Noteworthy Labyrinth Quilt

Hello again!  This is Karin Vail from Cascade Quilts and I am happy to bring you my third Moda Bake Shop project!  This would look wonderul in just about any Moda collection!
I showed a preview picture of the pattern to a quilter friend of mine, and she said it looked like a labyrinth or maze, so the name was born.  This quilt came together pretty quickly – it looks complicated, but if you keep your consistent 1/4” seam, you should have no problems 🙂  This quilt top finishes at approx. 87”x87”.

2 jelly rolls (Noteworthy by Sweetwater)
3 1/2 yards Bella solids (Snow)
5 yards backing (#5500 15  ”Daisy” from Noteworthy collection)

We will be using 1/4” seam allowance throughout.

First, we’ll be cutting loads and loads of narrow strips from your Bella solid.

8 WOF strips @ 1.75” for the border
66 WOF strips @ 1.5” wide for the sashing (30 are for your strip sets)
     Subcut 28 of the 1.5” strips into:
          45 pieces @ 16.5”
          50 @ 8”

Set aside 30 WOF @ 1.5” for your strip sets, and 8 WOF @ 1.5” for your sashing.

To get the most out of your solids, you can get two 16.5” pieces and one 8” piece from each WOF – so, from 22 strips, cut 44 pieces @ 16.5” and 22 pieces @ 8” – then from one strip, cut 1 piece @ 16.5” and 3 pieces @ 8” – then from 5 strips, cut 25 more pieces @ 8”.   This should give you the least amount of waste.

Take the remaining eight 1.5” strips and join into 4 longer strips @ 88” (sashing strip to join the rows together.)

Join the eight WOF 1.75” strips into 4 @ 88” for your border.

Open your two jelly rolls and choose 30 strips from each jelly roll for a total of 60 strips.  Some of the remaining jelly roll strips will be used for scrappy binding, so keep that in mind when choosing strips.  Also keep in mind what you choose if you might want to make matching pillows. Unfortunately, I left out the white/white prints and lower value prints and didn’t think about using the remaining for pillows until the top was already all assembled.  I wish I would have thought ahead further so I could have a matching pillow or two.

Anyhow, for each of the strip sets, you will choose 3 jelly roll strips and join together alternating with 2 of the 1.5” solid strips.  Press all seams to one side.

You will sew together 20 of these strips sets.  Each strip set should measure 8.5” wide.

Cut each strip set into five 8.5” squares.  There will be VERY LITTLE waste here, so cut cautiously.  After you have cut all your strip sets into 8.5” squares, you will take pairs keeping the seams orientated in the same direction, and cut them diagonally in opposing directions.

It is imperitive that you cut the angles in opposing directions for this to work.

Now, swap the upper pieces from each block and align and you will start to see the sub-block emerging!

If you pressed the seams to one side, and kept them in the same direction when you cut the blocks, your seams will all nest pefectly when you go to join the triangles back into a square!  The bias edge helps a LOT to make sure your seams line up.

Sew the blocks together and press.  You can press open or to one side here, your choice.  I chose to press to the side because it’s faster 🙂

At this point, carefully trim your blocks so they are 8” square.  You should have VERY little to trim, if anything at all.  The blocks will go together much nicer if these are all nice and square though 🙂
Continue cutting/sewing your sub-blocks – you should have a total of 100 for this quilt.

To assemble the 25 blocks, you will stitch an 8” x 1.5” solid between pairs of sub-blocks, press toward the solid.  Then, assemble pairs of those with the 16.5” x 1.5” strip for your finished blocks.  There will be 25 total.  Using your final twenty 16.5” x 1.5” strips, sew the blocks into rows of 5 – then use your 1.5” x 88” strips to join your rows.  Finally, use your final four 1.75”x 88” strips to add a border for a final quilt top finish of 87”x87”.

Now you can layer, baste, quilt, and bind using 9 of your remaining jelly roll strips!  (You will have 11 leftover jelly roll strips from the 2 jelly rolls and a small amount of the solid – maybe make some pillows to match?!)

One beautiful 87”x87” quilt!

Hop on over to my website to see the quilt in it’s post-washed crinkly goodness!


120-Minute Gift: Drunkard’s Path Table Runner

Drunkard’s Table Runner: ‘marmalade’ with a festive spin:  A 12.5” x 54” table runner featuring “Marmalade” by Bonnie and Camille for Moda, >composed of (5) 9.5” square drunkard’s path blocks

Recipe Pattern by Erin Davis of Sew at Home Mummy

Hi all!

I wanted to do something festive for my dining room table, and I thought, hey! I love ‘marmalade’, why not pair it with a modern red & green to give the line a Christmas-y spin? I love the way it turned out – it looks good on my table for the upcoming holidays, yet I could most definitely pull it off year round! I had a lot of fun composing this runner and I have to say: don’t be scared of curved piecing! Look how gorgeous it looks when it’s done. This would make a fantastic holiday gift, too. 

Happy sewing, quilting and crafting everyone!

