Finding the 4-Patches Quilt


Hi, I’m Dawn Cornell and today I have a cute quilt for you. It’s made with American Jane’s new line, Ducks in a Row. I call this quilt “Finding the 4-Patches” because it has a series of 4-patches in the main and secondary blocks. It’s all surrounded by a fun piano key border, making the most of two layer cakes and some beautiful Bella Solids.

Ready? Let’s sew!

2 Layer Cakes (I used “Ducks in a Row” by American Jane)
⅔ yard Bella Solids Lemon 9900-131, Green 9900-101, and Orange 9900-80
1 yard Bella Solids Cayene (red)  9900-256 and Cobalt (blue) 9900-227
1½ yards Bella Solids Black 9900-99 for sashing, border and binding.
5½ yards for Backing (21650-11 multi is a good choice)

Large 4-Patches
Cutting

From the Bella Solids (except the black), cut:

  • 2 – 10″ x width of fabric (WOF) strips from the Lemon, Green and Orange
  • 3 – 10″ X WOF strips from the Red and Blue

Sub-cut these strips into 10″ squares, yielding 4 squares from each strip (for a total of 8 each lemon, green, and orange squares and 12 each red and blue squares)

Cut all the leftover Bella Solids from this step into 2″ x 10″ strips to use in the border.

Piecing the Large 4-Patches
Pair layer cakes with the solids as pictured below (each Layer Cake piece will yield 2 blocks).

You will make:
-2 red/green dot  and 4 red/lemon floral
-2 blue/red dot and 4 blue/red floral
-4 orange/blue floral
-4 lemon/black floral
-4 green/orange floral

This combination will make a total of 24 large 4-patches.

This quick piecing method for large 4-patches yields two 4-patches from each set you sew…With right sides together and the solid on top, stitch along the two side raw edges. Cut in half (5″ from the raw edge, not the sewn edges) and press to the solid.

Lay the two halves right sides together with the opposite fabrics touching and the center seam locking. Draw a line down the middle across the seam (5″ from the raw edge). Sew 1/4″ seam on each side of the drawn line. Cut on the line and voila you have two 4-patches. Press to one side and square to 9″.

NOTE: If you set your ruler on the center seam at 4 1/2″, trim top and side, turn block 180 degrees and do the same, the block will square evenly.

Pieced Blocks
Cutting

Pair the layer cakes with the solids as pictured below (each layer cake piece will yield 2 blocks).

Make:

2 blue/red check and 4 blue/red multi print
2 red/green check and 4 red/green multi print
4 lemon/black multi print
4 orange/blue multi print
4 green/orange multi print

This combination will make a total of 24 pieced block units.

Layer right sides together, solid on the top, cut each double layer into 2″ strips (each set will yield 4 strips 2″ x 10″)

Repeat with each pair.

From these strip sets you will sub cut:

A – 2″ x 5″ strips

B –  2″ x 3½” strips

C –  2″ squares

A segments: Right sides together and solid on top, sew each segment on the short end as shown in photo above. Press to the solid. Should measure 2″ x 9½”.

B segments: Right sides together and solid on top, sew each segment on the long side as shown in photo above. Press to solid.

Sew these segments together with the print on top and under the needle first.This makes an elongated 4-patch. Press to one side. Should measure 3½” x 6½”

You will have a total of 48 – 4-patches when all sets are sewn

C segments: Right sides together, solid on top, sew each segment together press to the solid. Now sew two segments together with the print on top and under the needle first to make a 4 Patch. Press to one side. Should measure 3½” square.


You will have a total of 48 – 4-patches when all sets are sewn.

Sew two 4 Patch units together with the solid on top and under the needle first. Press to one side. Should measure 3½” x 6½”

 
Sew B units to top and bottom of  C units, right sides together along the 6½” side.

Note:  The two fabrics under the needle should be the same and the center seam should lock.

Press to one side. Should measure 6½” x 9½”.

Sew A units to each side of the above units along the 9½” side.

