Type Geek Pillows



Hi there! It’s Casey from Casey York Design and Studioloblog.wordpress.com, and I’m back to share the pattern for my Type Geek pillows. I am a self-professed type geek, myself, so I couldn’t resist coming up with a project for Typography month on the Moda Bake Shop. These pillows are a perfect way to showcase your favorite fabric collections and fonts. I had so much fun matching typefaces to fabric lines that I couldn’t stop with just one pillow and ended up making three. You can find the templates for these three appliqued words in the Printer Friendly version of this tutorial at the bottom of this page. However, it’s easy to create your own templates, and this project is even more fun if you make up your own fabric-font pairings. I hope you have as much fun with this project as I did, and that you’ll share your finished pillows with me through the Casey York Quilts flickr group!

Front patchwork and back appliqué: one jelly roll (samples show PB&J, Comma, and 2wenty Thr3e)
Pillow back: (1) fat quarter or ¼ yd. solid white fabric (samples show Bella Solids in Porcelain)
Front Appliqué: (1) piece solid white fabric, 12” long X 3” wide
Lightweight, double-sided, paper backed fusible web: (1) 9” X 12” sheet
(1) 18” zipper 

Please note: this pattern uses only (9) jelly roll strips, resulting in a lot of leftover fabric. You may want to plan another project to use the excess—I recommend one of the other wonderful tutorials here on the Moda Bake Shop!


Step 1: Make the pillow front:

Select nine strips from the jelly roll, trim to measure 18” long. Stitch along long sides to form a striped patchwork panel. Trim to measure 17 ½” X 17 ½.”

Tip: For maximum contrast, try to position a darker print or near solid as the second stripe from the bottom. This will ensure that your white appliqués show up well. Reserve the rest of this strip for the appliqués on the back of the pillow, which you will make in Step 2.

Step 2: Make the Appliqués

Print the template for the typeface of your choice—this tutorial features Helvetica, Rockwell, and Playbill. You will only need one template page per pillow. Templates can be found in the printer friendly version of this tutorial linked at the bottom of this page.


Tip: Make your own templates: Select a favorite font from your computer’s word processing program (bold san serif or slab serif fonts work best for this project). Type out the name of the typeface, then enlarge the character size until the letters are approximately 2” tall. This generally works out to be a type size of 180 to 210 pt., although this will differ from typeface to typeface. Print your template; for the pillow front appliqués, reverse the letters by turning the page over and tracing the outlines of the printed characters on the back. Use your templates to make fusible appliqués as follows.

Following the manufacturer’s instructions, trace the templates onto the double-sided light fusible web. Cut out roughly, leaving a ¼” margin around your traced lines; you may want to cut out the entire word rather than cutting out each letter individually. Fuse the letters that appear reversed onto your white appliqué fabric. Fuse the letters that appear correctly oriented onto the wrong side of the jelly roll strip you reserved from Step 1, or a different strip that matches the second stripe from the bottom of your patchwork panel. Make sure to use a pressing cloth between your iron and fabric in order to avoid getting sticky residue on your sole plate.

Step 3: Place the Front Appliques:

Position your white fabric appliqués on the patchwork panel, aligning them with the bottom edge of the second stripe from the bottom. You will want to make sure that the last letter is at least 1 ½” from the right hand edge of the panel to leave room for the seam allowance.

Tip: Begin laying out your letters from the right-most letter and move left (i.e. backwards) towards the left side of the panel. 

When you are satisfied with your layout, fuse the appliqués in place, again using a pressing cloth between fabric and iron. Stitch around the appliqués using your machine or by hand; the samples were stitched by hand using a blanket stitch and a single strand of six-stranded cotton embroidery floss.


Step 4: Make the Pillow back:

From the solid white fabric, cut two rectangles measuring 17 ½” wide X 8 ½” long and 17 ½” wide X 11 ½” long. Fold one long edge of the 17 ½” X 8 ½” rectangle back 1 inch and press well, creating a crease.

Install the zipper: 

Make sure the zipper is zipped. Unfold the crease in the 17 ½” X 8 ½” rectangle and place with the crease facing up; this is the right side of your pillow back. Place zipper face-down along the 17 ½” edge closest to the crease and align long edge of zipper tape with edge of fabric; pin well. Your zipper will be slightly longer than your pillow back is wide; to create a new “stop”, simply stitch back and forth several times across the zipper teeth at the point where the zipper reaches the 8 ½” edge of the fabric. Use your machine’s zipper foot to stitch as close to the zipper teeth as possible. When you approach the zipper pull, lower the needle, raise your presser foot, and carefully unzip the zipper until the pull is behind your needle. Lower the presser foot and continue stitching to the end of the zipper.

Refold crease; stitch along fold as close as possible to the zipper, making sure not to catch the zipper tape in your stitching. This will create a placket to cover the zipper.
 

