SLICED Tutorial: Sleepy Fish Toy

I made my fish with leftover layer cake pieces but it is a great project for any scraps .The scales in the pattern only require about an inch square so don’t throw away anything! What’s more, because this is for little people, the more variety of scraps you can incorporate, the more interesting it will be.

Fabric leftovers
Toy stuffing
Rattle ball
Needle and thread
Fabric pen
Turning tool
Assorted ribbon 

Step 1 – Cut out your templates
  • The two sets of templates in this project are to be used in different ways. The fin, eye and scale templates are given without a seam allowance and will provide you with a line to stitch on.
  • The body templates are given with an added seam allowance and will provide you with a line on which to cut. 

Step 2 – Make the fins, eyes and scales .
  •         Lets start with the tail fin. Select a scrap that fits the template with an extra ¼” around the outside.
  •          Draw around the template directly on the wrong side of the fabric and mark the turning gap.
  •      –  Layer this on top of a second scrap with right sides together.
  •      Lastly add a third layer of cellophane on the bottom.

  • Sew together following the line, starting and stopping at the turning gap. Backstitch a few stitches either side of the gap to hold the seam securely when you are turning.
  • Cut the fin out ¼” from the stitch line.
  • Clip the curves all the way around the outside to remove the bulk.

  • Turn the fin right sides out through the turning gap. Don’t be afraid of creasing the cellophane! Just pretend it’s not there!
  • Use a blunt pointed tool like a knitting needle or a wooden BBQ skewer to help you push into the corners.
  • Press the finished fin flat.
  • *** Do not have your iron on the highest setting for this and do not hold the iron on the pieces for more than about 2 seconds.  Otherwise you might distort the cellophane. ***

  • Repeat this process to make the top and bottom fins, 2 eyes and 14 scales. You will not need to mark the turning gap on the other pieces as they all have an obvious open edge. 

Step 3 – cut out the body pieces
  • Use the templates to cut your body pieces from your fabric left overs. You get to be creative here. You may want to choose a wide variety of prints and colours or decided to keep it more uniformed in colour. I picked a variety for the front and selected greens and blues for the back.
  • To make the front of the fish, cut pieces by drawing round the templates onto the right side of the fabric. Cut one tailpiece, one strip 1, one strip 2, one strip 3, one top of headpiece and one bottom of headpiece.
  • To make the back of the fish cut pieces by drawing round the template onto the wrong side of the fabric. Cut one top of headpiece, one bottom of headpiece and one back body piece.

Step 4 – sew the parts together
  • Take the tailpiece and place it right side up on a flat surface.
  • Arrange 3 fins along the left edge. As the scales are double sided, have a look at both sides and decide which you like best and arrange you colours as you go. Allow enough space either side so the scales are at least ¼” away from the edge at all points. This will mean that you will not sew through a scale when you are sewing the 2 sides of the body together later.
  • Cut 2 lengths of ribbon 2 ½.”
  • Fold them in half and place between the scales.
  • Clip these in place. You can use pins if you prefer but I find clips a lot easier.  

  • Sew these pieces in place with an approximate 1/8” seam to secure.
  • Place strip 1 on top right sides together and clip in place.
  • Sew together using ¼” seam.
  • Fold strip 1 back and press in place.

  • Continue to add strips and fins in this way.
  • After strip 1 has been pressed add 4 scales.

  • After strip 2 has been pressed add 3 scales and 2 pieces of ribbon or ric rac either side.
  • When adding the strips, secure on one side first. As the edges are slightly curved it will be at an angle so manipulate the edges in to place as you go. 
  • After strip 3 has been pressed add 4 scales.

  • Take one of the eyes and place it on the top edge of the bottom of headpiece, just slightly left of the centre.
  • Secure with 1/8″ seam. 

  • Place the top of headpiece on top and sew together using ¼” seam.
  • Fold back and press the seam so the eye faces down.

  •        Clip the head to the body and sew together using ¼” seam.

  • Fold back and press in place. 

  •  Sew the back body pieces together in the same way.
Step 5 – add the fins
  • Place the fins, in their correct places, on the right side of the back of the fish.
  • Place with the fins pointing inwards and line up the raw edges.
  • Place the top fin at the top in the centre.  Add the bottom fin to the bottom in the centre and add the tail fin in the middle of the tail. 
  • Secure with 1/8” seams.

Step 6 – add the ribbon tags
  •        Cut six 2 ½” lengths of ribbon.
  •        Fold them in half and press.
  •        Add the ribbons to the front side of the fish on the tailpiece. Place 3 at the top and 3 at the bottom.
  •        Secure with 1/8” seam.

Step 7 – add the hanging loop
  • Cut a strip of fabric 20” x 1 ½” or if you are using a layer cake cut two 1 ½” strips from one square and          sew them together.
  • Fold the edges ¼” into the middle along the length.

