Positively Perfect Nap Quilt


Hello all! I’m April Rosenthal from Prairie Grass Patterns, here with my second recipe for the Moda Bake Shop. I’m so excited to show this to you!

I’ve wanted to make a quilt just for me for quite a while. When I saw Hometown, I knew it was time. This quilt goes together quick and easy, and is pretty darn cute to boot! This Positively Perfect Nap Quilt finishes up at 54″ x 66″, which is just perfect for a lap quilt or quick snooze. Trust me 😉

1 Jelly Roll of Hometown
1 5/8 yard Hometown cream (546812) for background
5/8 yards Hometown red (546811) for inner border (not shown)
1 yard grey floral (546725) for outer border
3 1/2 yards (546012) for backing
1/2 yard (546124) for binding
62″ x 74″ batting

Choose 16 strips from your jelly roll. I chose to use the strips that didn’t have a white background, for the most contrast.

Leaving each strip folded, trim off the selvedge edge.

From each folded strip, cut (3) 2½” squares (total 6) and (1) 6½” x 2½” (total 2) rectangles. This should make a total of (96) squares, and (32) rectangles. Set aside remainder of strips. You can add these to your scrap bin, or piece them into your backing like I did.

From the cream background fabric, cut (22) 2½” width of fabric strips.

Subcut strips into (192) 2½” x 2½” squares and (64) 6½” x 2½” rectangles.

Note: When you’re using the Hometown cream, be sure you’re using the “right side” of the fabric. Sometimes it’s hard to tell which side is which, but there is a difference. The “wrong side” of the fabric is paler.

Using the pieces you’ve cut, make (32) Dot blocks and (31) Plus blocks.

To make one “dot” block, sew one cream background square to each side of a colored square:

Press seams toward the middle.

Sew one cream background rectangle to the top and bottom. Press seams away from the center.

To make one “plus” block, make two matching “dot” units (colored square in the middle, cream squares on the sides) as described above. Sew them to the top and bottom of a matching rectangle. Press toward the middle rectangle.

Arrange blocks in an alternating pattern, starting with a “dot” block in the top left corner. Place 7 blocks across and 9 blocks down.

Sew together blocks into rows, nesting seams and pressing toward “dot” blocks.

Pin and stitch rows together, nesting seams. I pressed seams toward the “plus” blocks, popping the stitch at each intersection. You can also simply press to one side along the entire row.

Press the entire top.

Cut (6) 2½” x WOF strips of Hometown red for the inner border. Piece the strips as needed, and attach using your preferred border method. My top and bottom inner borders measured 42″, and my left and right borders measured 57″. Press toward border.

Cut (7) 4½” x Width of Fabric strips of grey floral for the outer border. Piece the strips as needed, and attach.  Press toward outer border.

Press, baste, and quilt as desired.

I used my leftover strip pieces in my backing as shown.

I chose to quilt straight lines across and down the quilt in varying distances.

Bind with yellow floral print. 

One Positively Perfect Nap Quilt. Enjoy your next nap!
A limited number of kits are available in my shop. Be sure to hop over and grab one before they’re gone!

P.S. Visit my blog for a fun, free (darling!) Positively Perfect Pillow pattern using leftovers from this quilt. See you soon!

Mwa!

April Rosenthal
{aprilrosenthal.com}

Home Sweet Home


Hi all – it’s Jera from Quilting in the Rain bringing you this super fast Home Sweet Home tutorial (thank you Anna from Switzerland for the quilt name)! I used the Hometown collection by Sweetwater. If you’re familiar with my tutorials, you know that I love simple and quick quilts that require minimal fussy measurements. Well, this is one of them because this quilt almost requires no measuring! That’s the beauty of Moda pre-cuts! 🙂 Enjoy!

P.S. check out my new site at www.QuiltingInTheRain.com for a chance to win FREE Moda pre-cut fabric! Simply click on the Fabric Giveaway link on the homepage.