Cheers and enjoy the project,


– 1 Moda ‘marmalade’ by bonnie and camille Charm Pack
– 1 yard Bella Solids ‘Pistachio’
– 1/3 yards Bella Solids ‘Scarlet’
– 16”x60” piece of batting

From charm squares:
see attached templates (A) & (B) in the printable version of the post… I cut mine from the cardboard on the back of the charm square pack, like this:

***sort the charm squares as you like – have fun with it! I pre-sorted my squares into colorways (i.e. – all the ‘reds’ in one stack, all the yellows in another, etc. and then paired the patterns based on what I’d like to see as the center wedge piece, and what I’d like to see as the outer ‘L’ piece.***

·         Cut 20 pieces of template (A) (creating the ‘wedge’ shapes)

·         Cut 20 pieces of template (B) (creating the ‘L’ shapes)

Tip: when cutting curved pieces, try to use the smallest sized rotary cutter you have; you’ll find it much easier to navigate the curves.Your cut pieces will look like this, with the wedge-shaped piece appearing larger than the concave part of the ‘L’ shape – don’t worry:

This is what you want – it’s the seam allowances that make it appear too big to fit.

From yardage:

Cut (2) pieces of 16” x 30”
Cut (4) pieces 2”x9.5”
Cut (2) pieces 2”x12.5”
Cut (3) strips 2”x width of fabric

Piecing (Runner Top):
1. Sort your A’s and B’s in combinations of fours (there will be 4 each of A’s and B’s in one block) ; I sorted by colorway in a way that was aesthetically pleasing to me. Have fun with it!

Have fun arranging your pieces
2. Attach piece (A)s to piece (B)s, creating quarter block units. If you have never pieced Drunkard’s blocks before, here are some tips.

a. Fold your Piece (A) and (B) in half along the cut curve, and finger press like so:

b. Match your finger press marks, right sides together, and pin

Tip: When pinning for curved seams, try to have your pin enter where the sewing line will be – i.e. ¼” from the edge of the fabric, and only ‘grab’ a small amount of fabric with pin

c. Match the two outside edges together; pin in the same manner as described above. Place pins along the rest of the curve, easing the fabric to fit.

d.  Sew the two pieces together. I have sewn both with the wedge piece (piece (A)) on top, and the wedge piece on bottom. Personally, I find it easier with the ‘L’ shaped piece (or piece (B)) on top – but you’ll have to play with it to find what you’re most comfortable with. Here are some tips I have found helpful for sewing curved seams:

                             i. Slow and steady; don’t expect to zip around these curves like straight piecing (unless you’re pro! haha)

                             ii. Leave your pins in to the last minute, without sewing over them.

                             iii. every 3-5 stitches, lift your presser foot, pivot slightly, adjust your fabrics, etc.

                             iv. always be conscious of the fabric about to enter under your presser foot – make sure there are no lumps and bumps.

                             v. I have some more tips on my blog – I recently finished a 4” apple core quilt and posted ideas on curved piecing here: 
                             Sew at Home Mummy: Apple Core Quilt
e.  When you’re done sewing, you’ll have a block that looks like this:

f.   Press towards piece (A)s.
g.  Join two quarter blocks to create a half block; press. Repeat with other half of block.
                   Join two half block pieces, matching center seams. Press center seam open.
3.  Arrange completed blocks in an orientation you like. When you’re happy with your layout, attach 2”x9.5” sashing pieces (in ‘Scarlet’) between blocks to create table runner top, like so:
4.  Sew the (3) 2”x width of fabric (in ‘Scarlet’) together, creating one long strip. Use strip to border runner. ‘Cap’ ends with (2) 2” x 12.5” pieces:
Piecing (Backing & Binding):
1.  Sew short ends of the two 16”x30” pieces of ‘Pistachio’ together, creating a backing measuring 16”x60” with a ½” seam allowance. Press seam open.

2.  Use remaining ‘Pistachio’ for binding (as desired).
1.       Layer, baste and quilt as desired.
2. Bind as desired with remaining ‘Pistachio’. I used a decorative top-stitch on the binding seam to jazz it up a bit. 
One gorgeous ‘marmalade’ table runner with a festive spin.

If you have a minute, pop by my blog and see what shenanigans are brewing – there’s always something happening.

Erin Davis

{Sew at Home Mummy}

Big thanks to Moda for giving me the opportunity to work with their gorgeous fabrics again!

120-Minute Gift: Charmed Message Board

Hello! I am excited to share my first Moda Bake Shop recipe with you as part of the ‘Just in Time Gifts’ series.  My name is Pauline Francis and I have been quilting for about 10 years. I blog at Quiltnqueen and I’d love for you to come for a  visit. I hope you love the message board as much as I do.

  • 1 mama said SEW charm pack (SKU 5490PP)
  • 1/4 yard mama said SEW (SKU 5495-11) for binding
  • 1/2 yard Moda Bella Off White(SKU9900-200) for header background and backing
  • 1 FQ chalk cloth (SKU OC48)
  • Piece of batting, measuring 15″ x 18″

  • DMC floss, colors #498 and #420
  • Mini clothes pins (optional)

All seams are 1/4″ unless otherwise noted.

From the Moda Bella Off White, cut:

  • 1 rectangle, 10″ wide x 8″ length for the header
  • 1 rectangle, 15″ x 18″ for backing
  • 1 rectangle, 3″ x 3 1/4″ for the back of the mini quilt

From the chalk cloth, cut:

  • 1 rectangle, 12 1/2″ wide x 9 1/2″ long

From the binding fabric, cut:

  • 2 strips, 2 1/4″ x WOF

From the charm squares:

Choose 11 different charm squares.

