Finding the 4-Patches Quilt

Hi, I’m Dawn Cornell and today I have a cute quilt for you. It’s made with American Jane’s new line, Ducks in a Row. I call this quilt “Finding the 4-Patches” because it has a series of 4-patches in the main and secondary blocks. It’s all surrounded by a fun piano key border, making the most of two layer cakes and some beautiful Bella Solids.

Ready? Let’s sew!

2 Layer Cakes (I used “Ducks in a Row” by American Jane)
⅔ yard Bella Solids Lemon 9900-131, Green 9900-101, and Orange 9900-80
1 yard Bella Solids Cayene (red)  9900-256 and Cobalt (blue) 9900-227
1½ yards Bella Solids Black 9900-99 for sashing, border and binding.
5½ yards for Backing (21650-11 multi is a good choice)

Large 4-Patches

From the Bella Solids (except the black), cut:

  • 2 – 10″ x width of fabric (WOF) strips from the Lemon, Green and Orange
  • 3 – 10″ X WOF strips from the Red and Blue

Sub-cut these strips into 10″ squares, yielding 4 squares from each strip (for a total of 8 each lemon, green, and orange squares and 12 each red and blue squares)

Cut all the leftover Bella Solids from this step into 2″ x 10″ strips to use in the border.

Piecing the Large 4-Patches
Pair layer cakes with the solids as pictured below (each Layer Cake piece will yield 2 blocks).

You will make:
-2 red/green dot  and 4 red/lemon floral
-2 blue/red dot and 4 blue/red floral
-4 orange/blue floral
-4 lemon/black floral
-4 green/orange floral

This combination will make a total of 24 large 4-patches.

This quick piecing method for large 4-patches yields two 4-patches from each set you sew…With right sides together and the solid on top, stitch along the two side raw edges. Cut in half (5″ from the raw edge, not the sewn edges) and press to the solid.

Lay the two halves right sides together with the opposite fabrics touching and the center seam locking. Draw a line down the middle across the seam (5″ from the raw edge). Sew 1/4″ seam on each side of the drawn line. Cut on the line and voila you have two 4-patches. Press to one side and square to 9″.

NOTE: If you set your ruler on the center seam at 4 1/2″, trim top and side, turn block 180 degrees and do the same, the block will square evenly.

Pieced Blocks

Pair the layer cakes with the solids as pictured below (each layer cake piece will yield 2 blocks).


2 blue/red check and 4 blue/red multi print
2 red/green check and 4 red/green multi print
4 lemon/black multi print
4 orange/blue multi print
4 green/orange multi print

This combination will make a total of 24 pieced block units.

Layer right sides together, solid on the top, cut each double layer into 2″ strips (each set will yield 4 strips 2″ x 10″)

Repeat with each pair.

From these strip sets you will sub cut:

A – 2″ x 5″ strips

B –  2″ x 3½” strips

C –  2″ squares

A segments: Right sides together and solid on top, sew each segment on the short end as shown in photo above. Press to the solid. Should measure 2″ x 9½”.

B segments: Right sides together and solid on top, sew each segment on the long side as shown in photo above. Press to solid.

Sew these segments together with the print on top and under the needle first.This makes an elongated 4-patch. Press to one side. Should measure 3½” x 6½”

You will have a total of 48 – 4-patches when all sets are sewn

C segments: Right sides together, solid on top, sew each segment together press to the solid. Now sew two segments together with the print on top and under the needle first to make a 4 Patch. Press to one side. Should measure 3½” square.

You will have a total of 48 – 4-patches when all sets are sewn.

Sew two 4 Patch units together with the solid on top and under the needle first. Press to one side. Should measure 3½” x 6½”

Sew B units to top and bottom of  C units, right sides together along the 6½” side.

Note:  The two fabrics under the needle should be the same and the center seam should lock.

Press to one side. Should measure 6½” x 9½”.

Sew A units to each side of the above units along the 9½” side.

Note:  The two fabrics under the needle should be the same and the center seam should lock.

Press to one side. Should measure 9½”. If not square up the same way you did the large 4-patches.

Extra Large (XL) 4-Patches

Make XL 4-patches using the Pieced Blocks and the 4-Patch Blocks. Are you keeping up with how many 4-patches we’ve made so far?

Each of these 4-patch units should measure 17½” square and you will have a total of 12 XL 4-patches.

Sashing and Borders

Cut the Bella Solids black into 2″ x WOF strips. You will use 17 strips: 9 for sashing and 8 for the first border. Set aside the 8 border strips. Sub cut the 9 sashing strips into 2″ x 17½” strips. Yields 18 but you will only use 17.

From the layer cake print (white with black and red dots) cut 6 –  2″ squares for the corner stones.

Assemble the blocks, sashing, and corner stones in rows as shown below.

When assembled should measure 73″ x 54½”.

Making the First Border

Sew 8 Bella black border strips in sets of 2 to make 4 strips measuring 2″ x approximately 86″. Cut 2 strips 73″ long and 2 strips 58″ long. Attach the long strips to the sides of the quilt top first. Press towards the strip. Add the top and bottom borders strips and press towards the strips. The quilt top should now measure  76½” x 58.

Making the Second/Outer Border

From your remaining fabrics, set aside 2 white with black and red dots layer cake pieces and 1 black WOF strip for the corner blocks.

Cut all remaining 10″ squares from the layer cake and the solids into 2″ x 4½” strips. Piece together along the long sides of the strips, starting with red solid and ending with red solid.

Solid + Print + Solid + Print etc.

Piece together 51 total strips for each side and 39 total strips for the top and bottom. You may need to trim a little from each end to fit. Press strip sets and set aside.

Making the 4-Patch Corner Blocks

Cut the white dot and black dot layer cake squares into 2″ x 10″ strips (total of 5 strips from each layer cake square).

Sew a white strip to a black strip along the 10″ side. Make 2 of these units. Press towards the black strip. Sub cut into 2″ x 3½” segments. Sew together in pairs to make 4 – 4-patches. (More 4-patches! Are you counting?)