Unzip the zipper. Place the tape face down against a 17 ½” edge of the 17 ½” X 11 ½” rectangle and pin well. Stitch as close as possible to the zipper teeth. This time, when you reach the zipper pull, carefully zip the zipper until the zipper pull is behind your needle. Continue stitching to the end of the zipper. Zip the zipper, place pillow back right side up, and press well.

You should have a 17 ½” X 17 ½” square (if slightly larger, trim to measure 17 1/2″ X 17 1/2″). Baste along side edges to hold zipper together when you assemble the pillow cover.

Place the appliqués:

Place your pillow front right side up. Place the pillow back on top with the right side facing down, the zipper towards the top edge, and the edges aligned. You should be able to see your front appliqués through the white fabric of the pillow back. Use a removable fabric marker–I recommend a Hera Marker or other creasing tool–and your ruler to trace lines along the bottom and sides of the word on the front of the cover. These will be your guidelines for placing the appliqués on the back. Turn the pillow back right side up and use the guidelines to place your back appliqués; the letters should be backwards. When you are satisfied with your placement, use your iron to fuse them in place. Stitch around appliqués using your machine or by hand.


Tip: If you use a fabric marker or pencil to make your placement guidelines, make sure you remove your markings before you use your iron to fuse the appliques in place! This is why I prefer to use a creasing tool for this step–I don’t need to remove any markings before pressing.

Step 5: Assemble the Pillow Cover:

Place pillow front cover and back cover together, right sides together. Make sure the zipper is unzipped a few inches. Align edges and pin well. Stitch along edges with a ¼” seam allowance. If you wish, finish the edges with a zigzag stitch. Unzip zipper all the way and turn cover right side out. Insert an 18” X 18” pillow form and you’re done!


This pattern will yield one cover for an 18” X 18” pillow. I recommend making several—have fun matching typefaces to the character of different fabric collections!

  Casey York
{www.casey-york.com}

Read With Me Quilt



Hi Moda Bake Shop Readers!!  I’m Melissa Corry from  Happy Quilting and I am so excited to be back here at the Moda Bake Shop to share my Read With Me quilt!! This fun twist on a standard “book” quilt uses typography and adorable quilting to add a whimsical touch.  Adding quilted titles of my families books makes this quilt a treasured heirloom.  I hope you enjoy the tutorial and even more, I hope you enjoy creating your own Read With Me quilt!!

To make your own Read With Me quilt you will need :

1 Noteworthy Jell Roll
2 Yards of Moda Bella Solid White
1/2 Yard of Moda Bella Solid Black

4 Yards of your favorite print for Backing

Applique Templates (at the end of the tutorial)
1/2 yard of Heat N Bond
Twin size or 68″ x 82″ piece of Batting

Got your Ingredient’s, let’s get piecing!!

STEP 1 – CUTTING


Start by breaking out that jelly roll.  Choose 7 strips and set them aside to be used for your binding.  I choose to use the “white” strips for my binding.

From the remaining jelly roll strips, alternating prints and colors for each group cut
   (4) 2 1/2″ x 6 1/2″ rectangles
   (4) 2 1/2″ x 8 1/2″ rectangles
   (4) 2 1/2″ x 9 1/2″ rectangles
   (24) 2 1/2″ x 10 1/2″ rectangles
   (28) 2 1/2″ x 11 1/2″ rectangles
   (28) 2 1/2″ x 12 1/2″ rectangles


From your white yardage cut the following
   (10) 5 1/2″ x Width of Fabric Strips
   (4) 3″ x 15″ rectangles
   (4) 2 1/2″ x 6″ rectangles
   (4) 1 1/2″ x 6″ rectangles
   (36) 1 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ rectangles
   (8) 2 1/2″ x 3 1/2″ rectangles
   (32) 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ squares

STEP 2 – BLOCK A

Gather the following size pieces and lay them out as shown.
   (2) 2 1/2″ x 12 1/2″ print rectangles, (3) 2 1/2″ x 11 1/2″ rectangles, and (1) 2 1/2″ x 10 1/2″ rectangles
   (1) 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ solid square, and (3) 1 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ rectangle.



Lay the solid rectangles onto the tops of the print strips and sew a 1/4″ seam along the edges.  Press.

Sew the 6 columns together.  Start by placing the second column onto the first, sew a 1/4″ seam along the edge.  Then place the third column onto the now sewn together first and second columns and sew a 1/4″ seam and so on until all 6 columns are sewn together.  Press.

Repeat this step to make a total of 4 blocks each measuring 12 1/2″ x 12 1/2″.




STEP 3 – BLOCK B

Gather the following size pieces and lay them out as shown.
   (1) 2 1/2″ x 12 1/2″ print rectangles, (2) 2 1/2″ x 11 1/2″ rectangles, and (3) 2 1/2″ x 10 1/2″ rectangles
   (3) 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ solid square, and (2) 1 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ rectangle.


Lay the solid rectangles onto the tops of the print strips and sew a 1/4″ seam along the edges.  Press.