Note:  The two fabrics under the needle should be the same and the center seam should lock.

Press to one side. Should measure 9½”. If not square up the same way you did the large 4-patches.

Extra Large (XL) 4-Patches

Make XL 4-patches using the Pieced Blocks and the 4-Patch Blocks. Are you keeping up with how many 4-patches we’ve made so far?

Each of these 4-patch units should measure 17½” square and you will have a total of 12 XL 4-patches.

Sashing and Borders

Cutting
Cut the Bella Solids black into 2″ x WOF strips. You will use 17 strips: 9 for sashing and 8 for the first border. Set aside the 8 border strips. Sub cut the 9 sashing strips into 2″ x 17½” strips. Yields 18 but you will only use 17.

From the layer cake print (white with black and red dots) cut 6 –  2″ squares for the corner stones.

Piecing
Assemble the blocks, sashing, and corner stones in rows as shown below.

When assembled should measure 73″ x 54½”.

Making the First Border

Sew 8 Bella black border strips in sets of 2 to make 4 strips measuring 2″ x approximately 86″. Cut 2 strips 73″ long and 2 strips 58″ long. Attach the long strips to the sides of the quilt top first. Press towards the strip. Add the top and bottom borders strips and press towards the strips. The quilt top should now measure  76½” x 58.

Making the Second/Outer Border

From your remaining fabrics, set aside 2 white with black and red dots layer cake pieces and 1 black WOF strip for the corner blocks.

Cut all remaining 10″ squares from the layer cake and the solids into 2″ x 4½” strips. Piece together along the long sides of the strips, starting with red solid and ending with red solid.

Solid + Print + Solid + Print etc.

Piece together 51 total strips for each side and 39 total strips for the top and bottom. You may need to trim a little from each end to fit. Press strip sets and set aside.


Making the 4-Patch Corner Blocks

Cut the white dot and black dot layer cake squares into 2″ x 10″ strips (total of 5 strips from each layer cake square).

Sew a white strip to a black strip along the 10″ side. Make 2 of these units. Press towards the black strip. Sub cut into 2″ x 3½” segments. Sew together in pairs to make 4 – 4-patches. (More 4-patches! Are you counting?)

From the solid red, cut 4 strips measuring 2″ x 3½” strips and 4 strips measuring 2″ x 5¼”. Sew a short strip to the bottom of a black and white 4-patch and along strip to one of the sides as shown in photo above. Square to 4½”, trimming only on the red solid fabric. Make 4 of these units.

Attach the corners to each end of the top and bottom pieced border strips with the red to the outside.

Sew the long pieced border strip on the quilt first and press to the first border. Add the top and bottom borders.

If you are machine quilting, I suggest you stitch ⅛” seam around the out side edge of the border to stabilize the seams.

Quilt, Bind, and Enjoy!


76½” x 85″

Oh, by the way, how many 4-patches did you find in this quilt?

Dawn Cornell

Scrappy Scrunchies


Hello again! This is Karin from Cascade Quilts with a cute quick project for the girls on your Christmas list! These would make great stocking stuffers! I have to admit, I have a lot of hair scrunchies and I wear them often! They are easy and fun to make to coordinate with different outfits/holidays 🙂 Stop by my website where I will be having a giveaway for some of these adorable scrunchies AND a mini charm pack so someone can make a couple of their own!


For EACH scrunchie, you will need: 

  • 20 Moda Candy pieces (2½” squares) – I used ‘Wishes’ by Sweetwater, ‘From Outside In’ by Malka Dubrawski, and ‘Grant Park’ by Minick and Simpson
  • 7″ to 8” of ⅜” wide elastic 


This project works with other precuts, as well. Substitute the 20 Moda Candy pieces with:

  • 5 charm squares 
  • 1 jelly roll strip
  • Half of a dessert roll strip 

  • 2/3 yard lace or ric-rac for each scrunchie

 If you are using mini charms, sew your 20 mini charms into two rows of 10 mini charms and press.

