Candy Circle Quilt



Hi there, this is Cheryl from Meadow Mist Designs and I am so excited to share my first project for Moda Bake Shop!  I love the cute Moda candy packs and all of Fig Tree & Co.’s fabric lines so I was thrilled to combine them to make the Candy Circle baby quilt.  With just four mini charm packs (or just one charm pack), a focal print fabric, and some background fabric, you can have a cute baby quilt ready to gift.


4 mini charm packs (also called candy packs) or 1 charm pack:  Mirabelle by Fig Tree & Co.

3/4 yard of a focal print: Mirabelle Breeze 20225
5/8 yard of a background fabric (3/4 yard if you include the optional pieced backing): Bella Solids White Bleached
3/8 yard for binding: Mirabelle Bark 20227
1 and 1/4 yards for backing: Bella Solids Green Olive (for a 2″ overhang)




Step One – Cutting the Fabrics
*Note: if you cut each strip in each step you may have a few extra pieces cut.

Candy Squares

1)      If starting with a charm pack, cut each (5” x 5”) charm square into 4 (2.5” x 2.5”) patchwork squares for a total of 168 squares (2.5” x 2.5”) (if starting with candy packs, skip to step 2)

2)      Select 132 of the 168 squares (2.5” x 2.5”) to use in the front of your quilt.  Pick squares with good contrast with the background.  You can use the leftover squares for a pieced backing.


Focal Fabric
1)      Cut 3 strips 4.5” x WOF strips

      a)      Cut each strip into 4.5” x 4.5” squares (9 per strip) for 24 squares (4.5” x 4.5”)
These 4.5” x 4.5” squares are the “full focal blocks”.


2)      Cut 4 strips 2.5” x WOF
a)      Cut 2 strips into 2.5” x 4.5” rectangles (9 per strip) for 12 rectangles (2.5” x 4.5”)
b)   Cut 2 strips into 2.5” x 2.5” squares (16 per strip) for 28 squares (2.5” x 2.5”)
  

Background Fabric (abbreviated bg in this pattern)
1)      Cut 8 strips 2.5” x WOF
a)      Cut 4 strips into 2.5” x 4.5” rectangles (9 per strip) for 28 rectangles (2.5” x 4.5”)

      b)      Cut 4 strips into 2.5” x 2.5” squares (16 per strip) for 64 squares (2.5” x 2.5”)

  
Step Two: Assembling the Blocks

The Candy Circle quilt contains 6 types of blocks.  Using the following amounts of fabric pieces and following the sewing pictures, sew pieces into rows and then rows together into blocks.  Press all seams open.

Full Focal Blocks:
24 focal print squares (4.5″ x 4.5″)

1/4 Focal Blocks
Using 16 bg squares (2.5″ x 2.5″), 16 bg rectangles (2.5″ x 4.5″), and 16 focal print squares (2.5″ x 2.5″), make 16 1/4 Focal Blocks

3/4 Focal Blocks
Using 12 bg squares (2.5″ x 2.5″), 12 focal print squares (2.5″ x 2.5″), and 12 focal print rectangles (2.5″ x 4.5″), make 12 3/4 Focal Blocks

Full Patchwork Blocks:
Using 48 focal print squares (2.5″ x 2.5″), make 12 Full Patchwork Blocks


3/4 Patchwork Blocks
Using 72 patchwork print squares (2.5″ x 2.5″) and 24 bg squares (2.5″ x 2.5″), make 24 3/4 Focal Blocks

1/4 Patchwork Blocks
Using 12 bg squares (2.5″ x 2.5″), 12 bg rectangles (2.5″ x 4.5″), and 12 patchwork squares (2.5″ x 2.5″), make 12 1/4 Patchwork Blocks


Step Three: Assembling the Quilt Sections

The quilt contains 4 quilt sections, each section containing 25 blocks in a 5 rows x 5 columns arrangement.  Each section contains the following number of blocks:

 

Arrange the 25 blocks in a 5 by 5 block arrangement as shown below:


Sew blocks together into rows (pressing seams open) and then sew rows together pining at each intersecting seam (pressing seams open).


Repeat 3 more times for a total of 4 quilt sections.  (Alternatively, you may layout the full 10 x 10 block arrangement for the whole quilt, sew the blocks into rows, then sew the rows together).

Sew the 4 quilt sections together (pressing seams open).

Optional Pieced Backing

Select 22 patchwork squares
Cut 2 additional strips 2.5″ x WOF of the background fabric

Sew the 22 patchwork squares into a row, then sew the 2.5″ x WOF background strips onto either side of the patchwork row.

Slice the backing yardage (I made my cut about 2/3 of the way across the fabric) and sew the patchwork section into the background yardage.  



Step 4: Finishing the Quilt

1)    Layer the quilt top, batting, and backing and baste the quilt.

2)    Quilt as desired.  I quilted the focal fabric areas in a straight line lattice, quilted the background areas using a small pebble design, and quilted the patchwork squares with straight line quilting.

