Hey all you Moda Lovers! It’s Bradie, from A Quilty Kind of Girl here once again to share another Moda Precut pattern. When I first saw this gorgeous line of fabric designed by Sweetwater, I knew it was time to make a boyish quilt. The very next morning I woke with inspiration, and this quilt idea began.
|Ready to have some PURE fun? 😉|
|For this project you will need:
One Pure Layer Cake
TWO Pure Charm Packs
Half yard of Natural and Craft # 5435-13 for inner border
1 3/4 yards Cocoa Baby Dots # 5436-20 for outer border and binding
4 1/4 yards backing fabric.
You may also purchase all the fabrics you need for this quilt from Fat Quarter Shop!
|Begin by selecting two layer cake squares with good contrast. Place one on top of the other, both with right sides of fabric facing down. I chose to keep the lighter fabric on top, so the marking lines (explained in next step) will show a little better.
Choose 36 layer cake squares in TOTAL which will yield 36 quilt blocks.
|Draw a horizontal line through the center of the layer cake (at the 5 inch mark.) You will use this as a reference line shortly.|
|Cut the pair of layer cakes in half VERTICALLY. Do not use the drawn line.|
|Draw four marking lines on the layer cake as shown in the picture. These will be used as cutting lines.|
|Cut on the drawn lines to separate the outer corners from the diamond shaped center.|
|Take the diamond shaped centers and trim their width down to 4 5/8 inches. I trimmed them all from the inside (as shown in picture) but also experimented afterwards with cutting the outer edge. I found that it does not matter which side you trim on. The shape will turn out either way.|
|Just for fun… hard to believe this will become an entire quilt!!|
|Switch out the center diamonds from each layer cake with the contrasting fabric. I like to lay them out and see how the fabrics look together.|
|Time to stitch these blocks together! It does not matter if you stitch the bottom corners first, you may stitch in any order you like. What DOES matter, is the triangle overhang. Note in the picture, how the extra length or the bottom corner triangle extends to the outside of the block. Arrange the fabrics as shown and stitch from the outer corner inwards. Also keep in mind that you are stitching BIAS edges (which means they can easily stretch out of shape) so stitch slowly and carefully. No racecar sewing on these seams please! 🙂|
|When you stitch the top corners, you will leave the overhang in the center, as shown in the picture. Begin your stitching from the inner side to finish at the outer corner.|
|Once you have attached the four corners, you will have two halves, which you may simply stitch straight up the center….|
|Which will finish up looking just like this! At this point, it is wise to trim away the excess ‘dog ears’ and trim the block to measure 8.5 inches wide by 8.75 inches tall. Yes. It is true. Your block will not be a square, but slightly rectangular!
Make 36 blocks in total.
|Layout the blocks in 6 rows of 6 blocks. I played with the layout a wee bit, but found in the end…. they look good regardless of where they land! Sew your blocks together into the 6 rows. Finish the inner body of the quilt by sewing the 6 rows together.|
|Cut 3 strips of white inner border fabric which measure 2.5 inches in width. Sew the 3 strips to each other, then cut TWO strips which finish at 2.5 inches by 49.5. THESE WILL BE THE SIDE INNER BORDERS. Pin, and sew to the quilt sides.|
|Cut 3 more strips of white inner border fabric 2 inches in width. Again, sew the three strips together, and then cut TWO strips which finish at 2 inches by 52.5. THESE WILL BE YOUR TOP/BOTTOM INNER BORDERS. Pin and sew to the quilt top/ bottom.
This difference in strip width will bring the quilt back to a square. Which will make adding the next borders MUCH easier. 🙂
|Now to play with our charm squares!
You will 52 charm squares in total. Pair each charm with another high contrasting charm.
|Draw a vertical line down the center (2.5 inch mark) of one charm from each pair. Place charms together with right sides facing.|
|Sew a quarter inch seam on each side of the marked centerline. I chain pieced mine and did all the left side seams first, then turned it around to stitch all the seams on the remaining side.|
|Here’s a closer look at the chain-pieced charms. Trim apart all your charms.|
|Cut on the marked line to create TWO (2) color charms.|
|Sew together 13 two color charms to create a keyboard border. Make FOUR strips in total.|
|Attach one keyboard border to the top, and another to the bottom of the quilt.|
|Using one of the reserved layer cake squares from earlier, cut the 10 inch square, into FOUR 5 inch squares. Sew a 5 inch square to both ends of the two remaining keyboard borders. Sew these two borders to the sides of the quilt.|
|Take the second reserved layer cake square, and cut it into FOUR 5 inch squares. Cut 8 strips of brown outer border fabric, 5 inches wide. Sew the strips together in pairs, and trim each one to measure 5 by 61 inches.|
|Pin and sew two borders to the top and bottom of the quilt. Sorry you can’t see the borders very well…. they match my hardwood floors quite beautifully don’t you think? 🙂|
|Attach the 5 inch layer cake squares to each end of the two remaining border strips. Pin and sew these last two strips to the sides of the quilt.
