Artist On-the-Go Tote


Emily here today from Em’s Scrapbag for a perfect staycation project!

4 fat quarters (I used Simply Style by V and Co.)
4 grommets
Grommet tool

From on fat quarter cut a 15 1/2″ x 20″ rectangle for cover
From another fat quarter cut a 15 1/2″ x 20″ rectangle for lining
From third fat quarter cut 2- 12 1/2″ x 9″ for pockets
From fourth fat quarter cut 2- 3 1/2″ x 12″ rectangles for crayon holders and 2- 3″ x 15″ strips for handles

On each of the pockets fold the top edge down 1/4″ twice press and stitch in place.
On each of the crayon holders fold the short ends in 1/4″ and press.
Fold down the top edge of each of your crayon holders down twice making sure that the ends stay pressed in.
Run a gathering stitch along the top and bottom of your crayon holders.
Center an 8″ ruler 2″ from the bottom of one of your pockets.  Draw an 8″ line along the top of your ruler.
Gather the unfinished edge of your crayon holder so that it fits in the 8″ marked space.  Placing right sides together pin along the line you drew and stitch in place.
Use your 8″ ruler to make marks about 2 1/4″ up from where you sewed the crayon holder on.  Bring up the crayon holder up.  Gather the finished side so it fits between the marks you made and stitch the sides in place.
Divide your crayon holder into 12 equal spaces.  Just over 5/8″ and mark.  
Sew on each of these marks through the crayon holder.  Back stitching to reinforce.
Measure 2″ from the top of your first crayon holder.  Mark your 8″ line and repeat process with second crayon holder.
On your 15 1/2″ x 20″ lining make a 12 1/2″” long line 9″ from the left side.  Place the pocket with the crayon holders right side together along the line you drew so that the 9″ is not covered by the pocket and sew 1/4″ seam.  Flip and press so that the edges of your pocket line up with the edge of your lining.
Measure 9″ from the right side and repeat process with the remaining pocket.
Place the cover over your lining piece right sides together, pin.  Starting at the bottom sew around the edge leaving an opening to turn right side out.
Press to make crisp edge around where you have sewn and to finish edge on opening. 
 Top stitch in place.
Place a ruler 1/2″ down from top edge.  Measure 3 1/4″ and 6 1/4″ from side edge place grommets here.  Following the directions with your grommet tool apply grommets.  Repeat on other side.
Fold the short ends of each handle in 1/4″.
Fold in half along the long side.
Open up and fold bottom edge into the center fold.  Press
Fold the top edge into the center fold.  Press.

insert photo

Fold in half and top stitch in place.
Place handles through grommets so ends show on cover.  
Tie a knot in each end.
Place a 24 pack of crayons in the crayon holders and a sketch pad in the other pocket.  Place the cardboard from a old sketch pad in the pocket behind the crayons to give it stability.

One artist on-the-go tote

Baby Life Quilt

hey there, Vanessa from V and Co. here.
i’ve had this quilt bouncing around in my head for quite some time. so when i saw the “make life” line by sweetwater, i instantly knew that this quilt needed to be made out of this line.
it seems like everywhere i turn someone is announcing that they are pregnant or that they just found out what they are having. with just one layer cake i was able to make two completely different color scheme quilts, and i still have some left that i’m working with (another tutorial in the works with the leftovers!)

shall we get started?

1 make life layer cake.
for each quilt:
1 1/4 yards of background fabric (shown are:5424 20 Apple and 5424 24 Earth )
1 1/2 yards fabric for back (used but now shown: 5421 25 Ocean, and 5421 22 Apple
1/2 yard of fabric for binding (5424 19 Ocean and 5424 11 Apple)
pattern for words (get pdf here)
heat and bond

cut your background fabric to measure 38 by 36 inches.
you will need to print out the letters pdf file. and gather up a few squares you would like to use as your letters. i chose to use the solid color squares but you can use whichever you would like.
next i traced onto my heat and bond the letters that i needed.

cut out your letters but leaving a little paper around each letter. (it makes for cutting the letter out easier i think)
iron onto the wrong side of your fabric. (make sure you utilize your fabric and try to use as little fabric as possible by starting in the corner.)