3)    Bind the quilt using 5 strips 2.5” x WOF (for straight, not bias binding).  More information on binding can be found here.

Thank you so much for joining me in my first Moda Bake Shop tutorial.  I would love to see what you make with the pattern, please add your quilts to the Moda Bake Shop flicker group and the Meadow Mist Designs flicker group.  Visit this page on my blog (www.meadowmistdesigns.blogspot.com) to see the quilt pattern rendered in other colors including a holiday version.

Cheryl Brickey
{
Meadow Mist Designs}


Applique Hearts Pillow

 

Hi All! This is Jera from www.QuiltingintheRain.com bringing you this simple Applique Hearts Pillow tutorial just in time for Valentine’s day. Depending on what fabrics you use, the pillow can be used year round. This pillow has an easy envelope enclosure, making this a quick and fun weekend project that you can complete in a few hours.

Also, I wanted to share that I have a quilting book coming out this year, so come check out my blog for details (or for some great tutorials!), or follow me (and my corgi, Paige) at Quilting in the Rain’s Facebook to see my latest quilts and projects. Thank you so much for stopping by! Let your creativity rain!

  • 1 yard Moda Solids Prairie Cloth in Buff (this material is home decor weight but has a linen/canvas feel to it) 
  • 1 Bella Solids charm pack in Porcela, plus one scrap for the colored heart
  • Clear glue that works on fabric
  • Coordinating thread
  • 20″ square pillow insert


1. From the prairie cloth, cut one 21″ square. For the back of the pillow, cut two 15″ x 21″ rectangles (these will be made into the envelope closure).

From the charm squares, cut hearts of varying shapes and sizes. I think the variety and imperfection of the heart shapes adds character to the pillow. To cut a big heart, simply fold a charm square in half and crease it with your finger so it stays folded. Then, use fabric scissors to cut the arch of ‘half of a heart’ along the folded edge. When you unfold it, you will have a heart shape.

To make smaller hearts,  repeat but cut two hearts from one charm square. 

I started by cutting approximately 8 big hearts, and then filled up the pillow with smaller and medium sized hearts. Also, from your scrap fabric cut one medium-size colored heart.
2. Next, arrange the hearts on the 21″ square.
3.Use clear glue that works on fabric to temporarily hold the hearts in place. Use very little glue as this is just an alternative to using pins and is meant to be temporary. For each heart I put the tiniest drop of glue and then spread it with my finger to make a very thin layer.
This is the glue I ended up using but i’m sure Elmers would work just as well. I just recommend getting a clear adhesive.
4. Sew the hearts in place using a regular presser foot. I simply guided the edge of my presser foot along the heart to sew a 1/4″ seam allowance, using a straight stitch setting.
If you’ve never done this before, to get around the curves of the heart you will need to stop and pivot the fabric quite often. To do this, simply stop sewing with the needle in down position, lift the presser foot and pivot the fabric underneath to follow the curve. You’ll get the hang of it. 🙂 
5. Along the length of a 15″ x 21″ rectangles,  turn the edge 1/4″ under, press, then turn under 1″, then press again. Stitch along the fold to keep in place as shown below. Repeat on the other rectangle as well.

6. With right sides facing together, take one rectangle and align it along the left side of the pillow cover. The finished seam you created from the previous step should be facing toward the right. Pin to keep in place, then sew a 1/2″ seam allowance along the perimeter as illustrated by the dashed line below. Start and end your stitch with a back-stitch.

Repeat with the other rectangle, but align it on the right side of the pillow.

Clip the corners to rid of bulk and then turn right side out through the envelope opening.

7. Lastly, rub your hands up and down the pillow to help ruffle-up the edges of the hearts. The semi-freyed and ruffled hearts adds texture to the pillow. The freying will not go beyond the stitch. 

And there you have it! A beautiful, applique heart pillow!


One fabulous 20″ x 20″ pillow

Thanks again for checking out my tutorial! Come visit me at www.QuiltingintheRain.com or follow me on Facebook at QuiltingintheRain. You can also find me on Instagram.

Let your creativity rain! 🙂

Jera Brandvig
{www.QuiltingintheRain.com}

Redbird and Berries Mini Quilt


Greetings Moda Bake Shop readers and Happy New Year!   It’s Karen from Karen’s Quilts, Crows and Cardinals Blog excited to share the “Redbird and Berries” mini-quilt with you!

Oh so luscious Mini Charms of Little Black Dress 2 by BasicGrey were used for the border of this cute little wall hanging while scrumptious coordinating Grunge fabrics were used for the background and applique pieces.

The recipe includes a bit of piecing, applique, free motion and straight line quilting.  You’ll also learn to make Perfect Circle berries and bias stems.   I hope you find the variety intriguing because when you’re done the mini quilt will *Charm* all who see it!