Sew the 6 columns together.  Start by placing the second column onto the first, sew a 1/4″ seam along the edge.  Then place the third column onto the now sewn together first and second columns and sew a 1/4″ seam and so on until all 6 columns are sewn together.  Press.

Repeat this step to make a total of 4 blocks each measuring 12 1/2″ x 12 1/2″.



STEP 4 – BLOCK C

Gather the following size pieces and lay them out as shown.
   (2) 2 1/2″ x 12 1/2″ print rectangles, (1) 2 1/2″ x 10 1/2″ rectangle, (1) 2 1/2″ x 9 1/2″ rectangle,
        (1) 2 1/2″ x 8 1/2″ rectangle and (1) 2 1/2″ x 6 1/2″ rectangle
   (2) 2 1/2″ x 3 1/2″ solid rectangles, (3) 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ solid square, and (3) 1 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ rectangle.




Lay the solid rectangles onto the tops of the print strips on either end of the strip and sew a 1/4″ seam along the edges.  Press.

Sew the 6 rows together.  Start by placing the second row onto the first, sew a 1/4″ seam along the edge.  Then place the third row onto the now sewn together first and second rpw and sew a 1/4″ seam and so on until all 6 rows are sewn together.  Press.

Repeat this step to make a total of 4 blocks each measuring 12 1/2″ x 12 1/2″.



STEP 5 – BLOCK D

Block D has an angled book.  To make this start by slicing a 3″ x 15″ solid rectangle in half diagonally.


Place a 2 1/2″ x 11 1/2″ print rectangle between the 2 triangles, taking care to center the strip.  Lay the strip onto the top triangle.  Sew a 1/4″ seam aligning the raw edges.  Press.  Lay the bottom triangle onto the strip and sew a 1/4″ seam aligning the raw edges.  Press.  Using the ends of the strip as a guide, trim the top and bottom of the unit even with the ends of the strip.

Now gather a 2 1/2″ x 6″ solid rectangle and a 1 1/2″ x 6″ solid rectangle.  Lay the 2 1/2″ strip along the bottom of the block and the /2″ strip along the top of the block aligning the raw edges.  Sew a 1/4″ seam along each edge and press.

Now all that is left is trimming.  The trimming has to be done one side at a time and needs to be precise or you will end up with a floating book 🙂
    Place your long ruler so the top left hand corner of the print strip aligns with the 4 1/4″ horizontal mark on your ruler and the bottom right hand corner of the print strip aligns with the 1/4″ horizontal mark on your ruler.  Trim along the right hand edge of your ruler.
    Place your long ruler so the right hand side of the block aligns with the 4 1/2″ vertical line on your ruler.  Trim along the left hand edge of your ruler.
     Place your long ruler so that the right hand side of the block aligns with the edge of the ruler, the left hand side of the block aligns with the 4 1/2″ vertical line and the bottom right hand corner of the print strip aligns with the 12 1/4″ horizontal mark on your ruler.  Trim along the top edge of the ruler.
     Place your long ruler so that the right hand side of the block aligns with the edge of the ruler, the left hand side of the block aligns with the 4 1/2″ vertical line and the top of the block aligns with the 12 1/2″ horizontal mark on your ruler.  Trim along the bottom edge of the ruler.

You know you will have trimmed correctly if the three corners of the book that are pointed out are 1/4″ away from the nearest edge.

Gather the following size pieces and lay them out as shown.

   (2) 2 1/2″ x 12 1/2″ print rectangles, (1) 2 1/2″ x 11 1/2″ rectangles, and (1) 2 1/2″ x 10 1/2″ rectangles, and a pieced angle book block.
   (1) 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ solid square, and (1) 1 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ rectangle.

Lay the solid rectangles onto the tops of the print strips and sew a 1/4″ seam along the edges.  Press.

Sew the 5 columns together.  Start by placing the second column onto the first, sew a 1/4″ seam along the edge.  Then place the third column onto the now sewn together first and second columns and sew a 1/4″ seam and so on until all 5 columns are sewn together.  Press.

Repeat this step to make a total of 4 blocks each measuring 12 1/2″ x 12 1/2″.


STEP 6 – APPLIQUE STRIPS


Now the blocks are done and you can move onto the applique.  If you are new to applique, and need a bit more instruction on how to do it, please see my video tutorial on Applique Basics here.    From your black yardage lined with Heat N Bond cut the following letters.  (use the templates at the end of the post or make your own if you prefer a different font.)

Grab the WOF strips cut in the beginning and cut them into the following pieces.  Sew the pieces end to end to create (2) 5 1/2 ” x 63 1/2″ strips to be used for the side borders, (2) 5 1/2″ x 58 1/2″ strips to be used for the top and bottom borders, and (3) 48 1/2″ strips to be used for the applique.  Set the border strips aside.

Fuse your applique onto the three strips as follows.  For the first strip, start the applique 1″ in from the left and space the applique out over 32″.  For the second strip, start the applique out 8 1/4″ from the left and space the applique out over 32″. And for the third strip, start the applique out 1″ from the right and space the applique out over 32″.

