward to seeing you there!

Karen Miller

Steps To The Sea Quilt

Hello from Robin at Craft Sisters. It’s great to be back at the Bake Shop sharing a new quilt. The pattern is a simple log cabin block variation – Courthouse Steps and uses Deb Strain’s beautiful “Seascapes” Jelly Rolls and Panel. Thanks Deb and Moda for all the beautiful colors.  

1 Seascapes Panel 19610-12
1 Bella Solids Jelly Roll White 9900JR-98
2 Seascapes Jelly Rolls 19610JR
5 Yds. Backing fabric
Batting 79” x 85”

Just a note that one Jelly Roll will make six blocks.  This quilt could be made with 2 Jelly Rolls if you are OK without borders or smaller borders. I added the white, Bella Solid to get more contrast.  There are only a few light strips in the Seascapes Jelly Roll.

Step 1 – Cut the panel squares using a square ruler
Center a ruler over each letter and trim to 6-1/2” square 
Center a ruler over each shell and trim to 6” square
Step 2 – Separate the Jelly Rolls by color from light to dark.  Light strips were used at the top and bottom of the block, med for the left side, and dark for the right side. Strips were sewn, trimmed, and squared as I went instead of cutting all the strips for the blocks in advance. If you cut in advance, I recommend making one sample block before cutting everything. Everyone sews a little differently. 

6” long            2 light
9-1/2”              2 light, 1 med., 1 dark
13-1/2”            2 light, 1 med., 1 dark
17-1/2”            2 light, 1 med., 1 dark
21-1/2”            1 med., 1 dark

Step 3 – Block assembly   
One block uses 16 strips – 8 light, 4 med, 4 dark and a shell center square
The block finishes at approx. 21-1/2” square
a. Sew 1 light strip to the top and 1 light strip to the bottom of a shell square. Press 

b. Sew 1 med strip to the left side and a dark strip to the right side – Press

Step 4 – Lay out the blocks in rows of 3 in the color arrangement you like the best.

Step 5 – Sew the blocks in to rows.  Press
Step 6 – Sew the rows together.  Press

Step 7 – Borders
Use remaining strips and letters to make 4 borders.
a. Layout strips around the edges of the quilt, auditioning for color.  I chose to put white at the top, med down the left side, dark down the right side and the bottom. Pretty much like the block. Place the letters of the word Sea in different places in the border to see where it reads best to you, vertical, horizontal… 

c. Sew 3 of these long strips together to make each border strip set and add letters to two of the 4 sets.

d. Sew the side borders to the quilt top – sewing from centers out.  Press seams out and repeat this step for the top and bottom borders.  Measuring and then sewing from the center out helps to avoid wavy borders and the quilt to lay flat.
Step 8 – Quilt and bind
I used a swirl pattern called “Nesting Waves” by Ellen Munnich for the quilting on this one. Use more of the remaining strips to bind your quilt.   

One beachy quilted throw of a generous size, approx. 73” x 79”
Hope you have fun making this one. Be sure to stop by my blog in the next few days and get your name in for the giveaway (Thanks Moda).  Leave a beach related comment and we’ll put your name in the hat for a beautiful Seascapes Jelly Roll. Thanks so much. Robin

Robin Nelson

Landlocked Sea Lover’s Quilt


I was born near Boston, Massachusetts and grew up in the Northeastern United States.  I remember summers spent combing beaches and watching yachts glide in and out of the harbor.  I day-dreamed about one day sailing on my own.  Then life happened and my family  moved to Dallas, Texas.  Dallas is hundreds of miles from the nearest beach.  Occasionally, if there is a big storm brewing out in the Gulf of Mexico and the winds are just right you can smell salt on the air, if by occasionally you are good with once in thirty years.  Living where I do it is easy to forget the grandeur that is the ocean.  The sights and sounds of the beach begin to fade like last summers tan….or more likely the tan from the summer of 1984 which is the last time that I spent very much time out in the sun.  It is just too hot in Texas during the summer to do anything but hunker down and enjoy some air conditioning.

Leave it to Deb Strain to bring the ocean back to me.  Her latest line, Seascapes, is everything I remember about summers at the beach and rustic sea ports…minus the salt water taffy and sand in my swimsuit.   I am delighted to play with it and thrilled to bring you this simple pattern.

Landlocked was born of inspiration I had while on a recent shop hop with my Mom.  (Ya, she quilts too!  How awesome is that?!)  We were at Stitchin’ Heaven in Mineola, Texas and they were demonstrating the disappearing 4 patch.   What a concept!  Take that block, make it bigger, be selective in your color placement and you get the following.  I hope you like it.