  • 2 charm packs (or 81 pre-cut 5″ squares)
  • 10 neutral colored jelly roll strips (or 3/4 yard neutral colored fabric; from this, cut ten 2.5″ x 42/44″).
  • 5/8 yards binding fabric
  • 3 yards backing fabric

Step 1 – Choose 9 charm squares (or pre-cut 5 inch squares) and make a 9 patch block by sewing 3 rows together with 3 blocks per row.
Step 2 – Using a rotary cutter and ruler, cut 2 diagonal lines from corner to corner as shown below.Step 3 – Repeat steps 1 and 2 to make a total of 3 nine patch blocks. Cut diagonal lines form corner to corner for all 3 blocks. This will give you a total of 12 triangle pieces.
Step 4 – Here’s the fun part! Rearrange all 12 pieces to your liking.
Step 5 – Sew the rearranged pieces back together as shown below. This will give you a block that measures roughly 13.3″ x 13.3″. Repeat until you have a total of 9 finished blocks.

Step 6 – Take three jelly roll strips (or three 2.5″ x 42/44″ long strips), and then sub-cut each trip into three 2.5″ x 13.5″ strips. This will give you a total of six 2.5″ x 13.5″ strips. With right sides facing together, sew a strip to the side of a finished block, press flat with an iron and then trim the excess ends (since your finished block measures 13.3 inches, this is simpler then trying to measure 13.3 inch long strips).
Sew the remaining strips to create sashing between the blocks that looks like this:

Step 7 – Use two more jelly roll strips (or two 2.5″ x 42/44″ strips) for the middle sashing. with right sides facing together, sew the first row of blocks to the sashing, then press flat with an iron. Repeat until all three rows of blocks are connected by the two sashing strips. Trim the excess ends.

Step 8 – Use two more jelly roll strips (or two 2.5″ x 42/44″ strips) for the top and bottom borders. After sewing them on, trim the excess ends. Lastly, sew the left and right side borders on. Each side will measure roughly 47″ long, so you will need to sew some jelly roll strips together to get two 2.5″ x 47″ long strips. I simply sewed three jelly roll strips together (or three 2.5″ x 42/44″ strips) from end to end and then cut that in half. After sewing them onto the sides of the quilt top, trim the excess fabric.

That’s all there is to it! Like I said, it’s a non-fussy-cut quilt and fast to piece together. Here’s a picture of my quilting buddy, Bodie, that I thought I’d sneak in. He was ready for a walk in this photo. 🙂


Thanks for checking out my tutorial! Don’t forget to check out QuiltingInTheRain.com for a chance to win some free Moda pre-cut fabric! Simply click the Fabric Giveaway link on the homepage. Happy Quilting!


One fabulous 47″ x 47″ quilt!

Jera Brandvig
{QuiltingInTheRain.com}

About Town {Hometown} Ruffle Scarf


Hello! My name is Kimberly from My Brown Bag Studio and I’m so excited to be here! This is my first time in the Bake Shop kitchen and I really hope you enjoy this recipe for my About Town {Hometown} Ruffle Scarf! It makes me think of all my blogging friends from near and far… and if you make a scarf of your own, please be sure to let me know!

1 Hometown Jelly Roll
2 packages twill tape to coordinate (mine were ‘camel’ color)
Basic sewing/quilting supplies


1. Unroll your Jelly Roll, iron all the strips out, and gasp in delight as you discover your hometown in Hometown. I found mine {Abbotsford} right between Calgary and Hamburg.

2. Divide strips into four-color combinations – I did yellow/cream, blue, gray, and red. You’ll need 40 strips in total, divided into sets of 10.

3. Reserve 1 strip from each color grouping for ruffle pieces. I set aside 4 solid color strips in cream, blue, grey, and red.

4. Cut off the selvedge edge and cut strips to 37″. I did this in stacks of 5 strips to save time.

5. Arrange 9 strips per colorway the way you like them and sew each set together lengthwise with 1/4″ seam allowance. Press your seams open.