Quilt as desired.
|The end result? A beautifully boyish cuddler size quilt which measures 71 inches square.
Hello Moda Precut Lovers! It’s Bradie, from A Quilty Kind of Girl here to share my Baby on the Go Diaper Bag Tutorial. I have made this bag a couple of times now, and every Mommy who gets one just loves it! A single jelly roll will yield two bags!
For this project you will need:
One Jelly Roll of Hunky Dory by Chez Moi.
One Charm Pack of Moda’s Hunky Dory.
1 1/2 yards of coordinating fabric for inside of ONE bag.
17 inch zipper.
44 X 48 inch piece of batting.
6 inch by 45 inch piece of batting.
Separate the jelly strips into two piles of 20. Each pile of 20 will make one diaper bag.
Layout your strips for the diaper bag in the order you like. Then sew the strips together, first in pairs, stitching from top to bottom. Then sew the remaining seams in the opposite direction, bottom to top. This will keep your piecing nice and straight. Your finished piece will measure 40.5 X 44 inches.
Sandwich like a quilt top with batting and the bag lining fabric. Quilt however you like. Mine has wavy lines stitched along the seams. Quick and Easy! Trim away the extra batting and backing so your piece measures 40 X 44.
Now you can cut the following size pieces from your diaper bag quilt sandwich:
Main Body of Bag 33 X 16 inches
Sides 2 Pieces 9 X 9 inches.
Side Pockets 2 Pieces 9 X 9 inches.
Front Pockets 2 pieces 6 X 6 inches.
Handles 2 pieces 4 X 40 inches.
The remaining pieces are extra and may be set aside for some other creative endeavor!
Now to prepare the pockets. You need TWO (9 X 9) inch squares, and the TWO (6 X 6) inch squares. Fold 1/2 inch of the top edge over to the wrong side and press. Then fold another half inch and pin in place. Stitch in place to create a finished edge for the top of the pocket. Repeat for the other pockets.
Use this diagram to make the following markings on the bag body. Use a marking method which will wipe away easily once project is complete.
MAIN BODY OF BAG – MARKINGS:
A – 12 INCHES FROM VERTICAL CENTER
B – 4 INCHES FROM VERTICAL CENTER
C – VERTICAL CENTER
D – BOTTOM OF SMALL POCKETS – 5 INCHES FROM CENTER
E – HORIZONTAL CENTER
F – 8 INCHES FROM VERTICAL CENTER (mark both sides of bag)
Mark the center of the two smaller pockets, and place the two pockets face down on the bag body, lining up the pocket center with the pocket marking line.
Pin in place and stitch 1/4 away from raw edge. Stitch only the bottom of the pocket. Repeat for second pocket.
Fold pocket up so right side is showing and pin in place. Baste the sides of the pocket to the bag body. We will stitch over these again when we attach the handles.
Stitch the two handle strips together at both ends to form a long circular handle 80 inches long. Lay handle right side down on ironing board. Fold the two long edges in to meet in middle. Then fold the entire strap in half, pressing as you go to hold in place. Stitch down the long side with matching thread to hold handle together. Lay out the handle on the bag body. Center handle over the sides of the two pockets to cover the raw edge of the pocket. Pin handle in place.
Stitch handle to bag body using same thread used for quilting. Stitch up to and along the 12 INCH marking line, then cross the strap and stitch down the other side of the strap. You do not want the handles stitched onto the top portion of the bag.
A close up view of the handle and pocket after stitching.
Oh! The charm pack! What are we going to do with these…
Now to make a shoulder strap for your diaper bag! Choose nine squares….
Sew them together in one long row. Place right side up on top of the 6 inch by 45 inch piece of batting. Stitch around the entire strap about 1/8 inch from the edge.
Trim away all the excess batting.
Fold strap in half the long way, with right sides of fabric facing each other. Stitch down the long side, leaving the short sides open. Turn strap right side out and press with seam to one side. Top stitch the strap with your matching thread, about 1/4 inch from edge, on both long sides of the strap.
