Christmas Ribbons Quilt


Shops are filled with holiday fabrics and we have a series of fun and festive quilts to inspire you to get that Christmas sewing done early this year!

14 Fat Quarters (Be Jolly by Deb Strain)
3 yards light background (Bella solids in Bleached White)
3/4 yard binding
4 1/2 yards backing


Iron and starch your fat quarters.  Make sure you have at least 16”x21” of usable material in each piece.  Cut each fat quarter into eight 5” squares and four 5.5” squares according to diagram:

From your background (white) fabric, cut:
twelve 2.5”xWOF strips (sashing)
eight 4.5”xWOF strips (border)
eight 5.5”xWOF strips
Subcut your 5.5”xWOF strips into 56 @ 5.5” squares.    Draw a diagonal line on all of these background squares:

I found it easiest to work with one ‘row’ at a time, so you are working with the prints from 2 contrasting fat quarters at a time (so no fabric mix-ups within the row are possible).

Pair each background 5.5” square with one of the print 5.5” squares cut from your fat quarters:

Sew a scant 1/4” from each side of the marked line:

Cut along diagonal line:

Press seam open:

Trim each HST (half square triangle) to 5”:

On each of the 5” print squares cut from your fat quarters, draw a diagonal line:

Pair each of the 5” squares with a 5” contrasting HST:

Align them so that the drawn diagonal line goes in the opposite direction as the seam on the HST:

Sew a scant 1/4” seam from either side of the drawn line:

Cut on drawn line:

Press seams open:

Trim off dog ears if you prefer (optional).  This creates two 3-patch quarter square triangles that are the mirror image of each other:

When you get all the 3-patch quarter square triangles done for each pair of fat quarters, then you can arrange them into the blocks.  Sort your 3-patch blocks into piles (there will be 4 different configurations).  Lay them out so that all the white triangles face toward you and the small print triangles face each other.  I found this the easiest way to keep everything straight.

Half of them will be for the A block, and half for the B block (B block top 2, A block, bottom two):

So, start with the bottom two piles:

There are 8 of each of these 3-patch blocks.  Seperate 4 from each pile:

And rotate them 180 degrees so the white triangle face away from you:

Now you can sew these 4 sets of 4 3-patch blocks into your A blocks:

The B block is assembled the same way:

Only, when you sew the B block to the A block, you rotate is 180 degrees.

There will be 4 ‘A’ blocks and 4 ‘B’ blocks (don’t forget to rotate the B blocks!) per row.  Sew these 8 blocks (alternating A block and rotated B block) into one long row:

(sorry, my ironing board wasn’t quite long enough to show the entire row!)

Repeat with the other 6 pairs of fat quarters.  When you have your 7 rows sewn, you can start to assemble them into your quilt top.  Sew your twelve 2.5”xWOF strips into pairs to make 6 longer strips.  Measure your rows (mine measured just over 67” at this point), and cut your 2.5” strips to that measurement.  Sew the strips between the rows:

With your eight 4.5”xWOF strips, sew them into 4 pairs and attach your border.  You should now have a completed top!

Layer, baste, quilt as desired, and bind!


An approx. 76” x 79” quilt!

Karin Vail
{cascadequilts.com}

Tumbling Around Quilt



Hi there! Konda Luckau from Moose on the Porch Quilts here. I have loved playing around with honeycombs! I have a tumbling block quilt from my grandmother that I love. I have wanted to make one for a very long time. These Honeycombs finally make this quilt easy, and fun, to make! I have a new technique for piecing these blocks by machine – including being able to chain piece the blocks. I have a new book coming out this Spring full of projects using this new technique. Give it a try. You just may like it!

1 25th & Pine Honeycomb
1 1/4 yards White Bella Solid
2/3 yard Honky Tonk Red Plaid
1 1/4 yards Backing
Plastic Hexagon Template from Honeycomb


Cutting Instructions:
1. Take the plastic hexagon template from the honeycomb. Cut it as shown below.

2. Cut the white background fabric into 4 – 2 1/2″ strips, 4 – 4 1/2″ strips, and 3 – 2 5/8″ strips.
3. Using the diamond template, cut 28 diamonds from the 2 5/8″ strips.
4. Cut the red accent and binding fabric into 4 – 1 1/2″ strips and 4 – 2 1/2″ strips.
5. Take 25th & Pine Honeycomb and cut each hexagon into three diamonds as shown below.