cut out your letters.
(with paper still on the back) see where you would like to place your words. make sure they are straight by using a ruler.
i measured 3 1/2 inches from the bottom and left side of my fabric as the place where i wanted my last word to be.
i then placed my words up from there.
take off the paper from the back and when you have the placement of where you want the letters, iron them down onto your fabric.
**to secure your letters either zig zag or blanket stitch around your letters. when i do this i like to use clear thread.
(i didn’t on these quilts knowing that these were just going to be “for show” quilts)
i then took the rest of my squares. i picked out the ones i wanted to be in my border.
cut out strips with widths of 1 1/2 inches. i did make them different lengths because i wanted a scrappy look.

i then sewed my strips together so they measured 1 1/2 by 38 inches.

and then sewed them to the left and right of my main panel.
the top and bottom scrappy border should measure 1 1/2 by 38

next you are going to cut out two strips of your remaining background fabric to 2 by 40 inches.
this will be your left and right outer border.
your top and bottom border will measure 2 by 41 inches

sew them on to the top and bottom.
your finished quilt top will measure 40 by 41 inches.
when you are ready to bind your quilt, i have a binding tutorial on my blog: check it out here

two quilts with the capability of making a few more…or wait and see what i do with the rest of it. tutorial coming soon to my blog.
now your baby, or your friend’s baby can have a totally cute mod baby quilt and the color combos are endless with this line!

thanks! and can’t wait to show you what i do with the rest of scraps!
tutorial and pictures brought to you by V and Co.

Garden Fresh Fabric Tomatoes

it all started when my friends were talking about making salsa. that’s when i decided to make my own harvest of tomatoes (since i didn’t plant any in my garden this year).

i’ve made a bigger version to make pumpkins check out my blog for instructions.

one layer cake of simple abundance
(and one charm pack of simple abundance optional)

buttons, hot glue gun

first you will need to make a circle. you can use the template (to be found at the end of the instructions) or you can use a bowl with the width of 8 inches.
draw a circle with a fabric marker or a pencil
cut out your circle.
i wanted red, yellow, and green tomatoes (um hello, fried green tomatoes?!) so i picked out a few of each color.
you are going to to a running stitch around your whole circle.
once you have done a running stitch around the whole circle gently pull on your string’s end.
and do so till your circle is almost closed up. make sure you leave enough of an opening so that you can do the next step.
stuff your tomato, i like “cluster stuff” (i got mine at walmart)
gently pull your thread to shut the tomato base. and tie a knot.
now this is optional.
if you want different tomato tops (the leaves) then get yourself a charm pack.

take out your four green squares.

if you do not have a charm pack make sure you pull aside one green layer cake block. and cut in four.
fold in half your charm square. and using the template (make sure it downloads to the right size. template can be found on the same page as the tomato circle at the end of these instructions.)
trace two tomato tops. side by side.
with your sewing machine (while your square is still folded in half) sew on top of your traced lines of the leaves.
cut out your leaf and turn around. the marking should be on the bottom so that you can not see your marker or pencil line.
now if you want the easy way out.
get your hot glue gun and glue the top on.
this is an option.
no one will think any less of you trust me, because it still looks cute.
or if you want the extra steps, get yourself a button and green thread to attach your top on the tomato.
start by pulling the needle through the top all the way through the tomato.
place your button on the bottom and sew up through your tomato.
and gently pull on your thread. this will kind of squish your tomato in the middle.
do this a few times to secure it nicely.
to finish your sewing the top, knot under the leaf so that you don’t see your knot.
to secure it even better, i put a few dabs of hot glue under the leaves.
and now you have a super cute tomato.
one layer cake will make a few tomatoes, but make sure you leave out one green square at least to make 8 leaves.

pdf file download for tomato and top
(make sure you enlarge it to 100%)

instructions and pictures by Vanessa of V and Co.
hope you liked em!

Fabric Strawberries

these summer strawberries can be enjoyed all year long…perfect in a play kitchen set or to be given as gifts to the crafters in your life as a perfect little pincushion.

*one “crazy 8” by sandy gervais turnover
*filling (i used crushed clam shells, but you can use sand or crushed walnut shells or just polyfil fulff if you like)
*thread (mettler red, and green)
*needle (regular sewing size)
*pinking shears

*hot glue gun

take the reds, pinks, and greens out of the pack.

the reds and pinks will be what we will be working with first.

on the wrong side of the fabric measure from middle “point” 4 inches and make a marking.

again from the middle “ponit” measure 4 inches up and make a mark on either side of your first mark in the middle. (you can make as little or as many marks, this is just a guideline to make your “arch”)

using your marks on the fabric make an “arch” by connecting the dots if you will.

cut out your arch

fold down like so, to match up your sides.

sew down (1/4 in seam allowance) your open side, make sure you back stitch at the top.

this is what you should have now.

