Jelly Roll Race Remix Quilt

Hello, Karin Vail from Cascade Quilts back again this month with yet another Christmas in July project!

2 Jelly Rolls (or 2 jelly roll race quilt tops – or a combo of the two!)  I used 24th and Pine by Basic Grey
2/3 yard for binding (or use leftovers for a scrappy binding)
1 yard inner border (cut into 8@ 4.5”WOF strips)
1 1/2  yards outer border (cut into 8@ 6.5”WOF strips)
5 yards backing

Probably most quilters have tried this at one point or another –  a ”Jelly Roll Race” (JRR) quilt top.  It works up fast for sure – but makes a rather ho-hum quilt.  I made one myself years ago, but it was not ever destined to be made into a quilt after I finished the top and didn’t love it.

So, WHAT do you do with a JRR quilt top that you love the fabric, but don’t love the design?  Rework it by adding yet another JRR top to the mix…..

Now, there are lots of JRR quilt tutorials out there, so I am not going to go into how to make those.  What I am going to explain is how I remade these two JRR tops into a beautiful quilt with MUCH more visual interest!  These JRR tops will each measure around 50”x64” to begin with.

Yes, I made TWO identical JRR tops, but you could certainly make two different tops and use this same technique.  It is similar to a ‘bargello’ technique.  If you did this, I would alternated between strips from the two JRR tops to get a uniform look throughout.

First, take one JRR top and fold it in half so that the top strip can be sewn to the bottom strip – so you make a JRR ‘tube’.  Think of it like a *giant* trip-around-the-world block setup.  From that tube, you will cut cross-section strips.   Here the seam has been sewn to make the tube and it’s again folded in half horizontally so I can do the subcutting.

In this quilt, I cut my strips 2.5” so that I have 2” squares in my final quilt, but you can certainly change it up and cut varying widths of strips!

For the first strip, take apart one seam between blocks.

The next strip, you will take apart the next seam up from the one you took apart on the first strip, and so on.

To make it easier to keep track and keep them in the right orientation (how they came off of the original JRR top), I cut only a few strip tubes at a time and sewed them a few at a time.

Match up your seams and sew the long verticle seams.

Where the fabrics change, you will get several almost-half square triangles.  Or, you might luck out and get a perfect HST in the mix too:

You should be able to get twenty 2.5” strips from each JRR ‘tube’, so with two ‘tubes’ you would be able to get a total width of 80” if you used it all.  But, since the length of the quilt is only 64” at this point, and I didn’t want an 80×64 quilt,  I decided to stop at 64” wide and add borders to enlarge it and have a balanced quilt.  I personally prefer a square quilt since you don’t have to worry which side is ‘up’ that way 🙂  If you are using 2 identical tops, cut 20 strips from one top, and 12 from the second.  If you are using 2 different JRR tops, then cut 16 strips from each JRR ‘tube’.

Now, take your 8@ 4.5”WOF strips and sew them into pairs to create 4 longer strips.  Measure your quilt top, cut border fabric to match, and sew the border on top and bottom.  Mine measured 64.5”.  Press, measure the length you will now need for the sides and cut your remaining border strips to length, and sew on left and right sides.  Mine measured 72.5”.

For your second border, take your 8@ 6.5” strips and sew them into pairs.  Again, measure your quilt top as per the first border.  My first measurement for the top/bottom was 72.5” and second for the sides was 84.5”.

A generous 84”x84” quilt!

Karin Vail
{Cascade Quilts}

Christmas Ribbons Quilt

Shops are filled with holiday fabrics and we have a series of fun and festive quilts to inspire you to get that Christmas sewing done early this year!

14 Fat Quarters (Be Jolly by Deb Strain)
3 yards light background (Bella solids in Bleached White)
3/4 yard binding
4 1/2 yards backing

Iron and starch your fat quarters.  Make sure you have at least 16”x21” of usable material in each piece.  Cut each fat quarter into eight 5” squares and four 5.5” squares according to diagram:

From your background (white) fabric, cut:
twelve 2.5”xWOF strips (sashing)
eight 4.5”xWOF strips (border)
eight 5.5”xWOF strips
Subcut your 5.5”xWOF strips into 56 @ 5.5” squares.    Draw a diagonal line on all of these background squares:

I found it easiest to work with one ‘row’ at a time, so you are working with the prints from 2 contrasting fat quarters at a time (so no fabric mix-ups within the row are possible).