  •       Fold the whole strip in half so the folds meet and secure with a line of stitching close to the edge.

  •           Cut a piece of velcro ¼” x 1 ½”. 

  •           At one end of the prepared hanging loop strip, fold the raw edge over ¼”. 

  •          Place one side of the Velcro on top and sew around the outside to secure in place.

  •             At the other end of the hanging loop strip, add the other half of the Velcro 1” from the edge. This will be the end that is sewn to the fish.

  •  Take the back of the fish and add the hanging loop in the middle of the top fin. Secure with 1/8” seam.

Step 8 – complete the fish

  • Take the back of the fish and place it right side up on a flat surface.
  • Fold all the pieces into the middle and pin them to hold them out of the way when sewing the two sides of the fish together.

  •        Place the front of the fish on top right sides together and clip in place.
  •        Leave a turning gap in the headpiece.

  •         Sew around the outside with a ¼” seam starting and stopping at the turning gap.
  •           Backstitch a few stitches either side of the gap to strengthen when turning.
  •         Turn the fish right sides out being careful of the pins as you do so.
  •        Ensure none of the scales have been caught in the stitching and all the parts are sitting neatly.
  •         Press well.
  •         Stuff the fish with toy stuffing.
  •        Add the rattle half way through so it is in the middle of the fish’s body. 
  • Close the gap with a slipstitch.
  • Now give your fish a name and a new little owner…

One lovely sleepy fishy toy.

      Be sure to drop by my blog for more information about my experience with the Sliced Competition and a behind the scene look!

      Beth Studley

SLICED Tutorial: Quilt Story Apron

Hello!! I’m back sharing another tutorial from a project I made for the Moda Sliced Competition!  You can also check out my Pea Pod Pincushion tutorial from the competition.  I hope you enjoy making this sweet apron.  Make sure to come and say hi at Quilt Story too! 🙂

2-3 fat quarters for bodice and pockets
Six 1/4 yard cuts for skirt and ruffles
1/4 for scallops
1/4 yard for neck straps
Fat quarter for center waistband
1/3 yard for waistband ties

Pattern Pieces {included in the Printer Friendly Version}:
Main Bodice
Side Bodice
Top Band
Scallop & Pocket

Four 1 yard cuts of ric rac, lace, pom poms, etc.
1 yard medium weight interfacing for bodice and pockets
Tape measure for flower pin
1 yard thin ribbon

*** Use half inch seams for construction of this apron unless otherwise noted.
***The bodice for this pattern is a women’s size 5.

Part 1: Bodice Construction

Use a medium-weight interfacing and sew bodice sides to main bodice piece, then add the top band. Main bodice pattern, side bodice pattern, and top band pattern are included in the Printer Friendly Version.  Repeat and create an identical lining piece, no interfacing needed.