  • Cut 8 of the charm squares into 2 – 2 1/2″ squares and 1 – 2 1/2″ x 5″ rectangle.
    • Choose 6 different 2 1/2″ squares for the header, 3 for the right side and 3 for the left side of the embroidered block.
    • Choose 2 of the 2 1/2″ x 5″ rectangles and 2 of the 5″ charms for the bottom pocket.


I have included 2 options for the header. See the Printer Friendly file at the bottom of the post for the template.

  • Option A is all redwork embroidery. Trace the entire PDF file. Stitch with DMC #498.
  • Option B is redwork embroidery with a mini quilt attached to the laundry line with mini clothes pins.  Trace the words and laundry line only, do not trace the quilt.  Stitch the words with DMC #498 and the laundry line with DMC #420.  When stitching the laundry line use the back stitch 1 inch at each end of the laundry line.  Leave 3 inches of the line unstitched to attach the mini quilt to the line.
  • Whether you choose Option A or B, trim the embroidered piece to 8 1/2″ wide x 6 1/2″ long, centering the embroidery.

    Option B: Mini Quilt

    To make the mini quilt, take the last 5″ charm squares and a piece of batting 3 1/4″ wide x 3 1/2 ” length. Wrap charm square around the batting, mitering the corners. Hand stitch close to the edge and hand quilt the body of the quilt. Press edges under 1/4″ around the rectangle you cut for the mini quilt backing and hand stitch to the back of the mini quilt, wrong sides together.

    I used my walking foot to assemble the entire message board. 
    Sew 2 sets with 3 of the 2 1/2″ squares. Press seams open. The length should measure 6 1/2″.

    Sew the 2 sets of squares to the embroidery block, press seams towards the squares.

    To make the pocket, trim 1/2″ off the side of the middle charm square. Sew the pocket pieces together, press seams open.   Trim to 12 1/2 ” cutting from the charm on the left…the pocket piece should measure 12 1/2″ x 5″. Fold the pocket piece in half lengthwise, press, it should now measure 12 1/2″ x 2 1/2″. Sew the sides of the pocket and the bottom of the pocket to the chalk cloth, raw edges even, using 1/8″ seam allowance.

    Sew the bottom of the header to the top of the chalk cloth (option A).

    Sandwich the top, batting and backing, stitch 1/8″ around the outer edge.Make one small pocket and one large pocket by stitching in the ditch…first seam on the left.  The larger pocket will hold your chalk pencil.Stitch in the ditch down the inside seams of the embroidered block or quilt squares as desired.

    Trim and bind using your favorite method.
    {TIP:  Use a binder clip to pleat the message board when sewing your binding ends together.  With every quilt I make, big or small, I always make a big pleat with the quilt, it makes sewing the binding ends together a lot easier….the quilt and the binding are not fighting each other.}

    Attach a hanging sleeve using your favorite method.

    The message board finishes at approximately 12.5″ x 15.5″.  If your local quilt shop does not carry the chalk cloth, ask them to order it from United Notions.

    I would love for you to visit my blog,where you will find more message board ideas. I hope you have fun making a message board for a gift and don’t forget to make one for yourself. It has been a lot of fun baking with Moda.

    Happy stitching,

    Pauline Francis

    Paint Chip Placemats

    For each placemat you will need:
    1/2 yard Ombre Solid by V and Co. for Moda Fabrics
    6″” x 42″ of Moda Bella solid white
    1 fat quarter coordinating print

    Embroidery floss and supplies

    Press your 1/2 yard ombre fabric and lay out on your cutting mat horizontally.

    Trim the selvedge from the darkest end and cut a strip 4 3/4″ wide.
    (Your piece will be 4 3/4″ x 18″)

    Next find the lightest part of the fabric. It should be right on the fold. With the lightest color of fabric in the middle, cut another strip 4 3/4″ wide.
    Using the fabric between the two strips you just cut, find the area of fabric with the biggest color difference. I eyeballed this and then cut two 4 3/4″ strips- one from each area.
    (There was anywhere from 1 1/4″ to 1 3/4″ between each each strip)
    Trim each strip to 14″ in length then lay out your 4 strips in order from darkest to lightest. 
    From the white fabric cut (2) 2 1/2″ x WOF strips and (1) 1″ x WOF strip.
    Set aside the 2 1/2″ strips for Binding. Cut the 1″ strip into (3)  1″ x 14″ strips
    Begin sewing a 1″ white strip to the right side of 3 color sections as shown above. Use a 1/4″ seam. Press towards the Ombre fabric.
    Making sure the colors stay in order, continue sewing sections until all are together.
    After the placemat top is together you can add “color names” if you want. I designated a placemat for each member of my family and then chose color names that fit that person. My daughter has the pink placemat so I used color names such as “Lip Smacker” and “Pinkalicious” to personalize it for her. Use your creativity or find color names online from a paint store.
    Write the names in the bottom left of each section using a Frixion pen (the kind that disappear when ironed). Layer with a 80/20 batting and embroider using a backstich and thread of your choice.
    (I used white thread and the color names are hard to read in the lighter colors)
    Finish the placemat by sandwiching the placemat top, 80/20 batting, and coordinating fat quarter for the back. Baste or pin then quilt. I used not-so-straight line quilting in each section.
    Bind using the 2 1/2″ strips cut earlier from the white fabric.
    And you’re done!  :o)
    Now you can go back and make one from each color!!!