  • 2 layer cakes*
    • *What you need is 40, 10″ squares that are light and 40, 10″ squares that are dark.
      • Check the fabric line that you are thinking of using.  Count the number of lights you have.  Subtract that number from 42 (the number of pieces in a Moda Layer Cake) and you know the number of dark and light pieces you have.  Seascapes has 7 prints with white backgrounds.  I have 7 lights and 35 darks.  Two layer cakes more than covers the darks, but leaves me short on the lights.
      • If you have fewer than 40 of either one you need to add some fabric to supplement the layer cakes.
      • 1/3 yd yields 4, 10″ squares.
      • I need 26 more 10″ squares of light colored fabric.
      • 26 squares / 4 squares/1/3 yard = 6.5 1/3 yard cuts are needed
  • Supplemental yardage for contrast in pattern
    • I used
      • 1/3 yd #19611-11 white with blue maps
      • 1/3 yd #19614-11 white with blue netting
      • 1/3 yd #19614-12 white with aqua netting
      • 1/3 yd #19617-11 white with shells
      • 1 yd #9900-97 Bella white
  • 1/2 yd for inner border
    • I used #19615-15 navy with waves
  • 1 yd for outer border
    • I used #19618-12 tile print with green
  • 3/4 yd for binding
    • I used # 19619-15 dark stripes
  • 5 3/4 yd for backing
    • I used #19612-17 aqua on navy tapestry print
  • Masking tape is helpful but not necessary

    Landlocked is made from 20, 18″ finished disappearing four patch blocks, set in a 4 x 5 grid.  It has  NO sashing and two simple borders.  The finished quilt measures 80″ x 98″ and is big enough to cover a full sized bed.

    Cutting Instructions:

    • For blocks:
      • The goal is 80, 10″ squares, 40 dark and 40 light.
      • If you needed to supplement the fabrics in your layer cake,
        • cut 1/3 yd supplement fabric into strips 10″ x wof
        • sub cut each strip into 4, 10″ squares
      • Make two piles – one light, and one dark
    • For inner border:
      • cut 8, 1 1/2″ x wof strips
    • For Outer border:
      • cut 9, 3 1/2″ x wof strips
    • For binding:
      • cut 9 strips, 2 1/2″ x wof

    Sewing Instructions:

    • Make 20 4 patch blocks
    • HELPFUL HINT: Big blocks mean you finish a large quilt quickly, they also mean that there is more weight pulling on your fabric as you maneuver it around your machine.  Try putting your needle in the down position when you sew.  This way every time you stop, the needle will stay in the fabric and help hold your work on the table where you want it to be.
      • Gather 10″ squares (40 dark and 40 light)
      • Sew 40 sets of one dark to one light square
      • Iron seam allowances to the dark side
      • Sew 20 4 patch blocks – make certain that the darks and lights align on the diagonal.
      • Pop center seam and twirl seam allowances.
      • Iron flat.
    • Make 20 disappearing 4 patch blocks
      • I recommend that you make one block at a time.  This is the easiest way to keep everything in the right place.
      • The goal is to cut each one into 9 pieces and then reassemble them with the pieces moved around.
      • Gather
        • 20, 4 patch blocks
        • A rotary cutter
        • A ruler, at least 3 1/4″ x 20″
        • Masking tape
        • A rotating, self healing, cutting mat.  You don’t have to have one, but you will need to cut each 4 patch, 4 times, without moving any of the pieces.  A rotating mat will expedite that process.  If this is not available try using a corner for your cutting space.  If you can’t turn the fabric, you can move yourself.
      • Mark ruler with masking tape to remind you where to align for cutting.  I don’t usually do this, but the ruler I am using is big.  Big blocks + big ruler = room for BIGGER mistakes.  I put the tape on the ruler so that it marks a point 3 1/4″ from the cutting edge.  I align the tape with the center seam each time I make one of the following cuts.
      • With 4 patch block directly in front of you,
        • Cut 3 1/4″ to the left of the center seam.
        • Cut 3 1/4″ to the right of the center seam.
        • See red lines on diagram.

      • Rotate cutting mat 90 degrees, or step to the other side of your corner.
        • Cut 3 1/4″ to the left of the center seam, perpendicular to previous cuts.
        • Cut 3 1/4″ to the right of center seam, perpendicular to previous cuts. 
        • See green lines on diagram.