Now this is my favorite part… I know I’m getting soooo close to being DONE!! Mark the center of all four pocket sides. See picture….
Place pocket, right sides facing, on the center marking line of the bag body. Line up the center pocket marking, with the center bag line and pin in place. Repeat with second pocket on opposite side of bag. Begin stitching (with a HALF INCH seam allowance) half an inch from edge of pocket, and finish stitching half an inch from pocket edge. This will give your bag nice square corners. 🙂 Repeat for pocket on other side of bag.
This is how the bag will look, once pockets have been attached.
Now we will stitch the side of the pocket to the side of the bag. Fold the pocket over top of the bag to line up the pocket center marking with the EIGHT INCH marking line on the bag. Pin in place. Again you begin stitching half an inch from pocket edge, and finish stitching half an inch from pocket edge. Repeat for second pocket.
Look! You’re getting closer!!
Now fold the pocket over to line up the other side of the pocket. Pin in place and stitch the same way as you did the other two sides.
Now… let’s attach the shoulder strap, k? Mark the center of the short side of strap and pin to the center of the pocket TOP. Make sure your strap is NOT twisted, (Don’t ask…) and pin to the other side of bag as well.
Baste the strap to the bag. We will reinforce these stitches when we finish this edge of the bag.
NOw to attach the zipper… keep the bag inside out. Pin the zipper, right sides facing to the raw edge of the bag top. Stitch 1/4 inch from zipper edge.
Pin other side of zipper to other side of bag top. Stitch in place.
Turn the bag right side out, and top stitch along the edge of zipper with your matching thread. Stitch about 1/8 inch from the edge.
Now, believe it or not!!! it’s time to finish those last two edges of the bag! Pin the opening in place and stitch closed. It is wise to stitch with the zipper side up to anticipate the metal fixtures on the zipper (Again, don’t ask….)
It is a good idea to go back along the inner seams of the bag and finish them either with seam binding, or even a simple zig zag stitch in the seam allowance. This will improve the durability of your bag and it will hold up better if laundering is required. 🙂
One ridiculously cute diaper bag to carry baby’s every need! Bag is large finishing at 16 X 8 X 8 inches. Shoulder strap has a 17 inch drop.
A Quilty Kind of Girl
|One Frolic Jelly Roll
1.5 yard of wild rose for sashing, inner border, and binding
3/4 yard of sky floral print for outer border
3 yards backing fabric
Begin by separating your jelly strips into their different colorways.
|Group your fabrics in sets of three. Choose fabrics with good contrast, so they won’t blend into each other.|
|This is an example of poor contrast. Although the background fabric is different, the print will make these fabrics blend into each other. Choose different scales of print to really show the contrast.|
|These are my fabrics matched up in 12 sets of three. Once I have cut fabric for the first 12 blocks, I mix up my strips and choose fabrics for 8 more blocks. I want a total of 20 blocks for this quilt.|
|From your first set of three fabrics, do a pretend layout of the three fabrics to decide how you want to place them.|
|Once you decide which fabric will be the center mini pinwheel, cut four squares from this strip measuring 2.5 X 2.5 inches.|
|The other two fabrics from each set of three will be cut 2.5 X 4.5 inches.|
|This is the second fabric to be cut 2.5 X 4.5 inches.|
|Total cuts for a single block:
4 squares fabric one – 2.5 X 2.5 inches
4 rectangles fabric two – 4.5 X 2.5 inches
4 rectangles fabric three – 4.5 X 2.5 inches
|Time to put a block together!
Mark a diagonal line on the wrong side of all four 2.5 inch squares.