If you are going to use lace or ric-rack, cut to length of your pieced strips and lay on one edge of the pieced strip with the edge you want showing facing IN and far enough from the edge that your 1/4” seam will not hide it all in the seam.

The large ric-rac works well as you can line it up JUST inside of the edge and 1/4” seam is pretty much right down the center of the ric-rac then.

Sew your 1/4” seam to encase the lace or ric-rac.  Press with right sides out.

 Optional: top stitch with a scant 1/8” seam

Now, you are going to make a tube with your strips.

Using a 1/4” seam, stitch your strips to form a tube.

Here is where it might get a little confusing.  Trust me, this works if you follow closely.  with the tube laying flat, take the center of the top of the tube and fold it in thirds.  You are just folding this to get it out of the way to stitch the bottom portion together without getting the top portion in the seam.

Now take the bottom section and fold it right sides together (you will be encasing the part you folded in thirds)

Now, start stitching your 1/4” seam, making SURE not to catch the inside material, you are only stitching the outside 2 edges together.

Once you get a few inches, you will need to start pulling the center out from the tube.

Keeping your needle down, just start pulling the center out and forward.  You might have to help it along near the rear of the needle too.  Line up the new edges you pulled through and continue sewing.

Sew a few inches, pull out a few inches…..

Continue sewing until you have a small opening 2-3” left.  Backstitch.  I know this seems confusing…. I, too, was unsure this was going to work when I sewed my first one.  But, believe me, it works!  And, the next one will be much easier after you ‘get’ it 🙂

Pull the whole fabric tube right side out.  The opening will be to feed the elastic through.

Totally optional – press your fabric tube.

Feed your elastic through the tube and tie the ends, then stitch the opening closed with as narrow seam as you can.

Viola!  One super cute scrappy scrunchie!  I have tried several different ways to sew scrunchies over the years, but this is by far my favorite way.

Or maybe two?

Or threeeeee????  I can’t stop!  This one was made with a jelly roll strip (cut in half at the fold, selvedges removed, then sewn in the same manner as the scrappy one).


One (or fifteen!) super cute hair scrunchie!

Head over to my website at Cascade Quilts to enter my giveaway for some of these scrunchies and a mini charm pack so you can make your own.

cascadequilts.com

Layer Player Quilt


Welcome to another great tutorial from Quilted Works! One of our fantastic quilt designers, Julie Macfarlane, designed this quick and easy Layer Cake Quilt. She used the new fabric line by American Jane called “Pot Luck.”

  • 1 Layer Cake
  • 1/2 yard fabric for binding
  • 53″ x 60″ piece of batting
  • 2 1/2 yards fabric for quilt back


Select a Layer Cake. Divide the Layer Cake into 21 pairs, making sure that the fabrics coordinate well and create a contrast with each other.

Place two contrasting layer cake pieces right sides together and stitch 1/4″ seam along the two parallel sides. Then, also stitch a seam at 1 1/2″ (from the edge of the fabric) on these same sides.

Now we are going to cut two strips off of each side. First, cut 1 1/4″ from the edge, then move your ruler to cut a second 1 1/4″ strip. It helps to place the stitch line directly on the 1″ mark of your ruler. Do this to both sides, and you will end up with 4 strips.

Using the remaining center piece 5″x10″, stitch again at 1/4″ and 1 1/2″ on the short (5″) sides of the fabric. Trim them the same way as above. You will end up with 4 pieces.

To reassemble the blocks, first sew the short sides onto the center 5″ square, then press.

Next, trim the long strips to 8″ and sew onto the top/bottom of the blocks. Press your finished block.

The finished block size will be 8″ square. You will then begin laying the blocks out with 6 blocks across and 7 rows down. Every other block is rotated 90 degrees. Arrange the blocks to your liking and sew the rows together.