Quilt Border:

  • 3 or 4 Mini Charm Packs of Little Black Dress 2 by BasicGrey  (88 2.5″ fabric pieces)

Applique Background:

  • 14.5″ by 22.5″ Grunge Basics Cream (30150-160) by BasicGrey

Applique Pieces:

  • 1 Fat Quarter Grunge Basics Grey Couture (30150-163) by BasicGrey for Stems
  • Fat Eighth or Scraps of Grunge Basics Kissing Booth Cherry Cordial (30150-167) or Grunge Red (30150-151) by BasicGrey for Bird and/or Berries
  • Scraps of Black and Reddish Orange Fabric for Bird Mask and Beak – I used Moda Black and Grunge Radish

Batting/Backing/Binding

  • 27″ by 35″ piece of fabric for backing
  • 27″ by 35″ batting
  • 1/4 yard of  fabric for binding
  • Perfect Circles or heat resistant template plastic or thin cardboard for berries
  • Freezer Paper or Template Plastic for making applique templates
  • Clover Bias Tape Maker – Size 6 (1/4″) for tree stems
  • Spray Starch or Sizing for Berries
  • Aurifil Mako 50 Wt – Color 2325 for Piecing and Border Quilting
  • Aurifil Mako 50 Wt – Color 2000 Quilting Background
  • Aurifil Mako 50 Wt – Color 2460 for Red Applique
  • Aurifil Mako 50 Wt – Color 2605 for Gray Stem Applique 

Pre-cut Basics:  

Before working with Mini Charms it’s helpful to run a lint brush over the edges.  This will reduce the amount of “little fuzzies” adorning your workspace 😉

Also, when working with any of the Moda Pre-cut fabrics always treat the outer most tip of the pinking as the edge.  This is especially important when piecing – the accuracy of your piecing depends on it.

For the piecing on this project you’ll need to know exactly where your 1/4 seam mark is on your sewing foot.  The walking foot below is clearly marked — I LOVE using it for accurate piecing.  

Measuring Seam Allowance Accuracy:

A great way to test the accuracy of a scant 1/4 inch seam allowance is by sewing three mini charms together.  Press to set the seams, press the seams to one side, flip over and measure. The middle charm should measure exactly 2 inches wide.  If not, adjust your seam allowance until it does.

Now lets get started with our recipe:

Step 1:  Layout/Design the border:

Layout your mini charms in a manner which is pleasing to YOUR eye.  Each quadrant of the border will be 11 charms high by 2 charms wide for a total of 22 charms in each of the 4 quadrants.   The complete border will use 88 charms.

I’m one of those CRAZY symmetrical types so a scrappy layout wasn’t in the cards for me.  Instead I designed one quadrant at a time, alternating light and dark pieces and making the opposite quadrant a diagonal mirror image.  Checkout the picture below.  I love the checkerboard effect!

To duplicate the layout above you will need 4 Mini Charms packs.  If you would rather go scrappy or change the layout you can get away with using 2 Mini Charm packs and cutting 4 mini charm pieces from one of your grunge fabrics 😉  Overall you’ll need 88 2.5″ square pieces of fabric for the border.

Step 2:  Sew a Border Quadrant (for each of the 4 quadrants):

Once you’ve finalized your border layout/design, pick one quadrant and sew the pairs together – chain stitching all 11 pair of your light/dark fabric.  Chain piecing allows you to quickly sew the 11 pair without cutting your thread.  Once you’ve chain stitched the 11 pair are all attached in the correct order.

When finished chain piecing 11 pair of a quadrant, remove them from your machine and lay them (still connected to one another) on your ironing space with the darker fabrics facing up.  This allows you to “set” your seam by pressing them flat, and then pressing again in the desired direction – in this case it’s best to press toward the dark fabric.

On a checkerboard layout, pressing toward the dark will enable you to nest your seams when you sew your pairs into 4 x 2 and then into 8 x 2’s and so on.  Nesting your seams allows for more accurate intersections.

Clip the threads attached to the first 2 pair and prepare to sew 2 – 2×2’s into a 4 patch.
Nest the seams for accurate alignment, pin and sew.  Repeat this effort until you’ve created an 11 x 2 quadrant of your border.

If you are following a light/dark arrangement (checkerboard) with a pattern to your layout (like I did), I suggest stopping and spot checking your order as you sew ; )  I ALWAYS take a picture of the layout before beginning to sew.  Use the picture to be sure you are sewing your pairs and your 11×2 sections together in the desired arrangement.

Once you have a quadrant that is 11 long by 2 wide,  press to set the seams, and then press all the seams of a quadrant in the same direction.  For ease of attaching to the background fabric you can press this way:

  • right side border should be pressed downward
  • left side border pressed upward
  • bottom border pressed to the left
  • top border pressed to the right.  

Each of the 4 quadrants should measure 22.5 inches long and 4.5 inches wide.

Once all 4 quadrants are prepared, it’s time to put it all together!