      • Imagine your pieces, labeled  as follows…. (see bright pink letters)
      • Keeping the pieces oriented in the same direction, swap piece B with piece H
      • Keeping the pieces oriented in the same direction, swap piece D with piece F.
      • The corner and center pieces should be in the same place they were originally.
      • Sew pieced back together in their new arrangement.
        • HELPFUL HINT:  When you are sewing the pieces back together note that the big square and little square of the same fabric always line up on the diagonal.  The rectangles of the same fabric are always one patch away from the little square in the same row or column.
      • Iron seam allowances toward rectangle shapes.
      • Trim block to 18″ square.  Really, do this.  It will make all the difference when you piece the blocks together to make your top.
        • HELPFUL HINT:  I do not have a squaring ruler that is this big.  I didn’t want to go buy one either (do they even make one?!) What I did was utilize the lines on my cutting mat.  Line up the center seam of your block with one line on the mat.  Measure 9″ to the left of center seam and trim.  Measure 9″ to the right of center seam and trim.  Turn the block 90 degrees and repeat the trimming process.  Voila!  You now have an 18″ square.
      • Repeat 19 times for a total of 20 blocks.
    • Piece center of top
      • Gather
        • 20, Disappearing 4 patch blocks
        • inner border strips
        • outer border strips
      • At this point it is helpful to use a design wall.  That is, find a place where you can  arrange your  blocks and step back from them to evaluate the distribution of colors.  You probably have a preference… guess is towards an equal distribution of all of the fabrics.  
      • Arrange the blocks in a 4 x 5 block grid, turning the blocks so that dark patches touch dark patches and light touches light.

      • When you are happy with the arrangement record it.  This can be done with a quick snap shot with your cell phone or by numbering the blocks with sticky notes.  Do what works for you.
      • Sew 4 blocks together to make 1 row.
      • Repeat 4 times for 5 rows.
      • Sew rows together to make center of top.
    • Add borders
      • Gather
        • 8, 1 1/2″ x wof inner border strips
        • 9, 3 1/2″ x wof outer border strips
      • Sew Inner border
        • Narrow ends
          • Sew two sets of two strips together at the skinny end
          • Iron seams open
          • Attach to narrow ends of top
          • Trim excess and set aside.
          • Iron towards inner border
        • Long ends
          • Sew two sets of two strips together at the skinny end
          • Add one remnant from short end to each set.
          • Iron seams open
          • Attach to long edges of top
          • Iron towards inner border
      • Sew Outer border
        • Narrow ends
          • Sew two sets of two strips together at the skinny end
          • Iron seams open
          • Attach to narrow ends of top
          • Trim excess
          • Iron towards outer border
        • Long ends
          • Cut one of remaining strips in half (across the short dimension)
          • Sew two sets of two and a half strips together at the skinny end
          • Iron seams open
          • Attach to the long edges of top
          • Trim excess
          • Iron towards outer border.

    Sandwich layers and quilt as desired.
    Don’t forget to take a photo of your finished quilt an add them to the Tops to Treasures Flickr group.

    An 80″ x 98″ quilt, a.k.a. magic carpet, pirate ship sails, desert island, or place for wonderful adventures to transpire.  Is also good for late night conversations and snuggling.  A good place to dream about the sea.

    Cindy Sharp

    H-A-LL-O-W-EE-N Spells Halloween! Wall Hanging


    Happy Halloween everyone! Hi, I am Jennifer Overstreet from gh quilting and I whipped up this fun loving banner just in time for the frightening Halloween season. Where did I get the inspiration for this banner? In elementary school  of course! My music teacher had this simple little diddy to teach us how to spell Halloween. You’ll have to forgive me because I do not remember the whole song. However, I still to this day have the choirs stuck in my head and it simply goes like this: H-A-(double) L-O…W-(double) E-N spells Halloween! And of course repeats itself. Along with ghost and goblins, and pumpkins, and spooky eyes, and scary sites…Oh my!

    (1) H “owl”een layer cake designed by Deb Strain for Moda
    (1/2) yard of Bella Solids Black 9900-00 or optional Bella Solids Black Layer Cake 9900LC-99
    (2 1/2) yards of Purple Spiderwebs 19553-16
    (1/2) yard of Black White 19557-17
    (1) yard of a light fusible interfacing

    Print out the six pages for the applique and template to go along with the pattern. {You can find the templates in the Printer Friendly Version at the bottom of this post.}

    Please read all instructions prior to making this project!
    *All seams are 1/4″ unless noted other wise!

    Auditioning: is where you match up prints that will work well together ex: what you have in mind of what you think will work together just may not. I ran into this a lot on this project. Best to put them all together on a design wall/floor on how well they will play nicely before cutting and stitching!