45″ x 52″ Quilt 

We hope you all have a great time making this quilt! For information on kits, please visit our website at www.quiltedworks.com
Barb Johnson with Julie Macfarlane for Quilted Works

Lattice Bones Quilt


Hi!  I’m Julie from 627handworks and I’m really excited to be sharing this quilt pattern with you.  The design was kind of an accident.  Originally I was playing with some ‘bone blocks’ I made out of strips and dreaming up a dog quilt for my spoiled pups. When I started twisting the blocks around I realized they made a lattice pattern.

This pattern is perfect for chain piecing and comes along pretty quickly if you make an assembly line of sorts.


1 Jelly Roll – Potluck by American Jane
1 Jelly Roll – Moda Bella Solids in Snow
4 yards of Moda Bella Solids in Mustard (backing)


Use leftover strips as a scrappy binding for your quilt

We will be using 1/4″ seam for all piecing and remember to press after sewing each piece.


PRINTS:  
Pull 32 Strips.  Each print will yield 2 blocks for a total of 64.

From each of the 32 prints cut:

  • Four 6.5″ strips, then
  • Four 2.5″ strips

SOLIDS: 
Pull 37 Strips.

Take 29 solids and cut from each:

  • Nine 4.5″ strips

Take 8 solids and cut from each:

  • Sixteen 2.5″ strips

     

    • Four 4.5″ solid
    • Two 2.5″ solid
    • Two 2.5″ print
    • Two 6.5″ print

    Arrange your bone pattern.

    Sew the sides of the bones.
     

    Take your 6.5″ prints and lay a 4.5″ solid diagonally across the top.

    Mark it from corner to corner with a fabric pen, iron or finger press.

    Make sure your diagonal line is going the same way as pictured. If you want your diagonal to go the other way, you will need to place the excess of the solid fabric on the OPPOSITE side of print.  It doesn’t matter which way you choose, just be consistent so the seams on your blocks are all going the same way.

    Sew from corner to corner.  Open it up and make sure it creates one long piece. TRIM.

    Lay out your bone strips.

    Sew all the strips together.

    After you’ve created a few ‘bone blocks’ I recommend chain piecing.  

    You will have a total of 64 ‘bone’ blocks.  Take 4 blocks to sew into a ‘lattice bone’.

    Sew the top and bottom blocks together.

    Sew the sides together. Now you have a larger block. 

    Create 16 larger blocks.

    Sew into rows.

    Sew the rows together. 

    Use leftover prints to create a scrappy binding.

    If you make a Lattice Bones quilt please share it with me, I’d love to see it!


    64″ x 64″ Quilt

    Julie Hirt
    {www.627handworks.com}

    Sunday Potluck Quilt


    I’m very excited to be back at the Moda Bake Shop. This is a combination of a basic nine-patch and strip-piecing. I’ve created an over-sized 18″ block so it goes together quickly with strip piecing. The pattern is written for layer cakes, but you could also incorporate jelly rolls, as there are many 2.5″ strips. Potluck has an old-fashioned country charm and I can see this quilt being brought to Friday night football games or on a fall camping trip. Enjoy, and visit my blog for more tutorials.


    2 Layer Cakes: Potluck by American Jane
    2 1/4 yards of Bella Snow or light Bella solid
    4 1/2 yards backing fabric
    300 inches of binding using your preferred method
    Batting: 80″ x 80″


    Step 1: Block Centers
    Choose 16 squares from the Layer Cake for block centers. Cut into 6.5” squares.

    Step 2: Corner Nine Patches
    Cut 16 Layer Cake squares into 4 strips 2.5” x 10”
    Cut 20 solid strips 2.5” x width of fabric. Subcut into 80 strips 2.5” x 10”. 
    You’ll make 32 of strip set A and 16 of strip set B.
    Subcut into 128 strips 2.5” x 6.5”. 
    You will cut 4 strips per set.

    Subcut into 64 strips 2.5” x 6.5”.
    You will cut 4 strips per set.

