Main Squeeze Quilt

Hello Moda Bake Shop readers! I am a new chef here, and I am honored to be a part of the Bake Shop. I blog at Live. Love. Create. and love bright, bold colors and modern designs. My quilt design was named Main Squeeze based on the X and O blocks it creates, like a “hugs and kisses” quilt. This pattern yields a large throw sized quilt, 60 by 80 inches when finished.

19 Fat Quarters of coordinating colors, I am using Sphere by Zen Chic.
3 1/4 yards solid or print for background fabric, I used Moda Bella white
3/4 yard solid or print for binding, I used Sphere by Zen Chic
4 1/4 yards coordinating solid or print for back, again I used Sphere by Zen Chic

Step 1:  From your background fabric, cut

12 – 10.5 inch squares
24 – 5.5 inch squares
48 – 6 inch squares
24 – 2.5 inch squares

Step 2:  For the rings, I labeled each ring with the letters A-J, then labeled the half-square triangles number 1 and the “gem” square number 2. The blocks I call “gem blocks” are the squares that just have the small triangle in the corner, as seen below.

So the first ring on the top left of the quilt will need two different fat quarters, fabrics labeled A1 and A2, and so on.  Each ring in my quilt was made up of the same color fabric in two different prints, and the amount needed is based on this layout. You can download a printout of this quilt, so you can test your color combinations here. I think it would also look great if the “gem” blocks are a contrasting color to give each ring some pop.

From your 19 fat quarters cut the following.

A1: (6) 6 inch squares            
A2: (2) 5.5 inch squares              
B1: (2) 6 inch squares
B2: (2) 5.5 inch squares
C1: (8) 6 inch squares
C2: (4) 5.5 inch squares
D2: (1) 5.5 inch square
E1: (8) 6 inch squares
E2: (4) 5.5 inch squares
F1: (2) 6 inch squares
F2: (2) 5.5 inch squares

G1: (6) 6 inch squares
G2: (2) 5.5 inch square
H1: (8) 6 inch squares
H2: (4) 5.5 inch squares
I1: (6) 6 inch squares
I2: (2) 5.5 inch squares
J1: (2) 6 inch squares
J2: (1) 5.5 inch square

To keep everything organized, I kept all my fabric and blocks labeled with sticky notes throughout the quilt top assembly, like in the picture below.

Step 3:  Sew your half-square triangle blocks. Take one 6-inch background piece and lightly draw a diagonal line from one corner to the opposite corner on the back. Repeat this for all your 6-inch background pieces.

Step 4:  With the right sides together, place one background piece and one A1 square together. Sew a scant 1/4 inch away from the line you drew on your background piece, and repeat on the other side. Your block should look like this when both sides are sewn.

Repeat for all remaining blocks labeled 1.

Step 5: Cut your half square triangles in half diagonally, on the line you initially drew. Press the seams to the darker print.

Step 6: Carefully trim your half square triangles to 5.5 inches. I line up my blocks with the seam on a 45 degree line on my mat, with a little bit of overhang on each side. I like to cut from all four sides to yield a more accurate cut, but be careful, you will not have much waste!

Step 7: Take your 2.5 inch background pieces and again lightly draw a line from one corner to the other.

Step 8: Place one 2.5 inch background piece in the corner of one 5.5 inch A2 block. Sew just off of the line, on the side closer to the corner.

Note: If you sew directly on the line you drew, when you press your block out you will lose a tiny amount from each block.

Step 9: Trim excess fabric 1/4 inch from the seam. You can also opt to leave this fabric on for extra stability. Press the seam toward the background fabric.

Repeat steps 8 and 9 for all of your blocks labeled 2.

Step 10: Grab four of your A1 half-square triangles (HSTs) and sew together to create a “V” block. I pressed the seams to the side, alternating the direction so I could nest the seams. Repeat with four B1 HSTs, and four C1 HSTs.

Step 11: Take one A2 block, one B2 block and two 5.5 inch background pieces and sew together to form a bow tie block, like the following diagram. I pressed seams to the side, alternating the direction so I could nest the seams. Repeat for one block with a B2 and C2 block and one block with a C2 and D2 block.