Secure stitch the applique.  It is much easier to do this while it is in a strip, verses once it is sewn into the quilt top.



STEP 7 – ASSEMBLING QUILT TOP

And now you are ready to put the top together.  Lay your 16 blocks out in 4 rows of 4.  You can use the same layout I did or your own, just whatever looks pleasing to your eye.


Once you have your layout, sew the rows together the same way you did with the blocks.  Lay the second block in each row on the first and stitch along the aligned edge.  Then add the 3rd block, and then the 4th.

Press your rows and then lay them back out adding the appliqued strips in between each row.

Sew the rows together.  Once again, use the same process as putting the blocks together.  Just sewing the second row onto the first, and then adding the third and so on until the rows are all sewn together.

Now gather your borders that were set aside.  Place the side borders along the sides of the quilt top.  Sew a 1/4″ seam along the edge, aligning as you go.  Press.  Then repeat the same process for the top and bottom border.  Press.

And your quilt top is finished!!


STEP 8 – FINISHING

Baste it, Quilt it, and Bind It.  I know, I make it sound so easy.  If you are new to finishing your quilt, I have created a video tutorial series that goes over the basics of each of these three steps.  You can find it at my blog 🙂   You will use the 7 strips you set aside at the beginning to do the binding.  I choose to quilt mine with a bit of a “Fairy Tale” scene.  I  used a water soluble pen to draw the basic sketch and then filled it in with all of my favorite FMQ designs.   The final touch of quilting that really made this quilt special was quilting a book  title of a family favorite onto each book.  To do that, I once again used a water soluble pen  and then quilt the titles in my very best loopy cursive 😉  To see more detailed quilted pictures see my blog 🙂



          One adorable 58″ x 73″ Read With Me Quilt that is sure to be a family favorite.  Whether you put it on a bed or just snuggle under it while reading stories, I hope it becomes a treasure.  Thank you so much for joining me and I hope you enjoyed the tutorial.  If you make your own Read With Me Quilt I would love to see it.  You can add it to my Inspired by Happy Quilting Flickr group here 🙂

Have a Happy Quilting Day!!

Melissa Corry
{happyquiltingmelissa.blogspot.com}

Sweet as Candy Pincushion


Hello! It’s Lisa Calle of Vintage Modern Quilts here with a quick recipe using your favorite pieces of Moda Candy.  I came up with this cute and fast little pincushion as a way to use some of my Moda twill tape. I’ve saved every piece of it since I started buying pre-cuts (Please tell me I’m not the only one who does this?!). They’re just tucked away and looking lonely in a jar on the shelf.

I just had to make use of them! Even with the small-scale piecing, this pincushion is a fast and simple project.

1 package of Moda Candy (I used Mama Said Sew by Sweetwater)
6 pieces of Moda twill tape from a Jelly Roll or Fat Quarter Bundle OR 108 inches of binding
12 charm squares OR 12 pieces of 5″x5″ scraps
12 pieces of 5″x5″ batting
Filling (I used crushed walnut shells)


These instructions show you how to make 1 pincushion. A package of Moda Candy plus the ingredients listed above will yield 6 pincushions.

1. Choose seven pieces of Candy for your pincushion top: four pieces for the 4-patch, 2 sashing fabrics, and 1 center fabric

2. Mark a line down the center of two of your 4-patch pieces. (I press a line with my iron). Place 1 marked piece and one unmarked piece right sides together and sew 1/4″ away from the line.

Cut along the line and press. Repeat for your other two 4-patch pieces.

3. Mark or press a line down the center of the 4-patch strips you’ve sewn, going perpendicular to the seam. Repeat the process of sewing 1/4″ from each side of the line, cutting, and pressing. You now have four itty bitty 4-patch blocks.

4. Cut your sashing squares in half: each sashing strip will measure 2.5″ x 1.25″ (with about 0.5″ of the length as excess that you’ll trim off later). Set aside.

5. Cut your center square. I chose a cute portion of one fabric to fussy cut a star and some text. This center square measures 1.25″ x 1.25.”

6. Assemble your block in rows. Press your seams towards the sashing on the 4-patch rows and towards the center block on the middle strip.

7. Match points, pin, and sew your block together.

8. Layer up with one charm square, your batting piece, and your block on top. Quilt as desired. If you don’t want any quilting, at least baste the edges together. Use your ruler and rotary cutter to square up to 4.25 inches.

 You now have a cute mini quilt pincushion top!

Optional – sew a length of Moda twill tape that reads “Moda” on the backing square for your pincushion. I hand-stitched mine on because I only thought of this after I’d made the pincushion.

9. Place your pincushion top wrong sides together with your backing charm square. Sew a 1/4″ seam all around your pincushion, leaving a small opening for the filler. I like to mark my stopping point with a pin or Clover clip.

10. Sew a zig zag stitch at one end of your Moda twill tape.This will help prevent fraying. You can also use fray check if you have some on hand.