    Stitch strips into 64 nine patch units 6.5″ x 6.5″
    Step 3: Rail Fence Units
    Choose 32 layer cake squares and arrange them into pairs of contrasting colors. Cut a 6.5″ x 10″ rectangle and then cut into 4 strips 6.5” x 2.5”. 
    Cut 11 strips 2.5” x width from bella solid fabric. Subcut into 64 strips 2.5” x 6.5”. 
    Stitch strips together as shown. You will create 4 rail fence units 6.5” x 6.5” from each pair of layer cake squares. Stitch a total of 64 Rail Fence units.

    Step 4: Assemble Blocks
    Lay out units as shown. Stitch into 3 rows, then stitch rows together to form block. Trim to 18.5” square. Stitch blocks together in a 4 x 4 layout to form a top 72” x 72”.

    Make a quilt sandwich, baste, quilt, square up, and bind using your preferred method.


    One 72″ x 72″ quilt

    Sara Peterson
    {www.blog.knottygnome.com}

    Herringbone Haul-It-All Tote with Jelly Rolls


    Hi, y’all!  This is Marion from MyQuiltDiet.blogspot.com.  I am so excited to share this fun project with you here at the Moda Bakeshop!  I just started quilting a little bit ago, but I have been making bags for years.  They are one of my favorite projects to make 🙂 …especially ones with zippers some where in them ;D

    This tote is the perfect must-have bag for every need.  Haul around your hand sewing or maybe groceries.  Lug some books home from the library or clothes for an overnight.  This is particular bag is the first of two that I will share with you here at the Moda Bake Shop.  This one is more medium sized and made from jelly roll strips.  Watch for the second tutorial in a few weeks.  The Honeycomb Haul-It-All is larger and made with a honeycomb pre-cut.

    One of the beauties of this project is that one jelly roll will make several bag exteriors 😉  PARTY!  Break out a new jelly roll and create a few scrappy delights or use up left over jelly roll scraps you’ve got laying around in your stash.  So much fun to be had!


    1 jelly roll for the tote exterior & straps
    18″ x 28″ coordinating fabric for tote interior
    11.5″ x 18″ coordinating fabric for interior zipper pocket
    12″ x 20″ coordinating fabric for large interior pocket
    10″ zipper
    3/4 yard heavy weigh fusible interfacing 45″ wide ( I use Pellon 809)
    22″ x 32″ piece of batting

    Start out with your favorite jelly roll 🙂  This sweet pile of GORGEOUS is American Jane’s Potluck.
    I prefer to start by sorting my colors into piles 🙂

    To begin the chop chop, line up one edge of a jelly roll strip with a grid line on your cutting mat.

    Using Jaybird’s Hexy ‘n More ruler, line up the 4-1/2″ Triangle line on the ruler with the bottom edge of the jelly roll strip.  (You will note that the 1-1/2″ triangle line on the ruler will match up with a mat line to help you know you are doing it right 😉
    ***You may use any 60 degree triangle ruler or line on your ruler.  The wide bottom base is 5.5″ and the narrow top of the half hexy is 2.5″***

    Cut a total of 84 “half hexy” pieces. Two from each strip. 
    [Four of your remaining strips will be used for the straps]
    ***OCD Side Note- After all of  my pieces are cut, I prefer to separate my like prints into two piles of 42 each.  I work from one pile first and then the second to ensure better distribution of the prints in my project. …I then sort my two piles by color for more OCD fun 😉  Someday I will get brave and toss them all into a bag and go for true randomness.  If you try the random bag method, leave me a comment and let me know how it went 🙂 ***
    Now it’s time to line up your first few pieces as seen below.

    Are you ready to sew yet?  We are going to start with this first seam… the one I am pointing too 🙂

    Lay the small red flower print over the top of the green check, like so.  Make sure there is a 1/4″ over lap as seen below…see how the red floral print corner is hanging over the green check on the top-left of center edge?

    Then sew it up 🙂

    You will just need to sew to the edge of the green check.

    Press, and put back into your layout. 

    Take the next half hexy (the blue daisy here) and lay over the previously sewn piece.  

    Center it.  The bottom corner/points will poke over by about a 1/4 inch.  You want the new piece to poke over evenly on each side.