Step 12: Arrange your first row according to the diagram below and sew together. If you are pressing your seams in order to nest them together, you want to press the first seam (between your A1 “V” block and A2/B2 bow tie block) to the right.

Step 13: Repeat step 10 with four A1 HSTs and eight C1 HSTs. Layout your “V” blocks with your 10.5 inch background pieces according to the diagram below.

Step 14: Make one “V” block each using your A1, C1, and E1 HSTs. Make one A2/E2, one C2/E2, and one C2/F2 bow tie block. Arrange these blocks to form your third row according to the diagram below.

Step 15: Make two E1 “V” blocks and one F1 “V” block. Arrange them with your 10.5 inch background squares according to the following diagram.

Step 16: Make one “V” block each using your G1, E1, and H1 half-square triangles. Make one G2/E2, one E2/H2, and one F2/H2 bow tie block. Arrange these blocks to form your third row according to the diagram below.

Step 17: Make two H1 “V” blocks and one G1 “V” block. Arrange them with your 10.5 inch background squares according to the following diagram.

Step 18: Make one “V” block each using your G1, I1, and H1 half-square triangles. Make one G2/I2, one H2/I2, and one H2/J2 bow tie block. Arrange these blocks to form your third row according to the diagram below.

Step 19: Make two I1 “V” blocks and one J1 “V” block. Arrange them with your 10.5 inch background squares according to the following diagram.

Step 20: Pieces your rows together and press well. I like to sew two rows together at a time. So instead of sewing them on in order, adding each row individually, I sew rows 1 & 2 together, then rows 3 & 4, etc. Then I sew one of the double rows to another double row, and end by sewing the two halves of the quilt top together. I find that it is easier to sew the top together this way so you do not have all the weight of the quilt top when you sew each row on individually.

Step 21: Cut your background fabric into two 68 inch x width of fabric pieces. Remove the selvages and you should have two pieces that are 40-42 inches wide.

I also grabbed all of my scraps and pieced them together to make a 10 inch x 68 inch patchwork piece. Without this piece your back may not be large enough, since I like to have my quilt backs measure 8 inches larger than my tops on all sides. If you would prefer not to use scraps, you need to cut one more piece of background 10 inches by the width of fabric and substitute it for the scrap strip I show below.

Sew together your back according to the diagram below.

Step 22: Cut a piece of batting 64 inches x 84 inches and baste your quilt together. Quilt as desired. I straight line quilted my rings in alternating directions, like a volleyball.

Step 23: Bind and finish your quilt. You will need 290 inches of binding for the quilt. I cut 7 fabric strips that measured 2.5 inch by the width of fabric.

One generous size throw quilt, measuring 60 by 80 inches to snuggle under.

Thank you so much to Moda for letting me share my quilt! I would love to see any of your creations from this tutorial in the Moda Bake Shop Flickr group. Thank you for stopping by!

Kelly Smith
{Live. Love. Create.}

Boho Patchwork Vintage Star Quilt

Thanks for checking out my latest Moda Bake Shop recipe!  I’m Sarah, from Sweet Dreams by Sarah, and you can visit my blog to read a little more about my inspiration for this quilt, and to get a sneak peek of other projects that I’m working on.  I mostly make baby quilts, because frankly, I like immediate gratification.  Even though this is a lap-sized quilt, it comes together so quickly, it will be done before you know it!

I love the modern feel of a traditional block that’s blown up, so today we’re making a giant vintage star, using patchwork to give it a fun, scrappy feel.  Let’s get started!

1 Boho Layer Cake
3 Yards Bella Porcelain
4 Yards of any coordinating yardage for backing – I used No. 31091-18 in Rain and No. 31095-14 in Whisper (you will also have some leftover Layer Cake pieces that you can use to make the backing more scrappy)
5/8 Yard Binding – I used No. 31094-14 in Rain
Cotton batting, measuring at least 70″ by 70″

First, we need to sort the Layer Cake.  The great thing about this project is that you can really use any Layer Cake that has definite color ways, plus some lower contrast prints.  You’ll want to pull the following from your Layer Cake:

Four colorway-sorted piles, with at least 4 different prints in each:

A lower contrast or multicolored pile, with at least 8 different prints:

Set aside the rest of the layer cake, as we’ll be using that for the borders!

