Redbird and Berries Mini Quilt


Greetings Moda Bake Shop readers and Happy New Year!   It’s Karen from Karen’s Quilts, Crows and Cardinals Blog excited to share the “Redbird and Berries” mini-quilt with you!

Oh so luscious Mini Charms of Little Black Dress 2 by BasicGrey were used for the border of this cute little wall hanging while scrumptious coordinating Grunge fabrics were used for the background and applique pieces.

The recipe includes a bit of piecing, applique, free motion and straight line quilting.  You’ll also learn to make Perfect Circle berries and bias stems.   I hope you find the variety intriguing because when you’re done the mini quilt will *Charm* all who see it!

Quilt Border:

  • 3 or 4 Mini Charm Packs of Little Black Dress 2 by BasicGrey  (88 2.5″ fabric pieces)

Applique Background:

  • 14.5″ by 22.5″ Grunge Basics Cream (30150-160) by BasicGrey

Applique Pieces:

  • 1 Fat Quarter Grunge Basics Grey Couture (30150-163) by BasicGrey for Stems
  • Fat Eighth or Scraps of Grunge Basics Kissing Booth Cherry Cordial (30150-167) or Grunge Red (30150-151) by BasicGrey for Bird and/or Berries
  • Scraps of Black and Reddish Orange Fabric for Bird Mask and Beak – I used Moda Black and Grunge Radish

Batting/Backing/Binding

  • 27″ by 35″ piece of fabric for backing
  • 27″ by 35″ batting
  • 1/4 yard of  fabric for binding
  • Perfect Circles or heat resistant template plastic or thin cardboard for berries
  • Freezer Paper or Template Plastic for making applique templates
  • Clover Bias Tape Maker – Size 6 (1/4″) for tree stems
  • Spray Starch or Sizing for Berries
  • Aurifil Mako 50 Wt – Color 2325 for Piecing and Border Quilting
  • Aurifil Mako 50 Wt – Color 2000 Quilting Background
  • Aurifil Mako 50 Wt – Color 2460 for Red Applique
  • Aurifil Mako 50 Wt – Color 2605 for Gray Stem Applique 

Pre-cut Basics:  

Before working with Mini Charms it’s helpful to run a lint brush over the edges.  This will reduce the amount of “little fuzzies” adorning your workspace 😉

Also, when working with any of the Moda Pre-cut fabrics always treat the outer most tip of the pinking as the edge.  This is especially important when piecing – the accuracy of your piecing depends on it.

For the piecing on this project you’ll need to know exactly where your 1/4 seam mark is on your sewing foot.  The walking foot below is clearly marked — I LOVE using it for accurate piecing.  

Measuring Seam Allowance Accuracy:

A great way to test the accuracy of a scant 1/4 inch seam allowance is by sewing three mini charms together.  Press to set the seams, press the seams to one side, flip over and measure. The middle charm should measure exactly 2 inches wide.  If not, adjust your seam allowance until it does.

Now lets get started with our recipe:

Step 1:  Layout/Design the border:

Layout your mini charms in a manner which is pleasing to YOUR eye.  Each quadrant of the border will be 11 charms high by 2 charms wide for a total of 22 charms in each of the 4 quadrants.   The complete border will use 88 charms.

I’m one of those CRAZY symmetrical types so a scrappy layout wasn’t in the cards for me.  Instead I designed one quadrant at a time, alternating light and dark pieces and making the opposite quadrant a diagonal mirror image.  Checkout the picture below.  I love the checkerboard effect!

To duplicate the layout above you will need 4 Mini Charms packs.  If you would rather go scrappy or change the layout you can get away with using 2 Mini Charm packs and cutting 4 mini charm pieces from one of your grunge fabrics 😉  Overall you’ll need 88 2.5″ square pieces of fabric for the border.

Step 2:  Sew a Border Quadrant (for each of the 4 quadrants):

Once you’ve finalized your border layout/design, pick one quadrant and sew the pairs together – chain stitching all 11 pair of your light/dark fabric.  Chain piecing allows you to quickly sew the 11 pair without cutting your thread.  Once you’ve chain stitched the 11 pair are all attached in the correct order.