Sewing Instructions:
6. Reorganize the diamonds into three stacks according to color.

7. Now for the magic! This is the trick to piecing y-seams on a sewing machine. The difference between my method and traditional machine piecing techniques is that my method can be chain pieced! Chain piecing means it is a lot faster and less thread waste. Refer to the picture below.
    a. Start the seam 1/4″ down from the corner.
    b. Sew 1/4″ into the diamond parallel to the top edge of the diamond.
    c. Sew down the right edge of the diamond with a 1/4″ seam.
    d. Stop 1/4″ from bottom edge.
    e. Sew to the right edge parallel to the bottom edge.
    f. Now it is ready for the next piece!

8. Seams will be pressed clockwise.

9. The bottom diamond is sewed on one seam at a time. Using the same method as above, matching diamond points, sew the right seam.

10. This is what it looks like opened up.

11. Fold hexagon in half matching points and sew the last seam as shown below.

12. Press the seams clockwise opening up the center of the seam allowances into a bitty hexagon.

13. With those three seams, one tumbling block is created! Repeat to make 38 tumbling blocks.

 14. Lay out the center of the quilt as shown below.

15. Using the same machine piecing technique as before, sew the tumbling blocks into rows.

16. Again, using the same machine piecing technique as before, sew the rows together.

17. Trim the left and right sides even. Trim the top and bottom 1/4″ outside of the points. The quilt should now measure about 26″ x 27″. Your measurements may differ slightly because of the many bias edges. Press carefully.

18. Use the 4 – 2 1/2″ white background strips to sew on the first border. Measure carefully before cutting the length of border strips.
19. Use the 4 – 1 1/2″ red accent strips to sew on the second border. Measure carefully before cutting the length of the border strips.
20. Use the 4 – 4 1/2″ white background strips to sew on the third border. Measure carefully before cutting the length of the border strips.
21. Quilt and use the 4 – 2 1/2″ binding strips to bind the quilt.

One fabulous quilt machine pieced tumbling block quilt that measures about 39″ x 40″.

Konda Luckau
{www.moosequilts.com/blog}

Candy Flowers Pillow




1 Mini Charm Pack – Print / Chance of Flowers
2 Mini Charm Packs – Solid / Bella Solid in Snow
3 Coordinating Fat Quarters
21″ Pillow Form


22″ Square of batting for quilting the pillow top
22″ Square of scrap fabric or muslin

Pull 40 printed charms and 64 solid charms.

Pair up 40 prints with 40 solids, right sides facing.  Finger press a a diagonal crease on one side.

Chain stitch the 40 pairs of prints and solids on the diagonal crease.

Optional: 
Without breaking the chain, run the the charms back through and stitch a 1/2″ over.  Rather than throwing the trimmed fabric away, this quick step will create 40 little HST’s for future projects.

Cut. The pictures below show both options.

Open and press.

You should have a stack of 40 Half Square Triangles (HST) and 24 Solids.

Layout:
Using 12 HST’s and 4 solids, create a star.

Add the next row around – double check to make sure your HST’s are going in the right direction.

Add the points on the top and bottom.

Fill in with the remaining solid charms.

Piece:
Feel free to use your preferred method, I’ll show mine.

Some people like to stitch from the inside out, others in rows or even quadrants. This is how I piece several small squares that I want to keep in a certain layout and direction.

Going in vertical rows:  Fold the squares on the right column onto the squares on the left.

Chain stitch – do not cut the thread between squares.

Feel free to press the seams, I don’t find it necessary and I will press later on.

Using the set of chained pairs, fold the first two pairs right sides together and stitch.  Open. Fold the next pair up onto the previous pair and stitch. Repeat until all 8 pairs are pieced together.

Leaving them chained is nice because they stay in the right order and direction.

Open and press the seams all in one direction.  When you complete the next row, press those seams in the opposite direction. This will make it easier to piece the rows together.

Stitch the two completed rows together.

Stitch the other two rows using the same method, and sew the halves together.

If your edges are raggedy, feel free to trim a little and straighten them out. Just be careful not to cut off the HST points along the edge and leave a seam allowance.

Take a Fat Quarter and cut four 2.5″ strips down the length of the fabric.  You will have four strips approximately 21″ wide.

Attach one strip to the top and one to the bottom of your block.