    Sew & press 🙂  Isn’t it looking fun?

    Repeat!

    Oh NO!!! I hate it when my thread does that! :/

    Just keep sewing….

    …and sewing…

    Pretty soon, you will have them ALL sewn together into a beautiful long herringbone 🙂

    Now for those pesky ends…

    Line them up and chop them off! ….”OFF WITH THEIR HEADS”….or tails as it may be ;D

    Ta- Da!

    Now for the sort of tricky, but not too bad part 🙂  Take your LONG herringbone and fold it into even thirds, like below, except that you kinda cant tell that it is folded in thirds 🙂

    …but it is, see?

    …and from the other side.

    Get the thirds as equal as possible and bravely cut 🙂
    Lay them side by side to see how they look next to each other.  You may need to rearrange them a bit to get it right 🙂  Don’t worry too much about it, it will be GREAT!

    Ready to sew your rows?  (I recommend pinning for this process.  The edges of the rows are a bit biased and will stretch a titch.)
    Sew the rows, then press.

    Now, you have a choice to make, do you want your bag quilted or not?  If you want it quilted, here is your chance.  I decided to quilt mine.  I spray basted my pieced panel to some batting and straight line quilted it.

    I quilted it only with the top panel and batting, no backing, using a walking foot for the “straight” lines.  (I am a very “organic” straight line quilter… that means my lines are NOT very straight and even 🙂

    ….but I like them 🙂

    ****If you would prefer not to quilt it, you will need to use a heavy fusible interfacing on the back of your panel.  When I use fusible interfacing on pieced fabric, I cut my interfacing larger than the panel, fuse it to the panel and then square the panel.  (You will need a 1/2 yard more pellon)
    Are you ready for the interior?
    Fuse the interfacing to the back of the interior lining fabric.
    At this point you need to make sure that your interior lining fabric and your exterior quilted piece are the same size.  Trim as needed to make sure they are the same size.
    Lay your interior lining piece, right side up on your work surface. 

    Take your fabric for the zippered pocket and lay it right sides together on your interior lining fabric as shown.  Place the pocket fabric about 2″ below the top edge.

    Next you will need to draw a 1/2″ wide rectangle on the pocket fabric.

    It should be about an inch to an inch and a half away from the top and sides of the pocket fabric edge as shown below.  

    Pin and sew on the drawn skinny rectangle.

    Now for a bit of snip snip.

    Please cut carefully, with sharp scissor,s down the center of the long rectangle, through both layers of fabric, stopping a 1/2″ before the end.

    At the end, you will want to cut a “v” shaped cut up to, but not through, the corner stitching of the rectangle.

    Now, shove your pocket fabric through the new cut opening to the back side of the interior lining fabric.

    Get it all though 🙂

    …and press 🙂

    At this point, you may have to “make” the pocket lining behave.  
    Tug and press and don’t burn your fingers! 🙂

    Take your zipper and lay it behind your interior lining so you can see it.

    Carefully pin the zipper into place.  This can take a bit of patience, as the zipper sometimes likes to wiggle ;D 

    Carefully top stitch around the edge of the opening to attach the zipper.

    Yippee!  It’s in!

    A view from the back side.

    Now to sew up the zipper pocket.  Fold up the zippered pocket fabric so the bottom meets up with the top.

    Another shot.

    Pin only the pocket fabric together.  Do not pin the pocket fabric to the bag’s interior lining fabric.

    Fold back the interior lining fabric to expose the zippered pocket fabric.

    Sew shut using a 1/4″ seam allowance.

    Repeat for the other two sides of the zippered pocket.  (The bottom of the zippered pocket is a fold, so it won’t need to be sewn 🙂  BONUS!!!)

    Once your zippered pocket is all sewn shut, sew right along the top, top stitch seam above the zipper.

    This keeps the pocket from sagging inside the bag lining.

    Can I get a WHOOP WHOOP???  You just made a zippered pocket!!!

    Now for the long, interior pocket.  Fuse the fusible interfacing to the backside of the long interior pocket.