Step 3: Cut background fabric and attach borders:

Using Grunge Cream cut a piece of background fabric 14.5″ by 22.5″.

Attach the side borders to the background fabric first, press to set the seams, then press the seams toward the border.

Next attach the top and bottom borders, setting the seams and pressing them toward the border.  You only have two seams to match on this border — so simple 😉

Woohoo!  Now your top is ready for the applique. The top should measure 22.5 inches wide by 30.5 inches long.

Applique:

The applique on the sample was completed by hand, but you can use your favorite applique method to complete yours.  The stems, berries and bird can be done with two sided fusible, raw edge machine applique, or any other applique method.  The sample was completed with bias stems, perfect circle berries, and a needle turn applique Redbird.  You can learn more about Needle Turn applique by visiting the “Teardrops of Love” tutorial on my blog.

Applique Prep 1 – Prepare Strips for Bias Stems:

You will need 10 or so 1/2 inch bias strips of Grunge Gray Couture.  If you’ve never made a bias strip before, don’t worry — just follow these simple steps:

  • Start with a fat quarter of Grunge Grey Couture
  • Iron your fabric – cut a straight edge if there isn’t one already.
  • Most rotary rulers include a 45 degree angle mark on them – find it on your ruler.
  • Lay the 45 degree angle mark on the selvage edge of your fabric.  This will align the cut edge of your ruler on a 45 degree angle. 
  •  Use a rotary cutter and cut a straight edge on the bias (the diagonal above).
  • Gently slide your ruler over to the 1/2″ mark (with the 45 degree line still on the selvage) and cut a 1/2 inch strip.
  • Repeat this process until you have 10 or more 1/2″ strips cut on the bias.

Note: Use Caution when handling the strips — when fabric is cut on the bias it will easily stretch.

Applique Prep 2 – Make Bias Stems:

  • Using the Clover #6 – 1/4″ Bias Tape Maker (BTM) feed one end of your 1/2″ bias strip through the wide end of the BTM with fabric right side up.  Use a pin to advance the fabric through the BTM to the narrow end if necessary.  Leave about 1/2″ of the strip showing on the narrow end.
  • Position your iron so the side of the iron is against the narrow end of the BTM.
  • Note: The BTM instructions say to move the tool with the hand that is not ironing — but I prefer to use the iron to move the tool.
  • The iron should be set on a “Cotton” heat with steam and a fair amount of pressure should be applied as you glide the iron over the fabric to make the bias stem.  Once you start pressing to the left  – keep going – don’t stop mid strip. 
  • Some would suggest you use a light starch on the fabric before beginning to make the tape — feel free to do so – it makes the bias tape hold its shape. 

Completed bias stems:

Applique Prep 3 – Make Berries:

Using Karen Kay Buckley’s Perfect Circles templates choose the 1/2 inch diameter template.  If you don’t own Perfect Circles, use the heavy piece of cardboard that backed your Mini Charm pack to cut a template.  

  • Cut 65-75 1″ circles for berries — I used a variety of fabrics, including Red Grunge, Moda Marbles and some of the extra Little Black Dress mini charms. Use a US Quarter coin to cut 1″ circles if necessary.
  • Once the 1 inch circles are cut , hand sew a running stitch around the perimeter of the fabric circles – leaving approximately a 6″ tail of thread attached to the fabric circle. Do not knot the thread after you’ve finished the running stitch.
  • Place a Perfect Circle template in the center of the fabric.  
  • Pull the thread taut around the Perfect Circle, drawing the fabric tight around the template.
  • Place the unit right side down on the ironing surface, spray a bit of starch or sizing on the back side of the drawn fabric and place a medium heat, dry iron on the piece(s) until the berry is completely dry (a minute or two depending on how much spray starch you use).
  • Remove the iron, allow the berry and template to cool, then peel the edge of the fabric back to  remove the  template.  
  • Reshape the circle by pulling the thread taut again and press once more to set the circle.

A collection of berries: The sample contained about 75 berries and included some berries made from the leftover Little Black Dress 2 mini-charms (not shown below).

Applique Step 4  – Layout and Attach Stems to Background:

Layout stems in a manner which is pleasing to your eye.  If you would like your completed work to look like the sample, use the “Final Applique Layout” picture (below) to arrange the stems and berries.

I use pins to secure the applique stems to the background prior to stitching.  This method allows the stem to float for re-arranging.  You can also baste or glue baste the stems in place for stitching.

Once arranged, use an invisible stitch (similar to the stitch used for needle turn applique) to attach the stems to the background.   You can see more about applique stitch here.

A couple of tips when working with stems:

  • When stems are made on the bias they are very flexible – so they curve easily.  Just pin or glue or baste in the position you like.
  • To hide a raw edge tip of a stem fold the end under once and secure when you sew the stem.
  • Create a fork in your stems by tucking the end of a stem under another section of stem or by folding a long piece of stem in two.
  • You don’t need stems that are so long they are unmanageable.  Just put one stem end against the other and sew — place a berry on it to cover the intersection if you like. 