    1 gorgeous Paint Chip Placemat!

    Thanks for joining me!  Don’t forget to come visit me on my blog: Crazy Old Ladies Quilts.
    Credit for inspiration of this fabulous project goes to Avril Loreti. Visit her Etsy shop to see her other amazing creations.

    Emily Herrick

    A Window to Summer Quilt

    Hi, it’s Kristy here from Handmade Retro. You know how there are some times that you have the time and energy to work on something really involved and intricate and others where you just feel like a simple sew with very little cutting? This quilt is for those times like the second option. It is also a great option for simple graphic prints or novelty prints you don’t want to chop up too small.

    1 x charm pack of Summersville by Lucie Summers

    0.5 yard of Bella Solids in Betty’s Orange (9900-124), Kelly (9900-76), Christmas Red (9900-16), Horizon Blue (9900-111), Black (9900-99)

    2.5 yards in Bella Solids Snow (9900-11) – for top and binding
    3.75 yards for backing (I used the green leaf  print – 31703 15)

    For Quilting

    DMC Perle 8 thread in Black (310), Orange (900), Green (702)
    Finca Perle 8 thread in Red (1490), Verigated Aqua/Teal (9770), Cream (1211)

    From the cream solid
    Cut 7 – 2.5″ strips – set these aside from the binding
    Cut 12 – 5.25″ strips and cross cut into 5.25″ squares.

    You will be able to get 7 squares from each strip – you will need 84 squares total.

    Cut each of the squares into triangles in half from corner to corner – you will end up with 168.

    From the Orange Solid
    Cut 1 strip 4″ wide – cross cut into 10 4″ squares and then again into triangles in the same manner as the cream solid.
    You need to finish with 20 triangles.

    From the Red Solid
    Cut 1 strip 4″ wide – cross cut into 10 4″ squares and then again into triangles in the same manner as the fabrics earlier.
    You need to finish with 20 triangles.

    From the Green Solid 
    Cut 2 strips 4″ wide – cross cut into 18 4″ squares and then again into triangles in the same manner.
    You need to finish with 36 triangles.

    From the Black Solid
    Cut 2 strips 4″ wide – cross cut into 20 4″ squares and then again into triangles in the same manner.
    You need to finish with 40 triangles.

    From the Teal Solid
    Cut 3 strips 4″ wide – cross cut into 26 4″ squares and then again into triangles in the same manner.
    You need to finish with 52 triangles.

    That’s it. All the cutting is done.


    Split your bundle into color families – in Summersville you will have 5 (from left to right – black, red, blue, green, orange). All the blocks will be constructed in the same way – just with the matching solid.

    Find the center of two opposite sides of a charm square and finger press to mark. Take two corresponding color triangles and find the center on the long side in the same way.

    Match the center marks and pin at the center mark and each end, you will have some overhang on each end. That’s a good thing. 

    Sew both seams.
    Tip: I worked with one color at a time, pinning the triangles onto opposite side of all the squares of one color and then chain piecing them down one side and then the other.

    Press the triangles open to end up with something like this. I recommend pressing your seams towards the triangle.

    Find the center of the two sides without a triangle and finder press to mark. Do the same with the rest of  the triangles and pin. Sew, chain piecing as before.

    Press triangle out – you’ve got a square again! Trim the dog ears from the center of each of the four sides.

    The cream triangles are added in exactly the same way – the only difference is I only mark the center on the triangle – I match this with the point of the charm square – this is not the edge of the seam on the edge of the block!

     Sew a triangle on opposite sides, press out, repeat with the remaining sides. Trim the new dog ears.

    Another square!

    Repeat with all the other colors.

    Lay out your blocks until you are happy with the distribution of the colours. You should have 42 blocks for a 6×7 layout.

    When you are satisfied ,sew the blocks together in rows, then pairs, then fours, then join and add on the last row nesting seams between the blocks and pressing row seams towards the bottom of the quilt.

    You have a quilt top!


    I pin baste my quilts. First I tape the backing to the floor pulling tight (but not stretching the fabric) and taping the edges flat. 

    Tip: If you have joins or designs you want to match up the floorboards joints or tile grout lines can be helpful here!


    For this quilt I hand quilted with Perle cotton No. 5 (see garnishes for colors I used) ¼” outside the print square and in a square inside the larger cream areas.

    I use straight of grain binding, machine sew to the front, mitering corners and hand stitched to the back.

    54″x62″  lap size quilt

    Kristy Ward


    Jungle Path Baby Quilt


    Hello everyone!  My name is Jessica and I blog at SewCraftyJess.  I am so excited to share my very first Moda Bake Shop tutorial with you today.  It seems I am often needing to make baby quilts for different friends and families new additions, so I am always on the lookout for adorable kiddo fabrics.  When I came across Bungle Jungle by Tim and Beck,  I just had to put together a baby quilt showcasing all of the adorable prints in such fun colors, and I’m excited to share it with you today!

