Honeysweet Pinwheel Quilt


Thank you for stopping by the Moda Bake Shop to see what is baking today.  I’m happy you stopped by for a visit.  Let me introduce myself…I’m Pauline Francis and you can also find me blogging at Quiltnqueen.  I am back to share my 3rd recipe with you.  Today I am baking a sweet recipe…using one of Moda’s ‘beautiful’ fabrics Honeysweet designed by Joanna Figueroa from Fig Tree and Co.  I hope you find it ‘yummy’.

  • 3 Charm Packs Honeysweet ~hst’s
  • 2 yds Honeysweet Solid Ivory 20199-31 ~hst’s
  • 1 yd Honeysweet Amber Drops Raspberry 20217-12 ~borders and binding
  • 3.25 yds Honeysweet Poppy Blooms Ivory 20215-11 ~backing

  • use 1/4” seam allowance throughout
  • use your favorite method for pressing the pinwheels…to eliminate the bulk I press my all the pinwheel seams open, using a shortened stitch length
  • press border seams towards the narrow border pieces
  • wof = width of fabric
  • hst’s = half square triangles

Cutting:

  • From the Ivory 
    • cut 12 – 5″ strips wof
      • subcut into 96 – 5″ squares
  • From the Amber Drops Raspberry 
    • cut 6 strips 1-1/2″ strips wof  for borders
    • cut 6 strips 2-1/2″ strips wof for binding
  • Choose one charm square that contrasts with the inner border
    • cut 4 squares 1-1/2″ x 1-1/2″ for the corner stones in the inner border 

Piecing:

  • choose 96 Honeysweet charms and draw a diagonal line on each
  • pair each of the 96 Honeysweet 5″ charms with a 5″ ivory square, right sides together and stitch a scant 1/4″ on both sides of diagonal line.  

  • cut on the diagonal line

  • set the seams, press seams open  

  • trim hst blocks to 4-1/2″ (using a rotating cutting mat works great for this step) 

  • you now have 2 piles, one with the trimmings and one with perfectly trimmed 4-1/2″ squares…this important step makes all your hst’s go together perfectly

  • to make the 6 large center blocks, you will need 96 hst’s.  You can choose to make your center blocks scrappy or choose a color way for each of the 6 blocks.  I made the 6 center blocks each a different colorway.  Choose 16 hst’s of each color way for the 6 center blocks…set aside the other 96 hst’s for the outer border.
  • lay out your hst’s as shown below.  It will look like a 16 patch block.

  • sew together in rows of 4

  • now sew your 4 rows together and you have one center block that measures 16 1/2″ x 16 1/2″ 

  • make 5 more 16 patch center blocks
  • sew 2 of the center blocks together side by side
  • repeat 2 more times

  • sew the top, center and bottom rows together…set aside this large center section of the quilt…you will need it again when you add the inner border.  It should measure approximately 32-1/2″ x 48-1/2″.

  • 4 hst’s make one pinwheel block
  • take the remaining 96 hst’s and mix the different color ways to make 24 pinwheel blocks…balance your colors to make them scrappy.  The pinwheel blocks should measure 8-1/2″ x 8-1/2″ 





  • take 4 of the pinwheel blocks and sew them together. This will be part of the top outer border.  Repeat for the bottom outer border
  • take 6 of the pinwheel blocks and sew them together for the side outer border.  Repeat for the other side outer border.
You are now ready to add the borders…

  • measure the sides of the center piece…they should be the same length
  • measure the top and bottom of the large center piece…they should be the same width
  • you will use these measurements to cut your inner border pieces 

    • take 3 of the 1-1/2″ x wof strips, join them using a 45 degree angle (like you would piece your binding strips).  Cut 2 pieces that measure the length of the sides of your center piece
    • with the remaining 1-1/2″ strips cut 2 pieces that measure the width of the top and bottom of your center piece
    • cut 8 pieces measuring 1-1/2″ by 8-1/2″ 

Lay out your quilt pieces into 5 rows as shown below
TIP:  when attaching the 1-1/2″ inner border to the pinwheel blocks place the border piece next to your sewing machine and have the pinwheel blocks on top.  That way you see the pinwheel seams and are less likely to have the seams flip the wrong way.  Nest your seams…pin at each seam..I like to use extra fine pins.