    Part One: Making the background block

    • From the H”owl”een layer cake choose six different 10″ squares.
    • Cut each square into 5 1/2″ x 9 1/2″ rectangle. Set aside the left over fabric and save for the applique or the strips for the spiderwebs.
    • Next cut six 4 1/2″ x 9 1/2″ rectangles from the 1/2 yardage or you can pull three 10″ squares from the Bella solids black. From the 10″ square you will get two cut rectangles measuring 4 1/2″ x 9 1/2″
    • Once all of your rectangles are cut take one print and one black rectangle, stitch right sides together along the 9 1/2″ seam, then press to open.
    • Set the six 9 1/2″ x 9 1/2″ blocks aside. 
    Part Two: The applique process
    • Take the fusible interfacing and any left over material from the printed 10″ squares or any random five to six 10 ” squares from the H”owl”een layer cake. Fuse the auditioned material by pressing with you hot iron to the interfacing with the material right side up.
    • Once all choice fabric is fused to the interfacing, cut out the templates that printed out in the PFD version of this pattern.
    • When all the templates are cut out, trace each of the Halloween letter templates with choice of writing utensil to the interfacing side of each variable 10″ square. Be sure to have each letter facing backwards for instance if you want the letter “b” to be read as a letter “b” turn the template over to trace it so it looks like a letter “d” to you. *There is no letter “b” in any of the applique for this project, its just an example! 
    • After tracing out all the letters for the word Halloween choose which of the 9 1/2″ x 9 1/2″ block the letters will go with. Keep in mind that each of the printed side of the 9 1/2″ blocks will be opposite from each other, while the black side stays in the middle.
    • Once you have chosen the arrangement of letter(s) to each 9 1/2″ x 9 1/2″ block start appliqueing them to the black proportion of each block. *My applique process on this was to rough edge applique via blanket stitch by machine. Be sure to follow the rhythm of the song for each block as in HA for block one. LL for block two. O for block three. W for block four. EE for block five and N for block six. Each letter can be wonky, straight, or however you see fit to place it! Also when placing any applique pieces to the blocks, be sure that there is a 1/4″ on each side so that the applique piece is not accidentally sewn into the seam!
    • After appliqueing on the Halloween letters as directed to each block. Start cutting out the facial templates and audition them to any of the left over scrap 10″ squares or introduce them to new 10″ squares from the H”owl”een layer cake.
    • Repete the same process for the Facial templates as stated above for the Halloween letter templates.
    • Place each facial applique piece to your liking ( it does not have to be like mine, feel free to place them where you see them to be fit).
    • After all the blocks are appliqued, place them aside to start on the spiderwebs.
    Part Three: Spiderwebs
    • From the H”owl”een layer cake you can use any left over pieces from the applique process so as long as they are still 10″ or pull few more new 10″ squares to start the strip cutting for the spiderwebs.
    • From various prints cut (24) strips of 2″ x 10″ and (36) strips of 1 5/8″ x 10″.

    spiderweb cut 4

    • Step one: Randomly take (2) 2″ x 10″ strips and (3) 1 5/8″ x 10″ strips and sew them together by having the 2″ x 10″ strips on the out side and the 1 5/8″ x 10″ on the inside. (12) strip blocks are needed for this process.
    • Step two: Cut out the template and place it on top of the strips about 1/4″ away from the edge.
    • Step three: Place your ruler over the template for rotary cutting. Be sure that the ruler covers over the template so that you do not cut the template size down and make your first cut.
    • Step four: Repeat the same process for the other side of the template and save the excess scrap pieces. They will be need for later in the spiderweb process.

    spiderweb cut 5

    • Step five: Turn the template so that the wider side is on top of the strip block 
    • Step six: Repeat the process as before to make the next cut with the rotary cutter. 
    • Step seven: Turn the template back to the same position as the first cut and repeat the process of making the final cut in the block. Remember to save the scrap pieces for later. 
    • Step eight: Randomly select (6) different triangles for the half spiderweb block to achieve a scrappy look. Sew each triangle right sides together until it starts to look like a spiderweb bunting and then press flat to open.
    • Repeat the same process for the remaining (5) spiderweb blocks.
    Squaring the Spiderweb Block

    Spiderweb cut 2

    • As indicated in the picture above: Align the center of the web on a cutting mat for an even vertical cut.
    • Then align your ruler on the 7″ line of your cutting mat.
    • Finally make the cut straight across to even out the web.
    • Repeat the same process for the remain (5) spiderweb blocks. 

    Adding the scrap pieces to the Spiderweb Blocks
    Spiderweb cut 6

    • Step one: Bring back the scrap pieces from the strip blocks. Place them on theend of the second triangle with the wider end towards the center of the spiderweb
    • Step two: With about a 1/2″ over hang on each side stitch the scrap piece to the spiderweb block right sides together.
    • Step three: Press open to lay flat. *It does not matter if you do this process before or after adding the applique block to the spiderweb block.

    Picture 1454

    • Bring back the appliqued 9 1/2″ x 9 1/2″ appliques blocks.
    • Center the spiderweb blocks to the black side of the 9 1/2″ x 9 1/2″ appliqued blocks.
    • With right sides together stitch and then press open towards the the black center.

