Hallie’s Hexi Stars

My name is Konda Luckau of Moose on the Porch Quilts. I have been quilting for a long time. In the past, I have always said that the only reason I can quilt is because I could do everything on a machine. With 6 kids from 4 – 14, I don’t always get as much time to quilt as I would like. I love precuts because I can start sewing faster. I love quick projects because I can actually get them finished.

I have recently been changing my mind. I still like to see projects finished, but I have tried hand piecing and hand quilting. I started small. I found that hand applique is too slow of a process for me. Hand piecing surprised me. I enjoyed being able to work on it while waiting for kids in various places.

If you haven’t tried hand work, this might be a project to change your mind.

1 Hope Chest Prints Honeycomb
3/4 yard backing
3/4 yard square batting
1/2 yard binding

1. Take 28 of the hexagons, 14 light and 14 dark. Each hexi star takes 2 light hexagons and 2 dark hexagons.

2. Cut each hexagon into three diamonds as shown. Using a ruler from corner to corner, cut half way.

3. Turn the hexagon and cut half way again. Repeat to make three diamonds as shown.

4. Take 2 sets of 3 light diamonds and 2 sets of 3 dark diamonds for one hexi star.

5. Lightly mark the 1/4″ seam allowance on one of each dark diamond in a narrow V as shown. Lightly mark the 1/4″ seam allowance on all 6 of the light diamonds in a wide V as shown.

6. Lay out half of the star with the marked diamond between two unmarked diamonds.

7. Align two adjacent diamonds. Sew with a running stitch along marked line.

8. Tie off the thread at the corner and align the next diamond. Continue sewing down the next side. Tie off and cut thread. Finger press.

9. Repeat with the other three dark diamonds to make two half stars as shown.

10. Mark the 1/4″ seam allowance along one side as shown.

11. Pin the two halves together and sew along the marked line.

12. Press seams in a circle and press seams open in the middle rotating in the opposite direction.

13. Take one of the light diamonds. Align and pin it onto one dark diamond as shown. Sew along the marked seam allowance. Knot thread, but do not cut.

14. Align the light diamond to the next dark diamond. Pin and sew the next marked seam allowance. Knot thread again, but do not cut unless you need to.

15. Repeat with the next light diamond.

16. Continue sewing the light diamonds around the dark star. That makes one Hexi Star.

17. Repeat to make six Hexi Stars with a dark center and light edges. Make one Hexi Star with a light center and dark edges.

18. When pressing, always rotate seams.

19. Lay out seven Hexi Stars as shown. Hand piece in the same manner.

20. Layer backing, batting, and top. Baste with pins or spray.

21. Hand or machine quilt.

22. Cut the 1/2 yard of binding fabric into 2 1/2″ bias binding. Bind.

One approximately 24″ table topper that you will be very proud to show off!

I hope you will give hand piecing a try. If you do, I would love to see it! My email is kluckau(at)moosequilts.com. I hope you have as much fun as I did!

Konda Luckau

{www.moosequilts.blogspot.com}

Simple Snowman Mini Quilt

Nov5

Early Season’s Greetings fellow Bakers! This is Robin over at Craft Sisters. Here’s a simple idea for a winter/holiday wall quilt using jelly roll strips and a fat quarter. It’s so great to be sharing it with you. Joy Batiks from Laundry Basket Quilts delivers the perfect colors for this and I love red (makes it an easy choice for the background for me). The greens are also gorgeous or a combo could be great too. There are lots of things you could do with this design and some other ideas are suggested at the end of the recipe. Hope you have fun with it.

1 Jelly Roll Joy Batiks from Laundry Basket Quilts 42120JR
1 Fat Qtr. Joy Holiday Pudding 4212585 for snowman circles
1 Scrap Lightweight sew in interfacing (big enough for 3 snowman circles)
2/3 Yd. Backing fabric
24″ x 30″ Low loft batting (suggest fusible batting)
White chalk pencil for tracing tree Freezer paper
18 4-mm press on crystals for snowflakes
1 Skein Rayon embroidery thread (ivory or cream) for snowflake embroidery
1 Skein Sashiko thread or embroidery thread for tree stitching

Make the Appliqué Background
Choose 10 strips from jelly roll in high contrast to snowman circle fabric. Cut strips in half and remove selvedges. Sew 10 half-strips together lengthwise using 1/4″ seam allowance. Press seams to one side. Save the other half-strips for another project. Choose two more strips for borders. Sew border strips to sides of background. Press seams out. Trim and square. Sew border strips to top and bottom of background. Press seams out. Trim and square and set background piece aside.