Attach your stems to the background fabric by hand or machine.  Again, you can learn more about needle turn applique on the “Teardrops of Love” tutorial on my blog.

Applique Step 5 – Layout and Attach Berries and Bird:

Berries or Redbird first?  The choice is yours.  I did a few berries and then the Redbird and finished up with Berries.

Arrange and pin some berries in place.  I limited the number pinned at one time so my threads were not getting caught on the applique pins. 

Stitch the berries by hand or machine.  If stitching by hand use the same “invisible” stitch used on the stems and used for most needle turn applique.

Applique  – Prepare and Applique the Redbird:

Note: The Redbird applique template can be found in the “Printer Friendly” version of this recipe.

In the sample, Needle Turn applique was used for the Redbird, his mask, and beak – but any method can be used to complete this step.  I won’t go into Needle Turn Applique techniques here but please visit my blog and/or leave me questions below if you run into trouble completing the bird.  I do have pictures of each applique step and would be happy to share them on my blog if it would be helpful.  Please let me know.

Normally, to prepare applique shapes, I would print the applique templates directly onto the dull side of a piece of freezer paper; however, for this recipe I decided to use template plastic so I could fussy cut the Redbird from the beautiful Grunge fabric. If you’re using turned applique, trace the bird onto the fabric with any of the marking tools identified here and cut out with an 1/8″ plus seam allowance.

Did I mention how much I LOVE Grunge?  – OR – how well it goes with the Little Black Dress 2 fabric line?   It really is a beautiful line of fabric.  No kidding!!

Next applique the bird to the background.  Stitch the body first, then the mask, and lastly the beak.

If you haven’t done so already, finish attaching all of your beautiful berries to the background. Each berry adds dimension to the overall design.  I didn’t fret much about making my berries perfect – because in real life they are not.  The sample berries were stitched by hand.

Final Applique Layout:

Note: Often when you applique a quilt top, the overall dimension gets smaller.  The applique stitching tends to pull in the sides of a quilt top.  No need for concern — the quilting will probably shrink it more!

Prepare for Quilting:

If you are unfamiliar with the steps necessary to prepare a top for quilting, there are detailed instructions specified in the Family Tree Pillow Recipe here.

For the sample I used two layers of batting to provide both loft and stability.  One layer of 100% Wool Batting and one Layer of Warm and Natural Cotton batting.

I also pieced the back for this particular quilt.  The backing measured 27″ x 35″.

I started quilting by straight line stitching around the perimeter of the background fabric and again around the perimeter of the first rows of charms.  I almost always “stitch in the ditch” to stabilize the quilt before starting to Free Motion Quilt.

For the background quilting I used Aurifil Mako 50 Wt Cotton in Color #2000.  This thread glides through my Janome and I never get thread breaks.  The color matches the Grunge Creme perfectly!

Always be sure to match your top and bobbin threads when Free Motion Quilting.  So we are now echo quilting around each applique piece (removing pins as necessary).  Once done repeat the echo quilting around all applique and stems.  In hindsight I wish I had echo quilted one more time before starting my background quilting.  As you can see below, I quilted in some mock berries to add interest.

To complete the background quilting I used a “McTavishing” like design – a variety described as “Nifty Little S’s” shared by Wendy Sheppard of Ivory Spring Blog. This design is so forgiving and allows you to move around the applique pieces with ease.

Once the background quilting was completed I added some straight line quilting (with a walking foot) on the mini-charms.  I used a walking foot as a width guide and quilted every 1/2 inch around the perimeter of the background.  The straight line stitching shows up best on the back of the quilt.  For this quilting I used Aurifil Mako 50Wt Cotton in Color #2325.  Again, I just love the way the Aurifil quilts – I couldn’t be happier with this thread!

Below is another picture that shows the pretty straight line quilting on the charms.

When finished quilting, the sample “squared” to 21.5″ wide by 29.5″ long.  The applique and dense quilting ate up 1 inch each of the width and length.

The next step is to prepare hanging sleeves and binding as desired.  There is a great Moda Basics Tutorial for Binding here.

The sample binding was completed using a 2.25″ wide binding (folded) and a 3/8″ seam allowance to sew it on the front and hand stitch it to the back.  I also added two hanging sleeves (either side of the middle) using two 5.5″ by 8.5 inch pieces of fabric.

If you’ve made it to this point of the tutorial congratulations!   I hope you’ve enjoyed learning about bias stems, Perfect Circles, applique and some free motion quilting.

Working with these methods opens a new door to the world of quilting doesn’t it ?    It’s sew much fun!

One 21.5″ x 29.5″ Wall Hanging or Table Topper or Mini Quilt.

If you have questions, leave them in the comments below — I’ll be happy to answer them.