    One Charm Pack: Tim & Beck Bungle Jungle
    One Jelly Roll: Tim & Beck Bungle Jungle
    1 1/2 Yard Bella Solid in White


    1.  From white solid:
    Cut (22) 1.5″ x WOF strips

    • Subcut (4) 1.5″ strips into (32) 4″ x 1.5″ pieces
    • Subcut (6) 1.5″ strips into (32) 6″ x 1.5″ pieces
    • Subcut (2) 1.5″ strips into (16) 5″ x 1.5″ pieces
    • Subcut (3) 1.5″ strips into (12) 10″ x 1.5″ pieces
    • Subcut (5) 1.5″ strips into (5) 41 1/2″ x 1.5″ pieces
    • Subcut (2) 1.5″ strips into (2) 43 1/2″ x 1.5″ pieces
    Cut (3) 3.5″ x WOF strips for quilt back
    2.  Choose 16 charms to be the centers of each block and trim to 4″ square
    3.  Pair each of your trimmed charms with 5″ charm and matching jelly roll strip (5″ charm and jelly roll strip should match)
    4.  From each jelly roll strip, cut (2) 10″ strips from the selvedge edges.  We will be using the remaining ~20″ of jelly roll strip for the binding, set aside.
    Quilt Top Assembly

    Use 1/4″ seam throughout and press all seams open
    1.  Sew (2) 4″ white strips onto opposite sides of your 4″ center square
    2.  Sew (2) 6″ white strips onto remaining 2 sides of center square
    3.  Sew (1) 5″ white strip onto one edge of the coordinating charm you selected
    4.  Cut your charm/white strip piece in half lengthwise, resulting in (2) strips measuring 6″ x 2.5″
    5.  Take your center square bordered in white and sew (2) matching 6″ x 2.5″ pieced strips from step 4 onto opposite sides, taking care to align the white portion of the strip to the left on one edge and to the right on the other.
    6.  Sew (2) matching 10″ jelly roll strips on to remaining sides of center square bordered in white.  Your block should now measure 10″ square.  
    7.  Repeat to sew 16 blocks.  Arrange your layout taking care to alternate the direction of the white strips between vertical and horizontal.  
    8.  Attach blocks by sewing (1) 10″ x 1.5″ white sashing strip between each block.
    9.  Attach rows by sewing (1) 41.5″ x 1.5″ white sashing strip between each row, and one sashing row on top of the top row, and one sashing row on bottom of the bottom row.
    10.  Attach last two rows of sashing to the left and right borders of the quilt top.
    Quilt Back Assembly

    1.  Use the 24 remaining jelly roll strips and sew together along the long edge, to result in a strip pieced rectangle measuring appx 44″ x 48.5″
    2.  Trim the selvedges off your strip pieced square.
    3.  Cut one of your 3.5″ x WOF strips and cut in half width wise, resulting in (2) 3.5″ x 22″ strips.  Sew each half onto each of your remaining two 3.5″ x WOF strips to give you enough length to add to the trimmed edges.  Attach onto each 48.5″ edge.  Your resulting quilt back should measure appx. 48.5″ square
    To make binding, choose 10 leftover jelly roll strips from cutting the 10″ strips for your blocks.  Sew together to form scrappy binding.  
    Baste, Quilt and Bind as desired.


    One 43″ x 43″ reversible baby quilt, ready to be loved and snuggled!


    If you use this tutorial to make a Jungle Path baby quilt, I’d love to see it!  Be sure to add it to my Flickr group, and of course to the Moda Bake Shop Flickr group as well.  Thanks for stitching along!
     Jessica Kelly

    Simply Charming Tablecloth

    Simply Charming Tablecloth

    Hello All! My name is Angela and I blog over at   I’m back with another tutorial for you, this time using the lovely Domestic Bliss line by Liz Scott.  I fell in love with these fabrics as soon as I saw them and wanted to make something quick and “easy” with all of the colors.

    Sometimes you love every single fabric in a line and just want to USE them.  Right now!  Well this tablecloth pattern will let you do that and gives you a very functional item along with the joy of diving into a collection.  It uses just 2 charm packs.  So there is enough to have some fun but not so much that it gets overwhelming.

    This tablecloth is perfect for special occasions like birthdays or holidays (with the right fabrics!) but is also simple enough for every day use.  There are special details like a mitered edge border and a single piece backing.

    It’s “Simply Charming”.

    (2) Charm Packs of Domestic Bliss by Liz Scott
      *update – not on PDF instructions* – you need 88 charms total…some lines will have enough in two charm packs.  If you don’t have enough, I would take some of the extra Bella solid and cut it into charm squares and use them as corner squares on the table cloth.
    1 1/4 yard of Bella Solid Marine
    2 yards of 108″ Grey Dottie Backing

    Cut the Bella solid into a 40 1/2″ square piece of fabric.

    Arrange your charms around the Solid center in rows.
    You will need
         (2) 9 piece strips
         (4) 11 piece strips
         (2) 13 piece strips


    Sew the charms into rows and attach the rows to the solid center as shown below.

    First attach each 9 piece strip to opposite sides of the solid center.
    Next attach an 11 piece strip to the two remaining opposite sides of the solid center to create a square piece again.


    Then attach an 11 piece strip to opposite sides of the new square piece.


    Finally, attach a 13 piece strip to the remaining two opposite sides to once again square up the piece.


    Your piece should now be 58″ square.