Make Snowman Circles

Using the circle templates found in the Printer Friendly Version, trace 1, small, medium, and large circle on to sew-in interfacing. Leave an inch of space between the traced shapes.

Place and pin interfacing circle on right side of the snowman fabric. Shorten your stitch length (15-18 stitches per inch) and sew around circles on the drawn line. The needle down feature of your machine really helps here with staying on the line, stopping and pivoting.

Trim the circles leaving 1/8″ – 1/4″ seam allowance outside the drawn lines. Cut a center slit in the interfacing only of each circle.

Turn circles right side out and use a chop stick to smooth seams. Press. I love this method of appliqué because it adds a bit of dimension and is a stabilizer for the embroidery.

Note: It’s easy to remove the interfacing if you don’t want it by following these steps: Use water soluble thread in the needle and regular thread in the bobbin to sew around the circles. Trim and turn circles right side out and smooth seam with chopstick. Lightly spray circle edges with fabric sizing. Press edges with steam and interfacing will lift away. Edges will still be turned under and bobbin thread can be removed or remain to help maintain edges.

Use a window or a light box to trace snowflake embroidery lines on each circle. Embroider the snowflakes using two strands of rayon embroidery thread (rayon thread adds some shine). Stem or outline-stitch each snowflake. Couch or use fly stitch for the snowflake cross pieces. Crystals get ironed/pressed on after snowman is appliquéd to background.

Trace the Fir Tree

Trace numbered tree lines on to freezer paper, leaving generous space between lines. Cut out the separate pieces.

Place top of tree shape on to background fabric 3″ down from the top edge and 4″ in from left edge (not including borders). Iron the shape with the waxy side of freezer paper down. Trace around the shape using a white chalk pencil. Peel off the paper shape.

Press line #2 in place and trace. Continue with remaining pieces until tree is entirely traced.

Place and Appliqué Snowman Circles
Pin circles in place and hand or machine stitch using your favorite method.

Stitch Tree on Background

You won’t need to stitch the entire tree because the snowman covers part of it. There are a number of ways to stitch this tree. Choose what you like best and stitch it – whether it is outline embroidery, bobbin work, Sashiko (Japanese surface embroidery), small ric rac. I opted for Sashiko. Here are a few basics to get you started. It’s fun and relaxing and no hoop is needed. Use a Sashiko needle and Sashiko thread. The thread stands out on the surface and is easy to work with. Sashiko needles are longer than regular embroidery needles. Cut the thread approx. 20″ and knot one end. Load needle with several stitches before pulling it through. Pull fabric taught so there isn’t any puckering. Try to make all of your stitches and spaces between the same length (think rice grains). End stitches in corners to define a pattern sharply. Space stitches so they don’t touch or cross where pattern lines connect. Knot on back when you finish.

Apply Crystals to Snowflakes
Place press on crystals on to snowman circles as shown on template and in photos. Press each one following manufacturer’s directions. A small craft iron is helpful for this step (easier to control and not bump crystals out of place).

Finishing
Make a quilt sandwich (spray baste or use fusible batting) and quilt around the tree shape close to all Sashiko stitches and around snowman circles. Quilt vertical lines in the ditch in remaining background strips. Trim and bind using left over jelly roll strips. Add hanging strip to back and hang in a noticeable place.

Or… add one more border and use it to wrap quilt around an art canvas. Staple to secure and add picture wire to hang. The intent for this quilt was to keep it very simplistic but a lot more could be done with it.

Here are a few more ideas to try using the rest of your jelly roll.

Make it a pillow(s)
Make it a much larger quilt using the whole jelly roll for background, enlarging the snowman and quilting a fancy holiday motif inside the circles.
Make it a runner lengthening the background and adding a tree and snowman to each end.
Make the tree an appliqué instead of stitching it out.

