Cabins in the Hills



Cabins in the Hills Quilt
Made from the range HIDEAWAY by Lauren and Jessi Jung.
By Julie Sebire of “Narioka” Australia.

I’m very pleased to bring you my third Bake Shop project, I think this one is my favourite so far.
You can also visit my blog narioka@blogspot.com

One Hideaway Jelly Roll
38 inches white setting fabric
30 inches red gingham print
35 inches green clock print
70 inches of wide quilt backing (more if you require wider for quilting)
18 inches fabric for binding



Unroll your Jelly Roll and take out the darkest red strips.
Cut 41, 2.5 inch squares from these three strips.
It’s traditional in a log cabin quilt to have a red fireplace in the corner or centre of your cabin.


From the remaining 37 strips cut from each one
One 8.5 inch strip
Two 6.5 inch strips
Two 4.5 inch srips
and one 2.5 inch square.

Pop these into little piles like I have above. The top pile is the leftovers.

This next step may seem a little repetitive but it was the best way of explaining the cutting and still getting a good mix of the various fabrics over the quilt.

Cut these next strips from the leftover sections. There will be a complete mix of all the fabrics.
Cut carefully, there will be very little fabric leftover at the end.
Four 8.5 inch strips
Eight 6.5 inch strips
Eight 4,5 inch strips
and four 2.5 inch squares.

Add these to your piles as you go.


Piecing.

To start making your cabin blocks.
Take a red 2.5 inch square and join to a coloured 2.5 inch square (as above).

Repeat this with all 2.5 inch squares.
Its easiest to chain piece all 41 blocks.



Take the two pieces you have just joined and add a 4.5 inch strip. (as above)
Repeat the same step with remaining pieces, chain piecing again.
Make sure you add the 4.5 inch strip to the same side on every cabin block.


Join the next 4.5 inch strip as shown above.
Repeat on all blocks.



Now join a 6.5 inch strip as shown.
Repeat on all blocks.


…and another six inch strip as shown.


Finally, add the 8.5 inch strip as shown. This completes the cabin block.


On a bed or a clear section of floor, layout your blocks as shown. Keep all the red corners (fireplaces) to the one direction.

Section the quilt now into diagonal rows. ie. 1st row has one block, 2nd row has three blocks. etc.

Label the first block in each diagonal row.
You will have nine rows.
We can now begin adding the “hills” around our cabins (white triangle setting pieces).
There are four triangles along each side that are the same size.
The four corner triangles are slightly smaller.
We will do the sides fist.

Cut four, 14 inch squares.

Cross cut these squares into four triangle each, as above.
Add one of these triangles to each end of rows 1,2,3,4 and 6,7,8,and 9 using my photos as a guide to placement. The point of each triangle needs to match up with the cabin block evenly. The triangle will overhang the cabin block at the edge of the quilt, don’t worry, this is intentional.


To make the triangles for the corners.

Cut an 8 inch square.
Cut diagonally once, to makes two triangles.
Repeat. You will have four triangles, one for each corner.

Join a triangle to either end of row five as shown above. Once again, there will be overhang.

Attach the final two triangles to the other corners as shown above.
Finish sewing rows together. The overhanging triangles will give the effect of the cabins being set into the hills, the white fabric completely enclosing the cabin blocks.
You may need even up the edges slightly with your rotary cutter before adding the borders.

I have put two borders on this quilt.
The first border is a 1 inch (1.5 inch cut) red gingham print.
The second border is 3.5 inch (3.75 inch cut) green clock print.
Quilt and bind as desired.
One quilt 65 inches square.
Much too pretty to roll up and take on the tractor to head up the hills!

Julie Sebire
{narioka@blogspot.com}

Sweet Silhouettes Wall Hanging & Pillow Covers


I’m April Rosenthal from Prairie Grass Patterns, and I’m so excited to show you my first recipe for the Moda Bake Shop–it’s a room makeover! With a few throw pillow slipcovers and a sweet wall hanging, you’ll want to make a set for each season and holiday. For even more versatility, make each piece double-sided.

(Psst! These slipcovers fit 20″ square throw pillows just right, but would also work great with an 18″ pillow.)

(1)  Hideaway Fat Quarter Bundle (you will use 16)
40 x 46 Batting
1⅓ yards Heat ‘n Bond lite (for applique)
1⅓ yard red gingham (backing & binding)
Applique templates included in PDF

Choosing your fabrics:

The biggest thing to remember when making this recipe is contrast. You’ll want each applique shape to stand out as much as possible, so you’ll need to do a bit of color planning. I chose to use all the red, white, and aqua fat quarters from my Hideaway bundle, which left me just enough yellow and green fat quarters to make another batch of this recipe for early spring!

Choose 2 white and 2 aqua non-directional fat quarters for your wall hanging backgrounds. Then, choose 2 red, one white, and one aqua fat quarter for the applique shapes.

Now, choose 4 fat quarters as the fronts of your pillow slipcovers. This would be a good place for a larger overall print, or directional prints. The applique shapes for your pillow covers will come from the aqua and white fat quarters you chose above. Also choose 4 more for the backs of your pillows.

Making the Wall Hanging:

Using the 4 fat quarters you chose for your wall hanging background, trim each piece to 16″x21″ (be sure to remove the selvage first!). Set aside.