You’ll have 4 striped sections when you’re finished, and a coordinating strip set aside.

6. Create ruffles: I make my ruffles by hand. Stitch a long running stitch down the centre length of your jelly roll strip leaving a tail of thread on either end. Yes, I’m a lefty!

Pin your strip 2″ up from the end of your scarf section. Pin pin pin! Pin both ends in place the same way.

Gently pull the thread tails from either end to create your ruffle. Adjust to your liking and pin all along to hold it in place. Pin pin pin!

Machine stitch from one end to the other, down the centre of your ruffle. Remove your pins as you go… oops, I forgot!

Centre the twill tape on your ruffle and machine stitch along each side of its length.

Repeat for other 3 scarf sections.

7. Sew 2 of your color sets together end-to-end (not the ends with ruffles). Repeat for the other 2 sets. Press seams open. I paired the yellow and gray, and the blue and red together.

8. With right sides together, match the centre seams and twill tape sections and pin well.

9. Sew all the way around, leaving a 6″ opening near the centre seam to turn right side out – as shown by the purple pins.

10. Carefully snip the tips of the 4 corners off to reduce bulk, being careful not to snip into your stitches.

11. Turn scarf right side out through opening and press well. See how great it looks from the side?

12. Slip stitch opening closed by hand.

13. Put on your new scarf and enjoy a day in your hometown… or even in your own backyard… just enjoy!

I really love my Hometown scarf and with the cooler weather upon us, I think I’ll get a lot of use out of it! It would even be a fantastic gift for a friend or family member who lives across the miles… make sure both hometowns are visible and you’ll feel close despite the distance!

Feel free to stop by My Brown Bag Studio anytime for a visit… I’ll be there, and the coffee will be on!

Kimberly Friesen

Picket Fences Crib Quilt

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Hello again! I’m Angela and I blog over at Cut to Pieces. I am very excited about this baby crib quilt. I had the pleasure of working with Sweetwater’s Hometown fabric and I couldn’t be more in love with it. There is something about this collection that just begs you to snuggle with it. After making this quilt, I want to make Pajama pants in almost every fabric. 😉

Picket Fences is a crib quilt that is a perfect welcome home gift for the newest little one in your life. You can have fun trying to find your own Hometown among the many, many names on the fabric. I found mine! The canvas backing makes for a durable floor play mat, but this also makes a beautiful wall hanging. Either way, this quilt will be well loved by all.

• 3 Charm Packs of Sweetwater’s Hometown
• 1 Jelly Roll of Bella White Solids
• 1/2 yard of fabric for the binding
• 2 yards of Hometown canvas grey dot for the backing
• 2 yards of Hometown canvas town print for the backing

Latest Project

Charm Packs and a Jelly Roll make quick work of piecing this quilt top. The quilt is pieced in vertical columns made up of charms and/or jelly roll strips. Then each vertical row is sewn together to complete the top. A small amount of paper piecing is used to create the tips of the picket fence (but don’t worry if you don’t do paper piecing! You can use the patterns in the Printer Friendly version as templates).

Cutting:

White Bella Solid:

Select (11) strips from the White Jelly Roll.

Cut (8) strips 22.5″ in length for 2.5″ x 22.5″ pieces.  Use the remaining part of the strip for the 8 paper pieced fence tips.  There is plenty for this!

picket fences

Cut (3) strips into (9) sets of (2) 2.5″ x 5″ pieces. You need 18 pieces total and you can get 8 pieces per strip.

picket fences

Hometown Charm Packs

I chose to remove the solid cream fabrics from the charm packs as I felt that there would not be enough contrast between the cream and the white “fence”.

• Select (8) charms to be used with the paper pieced tips.  Cut each charm in half to create (2) 2.5″ x 5″ pieces.  Keep the two halves together for use on the same fence tip.

• Select between (16) and (32) charms to cut in half to create pieces  2.5″ x 5″.  You need (32) half charms all together, but you may or may not want to repeat which ones you have of this size.  Thus you can either choose (16) pieces or up to (32) pieces to cut in half.

picket fences

• Select (8) charms for the “post” rows.  Cut each charm in half and then cut (8) of those into 2.75″ x 2.5″ pieces.