11. Attach your Moda twill tape as binding. Start just after the opening you’ve left and sew on just like bias tape, folding the twill tape at each corner to miter them.

12. Fill the pincushion with crushed walnut shells. (NOTE: You can find these in the bird section of a pet store. The bag is huge so share with a couple of friends.)

13. Stitch the opening closed and finish adding your twill tape binding. Be sure to zig zag the end to prevent fraying. Overlap the beginning of the twill tape by an inch or so. It is helpful to use your zipper foot for this step.


 One Sweet as Candy Pincushion! (That’s my son’s little hand in the photo. He just had to touch those yellow pins.)

Repeat x 5 to use up your entire pack of Moda Candy. Each pincushion measures about 4.5″ square. These can also be used as pattern weights. They make a great gift for your sewing friends and this pincushion looks sew stylish in solids (the Bella Solids 2012 colors are available as Moda Candy.) See what other Moda Candy is available {here} and check your favorite LQS to see which ones they have in stock.

Hope you enjoyed this recipe. If you make a pincushion, be sure to brag about it in the {Moda Bake Shop group on Flickr}.

Happy sewing!

Lisa Calle
{vintagemodernquilts.com}

Comma, Pyramid, Hexagon Quilt


My name is Sara and you can find me at www.knottygnome.com. This is my first bakeshop tutorial and I’m excited to bring you this hexagon quilt in two sizes. I love to play with color in textiles. In addition to quilting I engage in many crafts, like knitting, spinning, dyeing, crochet, embroidery, and sewing. Be sure to stop by my blog for a bonus tutorial that uses scraps from this quilt to make an improv pillow cover.


Stroller blanket:
1 Comma FQ bundle + 1/2 yd Bella solid 9900-11 (Snow);
155in binding using your preferred method
Batting: 40×48

Lap quilt:
1 Comma FQ bundle + 1 2/3 yd Bella solid 9900-11 (Snow);
2 1/4 yd yardage for backing;
290in binding using your preferred method
Batting: 76×80


I used the Fons & Porter Pyramid ruler, but I’ve also included a triangle template that can be found in the printer friendly version of this post.


Step 1: Choose your fabrics. Each fat quarter will yield 24 triangles, or 6 per 21” strip. A strip cut from yardage will give you 12 triangles.

For the Stroller blanket you will need 150 triangles. I chose extra fabrics for more variation but remember to keep 7 FQ intact for the backing
36 Black: 1.5 FQ
36 Grey: 1.5 FQ
12 Green: .5 FQ
12 Orange: .5 FQ
12 Yellow: .5 FQ
42 Snow: .5 yd

For the Lap quilt you will need 558 triangles. Remember to keep 8 FQ intact for the backing.
120 Black: 5 FQ
120 Grey: 5 FQ
60 Green: 2.5 FQ
48 Orange: 2 FQ
60 Yellow: 2.5 FQ
150 Snow: 1 2/3 yd

Step 2: Press your fabrics. I laid mine out 4 layers deep to save time. Square up your edge and cut fabrics into 4.5” strips.

Step 3: Line up your triangle ruler or template close to the edge of your strip. If using the template, align your cutting ruler with the edge of the template to help you cut a straight edge.

Step 4: Cut both sides of the template to complete your triangle.

Step 5: Remove 1/4″ from each tip to get rid of the “dog ears” and make the triangles easy to align when piecing.

Step 6: Flip the template and align it with the cut edge of the strip to begin your next triangle. Repeat Steps 2-6 until you have the correct number of triangles from Step 1.

Step 7: If you have a design wall, lay out your triangles according to the diagram. I do not have a design wall, so I laid out a few rows at a time.

Stroller blanket: 10 rows of 15 triangles
Lap quilt: 18 rows of 31 triangles

Step 8: Stitch your triangles into rows using 1/4″ seam. Be sure to keep them in order when chain piecing. Press seams open, being careful not to stretch the triangles out of shape.

Step 9: Piece rows together in groups of 2 to form complete hexagons. Stitch rows together to complete top.

Step 10: Trim the 2 uneven sides 1/4″ beyond the first whole triangle in the row, making the top rectangular.

Step 11: Choose fabrics for the back, cut and layout according to the diagram. The Stroller blanket requires 7 fat quarters and the lap quilt requires 8 fat quarters plus 2 1/4 yd for the center panel. Piece together using 1/4″ seams.

Step 12: Make a quilt sandwich, baste, quilt, square up, and bind using your preferred method.


Stroller blanket: 31.5 wide x 40 long
Lap quilt: 67.5 wide x 72 long

Be sure to stop by blog.knottygnome.com for a tutorial on using up those trimmings.

Sara Peterson
{www.knottygnome.com}

Out the Door Charm Quilt

Out the Door - Cover photo


When Lisa told me that Moda Bake Shop was doing a series of texty projects, I instantly knew what I wanted to make.  My boys had been telling me for months that I needed to make it. 