Keeping each pile together, cut the squares in quarters, giving you little stacks of 5″ squares.

Remaining cutting:
From the Porcelain background yardage:

  • 6 squares that measure 14″, and 4 squares that measure 13 1/2″
  • 8 strips 3 3/4″ by width of fabric (WOF)

From binding fabric:

  • 7 strips 2 1/2″ by WOF

Now that we have all the pieces, let’s get sewing!  We’ll be using a 1/4″ seam for all seams.

Using the squares we cut in the first step, and working with one color pile at a time, sew the squares into nine-patches.  Pick out 9 5″ squares from one of the colorways, and lay them out, trying to make it as scrappy looking as possible:

Sew the squares together into rows:

 And press out the rows with the seams going in opposite directions so that you can nest the seams:

 Sew the rows together and press for your nine-patch:

You’ll need 1 nine-patch in each colorway, and 2 in the low contrast fabrics.

Next, we need to mark those 14″ squares we cut from the background fabric.  Mark the diagonal across the square, with your preferred marking tool.  We’re going to be sewing on either side of that line, so make sure you can see it.  Lay one of your nine-patches down, right side up, and then lay the background square on top, with your marking facing up.

Pin this together, and then sew on either side of the line, 1/4″ away from the line:

Do this with all 6 of the 9 patches that you’ve made up, and then go ahead and cut on those lines that you drew, going right between the lines that you sewed.

 Press these open, and you’ll see that you now have patchwork half square triangles!

You should now have 16 blocks to work with – the 12 half square triangles, plus the 4 13 1/2″ background squares.  Using your design wall or your floor, arrange them for your quilt center.  Be sure to pair up the two half square triangles for the main colorways together, as you can see below:

Sew these squares together to create the center of the quilt.  To help the seams to line up, I usually handle this piecing in quadrants.  I sew together the 4 blocks in the upper left hand corner, then upper right, etc., to create bigger “chunks” that are much easier to manage when matching up corners.

Next, we’ll add the inner border.  Grab the 3 3/4″ strips that you cut from the background.  Take 2 of them, and sew together end to end, to make a double-long strip.

Do this with all 8 strips, so that you have 4 double-long strips – one for each side of the quilt.  Press the seam to one side, and pin to the edges of your quilt center, matching up the seam between the two strips to the seam in the middle of the side of the quilt:

Sew the strips onto the quilt center, using a quarter inch seam:

Sew these strips on the right and left side first, pressing and squaring up these sides before sewing the strips on the other two sides:

Next, we’ll work on the outer border.  Grab the extra 5″ charms that were left over from your 9-patches.  We need a total of 58, so pull about 5 more pieces from the layer cake – just choose your favorite prints here, as we’re still going for a scrappy look – and cut them into 5″ squares.

Choose 13 of the squares, and sew them end to end in a long strip.  Be sure to use a 1/4″ seam! I loosely arranged my squares by color so that I could control the color distribution a big as I sew them together.

Choose another 13, and sew them end to end as well.  Be sure to press these long strips well, and pin them onto opposite sides of the quilt.  Sew each strip onto opposite sides of the the quilt center.

Next, choose 15 squares, and sew them end to end in a long strip.  Do this twice also, which will give you the final borders to attach to the quilt.

Press it all well, and your quilt top is done!  The leftover layer cake pieces can be used in putting together your backing, or you can simply use yardage.  In this case, I used a few layer cake pieces to connect two pieces of yardage, for a scrappy looking back.

Quilt as desired, and use the 2 1/2″ strips that we cut from the binding fabric to construct your binding strips.  I bound this quilt using my preferred method of initially sewing the binding onto the back of the quilt, and then sewing on the front – both by machine.

One 67×67″ lap quilt!

This quilt pattern can also be simplified and made a bit smaller by stopping after you finish the quilt center!  I made this version, using a Twirl (by My Sister and Me) layer cake, and it measures approx. 52″ by 52″.