Add iPod pocket to inside of lining.  Cut two pieces, 5″ x 6″ and interface one piece.  Sew right sides together along each side and top, leave the bottom open.  Turn right side out and press.  When pressing, turn in the edges of the unfinished bottom by 1/4″ and press.  Add a trim along the finished top if you’d like.  Pin the pocket in place and sew around sides and bottom.  Reinforce the tops of each side.
Next, top stitch a ribbon across the seam of top band and bodice. Create a bow and tack into the middle of  ribbon bodice.
Create neck straps by cutting 2 strips of fabric, 4″ x 38″. Fold in half lengthwise and sew down entire strip with an angle at the end. Turn right side out and press.
Next is the bodice ruffle trim. Fold in  half lengthwise RST (right sides together) a piece of fabric measuring 2.5″ x 20″. Sew short edges together. Turn right side out and press. Run a narrow gathering stitch along raw edge. Gather to a ruffle to match the top of the bodice. Add the ruffle with a narrow top stitch to front apron bodice piece, along the top band piece. *Minding the half inch edges on each side of bodice. 
Put bodice and lining RST and pin neck straps in between and to the sides of bodice.  However you will leave a little more than a half inch on edges so they don’t get sewn into the seam.  Stitch together sides and top, turn inside out and press. 
Bodice complete.
Part 2: Skirt Construction
Cut 5 strips for the skirt.  From top to bottom my measurements are 5.5″, 6″, 4.5″, 5.5″ and 3.5″ inches long, all by 25″ inches wide.  Sew together in that order.
Using the trims, and coordinating threads, sew trims cross all the seams (as pictured).  Serge or turn side edges in 1/4″ and 1/4″ again and stitch to finish sides of apron. 
Make a wide gathering stitch across top of apron as shown.
Create your bottom ruffle by cutting a piece of fabric 2″ x 40″, turn bottom edge 1/4″ in, and 1/4″ in again press and stitch. Do this to the two sides as well.  Make a wide gathering stitch 1/4″ from raw edge. Gather evenly to match apron width. Set aside.
Cut scallop fabric in half widthwise, to have two pieces 4.5″ x WOF.  Using the scallop pattern {in the Printer Friendly Version}, trace onto the wrong side of your fabric and create four full scallops.  Take the wrong sides of the scallop fabrics and pin together.  Sew along tracing and trim 1/4″ around.  Turn right side out and press.
Take your ruffle and scallop and with RST pin to the apron along the bottom edge. Serge or stitch 1/4″. Open and press. Do a very narrow top stitch on the bottom apron edge.
Create your pocket using pattern piece {found in the Printer Friendly Version}. Embellish as you would like with trim, different fabrics, embroidery etc. Using same pattern piece create a lining piece out of white or coordinating fabric.  Interface one side of the pocket.  Using 1/4″ seams, stitch around the sides and rounded bottom of pocket, leaving the top open. Turn right side out and press. Turn top edges in about a 1/4″, press really nicely and top stitch closed.  Pin pocket in place on apron and use a narrow top stitch to stitch in place. Be sure to reinforce each side at the top.
Gather top of skirt to match finished apron top. With RST pin and sew or serge together.
Part 3: Finishing
Using the fat quarter piece for the center waistband cut a piece 7″ x 13″.  RST sew together lengthwise.  Press with the seam in the center.  Also press the short ends 1/4″ in for a finished look, but do not stitch yet.  Set aside.  Cut two waistband ties 6″ x 34″.  RST sew together lengthwise and on one end of each finish at an angle.  Turn right side out and press. 
Place the waistband ties into the unfinished edges of the center waistband piece.  Center the waistband piece over top of the bodice and skirt seam.  Pin in place and sew a narrow top stitch around the entire center waistband, closing the sides as you go. 
Part 4: Tape Measure Flower Pin, optional
Clip metal ends of measuring tape off. Using hot glue, create a circle center roughly the size of a finger. Create petals by softly folding measuring tape and gluing to center. Alternate sides of flower while rolling and rotating softly.  Start with smaller folds and get larger as you get to the end of the flower.  Try first without glue to get a feel for the process.
Once you’ve finished the tape measure flower you can add some fabric petals or leaves.  Fold a 2″ piece of fabric in half and in half again. Trim raw edge sides into a curve. Add hot glue and place little fabric petals within the measuring tape flower.  Create larger petals using the same method and 3″ pieces of fabric. Put 3-4 of these at the base of the measuring tape flower.  Hot glue a pin clasp thing (that’s what they are called right) 🙂  to the back of the flower, and pin where you would like.

One darling apron!

Thank you so much for all of you who left comments during the competition, it was so much fun and we had a blast!  Thanks to Moda too!! 🙂  I’ll be posting a tutorial for my portable file folders soon!
Be sure to visit our blog, Quilt Story.  We’d love to have you!
Quilt Story

SLICED Tutorial: Owl Tag Along Toddler Backpack

Hello all! My name is Angela Pingel and I blog over at Cut To Pieces. I recently participated in Moda Bake Shop’s SLICED competition and had the honor (and shock!) of winning. I’m pleased to share with you today my final project for the competition, the Owl Tag Along Toddler Backpack.

This backpack is fully insulated with heat/cold resistant batting to make a functional yet adorable lunch tote. Lined with laminated fabric, it is perfect for the messes that come with a toddler, making it easy to wipe clean. The backpack uses basic box construction techniques, piping, a zipper, cording, D rings and more. I’m not saying that this is easy. But trust me, you will be happy with the bag! And so will that special little someone. It’s the perfect project for a holiday or birthday gift!

approximately 6 Assorted Layer Cake Pieces
assorted scraps (for owl eyes and nose)
1 yard of Twill/Home Dec weight fabric (this is plenty!)
1/2 yard of laminated fabric
1/4 yard of mesh utility fabric
1/2 yard of Insul-Bright insulated batting
1/2 yard of fusible non woven interfacing
Basting Spray
2 yards of nylon cording (sized to fit through eyelets)
Heat-n-Bond Lite II
1 package of coordinating piping
18″ zipper
1/4 yard of nylon strapping
1 package of 4 D rings
2 double cord stops

optional but helpful: teflon sewing machine foot
optional but helpful: freezer paper
optional but useful: scotch guard

Unless otherwise noted, all seam allowances are a 1/4″.

Use the pattern pieces provided to cut the backpack front and back from the twill fabric and the lining front and back from the laminated fabric.  Be sure to mark the top center of each piece. I like to use freezer paper to create my pattern pieces because I can iron the piece in place from the non-waxy side.


A little tip when working with laminated fabric: you can quickly press the fabric from the BACKside using a pressing cloth to help protect your iron and the fabric. The heat will make the fabric more malleable which may or may not be useful for you.