When finished chain piecing 11 pair of a quadrant, remove them from your machine and lay them (still connected to one another) on your ironing space with the darker fabrics facing up.  This allows you to “set” your seam by pressing them flat, and then pressing again in the desired direction – in this case it’s best to press toward the dark fabric.

On a checkerboard layout, pressing toward the dark will enable you to nest your seams when you sew your pairs into 4 x 2 and then into 8 x 2’s and so on.  Nesting your seams allows for more accurate intersections.

Clip the threads attached to the first 2 pair and prepare to sew 2 – 2×2’s into a 4 patch.
Nest the seams for accurate alignment, pin and sew.  Repeat this effort until you’ve created an 11 x 2 quadrant of your border.

If you are following a light/dark arrangement (checkerboard) with a pattern to your layout (like I did), I suggest stopping and spot checking your order as you sew ; )  I ALWAYS take a picture of the layout before beginning to sew.  Use the picture to be sure you are sewing your pairs and your 11×2 sections together in the desired arrangement.

Once you have a quadrant that is 11 long by 2 wide,  press to set the seams, and then press all the seams of a quadrant in the same direction.  For ease of attaching to the background fabric you can press this way:

  • right side border should be pressed downward
  • left side border pressed upward
  • bottom border pressed to the left
  • top border pressed to the right.  

Each of the 4 quadrants should measure 22.5 inches long and 4.5 inches wide.

Once all 4 quadrants are prepared, it’s time to put it all together!

Step 3: Cut background fabric and attach borders:

Using Grunge Cream cut a piece of background fabric 14.5″ by 22.5″.

Attach the side borders to the background fabric first, press to set the seams, then press the seams toward the border.

Next attach the top and bottom borders, setting the seams and pressing them toward the border.  You only have two seams to match on this border — so simple 😉

Woohoo!  Now your top is ready for the applique. The top should measure 22.5 inches wide by 30.5 inches long.

Applique:

The applique on the sample was completed by hand, but you can use your favorite applique method to complete yours.  The stems, berries and bird can be done with two sided fusible, raw edge machine applique, or any other applique method.  The sample was completed with bias stems, perfect circle berries, and a needle turn applique Redbird.  You can learn more about Needle Turn applique by visiting the “Teardrops of Love” tutorial on my blog.

Applique Prep 1 – Prepare Strips for Bias Stems:

You will need 10 or so 1/2 inch bias strips of Grunge Gray Couture.  If you’ve never made a bias strip before, don’t worry — just follow these simple steps:

  • Start with a fat quarter of Grunge Grey Couture
  • Iron your fabric – cut a straight edge if there isn’t one already.
  • Most rotary rulers include a 45 degree angle mark on them – find it on your ruler.
  • Lay the 45 degree angle mark on the selvage edge of your fabric.  This will align the cut edge of your ruler on a 45 degree angle. 
  •  Use a rotary cutter and cut a straight edge on the bias (the diagonal above).
  • Gently slide your ruler over to the 1/2″ mark (with the 45 degree line still on the selvage) and cut a 1/2 inch strip.
  • Repeat this process until you have 10 or more 1/2″ strips cut on the bias.

Note: Use Caution when handling the strips — when fabric is cut on the bias it will easily stretch.

Applique Prep 2 – Make Bias Stems:

  • Using the Clover #6 – 1/4″ Bias Tape Maker (BTM) feed one end of your 1/2″ bias strip through the wide end of the BTM with fabric right side up.  Use a pin to advance the fabric through the BTM to the narrow end if necessary.  Leave about 1/2″ of the strip showing on the narrow end.
  • Position your iron so the side of the iron is against the narrow end of the BTM.
  • Note: The BTM instructions say to move the tool with the hand that is not ironing — but I prefer to use the iron to move the tool.
  • The iron should be set on a “Cotton” heat with steam and a fair amount of pressure should be applied as you glide the iron over the fabric to make the bias stem.  Once you start pressing to the left  – keep going – don’t stop mid strip. 
  • Some would suggest you use a light starch on the fabric before beginning to make the tape — feel free to do so – it makes the bias tape hold its shape. 