(Now don’t get confused! I’ve gone and switched fabric on you here… you’ll learn why in a sec…)
|Place the 2.5 inch squares, right sides facing, at one end of the rectangles. Make sure the outer edges are lined up. CHECK THE DIRECTION OF YOUR DIAGONAL LINE!! It will matter! (Any guesses about where my first fabrics went? In the OOPS pile!) Make sure the diagonal line matches the picture shown.|
|Sew directly on the marked line.(Keep the square on top so you can see where you need to sew!)|
|Once you have sewn the patches, trim the outer triangle, leaving a quarter inch. DO NOT cut to the inside of the stitching line!|
|Press all four of the seams towards the corner triangles.|
|Match each of the patches with the third fabric as shown. Sew together, with right sides facing.|
|Place the patches under your needle with the rectangle on the bottom. It is easier to manage the diagonal seam when it is on top. Press seams towards the rectangle.|
|Pair two of the patches and sew together as shown, to create a top and bottom row. Press the top center seam to the right. Press the bottom center seam to the left.|
|Pin the center seam and sew the two rows together. Press this final center seam open. Carry on making blocks until you have 20. Square your blocks to measure 8.5 inches by 8.5 inches.|
|Once you have all 20 blocks, play with the layout until you like the balance of colors. Oops! Are there only 19 blocks there? Wonder what happened to that last one… 😉|
|You will need 15 vertical sashing strips, each measuring 8.5 inches by 2.5 inches.|
|Sew your rows together with the sashing strips between the blocks. Press seams towards the sashing strips.|
|You will need to cut 6 vertical sashing strips measuring 38.5 inches by 2.5 inches. Set two aside for now.|
|Sew the five rows together with a horizontal sashing strip between. NOTE: This quilt is turned (just to confuse you of course!) So the “horizontal” strips are actually vertical in this pic.|
|Remember the sashing strips we set aside earlier? Grab them now! You will also need to cut 3 more sashing strips 2.5 inches by WOF. Sew all 3 together and cut TWO strips measuring 48.5 inches by 2.5 inches. Cut two pieces of jumbo rick rack 39.5 inches long. (No that is not a typo. Cut your rick rack a smidge longer. It will be easier this way.) Cut two more pieces of rick rack 49.5 inches long. Center the rick rack over your sashing strips and pin in place. Stitch to the sashing.|
|I chose to stitch on each side of the rick rack to really hold it down. You could also stitch straight up the center, which would allow the rick rack to be kind of floppy, especially after washing. This can be fun for baby to play with . 🙂|
|Once you have attached the rick rack to the sashing pieces, you can sew the 48.5 inch sashings to the long sides of the quilt. Cut 4 cornerstones 2.5 inches by 2.5 inches and attach to the ends of the 38.5 inch sashing strips. Attach the short sashings to the short sides of the quilt.|
|From the border fabric, cut 5 strips, 4.5 inches wide. Trim 2 strips to 4.5 inches by 38.5 inches. Attach to the top and bottom of quilt top. Sew the remaining 3 strips together. From this super long strip, cut TWO strips measuring 4.5 inches by 60 inches. Attach these two border strips to the left and right sides of the quilt top. Your quilt should finish at 50 inches by 60 inches.|
|Quilt as you like….|
|and add a baby to complete!|
Hi Moda Bake Shop Fans!
I’m Bradie Sparrow from QuiltCetera.Com. I am thrilled to share this fun reversible purse recipe with you today. I love to make these purses with bright, funky fabrics, and this time I chose the new Moda line Botany, designed by Lauren and Jessi Jung. Say hello to my oldest of 8 children. My beautiful daughter Landen Emily modeling this cute little purse for us. Now, let’s get on with the show!
One Charm Pack of Botany Fabric – or any Moda charm pack with minimum 36 squares.
Batting : 2 pieces measuring aprox. 15 X 10.5 inches for body of purse
and 2 pieces 1 1/4 inch X 26.5 inches for purse handles.
2 Large Buttons to match fabric
Start by separating your charms into their different color ways. Choose two colors for the outside of your bag, and another two colors for the inside. As you can see, The Boss (AKA Teenaged owner of said bag) chose pink and green for one side, and brown with teal for the other side.
To Make the Sides of the Bag:
You will need 12 squares for the inside and 12 for the outside. Sew them together in groups of 6 as shown in the pictured layout.
Take one panel of 6 (pink/green shown) and stitch it onto your 10.5 inch X 15 inch piece of batting. Stitch about 1/8 inch away from outer edge of fabric so your stitches will be hidden in the seam allownace later. Trim away the excess batting.
Repeat for one brown and teal panel.
To shape the top of your bag:
Flip the second pink/green panel (without batting) to it’s wrong side. Make the following marks in the two outside squares of the top row. Mark a line 2.5 inches from the side of the square , and another line 2.5 inches from the top of the square. Draw a diagonal line between the two marks. Mark another small line 1/4 inch below the first mark on the side.
Use the same panel for the next step.
To shape the bottom of the bag:
Make the following marks in the two outside squares of the bottom row. Mark a line 2.5 inches from the side of the square , and another line 2.5 inches from the bottom of the square. This marks the beginning and end of the curve to shape the bottom of the bag.
Use a CD or DVD to draw the curve. This will be your cutting line. When you stitch the curve, it will be inside this drawn line. Repeat both shaping steps to mark the brown/teal panel.