Creating the Lining:

In addition to the two pieces cut from the provided pattern pieces, also cut the following from the laminated fabric:

(1) 10 1/2″ x 4 1/4″ – bottom of backpack lining
(2) 8 3/4″ x 4 1/2″ – sides of backpack lining
(2) 15 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ – zipper opening
(2) 7″ x 4 1/2″ – interior pocket

Cut the following from the Insul-Bright Batting:

(1) 10″ x 4″ – bottom batting
(2) 8″ x 4″ – side batting
(2) backpack lining pattern minus a 1/4″ all around

Mark 1/4″ from each corner on the side and bottom lining pieces.


Spray-baste batting onto the wrong side of the laminated fabric, centering the batting on the pattern pieces.  Sew batting in place in even lines across all lining pieces. (I used 2″ increments.) I chose to keep the batting out of the seam allowance to help reduce bulk.  The laminate is already a bit tricky to work with and placing the batting only on the usable part of the bag eliminates some struggle you might have working with both the laminate and the batting.


TIP: When working with the laminated fabric, you will have the most success if you use a teflon sewing machine foot. It will not cling to the laminate and allows you to sew more easily. Most likely your teflon foot will look something like this:


Construct the interior laminate pocket by using the two ” x 4 1/2″ pieces. Place these right sides together and sew around the perimeter leaving a couple inches open to turn the piece right side out as seen in the picture below. Clip the corners, turn the piece right side out and top stitch along the edge.


Place the pocket on the lining back piece, centering the pocket. Stitch along the left, bottom and right sides to attach the pocket piece to the lining back. To create an extra detail to the pocket to hold something like a pen, stitch a vertical line 1 1/2″ from the right edge.


Construct the top opening and sides of the lining, starting with the two 15 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ pieces. The lining will not actually be connected to the zipper until the final step, so we are creating a finished edge for the lining at the zipper opening. Fold in one long edge on each of the two pieces by a 1/2″.


Top Stitch the fold in place. (You will love having that teflon foot for this kind of step!)


Lay the two center opening pieces right sides together on one of the side lining pieces. Align the outside edges together. There should be a gap in the middle. You do not want these to meet together!. Use a 1/2″ seam and sew these together.


Fold the side piece back and press the seam allowance toward the side piece. Top stitch the pieces in place.


Use the same procedure to sew the center opening pieces to the other side piece as well.


At this point, you have a long side/center piece, a bottom piece, a front piece and a back piece of the lining. They have been insulated and a pocket is attached. Now you need to sew all of these four pieces together. Use basic box construction techniques.

First sew the side/center piece to the front and back panels using a 1/4″ seam allowances, matching the centers and the ends. Leave a 1/4″ unsewn at each each end and ease the curves as you sew. Pin the pieces together with heavy duty pins ONLY in the seam allowance (the pins will leave a mark and you don’t want that anywhere other than your seam allowance).


Clip the curves as needed.


Sew the bottom of the bag to the other pieces one side at a time, always starting a 1/4″ in from the edge of the bottom piece. Again this is basic box construction. Clip the corners of the bottom piece to turn the piece along the edge of the bag.

(I didn’t get a great photo of this step but there are oodles out there on the Internet…just search for box construction sewing techniques)

Sew all four edges together and you will end up with an interior all lined with insulated batting and ready to go into your backpack!



Creating the Backpack Exterior:

The exterior is best tackled in steps.  Construct the back of the back pack, the sides of backpack (including the mesh pockets and zipper) and the owl front of the backpack.  Then put them all together.
Exterior Back:

In addition to the two pieces cut from the pattern pieces for the exterior back, also cut the following from the Twill fabric:
(2) 22″ x 4″ strips
(1) 5″ x 4″ strip

With each strip, fold the fabric in half along the length of the piece and press. Open the piece up again and fold in one short edge a 1/4″ and then again by a 1/4″ and top stitch the short end in place. (You do NOT need to do this particular step for the 5″ x 4″ piece). Fold the long edges of the strip in toward the center seam and press. Top stitch each long side of the folded strip.


Cut (1) 10.5″ x 9″ rectangle for the Exterior Bottom Back piece. Mark the center at the top and bottom of the piece. Place each of the long shoulder straps, raw edges together, 2″ from the center on each side and tack in place using an 1/8″ seam allowance.


Lay your piece flat and stretch out the shoulder straps flush against the back panel. Angle the straps so that they are 1 1/2″ from the outside edge and pin temporarily in place.

With right sides together, sew the exterior back panel pieces together using a 1/2″ seam allowance.


Press the seam toward the top of the bag and topstitch the top panel just above the seam (you may want a second row of topstitching a 1/4″ above that).