from the bottom point, measure up 1 inch.

draw a line where your 1 inch mark is.

sew across your one inch line (make sure you back stitch)

turn inside out. and you should have the base of your strawberry now.

fill up your strawberry base with filling. (i used crushed clam shells because i wanted the option to maybe use these as pincushions) i filled mine up pretty full because i wanted a really tight and full strawberry. i left approx 1/2 inch off the top unfilled.

now with your red mettler thread you are going to seal off the top of your strawberry.

sew the top shut like so. sew around the whole strawberry top. and gently pull shut.

this is what your should end up having.

this is the template for your strawberry top.

cut it out.
fold your green triangle in half wrong sides together.and trace your template of the top onto the right side of your fabricwith your green mettler thread in your sewing machine… using your drawn on strawberry top as a guideline, sew on top of your lines. make sure you back stitch
cut out with pinking shears just outside your sewn strawberry top.

with a hot glue gun you are going to put hot glue on your strawberry top

i made sure i put the hot glue on the side that i drew on so that my drawing would not show in the final product.
here’s my lovely finished strawberry.

a plateful of lovely fabric play strawberries (approx 12 from this particular line):

another idea for these strawberries would be making them into lovely little gifts for the crafters in your life:

as sweet little pincushions.

Baby Blanket

 the soft colors of the aviary line is a perfect line for a timeless baby girl quilt.

one aviary honey bun find them in my etsy store.
1 yard of cream cut into 5 strips of 5 1/2 inch strips (you’ll have a little left over)
a little less than 1/2 yard of fabric for binding
2 yards of back fabric

first you’ll want to separate your colors. you’ll want 8 strips for each block (i used 2 colors of each color for each block)once you have your 8 strips you are going to sew your strips together 2 at a timepress the seams. once you have two of them together sew 4 together and so will end up with all 8 strips sewn together.cut off the excess so you have a nice clean linenext you are going to cut your strips to 8 1/2 inches in length (which should be your width as well)once you have all your blocks cut out, you want to place your stripped blocks horizontal and perpendiculari wanted a square quilt so i laid out 5 squares by 5 squares.

sew your blocks together.

remember the cream fabric that were cut into 5 (5 1/2 in) strips? well take two of them and trim them to 40 1/2 inchessew them to left and right side of your blocks.then you will sew the last three 5 1/2 inch strips together (end to end)to make one long strip. (these will make your top and bottom borders.)

cut two strips of 50 1/2 inches. (you will have a little left over )cut your back fabric to fit the finished front.
you are now ready to quilt your quilt.
my quilt was quilted by the talented Felicia of The Quilting Bee.
She knows that my machine quilting looks like scrambled eggs gone bad…
thanks Felicia for saving my butt on this one and making the quilt that much cuter with your skills! once all that is done you are ready to bind your quilt.
i have step by step instructions on my blog here

one super cute quilt. And when washed, shrunk and crinkled up mine came out to measure approx 47″ x 47″
instructions and pictures by Vanessa of V and Co

Fabric Easter basket

This cute basket is all about spring and would be so cute for an egg hunt or just for display!

1 honey bun of your choice (featured is “Swanky” but another cute softer option would be aviary by 3 sisters)
*1 package of piping (6yards) I used Wrights 12/32″ cotton filler cord

*and 39 inches of smaller piping (for handle) I used Writes 6/32″ cotton filler cord (comes in a package of 10 yards)
*my needle was a regular ‘ol needle (but make sure you have a THIMBLE, it’s murder on the finger without!)
*and I used “Mettler” cotton silk finished thread (it’s sturdy) if you don’t that have just use quilting thread or sturdy thread.

when you unravel your honey bun separate colors.