Out the Door
A mock-up of my idea done in PB&J by Basic Grey
I showed this picture to them….they loved the idea….then informed me that I got it wrong.  It seems that this is NOT the order in which I whisper my instructions to them as they head out the door.  They assured me that “BE GOOD” comes first….every time.
Out the Door

My boys have gotten big.  I have three, ages 20, 17, and 14 1/2 (yes, you have to include that half).  They are the best thing that ever happened to me.  I know it sounds like a cliche.  I’d wager, if you have children you know exactly what I am talking about.  Every day they get a little bit older and every day they grow a little bit further away from needing me at arms reach.   Even so, there will never be a day when I won’t pray these parting words over them as they head out the door. 

Out the Door 

Fabric
  • 4 charm packs
    • I used Round Robin by Kathy Schmitz
  • 1 1/2 yards for outer border
    • I used #6046 11 little birds on  poppy red from Round Robin
  • 1/3 yard for inner border 
    • I used #5746 73 golden rod crackle from Round Robin
  • 5/8 yard for lettering
    • I used #5746 73 golden rod crackle from Round Robin
  • 1/2 yard for binding
    • I used #6043 18 black with golden pin dots from Round Robin
  • 4 yards for backing
    • I used #6046 14 little birds on golden rod from Round Robin
Tools – these were used to make the letters.  I chose to reverse applique them by hand.  These are the tools I used.  If you want to applique the letters using a different method, alter your supplies accordingly.
  • 9 pieces of regular printer paper
  • black Sharpie marker (for use on the paper only)
  • fabric marker  – I tried several different ones to see which I liked best for this project.
    •  My Frixion pen was great….although hard to see on dark fabrics as it is red. 
    •  I also tried a Clover white marking pen….I had a hard time seeing what I was doing, but it worked well.
    • I ended up using a Sewline mechanical pencil with white led.  I love this product!
  • Fray Check – I chose to reverse applique my letters by hand.  This product is great for keeping the little pieces from fraying at the corners.
  • Light box – If you do not have one don’t worry.  You can use a roll of masking tape and a window. 
  • Small pair of very pointy, sharp fabric scissors.
  • Applique pins – these are very short – 3/4″ long.  They are big enough to hold the applique pieces in place while you sew without getting in the way.  Normal pins will work too; however, I am not responsible for any words learned by your children while you are using them for this project.
  • pearl cotton
  • fusible web
Out the Door is made from 154, 5″ blocks set in a grid of 11 x 14.  32 of those blocks have letters on them.  It has NO sashing and two simple borders.  The finished quilt measures 66″ x 80″, perfect for tossing on the couch and snuggling under.
Cutting Instructions:

Out the Door

  • For letters
    • cut 4, 5″ x width of fabric (WOF) strips
    • sub cut strips into 8, 5″ x 5″ squares each for a total of 32 squares
  • For inner border
    • cut 6, 1 1/2″ x WOF strips
  • For outer border
    • cut 7, 7 1/2″ x WOF strips
  • For binding
    • cut 7, 2 1/2″ x WOF strips

Out the Door
Lettering Instructions:  This is the most difficult step in Out the Door , and by difficult I really mean time consuming.  There is nothing hard about it.  The following instructions tell you how I did the lettering.  I wanted the words to appear in negative space…so the fabric line could shine, but my words would still be visible.  I did this by reverse appliqueing.  In this process the lettering fabric is hidden behind the background fabric and revealed as the background is cut out of the way.
You can get a better idea by looking at my sampler (also a Moda Bake Shop pattern L.O.V.E.).
L.O.V.E.
Made using 4,  slices of layer cake from Marmalade by Bonnie & Camille
O.
The letter O was drawn to the striped fabric.  I then layered that patch atop the floral.  I snipped the top fabric about 1/4″ from the drawn line (starting with the center, else it would fall away.) flipped the edge under and hand sewed along the tracing line (now at the edge of the patch.)  I continued that process until the whole letter had been revealed.
You can follow a similar process by machine….
L.
The letter L was drawn onto the floral fabric.  I then layered the patch atop a striped charm and machine sewed a scant 1/4″ to the outside of my traced line.  Once the L was completely traced with stitches I carefully trimmed away the top layer (leaving about 1/8″ raw edge) and fray checked the loose edges. 

I am a long arm quilter and have found that loose edges can cause problems.   To minimize the floppiness I went back and hand embellished the edges with pearl cotton.  You could do the same thing with this project. (although the pearl cotton is not listed in the ingredients and I have no idea how much it would take.)  Another option would be to use your machine and do some decorative stitching to hold the edges down.

It would be perfectly acceptable, and probably a lot easier to fuse the letters.  If you choose to do it this way, the templates can do double duty.  Use the box around each letter to help center the letters on each charm.