Pair each background 5.5” square with one of the print 5.5” squares cut from your fat quarters:

Sew a scant 1/4” from each side of the marked line:

Cut along diagonal line:

Press seam open:

Trim each HST (half square triangle) to 5”:

On each of the 5” print squares cut from your fat quarters, draw a diagonal line:

Pair each of the 5” squares with a 5” contrasting HST:

Align them so that the drawn diagonal line goes in the opposite direction as the seam on the HST:

Sew a scant 1/4” seam from either side of the drawn line:

Cut on drawn line:

Press seams open:

Trim off dog ears if you prefer (optional).  This creates two 3-patch quarter square triangles that are the mirror image of each other:

When you get all the 3-patch quarter square triangles done for each pair of fat quarters, then you can arrange them into the blocks.  Sort your 3-patch blocks into piles (there will be 4 different configurations).  Lay them out so that all the white triangles face toward you and the small print triangles face each other.  I found this the easiest way to keep everything straight.

Half of them will be for the A block, and half for the B block (B block top 2, A block, bottom two):

So, start with the bottom two piles:

There are 8 of each of these 3-patch blocks.  Seperate 4 from each pile:

And rotate them 180 degrees so the white triangle face away from you:

Now you can sew these 4 sets of 4 3-patch blocks into your A blocks:

The B block is assembled the same way:

Only, when you sew the B block to the A block, you rotate is 180 degrees.

There will be 4 ‘A’ blocks and 4 ‘B’ blocks (don’t forget to rotate the B blocks!) per row.  Sew these 8 blocks (alternating A block and rotated B block) into one long row:

(sorry, my ironing board wasn’t quite long enough to show the entire row!)

Repeat with the other 6 pairs of fat quarters.  When you have your 7 rows sewn, you can start to assemble them into your quilt top.  Sew your twelve 2.5”xWOF strips into pairs to make 6 longer strips.  Measure your rows (mine measured just over 67” at this point), and cut your 2.5” strips to that measurement.  Sew the strips between the rows:

With your eight 4.5”xWOF strips, sew them into 4 pairs and attach your border.  You should now have a completed top!

Layer, baste, quilt as desired, and bind!

An approx. 76” x 79” quilt!

Karin Vail
{cascadequilts.com}

Wishes String Quilt

Hello again! This is Karin from Cascade Quilts, and I am happy to bring you another quick quilt project!  I have wanted to do a string quilt for years, but I just don’t care for foundation piecing – and all the tutorials I have seen to use strip quilting have not had the solid strip that goes down the *center* of the block.  They always seem to have a seam down the center instead, which gives an entirely different look to the overall quilt.  It came to me one night how to make the blocks with a strip pieced method with the solid down the center of the block (when trying to get to sleep, but can only think of current/future quilting projects!).  I am *thrilled* how this quilt top came together!  I have already started to make another one with this pattern I love it so much!   My mom even started one after she saw my completed top.  I hope you love this pattern as much as I do – and if you make a quilt from the pattern, I’d love for you to share it (or any of my other project patterns) on my flickr group 🙂

2 print jelly rolls (I used ‘Wishes’ by Sweetwater)
1 solid jelly roll (or 2 3/4 yards – I used Moda Bella ‘Porcelain’)
3/4 yard matching solid cut into 2.5” strips (‘Porcelain’- not shown)
3 yards wide backing (Bella solids in red)

All your seams will be 1/4” or scant 1/4”.  Whichever you use, just be as consistent as possible.

Unroll you jelly rolls and remove 1 strip from each of the print jelly rolls (you will use 39 strips from each roll for a total of 78 print strips).  Unroll your solid jelly roll – you will be using 26 strips at this point from the solid.  Pair up the 26 solid strips with 26 of your print strips.  Pair up the remaining 52 print strips into another 26 pairs.  Sew each pair together along one long side.  26 print/solid pairs and 26 print/print pairs.

Now, pair up each print/solid pair with a print/print pair keeping the prints together and the solid along the edge.  Press these groupings with the seams all going in the same direction (direction doesn’t matter, just as long as it’s consistent through all of them).  You will have 26 strip sets now, with a solid on the outside and 3 prints.