Press open and trim.

Attach the other two strips to the sides.

Press open and trim.

Optional:  Using the batting and scrap fabric, quilt as desired. Trim.


Double fold:

Take your remaining 2 Fat Quarters and along the 21″ side,  fold over 1″ and press.  Fold over another 1″ and press.

Top stitch along the top and bottom of the fold.   Repeat with the other Fat Quarter.

The Math:

The two back pieces will create an envelope style enclosure and they need to overlap about 4″.  Since everyone sews 1/4″ seams a bit different, we may have slightly different sized pillow tops.

Take the width of your pillow top and divide by 2.  
Add 2″. 
You should be somewhere near 12″. 

Trim both Fat Quarters to that measurement. Trim the raw edge opposite your double edge fold, leaving the 21″ width intact.

Example:  My pillow top is 20″.  20 divided by 2 = 10. Add 2 = 12″.  I now have two fat quarters that measure 21″ x 12″ each. (21″ side has the double fold)

Part 2:

Trim both Fat Quarters so they don’t hang off pillow top. Instead of being 21″ they will probably around 20″.

Layer:  
Pillow Top right side up
Fat Quarter #1 right side down – lining up raw edges along the side
Fat Quarter #2 right side down – lining up raw edges along the opposite side

Pin or clip edges in place. Stitch along the edge all the way around.

Zip Zag or Serge the seam you created. This will help prevent fraying in the future.

Turn right side out and you are done!

I’m using a 21″ pillow form.


One pillow cover.  If you make a Candy Flowers pillow cover, I would love to see it.

Julie Hirt
{627handworks.com}

Quilt As You Go Improv Pillows



Hi All! This is Jera from www.QuiltingintheRain.com bringing you a creative weekend project. This pillow uses a modern Quilt as you Go technique which will be featured in my upcoming book, Quilt-As-You-Go Made Modern, to be released this Fall. I’m so excited to share this technique with you all!
 
The Quilt as you Go technique is very creative as it doesn’t follow a precise pattern. Rather, it takes on more of a improvisational style of piecing and quilting. For updates on my latest quilting endeavors, check out my Quilting in the Rain Facebook page and blog. You can also find me on Instagram. Thanks so much for stopping by and enjoy the tutorial!


Please Note – For this pillow I used leftover Layer Cake squares from the April Showers Collection by Bonnie and Camille. Leftover fat quarter scraps will work too. For the solid borders, I used Moda Solids Prairie Cloth in Buff (this material is home decor weight but has a linen/canvas feel to it). For the back of the pillow, I used Moda’s Twill (home decor weight), Nautical Ticking Stripes in Red.

For Pillow No.1 (14″ x 14″ pillow cover):

  • 1 layer cake square (or a 10″ square cut from a fat quarter) 
  • 1/4 yard border fabric
  • 3/8 yard Backing
  • 15.5″ x 15.5″ batting square (needle-punched batting)
  • pillow insert

 For Pillow No.2 (16″ x 12″ pillow cover):

  • 6 layer cake squares for variety (or six different fat quarter prints)
  • 1/4 yard border fabric
  • 3/8 yard backing  
  • 17.5″ x 13.5″ batting square (needle-punched batting)
  • pillow insert 


    For Pillow No. 1 (14″ x 14″ pillow cover):

    1.  Take a 10″ square and place it in the center of the batting. Place a few pins to help keep it down. Then, quilt it directly to the batting. As shown below, make sure your stitch starts and ends on the batting.

    I did free-motion quilting with some simple loopy-loops. If you’ve never free-motion quilted before, now is a good time to try it out as it’s easier to do it on a smaller, more manageable block.

     2. From your border fabric, cut two 3.5″ strips along the length. Take a strip and trim it with fabric scissors so it’s the same length as the side of the square. With right sides facing together, sew a 1/4″ seam allowance.

    3. Press open, and then quilt lines that run parallel to the seam. There will be some extra fabric hanging over the batting. As shown below, make sure your stitch starts and ends on the batting.

    4. Take the strip and trim it with fabric scissors so that it measures the length of the square and strip that you just pieced together, as shown below. With right sides facing together, sew a 1/4″ seam allowance.

    5. Press open, and then quilt lines that run parallel to the seam. There will be some extra fabric hanging over the batting. 