To attach the bottom of two panels together:
Place your first pink/green panel, batting side down on your table. Place the second, with the markings, right side down on top of first panel. Pin the sides first at the small 1/4 inch mark. Pin your seams to make them match up nicely.
Pin the sides of the middle square in the bottom row (shown with 2 white flower head pins in picture above). This square needs to remain unstitched. You will turn the purse right side out through this hole in a later step. Begin stitching at the mark 1/4 inch below the diagonal line on the right side of the bag, carefully rounding the corners as you come to them. Remember not to stitch the middle square! (This is only for one ‘pouch’. When you attach the brown/green panels to each other, you WILL stitch the middle square.) Finish stitching 1/4 below the diagonal line on the other side of the bag. Trim the rounded corners and press seams open.
Repeat for the brown/teal panels.
To Attach the two pouches:
Turn the brown/teal pouch inside out (right side of fabric facing inwards) with batting facing the table surface. Turn the pink/green bag right side facing out with batting layer closest to you. Ensure you don’t have both batting layers on one side of the bag.
Begin pinning the top two layers together to attach the top of the two pouches. You will be pinning a pink/green to a brown/teal.
First pin the top outer corners to align the pieces. Next pin the seams. Lastly pin the bottom of the two diagonal lines. Repeat for the other side of both pouches. Begin stitching on the bottom a diagonal line. The seam allowance will be outside of this diagonal stitching line. Don’t worry about the small gap left open, we’ll close that up real soon. Stitch around the entire top of the bag ending at the bottom of the opposite diagonal line.
Repeat for pinning and stitching the other side of the bag.
Pull the inside bag out of the outer bag. Lay bag flat and trim top corners 1/4 outside of the stitching line. Make sure no part of the bag is under the area being trimmed.
(Don’t ask me why I am stressing this point!)
Now back to that little gap on both sides of the bag. Place a pin at the bottom of the diagonal line and stitch between the pin and the 1/4 inch mark only. You will need to stitch this gap twice on each side of the bag.
In the picture, I am showing you how the batting on the back is pointing to the left, and the batting in the front points to the right. Next stitch down the side of the bag to close the left over space.
This finishes the construction of the bag!
Now for the little details….
Remember the hole we left open in the middle square of the bag? Pull the entire bag out through that hole and arrange one bag inside the other.
Press the top of the bag really well, reaching inside to push out the corners as needed.
Stitch the opening closed. I stitched mine by machine (so it wasn’t flopping around) then removed the stitches after and finished it by hand.
Choose a thread you like for top stitching around the top of the bag.
See where the blue flower head pin is? This is where you should start and stop your stitching, You can back stitch here and it will be hidden by the purse straps.
Making the straps:
Choose 6 charm squares to match the brown/teal side of the bag. Sew them together in one long strip to measure 5 inch wides by 27.5 inches. Fold in half and cut the strip in half to finish with 2 strips measuring 2.5 by 27.5 inches.
Repeat with another 6 charm squares for the pink/green side of the bag.
Press the strap in half lengthwise.
Place the long batting strips inside the strap and close the folds over the batting.
Fold up the short end and stitch it in place to finish the ends.
Repeat with the straps to match the pink/green side of bag.
Do Not place batting inside the second set of straps.
Lay the straps out on top of each other, with folds facing each other. Pin together and top stitch down the sides leaving the last 5 inches unstitched. This is how you will attach the straps to the purse.
Pin the straps onto the purse matching the proper colors. The bottom of the strap should be 3.5 inches from the top of the bag, and the strap should be centered over the seam. Arrange the other color of strap onto the inside of the purse and pin in place also. I push a pin through at the corners to make sure bath starps are in the same place, inside and out. You will stitch both straps on at the same time.
The photo on the right shows the straps after stitching to the purse.
We are sooooo close now! Make the strap closure:
Take one last charm square and cut in half. Sew the two pieces together to finish with a long piece 2.5 inches by 9.5 inches.
Press the short edges under, and stitch in place. Fold strap in half, open up and fold outer sides into middle, just like we did with the purse strap. Finally, fold the whole strap in half, to finish approx 9.25 inches by 5/8 inch.
Fold the strap as shown in picture and stitch across to hold in place. Center the strap on the purse 1.5 inches from the top of the bag. Pin in place, stitch, add a couple of buttons,and voila! You have a new bright and funky reversible purse.
And there you have it… A reversible one charm pack purse! I look forward to reading your thoughts and comments. Have fun!