 • Select (72) charms to be used throughout the background as well.

Piecing

The first thing you get to do is play with all the pretty fabrics in the charm packs!  You will need to lay out your charm squares, half charm squares and perhaps even some of your “fence” pieces to spread out the colors and patterns evenly throughout the background.  There are nine “rail” rows (which are 5″ wide)  and eight “post” rows (which are only 2.5″ wide).

You can use this picture as a visual for where you are headed.

Picket Fences

Each “post” row is only 2.5″ wide and uses half charms, jelly roll strips, and the paper pieced tip. From top to bottom, there are 3 half charms, followed by a “quarter” charm, then the paper pieced tip and the 22.5″ long fence post.

picket fence post
Each “rail” row is made up of 5 charms followed by a “rail”, then two more charms, another “rail” and ends with a single charm at the bottom.
picket fence rail
As you can see here, I just put my fabric out all over the floor and tried to evenly distribute the colors and fabrics.  You will be using both of your full sized charms (for the rail rows) and your half charms (for the post rows).
picket fences

Things can get confusing very quickly, so I find it helpful to label each row.  Use whatever system works best for you, but I just grab some generic plain labels and stick them on. (A little tip: don’t put the labels where they could get caught in the seam allowance!  This way you can keep the labels on while you sew the pieces together and remove them when you need to.)

picket fences

I start to partially construct my rows by sewing together each very simple rail column.  I press all the seams in one direction from the bottom to the top of the row.

picket fences

Sewing the Fence Tips

Use the templates in the Printer Friendly Version at the bottom of the post and make 8 copies of the fence post tips for paper piecing.  This is a very simple little paper pieced pattern. If you are not familiar with paper piecing, you can also use the print out the pattern as a template guide.  You can make your own templates simply by cutting out each shape and then add a 1/4″ seam allowance on all sides of pieces 1, 2, and 3.   Piece 1 is the fence itself and should the white solid.  Pieces 2 and 3 are two halves of a charm as chosen before.  And piece 4 is a “quarter” charm (or more accurately 2.75″ x 2.5″).

picket fences

Use the pattern to sew the white fabric to the paper and surround it on either side with the two matching half charms.

picket fences

Sew the upper half of the post row to the paper pieced fence tip, connecting the fence tip to the background fabric.  Remove the paper.

picket fences

Here is a view of the upper half of the “post” row from the front.

picket fences

Sew each upper “post” row to one of the 22.5″ long pieces of the white solid.  The rows may look a little odd at first because of the extra fabric on either side of the fence tip.  But you want this!  That is your seam allowance for when you sew a “post” row to a “rail” row.

picket fences

Putting your Quilt Top Together

Begin to sew each of your “post” and “rail” vertical rows together in order to create your quilt top.  Pin together at each matching seam and as needed to help keep your fabrics together.

picket fences

Sew row 1 (a rail row) to row 2 (a post row) and press the seam allowance toward row 2.  Then sew these two rows to row 3 and so on.

picket fences

Your quilt top will begin to come together.  Soon you will be able to see a fence, piece by piece.

Picket Fences

More rows sewn together.

Picket Fences

A whole fence, built of rail rows and post rows!

Picket Fences

The Backing

The backing of a quilt is always a bit larger than the quilt top to allow for some shifting during the quilting process.  This back is no exception.

From the two yard lengths of canvas, cut an 18″ width of the grey polka dot and a 33″ width of the town print.

picket fences

Using some of the left over fabric from the jelly rolls and a single charm, create a strip to go between the two canvas prints.  Cut the charm into fourths and use three of the pieces spread evenly between lengths of white solid.  Then sew this pieced strip in between the two canvas prints, creating one backing.

picket fences

Here you can see the backing in action!  That little quarter charm just pops off the back!