    Cut the Dottie Backing into a 67″ square piece.
    We will be creating a deep mitered hem around the perimeter of the tablecloth.

    On all four sides of the backing fabric, press the ends wrong sides together with a 1/2″ fold.


    Follow this by pressing all four sides in with a 2″ fold.


    At each corner, unfold the fabric back to reveal the wrong side of the fabric.  Fold each corner in at a 45 degree diagonal, wrong sides together.  You should be able to match up your pressed creases.


       Trim the folded triangle to a 1/2″.


    Refold the fabric back along the original pressed edges to reveal a perfect mitered corner.

    simply charming tablecloth - mitered edge

    Lay the backing fabric out with the wrong side up.  Place the tablecloth pieced top on top of the backing, centering it.  Keep each fabric as smooth and flat as possible.

    simply charming tablecloth

    Fold the hem along the edge of the pieced top and pin in place around the entire tablecloth.  Top stitch around the entire edge of the hem, including the mitered edges.


    And ta-da!  You are done!  Easy peasy!

    One Simply Charming Tablecloth!

    Simply Charming Tablecloth2
    So pull out those charm packs…feel free to mix and match!  And whip up a fabulous tablecloth for that special occasion.  You could make some coordinating napkins too. 😉  Oh and how cute would a novelty tablecloth be for a child’s birthday party?!  Endless possibilities… 
    If you do use the tutorial to make a tablecloth I would love to see it!  So please share it in my flickr group, Cut To Pieces and of course the Moda BakeShop Group as well.  Enjoy!
    Angela Pingel

    Pink with a Splash of Orange Quilt

    Hi, I am Quiltjane and I am happy to be back baking for the Bake Shop. Today I am presenting a very simple baby quilt using a combination of Bella solids, one Cape Ann charm pack and yardage of Cape Ann brushed cottons to create a subtle texture and cosy feel to the quilt.

    The dictionary definition of ‘Brushed cottons’ is: “Cotton fabric that is brushed to remove all the excess lint and fibers from the fabric, leaving an ultra soft, smooth finish” The brushed cotton fabrics were beautiful to cut and sew, making the perfect combination for a cuddly quilt fit for a baby.

    1 charm pack Cape Ann by Oliver + S

    2 1/2 yards brushed cotton print 11186 12 B
    1 1/2 yard pink striped brushed cotton print 11188 12 B
    1/2 yard orange solid – Bella 9900- 162 Amelias Apricot
    1 1/2 yard pink solid  – Bella 9900-145 Sisters Pink
    54″ x 54″ batting

    From the Charm Pack cut:
    32 – 2 1/2″ x 5″ rectangles (2 per charm square ) – Piece E
    32 – 1 1/2″ x 5″ rectangles ( 3 per charm square ) – Piece H
    16 – 2″ x 5″ rectangles ( 2 per charm square ) – Piece K
    From the pink solid cut:
    11 – 1 1/2″ strips WOF. Cut these into 32 – 1/2″ x 12″ pieces – Piece F
    8 – 2″ strips WOF. Cut these into 16 – 2″ x 18″ pieces – Piece B
    5 strips –  2 1/4″x WOF for binding
    From the pink stripe fabric cut:
    13 strips WOF. Cut these into 64 – 2 1/2″ x 7 1/2″ pieces – Piece D
    6 strips WOF. Cut these into 32 – 1 1/2″ x 6 1/2″ pieces – Piece H
    From the brushed cotton print cut:
    7 strips WOF. Cut these into 32 – 2″ x 7 1/2″ pieces – Piece I
    8 strips WOF. Cut these into 16 – 2″ x 18″ pieces – Piece C
    The remaining 1 1/2 yards will be used for the backing with left over pieces from the other fabrics.
    From the orange solid cut:
    8 – 1 1/4″ strips WOF. Cut these into 16 – 1 1/4″ x 18″ pieces – Piece A
    2 – 2″ strip WOF. Cut into 16 – 2″ x 5″ pieces – Piece J
    Make 8 of each

    Place Pieces G and H at right angles with right side together. Draw a 45 degree line.


    N.B: All seams are pressed open.
    For Block A and Block B

    • Sew a 1 1/2″x 5″ charm (Piece H) to 1 1/2″ x 6 1/2″ pink stripe fabric (Piece G) using a 45 degree angle. Make 32.
    Sew on line and trim back to 1/4″ 
    Fold back and press open seam

    • Sew a 2 1/2″ x 7 1/2″ pink stripe fabric (piece D) to each end of 2 1/2″ x 5″ charm piece using a 45 degree angle. Make 32.
    Fold back and press open seam. Repeat for other end of piece E.
    Place Pieces D and E at right angles with right side together. Draw a 45 degree line.
    Sew on line and trim back to 1/4″

    • Join pieces A, B and C. Fold in half and press to find centre of each piece. Make 16.
    • Fold remaining strips and use centre line as reference point to join all strips.

    • Trim block to 12 1/2″ square. Place the 45 degree line down the centre of the orange strip.

    • Layout the blocks.

    • Sew together to make rows.
    • Sew rows together.

    • Make your backing using the remaining brushed cotton fabric and left over fabrics.

    • Layer quilt top, batting and backing. Quilt as desired and bind.

