1. Fold the fat quarter in half along the length. Cut at the fold.
2. Cut 15 inches from the width.
3. Fold the layer cake square into half along the width. Cut on fold. Now cut a small arc at the bottom.
This is how the pieces will fit later on. Don’t sew anything yet. First we need to add ruffles to front layers.
4. Set your machine tension to the highest, stitch length to the longest, and machine speed to the fastest. Take the jelly roll strips you would like to make ruffles from and sew along one of the long edges. This machine setting results in nice even ruffles.
5. Now sew the ruffle along the curved sides of the layer cake. Right sides together. Do the same for the other half.
6. Fold the ruffle hems twice near the top of main fabric. This will allow for hemming later on. Make sure you fold as little as possible. Hand-baste or pin if needed. Sew both parts over the main fabric joining at the top.
7. Now cover the whole thing with the other half of main fabric. With the right side touching the right side of front layers. Sew along the sides leaving about 2 inches at the bottom.
Making the shoulder straps:
8. We will make the shoulder straps from leftover fat quarter fabric. Fold the remaining fabric into half along the width.
9. Cut at the fold, you will get two strips – about 3 inches wide.
10. Fold each of these in half and sew along one smaller and one longer (raw) side. Turn right side out and iron.
Next we will make the chest band. This is the piece that will join shoulder straps to the main body. This will also be used as elastic casing at the back, so the baby has lots of room to grow.
11. Now sandwich these shoulder straps between two jelly roll strips (right sides together) about 2.5 inches apart from each other. Make sure the raw end of straps lines up with the raw edges of jelly roll strips. Sew a seam catching both the strips and shoulder straps.
12. Turn out.
13. Now position the band with shoulder straps such that the shoulder straps are centered at the front of main body of romper. Align the raw edge of the band with the raw edge of main body and sew a seam along the raw edge.
14. When you approach the end, determine how much more of the band you would need, add about an inch of sewing margin and snip off the rest. Now sew both ends of the band (right sides together), and sew the rest of the band to the romper body.
15. Now fold the other raw end of the band at the wrong side of the main fabric. Mark a crease so the folded portion of the raw edge goes just a little over the seam joining band and main body. This will ensure that when we sew a seam in the front, it will catch this fold in the back. Iron in place if needed.
16. Now sew a seam as close to the band as possible on the right side but only on the back of the romper.
17. Use the band as an elastic casing. Insert an elastic in this back band. Secure the elastic by sewing at both ends. Now finish the rest of the bend by sewing as close to the band as possible in the front side as well.
18. Sew on 2 small buttons at the back of the band, about 2 inches apart in the center.
Determine how long you want your shoulder straps to be and make a buttonhole in each of the strap.
I made two buttonholes in each strap so that the straps can be adjusted to be longer if needed. Moda produces very high quality fabrics that will last a long time; so one of my goals while designing a garment is also to maximize the usage of garment and to accommodate fast growing babies for a longer time. In this garment, the elastic at the back and the adjustable buttonholes in the shoulder straps are the design elements that achieve this goal.
Adding the ruffle at the bottom:
19. Ruffle two jelly roll strips the way you did for the front layers.
20. Now sew those ruffles to the hemline by lining up the ruffled edge with the raw hem ( right sides together). Do it separately for back and front.
21. Now serge the raw edges of ruffles and fold. If you don’t have a serger, just fold the edges twice and hem.
At this step , you also need to make sure that all the layers are equal at the sides. The two front panels will likely come out longer than the front and back pieces because the layer cake is longer than half of the fat quarter. If that’s the case, fold the ruffles on front panels a little more than the ruffles on the main fabric.
22. After hemming all the ruffles, sew the sides until you reach the bottom (remember we left a little un-sewn earlier).
One butterfly romper. Now put it on your little butterfly and see her flutter with joy!