Remove the pins from the shoulder straps and move these out of the way while you work on attaching the D rings to the bottom of the bag.

Take the 5″ x 4″ strip that has been sewn into a small strap and cut it into (2) 2 1/2″ long pieces.

Fold the small strip in half and slip (2) D rings onto the loop.
Use a zipper foot to sew the D rings tightly in place at the center of the small straps.
Mark 1 1/2″ from each side of the bottom and place the D ring straps to the inside of each mark. Tack in place using an 1/8″ seam allowance.

Pull the long shoulder straps through the D rings following the manufacturer’s instructions.


Apply piping to the outside edge of the whole back exterior panel around the sides (not the bottom). Be sure to use a thread that matches the piping for this step and a zipper or piping foot.


Cut 8″ of nylon strapping for a hanging loop and attach it to the top of the exterior back with raw edges aligned and stitch in place using an 1/8″ seam allowance.


Step back and admire your work! You have completed the exterior back of the backpack!


Exterior Sides:

There are two distinct parts to making the exterior sides: making the center zipper and making the adjustable mesh pockets.

Zipper installation:

Cut (2) 15 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ strips of Twill fabric. Install the zipper between these two pieces.

Use your zipper foot for installation and top stitch the fabric in place for a smooth finish.


Shorten the zipper according to the manufacturer’s instructions.


Mesh Pockets:

Cut the following:
(2) 8 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ pieces from the Twill fabric
(2) 5 1/2″ x 7 1/2″ pieces from the Mesh Fabric
(2) 7 1/2″ x 3 1/2″ pieces from layer cake piece chosen for pocket casing


Take the (2) casing pieces measuring 7 1/2″ x 3 1/2″ and fold in half along the length, wrong sides together. Press. Open out the pieces and press each side into the center.

You should see 4 “sections” of the casing now. Along the 2nd section, add a small scrap of interfacing across the middle. Mark the center (3 3/4″ from either end). Measure 1″ or so from each side of the center and mark your eyelet locations.


Install the grommets according to the manufacturer’s instructions with the wrong side of the grommet on the interfacing.


Cut (4) pieces of cording 14″ in length and thread it from the wrong side of the fabric through the eyelet to the right side. Tack it in place along the wrong side edge.


Insert the mesh fabric into the grommet placket casing and top stitch along the edge of the casing.



Attach the mesh to the side twill panel pieces by first stitching along each side using an 1/8″ seam allowance. Box pleat the bottom of the mesh to be fit perfectly flush with the twill fabric and stitch in place.


Insert the cording through a double cord stop. Trim cording to desired length and knot each cording end.


You may want to insert a pull tab on the zip side, so attach a 3 1/2″ piece of ribbon/twill tape folded in half to the pocket piece on the zip side.


Now attach each side pocket piece to the center zipper piece using a 1/2″ seam allowance on each side. Top stitch each piece in place.



Yay! You’ve finished the exterior side pieces!      

Exterior Front:

And now the part that I’m sure you’ve been waiting for! Making that sweet owl for the front of the backpack. I saved it for last because it’s my favorite part!

In addition to the (1) exterior front backpack pattern piece cut from Twill, you will also need the owl pattern pieces.

 Cut (2) Owl Belly Pocket pieces from (2) layer cake pieces.


Fold (1) neutral layer cake piece in half and cut (2) Owl Face pieces.


Cut (4) Owl Wing pieces from (2) matching layer cake pieces.


Apply Interfacing on the wrong side of one piece of each owl part: 1 per wing, 1 for belly pocket and 1 for owl face. Again, to lessen the bulk I like to keep the interfacing out of the seam allowance. So trim it to 1/4″ shorter than the pattern piece on all sides.


With right sides together, stitch 1/4″ around the belly pocket sides and top. Clip the corners and notch the curves.


Turn the belly piece right side out and double top stitch the top of the pocket.


Match the centers of bag front and belly pocket. Tack the pocket in place along the bottom of the bag using a 1/8″ seam allowance.


Stitch the sides *only* of belly pocket to the bag front.


To make the wings, sew (2) wing pieces right sides together along the sides only. Clip the seam.


  Turn wings right side out. Flip top in and under 1/4″ and top stitch all around the wing pieces.


Sew Wings to either side of the belly pocket, attaching *only* at the top of the wing using a tight double top stitch. Your wing will be free to flap this way.


To make the owl face, sew (2) owl face pieces right sides together around the shape, leaving a 2″ or so unsewn gap at the bottom of the face. Trim seam allowance to 1/8″, turn right side out and press firmly.


Creating the eyes:

Cut (1) gray 2″ circle and adhere steam a seam lite II to the back. Cut the circle in half. Then trim an 1/8″ away from the outside edge (make this a good cut! These are the pieces you are using on the backpack). Use the remaining inner circle pieces to cut some tiny pieces for your eyelashes.