Out the Door
Getting down to business
  • Select 32 charms that highly contrast to your lettering fabric.  Set them aside.
  • Print letter templates from the Printer Friendly Version at the end of this blog post.
    • There are 16 different letters, and one shape used in this quilt.
    • There are 2 templates per page.
    Reverse Applique
    •  Each template is drawn in 5″ square.  When you print them, make sure that the square measures 5″.
    • Trace letter/shape with sharpie marker.
    •  You need to be able to see the outlines of the letters/shape through the fabric.  I found the lines printed by my printer to be insufficient to this task.
    •  To fix the problem I drew on them with a sharpie marker.
    • WARNING – be careful of your writing surface, you don’t want to ruin your cutting mat with Sharpie bleed through.
  • Using light box, or masking tape and a window, trace letters onto the right side of charm squares.  One on each of the 32 squares that you set aside.
    Reverse Applique
    • The following chart shows how many of each letter/shape you will need.

  • Layer each charm square atop one letter fabric square. 
Reverse Applique
    • Layer them so that both right sides are up….like pages in a note pad.
    Reverse Applique
    • Using large basting stitches, sew 1/8″ from each edge.
      • This will hold your pieces together while you are working with the fabric in the middle to reveal the letters.
      • The smaller than normal “seam allowance” will ensure that the stitching doesn’t show when you put all of the blocks together.
  • Applique letters onto blocks.
    • If you are continuing by hand –
      Reverse Applique
      • Snip the top fabric about 1/4″ from the drawn line (starting with the center if you are working on something with a floating piece like an O or R.)  Make your cut only about an inch or two long so that you are only cutting what you are working on at the moment. Clip curves, and corners to make flipping under the edge easier.
      • Flip the edge under
      • Pin in place as needed.
      • Sew along the tracing line (now at the edge of the patch.) with a hidden stitch like you would use if you were binding your quilt or hemming something.  Continued that process until the whole letter is revealed.
    • If you are continuing by machine –
      • Sew a scant 1/4″ to the outside of the tracing lines.
      • Trim the fabric on the tracing lines
      • Secure edges as desired.
    • If you are continuing by some other method –
      • Have a great time!  Don’t burn yourself on the iron.
  • Sew letters into words.  Be careful to get the letters right side up and spelled correctly.
    • You need,
      • 3, BE
      • SAFE
      • SMART
      • GOOD
      • HAVE
      • FUN
      • LOVE
  • Sew words into sentences.
    • Using remaining charm squares, (represented below by an X)
      • X BE X GOOD X X X
      • X BE X SAFE X X X
      • X BE X SMART X X
      • X HAVE X FUN X X
      • X X HEART X LOVE X U X
    • Sew  9 additional  rows of 11 blocks each.  
    • You should now have 14 rows of 11 blocks each.
    • Sew rows together to make center of quilt.
  • Add borders
    • Gather
      • 6, 1 1/2″ x WOF inner border strips
      • 7, 7 1/2″ x WOF outer border strips
    • Sew Inner border
      • Long ends
        • Sew two sets of two strips together at the skinny end
        • Iron seams open
        • Attach to long ends of top
        • Trim excess and set aside.
        • Iron towards inner border
      • Narrow ends
        • Sew one remnant to each remaining strip at skinny end.
        • Iron seams open
        • Attach to narrow edges of top
        • Iron towards inner border
    • Sew Outer border
      • Narrow ends
        • Cut one strip in half.
        • Sew two sets of one half strip and one full strip together at the skinny end.
        • Iron seams open
        • Attach to narrow ends of top
        • Trim excess
        • Iron towards outer border
      • Long ends
        • Sew two sets of two strips together at the skinny end
        • Iron seams open
        • Attach to the long edges of top
        • Trim excess
        • Iron towards outer border.

Sandwich layers and quilt as desired.
Don’t forget to take a photo of your finished quilt an add them to the Tops to Treasures Flickr group.

A memory, stitched with love, and etched into the soul of your kids.  This stuff is important.
WARNING:  This quilt may be requested by each of your children.  Be prepared to make it more than once.
Out the Door
Don’t ever miss an opportunity to say it.  You never know when it might be the last chance you get.

Cindy Sharp
{topstotreasures.blogspot.com}

Happy Happy Quilt

Hello, everyone! It’s Crystal Hendrix from over at Hendrixville! I am bringing you another fun, quick, and simple happy quilt! This quilt will bring a smile to your face with it’s fun and bright colors! You can be as creative as you like and name this quilt with any line of fabric that uses an “H”….how creative can you get?

 

1 Jelly Roll Eat {Your Fruit & Veggies by Pat Sloan}
5/8 yard – 1st Border (43010 14)
¾ yard – 2nd Border (43040 62)
½ yard – Binding (43010 16)
4 yards – Backing (43010 107)



Special notes:
*Use a ¼” seam allowance throughout quilt.*
** WOF – Width of Fabric, RST means right sides together. WST means wrong sides together. **
***Images shown are using both the regular and batik style of the line. ***
This quilt is made up by a simple “H” style block. You will need to make a total of 56 blocks. 
Cutting Instructions:
Background fabric of block – 112 : 2.5” x 2.5”
Letter fabric of block – 112 : 2.5” x 6.5” and  56 : 2.5” x 2.5”
Border #1 – Cut 5 strips of 2” x WOF
Border #2 – Cut 6 strips of 4” x WOF
Binding – Cut 6 strips of 2.5” x WOF
Backing – Cut 2 : WOF x 66” 
For your background and letter fabric, I chose to keep my background a more neutral color and then chose to have my letter fabric to be all the same color. You can do this or you can make your letter be made up of different colors. I would suggest keeping your background a constant color so that your “H” blocks will stand out more. 
            