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Completing the Quilt:

Use your favorite basting method to baste together the backing, batting and quilt top. I chose to use a low loft cotton batting. Then quilt as desired. I echo quilted the fence posts with straight line quilting. Then I used free motion quilting to create a horizontal “wind” effect on the top half of the quilt and a vertical “grass” effect on the bottom half of the quilt.

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I bound my quilt using (5) 2 1/2″ wide strips sewn together on the bias end-to-end. I fold that in half all along the length and stitch to the edge of the quilt. Then I flip the folded edge to the back of the quilt and hand sew in place. Just a simple double fold binding method.

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One Crib Quilt sized 45″ x 60″.

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I hope you like this design! I’d love to see any versions you make of this quilt. You can share them on Flickr in my group Cut To Pieces and of course the Moda Bake Shop group.

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Angela Pingel

Road to Tennessee


Today I am going to show you a very easy, versatile project. This is a vintage pattern called “Road to Tennessee.”  I will be giving you alternate layout options and size options, depending on how many charm packs you have on hand.  I also have a sweet giveaway going on over at my blog (check below for the link).


4 charm packs
1 yard background fabric (I used the off white from Hometown)
1/2 yard binding
3 3/8 yards backing.

Because this pattern is so easy to adjust, I am including a chart of fabric requirements for as few as one charm pack or as many as 8.  Please note this tutorial is for the 4 charm pack option.  I will include alternate layout options at the end of the tutorial.

 

 

Cut 2″ squares from your background fabric.  For this size we will need 288 background squares (# of blocks x 2= background squares needed).

Draw a diagonal line on the wrong side of each 2″ square.

Place a 2″ square on opposite corners of each charm square.

Sew along the drawn lines.

Trim off all excess 1/4″ from the newly sewn lines.

Press open to reveal 1 finished block.  Repeat with all your charm squares.

This step is not necessary, but I separated my blocks into 2 piles…dark/busy and light/simple.  This was just to try to distribute color more evenly.

Sew your individual blocks into v shaped pairs.  I sewed my lighter colors on the left side and the darker colors on the right side.

Press toward the lighter color and when you flip the blocks together, the seams will nest.

Now sew your pairs into O shapes and press open.



Sew into rows. and sew rows together.


Baste your quilt sandwich




Approximate fabric requirements for backing: 3 3/8 YD.


Construct 2 strips the width of the fabric and length at least 60.5. Sew strips together to form horizontal seams in the backing.


Binding

Fabric required: 1/2 YD. Cut 6 strips and sew together into a continuous binding strip.  Attach to the front of your quilt by machine and secure using a ladder stitch on the backside of the quilt. 


I took my extra charms and added a few other Moda prints to show you some alternate layout options:

 Xquisite

Xs and O’s

Medallion

My buddy Andie from Andie Johnson Sews took pity on a computer challenged gal like me and did a mockup of this quilt in 3 Bella Solids:

Love that!

Photo courtesy of Chris Oliver

Here is another version I did in Modern Workshop by Oliver&S using 3 charm packs:

One super snuggly 54″ x 54″ quilt.   I hope you liked this tutorial.  If so, hop on over to my blog and see what else is goin’ on!  Right now I am giving an accuquilt GO! Baby and 3 dies to one lucky reader.

Special Thanks to Chris Oliver for braving the 110 degree Texas heat to take my header photo! 

Mary Lane Brown

Pillows Gone Wild


Hey there! It’s been a little while. If you don’t remember me, I’m Natalia from Piece N Quilt. I love to blog, sew, design and machine quilt. If you have a second, stop by my blog and say hi. 🙂

Today I’m sharing a tutorial for a few pillows. This tutorial actually started out as a tutorial for just one pillow but somehow things got a little carried away (hence the name, Pillows Gone Wild) and now I’m sharing 5 pillow tutorials in one!

1 Hometown Layer Cake
1/2 yard coordinating fabric for backing for each pillow
1 yard coordinating grey
1 yard coordinating ivory


I will be sharing instructions/tutorial for each of the 5 pillows.
First up.
Square in a square 18″ pillow.