Next, trace the applique shapes onto your Heat ‘n Bond. The inner and outer lines will be traced together, and will form the cut lines for your applique outline, and your pillow shapes. The middle line (dotted) will be traced separately and will be the cut line for your inner shape on your wall hanging. (In the pictures you will not see inner and outer cut lines, I freehanded it. After doing that, I thought you’d be happier if I added the inner and outer lines for reference.) Since the applique shapes are a little larger than a regular piece of paper, you’ll have to piece them together.

Cut the shapes apart individually, leaving room around each shape. Do not cut on the lines. Following the instructions on your Heat ‘n Bond package, adhere each shape to the appropriate fat quarter. My shapes were ironed-on as follows:

  • Single outline ice skate and snowflake: Red fat quarter #1
  • Single outline snow cap and mug: Red fat quarter #2
  • Double outline ice skate and snowflake: Aqua fat quarter
  • Double outline snow cap and mug: White fat quarter

Cut out each shape on the lines, making sure not to cut into any of the shapes. On the double outlines, you will need to cut the inner line by folding the fabric, and cutting a small snip along the line, just large enough to get your scissors into, then cutting out. Same for the inside shapes, like the inside of the mug handle & the cutouts in the ice skate blade. You’ll need all these pieces later, so don’t ruin them! Set aside the inner shapes to use on your pillow covers.

Iron the single outline shapes to your background pieces, centered. Then, iron your contrasting outline piece on top, being sure to include any small detail pieces, like on the ice skate above. Your outline should cover all raw edges on the shape underneath.

  
Stitch around each shape. I used a large zig zag with matching thread (to emphasize the contrasts) for mine, but a blanket stitch or other decorative stitch will work well also. I do not suggest using contrasting thread, as it blurs the contrast between your applique shapes and colors.
 
When all pieces are stitched on, press from the backside and square up if needed. Make sure each piece still measures the same size.
Assemble a 4-patch “block” out of your 4 appliqued rectangles, placing your shapes as shown. Pay attention to which way your shapes are facing so that they end up right side up. First, place top two squares right sides together with the right piece on top, pin, and stitch down the right side. Press to the right. 
Repeat for the bottom 2 squares, press to the left. Then, place top and bottom pieces right sides together, pin and stitch.
 
Open the newly stitched seam and press to one side. 
Now comes the fun part (and the reason I told you not to use directional fabric for your backgrounds). Measure 2″ from the vertical middle seam, cut. Repeat on other side of seam. 
Fold the middle piece at the seam, sew the opposite side together, and unpick the original seam. Open the newly stitched seam and press left and right in opposite directions, as shown below, reattach to both sides repressing seams on side pieces all one direction, ignoring the center seam.
  
Now, cut 2″ from each side of the horizontal middle seam, and 2″ from the top and bottom. Trade places with the bottom and top sections (see picture below). Reattach, re-pressing seams as necessary. Press toward border.
Now, cut 2″ from left and right sides. Rotate each piece 180 degrees. Reattach. Press toward border.
 
Back, quilt, and bind however you would like!

The Pillows

Using the (8) fat quarters you set aside for pillows, trim all so that they measure the exact same size, leaving selvage intact. Using method described above, attach the inner applique shapes to your pillow fronts, slightly offset as shown below.

Machine stitch around each applique shape to secure.

Now, putting right sides together, and matching up selvage edges, sew around 3 sides leaving selvage edge open. Zig zag around raw edge if desired.

Using your fat quarter scraps from the applique cut outs, cut (6) 8″x2½” pieces for each pillow, for the ties.

Fold lengthwise from edges in toward middle, press. 
Fold bottom up 1/4.” 
Fold in half lengthwise again. Press, then stitch as close to the edge as you can down both sides.

Fold the selvage edge in 1½”, pin in place. Then, lining up the ties directly across from each other (3 on front, 3 on back), pin a tie at the 4½, 9, and 13½” marks.

Sew around the hem twice, first about 1/4″ from the edge, and then about 1/2″. I just adjusted my needle position all the way to the right the first time around, and then all the way to the left the 2nd time.

Now fold the selvage up to the 1/4″ stitching line. Sew 1/8″ from the edge of the selvage, and again 1/8″ from the fold. This binds up the raw edges of the ties nicely and also creates a stiff edge so that your case looks more symmetrical and doesn’t sag on the tie side.

Your outside edge looks pretty cute too.

There you have it!

I hope you’ve had fun with this tutorial. While I was making these, I was thinking it would be really fun to make both the wall hanging and the pillow covers reversible, so that I could just flip everything around when the next season or holiday shows up. All you’d have to do, really, is applique another season’s shapes on the backside of the pillow, and make another wall hanging for the “backing” with the other colors. Do a little generic quilting, and voila! Easy to change holiday decor!

The winter shapes are included with this tutorial, but I’ll be posting shapes for other holidays/seasons on my blog very soon. Come stop by! And if you decide to try out the reversible thing, let me know, I’d love to see it.


1 seasonal wall hanging (29″ x 39″)
4 throw pillow slipcovers (fits a 18″ or 20″ square pillow)

April Rosenthal
{prairiegrasspatterns.com}
{21stcenturycharmschool.com}