    6. Repeat the previous steps until there is border fabric surrounding all four sides of the square. You are essentially piecing fabric in a log-cabin style method, but quilting it directly onto the batting as you go.
    When you are finished, the entire batting will be covered and will look similar to this.
    The back will look similar to this:
    Flip the block over so the batting side is facing you. Trim the excess fabric sticking out side of the batting. Then, flip it over so the patchwork is facing you and trim approximately 1/4″- 1/2″ from all four sides so that your block measures 14.5″x14.5″.
    7. Next, create an envelope closure for the backing. From your backing fabric, cut two 11″x14.5″ rectangles. Along the length,  turn the edge 1/4″ under, press, then turn under 1″, then press again. Stitch along the fold to keep in place to create a pretty seam. Repeat on the other rectangle as well. 
    With right sides facing together, take one rectangle and align it along the left side of the pillow cover. The finished seam you created from the previous step should be facing toward the right. Pin to keep in place, then sew a 1/4″ seam allowance along the perimeter as illustrated by the dashed line below. Start and end your stitch with a back-stitch.
    Repeat with the other rectangle, but align it on the right side of the pillow. Lastly, trim the corners to get rid of bulk fabric, and then turn right side out.
    Insert the pillow and there you have it! 🙂

     
    For Pillow No.2 (16″ x 12″ pillow cover):
    Please note: For this pillow, the same exact technique that was described above (for pillow No.1) was used, except with smaller pieces of fabric. The technique I explained from the first pillow will give you the basic understanding you need to complete this next pillow. That being said, I will not list step-by-step instructions.  Rather, I have listed the order in which the strips should be pieced. Enjoy!
    1. From your fabric, cut one 3″ square and a couple 2″ strips from each print (you will trim these strips as needed).
    2. Start by placing the 3″ square in the center of the batting, and then quilt it. Next, add strips making sure to trim them with fabric scissors to the correct size. Add the strips in the following order, using the quilt as you go method previously described. For this pillow, I quilted straight lines that ran parallel to all of the seams. 
    Tip! Fabric can shift while stitching on the batting. Correct for this by keeping the strips aligned and ‘square’ them as necessary. The seams of each successive piece should be at a 90° angle to the previous quilted piece. 
    Also, please note that your pieces will shift around slightly and the batting will stretch a little – this is completely normal. So don’t expect yours to look as straight as the illustration above. =)
    3. From your border fabric, cut one 5-6″ wide strip along the length. With right sides facing together, place the strip along the length of the patchwork as shown below. Overlap the strip with the patchwork as needed to straighten it out, and as mentioned in the “Tip!” above. Sew.
    4. Press the strip down, and then quilt lines that run parallel to the seam. Repeat for the top so that the entire batting is covered.
    5. Flip the block over so the batting side is facing you. Trim the excess fabric sticking out side of the batting. Then, flip it over so the patchwork is facing you and trim approximately 1/4″- 1/2″ from all four sides so that your block measures 16.5″x12.5″.
    6. Next, create an envelope closure for the backing. From your backing fabric, cut two 11″x12.5″ rectangles. Repeat step 7 from Pillow No.1 to create the envelope closure and to finish your pillow. 
    And that’s it! Quilt as you Go is a fun and different way to quilt. I hope you enjoyed learning this new improvisational technique! Now that you know the concept, you can get really creative with all the other fun Quilt as you Go pillow designs you can think up! 
    (Above: Paige modeling a Quilt as you Go strip quilt using the Scrumptious collection by Bonnie and Camille).
    Come visit me at www.QuiltingintheRain.com for more Quilt as you Go projects. You can also find me on Facebook and Instagram.
    Let your creativity rain!
    xoxo
    -jera brandvig

    Finding the 4-Patches Quilt


    Hi, I’m Dawn Cornell and today I have a cute quilt for you. It’s made with American Jane’s new line, Ducks in a Row. I call this quilt “Finding the 4-Patches” because it has a series of 4-patches in the main and secondary blocks. It’s all surrounded by a fun piano key border, making the most of two layer cakes and some beautiful Bella Solids.

    Ready? Let’s sew!