Please be sure to swing by my blog and check out my tutorials, lessons learned and completed projects.   I would love to have you join the fun and give me feedback on this recipe.

I look forward to seeing you there!

Karen Miller
{www.karensquiltscrowscardinals.blogspot.com}

Candy Stars Mini Quilt


Hello everyone!  My name is Chrissy Lux and I co-own Sew Lux Fabric with my mom.  I am really excited to be back on the Moda Bake Shop sharing another project with you today.

Moda Candy precuts (mini charms) are super cute and so easy to collect!  Here’s a fun & quick mini quilt project that could easily be enlarged to make a bigger version – just add more candy!

Fabric Needed:
76 mini charms *
1 yard solid for Background (Bella White Bleached 9900 98)
1 yard for backing (Mixed Bag Dots 32870 21)
1/4 yard for binding (Bella Etchings Slate 9900 170)

(*I used 4 packs of the New Bella Solids, which have 30 mini charms.  But most print collections have 42, so you may only need 2 candy/mini charm packs if you are going for a scrappy look.) 

Tools Needed: 
Machine & basic sewing supplies

Use a 1/4″ seam throughout. 
Step 1: Prep Background & Borders: 
From the solid background, cut the following: 
TWO 2.5″ x WOF strips – SUBCUT into twenty (20) 2.5″ squares
THREE 2.5″ x WOF strips – SUBCUT into twenty-eight (28) 2.5″ x 4.5″ rectangles
TWO 2.5″ x WOF strips – SUBCUT into eight (8) 2.5″ x 8.5″ rectangles
FOUR – 3.5″ x WOF strips for borders
For this project, we’ll make two blocks – a variable star and a simple 4 patch.  You’ll need four 4-patch blocks and five star blocks.  
Step 2: Sort your Squares
Sort your candy squares into piles with five piles of 12 squares (corners & center) and four piles of four squares (middle of top & bottom row and left and right columns) as shown. 
Since I was using solids, I sorted mine by color into a ROYGBIV type of color wheel.  Because of this, I took extra time while sewing to make sure I kept things in the correct order and placement.  If you are using prints to create a scrappy look, you can certainly sew a little more carefree!  🙂 

Step 3: Make the 4-Patch Units
The 4-patch blocks are easy to whip together.  Sew two sets to two squares together.  Press in opposite directions.

Then stitch them together.

Repeat this process for the four 4-patch units. Next, we’ll add borders to complete the units.

Sew a 2.5″ strip to the top and bottom of your 4-patch unit.  Press toward the border/away from the 4-patch.

Then add the 2.5″ x 8.5″ sides.  Press toward the center.  Repeat to complete all four 4-patch units.

Step 4: Make the Variable Star Units
For these blocks, you will start by making a 4-patch for the center.   Then we’ll make and add wonky geese on the sides to create the star.

Place one candy square on top of one 2.5″ x 4.5″ rectangle. (If using prints, remember to place right sides together!)  Sew on the diagonal, being sure that when you fold the square over, it will cover all of the background rectangle.

Trim away excess fabric and press toward the candy square.

Next, add another candy square opposite of the first.  Sew along the diagonal, trim away excess and press towards the candy square fabric.
TIP:  Since these are so small, I just finger press to create a crease down the diagonal as a sewing guide. If you prefer to mark with a pencil or disappearing ink, feel free. 

Trim your completed wonky geese unit to 2.5″ x 4.5″.

Assemble the star, by sewing two geese units to the top and bottom – press toward the center.

Then sew 2.5″ background squares to the sides of the remaining two geese units, pressing toward the background squares.

Then sew the side units to the center, and press away from the center.

Step 5: Assemble the Top
Now, its time to assemble your quilt top!   Start by making a large 9-patch with your 4-patch and variable star blocks.

Then add border strips to the sides and then the top and bottom.

Layer and quilt as desired.  Finish by adding binding.  (Need help binding?  MBS tutorial here.) 

You can easily make this project with prints – here is a mock up of what it might look like in Scrumptious by Bonnie & Camille.

Hope you enjoyed this project!


1 Sweet Mini Quilt approximately 30 in x 30 in.

Chrissy Lux
{www.sewlux.blogspot.com

Prairie Stars Table Runner


Hi! My name is Kymberly from Peas in a Pod Creations. I’m so excited to be back on the Moda Bake Shop today with this cute table runner. It might look hard, but with the candy charm squares it’s actually pretty easy and versatile. Be sure to scroll to the bottom of this post to see how this runner looks in solids.


4 candy mini-charm packs or 1 charm pack (for this runner I used Kansas Troubles Favorites II)
1/2 yd. dark blue fabric (this will be used for sashing, backing, and binding)
1/8 yd. cream fabric (note: you will need (10) 2.5″ square cornerstones so you could use a jelly roll strip or other scrap)

*Since the Candy mini-charms are 2.5″ square they can easily be created from larger pre-cuts if you can’t find them at your LQS. I wanted some extra fabric so I started with a layer cake, but a charm pack is the perfect substitute in this pattern if you can’t find the mini-charms.