  • sew your blocks together to make the 5 rows, press seams towards the narrow border 
  • press the corner stone seams in row 2 and 4 towards the narrow border
  • sew rows 1 and 2 together
  • sew rows 4 and 5 together

  • sew the 3 rows together to complete your quilt top
  • press your seams towards the narrow border pieces
  • quilt and bind

I hope you enjoy this Honeysweet Pinwheel quilt.




A lap size quilt approximately 52″ x 68″


Thank you for stopping by the Moda Bakeshop today to see what  I was baking.  I hope you liked my recipe.  It has been a lot of fun baking with Moda.  

I would love it if you came to visit my blog.  I have another version of this quilt to share.  It measures 52″ x 52″ using American Jane’s Fairy Tale Friends charm packs.  Stop by and enter my giveaway.  


Have a wonderful day!!

Happy stitching

Pauline Francis

Super-Sized Maple Leaf Throw Quilt



Hi! I’m Anjeanette and I’m back with my most favorite recipe yet. If you follow my little blog, you have seen my Fall Leaf runner that I made last year using a charm pack. I get so many repins and tons of hits on my blog from that one tutorial. I thought it would be perfect to use in a larger size for a throw. I had been searching for a maple leaf shape that wasn’t an applique, and also looked fairly realistic. I couldn’t find anything I liked so I came up with my own, which I am sharing with you today. I taught a class on the runner recently, and came up with some tips for accurate sewing that you may want to check out on my blog too.


1 Layer Cake {Honeysweet by Fig Tree and Co.}
1 Charm Pack {Honeysweet by Fig Tree and Co.}
4 yards background fabric {Honeysweet Solid Biscuit 20199 38}
3 1/2 yards backing fabric {Autumn Rose Biscuit 20210 18}
3/4 yards binding fabric {Scrollwork Persimmon 20214 15}
Batting
Kite template
Tri-Recs Ruler if you have one

Each leaf will need one piece from the layer cake and one matching piece from the charm pack.

Make sure you are cutting carefully to get all the pieces you are going to need from the layer cake piece.

For one leaf you will need:
(6) 2 1/2″ X 4 1/2″ (from the layer cake)
(1) 2 1/2 X 2 1/2″ square (from the layer cake)
(1) 4 1/2″ X 4 1/2″ square (from the charm pack)

From Background fabric:
(1) 4 1/2″ X 4 1/2″ square
(6) 2 1/2″ X 2 1/2″ square
(2) diagonal pieces from backing fabric (as described below)

From backing cut (1) WOF x 5″. If you have a Tri-Recs ruler, you will use it here to make your diagonal cuts.

If you don’t have that ruler, cut to 5″ X 3 1/2″. from the top left, measure over 1/2″ and mark. Measure from the bottom right 1/2″ and mark. Match a ruler on those two points and cut.

***(If your backing fabric is printed or has a wrong and right side, make sure you are cutting two layers with wrong sides together because you are going to need a right side and left side of these cuts.)

You will need a pair of these diagonal cuts for each leaf.

To make one leaf:
Start with one long printed rectangle piece and one square background piece. We are going to do a corner flip here, aka snowball. Lay the two pieces right sides together with the small square matching along the top of the rectangle. Sew diagonally from corner to corner of the square. Trim the excess and press.

Three of your pieces like this will be angled from the right bottom to the top left and the other three will angle from the bottom left corner to the top right. You are going to need to press them in alternating directions. All three with the angle going to the right top need to go in one direction and all three with the angle going to the top left need to be pressed the opposite way. This will make them nestle nicely when sewing together in a “flying geese” shape.

Take your large patterned piece from the charm pack. Lay the kite shape template on top.

Cut off excess pieces. You should have a kite shape now.

Sew your diagonal pieces to each side with 1/4″ seam and press towards the background fabric.