Sarah Connolly

"Bubbles" Mod-Improv Color Pop Lap Quilt

Hi all!
Erin Davis here from Sew at Home Mummy with my contribution to Moda’s May Color POP! Challenge!  I think the colors of the “Noteworthy” line really pop against that Bella “Cloud”; this project incorporates both easy-peasy strip piecing and for a bit of a challenge, some gorgeous set-in circle work! Not to fear – you can do it – curved piecing just requires a bit of patience and a little practice! And for fun, you can personalize this quilt – after all, it’s improv!

This 50″ x 70″ lap quilt was a lot of fun – I hope you’ll give it a go!

1 Jelly Roll (“Noteworthy” by Sweetwater)
1 Layer Cake (“Noteworthy” by Sweetwater)
3.25 yards of Bella Solid, (front: Bella “Cloud”)
3.5 yards of Bella Solid, (backing: Bella “Snow”)
Twin-sized Batting
Circle Templates (in the “Printer Friendly Version” of the post)

Cutting Instructions:
Cut 4 circles, using templates A – D provided, from layer cake pieces.
Cut 4 circle backgrounds:
          from front color yardage, cut 4 squares measuring  12.5” square
          from squares, remove circle cut-outs using templates E – H provided
From Jelly Roll, choose at least 10 strips, and, cut strips at different lengths randomly (making sure the shortest is no less than about 12”); I left mine either 
– full length of strip    or/
– cut the strip in half
From front color yardage, cut approximately (6) 2.5” x wof strips (amount of strips required will depend on how many and how long the patterned strips you’ll be inserting)

“Cut on the fly”; once you start piecing the top, it’ll be really handy to have your cutting station set up so that you can cut fabrics as you need them – cut, piece, repeat.

– Cut 2 pieces of backing fabric 36″ x 63″ (1yd27″).
– Select 7 layer cake pieces for the back piecing.
Inset Circles:
1.       Fold background and circles in 4 & finger press raw edges. Match circles with the appropriate background cut-out (A with E, B with F, etc.) 
2.       Pin circles to background, right sides together, easing fabric to fit.

3.       Sew, pivoting and easing fabric accordingly so as to eliminate risk of puckers.
4.       Press seams to inside of circle using steam and starch.
5.       Trim circle blocks to 11.5” square, centering circle while trimming.

1.       Lay strips out in order you are happy with on your design wall/floor/table,  staggering/offsetting them randomly; organize your circle blocks in an orientation you’re happy with.

2.       Once you’re happy with your layout, attach pieces of background strips to the top ends of 4 of your patterned fabric sitting to the far left of your quilt, creating a “strip set”, so as to bring the ends even. 
3.       To the strips on the bottom of the quilt, add solids to either end; to the
a.       left side: enough to hit the vertical strip set already pieced (approximately 8″ wide strip)
b.      right side: enough to bring the horizontal strips to the end of the quilt 
4.       Sew in background fabrics accordingly to the blank areas surrounding the circle blocks, filling in the space as you go, starting from the top of the quilt and working down. Leave the sewn strip sets separate for now.

5.       Now, Sew all of your strips together, alternating the end you start sewing each time so as to avoid warping. Start with the vertical strips and sew them into one ‘section’. Next, sew your bottom strips together creating another “section”.
6.       Attach vertical strip-set section to the left side of the circle-block section; attach the bottom horizontal strip set section to create the quilt top.

1.       Attach 7 layer cake pieces in a row randomizing patterns.
2.       Take the (2) cut back pieces and attach them to either side of your layer cake row lengthwise; press seam open.

Finishing the Quilt:
1.       Layer, baste, and quilt as desired.
2.       Bind quilt with left-over jelly strips.

One color-popping, gorgeous, 50″ x 70″ lap quilt!

…. and the back:

Erin Davis

Oink a Doodle Moo (x) times Two..or Three

Hello from Jo and Kelli at Jo’s Country Junction.  If you’ve read our blog, you know that we are farm gals and our guys are farmers. When we saw Moda’s new line “Oink a Doodle Moo”, we just knew we had to design something using it.  We live, breathe, eat and sleep farming…we might as well sew it too!  We ended up with not one, not two, but THREE baby quilts all from one jelly roll!! Isn’t that neat? After you read the tutorial, you’ll want to come over to our blog and sign up for a chance to win a free jelly roll to help you get started on your own set of quilts.  Read on and we’ll show how to make them.