If you’re working with something bigger than the mini-charms cut your fabric into 2.5″ squares.
Match the fabrics from your mini-charm packs and decide which colors you want to use for each star. Kansas Troubles Favorites II has several fabrics in each color so I chose to make a brown, blue, red, and green star. Choose three color/dark fabrics and three lights for each star. 
Decide which square will be the center of your star and set aside. Cut your remaining squares in half diagonally to create triangles and sew along short sides of triangles. The corners are made of 2″ HSTs that are created by sewing two small triangles together. I found an easy cheat if you don’t always have perfect points is to sew like fabrics together. This is also a great way to practice those quarter square pieces.
Sew triangles into squares and trim to 2.5″.
 I forgot to take a picture of the star points in progress, but it’s the same process as the corner units. The only difference is this time you won’t sew likes with likes. Sew a dark triangle to a light along a short side to create a larger triangle. Sew two large triangles together to create a square and trim to 2.5″.

Assemble pieces as shown, and repeat process for remaining three stars.
Cut dark yardage into 2.5″ strips and subdivide into (13) 6.5″ long rectangles for sashing. Cut (10) 2.5″ squares from light fabric for cornerstones. My favorite method for doing sashing is to sew a long strip on one edge of the block. On the last block sew a second strip opposite the first. Chain piece (8) cornerstones to the remaining strips, and choose two strips to attach cornerstones to the opposite edge. Press blocks and strips and sew a sashing strip to the top of each block. Make sure that the sashing with two cornerstones goes on the block with two strips of sashing. (If I was doing this in a quilt with more than one row I’d sew all of my blocks like this and only the last row would continue with the next step.) Attach your remaining sashing/cornerstone units to your blocks and sew blocks into a row.
I chose to quilt this table runner using a walking foot to quilt in the ditch around the stars.
One 33″x10″ table runner.
Here’s another version of this table runner made with solids and all of the blocks the same. Each star is 6″ square so the length of this table runner can easily be adjusted by adding or subtracting stars.
Hop over to my blog to see a way to use the mini charms to make matching mug rugs.
Kymberly Pease

Little Lady Ragged Bags



Today we are making a ragged tote bag that is the perfect size for little girls. It’s easy to make and fun to use.  I often give them for gifts filled with little toys or coloring books.

*2 packs of Moda Candy
*1/2 yard of white fabric (or coordinating fabric of your choice) for the lining
*1/2 yard of natural colored felt 

#1.  From your white fabric cut 66 squares that are 2 and 1/2 inches.
#2.  From your felt cut 66 squares that are 2 and 1/2 inches.
#3.  Open your Moda Candy packs!
#4.  Layer your squares for your bag.  Put 1 white square on the bottom, a piece of felt in the middle, and your printed fabric on the top.  (With the right sides facing out on both the white and the printed fabric.)
#5.  Choose two squares that you would like to place next to each other.  Place them (still stacked with the felt and white fabric) with the white fabric together in the middle.  Now your stack is 6 pieces deep!  (But don’t worry…your machine can handle it! 🙂
#6.  Once you are all stacked up sew down one side of your stack.  Then open it up!  (Your seams will be on the OUTSIDE and it will look crazy but that is ok…that is how you want it to look for this project!)
*Note:  For this project use a generous quarter inch seam.

#7.  Repeat the process for the 2 squares that you would like to attach underneath the pair you just made.  Once you are done place your two pairs of squares together with the white in the middle (your prints facing outward) and sew them together.

#8. Unfold and see the cute little 4 patch you just created!  Now repeat this process 13 more times.  (So that you have a total of 14 little 4 patches!)

#9.  Now select the 4 four patch squares that you would like to use for the front of your bag.

#10.  Sew the 4 squares together in the same manner you’ve been sewing thus far.  (With the white fabric in the middle and the printed sides out).  Once you are finished repeat this process for the back side of your bag.

#11.  Now we just need to sew up the two side pieces and the bottom piece for the bag.  Both the sides and the bottom are made up of 2 four patch squares sewn together.  The only difference between the sides and the bottom is just making sure any directional prints are going the right way on the pieces you choose for the sides.  So put together 2 side panels and one bottom panel. 

#12.  We have all of our pieces ready so now it’s time to construct our bag.  Put your front panel and your side panel WHITE sides together and sew it up!

 #13.  Next put that same side panel and your back panel WHITE sides together and sew it up as well!
 #14.  Now, I know what your thinking…it’s time add the other side panel.  But it’s not.  I mean I guess you could but I wouldn’t and don’t.  I add the bottom panel next.  So you will be sewing the bottom WHITE sides together in one long line across the front, pivot, down the side, pivot, and along the back side. 
#15.   Now add you last side panel…white sides together…sew down the front, pivot, across the bottom, pivot, and up the back.  Now your bag is completely formed.