    Picture 1459

    • Once the spiderweb block and the applique block are sewn together align the block on a cutting mat to square off the excess fabric from the top and bottom sides.
    • Then measure 5 1/2″ away from the connecting seam of the black center and the spiderweb, cut off the excess fabric at 5 1/2″. This will be a 9 1/2″ x 15 1/2″ block in all.
    • Repeat the same process for the remaining (5) blocks.
    Part Four: Putting it all together!
    • Starting piecing the inner banner together with the “HA” block until the banner spells out Halloween. Make sure right sides are together when sewing blocks together. 
    • Finished inner banner will be 15 1/2″ x 57″
    Adding the boarder
    • From the purple spiderweb fabric cut the top and bottom borders 3″ x 20 1/2″ and set aside
    • Also from the purple spiderweb fabric cut the side borders 3″ x LOF or 3″ x 54 1/2″.
    • Add each 3″ x 54 1/2″ border strip to each of the long sides of the inner banner, square off if needed.
    • Then add the 3″ x 20 1/2″ borders to the top and bottom of the inner banner. 
    The finally!!!!
    • Take the finished banner to your local long arm quilter or quilt it on your own.
    • Attach hanging pieces via way of your method of choice to the back of the banner.
    • Finish off with the binding  

    One fun loving spooky kooky 20″x 60″
     H-A-(double) L-O-W-(double) E-N Spells Halloween Banner 

    Thank you for stopping by and checking out my project today!
    Jennifer Overstreet | {}

    Luck of the Irish Table Topper

     Option A – 30″ x 30″  (shown above)

    Option B –  12″ x 36″

    Option A –
    1 green fat quarter for shamrocks
    4 fat quarters for pieced border
    3/8 yard solid green for the scallop edge (optional)
    3/4 yard cream background
    1/4 yard green binding
    1 yard back
    5″ x 7″ piece of Steam-a-Seam

    Option B –
    1 fat quarter for shamrocks
    1/4 yard binding
    1/2 yard background
    1/2 yard back
    5″ x 7″ piece of Steam-a-Seam

    Quick Points Ruler, Scallop Ruler model S1for scallop border

    Table Topper A – 30″ x 30″

    From your green fat quarter, cut twelve  4 1/2″ squares.
    These are your shamrock leaves
    Cream Background:
    Cut three 2 1/2″ x 42″ strips
    take two strips, from each strip cut:
    one  2 1/2″ x 18 1/2″
    one 2 1/2″ x  22 1/2″
    From the third strip cut:
    one 2 1/2″ x 18 1/2″
    two 2 1/2″ x  8 1/2″
    Cut two 1 1/2″ x 42″ strips
    cut these strips into 1 1/2″ squares, you need 36 squares
    Cut one 4 1/2″ x 42″ strip
    Cut this strip in to four 4 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ squares
    With a ruler and pencil, draw a diagonal line on the wrong side of each 1 1/2″ square.
    Place three 1 1/2″ background squares in the three corners of the green 4 1/2″ square,
    right sides together.  Sew on the pencil line.
    Trim seam to 1/4″.
    Press background pieces open.  This makes your shamrock leaf. 
     Repeat until you have 12 shamrock leaves. 
    Take 3 shamrock leaves and one 4 1/2″ background square and lay them out as shown. 
    Sew together as shown.  To applique the stem, use the stem template and follow manufactures directions on tracing and fusing the stem in place.
      Note: you can use ric-rac or some other trim if you choose.
    Blanket stitch or zig zag around the stem.
    Sew the center seam.  Press.  Your first shamrock is done.  Give yourself a pat on the back.  Now repeat these steps until you have four shamrock blocks.
    OK, shamrock blocks done, lay them out as shown.  Placing the 2 1/2″ x 18 1/2″ background strip down the center  and the 2 1/2″ x 8 1/2″ background strips between the blocks
    Sew the 2 1/2″ x 8 1/2″ strips to the shamrock blocks as shown.  Press your seams to one side.
    Sew the 2 1/2″ x 18 1/2″ center strip to the shamrock block sections as shown.
     Press your seams to one side. 
    Layout your border strips.  Side border strips are 2 1/2″ x 18 1/2″
    Top and bottom border strips are 2 1/2″ x 22 1/2″
    Sew on side border strips first.  Press seams to one side.
    Sew on top and bottom borders.  Press seams to one side. Now for the borders.
    OPTIONAL Scallop edge
    if you don’t want the scallop, skip down to the next section, Pieced Outer Border

    Cut three 4 1/2″ x  42″ strip from the green solid border fabric.  Take one strip and cut it in half, so you have two 4 1/2″ x 21″ strips.  Sew one of those strips to one end of the 4 1/2″ x 42″ strips. 
    Do this to both strips. 

    Now you have two 4 1/2″ x 63″ strips.

     With right sides together lay your Quick Points Scallop Ruler S1 on top and trace around the scallops with a pen.  Moving the ruler down until you have traced the scallops the length of your fabric.  Marking in all the small circles for the center lines and sewing lines. 

    Sew 1/4″ from your pen line all the way down both sides.