From the solid red, cut 4 strips measuring 2″ x 3½” strips and 4 strips measuring 2″ x 5¼”. Sew a short strip to the bottom of a black and white 4-patch and along strip to one of the sides as shown in photo above. Square to 4½”, trimming only on the red solid fabric. Make 4 of these units.

Attach the corners to each end of the top and bottom pieced border strips with the red to the outside.

Sew the long pieced border strip on the quilt first and press to the first border. Add the top and bottom borders.

If you are machine quilting, I suggest you stitch ⅛” seam around the out side edge of the border to stabilize the seams.

Quilt, Bind, and Enjoy!

76½” x 85″

Oh, by the way, how many 4-patches did you find in this quilt?

Dawn Cornell

Scrappy Scrunchies

Hello again! This is Karin from Cascade Quilts with a cute quick project for the girls on your Christmas list! These would make great stocking stuffers! I have to admit, I have a lot of hair scrunchies and I wear them often! They are easy and fun to make to coordinate with different outfits/holidays 🙂 Stop by my website where I will be having a giveaway for some of these adorable scrunchies AND a mini charm pack so someone can make a couple of their own!

For EACH scrunchie, you will need: 

  • 20 Moda Candy pieces (2½” squares) – I used ‘Wishes’ by Sweetwater, ‘From Outside In’ by Malka Dubrawski, and ‘Grant Park’ by Minick and Simpson
  • 7″ to 8” of ⅜” wide elastic 

This project works with other precuts, as well. Substitute the 20 Moda Candy pieces with:

  • 5 charm squares 
  • 1 jelly roll strip
  • Half of a dessert roll strip 

  • 2/3 yard lace or ric-rac for each scrunchie

 If you are using mini charms, sew your 20 mini charms into two rows of 10 mini charms and press.

If you are going to use lace or ric-rack, cut to length of your pieced strips and lay on one edge of the pieced strip with the edge you want showing facing IN and far enough from the edge that your 1/4” seam will not hide it all in the seam.

The large ric-rac works well as you can line it up JUST inside of the edge and 1/4” seam is pretty much right down the center of the ric-rac then.

Sew your 1/4” seam to encase the lace or ric-rac.  Press with right sides out.

 Optional: top stitch with a scant 1/8” seam

Now, you are going to make a tube with your strips.

Using a 1/4” seam, stitch your strips to form a tube.

Here is where it might get a little confusing.  Trust me, this works if you follow closely.  with the tube laying flat, take the center of the top of the tube and fold it in thirds.  You are just folding this to get it out of the way to stitch the bottom portion together without getting the top portion in the seam.

Now take the bottom section and fold it right sides together (you will be encasing the part you folded in thirds)

Now, start stitching your 1/4” seam, making SURE not to catch the inside material, you are only stitching the outside 2 edges together.

Once you get a few inches, you will need to start pulling the center out from the tube.

Keeping your needle down, just start pulling the center out and forward.  You might have to help it along near the rear of the needle too.  Line up the new edges you pulled through and continue sewing.

Sew a few inches, pull out a few inches…..

Continue sewing until you have a small opening 2-3” left.  Backstitch.  I know this seems confusing…. I, too, was unsure this was going to work when I sewed my first one.  But, believe me, it works!  And, the next one will be much easier after you ‘get’ it 🙂

Pull the whole fabric tube right side out.  The opening will be to feed the elastic through.

Totally optional – press your fabric tube.

Feed your elastic through the tube and tie the ends, then stitch the opening closed with as narrow seam as you can.

Viola!  One super cute scrappy scrunchie!  I have tried several different ways to sew scrunchies over the years, but this is by far my favorite way.

Or maybe two?

Or threeeeee????  I can’t stop!  This one was made with a jelly roll strip (cut in half at the fold, selvedges removed, then sewn in the same manner as the scrappy one).

One (or fifteen!) super cute hair scrunchie!

Head over to my website at Cascade Quilts to enter my giveaway for some of these scrunchies and a mini charm pack so you can make your own.

Layer Player Quilt

Welcome to another great tutorial from Quilted Works! One of our fantastic quilt designers, Julie Macfarlane, designed this quick and easy Layer Cake Quilt. She used the new fabric line by American Jane called “Pot Luck.”

  • 1 Layer Cake
  • 1/2 yard fabric for binding
  • 53″ x 60″ piece of batting
  • 2 1/2 yards fabric for quilt back

Select a Layer Cake. Divide the Layer Cake into 21 pairs, making sure that the fabrics coordinate well and create a contrast with each other.

Place two contrasting layer cake pieces right sides together and stitch 1/4″ seam along the two parallel sides. Then, also stitch a seam at 1 1/2″ (from the edge of the fabric) on these same sides.

Now we are going to cut two strips off of each side. First, cut 1 1/4″ from the edge, then move your ruler to cut a second 1 1/4″ strip. It helps to place the stitch line directly on the 1″ mark of your ruler. Do this to both sides, and you will end up with 4 strips.

Using the remaining center piece 5″x10″, stitch again at 1/4″ and 1 1/2″ on the short (5″) sides of the fabric. Trim them the same way as above. You will end up with 4 pieces.

To reassemble the blocks, first sew the short sides onto the center 5″ square, then press.

Next, trim the long strips to 8″ and sew onto the top/bottom of the blocks. Press your finished block.

The finished block size will be 8″ square. You will then begin laying the blocks out with 6 blocks across and 7 rows down. Every other block is rotated 90 degrees. Arrange the blocks to your liking and sew the rows together.

45″ x 52″ Quilt 

We hope you all have a great time making this quilt! For information on kits, please visit our website at
Barb Johnson with Julie Macfarlane for Quilted Works

Lattice Bones Quilt

Hi!  I’m Julie from 627handworks and I’m really excited to be sharing this quilt pattern with you.  The design was kind of an accident.  Originally I was playing with some ‘bone blocks’ I made out of strips and dreaming up a dog quilt for my spoiled pups. When I started twisting the blocks around I realized they made a lattice pattern.