#16.  We need to make the strap/handle now.  Sew together 10 fabric and felt sandwiches (exactly how we did in steps 4 and 5 only now we are sewing 10 together in a long strip instead of just 2).

#17.  Now sew a 1/4 inch seam down each side of your strap like shown in the photo below.
#18.  We are ready to attach the strap now!  Position it on the side panels right between the 2 small squares making up the top of the 4 patch squares as shown in the picture below.  I place the strap right behind the side panel and down inside the bag about 1 inch.  Then I sew the first strap on and continue stitching around the entire circumference keeping the 1/4 inch seam until I get to the next strap, which I sew on, and continue around the bag until I come back to the place where I began.

#19.  The only thing we have left to do is clip our seams.  Snip along all seam lines about every 1/4 inch like shown in the photo below.  Clip to the stitching but NOT through the stitching!!

#20.  When I finish my bags I always throw them in the washing machine on the rinse cycle and then into the dryer.  This will fluff up all those clipped and snipped seams and make them soft and cute.  This last step isn’t necessary but I always do it.

***NOTE***
There are other ways that these bags can be assembled.  However, I’ve made over 500 of these little guys and this is the way that I’ve found to have them best hold their shape and be the easiest to sew.


*1 little girls tote bag
(And 1 big disagreement if you happen to have more than 1 little girl!)

 Simple Simon & Co.
{www.simplesimonandco.com}

Candy Squares Table Runner



Hello, again! I’m Shannon from Modern Tradition Quilts and I am so excited to be a part of Moda Bake Shop today.  It’s great to share my Candy Squares Table runner made from those darling pre-cut Mini Charm packages–Moda Candy.  They are so cute that they’re sweet!  The 2 1/2 inch squares work-up into 2 inch squares–perfect for a postage-stamp style  quilt.  I love using pre-cuts, don’t you?  I also love the Little Black Dress fabric line by Basic Grey.  It works beautifully with modern home decor and will make a beautiful addition to any table at any time of the year.  This is one project that can be displayed all year round!  So, let’s get down to business!

2 Packages of Moda 2 1/2 inch pre-cut Mini-Charms (I used Little Black Dress)
1/2 yard white dot for setting squares (I used Little Black Dress Ivory Dot)
1/3 yard for outer borders (I used Little Black Dress Grey Dot)
1/3 yard for binding (I used Little Black Dress Cream Black)

LAYOUT YOUR MINI-CHARMS

This is the fun part!   Playing with all of those prints and trying to make it so that no two of the same print touch one another.  It is helpful to look at your candy pieces in gray-scale to see if there are any similarly valued pieces touching one another.  If you don’t want to use a yellow filter, you can always squint at it to get your eyes to notice the gray-scale.

CUTTING INSTRUCTIONS

For the setting squares, cut seven squares measuring 4 7/8 inches from the width of fabric (WOF), then cut them in half diagonally to yield 14 triangle units.

Also cut one square measuring 2 7/8 inches and cut it into quarters diagonally to get the setting triangles for the four outer corners.

For the outer border, cut four strips from the WOF measuring 3 1/2 inches wide.

PIECING INSTRUCTIONS

Due to the fact that this quilt has odd numbered rows, it would appear that the triangle units would need to be set-in.  This can be difficult for new quilters and I have found a way to get around it by simply doing the piecing in several sections.  Please refer to the number in the photo for final section placement.

  • Section One and Five: Sew two rows consisting of 5 candy squares with a triangle unit added at the end.

Sections 1 and 5
  • Section Two and Four:  Sew two rows consisting of 7 candy squares with a single triangle unit added at the end.

Sections 2 and 4
  • Section Three:  This is the tricky section.  In this section we compensate for the odd-numbered setting by using three rows instead of two.  This way we can avoid setting-in the outer triangles.

  • First, sew two rows of 7 candy squares then add a triangle section just as before for sections 2 and 4.  Then sew another unit comprised of two candy squares and one triangle as shown on the right-hand side of the photo.  Save this piece
  • Sew a strip of 9 candy squares together, then add  it  to the unit comprised of two rows of 7 candy squares.  This row will span the full length of all 7 candy squares and the triangle.

  • To complete this center unit, add the triangle with the two candy squares to this section.
  • Sew the outside corner  units.  They are comprised of two candy squares, two triangle units and topped with the mini-triangle unit.  Sew four, one for each corner.

  • Sew together the center patchwork sections.  I think it looks good without the corner pieces as well!
  •  Add the four outer corners.

  • Add the four outer 3 1/2 inch borders.  Trim away any excess fabric to square the quilt top.
  • Quilt as desired!

And…just because it’s one week until Christmas, here is what it would look like if made from scraps of holiday fabric.

One table runner measuring 16 inches by 30 inches.


Shannon Mower
{www.moderntraditionquilts.blogspot.com}