    Finished Quilt size: 48 1/2″ x 48 1/2″
    Finished block size: 12″ x 12″
    Alternative Quilt Layouts

    I hope you enjoyed this project. If you make this quilt or any of my other MBS projects, I would love to see them posted on my Flickr group at Want it Need it Quilt.

    Happy quilting!

    Jane Shallala Davidson

    Twisted Charm Quilt

    I love a good plan. I don’t always follow my plans, but I love to have them. They give me a way to focus my energy on the step at hand. Otherwise, I’d be like a squirrel chasing leaves instead of gathering nuts.

    My plan for this quilt was this…1 charm pack of 42 beautiful prints and solids each deserving of their own special place….Set in a grid of 6 x 7 squares with a 1″ sashing and two borders.

    For an added bit of interest, I gave them a little twist. Every other block is twisted twice. Thus, the center of the quilt requires 2 sets of blocks…21 of each. These blocks finish at 6″ square, or 6 ½” before they are sewn into the top.

    I also put tiny twisted blocks in the corners of the outer border. This is the third kind of block you will need to make. You make 4 of these. To make these blocks you need to hold onto your scraps. DO NOT CHUCK THEM when you trim the charms for the double twist blocks.

    1 charm pack (42, 5″ squares)
    1 ½ yds black solid
    1 3/4 yds white solid
    ½ yd inner border
    ½ yd binding (cut 2.5″ with wof)
    3 yds backing

    1. Open the charm pack and put every other patch of fabric in a different pile. Go through the whole pack until you have 2 piles of 21 patches. This will put approximately half of each color way in each pile.
    2. Cutting Directions:
      1. Block A – Single Twist
        1. From black
          1. cut 3 5″ width of fabric (wof) strips
          2. cut each wof strip into 14 3″ pieces
          3. you should have 42, 3″x5″ rectangles
          4. sub-cut each rectangle once on the diagonal for a total of 84 triangles.
          5. If you are using a patterned fabric for the background DO NOT LAYER YOUR RECTANGLES WITH LIKE SIDES TOGETHER WHEN YOU CUT THEM.  This will result in half of the triangles leaning the wrong direction. The resulting blocks will look like the icons on your i-phone when you start to move one.  Check out my sample blocks…The difference is subtle.  Look at the long and short edges of the triangles and how they relate to the center.  These blocks are NOT the same.  If put together in a quilt I believe they would seem to be jumping and turning all over the place. If both sides of your fabric are the same (like in a Bella solid) this isn’t an issue.
        2. From charm pack
          1. 21 5″x5″ patches
      2. Block B – Double Twist
        1. From white
          1. cut 3, 5″ wof strips
          2. cut each wof strip into 14 3″ pieces
          3. you should have 42, 3″x5″ rectangles
          4. sub-cut each rectangle once on the diagonal for a total of 84 triangles. *Mind the warning in block A
        2. From black
          1. cut 3, 4″ wof strips
          2. cut 2 wof strips into 17, 2 3/8″ x 4″ rectangles
          3. cut 8 more 2 3/8″ x 4″ rectangles from third strip. SAVE rest of strip.
          4. sub-cut each rectangle once on the diagonal for a total of 84 triangles. *Mind the warning in block A
        3. From charm squares
          1. trim 21 charms to 3 3/4″ squares
          2. SAVE TRIMMINGS
      3. Block C – Tiny Double Twists
        1. From black
          1. USE scrap from cutting of Block B (It should be around 23″ x 4″)
          2. cut 8, 2 1/4″ x 4″ rectangles
          3. sub-cut each rectangle once on the diagonal for a total of 16 triangles. *Mind the warning in block A
        2. From white
          1. cut 1, 1 3/4″ x wof strip
          2. cut 8, 3″ x 1 3/4″ rectangles from strip
          3. sub-cut each rectangle once on the diagonal for a total of 16 triangles. *Mind the warning in block A
        3. From charm trimmings saved when cutting Block B.
          1. You should have a pile of scraps measuring 1 1/2″ x 5″ and just as many measuring 1 1/2″ x 3 1/2″  (You have way more than are in my picture….38 more pieces actually.)
          2. Select 13 pieces and sew them together along their longest edge.  Like the picture below, only way bigger.
          3. Iron seams open
          4. Trim this pieced scrap to 13 ½” x 2 3/4″
          5. cut 4, 2 3/4″ squares
          6. This works well for A Stitch in Color. If you are using a different fabric line it might not. In that case cut these 2 3/4″ squares from your inner border fabric.
      4. Sashing
        1. From black
          1. cut 3, 6 ½” x wof strips
          2. cut 41, 1 ½” x 6 ½” rectangles (28 from one wof strip and 13 from a second.)
          3. SAVE rest of second strip with the third strip.
        2. From white
          1. Cut 2, 1 ½” x wof strips
          2. Sew white strips to black strips in step 4.1.3. along long edge.
          3. Iron seams toward the black
          4. Cut 30, 1 ½” x 7 ½” rectangles from pieced strips. These will look like black match sticks with white heads.
          5. SAVE the rest of the black and black/white bits for use in the inner border corner stones.
      5. Inner Border
        1. From bits saved in step 4.2.5.
          1. cut 4, 1 ½” squares
        2. From inner border fabric
          1. cut 5, 1 ½” x wof strips
      6. Outer Border
        1. From white
          1. cut 5, 4 ½” x wof strips
      7. Binding
        1. Cut 6, 2 ½” wof strips

    Time for a break. If you have completed all of this cutting and prepping, the rest of the quilt should go together easily. (I made mine at a retreat, in about 6 hours of dedicated sewing. )

      Piecing Directions:

        • Block A – Single Twist
        • The goal is to make 21 blocks like this one.  They will each have a different center.