Completed bias stems:

Applique Prep 3 – Make Berries:

Using Karen Kay Buckley’s Perfect Circles templates choose the 1/2 inch diameter template.  If you don’t own Perfect Circles, use the heavy piece of cardboard that backed your Mini Charm pack to cut a template.  

  • Cut 65-75 1″ circles for berries — I used a variety of fabrics, including Red Grunge, Moda Marbles and some of the extra Little Black Dress mini charms. Use a US Quarter coin to cut 1″ circles if necessary.
  • Once the 1 inch circles are cut , hand sew a running stitch around the perimeter of the fabric circles – leaving approximately a 6″ tail of thread attached to the fabric circle. Do not knot the thread after you’ve finished the running stitch.
  • Place a Perfect Circle template in the center of the fabric.  
  • Pull the thread taut around the Perfect Circle, drawing the fabric tight around the template.
  • Place the unit right side down on the ironing surface, spray a bit of starch or sizing on the back side of the drawn fabric and place a medium heat, dry iron on the piece(s) until the berry is completely dry (a minute or two depending on how much spray starch you use).
  • Remove the iron, allow the berry and template to cool, then peel the edge of the fabric back to  remove the  template.  
  • Reshape the circle by pulling the thread taut again and press once more to set the circle.

A collection of berries: The sample contained about 75 berries and included some berries made from the leftover Little Black Dress 2 mini-charms (not shown below).

Applique Step 4  – Layout and Attach Stems to Background:

Layout stems in a manner which is pleasing to your eye.  If you would like your completed work to look like the sample, use the “Final Applique Layout” picture (below) to arrange the stems and berries.

I use pins to secure the applique stems to the background prior to stitching.  This method allows the stem to float for re-arranging.  You can also baste or glue baste the stems in place for stitching.

Once arranged, use an invisible stitch (similar to the stitch used for needle turn applique) to attach the stems to the background.   You can see more about applique stitch here.

A couple of tips when working with stems:

  • When stems are made on the bias they are very flexible – so they curve easily.  Just pin or glue or baste in the position you like.
  • To hide a raw edge tip of a stem fold the end under once and secure when you sew the stem.
  • Create a fork in your stems by tucking the end of a stem under another section of stem or by folding a long piece of stem in two.
  • You don’t need stems that are so long they are unmanageable.  Just put one stem end against the other and sew — place a berry on it to cover the intersection if you like. 

Attach your stems to the background fabric by hand or machine.  Again, you can learn more about needle turn applique on the “Teardrops of Love” tutorial on my blog.

Applique Step 5 – Layout and Attach Berries and Bird:

Berries or Redbird first?  The choice is yours.  I did a few berries and then the Redbird and finished up with Berries.

Arrange and pin some berries in place.  I limited the number pinned at one time so my threads were not getting caught on the applique pins. 

Stitch the berries by hand or machine.  If stitching by hand use the same “invisible” stitch used on the stems and used for most needle turn applique.

Applique  – Prepare and Applique the Redbird:

Note: The Redbird applique template can be found in the “Printer Friendly” version of this recipe.

In the sample, Needle Turn applique was used for the Redbird, his mask, and beak – but any method can be used to complete this step.  I won’t go into Needle Turn Applique techniques here but please visit my blog and/or leave me questions below if you run into trouble completing the bird.  I do have pictures of each applique step and would be happy to share them on my blog if it would be helpful.  Please let me know.

Normally, to prepare applique shapes, I would print the applique templates directly onto the dull side of a piece of freezer paper; however, for this recipe I decided to use template plastic so I could fussy cut the Redbird from the beautiful Grunge fabric. If you’re using turned applique, trace the bird onto the fabric with any of the marking tools identified here and cut out with an 1/8″ plus seam allowance.