This pattern is perfect for chain piecing and comes along pretty quickly if you make an assembly line of sorts.

1 Jelly Roll – Potluck by American Jane
1 Jelly Roll – Moda Bella Solids in Snow
4 yards of Moda Bella Solids in Mustard (backing)

Use leftover strips as a scrappy binding for your quilt

We will be using 1/4″ seam for all piecing and remember to press after sewing each piece.

Pull 32 Strips.  Each print will yield 2 blocks for a total of 64.

From each of the 32 prints cut:

  • Four 6.5″ strips, then
  • Four 2.5″ strips

Pull 37 Strips.

Take 29 solids and cut from each:

  • Nine 4.5″ strips

Take 8 solids and cut from each:

  • Sixteen 2.5″ strips


    • Four 4.5″ solid
    • Two 2.5″ solid
    • Two 2.5″ print
    • Two 6.5″ print

    Arrange your bone pattern.

    Sew the sides of the bones.

    Take your 6.5″ prints and lay a 4.5″ solid diagonally across the top.

    Mark it from corner to corner with a fabric pen, iron or finger press.

    Make sure your diagonal line is going the same way as pictured. If you want your diagonal to go the other way, you will need to place the excess of the solid fabric on the OPPOSITE side of print.  It doesn’t matter which way you choose, just be consistent so the seams on your blocks are all going the same way.

    Sew from corner to corner.  Open it up and make sure it creates one long piece. TRIM.

    Lay out your bone strips.

    Sew all the strips together.

    After you’ve created a few ‘bone blocks’ I recommend chain piecing.  

    You will have a total of 64 ‘bone’ blocks.  Take 4 blocks to sew into a ‘lattice bone’.

    Sew the top and bottom blocks together.

    Sew the sides together. Now you have a larger block. 

    Create 16 larger blocks.

    Sew into rows.

    Sew the rows together. 

    Use leftover prints to create a scrappy binding.

    If you make a Lattice Bones quilt please share it with me, I’d love to see it!

    64″ x 64″ Quilt

    Julie Hirt

    Sunday Potluck Quilt

    I’m very excited to be back at the Moda Bake Shop. This is a combination of a basic nine-patch and strip-piecing. I’ve created an over-sized 18″ block so it goes together quickly with strip piecing. The pattern is written for layer cakes, but you could also incorporate jelly rolls, as there are many 2.5″ strips. Potluck has an old-fashioned country charm and I can see this quilt being brought to Friday night football games or on a fall camping trip. Enjoy, and visit my blog for more tutorials.

    2 Layer Cakes: Potluck by American Jane
    2 1/4 yards of Bella Snow or light Bella solid
    4 1/2 yards backing fabric
    300 inches of binding using your preferred method
    Batting: 80″ x 80″

    Step 1: Block Centers
    Choose 16 squares from the Layer Cake for block centers. Cut into 6.5” squares.

    Step 2: Corner Nine Patches
    Cut 16 Layer Cake squares into 4 strips 2.5” x 10”
    Cut 20 solid strips 2.5” x width of fabric. Subcut into 80 strips 2.5” x 10”. 
    You’ll make 32 of strip set A and 16 of strip set B.
    Subcut into 128 strips 2.5” x 6.5”. 
    You will cut 4 strips per set.

    Subcut into 64 strips 2.5” x 6.5”.
    You will cut 4 strips per set.

    Stitch strips into 64 nine patch units 6.5″ x 6.5″
    Step 3: Rail Fence Units
    Choose 32 layer cake squares and arrange them into pairs of contrasting colors. Cut a 6.5″ x 10″ rectangle and then cut into 4 strips 6.5” x 2.5”. 
    Cut 11 strips 2.5” x width from bella solid fabric. Subcut into 64 strips 2.5” x 6.5”. 
    Stitch strips together as shown. You will create 4 rail fence units 6.5” x 6.5” from each pair of layer cake squares. Stitch a total of 64 Rail Fence units.

    Step 4: Assemble Blocks
    Lay out units as shown. Stitch into 3 rows, then stitch rows together to form block. Trim to 18.5” square. Stitch blocks together in a 4 x 4 layout to form a top 72” x 72”.

    Make a quilt sandwich, baste, quilt, square up, and bind using your preferred method.

    One 72″ x 72″ quilt

    Sara Peterson

    Herringbone Haul-It-All Tote with Jelly Rolls

    Hi, y’all!  This is Marion from  I am so excited to share this fun project with you here at the Moda Bakeshop!  I just started quilting a little bit ago, but I have been making bags for years.  They are one of my favorite projects to make 🙂 …especially ones with zippers some where in them ;D

    This tote is the perfect must-have bag for every need.  Haul around your hand sewing or maybe groceries.  Lug some books home from the library or clothes for an overnight.  This is particular bag is the first of two that I will share with you here at the Moda Bake Shop.  This one is more medium sized and made from jelly roll strips.  Watch for the second tutorial in a few weeks.  The Honeycomb Haul-It-All is larger and made with a honeycomb pre-cut.

    One of the beauties of this project is that one jelly roll will make several bag exteriors 😉  PARTY!  Break out a new jelly roll and create a few scrappy delights or use up left over jelly roll scraps you’ve got laying around in your stash.  So much fun to be had!

    1 jelly roll for the tote exterior & straps
    18″ x 28″ coordinating fabric for tote interior
    11.5″ x 18″ coordinating fabric for interior zipper pocket
    12″ x 20″ coordinating fabric for large interior pocket
    10″ zipper
    3/4 yard heavy weigh fusible interfacing 45″ wide ( I use Pellon 809)
    22″ x 32″ piece of batting

    Start out with your favorite jelly roll 🙂  This sweet pile of GORGEOUS is American Jane’s Potluck.
    I prefer to start by sorting my colors into piles 🙂

    To begin the chop chop, line up one edge of a jelly roll strip with a grid line on your cutting mat.