    2 Layer Cakes (I used “Ducks in a Row” by American Jane)
    ⅔ yard Bella Solids Lemon 9900-131, Green 9900-101, and Orange 9900-80
    1 yard Bella Solids Cayene (red)  9900-256 and Cobalt (blue) 9900-227
    1½ yards Bella Solids Black 9900-99 for sashing, border and binding.
    5½ yards for Backing (21650-11 multi is a good choice)

    Large 4-Patches
    Cutting

    From the Bella Solids (except the black), cut:

    • 2 – 10″ x width of fabric (WOF) strips from the Lemon, Green and Orange
    • 3 – 10″ X WOF strips from the Red and Blue

    Sub-cut these strips into 10″ squares, yielding 4 squares from each strip (for a total of 8 each lemon, green, and orange squares and 12 each red and blue squares)

    Cut all the leftover Bella Solids from this step into 2″ x 10″ strips to use in the border.

    Piecing the Large 4-Patches
    Pair layer cakes with the solids as pictured below (each Layer Cake piece will yield 2 blocks).

    You will make:
    -2 red/green dot  and 4 red/lemon floral
    -2 blue/red dot and 4 blue/red floral
    -4 orange/blue floral
    -4 lemon/black floral
    -4 green/orange floral

    This combination will make a total of 24 large 4-patches.

    This quick piecing method for large 4-patches yields two 4-patches from each set you sew…With right sides together and the solid on top, stitch along the two side raw edges. Cut in half (5″ from the raw edge, not the sewn edges) and press to the solid.

    Lay the two halves right sides together with the opposite fabrics touching and the center seam locking. Draw a line down the middle across the seam (5″ from the raw edge). Sew 1/4″ seam on each side of the drawn line. Cut on the line and voila you have two 4-patches. Press to one side and square to 9″.

    NOTE: If you set your ruler on the center seam at 4 1/2″, trim top and side, turn block 180 degrees and do the same, the block will square evenly.

    Pieced Blocks
    Cutting

    Pair the layer cakes with the solids as pictured below (each layer cake piece will yield 2 blocks).

    Make:

    2 blue/red check and 4 blue/red multi print
    2 red/green check and 4 red/green multi print
    4 lemon/black multi print
    4 orange/blue multi print
    4 green/orange multi print

    This combination will make a total of 24 pieced block units.

    Layer right sides together, solid on the top, cut each double layer into 2″ strips (each set will yield 4 strips 2″ x 10″)

    Repeat with each pair.

    From these strip sets you will sub cut:

    A – 2″ x 5″ strips

    B –  2″ x 3½” strips

    C –  2″ squares

    A segments: Right sides together and solid on top, sew each segment on the short end as shown in photo above. Press to the solid. Should measure 2″ x 9½”.

    B segments: Right sides together and solid on top, sew each segment on the long side as shown in photo above. Press to solid.

    Sew these segments together with the print on top and under the needle first.This makes an elongated 4-patch. Press to one side. Should measure 3½” x 6½”

    You will have a total of 48 – 4-patches when all sets are sewn

    C segments: Right sides together, solid on top, sew each segment together press to the solid. Now sew two segments together with the print on top and under the needle first to make a 4 Patch. Press to one side. Should measure 3½” square.


    You will have a total of 48 – 4-patches when all sets are sewn.

    Sew two 4 Patch units together with the solid on top and under the needle first. Press to one side. Should measure 3½” x 6½”

     
    Sew B units to top and bottom of  C units, right sides together along the 6½” side.

    Note:  The two fabrics under the needle should be the same and the center seam should lock.

    Press to one side. Should measure 6½” x 9½”.

    Sew A units to each side of the above units along the 9½” side.

    Note:  The two fabrics under the needle should be the same and the center seam should lock.

    Press to one side. Should measure 9½”. If not square up the same way you did the large 4-patches.

    Extra Large (XL) 4-Patches

    Make XL 4-patches using the Pieced Blocks and the 4-Patch Blocks. Are you keeping up with how many 4-patches we’ve made so far?

    Each of these 4-patch units should measure 17½” square and you will have a total of 12 XL 4-patches.

    Sashing and Borders

    Cutting
    Cut the Bella Solids black into 2″ x WOF strips. You will use 17 strips: 9 for sashing and 8 for the first border. Set aside the 8 border strips. Sub cut the 9 sashing strips into 2″ x 17½” strips. Yields 18 but you will only use 17.

    From the layer cake print (white with black and red dots) cut 6 –  2″ squares for the corner stones.

    Piecing
    Assemble the blocks, sashing, and corner stones in rows as shown below.