Arrange as desired. Remove the paper backing and press all eye
pieces in place. Be sure not to move your iron back and forth…this is an up and down pressing motion.


Using an open toe applique foot, top stitch or satin stitch around the edge of each piece with matching grey thread.


Creating the nose:

Cut (1) small triangle from a scrap of fabric. Back this piece with SAS Lite II as well. Remove paper backing and press in place. Top stitch or satin stitch around the edge.


Spray baste the back of the owl face and position it on the Exterior Backpack front above the Belly Pocket and Wings. Top stitch around the whole perimeter of the face.


Eep!! Isn’t she sweet?!



Sew piping to the Exterior bag front along the edges but not the bottom just as you did for the Exterior Back.

You now have a completed Exterior Front, Exterior Back and Exterior Sides.

Cut (1) 10 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ twill piece for the Exterior Bottom and you can start to sew all of these pieces together. It is constructed exactly as the interior lining was, with box construction.

First sew the Exterior Sides to the Exterior Back, matching centers and ends. I used my zipper foot to keep that piping nice and snug!


Ease the curve together and clip seams as necessary. Remember to leave a 1/4″ unsewn at the bottom of each side.



Starting to see a bag!


Yum….pretty piping!


I keep the backpack straps pinned up and out of the way.


Continue to construct the backpack together, sewing the bag front to the bag sides.

Then sew the bag bottom to the backpack using the same construction techniques as you did with the lining: box construction. So be sure to mark the quarter inch seam allowance at each corner on the bottom Twill piece.


 Sew all four sides together, clipping corners as necessary.


Turn bag right side out. Admire your work. You are almost there!!

 Putting the lining and exterior bag pieces together:

This is it! The very end!! All that you need to do now is insert the lining into the exterior backpack and stitch together at the zipper.

Insert the bag lining into the backpack ensuring that WRONG sides are together.


Push and finagle that lining into its proper place and line up the openings of the backpack exterior and the lining. The laminated fabric should be tucked back from the zipper a bit so it does not get caught in the zipper. Use heavy-duty pins and carefully pin the lining in place.


You may want that teflon foot back again depending on how you do the last step, but this is it! Sew the lining opening in place along the edge of the exterior zipper. There are some tricky parts to this but just keep fiddling with the bag until you can sew all around the zippered edge.

You will end up with what looks like a double row of top stitching on the outside!

  Now do the happy dance because you are DONE!!

One Backpack perfect for the Toddler in your life!

I hope that you all enjoy this pattern and try to tackle it. If you’re dying for the look without too much hassle, you could always make an unlined version and finish off the interior seams with packaged bias tape. Quick and Easy! (well…easier!) I would love to see any projects made from my patterns, so please add them to my group on Flickr, Cut To Pieces and of course to the Moda Bake Shop Group as well.

And don’t forget that there are endless possibilities for color combinations and themes. In another lifetime I will find the time to make a boy version of this in navy blue and kelly green, perhaps with a sweet whale face! My mind is a whirl with all of the adorable options for how to personalize this backpack to a particular child’s tastes. Personally my girl is quite pleased with her owl. The owl who says “whooo!”

Angela Pingel

SLICED Runner-Up Beth Studley

The Moda Bake Shop is so proud of our Sliced runner-up, Beth Studley. Visit Beth’s blog, {}, to see a behind the scene’s look into her design process for the contest. Stay tuned for Beth’s Sliced tutorials in the near future!

Like so many, Beth’s love of all things crafty started in childhood. From making friendship bands and modeling clay beads, to stenciling walls and painting furniture, she was always creating. Thanks to a terrific teacher, Beth fell for quilting in a big way when she was 15. She soon began to enjoy exploring her own ideas more than following patterns. It just wasn’t worth doing unless it was a challenge and different each time! 

Beth went on to study textile furnishing design at University which greatly improved her approach to design. She became much more interested in designing ‘products’ and functional items. Beth likes problem solving and the satisfied feeling when something ‘works’. Almost everything Beth has made is in use somewhere in her home or someone else’s. 

Today Beth lives in London with her partner and their 2 young children. She has a couple of online shops that sell bunting, fabric notebooks, and purses. Beth has also written a number of sewing patterns for UK magazines. These have been varied from quilts and bags to recycling projects and children’s craft ideas. Beth enjoys designing her own prints and has quite a few ranges available through Spoonflower.

Please visit her website {} for links to her online shops, details of magazine publications, news and free patterns.

Congratulations again, Beth!!

SLICED Winner Angela Pingel!

The Moda Bake Shop is thrilled to congratulate Angela Pingel of Cut To Pieces for winning the Moda Bake Shop Sliced Competition! Angela, you should receive your prizes shortly.