    Trim your seam to 1/8″. Lay the fabric out flat and with a ruler, draw a pen line down the center of the scallop section as shown.

    With your rotary cutter, cut down the center line. 
    Turn each scallop and press.  Trim the raw edge of your scallop strip to 1/4″ from the low point of the scallop.
    Cut two strips that have 9 scallops each for the sides of your quilt. 
    Pin in place, leaving 1/4″ space at each end. 
     Sew in place using a 1/4″ seam. 
    Cut two more  9 scallop strips for the top and bottom of your quilt top. 
    Pin in place.  Leaving a 1/4″ space at each end.
    Sew in place.  Be sure not to catch the scallops on the end in your seams.
    Your scallop edge is done. Yeah!  Moving on.
    Pieced outer border
    Take the remaining four fat quarters.
    From each fat quarter cut 11,  2 1/2″ x  4 1/2″ rectangles.
    Make four sections with 11 rectangles each. Sew together as shown. 
    Press seams to one side.
    Take one of the fat quarters you used and cut four 4 1/2″ squares.
    These are for the corners on the border.
    Layout your borders with the corner squares. 
     Sew one corner square on each end of the top and bottom border, as shown.
    Sew on side borders.  Press seams. 
     Press out the scallop edge so it lies on the pieced border.
    Sew on top and bottom border.  Press seams. 
    Press out the scallop edge so it lies on the pieced border
    You’re done!  Great job!!!  Quilt as desired and bind.  Cut your binding 2 1/4″
    Option B
    Table topper 12″ x 36″

    1 green fat quarter for shamrocks
    1/4 yard green binding
    1/2 yard cream background
    1/2 yard back
    5″ x 7″ piece of Steam-a-Seam for stem
    Cut nine 4 1/2″ green squares for shamrocks
    Cut one cream 1 1/2″ strip.  Cut this into 27 – 1 1/2″ squares
    Cut three cream 2 1/2″ x 42″ strips
    strip one cut:  two 2 1/2″ x 8 1/2″ strips
    strip two cut: one 2 1/2″ x 36 1/2″
    strip three cut: one 2 1/2″ x 36 1/2″
    Cut one 4 1/2″ x 42″ cream strip, from this strip,
    cut two 4 1/2″ x 8 1/2″ and three 4 1/2″ squares
    With a ruler, draw a pencil line on the wrong side of the cream 1 1/2″ background squares.
    Place three 1 1/2″ background squares in the three corners of the green 4 1/2″ square,

    right sides together. Sew on the pencil line.
    Trim seam to 1/4″
    Press background pieces open. This makes your shamrock leaf.
    Repeat until you have 9 shamrock leaves. 
    Take 3 shamrock leaves and one 4 1/2″ cream background square and lay them out as shown.
    Sew together as shown. 
    To applique the stem, use the stem template and follow manufactures directions on tracing and fusing the stem in place.  Machine blanket stitch or zig zag around the entire stem.
    Sew the middle seam. Press.
    Your first shamrock is done for this table topper.  Only two more to go.   
     Now repeat these steps until you have three shamrock blocks.
    Once you have all three shamrocks done, lay out your table topper like this.
    The 2 1/2″ x 8 1/2″ go  on each end, side borders.
    The two 4 1/2″ x 8 1/2″ cream rectangles go in the middles
    The 2 1/2″ x 36 1/2″ cream strips are the top and bottom border
    Sew the shamrocks section together as shown.
    Sew on the top and bottom borders.   You’re done!!
    Quilt as desired and bind. 

    30″ x 30″ and 12″ x 36″ Luck of the Irish Table Toppers.

    Ribbon Candy Quilt Company

    Hearts Galore

    One table runner and 6 placemats
    Table runner 18″ x 48″
    Placemats 12″ x 16″

    1 Layer cake: Always and Forever by Deb Strain
    1 3/8 yard background, light fabric
    7/8 yard binding
    Choose 11 Layer Cake squares you want to use for your hearts

    From your background fabric cut:
    1 – 2 7/8″ x 45″ strip
    1 – 4 1/2″ x 45″ strip
    15 – 2 1/2″ strips
    From your 4 1/2″ x 45″ strip, cut 5 – 4 1/2″ x 8 1/2″ rectangles
    From your 2 7/8″ x 45″ strip cut 11- 2 7/8″ squares
    Take 6 of your 2 1/2″ x 45″ strips and cut 16 – 2 1/2″ squares from each strip. You will have 96.
    You will use 88 of them.
    Now take 4 more 2 1/2″ x 45″ strips. From each strip cut 5 – 2 1/2″ x 8 1/2″ strips
    You will have 20, you will use 17 of them.
    Take 4 more 2 1/2″ x 45″ strips. From each strip cut 3 – 2 1/2″ x 12 1/2″ strips.
    You will have 12 strips and use all of them
    From your last 2 1/2″ x 45″ strip, cut 2 – 2 1/2″ x 14 1/2″ strips.
    You use both of these.