        • Align a black triangle with the stubby angle 1/4″ over the edge of  a 5″ charm and the pointy angle 1/2″ over the parallel edge.
        • Sew 1/4″ seam along the long black edge.  If you are careful not to stretch the fabric, you don’t have to pin.
        • I’ve noticed that when using a machine with a 1/4″ foot, I can align my needle at the intersection of the two pieces and edge of the fabric right next to the flange of the foot and everything comes out where it should.  The seam will start and stop at where the edges of the fabric intersect.
        • Iron the seam toward the black.
        • Repeat on next side, 3 times until all four sides are added.
        • Trim to 6 1/2″ square.  Really.  Do this.  I sized the pieces so that they would be big – to make the piecing easier.  If you don’t trim them it won’t work right.
        • If you have a 6 1/2″ trimming square center the center so that as close to 1/4″ of black is between the points and the edge.
        • It is fine if it isn’t perfect.  Even if you sew a corner into the seam allowance when you piece the blocks together it will still look square.  The blocks are set in black – your eyes will fill in any corners that are missing.
        • Make 21.
      • Block B – Double Twist
        • The goal, again, is 21 blocks.
        • These will each have a different center and two twists.
        • Add the black triangle to the trimmed charm in the same manner that you added them to the whole charm for Block A.
        • Trim blocks to 5″ squares.
        • Add the white triangles just like you did the black ones in Block A.
        • Iron towards the white.
        • Trim to 6 1/2″ squares.
        • Make 21.
      • Block C – Tiny Double Twists
        • This block is  the corner stone for the outer most border.
        • Yeah, you make these just like you made blocks A and B…only the pieces are smaller and you start with the white triangles next to the center block.
        • After adding the first twist (white) trim the block to 3 1/2″ square.
        • After adding the second twist (black) trim the block to 4 1/2″ square.
        • Make 4.
      • Center
          • Arrange blocks in a  grid 6 blocks by 7 blocks alternating every other block.
          • NOTE: to my OCD friends this quilt does not come out even.  If you are really OCD you have already noticed this, and probably chosen not to make it…or you have altered the pattern.  If you aren’t then you are doing it right if only the corner blocks on one  side  match.
          • Step away from your arrangement and see if you still like it.  If you can’t get very far from it try taking a quick photograph of it with your cell phone.  Look at the picture to see if the distribution of colors pleases you.
          • If you have a design wall this is a good time to use it.  If you don’t there are other options.  You can put them on the floor or lay them on a bed.  You can close the drapes and pin your blocks to them.  Or use the shower curtain. Use your imagination.
          • You can also just wing it.  Random is good – but I haven’t met many people who are actually happy with random.
        • Vertical Sashing
          • Once you are happy with the layout sew a black “stick” to the right side of the first 5 blocks in each row.
          • Sew the rows together:
          • (block, stick)(block, stick)(block, stick)(block, stick)(block, stick)block
          • Iron seams toward the black sashing.
        • Next make the horizontal sashing.
          • You need to make 6 rows of horizontal sashing.
          • Sew 6 matchsticks together along the skinny side with the white block pointing toward the right.
          • Sew one plane stick on the end of the last match head.
          • Iron seams toward the black sticks.
          • Place one matchstick row between each row of blocks.
        • Attach horizontal sashing.
          • Snuggle sashing seams and pin in place
          • Iron seams toward horizontal sashing.
      • Borders
        • Inner border
          • Measure your quilt’s length and width.  Write it down.
          • It should be something like 41 1/2″ x 48 1/2″, give or take.
          • Sew one 1 1/2″ border strip to each of the skinny ends.
          • Iron seams toward the border.
          • Trim excess.
          • Sew the remaining three skinny strips together, end for end.
          • Cut two strips from this that are the length of your quilt as it was when you wrote it down.  (It should be 2″ shorter than the top is now.)
          • Sew a 1 1/2″ black square to the ends of each of these strips.  Iron seams toward the border strips.
          • Snuggle corner seams together.  Pin in place.
          • Pin remaining length of borders in place.
          • Sew on long borders.
          • Iron seams toward border fabric.
        • Outer border
          • Measure your quilt’s length and width. Write it down.
          • It should be something like 43 1/2″ x 50 1/2″, give or take.
          • Sew 4 1/2″ border strips together end for end….making one very long and skinny strip.
          • Cut 4 lengths from this strip that are equal to the measurements you just wrote down. (2 that are the length of the top and 2 that equal the width.)
          • Sew short edges of the border on first.
          • Iron seams toward the border.
          • Sew a tiny double twist square to each end of each of the long strips. Iron seams toward the border strips.
          • Snuggle corner seams together. Pin in place.
          • Pin remaining length of borders in place.
          • Sew on long borders.
          • Iron seams toward border fabric.
      • Layer and Quilt as desired.
      1 crib or throw sized quilt, finished size: 51 x 58

      Cindy Sharp