One simplistic, wintery, snowman, wall quilt approximately 21″ x 25″

I hope to try some of those other ideas and will post pictures on my blog. Please stop by and visit.

Thanks,

Robin Nelson
{www.craftsisters.com}

Framed Square Throw Quilt

Jun12

Here’s a bright throw using one jelly roll that will add color to any room. I used the Over the Rainbow batik line from Laundry Basket Quilts. All of Moda’s batik lines have rich saturated colors though, making it easy for us to create something vibrant. You could use any one of them. Hopefully you’ll have fun making or taking this on vacation.

1 Batik Jelly Roll – Laundry Basket Quilts “Over the Rainbow”
3-1/4 yd. Backing fabric
1/2 yd. Binding fabric
64″ x 72″ Batting

Step 1
Remove selvedges from strip ends. Choose 4 strips that are close in color and in high contrast to most of the other jelly roll strips. These will be used for the frames. Choose one more strip that contrasts to the 4 for centers of framed squares. Set aside.

Step 2 – Quilt Sections
Using a design wall, the floor, or whatever you’ve got, lay out the remaining strips in two sections.

Use 23 strips for the lower section and 10 strips (+ scraps later) for the upper section. Line up lower section strips vertically in the color order you prefer. I used most of the darker strips at left in the bottom section shading and ending with lighter fabrics at right. Use 10 strips for the upper section and shade for best contrast with framed squares placement.

Step 3 – Make 9 Framed Squares
Sew one set of high contrasting strips (3 strips) together approx. 13″ in length with the darker strip in the middle. Turn the strip to horizontal and cut 5, 2-1/2″ strips. These are the centers of the framed squares. Do the same with the other two strips you set aside (10.5″ length this time) and cut 4 center strips for a total of 9 centers

Sew strips to the sides of each of the framed square center strips. Press seams out and trim as needed.

Step 4
Beginning at the left side of the lower section, sew three strips together (lengthwise). Press. Sew the next three strips together in the same way (strip sets 1 and 2). Press.

Step 5
Sew one framed square to the top of strip set 1. Press seam toward dark. Trim strip set 1 to same length as strip set 2.

Step 6
Press top and bottom edges under (1/4″) on 2, framed squares. Press under top edge of square to be used at bottom of strip set 1. Place strip set 1 next to strip set 2. Pin squares in place as shown with one square matching up to bottom of strip sets 1 and 2. Offset and place the other two squares matching up corners.

Step 7
Appliqué or top–stitch top and bottom edges in place as pinned on each strip.

Step 8
Carefully cut away the extra fabric beneath the appliquéd squares, leaving a 1/4″ seam allowance. Remove stitches and separate the scrap strips. Press. Scraps may come in to use to extend the width of the quilt upper section.

Step 9 – Complete Lower Section
Sew all the remaining strips together lengthwise as you laid it out creating one piece with 4 framed squares. Press.

Step 10 – Upper Section
Number horizontal strips starting from bottom up 1-10. Sew strips 8, 9 and 10 together and sew a framed square to the end at top right. This is the top of upper section. Trim this strip set to match the width of lower section. Press.

Step 11
Sew strips 4, 5 and 6 together and sew a framed square to the left end. Press seam towards strips. Trim to same width as lower quilt section.

Step 12
Use strip scraps from beneath appliqués and ends of sets to extend width of remaining strips (1, 2, 3 in diagram) in upper section. Sew all the horizontal strips together to create one piece the same width as the lower section.

Step 13
Press edges under on remaining 3 squares for appliqué. Place as shown and appliqué edges except for the ones within seam allowance (bottom and far right edges).

Step 14
Sew the two sections together. Press seam towards upper section.

Step 15
But wait, there’s more… You’re sure to have more strip scraps available. Get more by trimming away any extra beneath appliqués. Sew scraps together end-to-end to yield two strips the length of the quilt. Sew one strip to each side which gets you an extra four inches in width.

Finish
Press the top again and make a quilt sandwich. Easy quilting suggestion: Start at top center and stitch vertical lines in varying widths out to the edges.

Trim excess batting and backing. Prepare and sew on binding.

One colorful, quilted throw approx. 53″ x 64″ finished.