    Cut your layer cake square as shown
    Cut a 4 1/2″ strip

    Now from your strip cut
    one 4 1/2″ square
    one 2 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ rectangle
    one 2 7/8″ square
    from the other part of the layer cake cut
    two 2 1/2″ x 6 1/2″ rectangles

    Take one 2 1/2″ x 6 1/2″ rectangle of your heart fabric
    and two 2 1/2″ squares of your background fabric. 
    Draw a diagonal line from corner to corner on the
    wrong side of your background squares as shown

    With right sides together, place the background squares on top of the 2 1/2″ x 6 1/2″ rectangle. 
    Sew on the pencil line

    Trim down to 1/4″ seam

    Press open.  This is the side of your heart.  Make 2 of these blocks
    Take one 2 7/8″ heart square and one 2 7/8″ background square
    Draw a diagonal line from corner to corner on your heart square.

    Place right sides together as shown.

    Sew 1/4″ on either side of the pencil line

    Cut on the pencil line.  Press open.  You now have your half-square-triangles
    Now get one 2 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ rectangle of your heart fabric and
     one 2 1/2″ square of your background fabric.
    Draw a diagonal line on the wrong side of the background square.  With right sides together, line up the raw edges of your pieces as shown.
    Sew on the pencil line.  Press.

    Cut down the seam to 1/4″.  Press open.

    Get another background 2 1/2″ square and repeat on the other side,
    sewing on the pencil line and pressing.

    Cut the excess off down to 1/4″ and press open.

    This make the bottom tip of your heart.
    OK, now you have the pieces ready to put your heart block together.
    Take the pieces that you have just created and lay them out as shown.
      The middle square is 4 1/2″ x 4 1/2″. 
    The two background pieces at the bottom are each 2 1/2″ squares.

    Using a 1/4″ seam, sew the middle section of your heart first, as shown. 
    Sew the half-square-triangles together first and then sew them to the 4 1/2″ square. Follow with sewing the bottom tip of the heart on.  Then sew the side sections as shown. 
     Press your seams.

    Now sew the side sections to the middle section, use 1/4″ seam.  You now have your first heart!  Repeat these steps until you have 11 hearts just like this one.  Your doing great so far!
    Once you have all 11 heart blocks sewn together, it’s time to make the table runner and placemats.
    We are going to make the table runner first.  Get 5 of the 4 1/2″ x 8 1/2″ background rectangles
     and  5 of the 2 1/2″ x 8 1/2″ background rectangles.

    Choose 5 hearts that you want to have in your table runner.
    Lay your block out as you see here.  Sew the 2 1/2″ x 8 1/2″ strip to the top of your heart.
     Sew the 4 1/2″ x 8 1/2″ strip to the bottom of your heart.
    Press your seams.  Repeat on the other 4 hearts.
    Arrange your heart blocks as shown. 
    Sew them together using 1/4″ seam.  Press your seams.

    At both ends of the table runner,  sew on  a 2 1/2″ x 14 1/2″ background strip. 
    Press your seams.  Now set your table runner aside and we are going to work on the placemats
    You have 6 heart blocks left for your placemats.   Take your first heart and 2 – 2 1/2″ x 8 1/2″ strips these go on the sides of your heart. 
    Now take 2 – 2 1/2″ x 12 1/2″ strips, these are for the top and bottom of your heart.

    Sew the sides on first.  Press your seams.

    Sew on the top and bottom background pieces.  Press your seam. 
    Repeat with the other 5 hearts. 
    With remaining layer cake squares, choose 10 that you want to use on the borders of your
    table runner and placemats.
    Cut each layer cake square into 4 – 2 1/2″ strips like so.
    You now have 40 strips.  Make sets of 6 strips.  You will have a few strips left over.
    Sew your set of 6 strips together as shown.  Press your seams. 
      OK, now cut your strip block sets into  2 1/2″ sections.
    Cut four sections.
    Out of a couple of scraps, cut 2 – 2 1/2″ squares.  You need to have these for the
     side borders of your table runner.
    Take a 6-pieced border section and one 2 1/2″ square and sew the square to one end of the 6-pieced border section as shown.  Do this for both sides of your table runner.
    Sew the side border onto the table runner.  Press your seams.  Take 8 more 6 pieced border sections and lay them out as shown.  You need to have 4  – 6 pieced sections for the top and 4 more sections on the bottom.  Sew the sections together.  Press seams.
    Sew on the section border pieces to the top of the table runner. Now sew the border to the bottom of the table runner.  Press.
    Your table runner is now ready to be quilted and bond. Perfect!!
    Now for the placemats. 
     For each placemat, you need to have 2 – 6 pieced border sections 
    Sew on the borders as shown.  Press your seams.  Repeat for the remaining 5 placemats.  Now that you have all the placemats done, you can have everything quilted and bond.  Fabulous job!!!!
    Note: The layer cake squares left over can be pieced and used on the backs of your table runner and placemats.  If you don’t want placemats, you can make 2 table runners instead.  Happy sewing!
    One table runner and 6 placemats
    Table runner 18″ x 48″
    Placemats 12″ x 16″
    Margie Ullery


    My Little Butterfly Infant Romper

    Hi, I’m Anshu from Blooms and Bugs and today I’ll show you how to make this cute “My little butterfly romper” for a 3-6 months old.