    When assembled should measure 73″ x 54½”.

    Making the First Border

    Sew 8 Bella black border strips in sets of 2 to make 4 strips measuring 2″ x approximately 86″. Cut 2 strips 73″ long and 2 strips 58″ long. Attach the long strips to the sides of the quilt top first. Press towards the strip. Add the top and bottom borders strips and press towards the strips. The quilt top should now measure  76½” x 58.

    Making the Second/Outer Border

    From your remaining fabrics, set aside 2 white with black and red dots layer cake pieces and 1 black WOF strip for the corner blocks.

    Cut all remaining 10″ squares from the layer cake and the solids into 2″ x 4½” strips. Piece together along the long sides of the strips, starting with red solid and ending with red solid.

    Solid + Print + Solid + Print etc.

    Piece together 51 total strips for each side and 39 total strips for the top and bottom. You may need to trim a little from each end to fit. Press strip sets and set aside.


    Making the 4-Patch Corner Blocks

    Cut the white dot and black dot layer cake squares into 2″ x 10″ strips (total of 5 strips from each layer cake square).

    Sew a white strip to a black strip along the 10″ side. Make 2 of these units. Press towards the black strip. Sub cut into 2″ x 3½” segments. Sew together in pairs to make 4 – 4-patches. (More 4-patches! Are you counting?)

    From the solid red, cut 4 strips measuring 2″ x 3½” strips and 4 strips measuring 2″ x 5¼”. Sew a short strip to the bottom of a black and white 4-patch and along strip to one of the sides as shown in photo above. Square to 4½”, trimming only on the red solid fabric. Make 4 of these units.

    Attach the corners to each end of the top and bottom pieced border strips with the red to the outside.

    Sew the long pieced border strip on the quilt first and press to the first border. Add the top and bottom borders.

    If you are machine quilting, I suggest you stitch ⅛” seam around the out side edge of the border to stabilize the seams.

    Quilt, Bind, and Enjoy!


    76½” x 85″

    Oh, by the way, how many 4-patches did you find in this quilt?

    Dawn Cornell

    Applique Hearts Pillow

     

    Hi All! This is Jera from www.QuiltingintheRain.com bringing you this simple Applique Hearts Pillow tutorial just in time for Valentine’s day. Depending on what fabrics you use, the pillow can be used year round. This pillow has an easy envelope enclosure, making this a quick and fun weekend project that you can complete in a few hours.

    Also, I wanted to share that I have a quilting book coming out this year, so come check out my blog for details (or for some great tutorials!), or follow me (and my corgi, Paige) at Quilting in the Rain’s Facebook to see my latest quilts and projects. Thank you so much for stopping by! Let your creativity rain!

    • 1 yard Moda Solids Prairie Cloth in Buff (this material is home decor weight but has a linen/canvas feel to it) 
    • 1 Bella Solids charm pack in Porcela, plus one scrap for the colored heart
    • Clear glue that works on fabric
    • Coordinating thread
    • 20″ square pillow insert


    1. From the prairie cloth, cut one 21″ square. For the back of the pillow, cut two 15″ x 21″ rectangles (these will be made into the envelope closure).

    From the charm squares, cut hearts of varying shapes and sizes. I think the variety and imperfection of the heart shapes adds character to the pillow. To cut a big heart, simply fold a charm square in half and crease it with your finger so it stays folded. Then, use fabric scissors to cut the arch of ‘half of a heart’ along the folded edge. When you unfold it, you will have a heart shape.

    To make smaller hearts,  repeat but cut two hearts from one charm square. 

    I started by cutting approximately 8 big hearts, and then filled up the pillow with smaller and medium sized hearts. Also, from your scrap fabric cut one medium-size colored heart.
    2. Next, arrange the hearts on the 21″ square.
    3.Use clear glue that works on fabric to temporarily hold the hearts in place. Use very little glue as this is just an alternative to using pins and is meant to be temporary. For each heart I put the tiniest drop of glue and then spread it with my finger to make a very thin layer.
    This is the glue I ended up using but i’m sure Elmers would work just as well. I just recommend getting a clear adhesive.
    4. Sew the hearts in place using a regular presser foot. I simply guided the edge of my presser foot along the heart to sew a 1/4″ seam allowance, using a straight stitch setting.
    If you’ve never done this before, to get around the curves of the heart you will need to stop and pivot the fabric quite often. To do this, simply stop sewing with the needle in down position, lift the presser foot and pivot the fabric underneath to follow the curve. You’ll get the hang of it. 🙂 
    5. Along the length of a 15″ x 21″ rectangles,  turn the edge 1/4″ under, press, then turn under 1″, then press again. Stitch along the fold to keep in place as shown below. Repeat on the other rectangle as well.