    Using Jaybird’s Hexy ‘n More ruler, line up the 4-1/2″ Triangle line on the ruler with the bottom edge of the jelly roll strip.  (You will note that the 1-1/2″ triangle line on the ruler will match up with a mat line to help you know you are doing it right 😉
    ***You may use any 60 degree triangle ruler or line on your ruler.  The wide bottom base is 5.5″ and the narrow top of the half hexy is 2.5″***

    Cut a total of 84 “half hexy” pieces. Two from each strip. 
    [Four of your remaining strips will be used for the straps]
    ***OCD Side Note- After all of  my pieces are cut, I prefer to separate my like prints into two piles of 42 each.  I work from one pile first and then the second to ensure better distribution of the prints in my project. …I then sort my two piles by color for more OCD fun 😉  Someday I will get brave and toss them all into a bag and go for true randomness.  If you try the random bag method, leave me a comment and let me know how it went 🙂 ***
    Now it’s time to line up your first few pieces as seen below.

    Are you ready to sew yet?  We are going to start with this first seam… the one I am pointing too 🙂

    Lay the small red flower print over the top of the green check, like so.  Make sure there is a 1/4″ over lap as seen below…see how the red floral print corner is hanging over the green check on the top-left of center edge?

    Then sew it up 🙂

    You will just need to sew to the edge of the green check.

    Press, and put back into your layout. 

    Take the next half hexy (the blue daisy here) and lay over the previously sewn piece.  

    Center it.  The bottom corner/points will poke over by about a 1/4 inch.  You want the new piece to poke over evenly on each side.

    Sew & press 🙂  Isn’t it looking fun?


    Oh NO!!! I hate it when my thread does that! :/

    Just keep sewing….

    …and sewing…

    Pretty soon, you will have them ALL sewn together into a beautiful long herringbone 🙂

    Now for those pesky ends…

    Line them up and chop them off! ….”OFF WITH THEIR HEADS”….or tails as it may be ;D

    Ta- Da!

    Now for the sort of tricky, but not too bad part 🙂  Take your LONG herringbone and fold it into even thirds, like below, except that you kinda cant tell that it is folded in thirds 🙂

    …but it is, see?

    …and from the other side.

    Get the thirds as equal as possible and bravely cut 🙂
    Lay them side by side to see how they look next to each other.  You may need to rearrange them a bit to get it right 🙂  Don’t worry too much about it, it will be GREAT!

    Ready to sew your rows?  (I recommend pinning for this process.  The edges of the rows are a bit biased and will stretch a titch.)
    Sew the rows, then press.

    Now, you have a choice to make, do you want your bag quilted or not?  If you want it quilted, here is your chance.  I decided to quilt mine.  I spray basted my pieced panel to some batting and straight line quilted it.

    I quilted it only with the top panel and batting, no backing, using a walking foot for the “straight” lines.  (I am a very “organic” straight line quilter… that means my lines are NOT very straight and even 🙂

    ….but I like them 🙂

    ****If you would prefer not to quilt it, you will need to use a heavy fusible interfacing on the back of your panel.  When I use fusible interfacing on pieced fabric, I cut my interfacing larger than the panel, fuse it to the panel and then square the panel.  (You will need a 1/2 yard more pellon)
    Are you ready for the interior?
    Fuse the interfacing to the back of the interior lining fabric.
    At this point you need to make sure that your interior lining fabric and your exterior quilted piece are the same size.  Trim as needed to make sure they are the same size.
    Lay your interior lining piece, right side up on your work surface. 

    Take your fabric for the zippered pocket and lay it right sides together on your interior lining fabric as shown.  Place the pocket fabric about 2″ below the top edge.

    Next you will need to draw a 1/2″ wide rectangle on the pocket fabric.

    It should be about an inch to an inch and a half away from the top and sides of the pocket fabric edge as shown below.  

    Pin and sew on the drawn skinny rectangle.

    Now for a bit of snip snip.

    Please cut carefully, with sharp scissor,s down the center of the long rectangle, through both layers of fabric, stopping a 1/2″ before the end.

    At the end, you will want to cut a “v” shaped cut up to, but not through, the corner stitching of the rectangle.

    Now, shove your pocket fabric through the new cut opening to the back side of the interior lining fabric.

    Get it all though 🙂

    …and press 🙂

    At this point, you may have to “make” the pocket lining behave.  
    Tug and press and don’t burn your fingers! 🙂

    Take your zipper and lay it behind your interior lining so you can see it.

    Carefully pin the zipper into place.  This can take a bit of patience, as the zipper sometimes likes to wiggle ;D 

    Carefully top stitch around the edge of the opening to attach the zipper.

    Yippee!  It’s in!

    A view from the back side.

    Now to sew up the zipper pocket.  Fold up the zippered pocket fabric so the bottom meets up with the top.

    Another shot.

    Pin only the pocket fabric together.  Do not pin the pocket fabric to the bag’s interior lining fabric.

    Fold back the interior lining fabric to expose the zippered pocket fabric.

    Sew shut using a 1/4″ seam allowance.

    Repeat for the other two sides of the zippered pocket.  (The bottom of the zippered pocket is a fold, so it won’t need to be sewn 🙂  BONUS!!!)

    Once your zippered pocket is all sewn shut, sew right along the top, top stitch seam above the zipper.

    This keeps the pocket from sagging inside the bag lining.

    Can I get a WHOOP WHOOP???  You just made a zippered pocket!!!

    Now for the long, interior pocket.  Fuse the fusible interfacing to the backside of the long interior pocket.

    Fold in half and press well.
    Put right sides together and sew the bottom seam.