Oink-A-Doodle-Moo:  #1 Woven Edge
Fabric Requirements:
-24 Jelly Roll Strips (Blocks)
-1/2 yard solid Red (Blocks)
-3/4 yard solid Yellow (Inner Border/Binding)
-1 yard Center Background (Center)
-1//4 yard cow print (Corner Blocks)
-2+ yards backing  We used scraps and added a strip to the back making it wide enough.
Oink-A-Doodle-Moo:  #2 Scrappy Bear Paw Stars
Fabric Requirements:
-1 Panel Set
-5 Red Jelly Roll strips (12.5” total of each print)
-5 Blue Jelly Roll strips (10” total of each print)
-5 Green Jelly Roll strips (20” total of each print)
-20 assorted Jelly Roll strips (3.5” total of each print)
-1 1/4  yard white (blocks and outer border)
-¾ yards red print (panel borders)
-1/2 yard (binding)
-2+ yards Backing We used scraps and added a strip to the back making it wide enough.

Oink-A-Doodle-Moo:  #3 Scrappy with PanelsFabric Requirements:
-Remaining Jelly Roll Strips
-1 Panel + 2 remaining Panels from previous quilt
1/2 yard (binding)-2 yards Backing

Oink-A-Doodle-Moo:  #1 Woven Edge Note: WOF=width of fabric  All seams are 1/4″ unless noted.

1.  From each jelly roll strip, cut 2-6 1/2” rectangles and 1-2 1/2” square.
2.  From the solid red, cut 3-2 1/2” strips
                -Subcut into 48-2 1/2” red squares.
3.  From the solid red, cut 1-4 1/2” strip.
                -Subcut into 4-4 1/2” squares.
4.  From the solid yellow, cut 4-1 1/2” strips.
                -Subcut 2 strips to 34 1/2” long and 2 strips to 36 1/2” long.
5.  From the solid yellow, cut 5-2 1/2” strips to be used for binding.
6.  From printed center fabric, cut a square 34 1/2” square.
7.  From cow print, cut 1-6 1/2” strip.
                -Subcut into 4-6 1/2” squares.
8.  From the remainder of the cow print 6 1/2” strip, cut 4-2 1/2” squares.

Sewing Blocks:
1.  To make 1 woven block, you will need 2 matching 6 1/2” rectangles, the matching 2 1/2” square, and 2 red 2 1/2” squares.

2.  Using the 2 1/2” squares, connect 1 printed square to 1 red square.  Press to the red square.
3.  Connect the second red square to the printed square.  Press to the red square.

4.  With right sides together, connect 1 pieced rectangle to a printed rectangle on the long side.  Press to the printed rectangle.  Repeat with the second printed rectangle.

5.  Repeat to make a total of 24 blocks.6.  To make the cow print corner blocks, place a red 4 1/2” square in the corner of a 6 1/2” cow print square with right sides together.

7.  Sew diagonally from corner to corner of the red square.  Trim seam to approximately ¼” on the outside of the block.  Press to the red triangle. To create this.

8.  Place a cow print 2 1/2” square in the same corner with right sides together.
9.  Sew diagonally from corner to corner.  Trim seam to 1/4″ on the outside of the block.  Press to the cow print triangle.  To create this.

10.  With right sides together, sew the 34 1/2” yellow 1 
1/2” strips to opposite sides of the 34 1/2” center square of fabric.  Press to the yellow border.
11.  Add the 36 1/2” yellow strips to the remaining opposite sides of the center fabric.  Press to the yellow fabric.
12.  Join the 24 woven blocks into 4 sets of 6 blocks.