At this point, I suggest squaring up one end of each strip set.  Again, doesn’t matter which end, just be consistent for all of them.  *I hope I don’t confuse everyone too much with pics of different print strip sets – I seem to have missed/misplaced pics of some steps the first time around, so I started with a second quilt to capture those missed steps.  The fabrics in this second quilt is a collection from about a year ago called ”Seascapes” by Deb Strain*

Then pair each 4-strip-set with another strip set – making sure that you don’t sew the two solid strips together.  Since the seams are all pressed in the same direction, your seams will ‘nest’ and help you align the strip sets.  Sew along one long edge and press that seam in the same direction as the others.

You will now have 13 strip sets that are 8 strips wide.  All seams should be going in the *same* direction.  Solid, 3 prints, solid, 3 prints.

You are going to sew these into a tube.   Sew the final seam to form the tube, then carefully press the final seam in the same direction as the other seams.

Once you have the 8-strip tube made, you will be pressing the tube so you are pressing the solids in half.  Hopefully this picture explains what I mean.  You will be able to ‘nest’ the seams of the prints as you press so that you can be sure that you are pressing the solids directly in half.

I’m guessing you just had an A-HA moment like I did?! 🙂

Now, you will begin cutting your blocks!  You will get 5 blocks from each strip set ‘tube’, with a bit of leftovers.

Starting at the left side of the strip set with a 9.5” square-up ruler align the diagonal center of the ruler along one edge (the solid that is folded in half).  Don’t do like I did in this pic – use the diagonal line on the ruler to your advantage (I did use the diagonal line in the next 12 sets, LOL).

Cut the side on the RIGHT side of the ruler *first*.  Go ahead and cut all the way across the strip set.  Move the rest of the strip set aside far enough so you can cut the second side of the triangle without cutting the remaining strip set.

Make the second cut along the left side of the triangle.

Open up that triangle, and you have your first block with the solid going down the center of the block!  Yay!

Align the ruler along the edge that faces away from you, and cut your second block.  It will only take a cut along one side for the second block.

Now, for the third block, you will have to move again to the folded edge closest to you – but you will need to move it to the right a little, so you get the full triangle.  Again, cut as you did with the first block.

This will give you approx 1 3/4”-2” x 9 1/2” strip ”scraps”.  But, don’t throw away those scraps, those will be used in our pieced border!

Keep cutting all of your 13 strip set tubes until you have a total of 64 blocks (you can get 65 blocks, but you will only need 64 for this pattern).

At this point, I highly recommend starching and re-checking square of each of your blocks.  These are all on-bias, so will have quite a bit of ‘give’ to them.

Arrange your 64 blocks into an 8 x 8 arrangement and sew them together for the center of the quilt.  If you arrange them right, you will be able to ‘nest’ all the seams so the seams line up easily!

Now, for the first row of the border, take 7 of your solid strips and sew them together into one long strip.  Cut this strip into two pieces 72.5” long and two pieces 77” long (recheck the measurements of YOUR quilt center to make sure these are correct for yours).  Sew the 72.5” pieces along the left and right sides, then the 77” pieces along the top and bottom sides.  Press.

Now for the scrap pieced border!  (again, had to use pics from the second set of blocks for the second quilt I’m making for this one)
You will need 36 pairs of these tiny blocks to make 36 ‘chevron’ blocks (9 for each side of the quilt).
You can keep them as they are already paired up, or mix/match them as you please.  From the cut-offs that you already have, there will be 26 pairs (2 pairs from each strip set).  So, from the tail end of each strip set, you will need to cut one more pair.
So, first measure your little ‘scrap’ pieces.  Mine were 2”x9.5”

You will be cutting one more set from each end of the strip set tube.  Go ahead and cut it as wide as your scrap pieces are.  I cut mine 2” wide.

These ones will have to be opened up to cut them to length, so go ahead and cut them along the fold line.

Then, center the 9.5” ruler and cut off the ends – you are trying to make these the same as the first scraps, so make sure you center these so that the seams will line up when you pair them up with the other scrap strips.

I recommend starching these little cuties now too.  Pair these up and sew them together into 36 cute little chevron blocks!

If you pair them up properly, the seams will again ‘nest’ and you will be able to match up the seams easily!
When you press these blocks, press half in one direction and half in the other direction so that when you sew them into a long strip, those middle seams will also nest.