Block Instructions:
I’m a visual person so I liked to lay my blocks out in the desired pattern before I begin my sewing as shown below. You will assemble your blocks like the following:

Start by sewing your middle squares together to make a single column. Press open seams. 
Now sew together you 3 strips to make 1 block. Press open seams.
Trim your block down to 6” if needed.
 
Now you have your finished block! See how simple that is! But assembled all together it makes a neat effect! Finish making the other 55 “H” blocks.
Assemble Quilt:
We will be assembling this quilt in a 7 x 8 layout. When laying out the blocks, you will be setting down one in the normal “H” position and then add another one with a 90 degree clockwise turn or a “sideways H”.  See below:
Lay out your blocks until you have a total of 7 blocks. After you have a “sideways H” you will then add another “H” block. See below:
Create a total of 8 rows. Make sure that when you start you’re your next row that you have the opposite of the block above. See below:
Once you have sewn your rows together and have pressed the seams, sew the rows together to make your quilt top. Make sure to press your seams after you attach each row.
Borders:
 Now take your fabric that you cut for your Border #1 and make the following:
2 – 2” x 42.5” and 2 – 2 “x 51.5”
Sew the two 2” x 42.5” to the top and bottom of your quilt top and press seams. Then take your two 2” x 51.5” and sew to the side of your quilt and press seams.
Now take your fabric from your Border #2 and create the following:
2 – 4” x 45.5” and 2 – 4” x 58.5”
Sew the two 4” x 45.5” to the top and bottom of your quilt top and press seams. Then take your two 4” x 58.5” and sew to the side of your quilt and press seams.
You have now created your quilt top.
 Basting:
To assemble your backing, Use the following diagram for your guide. You will need to cut your fabric into two 66”xWOF” strips. Then you will take your second strip of 66” x WOF and trim it down to 66” x 20”. Sew the two pieces together and press open.
Sandwiching Your Quilt:
There are many different ways to sandwich your quilt, you can use any method you want or use the one that I used. In a large flat area lay the quilt backing down with the RST of the fabric facing the ground, so your WST will be facing up. Using masking tape, tape down the corners of your quilt and then approximately every 5”. *TIP* the more tape you use, the more secure it will be and easier to baste the quilt top to. Once your quilt backing is securely taped to the floor take your batting and lay it out on top of the backing. Arrange it to where you want it to be and then take your quilt top and arrange it on top of the backing and batting. Now pin (using safety pins) or basting spray to secure the quilt top to the batting and the backing. Once finished and you are satisfied with how securely sandwiched your quilt is, cut approximately 2” from the quilt top around the entire quilt.
Machine or Hand quilt as desired.
Binding:
 Once again there are several different ways that you can attach the binding to your quilt You may use any method you desire or you can do what I did. Take your 6 strips of binding and sew the ends together.  Press in half lengthwise. On any side of the quilt, in the middle pin the top of your binding down and then about 4” down pin it again. You will be stitching through all the quilt layers with the raw edges of binding matching the raw edges of the quilt. When you get to the corner, stop ¼” before the corner. Backstitch, remove the quilt from under your presser foot and fold binding upwards making sure the quilt top and binding are forming a straight line. (Image #1) Holding the fold in place, bring the binding down in the line with the quilt edge. (Image #2) Start stitching at the top of the fold and continue stitching the binding to the quilt, doing the same to the rest of the corners. When you get back to where you started, leave about a 4” strip of binding unsewn. Measure the binding to where you will sew the two end pieces of the binding together. Cut and sew ends together. Now finish sewing the rest of your binding down. Now trip the edge of your quilt so that all you have left is the ¼” seam allowance from your binding stitching. Turn quilt over and fold over the binding. Machine bind or hand bind making sure to miter your corners.
Now your quilt is finished!

 

This pattern produces a quilt approximately 54” x 60”. You can use this as a nice throw on your couch or do what I do and add it to my “living room quilts”. I keep it in the living to display the season as well as to give my kids a nice quilt to snuggle up with while watching a movie.  Whatever you decide to do with your quilt I am sure you will enjoy it!
To see other quilts that I have made for the Moda Bake Shop and others please visit me at my blog: Hendrixville.blogspot.com. There you can see my wild autism family and many of my different projects.  Please feel free to send me any questions or pictures (I would love this) of any quilts that you have made using one of my different tutorials.
Crystal Hendrix

{hendrixville.blogspot.com}