    Flip right side out and press well, especially that thick bottom seam 🙂

    Take your interior lining fabric (yellow daisy’s) fold in half and press a crease in the bottom fold (you can see it in the picture below on the left).  
    ***for some reason I don’t have a picture of this next step, so I drew a diagram 🙂 …sorry, I’m not an artist :/ ***
    Take your interior pocket fabric (blue multi pezzy) and top stitch right along the top edge of the fold (opposite to the thick bottom seam you just pressed).  
    Now, lay you interior lining fabric (yellow daisy) on your work surface.  Place the long pocket (blue multi pezzy) across it with the thick seam at the bottom and the thin, folded, top stitched seam at the top.  The bottom [thick seam] should be about 2.5″ up from the fold you pressed into the center of the yellow daisy fabric.
    Pin in place.  Now, top stitch the pocket into place along the bottom, on the thick bottom seam.  Then top stitch on either edge, right along the edge (this will help when you are putting the bag together).  Next, top stitch two lines to form 3 pockets.  See diagram & picture below.

    Top stitching the bottom of the pocket onto the interior lining fabric.

    See the pressed fold on the left?
    If you look closely, you can see the top stitching that forms the pockets.
    See?  A pocket 🙂

    …and another 🙂

    Now to form the bag.  Ready?
    Fold your interior lining, right sides together, like so.  Stitch up one of the sides (using a half inch seam allowance).

    Stitch up the other side (also using a 1/2″ seam allowance), but leave a 4″ opening.  This opening needs to be at least 3-4″ from the top edge, and about 5″ from the bottom fold.

    Trim off your long pocket overages.

    For the exterior of the bag, place right sides together and sew up the sides as well using a 1/2″ seam allowance, but do not leave an opening in either of the sides 🙂
    At this point, I like to hold up my interior and exterior right next to each other to see if the side seams line up at the top with each other.  If they are within a scant 1/8″ inch of each other, no worries.  If the difference is bigger, hold tight, there is an easy fix on the way… just take in one of the side seams in the larger of the two 🙂 ….so lets say the interior lining is a 1/4″ bigger than the exterior, just take the side that doesn’t have the opening in it, and stitch a seam a 1/4″ in from the original seam.  Don’t worry about unstitching the first seam, it will be hidden inside the bag 🙂
    Now to set the corners.  Do this for the interior and the exterior of the bag.  With the wrong side out, put your hand inside the bag and form this triangle in the bottom of the bag on one side.  Be sure the side seam is straight up and down as shown below.  Using a ruler, put the 2.5″ line at the point of the triangle.
    Draw a line.  Stitch along that line.

    Do this for both corners, in both the lining and the exterior.

    ***Some people prefer to cut off the little triangles after making the corners, I prefer to leave them for extra stability.***

    Say, “Aaaahhh!”

    Strap Construction
    Select four jelly roll strips to form the straps. [After cutting off two half hexies from a jelly roll strip in the beginning, the left over strip is perfect for a strap.]  Each strap will have two sides, one that I will call the outside (blue) and the other, the inside (red and green chick fabric).
    Fuse interfacing to each of the outside/blue strap pieces.  Place one outside/blue and one inside/chick strip right sides together, stitch together using a 1/4″ seam.  Do this for both straps.

    Stitch a basting seam along one end for turning.

    Turn the strap right side out..  (I use a chop stick or a knitting needle for this fun business.)


    Top stitch as desired.  I did three rows of stitching for mine.
    Trim straps to the same length. …about 33″ long each.
    Bag Assembly

    Turn interior lining right side out.

    Place the interior lining into the [inside out] exterior bag, like so.

    Snuggle it down in there good 🙂

    Pin straps in place.  For this bag, I center the straps on the herringbone seams.  Make sure the straps extend about a 1/2″ above the edge of the bag.  [The fabric that is touching the exterior bag fabric will be the strap fabric you see primarily.]
    Pin well.

    Make sure that your side seams match up.  Pin well. [I usually do not sew the side seams open, but when the exterior is quilted, it is sometimes easier to do it that way.]

    Stitch around the top using a generous 1/2″ seam allowance.

    After you have sewn the top seam, go back and do some wide zig-zag stitches on the straps for reinforcement.

    Carefully reach inside the side seam that you left open and turn the bag right side out.
    After tucking in the seam allowances and finger pressing, carefully pin and sew the side seam shut.  I use a narrow zig-zag, but you may straight stitch or hand sew it shut if you like.

    My narrow zig-zag.

    Once your bag is all turned, top stitch a 1/4″ around the top edge of the bag.

    Voila!!!  Pretty tote for all of your needs 🙂

    One SUPER cute medium-ish sized Haul-It-All Tote 🙂

    Tote size- 11″ tall by 17″ wide.  The bottom of the bag is 5.25″ wide.

    One large zippered pocket and a large triple side pocket.

    These chicks are TOO cute!!!

    Be sure to come by in a few weeks to see another way to make this bag using other Moda pre-cuts!  The second bag is even BIGGER and just as fabulous!!!!

    When you make yours, be sure to post it to Instagram be sure to tag me @myquiltdiet and hash tag it #haulitalltote 🙂  I can’t wait to see your bags!
    Marion McClellan

    Pezzy Lattice Quilt

    Hi Everyone!  I’m Amanda Castor from Material Girl Quilts and I am absolutely thrilled to share my first Moda Bake Shop project with you today.
    I made this Pezzy Lattice Quilt for a very special teenage boy and am pleased with the way it turned out.  I think the design works great with the Pezzy Prints, but can imagine it used with so many other Moda fabric lines. 
    1 – Layer cake (I used Pezzy Print by American Jane)
    *3 yds for background (if less than 42″ wide you will need 3.5 yds) – (I used Moda Bella Silver)
    *4 yds for backing – (I used Deck Chairs Stripe in Summer from the Salt Air line)
    *½ yd binding
    At least 66″ x 78″ batting
    6 ½” square grid ruler
    *For this quilt I chose to use only 30 of the layer cake squares (I knew he wouldn’t want pink in his quilt and I didn’t use brown by my choice).  If you would like to use more squares, you will need to adjust the amount of background, backing and binding fabric as necessary.  Using all 42 squares would give you a quilt with 12 blocks across and 14 rows total and the final size would be approx. 72″ x 84″. 
    All seams are ¼”
    1)   Select 30 layer cake squares and cut into four 2 ½” x 10″ strips each.  This will result in 120 strips.  I chose 3 squares of each color selected.