Did I mention how much I LOVE Grunge?  – OR – how well it goes with the Little Black Dress 2 fabric line?   It really is a beautiful line of fabric.  No kidding!!

Next applique the bird to the background.  Stitch the body first, then the mask, and lastly the beak.

If you haven’t done so already, finish attaching all of your beautiful berries to the background. Each berry adds dimension to the overall design.  I didn’t fret much about making my berries perfect – because in real life they are not.  The sample berries were stitched by hand.

Final Applique Layout:

Note: Often when you applique a quilt top, the overall dimension gets smaller.  The applique stitching tends to pull in the sides of a quilt top.  No need for concern — the quilting will probably shrink it more!

Prepare for Quilting:

If you are unfamiliar with the steps necessary to prepare a top for quilting, there are detailed instructions specified in the Family Tree Pillow Recipe here.

For the sample I used two layers of batting to provide both loft and stability.  One layer of 100% Wool Batting and one Layer of Warm and Natural Cotton batting.

I also pieced the back for this particular quilt.  The backing measured 27″ x 35″.

I started quilting by straight line stitching around the perimeter of the background fabric and again around the perimeter of the first rows of charms.  I almost always “stitch in the ditch” to stabilize the quilt before starting to Free Motion Quilt.

For the background quilting I used Aurifil Mako 50 Wt Cotton in Color #2000.  This thread glides through my Janome and I never get thread breaks.  The color matches the Grunge Creme perfectly!

Always be sure to match your top and bobbin threads when Free Motion Quilting.  So we are now echo quilting around each applique piece (removing pins as necessary).  Once done repeat the echo quilting around all applique and stems.  In hindsight I wish I had echo quilted one more time before starting my background quilting.  As you can see below, I quilted in some mock berries to add interest.

To complete the background quilting I used a “McTavishing” like design – a variety described as “Nifty Little S’s” shared by Wendy Sheppard of Ivory Spring Blog. This design is so forgiving and allows you to move around the applique pieces with ease.

Once the background quilting was completed I added some straight line quilting (with a walking foot) on the mini-charms.  I used a walking foot as a width guide and quilted every 1/2 inch around the perimeter of the background.  The straight line stitching shows up best on the back of the quilt.  For this quilting I used Aurifil Mako 50Wt Cotton in Color #2325.  Again, I just love the way the Aurifil quilts – I couldn’t be happier with this thread!

Below is another picture that shows the pretty straight line quilting on the charms.

When finished quilting, the sample “squared” to 21.5″ wide by 29.5″ long.  The applique and dense quilting ate up 1 inch each of the width and length.

The next step is to prepare hanging sleeves and binding as desired.  There is a great Moda Basics Tutorial for Binding here.

The sample binding was completed using a 2.25″ wide binding (folded) and a 3/8″ seam allowance to sew it on the front and hand stitch it to the back.  I also added two hanging sleeves (either side of the middle) using two 5.5″ by 8.5 inch pieces of fabric.

If you’ve made it to this point of the tutorial congratulations!   I hope you’ve enjoyed learning about bias stems, Perfect Circles, applique and some free motion quilting.

Working with these methods opens a new door to the world of quilting doesn’t it ?    It’s sew much fun!

One 21.5″ x 29.5″ Wall Hanging or Table Topper or Mini Quilt.

If you have questions, leave them in the comments below — I’ll be happy to answer them.

Please be sure to swing by my blog and check out my tutorials, lessons learned and completed projects.   I would love to have you join the fun and give me feedback on this recipe.

I look forward to seeing you there!

Karen Miller
{www.karensquiltscrowscardinals.blogspot.com}

Family Tree Quilted Pillow


Greetings, Moda Bake Shop readers.  My name is Karen Miller, and I’m a new Chef here at the Bake Shop!  I live in the beautiful Finger Lakes Region of Upstate New York, USA, and I blog about all things Quilty at Karen’s Quilts, Crows and Cardinals.  Stop by and check out my projects, tutorials, and other happenings.