13.  Assemble the quilt as shown.

14.  Quilt and bind using the 5-2 
1/2” solid yellow strips.
Oink-A-Doodle-Moo:  #2 Scrappy Stars 
1.  From the panel, trim 4 blocks to 10 1/2” square.
2.  From each of the red jelly roll strips, cut 5-2 1/2” squares.
3.  From each of the blue jelly roll strips, cut 4-2.5” squares.
4.  From each of the green jelly roll strips, cut 8-2 1/2” squares.
5.  From each of the assorted jelly roll strips, cut a 3.5” rectangles from each strip.
6.  From the white fabric, cut 15-2 1/2” strips.
                -Subcut 4 strips to yield a total of 20-6 1/2” x 2 1/2” rectangles.
                -Subcut 2 strips to yield a total of 20-2 1/2” squares.
                -Subcut 2 strips to yield a total of 20-2 1/2” x 3 1/2” rectangles.
                -Save 5 strips for outer border
7.  From the white fabric, cut 5-2” x WOF strips.
8.  From the printed red fabric, cut a total of 7-2 1/2” x WOF strips.  I fussy cut the printed fabric so that it looked like the tractors and other farm vehicles were “driving” around each of the panel blocks.
                -Subcut 3 strips to yield 8-2 1/2” x 10 1/2” strips.
                -Subcut 4 strips to yield 8-2 1/2” x 14 1/2” strips.
9.  From the binding fabric, cut 5-2 1/2” x WOF strips.
Sewing Blocks:
1.  To make the half-square triangles (star points), pair a white 3 1/2” strip with a 3.5” printed strip.  Place pieces right sides together.  Using an easy angle ruler, cut each set to yield 2 half square triangles.  Sew on the diagonal and press to the printed fabric.  If you don’t know how to use an easy angle ruler follow this link for instructions.

2.  Assemble each of the star blocks as shown.  Use the same green, red, and blue squares throughout each of the individual blocks.  Use the half-square triangles randomly through each of the blocks.

3.  With right sides together, stitch the 2 1/2” x 10 1/2” to opposite sides of each of the 4 panel blocks.  Press to the red border.4.  Attach the 2 1/2” x 14 1/2” rectangles to the remaining sides of each of the 4 panel blocks.  Again, press to the red border.

5.  Assemble the quilt as shown below.

6.  Sew the remaining 2 1/2″ white strips together.  Sew to the outside for a border.

7.  Quilt as desired and bind with the 5-2 1/2” x WOF strips.

Oink-A-Doodle-Moo:  #3 Scrappy with PanelsCutting:
1.  Using the remaining Jelly Roll strips, cut a total of 161- 2.5” squares.
2.  Trim each of the panel blocks to 10.5”
3.  Cut 5-2.5” strips from the binding fabric.
Sewing Blocks:
1.  Sew the panels and squares into the following units.

Make four.

Make four.

Make two.

Make one.

2.  Assemble the units as shown.  Make one.

Make one.

Make one.

3.  Sew the newly created units together to form the top.

4.  Quilt and bind as desired.

THREE baby quilts…Yes, three from one jelly roll.

Quilt #1 with the woven blocks measures 48 1/2″ x 48 1/2″

Quilt #2 with the scrappy stars measures 44 1/2″ x 44 1/2″

Quilt #3 with the panel pieces measures  42″ x 42″

Don’t forget to come up to Jo’s Country Junction to sign up to win your own jelly roll.

Jo and Kelli Kramer

Oh Pinwheels! Lap Quilt

Hi everyone! Debbie Taylor here from Fat Quarter Shop & It’s Sew Emma! I’m really happy to share with you my first project on Moda Bake Shop, Oh Pinwheels! I love this fun quilt with colorful sprinkles of pinwheels and oblong rings. While I usually make quilts as gifts for others, since I used my current favorite fabric Noteworthy, this one is a gift for moi!

In case you love my version, Fat Quarter Shop is offering kits of Oh Pinwheels in Noteworthy!

  • 1 Noteworthy Jelly Roll
  • 2 1/2 yards cream tonal for background, sashing and inner borders − I used Vanilla Fly a Kite SKU # 5501-21
  • 5/8 yard pink tonal for binding − I used Kisses Fly a Kite SKU # 5501-13
  • 3 1/4 yards for backing − I used Vanilla Bucket List SKU # 5500-11


  1. Choose 25 strips from your Noteworthy Jelly Roll.
    From 9 strips, cut:
    • 2 – 2.5″ x 8.5″ strips
    • 2 – 2.5″ x 4.5″ strips

    From 8 strips, cut:

    • 1 – 2.5″ x 13.5″ strips
    • 8 – 2.5″ squares

    From 8 strips, cut:

    • 1 – 2.5″ x 10.5″ strips
    • 8 – 2.5″ squares
  2. For background, sashing and inner borders, cut:
    • 21 – 4.5″ x 8.5″ rectangles
    • 16 – 2.5″ x 4.5″ rectangles
    • 116 – 2.5″ squares
    • 8 – 4.5″ squares
    • 9 – 2.5″ x WOF strips, subcut into:
      • 6 – 2.5″ x 40.5″ strips
      • 2 – 2.5″ x 52.5″ strips
  3. For binding, cut 7 – 2.5″ x WOF (width of fabric) strips

All seams are sewn with a 1/4″ seam allowance.