Sew your 36 little chevron blocks into 4 long strips with 9 blocks in each strip.  These will measure approx. 3.5”x81.5”.  Depending on your final measurements, you might need to add one more partial chevron block to all 4 strips if you intend to do a miter corner like I did, or just to two of the strips if you don’t do a mitered corner.  You should have plenty of scraps left to cut more if necessary.

This is what the seam will look like between the blocks:

Sew these long strips along the first solid border.  I chose to miter my corners, but you could chose the easier route and sew left and right, trimming them to fit the length, then sew top and bottom, trimming them to fit.

Finally, sew 8 of your solid strips into pairs of 2 – and sew on for your final border.

You have completed your beautiful approx 85” square quilt top!

Now, baste, quilt as desired, and add binding (from your remaining 9 solid strips).

A beautiful 85”x85” quilt!

Ooooh, and how cool does it look with the sun shining through it from the back?!!!

 Like stained glass! 🙂

Karin Vail
Cascade Quilts

Scrappy Scrunchies

Hello again! This is Karin from Cascade Quilts with a cute quick project for the girls on your Christmas list! These would make great stocking stuffers! I have to admit, I have a lot of hair scrunchies and I wear them often! They are easy and fun to make to coordinate with different outfits/holidays 🙂 Stop by my website where I will be having a giveaway for some of these adorable scrunchies AND a mini charm pack so someone can make a couple of their own!

For EACH scrunchie, you will need: 

• 20 Moda Candy pieces (2½” squares) – I used ‘Wishes’ by Sweetwater, ‘From Outside In’ by Malka Dubrawski, and ‘Grant Park’ by Minick and Simpson
• 7″ to 8” of ⅜” wide elastic 

This project works with other precuts, as well. Substitute the 20 Moda Candy pieces with:

• 5 charm squares 
• 1 jelly roll strip
• Half of a dessert roll strip 

• 2/3 yard lace or ric-rac for each scrunchie

 If you are using mini charms, sew your 20 mini charms into two rows of 10 mini charms and press.

If you are going to use lace or ric-rack, cut to length of your pieced strips and lay on one edge of the pieced strip with the edge you want showing facing IN and far enough from the edge that your 1/4” seam will not hide it all in the seam.

The large ric-rac works well as you can line it up JUST inside of the edge and 1/4” seam is pretty much right down the center of the ric-rac then.

Sew your 1/4” seam to encase the lace or ric-rac.  Press with right sides out.

 Optional: top stitch with a scant 1/8” seam

Now, you are going to make a tube with your strips.

Using a 1/4” seam, stitch your strips to form a tube.

Here is where it might get a little confusing.  Trust me, this works if you follow closely.  with the tube laying flat, take the center of the top of the tube and fold it in thirds.  You are just folding this to get it out of the way to stitch the bottom portion together without getting the top portion in the seam.

Now take the bottom section and fold it right sides together (you will be encasing the part you folded in thirds)

Now, start stitching your 1/4” seam, making SURE not to catch the inside material, you are only stitching the outside 2 edges together.

Once you get a few inches, you will need to start pulling the center out from the tube.

Keeping your needle down, just start pulling the center out and forward.  You might have to help it along near the rear of the needle too.  Line up the new edges you pulled through and continue sewing.

Sew a few inches, pull out a few inches…..

Continue sewing until you have a small opening 2-3” left.  Backstitch.  I know this seems confusing…. I, too, was unsure this was going to work when I sewed my first one.  But, believe me, it works!  And, the next one will be much easier after you ‘get’ it 🙂

Pull the whole fabric tube right side out.  The opening will be to feed the elastic through.

Totally optional – press your fabric tube.

Feed your elastic through the tube and tie the ends, then stitch the opening closed with as narrow seam as you can.

Viola!  One super cute scrappy scrunchie!  I have tried several different ways to sew scrunchies over the years, but this is by far my favorite way.

Or maybe two?

Or threeeeee????  I can’t stop!  This one was made with a jelly roll strip (cut in half at the fold, selvedges removed, then sewn in the same manner as the scrappy one).

One (or fifteen!) super cute hair scrunchie!

Head over to my website at Cascade Quilts to enter my giveaway for some of these scrunchies and a mini charm pack so you can make your own.

cascadequilts.com

Sunnyside Stars Quilt

Hello again!  This is Karin Vail from Cascade Quilts with yet another Moda Bake Shop project for you!  This one is super quick and EASY, I promise!  If you have a layer cake that has larger prints that you just hate to cut down into small pieces, this is a perfect pattern for that!  It has nice large blocks that will show off those wonderful prints!  Let’s get started!