    2)  Cut 120 6″ squares from the background fabric.

    3)  Cut along one diagonal of each 6″ background square creating two backing triangles.

    4)  Each block will consist of one 2 ½” x 10″ strip and two background triangles.

    5)  Place one of the triangles RST (right-sides together) roughly centered onto the strip and stitch (to make this go quickly, I chain pieced the first triangle onto each strip before adding the second triangle)

    6)  Add the second triangle to the opposite side of the strip and chain piece as before.
    7)  Set your seams and press towards the backing fabric.
    8)  Place your 6 ½” square grid ruler on top of the blocks and square up, trimming away all excess fabric, leaving you with a 6 1/2″ block.  **You should take your time with this step, the squaring up is key to having matching points when you piece the blocks together!! 
    9)  Now lay out your blocks to determine your desired look.  You can choose to have the corners start in an X or diamonds like mine.  I chose to create “columns” of each color instead of a random pattern. 
    10)  Once you have chosen your final layout design, sew each of your blocks together row by row until it is done.  The key to achieving perfect points is also in the pinning.  Match each seam as shown below before sewing each block together.
    11)  Layer with backing and batting and quilt as desired.  I created a smaller “lattice” design on mine.

    One 60″ x 72″ Pezzy Lattice quilt perfect for snuggling under.

    Amanda Castor
    {Material Girl Quilts}

    School Days Charm Quilt

    It’s Cindy from Tops to Treasure with you on the Moda Bake Shop today. When I was a little girl, my great great aunt lived with us.  She wore baggy dresses with big pockets, dresses that buttoned down the front.  She kept tissues in those pockets (candy would have impressed me more.)  As I put this quilt together I thought about her dresses.  My mom made them all and it seems they were all made of little floral prints.  I think Aunt Mame would have liked this fabric line – American Jane’s “ABC 123”.

    Mame was born, and died, in September, the month when thoughts turn back to school, reading, writing, and arithmetic.  Half of the people I know can’t wait for school to start… little children, ready for a new adventure; and moms ready for their older kids to get out from under foot.  The other half….not so much.  Whichever camp you fall in this quilt is perfect for the adventures waiting around the bend.  It is easy,  I promise, and goes together fairly quickly.  I got my fabric Friday, starting cutting on Sunday and Tuesday afternoon the top is finished and ready for the quilter.  (During that time I also washed, folded, and put away 7 loads of laundry, and had a doctors appointment that started at least 30 minutes later than scheduled…and there was no one else in the office.)

    I hope you enjoy my pattern as much as I enjoyed making it.

    3 charm packs American Jane “ABC 123”
    1 1/4 yds dark fabric (includes inner border) – I chose the cream letters on black # 21623-18
    1 yd light fabric – I used Bella Solid #9900-11 
    1 1/4 yds for outer border – I chose the large blue floral #21624-12
    ½ yd for binding (cut 2 ½” wide) – I used the solid blue plaid #21625-20

    3 1/4 yds for backing

    4 1/2 square ruler – it doesn’t matter whose ruler…I like one that has lines making an “x” from corner to corner.  The lines help me straighten up my blocks as I trim them.

    You are going to make 12, 12″ finished blocks set squarely in a 3 x 4 grid. Then you will add three borders. The first, most inner border is pieced and blends into the block section of the quilt finishing off the secondary pattern of pinwheels.

    The instructions are presented in four parts – cutting, block construction, center construction, and border construction.  The cutting instructions will tell you which part you are cutting for. This way you can either cut them and then set them aside (When I do this I put the sections in Ziploc baggies and label them. It keeps them all nice and neat and I know what they were for when I come back later and can’t remember what I was doing.) Or you can cut them as you are ready to use them.

    Cutting Instructions:

    Block Cutting Directions: (17 pieces per block for a total of 204 pieces)
    From dark fabric – cut 12, 5 1/4 inch squares. Sub-cut each square twice diagonally into 4 small triangles for a total of 48 small triangles.

    From light  fabric – cut 12, 5 1/4 inch squares. Sub-cut each square twice diagonally into 4 small triangles for a total of 48 small triangles.

    From Charms select 24 squares and sub-cut them each once diagonally into 2 large triangles for a total of 48 large triangles for corner blocks.  If possible choose charms that do not read the same color as the dark and light that you have chosen.

    From your Charms select 60 squares and trim them to 4 1/2″ square for center and edge blocks

    Border Cutting directions:
    Inner most border:

    (32 corner patches of 3 pieces each + 14 charm patches = a total of 110 pieces)
    from dark fabric – cut 8, 5 1/4 inch squares. Sub-cut each square twice diagonally into 4 small triangles for a total of 32 small triangles.

    from light fabric – cut 8, 5 1/4 inch squares. Sub-cut each square twice diagonally into 4 small triangles for a total of 32 small triangles.

    from Charms select 16 squares and sub-cut them each once diagonally into 2 large triangles for a total of 32 large triangles for corner blocks.

    from Charms select 14 squares and trim them to 4 1/2″ square for center and edge blocks

    Skinny border:cut 7 strips, 1 ½” x width of fabric (WOF)

    Outer most border:cut 7 strips, 4 ½” x WOF

    The Blocks
    This is a 9-patch block made of whole patches in the center and edges. The corners are pieced with a identical bi-colored triangles which create a secondary pinwheel pattern when several blocks are set together.  I designed it and presented it first to my best friend as one of a block of the month series and later to my local quilt guild.  For the guild, we were all very tired, and so I named it “Brain Dead”.  You can find patterns for more blocks like this on my blog Quilty Friends.

    Block Piecing:
    Corner Patch:
    Sew one dark and one light small triangle together to make a large triangle.

    Being careful not to warp the triangles, iron seams open.

    BE CAREFUL TO MAKE THEM ALL THE SAME – it is very easy to get these going in the wrong directions. If you are careful to always sew in the same direction with the pieces in the same place you should be alright.  I suggest chain piecing these.  If you do them all at once it is easier to do them all the same.