    6. With right sides facing together, take one rectangle and align it along the left side of the pillow cover. The finished seam you created from the previous step should be facing toward the right. Pin to keep in place, then sew a 1/2″ seam allowance along the perimeter as illustrated by the dashed line below. Start and end your stitch with a back-stitch.

    Repeat with the other rectangle, but align it on the right side of the pillow.

    Clip the corners to rid of bulk and then turn right side out through the envelope opening.

    7. Lastly, rub your hands up and down the pillow to help ruffle-up the edges of the hearts. The semi-freyed and ruffled hearts adds texture to the pillow. The freying will not go beyond the stitch. 

    And there you have it! A beautiful, applique heart pillow!


    One fabulous 20″ x 20″ pillow

    Thanks again for checking out my tutorial! Come visit me at www.QuiltingintheRain.com or follow me on Facebook at QuiltingintheRain. You can also find me on Instagram.

    Let your creativity rain! 🙂

    Jera Brandvig
    {www.QuiltingintheRain.com}

    Mister DJ Quilt


    Hello Moda Bake Shop Friends!   Melissa Corry from Happy Quilting here and I am so excited to be sharing a new quilt with you today.  My oldest son is the only person in the family that did not have a homemade bedspread.  It has been put on hold because he was insistent on have “cool” fabrics.

    Sphere by Zen Chic was the perfect fit and I set out to make an equally “cool” design.  Inspired by my son’s love for music (of all varieties and volume 🙂 Mister DJ was created and can I just say,  he loves it!!!  So do you have a tween that needs a new bedspread as well??  Well, let’s show you how to do it 🙂

    To make a twin sized 70″ x 89″ Mister DJ quilt you will need:

    2 Sphere Jelly Rolls
    2 Yards of Bella Solid Grass
    5 1/2 Yards of Backing

    STEP 1 – CUTTING

    Begin by separating your jelly roll strips into 2 piles, one of Low Volume (or light) prints and one of High Volume (or dark) prints.

    From the High Volume Strips cut 21 of each of the following strip sizes:
          2 1/2″ x 11″        2 1/2″ x 10″          2 1/2″ x 9″        2 1/2″ x 8″           2 1/2″ x 7″
          2 1/2″ x 6″          2 1/2″ x 5″            2 1/2″ x 4″        2 1/2″ x 3″           2 1/2″ x 2″
    I found the easiest way to do this is to stack up 4-5 jelly rolls and cut all the even sizes from each strip and  repeat the process for 21 strips so you have a total of 21 pieces of each even size.  Then do the same for the odd sizes.  (You will have to cut a few from the scraps as you will have 40 strips and not 42)

    From the LowVolume Strips cut 21 of each of the following strip sizes:
          2 1/2″ x 11 1/2″        2 1/2″ x 10 1/2″          2 1/2″ x 9 1/2″        2 1/2″ x 8 1/2″           2 1/2″ x 7 1/2″
          2 1/2″ x 6 1/2″          2 1/2″ x 5 1/2″            2 1/2″ x 4 1/2″        2 1/2″ x 3 1/2″           2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″
    Once again,  stack up 4-5 jelly rolls and cut all the even sizes from each strip and repeat the process for 21 strips so you have a total of 21 pieces of each even size.  Then do the same for the odd sizes.

    Now, pair each High Volume piece with the opposite size Low Volume strip.  So the 11 1/2″ goes with the 2″ and the 10 1/2″ goes with the 3″ and so on down the line.  Set these aside for the moment.

    From the Bella Solid Grass yardage cut the following:
      (9) 2 1/2″ x wof (width of fabric) strips to be used for binding
      (10) 1 1/2″ x wof strips – Trim the selvage and sew 2 strips end to end to create (5) 1 1/2″ x 84 strips.
       (210) 2″ x 2 1/2″ rectangles

    STEP 2 – ASSEMBLING THE STRIPS

    Now with the cutting done you are ready to start assembling the blocks.   Grab the first set of your grouped fabric strips  (The 11 /2″ Low Volumes and 2″ High Volumes).  You will be sewing these into a row by first sewing the Solid Grass rectangle to the Low Volume strip and then second, adding the print strip to the Solid Grass Rectangle.