Trim to square. I always put the point in the first cut of trimming because I want to make sure the tip does not get cut off. Make sure there is at least 1/4″ beyond the tip when you make the cut.

Then turn the block and trim to size.

Lay out your leaf. Sew together in rows. You will need to sew the bottom right pieces together and press before you can complete that row.  Press row seams in opposite directions. Top row to the left, second row to the right, bottom row to the left.

Press your whole block.

Your block should be roughly 10 1/2″ square. Finish all your leaf blocks and get a rough idea how you are going to lay them out. Which way are the large points going to face etc. To the right side of each block add one 10 1/2″ x 3″ sashing piece and press.

Add a 13″ x 3″ sashing piece to the bottom and press. Finish all your blocks this way. They now should be roughly 13″ square.

Lay out your leaf blocks and your solid blocks the way you want the quilt to go. You could use a leaf in each block, or add in some 13″ X 13″ blocks as I did below. I used 9 blank blocks in my layout. Sew together in rows, pressing seams in opposite directions, i.e. top row to the right, second row to the left etc. Sew the rows together to your quilt top.

Using my instructions for adding borders, add a 3″ border to the top of the quilt, press. (You will likely need to sew two pieces together to make each border).

Add a 3″ border to the left side of the top. Press.

Make your quilt sandwich, quilt and bind.


A wonderful 63 1/2″ X 63 1/2″ leaf quilt that you can easily use from the end of summer all the way through Thanksgiving! Enjoy!

Anjeanette Klinder
{www.anjeanettek.com}

Hexa-Bunting



Hi everyone! This is Anna from HootnHaller. I am very excited to share my first Moda Bake Shop tutorial with you today. This is a tutorial for a bunting that is a great decoration for a party, special event, or to spruce up any room. If you have been nervous to try the honeycomb precuts in the past, I hope you try out this project that uses these fun fabric cuts!


1 Moda Honeycomb precut (Honeysweet by Fig Tree & Co.)
1/2 yard coordinating fabric



MAKING THE HEXAGONS
1. Sort your hexagons into pairs. Stack the pairs right sides together.

2. Use the template that comes with your precuts to mark dots on one of the hexagons in each of your pairs. (If you have never used the honeycombs before you are in for a treat! This template is amazing and makes sewing the quarter-inch seam soooooo much easier!)

3. Connect the dots that you drew using the template as a straight edge. You can leave one side without a line. These lines show you where to stitch your seams.

4. Follow the lines to sew a quarter-inch seam allowance along five of the sides.

5. Trim off the corners of each of your sewn-together pairs.

6. Turn each unit inside out. You may need to use a turning tool to get the points to pop out. Give your unit a good press.

7. Bring the units back to your machine. Using a coordinating thread, topstitch a quarter-inch from each edge.  

MAKING BIAS TAPE 
1. Cut one 20″ square from your fabric.

2. Using your rotary cutter, cut down the diagonal of the square. I used two rulers to reach the entire length, but you can use one ruler and move it for a second cut.

3. Sew the two triangles together by lining up the straight sides as shown below.

4. Cut 2″ strips along the bias, or the diagonal line you have created with the fabric.

5. Pin and sew the strips together.

6. Fold the bias strip in half and press.

7. Open the fabric up on the fold and fold each side towards the center crease. Press.

8. Fold the strip in half so that no raw edges are showing. Press. You have just created double-fold bias tape!!

ASSEMBLING THE BUNTING
1. Lay the hexagons out in an order that is pleasing to you.

2. Pin the hexagons into the center of the bias tape. Make sure to leave at least 10″ of bias tape before you place your first hexagon. Leave 3-5″ between each hexagon. Once you start to pin the hexagons you may decide to leave a larger or smaller gap – it depends on how you want your finished bunting to look.

3. Sew about 1/8″ from the edge of the tape. This will keep the bias tape closed and will secure the hexagons.

You will have one completed hexa-bunting! Enjoy!!

 Anna Haller
{www.hootnhaller.blogspot.com}