    Make 48

    Using the right angle to align the pieces, sew each two colored triangle to a large triangle cut from charms.

    Trim the excess seam allowance (This should be all from the large, single fabric, triangle.)

    Being careful not to warp the triangles, iron seams toward the large triangle.

    Trim to 4 1/2 inches square.  Really, i am totally serious.  Do this step!  It doesn’t look like much, but every little bit adds up.  I use my ruler that has a big “x” on it.  Aline the seams with the lines of the “x” to make sure that the block is squared correctly.  It will help your pinwheel points meet in the center when you finally put all of the blocks together.

    This is what I trimmed off of my blocks.

    I really hate this step.  It is tedious and boring.  BUT I love the results.  I think you will too.

    Make 48.


    Take 4 corner patches and 5 trimmed charm squares and arrange them like the picture above.
    Sew them in rows of three.

    Rows 1 & 3 can be made with the same orientation. (You just turn one of the rows up side down when you put the block together.) Be careful here. Yes it is simple – so simple that it is easy to turn a corner the wrong direction. Unstitching is no fun….so take your time the first time.

    Row 2 is just 3 random charms sewn together in a row of 3. (This row is so simple that when I introduced the block to my guild I named it “Brain Dead”.)

    Make 12 blocks.

    I like to lay all of my blocks out before I start sewing the rows together.  It helps me get things balanced.

    This is where I started….

    It would be perfectly fine to leave them this way.  I wanted my center colors distributed more evenly.  I don’t like the two black centers together on the left hand column, or the two reds on the bottom row.

    Change the blocks around to suit you.

    Sew blocks together in 3 rows of 4.

    Sew rows together.

    The Borders:
    There are 3 borders. 

    Border Piecing Directions:
    Inner most border piecing:
    Following the directions already given for the piecing of the block’s corner patch, make 32 corner patches.

    Now, you are going to take the corner patches and trimmed charms to make 4 strips of blocks. 2 that are 11 patches long and 2 that are 12 patches long. Use the border diagram to determine how to orient the blocks.

    Attach the 12 patch strips to the long edges of the center.  The corner patches should like up with the corner patches of the center blocks and create three new pinwheels on each side.

    Attach the 11 patch strips to the short edges of the center.  The corner patches should, again line up with the corner patches of your center.  This time you should have 4 new pinwheels on each end.

    Skinny border piecing:
    I know that this is not the “approved” method, and the Quilt Police will probably hunt me down and shoot me, but this is how I do it.  If you are gentle with your handling of the pieces it will work just fine without pinning anything or cutting the pieces precisely.  If you are a man handler of fabric measure and cut your borders to the size you need, then pin them and sew as usual.

    Sew 2 sets of 2 WOF strips together to make long sides of skinny border.

    Cut 1 WOF strip in half, making 2 1 1/2″x 21″ (give or take) strips.

    Sew 2 sets of 1 WOF + 1/2 WOF strips together to make short sides of skinny border.

    Attach skinny borders to quilt, then trim excess.

    Outer most border piecing:
    Repeat process from skinny borders using 4 1/2″ wof strips everywhere you used 1 1/2 before.

    One awesome, super scrappy quilt measuring 54 x 66 inches.

    It would be great for a couch or child’s bed.  You can also make it larger, say for a twin sized bed, by adding more blocks (See the note at the end of this post for yardage requirements)

    For Your Information

    Just in case you want to make it bigger…or smaller…here are some helpful facts.

    This pattern required one 5 1/4″ square of dark, one 5 1/4″ square of light, and two 5″ charms to complete one secondary pinwheel pattern. For this project there are 20 pinwheels – so you need 20 dark, 20 light, and 40 charms to complete the corner blocks.

    Each completed block requires an additional 5 charms.  This project has 12 blocks, so you needed 60 charms for the block piecing.

    The pieced border requires one charm for each edge of a block that it touches.  For a 3 x 4 grid you have two edges of three and two edges of four….so 6 + 8 or 14 charms.

    Soooooo, if you want to make this pattern bigger….say 4×6 blocks (which would finish at something like 66″x90″ or a skinny twin.)  you would need….

    40 pinwheels – requiring 40 dark, 40 light, and 80 charms
    24 blocks – requiring 120 charms
    and 20 charms for the border.

    That is 220 charms (6 packs of 42 would do it.) 

    Cindy Sharp
    {Tops to Treasure}

    Easy Pezzy Crib Quilt


    Hello Friends! This is Alyssa from Pile O’ Fabric. My goal at Pile O’ Fabric is to connect with fellow quilters, and inspire them to continue learning, to step out of their comfort zone, try new techniques, join new events, try new products, and fall even more in love with quilting than they were. And Conquer that Pile O’ Fabric!

    I am very excited to be sharing my very first Moda Bakeshop Recipe with you all today. The Easy Pezzy Crib Quilt. This quilt just like the name is very easy and can be made quickly. It would make a wonderful gift for a new baby!


    for Quilt Top

    • 1 Pezzy Print Charm Pack by American Jane for Moda 
    • 1 2012 Bella Solids Charm Pack for Moda
    • 1 New Bella Solids Charm Pack for Moda
    • 1 Dark Bella Solids Charm Pack for Moda
    • 25″ x 5″ piece of white solid (cut into 5 charms for applique background)

    for Appliqué

    • fabric scraps 2 1/2” or larger
    • 1/2 yard HeatnBond Light iron-on adhesive
    • freezer paper
    • appliqué templates (download here)

    for Finishing

    • 2 1/2 yards fabric of your choice for backing
    • 1/3 yard Bella Solids in Christmas Red for binding
    • Crib size batting (45” x 60”)

    This quilt can be made with our without the Appliqué section, depending on the look you want to achieve.

    First you will begin by laying out your charms alternating one Pezzy Charm with one coordinating Solid Charm.


    If you plan to add the Appliqué section you will layout your charms 8 x 11, with 5 white charms for the background. Otherwise if not layout your charms 8 x 10.


    Once you have your final layout label and seperate each row piles.