Today I’m excited to share a Quilted Envelope Pillow recipe using Deb Strain’s “Family Tree” fabric.

With its beautiful colorways, “Family Tree” is perfect for fall – AND – spring projects!  As you can see from my Blog, I’m addicted to birds – so the Family Tree birds and paisley along with some awesome dimensional cuts have me sold on this line…  I’m sure you will LOVE IT too!

Several techniques were used to complete the quilted pillow including machine piecing, applique, fussy cutting, and free motion quilting.  Both cotton and wool fabric were used in this sample — I hope you enjoy the variety.

The finished pillow fits a 20″ x 20″ pillow insert and has a cute little 2″ flange around the outside!

Pillow Top, Envelope Back and Misc Applique Pieces:

    • 1 Jelly Roll Family Tree #19640JR

Applique Background:

    • 1 Fat Quarter Family Tree Cream #19649 11

Applique Tree:

    • 1 7″ x 10″ piece Moda Marble Chocolate #6851

Other:

    • 28″ square inexpensive cotton fabric for quilted pillow backing
    • 28″ square piece of batting (I used Hobbs Poly)
    • 20″ square Pillow Form

Optional choices:

  • For Applique Tree:  7″ x 10″ piece Moda Wool Dark Brown #810-58
  • For Applique Birds:  5″ x 5″ scrap of Moda Wool Red #1700-72
  • Quilter’s Freezer Paper
  • DMC #8 Pearl Cotton Thread in Red & Brown for wool applique
  • Aurifil Mako 50/2 in Color #2000 1GN for quilting
  • Aurifil Mako 50/2 in Color #2845 1GN & #2600 ICN for top stitching

 

Please review all instructions before getting started. 

Unless otherwise indicated, all piecing was completed using a scant 1/4 inch seam allowance.

 

Pillow Top Piecing:

Applique Background: Cut one 13″ x 13″ square using Family Tree Cream or any other neutral Moda fabric.

Pieced Pillow Top : From your Jelly Roll choose 5 to 10 different strips for the pillow top – The sample was completed using 7 different fabric strips and alternating lighter/darker fabrics in the block.


Cutting and Piecing Pillow Top:  Using the “Piecing and Cutting” diagram below, cut strip sizes and sew to the cream applique background.  Note:  The diagram indicates the order in which you piece AND the size of the cut piece.

Example:   #1 – 13″ represents the first piece you sew to the background and it is cut 13 inches long.

Piecing and Cutting Diagram – # indicates the order and ” indicate size to cut

Note:  Above pieces #9, #10, #11 and #12 were sewn to the pillow top after I completed the applique.  You can sew them on at any time.

Cutting Tip:   When you’re cutting pieces that are longer than 10 or 12 inches consider this approach:

Take 1/2 of the desired size as your target, fold your fabric to the target size plus a bit of overlap. Find the target size mark on your ruler and place it on the fabric fold. Trim the opposite end.

This method allows you to remove the selvage while cutting the desired strip size and helps avoid LONG strip and ruler alignment.

Now, back to the pillow top — be sure to press your seams toward the outside of the pillow after each strip is sewn.  I was taught to first press the seam flat before pressing it in the desired direction.  The seams come out beautifully using this method.

Now that you’ve completed most or all of the piecing on the pillow top it’s time to applique!

 

Pillow Top Applique: 

The applique portion of the pillow allows for great flexibility!


In the completed sample I used Moda Wool for the tree and birds and attached them to the background with a whipstitch (sometimes referred to as an overhand stitch).  The birds were stuffed to give them dimension.   Needle turn applique method was used for the tree leaves.  In all cases, basting was done with applique pins.

If you would rather not use the sample methods, there are many applique options available including raw or turned edge applique, fused or glued, with hand or machine stitching.  If you have any questions on any particular method, leave a comment here or on my blog, and I would be happy to give you feedback.  Also, check out the great Moda Bake Shop Basics tutorials on Machine Applique and Turned Edge Machine Applique.