    Fold in half and press well.
    Put right sides together and sew the bottom seam.

    Flip right side out and press well, especially that thick bottom seam 🙂

    Take your interior lining fabric (yellow daisy’s) fold in half and press a crease in the bottom fold (you can see it in the picture below on the left).  
    ***for some reason I don’t have a picture of this next step, so I drew a diagram 🙂 …sorry, I’m not an artist :/ ***
    Take your interior pocket fabric (blue multi pezzy) and top stitch right along the top edge of the fold (opposite to the thick bottom seam you just pressed).  
    Now, lay you interior lining fabric (yellow daisy) on your work surface.  Place the long pocket (blue multi pezzy) across it with the thick seam at the bottom and the thin, folded, top stitched seam at the top.  The bottom [thick seam] should be about 2.5″ up from the fold you pressed into the center of the yellow daisy fabric.
    Pin in place.  Now, top stitch the pocket into place along the bottom, on the thick bottom seam.  Then top stitch on either edge, right along the edge (this will help when you are putting the bag together).  Next, top stitch two lines to form 3 pockets.  See diagram & picture below.

    Top stitching the bottom of the pocket onto the interior lining fabric.

    See the pressed fold on the left?
    If you look closely, you can see the top stitching that forms the pockets.
    See?  A pocket 🙂

    …and another 🙂

    Now to form the bag.  Ready?
    Fold your interior lining, right sides together, like so.  Stitch up one of the sides (using a half inch seam allowance).

    Stitch up the other side (also using a 1/2″ seam allowance), but leave a 4″ opening.  This opening needs to be at least 3-4″ from the top edge, and about 5″ from the bottom fold.

    Trim off your long pocket overages.

    For the exterior of the bag, place right sides together and sew up the sides as well using a 1/2″ seam allowance, but do not leave an opening in either of the sides 🙂
    At this point, I like to hold up my interior and exterior right next to each other to see if the side seams line up at the top with each other.  If they are within a scant 1/8″ inch of each other, no worries.  If the difference is bigger, hold tight, there is an easy fix on the way… just take in one of the side seams in the larger of the two 🙂 ….so lets say the interior lining is a 1/4″ bigger than the exterior, just take the side that doesn’t have the opening in it, and stitch a seam a 1/4″ in from the original seam.  Don’t worry about unstitching the first seam, it will be hidden inside the bag 🙂
    Now to set the corners.  Do this for the interior and the exterior of the bag.  With the wrong side out, put your hand inside the bag and form this triangle in the bottom of the bag on one side.  Be sure the side seam is straight up and down as shown below.  Using a ruler, put the 2.5″ line at the point of the triangle.
    Draw a line.  Stitch along that line.

    Do this for both corners, in both the lining and the exterior.

    ***Some people prefer to cut off the little triangles after making the corners, I prefer to leave them for extra stability.***

    Say, “Aaaahhh!”

    Strap Construction
    Select four jelly roll strips to form the straps. [After cutting off two half hexies from a jelly roll strip in the beginning, the left over strip is perfect for a strap.]  Each strap will have two sides, one that I will call the outside (blue) and the other, the inside (red and green chick fabric).
    Fuse interfacing to each of the outside/blue strap pieces.  Place one outside/blue and one inside/chick strip right sides together, stitch together using a 1/4″ seam.  Do this for both straps.

    Stitch a basting seam along one end for turning.

    Turn the strap right side out..  (I use a chop stick or a knitting needle for this fun business.)

    Press.

    Top stitch as desired.  I did three rows of stitching for mine.
    Trim straps to the same length. …about 33″ long each.
    Bag Assembly

    Turn interior lining right side out.

    Place the interior lining into the [inside out] exterior bag, like so.

    Snuggle it down in there good 🙂

    Pin straps in place.  For this bag, I center the straps on the herringbone seams.  Make sure the straps extend about a 1/2″ above the edge of the bag.  [The fabric that is touching the exterior bag fabric will be the strap fabric you see primarily.]
    Pin well.