    For 3-6 months old infant size:
    1 fat quarter
    1 layer cake square
    6 jelly roll strips
    6 inches of elastic
    2 buttons

    1. Fold the fat quarter in half along the length. Cut at the fold.

    2. Cut 15 inches from the width.

    3. Fold the layer cake square into half along the width. Cut on fold. Now cut a small arc at the bottom.

    This is how the pieces will fit later on. Don’t sew anything yet. First we need to add ruffles to front layers.

    Making Ruffles:

    4. Set your machine tension to the highest, stitch length to the longest, and machine speed to the fastest. Take the jelly roll strips you would like to make ruffles from and sew along one of the long edges. This machine setting results in nice even ruffles.

    5. Now sew the ruffle along the curved sides of the layer cake. Right sides together. Do the same for the other half.

    6. Fold the ruffle hems twice near the top of main fabric. This will allow for hemming later on. Make sure you fold as little as possible. Hand-baste or pin if needed. Sew both parts over the main fabric joining at the top.

    7. Now cover the whole thing with the other half of main fabric. With the right side touching the right side of front layers. Sew along the sides leaving about 2 inches at the bottom.

    Making the shoulder straps:

    8. We will make the shoulder straps from leftover fat quarter fabric. Fold the remaining fabric into half along the width.

    9. Cut at the fold, you will get two strips – about 3 inches wide.

    10. Fold each of these in half and sew along one smaller and one longer (raw) side. Turn right side out and iron.

    The Band:

    Next we will make the chest band. This is the piece that will join shoulder straps to the main body. This will also be used as elastic casing at the back, so the baby has lots of room to grow.

    11. Now sandwich these shoulder straps between two jelly roll strips (right sides together) about 2.5 inches apart from each other. Make sure the raw end of straps lines up with the raw edges of jelly roll strips. Sew a seam catching both the strips and shoulder straps.

    12. Turn out.

    13. Now position the band with shoulder straps such that the shoulder straps are centered at the front of main body of romper. Align the raw edge of the band with the raw edge of main body and sew a seam along the raw edge.

    14. When you approach the end, determine how much more of the band you would need, add about an inch of sewing margin and snip off the rest. Now sew both ends of the band (right sides together), and sew the rest of the band to the romper body.

    15. Now fold the other raw end of the band at the wrong side of the main fabric. Mark a crease so the folded portion of the raw edge goes just a little over the seam joining band and main body. This will ensure that when we sew a seam in the front, it will catch this fold in the back. Iron in place if needed.

    16. Now sew a seam as close to the band as possible on the right side but only on the back of the romper.

    17. Use the band as an elastic casing. Insert an elastic in this back band. Secure the elastic by sewing at both ends. Now finish the rest of the bend by sewing as close to the band as possible in the front side as well.

    18. Sew on 2 small buttons at the back of the band, about 2 inches apart in the center.

    Determine how long you want your shoulder straps to be and make a buttonhole in each of the strap.

    I made two buttonholes in each strap so that the straps can be adjusted to be longer if needed. Moda produces very high quality fabrics that will last a long time; so one of my goals while designing a garment is also to maximize the usage of garment and to accommodate fast growing babies for a longer time. In this garment, the elastic at the back and the adjustable buttonholes in the shoulder straps are the design elements that achieve this goal.

    Adding the ruffle at the bottom:

    19. Ruffle two jelly roll strips the way you did for the front layers.

    20. Now sew those ruffles to the hemline by lining up the ruffled edge with the raw hem ( right sides together). Do it separately for back and front.

    21. Now serge the raw edges of ruffles and fold. If you don’t have a serger, just fold the edges twice and hem.

    At this step , you also need to make sure that all the layers are equal at the sides. The two front panels will likely come out longer than the front and back pieces because the layer cake is longer than half of the fat quarter. If that’s the case, fold the ruffles on front panels a little more than the ruffles on the main fabric.
    22. After hemming all the ruffles, sew the sides until you reach the bottom (remember we left a little un-sewn earlier).

    One butterfly romper. Now put it on your little butterfly and see her flutter with joy!

    Anshu Jain