Start by cutting your center square to 7 1/2″x 7 1/2″

Next cut four ivory strips,
2 strips 2″x10″
2 strips 2″x13″

Now take one layer cake square cut it down to 8 1/2″x8 1/2″ then cut it into quarters.

Lastly, cut two layer cake squares into halves.

Sewing it all together…
Begin by sewing the layer cake square that was cut into quarters onto the center square. For the best result, sew opposite sides then press, then sew the other opposite sides.

Next, sew the ivory strips onto the outside.
First the shorter strips.
Second the longer strips.

Now sew the two layer cakes that were cut in half onto the outside of the block.

Again for the best result, sew opposite sides first.
Square up the pillow to 18 1/2″ square.
Now prepare the backing and finish the pillow.

Click here for our free Zipper tutorial.
Click here for our free Pillow Form tutorial.

Next pillow.
X’s

Start by choosing 8 contrasting layer cake squares.

For each of the x’s cut one strip that is 10″x 3 1/4″

Also cut two 2 1/2″x2 1/2″ squares from each of the X prints and then cut into halves (ending up with 4 triangles from each print).

Sew the points onto the ends of the long strips.
You will have one long strip for each X.

For the sides of the X’s you will cut:
Two short X print strips that are 3 1/4″x4″

Sew one of your points to the end of each of those strips.
From the background print cut the four background prints into 6 1/2″x6 1/2″ squares and then cut those into quarters.

Now, sew those background pieces onto  the sides of the shorter X pieces.
You will need two of these for each X.

Sew those side strips onto the long center X strip.
You will have four X blocks like the one below.

Sew those 4 X’s together.

Now prepare the backing and finish the pillow.
Next up.
Angles
Begin by cutting
9 – 4 1/2″ squares.
Cut those in half diagonally.

Next from 9 different prints cut a 2 1/2″x10″ strip.
Sew a triangle onto one side of each of the nine strips.

Press the strip in half.

Cut as shown in the image below.

This will give you nice points on the 2 1/2″strip.

Now sew a triangle onto the other side of the block.

Repeat until you have 9 angled blocks.

Sew the blocks together side by side in three rows.

Now prepare the backing and finish the pillow.
Next up.
Squares and Knots
From your layer cake pick out 16 prints and grab 1/4 yard ivory.
From those prints cut 16 – 2 1/2″ squares, 12 – 2 1/2″ squares from the ivory, 5 strips and two strips.
Sew the squares together into four strip sets as shown in the image below.
Using the larger strips, sew those rows together into pillows.
I machine quilted the pillow top before putting it completely together.
Next, adding the knots.
Knots are a fun little element that can add a lot of detail to a simple pillow.
After pillow top is quilted Sew a 2″x6″ strip onto each corner as shown in the image below.
You will do the exact same thing to the prepared pillow back.
When you sew the back of the pillow to the front of the pillow instead of sewing straight across the corners, you will sew out and around each of the four knots.
When the pillow is turned right side out it will look like the image below.
After you have inserted the pillow form simply tie those tails in knots.

Last but not least.
Inside out.

This pillow will require yardage.
You will need 1/8 yard three different prints.
Cut the three outer prints into 2 1/2″xWOF strips and then cut the center print into a 2 3/4″xWOF strip.
Sew the strips together side by side.

Press.

Cut into four sections using a 45* angle.
Sew those four pieces together first into two large triangles and then into one large square.
I machine quilted the pillow before adding the backing.

Add the backing…
Keep the pillow inside out. Measure in about 2″ from each point and sew across each corner, as shown in the image below.

Turn the pillow right side out and you will end up with more of a boxy pillow.

It’s fun to see how many pillows you can make from one layer cake.
I actually made a couple from each of these patterns and it was all from just one layer cake!
Enjoy.

I did machine quilt each of the pillow tops before putting the pillows together.


Natalia Bonner
{Piece N Quilt}