    Starting with row #1 piece each charm together with a 1/4″ seam.


    Now we will press our seams and trim the thread tails.


    Press your seams to one direction for each row, alternating directions per row. For example Row #1 press seams to right, Row #2 press seams to left and so on. This will help assure your squares line up when sewing.


    Pin your first two rows with seams together.


    Sew the pinned rows together with a 1/4“seam allowance.


    Continue to sew your rows together until you reach your Appliqué row.

    Appliqué Section
    If you plan to skip the appliqué section, then you can skip these instructions and continue to piece your rows together.

    Print your templates on printer paper. Next trace the template onto the paper side of your freezer paper. (if you have printer friendly freezer paper than print the template directly onto the freezer paper) Cut all your templates out of the freezer paper and set aside.


    Following the directions on the HeatnBond packaging, press your fabric scraps to the HeatnBond.


    Layout your freezer paper templates onto the fabric scraps and press with a hot dry iron.


    Cut each template out.


    Remove the freezer paper from front of your template. The wonderful thing about freezer paper is you can reuse it multiple times. So I put all my templates into a Ziploc bag to save for future projects. Then remove the HeatnBond paper backing and throw away.


    Position letters shiny side down on your white appliqué section, then press with a hot dry iron.


    Sew along the edges of the appliqué with your choice stitch. I chose to use the zig-zag stitch in a beige thread.


    You will have a lot of thread tails leftover. Don’t just cut them short. Thread a quilting needle with the thread tails, and pull thread to the back of the fabric.


    Tie a knot, and then trim your thread tail.


    Once you complete your appliqué section, finish piecing all your rows together until your quilt top is complete.


    Continue on and baste your quilt, with your favorite basting technique. I myself like to spray baste my quilts.


    Then quilt with your pattern of choice. I chose to quilt 1/4” on the left and right side of all my seams. And then for my appliqué section I quilted diagonal lines 1/2” apart using painters tape.


    Continue on and bind the quilt with your preferred binding technique. For quilts I plan to wash often I machine stitch the binding.


    And you are done!

    One Easy Pezzy Crib Quilt
    35″ x 48 1/2

    Gift it or Love it, Cuddle it and Enjoy it!


    Are you a beginner quilter looking for more details on how to quilt, baste, and bind? Monday June 25 at Pile O’ Fabric a Beginners Quilting Series starts which will go through every step to creating today’s featured quilt. We will talk about tools/notions, fabric shopping, layout/design, piecing, basting, quilting, binding, tagging, and washing. And for more quilting and sewing tutorials, reviews, inspiration and encouragement, come visit me at Pile O’ Fabric!

    If you use this tutorial to make a Easy Pezzy Crib Quilt, I’d love to see it!  Be sure to add it to my Flickr group, and of course to the Moda Bake Shop Flickr group as well.  Thanks for stitching along!

    Pile O' Fabric

    Alyssa Lichner
    {Pile O’ Fabric}

    Pez-O-Rama Quilt

     Hello Everyone! It’s Crystal Hendrix from over at Hendrixville where I talk about my crazy life with kids with Autism and what I keep myself busy with!

    I saw this line and was immediately so happy with how bright it was! I was inspired to create a simple quilt that would fit on my bed. We see so many quilts but how many can we use them on a daily basis? This one you can! It’s a perfect quilt to try for beginners who might be a little afraid to approach a larger quilt!

    3 Fat Quarter Bundles Pezzy Print by American Jane (I know it’s a lot but we use almost every inch of it!)
    1 Charm Pack Pezzy Print by American Jane (This is used for the back piecing)
    6 1/4 yards 216051 23 (black fabric – backing)

    We first want to take our fat quarter pieces and iron them out, so that there is no crease and then fold them lengthwise.

    Trim it down to 21″.

    Then cut the 21″ piece into two 10.5″ pieces.

    Now we have 2 pieces (from each fat quarter) that are 10.5″ x 18″. Open them up and iron them if needed (by ironing them it guaranties a better cut – therefore making your sewing a lot easier later on.)

    Now you trim the 2 pieces down to 15″. This will give you a total of 2 – 15″x10.5″. Now make sure that you save your 3″ strip. We will use this later for our binding.

    When cutting out your fat  quarters, I used all the pieces except for the black pieces. This gives you a total of 11 different colors. Eight of your colors you will need a total of 6 – 10.5″x15″ ( 3 fat quarter pieces) and three of your colors you will need a total of 5 –  10.5″x15″ ( 2 1/2 fat quarters).

    Now we will assembling our quilt top (see how fast and easy this is?) You can create any random or nonrandom design that you desire. Our layout will be 9 x 7. First sew the rows together…

    Then sew your 7 rows together…

    Viola! You have your very “large” quilt top all done. 
    Now for the back of the quilt I decided to do something a little different. You can use your leftover pieces of your fat quarters and the charm pack to give your back the best look.

    For the back, piecing will be rather easier this way too. Cut 4 – 42″x34″ pieces and 2 – 42″ x32″ pieces. This is the black yardage.

    For the middle section, you will need a total of 44 – colored 5″ squares (don’t use the black charm pieces from the charm pack – use your leftover fat quarter pieces instead) and 22 – black 9.5″x5″ pieces.

    Sew the two colored charm pieces together and press, and then sew it to the bottom black piece.

    Sew 11 pieces together for one row, and then another 11 pieces together for the bottom row. When assembling them (see diagram above) you will want to sew together the 2 rows so that the black pieces are being sandwiched by the colored blocks.

    Once you have finished your back piece, baste quilt and bind as desired. Use your leftover 3″x10.5″ as your binding pieces. You can either trim them down to 2.5″x10.5″ or keep them as they are. Sew together ALL of the 10.5″ pieces together for your binding.

    An approximately 90.5″x102″ bright and colorful quilt perfect for Spring! 

    I hope you enjoy making this quilt as much as I did! I would love to see your own quilts! Feel free to email me with any questions and of course your beautiful quilts! (
    Crystal Hendrix