Cup Of Cheer Mug Cozy

Happy Holidays friends!  I’m Amy Gibson of Stitchery Dickory Dock (you may have seen my Cathedral Window Baby Playmat tutorial here at Moda Bake Shop last month).  I’m excited to be here again sharing a festive little tutorial with you.  This quick foundation-pieced mug cozy is bright and scrappy- your drink will feel so loved!  It’s the perfect holiday gift for friends at work, teachers, or anyone who loves a hot cuppa cheer (and by cheer, I mean caffeine).  Tuck in a gift card to your favorite coffee shop or some chocolate-covered espresso beans (!!!) for a gift with a little more punch.  
-1 Charm Pack (12 squares makes 3 cozies, so you could make a whole slew of them from 1 pack)
-Lining Fabric- at least 5″ X 13″ 
-Batting- at least 5″ X 13″ (I used Insul-Bright, but any type of batting will do)
-Sashiko thread or embroidery floss
-Embroidery needle
-Cardboard cozy from your favorite coffee shop (to use as a template)

Select 12 charms from your pack- I chose a rainbow selection from MoMo’s new line, Half Moon Modern, but choose what you like- sky’s the limit.

Cut a 1.5″ strip from each square.  You can do up to 4 at once to make it even quicker.

Now open up your biodegradable organic free-trade cardboard cozy from the unnamed coffee chain of your choice, lay it out on the wrong side of your lining fabric and trace around it.

Now, layer some batting below the shape you just traced.  I used Insul-Bright by The Warm Company, because hey, coffee’s hot…but any batting will work, so use what you like.

Now don’t freak out because you’re going to have to do a tiny amount of free-hand artwork here.  No biggie- just use your pen to extend the ends of your traced shape by 1/4″ on each side.  The shape is slightly curved so just do your best to follow that same curve.

Now, using your rotary cutter, cut out your fabric & batting, about 1/4″ outside of your pen line.  This 1/4″ buffer will be your seam allowance so it’s important!  Set your lining fabric aside for now- we’ll only be working with the batting for these next few steps.

Now lay out the fabric strips you want to use, and order them however is most visually pleasing for you- I chose in-color order because I’m OCD like that, but yours could be scrappy…(reminder: no rules!)

If you’re wondering why there are only 10 strips in this photo instead of 12, it’s because I needed to throw in one “mistake” to let you know I’m human.  So there you go.

Now, fold your batting piece in half lengthwise to find the center point and mark it with a pin.

Grab your 6th strip from the left (don’t run away- I promise this is super simple- it’s just an easy way to get everything centered), and align the right side of it with your pin, right side of the fabric facing up.

Take the next strip to the right and place it over your first strip, right sides together.  Stitch 1/4″ along the right edge.

Now press open the top strip.  Be careful not to fry your batting during this process- use a cloth to cover the batting area if you aren’t sure.  Cotton would be fine, but this Insul-Bright stuff would have a melt-attack!

Continue adding strips and stitching, until you reach the end of your piece.  Note how I’ve aligned my strips perpendicular to the batting piece and not to the previous strip- so you will end up with a gap.  This will help your piecing to follow the curved shape of the cozy.

Repeat going the other direction until the entire batting piece is covered.  Ooooh, looking pretty!

Here’s what the back looks like.

Now take your piece of lining fabric and center it on your piece front, right sides together and pin.  It’s important to feel around the edges to make sure there is batting under the entire lining piece.

Stitch on your marked line around the entire piece, leaving one end open.  Trim down to 1/4″ from your seam.

Turn the piece right side out, poke out the corners with your scissors or a knitting needle, and press.

Your open raw edge will look like this- not to worry- he’ll be sewn up soon.

Let’s go ahead and embroider this puppy while one of the ends is open so we can hide the knots inside.  Using Sashiko thread or embroidery floss (both work great, just slightly different look), gather running stitches onto your needle and pull through.  Because this piece is fairly thick at this point, you might find it hard to build up stitches on the needle (depending on your needle).  No worries- you can just bring the needle up and down completely for each stitch.
Now turn under your raw edges 1/4″ and press.  I love a shot of heavy spray starch at moments like this to help the fabric behave.
Now fold your entire cozy in half so the ends meet, patchwork sides facing in, and stitch a scant 1/4″ seam along the edge.  The scant 1/4″ is important so that you catch all of your turned raw edges from the opening.
Turn it right side out, press if you like, and voila!  

1 addictive little cozy that will be smiling at you the entire way to work.

Thanks for stopping by to check out my recipe!  If you like it, don’t forget to leave a comment, and pop on over to my blog to say hi and check out my other tutorials and quilty ramblings.


Amy Gibson
{Stitchery Dickory Dock}

Cathedral Window Baby Playmat

Hi!  I’m Amy Gibson of Stitchery Dickory Dock and I’m so excited to share a recipe with you today!

If you’re like me, you’re probably always on the lookout for cute, memorable baby shower gift ideas (I feel like I get an invite to one every time I check the mail!).  Perhaps you’d like to gift something a little more “wow” than the usual onesies and burp cloths?  Look no further!  This darling cathedral window baby playmat is like no other. It is constructed using a unique method that requires no basting, no traditional quilting, and no binding. Plus, it’s nice and thick- super cooshie for that sweet little tooshie!

-1 Layer Cake (40 10″ squares to be exact- you’ll have 2 leftover to use for something else)
-Crib Size Batting (at least 40″ X 50″)
-Cardboard backing from your layer cake package (or a cereal box) for templates

Rotary Circle Cutter- this affordable little tool is worth it’s weight in gold!  Pick one up here, or you can just use an 18 or 28mm traditional rotary cutter to get the job done instead (the smaller, the better).