    Make sure that your side seams match up.  Pin well. [I usually do not sew the side seams open, but when the exterior is quilted, it is sometimes easier to do it that way.]

    Stitch around the top using a generous 1/2″ seam allowance.

    After you have sewn the top seam, go back and do some wide zig-zag stitches on the straps for reinforcement.

    Carefully reach inside the side seam that you left open and turn the bag right side out.
    After tucking in the seam allowances and finger pressing, carefully pin and sew the side seam shut.  I use a narrow zig-zag, but you may straight stitch or hand sew it shut if you like.

    My narrow zig-zag.

    Once your bag is all turned, top stitch a 1/4″ around the top edge of the bag.

    Voila!!!  Pretty tote for all of your needs 🙂


    One SUPER cute medium-ish sized Haul-It-All Tote 🙂

    Tote size- 11″ tall by 17″ wide.  The bottom of the bag is 5.25″ wide.

    One large zippered pocket and a large triple side pocket.

    These chicks are TOO cute!!!

    Be sure to come by in a few weeks to see another way to make this bag using other Moda pre-cuts!  The second bag is even BIGGER and just as fabulous!!!!

    When you make yours, be sure to post it to Instagram be sure to tag me @myquiltdiet and hash tag it #haulitalltote 🙂  I can’t wait to see your bags!
    Marion McClellan

    Pezzy Lattice Quilt


    Hi Everyone!  I’m Amanda Castor from Material Girl Quilts and I am absolutely thrilled to share my first Moda Bake Shop project with you today.
    I made this Pezzy Lattice Quilt for a very special teenage boy and am pleased with the way it turned out.  I think the design works great with the Pezzy Prints, but can imagine it used with so many other Moda fabric lines. 
    1 – Layer cake (I used Pezzy Print by American Jane)
    *3 yds for background (if less than 42″ wide you will need 3.5 yds) – (I used Moda Bella Silver)
    *4 yds for backing – (I used Deck Chairs Stripe in Summer from the Salt Air line)
    *½ yd binding
    At least 66″ x 78″ batting
    6 ½” square grid ruler
    *For this quilt I chose to use only 30 of the layer cake squares (I knew he wouldn’t want pink in his quilt and I didn’t use brown by my choice).  If you would like to use more squares, you will need to adjust the amount of background, backing and binding fabric as necessary.  Using all 42 squares would give you a quilt with 12 blocks across and 14 rows total and the final size would be approx. 72″ x 84″. 
    All seams are ¼”
    1)   Select 30 layer cake squares and cut into four 2 ½” x 10″ strips each.  This will result in 120 strips.  I chose 3 squares of each color selected.

    2)  Cut 120 6″ squares from the background fabric.

    3)  Cut along one diagonal of each 6″ background square creating two backing triangles.

    4)  Each block will consist of one 2 ½” x 10″ strip and two background triangles.

    5)  Place one of the triangles RST (right-sides together) roughly centered onto the strip and stitch (to make this go quickly, I chain pieced the first triangle onto each strip before adding the second triangle)

    6)  Add the second triangle to the opposite side of the strip and chain piece as before.
    7)  Set your seams and press towards the backing fabric.
    8)  Place your 6 ½” square grid ruler on top of the blocks and square up, trimming away all excess fabric, leaving you with a 6 1/2″ block.  **You should take your time with this step, the squaring up is key to having matching points when you piece the blocks together!! 
    9)  Now lay out your blocks to determine your desired look.  You can choose to have the corners start in an X or diamonds like mine.  I chose to create “columns” of each color instead of a random pattern. 
    10)  Once you have chosen your final layout design, sew each of your blocks together row by row until it is done.  The key to achieving perfect points is also in the pinning.  Match each seam as shown below before sewing each block together.
    11)  Layer with backing and batting and quilt as desired.  I created a smaller “lattice” design on mine.

    One 60″ x 72″ Pezzy Lattice quilt perfect for snuggling under.


    Amanda Castor
    {Material Girl Quilts}