start by sewing together 4 strips alternating colors randomly (I cut mine in half ,at the fold, because I wanted a more scrappy look but you can keep your strips full length).
once you have 4 strips together fold in half and sew onto your thick piping.i then started to ravel around my piping with the fabric. once I got close to the end of my strips, I sewed 4 more strips onto the existing end (4 seemed to be the magic number. Any more on there and it became a tangled mess, and less and you were having to stop and sew too quickly in between)keep going through the full 6 yards of piping that comes in the package.when you get to your end of the piping, sew just like you did when you started through the piping and the fabric. this will not let the fabric unravel.start your coil and hand sew together from the center out by sewing the outer coil to the inner coil when you get to the 7th row out you will then start to “stack” your coil.just like when it was laying flat but now you sew it together from the top coil to the “stacked on top of” coilhere’s the best angle I could get of the stacked coil with the needle going in on the top and out of the “stacked on top of” coil do this for the whole basket till you get close to the end. where your “stacking” started (on the bottom),you will want to end your basket top. this way it won’t be lopsided (counting from the bottom up i have 8 rows all around).make sure you sew right before you are going to cut on the piping so the fabric wont unravel. cut off extra (should be a small tail NOT enough to go around one more time). and then tuck in a little so the raw end doesn’t show from the top. you now have the base of your basket.
now on to the handle:just how you started your basket you are going to start your handle. I used the smaller piping for this and i cut it to 39 inches. fold fabric in half length wise and sew your fabric onto your piping at the end of the piping.
ravel around the 39 incheswhen done raveling, sew the end so it doesn’t unravel. fold your 39 inches of piping three even ways like are going to sew through all three piping and sew the whole thing togetheryou will end up with this to attach your handle start from the inside and back through the outside. do this quite a few times to make the handle super sturdy. do the same to the other side of the handle. instructions by Vanessa from V and Co.

one super cute springy Easter basket. (with base of aprox 6 1/2 inches in width)
(if you are interested in buying honey buns to make this project in Aviary by three sisters, visit her etsy store)

Braided Rag Rug

please click here for kits available to make this rag rug

1 honey bun of your choice (featured is “sweet” by urban chiks) and

4 yards of white fabric

cut your 4 yards of white fabric to 1 1/2 inch widths (yup ALL of it)

once it’s all cut up get three strips of fabric and sew them stacked on top of each other (i wanted the middle of my rug to be all white)

safety pin your three sewn strips anywhere you can be comfy (you are going to be there for a while! i did mine attached to my runner on my dining room table) this is the start of your braid.
start braiding your white fabric
****you need to make sure your braiding is SUPER LOOSE. do not make your braids tight at all. if they are tight they will make your rag rug curl up when you try to sew it together.******
once you get close to the end of your braid you are going to fold over the end of your strip and snip with your scissors a slit.

like so, and then you will do the same to the next strip that will be the following strip to lengthen your braid (do this to each of the three strips)

you will take the next strip and place it on top of the braided strip

grab the end of your new strip (the end without the slit) and pull through both slits (from behind)

this will adjoin your strips and you will be able to continue your braid
this is what it should look like, now keep braiding.

once you get close to the end of your braid you are going to do the same as you did before and make a slit at the ends of your braided strips and at the beginning of your next strips this time wanted to add color so i took one strip of the honey bun and two of the white strips i cut out.

it should now look like this. this will be what you do through out the whole process of braiding your rug. one color in the middle and two whites on the outside.

as you continue to braid your braid will get too long so unhook your safety pin and re-pin it closer to your end.

this is how it should look as you continue to braid. make sure your fabric “folds” with the right side out and continue to braid it loosely

once you have completely braided ALL your strips together. you are going to sew you braid “shut” this tail will be tucked at the very end and you wont see it.
now that you have a whole mess of a braid going on…we are off to hand sew it together.
get some sturdy thread (i recommend one you use for upholstery) and a needle and you are going to start off by coiling your start of the long braid (the whites)
start by hand stitching your coil center like so. (start in the very center of your coil first and work your way out)
make sure once you get your center started and going…place your coil on a flat surface. this will ensure that your rug lays flat with each coil.
also make sure you do not overlay the braids at all. they need to be laying flat and to be sewn side by side to each other.
you are going to continue to hand stitch your braids together, do this for the whole rug. what you are sewing is your back, when you are done, the stitches should be fairly hidden from the top. (the other side)

when you get to your end, make sure you tuck and stitch the end of your braid so that the tail is on the bottom of your rug and hidden when you turn it over. (snip the extra part of your tail if you like)
****to make your rug a little sturdier, i recommend adding a felt backing to your rug.
first start off with placing your rug on top of your large piece of felt, (you can buy it at walmart for pretty cheap off the bolt you will need aprox 1 1/2 yards (just in case so you can piece a little if needed)) and cutting out the same size as your finished rug.
next hand sew around your rug on top of the felt.
and then at random places adhere your rug in the middle (and all over) by doing big stitches through your coils.
look what you made! isn’t it pretty? and it will look so great ANYWHERE! (make some smaller circles to make bar stool seat covers!)

1 rag rug with width of 32 inches
if you’d like to purchase a kit to make this rag rug please visit this site
to clean your rag rug properly we advise you to wash your rug and lay flat to air dry
instructions by vanessa from V and Co.