Angela Pingel is a self-taught quilter who has been sewing for over 20 years.  She made her very first quilt during her senior year in high school for her college dorm room.  Her degrees include a BA in Mathematics from Saint Mary’s College and an Associates Degree in Interior Design from Ivy Technical Institute.  

Angela has been published in 101 Patchwork Projects  and Modern Patchwork by Interweave Press, 99 Modern Blocks by C&T Publishing, and featured on the Moda Bake Shop.  She manages her blog, Cut To Pieces, in her free time between sewing and raising her sweet little girl with her husband.

Stay tuned for more of Angela’s tutorials in the near future…

SLICED Tutorial: Inspiration Board

Cork Board
Spray adhesive
Scrap of batting cut to fit cork board
Roll of Upholstery Tack
Rhinestone Buckle
Fabric Stabilizer
(1) spool of Coordinating Ribbon
Hot Glue Gun or Staple Gun
(1) fat quarter of a Moda script print fabric
(1) fat quarter of a Moda Bella Solid fabric
Assorted Charms for Spool Paper Piecing

– Measure the dimensions of your cork board and cut a piece of batting to fit directly over the cork but not the frame.  Use the spray adhesive to attach the batting to the cork board.
–  Use the charms to create a paper pieced spool of thread.  The background of the spool should be the Bella solid. 
– Cut the script fat quarter to cover roughly half of the cork board plus 2 extra inches on the top and sides for upholstery purposes.  Exact dimensions will depend on your particular cork board. 
– Piece together the bottom half of the fabrics for the cork board using the paper pieced spool and the bella solid.  Again, you will want roughly two inches around the bottom and side perimeters. 
– Sew together the script fabric and bottom spool fabric to create your full fabric piece for covering the whole cork board. 
– Pick a font that you like to create a template for your letters in the word “Inspire”.  It is easier if you use a script font so the letters connect seamlessly.  Size the word to suit your cork board and lightly trace it onto the fabric with a pencil.  Use a fabric stabilizer behind your letters and free motion stitch the letters using your pencil lines as a guide.  (You may want to practice this technique first!  I do this with my feed dogs down, a bobbin matching my solid fabric, and a small stitch length on my machine.  But find the right technique for you and your machine.)
– Use the spray adhesive and align your sewn fabric over the cork board as desired. Pay particular attention to the fabric over the actual cork.  Making it as smooth as possible.  Use basic upholstery techniques to wrap the fabric around the edge and to the back. 
– Use either a heavy duty hot glue gun or a staple gun to hold the fabric in place.  Be sure to fold the corners in tightly. 
– Place your buckle and ribbon on the upper third of the cork board.  Pull the ribbon fairly taught and wrap it around to the back of the board as well.  
– Hold it in place with either hot glue or a staple gun. 
All fabric should be held firmly in place at this point with just the upholstery tacks left to place.  
 -Use the roll of upholstery tacks to hold the fabric in place, using the edge of the frame as a guide.  Cut the roll of tacks to size per side. 

You’re finished!  Hang your new inspiration board on the wall and start filling it with beautiful images that “Inspire” you!

Angela Pingel


What a month of creative and inspiring projects from all our contestants! This has been such a joy to see what creations these four people were able to come up with from a random selection of mystery items.  On our last week we had two competitors left and they had to come up with a project using a zipper, grommets/eyelets and fabric from a layer cake. Here is what our judges had to say…



Moda Sliced Finals – “Owl Tag Along” Toddler Backpack by Twee ✁cut to pieces

Love this backpack for Toddlers! It is adorable, functional and unique.  I especially love that she incorporated all the required basket items in one creative project.  I also like how she mixed fabrics from various Moda collections instead of using from all one. Great use of items and beautiful construction.
It’s precious, well made, unique, and so much fun! The details are great and I will definitely be making one of these.
Using Insul-Bright for the batting is a unique idea and lets the backpack double as a lunch bag. Laminate on the inside with limited pockets great for clean up. Making the side pockets out of mesh was a good way to limit the weight – important in a bag designed for small toddlers. The overall style of the bag was traditional and similar to what you’d find in-store for a school backpack. This is probably good for a toddler, as little-ones are always on the lookout for something “just like the big kids.” The addition of the big owl face was a nice way to add some innovation. We were particularly impressed by the side pocket construction. The mesh was very nicely bound on top with the cotton band and fit perfectly against the side piping. The pleating at the bottom was very neat. And, the shoelace grommets with the small cording and cord stop were all nice details and executed with precision.The use of Layer Cake squares was limited to the happy owl face. It would have been interesting to see some additional use of the pre-cuts within the overall design. The wide curved opening with the contrasting zipper and the adjustable straps – although expected on a child’s backpack, were certainly features that gave the project a professional finish.