Tree above in Moda Marble — Yummy !

Tree & Birds:

If you are using wool and not fusing it down, then you’ll want to have Quilter’s Freezer Paper on hand.  If you don’t have Quilters Freezer paper sheets, you can use rolled freezer paper from your kitchen drawer 😉

Using the tree template below, trace the tree design to the dull or paper side of the freezer paper.

Tree Template

With a dry iron set on **medium heat, press your freezer paper to the right side of the wool.
**Use care not to burn and/or discolor your wool.

Cut along the drawn line.  Remove the freezer paper.

Use applique pins to secure the tree to the background fabric, then use Pearl Cotton thread to stitch using a Whipstitch.


Finished Tree:

Once your tree is stitched down, use the same techniques to cut and stitch your birds.

Bird layout:

Before stitching the birds to the background you can (optionally) add some dimension by stuffing them with batting.

 

Once the birds are stitched to the background, give them each a wing.  I fussy cut paisley wings using clear template plastic to help find the perfect fussy cut.  You’ll notice that I auditioned several different fabrics for wings — there are many great choices.  Choose what looks good to your eye and attach using your favorite applique method.

After stitching the tree, birds, and bird wings to the background, choose several strips from the jelly roll and fussy cut leaves to complete the tree.  The sample leaves were completed using needle turn applique, but use your favorite applique method.  For a fast and easy solution consider raw edge applique using fusible web to secure and machine top stitch for added interest.

Once the applique is completed, add the 4 outside border pieces (pieces #9 through #12 from the Piecing and Cutting Diagram above).

Your unquilted pillow top should measure appx 24 3/4 inches square.

 

Prepare for Pillow Top Quilting:

In the sample, only the pillow top was quilted. 

Prepare the quilt sandwich on a table top — the pillow size is perfect because nothing drapes over the edges of the table!

First, lay out your backing fabric — remember this fabric will not show once your envelope pillow is completed, so use a less expensive muslin or a light colored cotton fabric.

Now secure the backing fabric to the table with tape, pulling it taut, but using care not to stretch your fibers – you don’t want it to spring back when the tape is removed.

Next, position and smooth batting over the backing, secure it with tape, remembering not to pull too tight.

 

Lastly, position and smooth the pillow top right side up on the batting, always smoothing from the center out and securing as you smooth.

Pin basting is complete.

I use quilting safety pins to baste my quilt tops, but there are other methods including spray basting and basting with straight pins and soft tips.

 

Quilt the Pillow Top:

Using matching thread and a walking foot, stitch in the ditches along the strip pieces to stabilize the pillow top before Free Motion Quilting the applique area.

Start at the edge of the applique background and work your way outward – stitching in the ditch.

Also, baste stitch around the outside perimeter of the pillow top.

Free Motion Quilt the applique area:

Free motion quilting is fun and it allows you to enjoy your piece without the wait of someone else doing your quilting for you.   This pillow top is a perfect place to practice free motion quilting..  Here are some basics:

Use a top and bobbin thread that match the applique background, put your darning foot on, and drop the feed dogs on your machine.  For ease of movement, use a Supreme Slider on your machine bed.  Check out my blog in the next few weeks for more “Free Motion Quilting Basics”.

Start by echo stitching around each applique piece.   I used Aurifil Mako 50/2 in Color #2000 thread to quilt the applique area – the color matched perfectly!


After you’ve echo stitched the applique, quilt any design you like to fill in the background.  The more densely you quilt, the more your applique pieces will POP!

The sample was quilted using a combination of “McTavishing”, circles, and swirls, which all added movement to the piece. 

Quilt the Pillow Top Strips:

Once you have finished quilting the applique area, quilt the pieced strips with a top stitch.  I used a 2.70 stitch length on my machine.  Use a thread color that complements the fabric.

Square Up the Pillow Top:

Depending on the density of your quilting you may have to make some fine adjustments to square up the pillow top.   On the sample piece the right side was simple and squared up nicely.