1.  Fold your layer cake square in fourths, and press the folded corner.

2. Open it up and mark the center point with a water-soluble fabric pen.
3. To prepare the fabric for easier circle-cutting, give your square a healthy shot of Faultless Heavy Starch and press.  I find that the stiffer the fabric is, the less it wants to wrinkle up and get funky when you cut.  Now mark and press all 40 of your squares.
4. Time to cut!  If you have an Olfa circle cutter, you know why I’m sounding a bit excited right now.  This little baby is a wonder- sliced my cutting time in half and gave me near perfect accuracy.  Shockingly, they are priced the same or cheaper than a standard rotary cutter. I think it is worth every penny.  BUT, if you can’t get one, your smaller blade standard rotary cutter will work too!  
Circle Cutters– position the sharp point on the center mark of your square, and loosen the screw to adjust the distance of the blade- aim for close to 1/4″ from the edge if possible, but it honestly doesn’t matter what your exact diameter is- as long as you maintain the exact same distance for all of your cutting.  
**Note: these circle cutters are fantastic, but if you haven’t used one before, I suggest practicing on some scrap fabric to give you a feel for it before you start cutting your Layer Cake.  I found that quick, overlapping back and forth motions, rather than a single fluid pass, resulted in less fabric movement.
Standard Rotary Cutters: you will need to create a circle template.  Find a bowl that’s the right size (about 9.5″ in diameter), trace around it on the cardboard from the back of your Layer Cake, and cut it out with scissors.

5. Batting!  Cut 20 circles the exact same way you did with your fabric.
6.  Sort your fabric into 20 contrasting pairs (ie- dark with a light, large print with a small print, etc). 
Now layout your pairs and decide on 1 circle per pair that will be on top (ie- in the center of your cathedral windows)- mark an X on the wrong of that circle with a water-soluble marker.  
7. Layer a pair of fabric circles, right sides together, on top of a batting circle.  Make sure that the circle with the marked X is on top.
8. Pin around the edge.
9. Using your walking foot, stitch 1/4″ seam around the entire edge, being sure to back-tack at the end of the seam.
10.  Now set down your stitched circle, X marked side facing up, and mark a 2″ line, centered, 1″ in from your seam.  
11.  Pick up your circle and carefully pull the 2 layers of fabric apart, pinching the line you just drew in half between your fingers.  Double check to make certain you are only pinching 1 layer of fabric.  Cut along the line.
12.  Using the small hold you just cut, turn circles right side out.  (This step goes much faster if you can coerce your husband into doing it while he’s watching football!)
13.  Press, poking the edges out as necessary to give a nice smooth curve.
13.  Now, take your cardboard (if you used it to make the circle template, you can either cut into it again, or get another piece), then mark and cut a square that just barely touches the edges of the circle at the corners.  Mine was 5.5″, but I advise you to wait to cut until you measure, as your circle size could vary slightly from mine.  Again, this is ok– what’s most important is that they are all the same, and your square template fits your circles perfectly.
14.  Go ahead and layout your circles in 5 rows of 4, to get an idea of which prints you want on top.  Be sure to peak under the edges to make sure you like the layout of the underside colors as well.  Also, make sure that all of the little slits you cut are facing up, and are positioned outside of this square (not on the corner).  This way they’ll be totally hidden when you stitch the flaps down!
15.  With your water-soluble fabric pen, mark around the square on  the top side of all 20 circles.
16.  To begin piecing the first row, take 2 circles, right (or “top”) sides out, match up 2 corners of the marked squares, pin, and stitch along the line, back-taking at the beginning and end of the seam.  Hopefully a child doesn’t tug on your leg just as you’re finishing, so you’re able to keep it reasonably on the line (unlike me!).  
17.  Open and behold the wonder!  Things are starting to take shape!  Continue pinning and stitching these seams, until you have all 5 rows of 4 constructed.
18.  Now take 2 rows, right sides out, match up the seams and pin, just as you have been doing, only this time you’ll sew one continuous seam along the entire row.
19.  Stitch along the line, taking care that the flaps on top and beneath are open and flat.  Move continuously from one circle to the next, back-tacking only at the beginning and end of the row.
**Take care not to sew over the folded flaps, but just below them.  This is crucial, even if you have to stray from your marked line a tad to stay below the folds, as it could hinder your mat from lying flat.
20.  Once you’ve finished sewing all of the rows together, press all of the flaps down.  It’s ok if you have a bit of extra fabric in the middle of the circles (wrinkles)- you can easily tuck it beneath the petals when you stitch them down.
21.  Now, with your walking foot still on, stitch the petals down an 1/8″ from the edge.  The quickest way to do this is to stitch them by rows, staying on the same side of the petals all the way down the row, then turning and coming back the other way on the opposite side of the petals (rather than sewing around each petal individually).  
Finish it off by top stitching am 1/8″ seam around the entire outside edge of the mat.
And there you have it!  Your mat is good to go- no additional quilting or binding needed!  Now run it through the wash and give it one last steamy press, before gifting it a lucky mom-to-be and wowing everyone at the shower with your mad skills!!!

1 dreamy Cathedral Window Baby Playmat- 24″ X 29″

Thanks so much for taking a peak at my Bake Shop recipe!  I’m so glad to be here!  If you have any questions about this project, feel free to hop on over to my blog and give me a holler.  If you make this project, email me a pic- I’d looooove to see it!


Amy Gibson
{Stitchery Dickory Dock}