Mum’s Day Tripper Bag, Compact Changing Bag, and Toy by lovefrombeth

This is wonderful! I love how this set goes together. It’s practical, pretty, and well made.
All three projects are super adorable.  The bonus projects are especially cute and functional and are an essential to a mommy’s day trip with a little fella.  The grommet was used on the inside of the bag as a holder for keys or the little toy fish. Which is functional, but would have loved to see them used on the outside of the bag.
A very innovative use of Layer Cake squares to create an interesting patchwork design on both the interior and exterior of the bag as well as on the coordinating changing pad. Super clever use of the remaining scraps as well as ribbon (and interesting “crunchy bits” on the insides) in the Sleepy Fish. The design doesn’t “scream” diaper bag – it has more of a tote-like shape, giving it life after baby as a stylish bag for Mom. The changing pad’s pleated side pockets are both clever and functional, and the entire pad folds up very nicely – without a lot of bulk.  The sewing detail is beautiful, from the perfect points of her patchwork to the top stitching detail on the changing pad… from the professional feet on the bottom (protecting the bag and keeping it stable) to the lovely dimensional handle. We were very impressed with the craftsmanship. Beth’s choice of pattern and color was excellent. This bag combo would work equally well for either a boy or a girl. We liked that the design selections were whimsical and fresh, but not too-babyish. As mentioned above, this extends the longevity of use. We could see this bag flying off the shelf at Anthropologie.
Angela Pingel from Cut to Pieces… CONGRATULATIONS!
Check back for more about our two contestants that competed in the final round and their projects to be posted on the Moda Bake Shop. 

SLICED – Week 2 Projects

What an exciting week! Three talented crafters competing against one another to make an Apron using the mystery basket of items… Moda Fat Quarter, Flexible Tape Measure, and Embroidery Floss.  Check out their submissions for Week 2…


Addison Hostess Apron by Twee ✁cut to pieces

The Addison Hostess Apron
My entry for the Moda Sliced Competition – Apron Challenge.
I’ve used a number of different construction techniques to create the perfect hostess apron. Greet your guests in style!
Fabrics include Reunion by Sweetwater, La Petite Ecole by French General and Modern Workshop by Liesly Gibson for Oliver + S

This bib apron uses honeycomb smocking made with perle embroidery floss, a gathered waist and a double apron skirt complete with pockets lined with tape measure twill tape.



Two way Apron sideways by lovefrombeth

A little apron for you and sewing machine to share!
I wanted to design a ‘desk apron’ to keep bits and bobs to hand but wanted it to be more exciting than a simple pocket with sections. By making it wearable too I could indulge in bows and frills and give it some character!
While you are using your machine the apron skirt will rest on your lap so your bits and bobs are just where you need them.
The pocket, which is hidden behind the bow, has sections for different tools and notions.
When you are working away from your machine, hand sewing or cutting, you can wear it as you would a normal apron. The table section folds behind the skirt and the big bow at the front continues round to tie at the back. There is a wide loop under the skirt to hold the ties out of the way when they are not needed.
The measuring tape is appliqued, with embroidery floss, to the table section. It is positioned at the front so that it can be used for a quick measurement check when sewing. Handy!

The apron uses 3 fabrics from separate ranges. The feature fabric is from the Punctuation range by American Jane. The lining print is from the circa 1934 range by Cosmo Cricket and the accent fabric is from Urban Cowgirl by Urban Chiks


Quilt Story’s Apron

Quilt Story’s entry for Moda’s Sliced Contest: Aprons.
This was such a fun project to create!! The bib or bodice on this apron is fit for a woman! I’ve added lots of details with trims, bows, ruffles and a scallop on the bottom. The fabric lines used are mostly Ruby and Sophie. with some Bliss. I used fat quarter cuts throughout, and yardage on longer pieces.
On the inside of the bodice is a secret little pocket for your phone! I love this and made it custom for me, so hopefully you find this useful too! 🙂 I always have my phone on me, plus having it closer to me on my chest also makes it so I can use my headphones to listen to music while I craft and clean.
I added a separate “tool belt” to use specifically when I’m crafting. It will conveniently fit all of your tools, rotary cutters, tape measures. quilting pens, etc.. It coordinates and easily ties over top of the existing apron. I love the option of using it when I need it and taking it off when I’m done.
You will notice on the skirt of the apron a pocket with the super sweetest little deer resting on a quilt! 🙂 I love to embroider in my free time and was so excited that we were asked to incorporate embroidery floss on this project.
Finally I took a measuring tape and turned it into a rosette! I added some fabric bits here and there and I think it turned out sweet 🙂 It is removable with a pin on the back.
I hope you like my apron, it was so much fun to make! And thanks to my darling niece for modeling!

Which one is your favorite?

Check back on Sunday to find out who will be SLICED and who will continue on to the Championship round… Week 3!