You could easily make it a little bigger by adding a border. Have fun!

Robin Nelson
{www.craftsisters.com}

Hexagon Flower Bag

Nov20

Hi, I’m Julie from Narioka, Australia. After four quilt tutorials for the Moda Bake Shop, I’ve decided to show you a bag pattern. While paper piecing hexagons, this idea came to me. Its a really cute, quirky, fun to make bag. It would make a great hand-stitching project to take away if you are travelling.

Enjoy!

To make this bag you will need

One Charm Pack. (One bag takes 18 squares.)

Half yard of fabric to make lining and handle.

Three inch wide strip of coordinating fabric for handle.

Pre-cut 2 inch hexagon templets.

2.5 inch strip iron on interfacing.

I’ve used Lauren and Jessi Jung’s Flora for the main bag and for a different look, a second bag from the Indian Summer range from Laundry Basket Quilts.

Step 1.

To make this bag you will require 18 charm squares from your pack. Pick them at random or hand select your favourites like I did.

When I sew hexagons, I use pre-cut hexagon templates. Alternatively you can make your own. The ones I have used are two inch {ie. the length of each side measures two inches}.

Step 2.

Place your hexagon template over you first charm square and rotary cut around it allowing slightly more than 1/4 inch. I find 1/4 inch not quite enough. Some people don’t cut off the excess but I prefer to. It may give the bag a better finish if you do cut them off.

Step 3.

Place your first cut hexagon on a stack of five or so charms as a guide. Continue to cut out the remaining hexagons from all eighteen squares.

Step 4.

Lay your hexagon template on the wrong side of your first cut piece and evenly fold the first side down. Using a threaded needle, work your way all the way around the edge using a long basting stitch to hold the sides in place. See below.

You will end up with a pretty pile like this after a little while.

Step 5.

You are now ready to start joining your hexagons together. Place them right sides together and whip stitch along the edge. See image.

Use my pictures as a guide to how to arrange the hexagons.

You can join them in rows or make two hexagon flowers like I did below. I wanted to see what the front and back of the bag would look like so I joined them this way. I wanted the red in the centre front of the bag.

Keep working your way around until all 16 pieces are joined in the shape below.

Step 6.

Placed the two remaining hexagons, right sides together on the hexagon at either end.

Only stitch these two end hexagons on along the two sides as indicated in the photo. Leaving the end opening open to insert the strap into.

Step 7.

You can now fold the bag in half and partially stitch down the sides. Only stitch down three hexagon sides, from where I have indicated below.

Step 8.

After stitching the sides, turn your bag sideways and you will have an opening at the bottom. Lift the bottom hexagon (green) up to meet the two (yellow) hexagons above it. Stitch along these two sides.

This is how it will appear on the finished bag.

Step 9.

You can now snip your basting threads and remove the paper templates. Turn your bag so the correct side of the fabric is facing out. Flip over the top two top hexagons so they face the inside of the bag.

Give the bag a gentle press along the edges.

Step 10.

To make the lining and handles you will need to cut the following pieces.

Bag lining 9 by 19 inches.

Bag straps 2.5 by 14 inches.

Optional – if you want a stiffer handle cut a 2.5 by 14 inch piece of iron on interfacing and fix to wrong side of one of the bag straps.

Step 11.

Press over about 1/2 inch the top edges of the bag lining.

Flatten pressed edge out and sew along side seam as shown.

Lay your bag exterior over lining and mark with a pin the position to sew the opposite side seam. This will make sure your bag lining fits snuggly into the bag exterior.

If necessary, trim excess fabric off the side seams back to about 1/4 inch. Fold each corner as shown and stitch across the corner one inch from the end of the side seam stitching. This will box out the bottom of the lining. Trim off excess back to 1/4 inch.

Step 12.

Fold over the top along the pressed mark.

Insert lining into bag, pin and then slip stitch around the top edge.

Step 13.

Iron on interfacing to wrong side of one bag strap.

Stitch bag straps together, right sides together along the long edge. Check required width against strap opening and stitch along the other side.

Turn strap in the right way, press and then insert the ends into the opening on the bag as shown. Insert about 1/2 an inch. Pin and hand stitch in place and you are finished.