1. With right sides facing, layer a 2.5″ cream tonal scribbles square with a 2.5″ jelly roll square. Stitch together along center line. Press toward the darker color and trim off excess. Half-square triangle should measure 2.5″ x 2.5″. Repeat 115 more times. Make 116.

2. Assemble two 2.5″ x 8.5″ rectangles of the same fabric and one 4.5″ x 8.5″ cream tonal scribbles rectangle. Press toward the 2.5″ x 8.5″ rectangles. Unit should measure 8.5″ x 8.5″. Repeat eight more times. Make nine.

3. Assemble two 2.5″ half-square triangles of the same fabric and one 2.5″ x 4.5″ rectangle. Press toward the rectangles. Unit should measure 2.5″ x 8.5″. Repeat with the same fabrics once for two identical units. Repeat eight more times. Make nine pairs of identical units.

4. Assemble Oh Block as shown with matching fabrics. Press toward the 8.5″ x 8.5″ unit. Oh Block should measure 8.5″ x 12.5″. Repeat eight more times. Make nine.

5. Assemble two 2.5″ half-square triangles with different fabrics. Press toward the darker color. Unit should measure 2.5″ x 4.5″. Then assemble two 2.5″ x 4.5″ half-square triangle units of different fabrics and press toward the darker color. Pinwheel unit should measure 4.5″ x 4.5″. Repeat nineteen more times. Make twenty.

6. Assemble two 2.5″ x 4.5″ cream tonal scribbles rectangles and one 4.5″ x 4.5″ pinwheel unit. Press toward the pinwheel. Unit should measure 4.5″ x 8.5″. Repeat five more times. Make six. Assemble two 4.5″ x 8.5″ cream tonal scribbles rectangles and one 4.5″ x 8.5″ cream/pinwheel unit as shown. Press toward the cream/pinwheel units. Pinwheel Block should measure 8.5″ x 12.5″. Repeat five more times. Make six.

7. Assemble three Oh Blocks and two Pinwheel Blocks as shown. Press toward Pinwheel Blocks. Large Row should measure 12.5″ x 40.5″. Repeat two more times. Make three.

8. Assemble two 2.5″ x 4.5″ cream tonal scribbles rectangles, five pinwheel units and four 4.5″ cream tonal scribbles squares as shown. Press toward the cream tonal scribbles. Small Row should measure 4.5″ x 40.5″. Repeat one more time. Make two.

9. Assemble three Large Rows, four 2.5″ x 40.5″ cream tonal scribbles sashing strips and two Small Rows as shown. Press toward sashing. Quilt Center should measure 40.5″ x 52.5″.

10. Assemble four different 2.5″ x 13.5″ jelly roll rectangles as shown. Press toward darker colors. Side Border Unit should measure 2.5″ x 52.5″. Repeat one more time. Make two. Piece 2.5″ cream tonal scribbles strips end to end. Subcut into two 2.5″ x 52.5″ strips for the side borders. Assemble one Side Border Unit and one 2.5″ x 52.5″ cream tonal scribbles strip as shown. Press toward cream tonal scribbles print. Side Border should measure 4.5″ x 52.5″. Repeat one more time. Make two.

11. Assemble four different 2.5″ x 10.5″ jelly roll rectangles. Press toward darker colors. Top and Bottom Border Unit should measure 2.5″ x 40.5″. Repeat one more time. Make two. Assemble one Top and Bottom Border Unit and one 2.5 x 40.5 cream tonal scribbles strip. Press toward cream tonal scribbles print. Top and Bottom Border Row should measure 4.5″ x 40.5″. Repeat one more time. Make two. Then assemble two pinwheel units and one Top and Bottom Border Row as shown. Top and Bottom Border should measure 4.5″ x 48.5″. Repeat one more time. Make two.