    The easiest way to do this is by chain stitching.  (Meaning, not clipping your threads after each strip but continually feeding strips through the machine until you are done with your pile.)  Start by placing the Grass rectangle onto the Low Volume strip with right sides together.  Chain stitch a 1/4″ seam along the edge of all 21 of your sets.  Clip the threads between your strips.

    Now, you can add the High Volume strip.  Place the High Volume strip onto the Grass rectangle with right sides together and again chain stitch a 1/4″ seam along the edge of all 21 strips.  Clip your threads.

    Now repeat this process for each of your (10) grouped sets of 21 strips.  In the end you will have 210 pieced strips total.  You want the Low Volume print to always be on the top.   Press your strip sets.

    STEP 3 – ASSEMBLING THE BLOCKS

    With your strips all set, you are ready to start sewing your blocks together.  So take all of your strip sets and mix them up in a large pile.

    Now, grab 2 random strips and place them right sides together taking care that the Low Volume print in both strips is on the top and the High Volume print is on the bottom.  Sew 1/4″ seam along the side of the strip, aligning the edges as you sew.  Chain stitch 30 of these to make 30 strip sets of 2.  Clip the threads between the 30 sets.

    Now, you are going to add a third strip to the sets of 2.  Align another randomly chosen strip along the side of the second strip with the Low Volume prints on top and sew a 1/4″ seam along the edge, aligning as you go.  If you happen to have randomly chosen a strip where the Grass Rectangle is in the same spot as the strip set, take care to match the seams.  You can just align these with your fingers as shown.   Chain stitch all 30 sets.

    Clip your threads between your sets and you are ready to add a fourth row.  Continue this process until you have added a total of 7 rows in each set.    Clip the threads between sets.

    So now you will have 30 blocks each consisting of 7 vertical rows that have the Low Volume prints on top and the High Volume prints on the bottom.

    Press the seams in the blocks to one direction.  They should now measure 14 1/2″ square.

    STEP 4 – ASSEMBLING QUILT TOP

    And now you can put your quilt top together!   Layout 6 rows of 5 blocks.  Play with the layout until it is pleasing to the eye.  Once you have layout complete mark the blocks so you remember which row is which 🙂  Now, sew the blocks into rows.  To do this, just place the second block onto the first with right sides together and sew a 1/4″ seam along the edge.  The place the third block onto the now sewn together first and second block with right sides together and sew a 1/4″ seam along the edge.  Continue in this fashion until all 5 blocks in the row are sewn together.  Repeat for all 6 rows.

    Now place a Grass Sashing Strip that you made clear at the beginning onto to the top of rows 2, 3, 4, 5, and 6 with right sides together.  Sew a 1/4″ seam along the edge aligning the fabric as you sew.

    Press all of the seams towards the sashing.  Trim the excess sashing at the end of each row.

    Now sew the rows together.  This is just like making the rows only on a larger scale.  Place row 1 onto row 2 with right sides together.  Sew a 1/4″ seam along the edge.  Press the seam towards the sashing.   Now place row 3 onto the now sewn together row 1 and 2 with right sides together.  Sew a 1/4″ seam along the edge.  Press the seam.  Continue in this fashion until all the rows are sewn together.

    And your quilt top is complete!!!  Great job!!!

    STEP 5 – FINISHING

    Now just Baste it, Quilt it, and Bind It.  I know, I make it sound so easy.  If you are new to finishing your quilt, I have created a video tutorial series that goes over the basics of each of these three steps.  You can find it at my blog 🙂   Cut your backing into 2 pieces 99″ x WOF and piece together with a 1/2″ seam.   You will use the 9 strips you cut and set aside at the beginning to do the binding.

    One ultra modern, High/Low Volume  70″ x 89″ Mister DJ twin sized quilt.  Thank you so much for joining me and I hope you enjoyed the tutorial.  If you make your own Mister DJ Quilt I would love to see it.  You can add it to my Inspired by Happy Quilting Flickr group here 🙂

    Have a Happy Quilting Day!!

    Melissa Corry
    {happyquiltingmelissa.blogspot.com}