However, because of the dense quilting in the lower left corner of the sample, some “fine adjustments” aka “fudging it” were made on the left and bottom edges.  You can see from the diagram below that the “fine adjustment” included trimming outside of the top fabric, resulting in only the batting and backing being square.

“Squaring up” which does not cut into the top fabric is not a problem; however, it may require you to increase the seam allowance when the pillow layers are stitched together.   This was the case with the sample pillow.

The sample piece pillow top squared up at 24.25″.

Important:  The above measurement is necessary to trim the envelope pieces.  The width of the envelope pieces will need to match the width of the pillow top (trimmed and squared).

For now, set your pillow top aside and prepare to piece the envelope back.

 

Pieced Envelope Back:

The envelope back requires two pieces:

  • One 19″ by 25″ envelope top (horizontal strips)
  • One 17″ by 25″ envelope bottom (vertical strips)

The sample was pieced using 13 of the remaining jelly roll strips.

To piece the scrappy back choose 13 WOF strips from the jelly roll.

Envelope fabric strips

Arrange the strips in a layout that is pleasing to your eye.

Sew the long sides of the 13 strips together.

When complete you should have a 42″ by 26.5″ rectangle.

From the rectangle, cut one 26″ by 26″ square, rotate it and trim it to 19″ by 24.25″ (same as the width of pillow top once squared up) with the strips running horizontally.  This is the envelope top.

Use the remaining 17″ by 26″ piece for the bottom of the envelope.  Trim to 17″ by 24.25″ (same as the width of pillow top once squared up).  These strips run vertically.

Fold and topstitch one wide edge of the envelope top and one wide edge of the envelope bottom.


Now you’re ready to layer, pin and sew your pillow layers together!

Complete the Pillow:

Be sure all three pieces (Pillow Top, Envelope Top and Envelope Bottom) are the same width.  The sample measured 24.25″ wide.

Begin by positioning the pillow top, right side up on a table.

Add the envelope top, right side down on the pillow top.  Align the raw edges at the top, left, and right. Pin.  The envelope top will not cover the entire pillow – align it at the top edge.

Lastly, add the envelope bottom, right side down over the bottom portion of the pillow top.  Align raw edges at the bottom, left, and right. Pin.  The envelope bottom will not cover the entire pillow top but it will overlap the envelope top by about 6″.

Using your walking foot sew around the entire outside of the pillow layers using a 1/2 inch seam allowance. The envelope opening will allow you to turn right side out.

Trim all 4 corners to reduce bulk.  Gently press the seams open.

Next, turn the pillow right side out through the envelope.  Once right side out, reach inside to push out the corners.  If necessary, from the right side, use a pin to pull the corner fabric out.

Almost done !

Press around the outside edges of the completed pillow.

Sew the Flange

The flange is made by stitching in the ditch, through all layers, as designated by “A” in the diagram below.  This makes the pillow the correct size to fit a 20″ x 20″ pillow form.

To give the pillow a more finished look, topstitch around the inner and outer edges of the outside strips as designated with “B” below.

Below is a close up of the top stitching around the flange:

Whew – that was fun!

Now you have a beautiful quilted pillow with flange that you can use for fall or spring decorating.

Are you ready to get started ?

Check out the awesome price on the Family Tree Jelly roll at Cindy’s Sew It Is!

Completed Front and Back:

One 22″ x 22″ Quilted Envelope Pillow with a 2″ Flange — and plenty of Jelly Roll strips leftover for an accent pillow!!

If you have questions, leave them in the comments below — I’ll be happy to answer them.

Also, I would love to have you jump on over to my blog and say hello.

There are some neat posts about Wool Applique here and here, and if you’re interested in learning more about Needle Turn Applique or Free Motion Quilting, stop by in November when I’ll post some basic tutorials on these topics. 

I look forward to seeing you there!

Karen Miller
{www.karensquiltscrowscardinals.blogspot.com}