12. Attach Side Borders to the Quilt Center. Press toward borders. Unit should measure 48.5″ x 52.5″. Second, attach Top and Bottom Borders to Quilt Center as shown. Quilt should measure 48.5″ x 60.5″.

Quilt and bind as desired! Natalia Bonner quilted mine with a leafy motif and cheerful flowers inside the Oh blocks.

One fresh 48.5″ x 60.5″ lap quilt for Spring! Hope you enjoy!

Debbie Taylor

"Flirty" Jelly Roll Lap Quilt

A 55”x55” lap quilt featuring Sandy Gervais’ “Flirt” for Moda, composed of (36) 9.5” (unfinished) square blocks.
Recipe by Erin Davis of Sew at Home Mummy

1 Moda ‘Flirt’ by Sandy GervaisJelly Roll
2.75 yards Bella Solids ‘Etchings Slate’ #9900-170 for background fabric
3.5 yards of backing fabric; I used #17703-16 from the ‘Flirt’ line
64”x64” piece of batting
Unused jelly roll strips for binding

From Jelly Roll:

  • PIECE A (2.5”x 5.5”): from jelly roll strips, cut 36 pieces of 2.5” x 5.5”. For a scrappier look, use as many different patterns as possible from the roll.
  • Binding: use your discretion, but I cut 14″ strips, using as many fabrics from the roll as possible for a scrappier look

From Background Yardage:
  • PIECE B (2.5” x 2.5”):cut 72 pieces
  • PIECE C (4” x 9.5”):cut 36 pieces
  • PIECE D (5.5” x 9.5”): cut 18 pieces
  • PIECE E (2.5” x 9.5”): cut 18 pieces

Assume 1/4″ seam allowance.

1. Stitch (2) B pieces to the short sides of (1) piece of A creating a center block strip as seen below. To save time, chain-piece like I have in the picture. Press seams to gray. 
Chain piece! It’s more fun that way…
2. Repeat Step 1. to create (36) block center pieces.

3. Separate your block center pieces into two piles of (18) each. I divided the two piles by strip color; for every primarily red strip I put in one pile, another went in pile #2, and so on. 
Your blocks will be assembled like this:

4. Stitch (2) C pieces to the long sides of (18) block center pieces. Press towards gray. You’ve created your “Block 1″s!

5. Stitch a D piece and an E piece on either side of the long sides of the other (18) block center pieces. Press seams towards gray. You’ve created your “Block 2″s!
Composing your Quilt Top:
1. This is where a design wall or large table comes in really handy. Randomly lay out your blocks in a 6 block x 6 block grid. Make sure to vary block orientation (i.e. center strips lying both horizontal & vertical). Create a balance that you’re comfortable with. 
Make sure to have fun with it! I do suggest looking at the layout you choose close up and from a distance, and to leave it overnight and come back to it with fresh eyes to make sure you love the placement of the blocks.
There! I’m happy with this layout!
2. Once you’re happy with the layout, take a piece of masking tape, and number the rows from 1 – 6, on the first block on the far left of the quilt, like this:
Numbering the rows will allow you to remove them from the design wall and make sure that you maintain the right order and orientation you painstakingly decided on in the above step:

3. Stitch your blocks together in rows. Make sure to press your seams in alternating directions for each row.

4. Join your rows, nesting your seams to eliminate bulk. Press long seams open.
Nest & pin, nest & pin!
 5. Remove your masking tape number markers – your quilt top is done!

Finishing the Quilt:

1. Cut your 3.5 yards of backing fabric into 2 pieces 1.75 yards (63”) long; join pieces vertically. Press seam open.

2. Layer your backing, batting and quilt top; quilt as desired.

3. Use the remaining jelly roll strips to bind your quilt – cut several shorter pieces and sew together for a scrappier look. I joined my 14″ pieces together using a 45 degree angle.
Scrappy binding!!

One super snuggly 55″x55″ lap quilt perfect for cuddling up on the couch with!

If you have a minute, stop by my blog – there are almost always shenanigans a-brewing. Thanks for reading, and happy quilting!

Erin Davis