1 layer cake (Sunnyside by Kate Spain)
1 jelly roll (Sunnyside by Kate Spain)
1/3 yard of 2 different prints (each cut into four 10” squares)
3 2/3 yard Moda Bella Solid (Snow) cut into fifty 10” squares)
3/4 yard print for binding (or you can use 10 strips left from your jelly roll for a scrappy binding)
6 2/3 yards print for backing

Your layer cake will contain 42 squares.  Since the base of this pattern is made from 100 HST’s, you will need 50 print squares and 50 solid squares.  So, from your 1/3 yard cuts of 2 different fabrics, cut four 10” squares from each, so you will now have 50 print squares.
Cut fifty 10” squares from your Bella solid yardage.

On the wrong side of your solids, draw one diagonal line from corner to corner.  Pair the solids with the prints (right sides together) and stitch a scant 1/4” from the each side of the line.  Continue with all 50 pairs.

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Cut each of the 50 pairs on the line drawn.

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Press each section open to reveal 100 large HST’s.  Do not square them up yet. Set aside 36 of your HST’s.  Lay one at a time of the remaining 64 HST’s on your cutting mat with the lower left corner matching up with lines on your cutting mat.  You will be cutting a wedge off the solid portion 2” down from the top/left corner and 2” over from the bottom/left corner.

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You will now have 64 pieces that look like this.  The scrap to the left is waste.

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Now, take 16 strips from your jelly roll and cut the selvages off and cut them into quarters.  This will yield approximately 11” long strips (64 total).

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Take a strip and line it up (right sides together) with the cut edge of one of your HST’s.  Make sure it hangs over the top edge by at least 1/4”.

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Stitch 1/4” along  the edge of the strip.

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Press open.

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Now, you can square up your blocks to a perfect 9.5” square.  If you didn’t do a *scant* 1/4” when you stitched on either side of the line, you might find it difficult to get the full 9.5” square.  You can trim them to 9.25” if you like, just as long as they are all the same. You can also square up your 36 HST’s that you set aside that didn’t get the wedge shape (the same size as the ones with the wedge).

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Now that you have your 100 sub-blocks ready, I suggest matching them up into 25 sets of 4.

There will be 9 sets with all four sections with wedges.

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There will be 16 block sets with 2 wedge sections and 2 plain HST sections.

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And there will be 4 sets with only one wedge section and 3 plain HST sections.

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Now, arrange your blocks so that the plain HST sections are on the border and sew together.  You now have a finished quilt top that should measure 90.5”x90.5”.

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Since this is such a large quilt top, you will need to piece your backing in several pieces (unless you use a wide backing material).  This is one option for piecing your backing.

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This is the backing on this finished quilt – I decided to piece it using 2 different prints – the yellow from Sunnyside and the blue from a print from Cuzco (a previous collection print also by Kate Spain for Moda)

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I was playing with options for this quilt, and I think it would look wonderful if you used all the same print for the stars as well:

If you wanted to go this route, you could use 1 1/8 yards of a print for your stars in place of the partial jelly roll.   OR, if you wanted to use a Bella solid, you would only need 5/8 of a yard because you can use the cut-off pieces from your wedges when you square up the blocks to use on another block since Bella solids are reversible!  I like this idea since I hate to see any waste 🙂

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Here is a mock-up of what it would look like using S’more Love (making it smaller).  I love the contrast with this fabric line.

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After you have finished piecing the top, layer your quilt top/batting/backing and quilt as desired!  This was my first experience with longarm quilting a quilt, and I can’t wait to try the next!  I’m hoping to do FMQ next time!  This was a pre-programmed pattern on a computerized longarm that I ‘rented’ time on.

I love the texture of a freshly washed quilt!

approx 90”x90” quilt

Karin Vail
{www.cascadequilts.com}

Noteworthy Labyrinth Quilt

Hello again!  This is Karin Vail from Cascade Quilts and I am happy to bring you my third Moda Bake Shop project!  This would look wonderul in just about any Moda collection!
I showed a preview picture of the pattern to a quilter friend of mine, and she said it looked like a labyrinth or maze, so the name was born.  This quilt came together pretty quickly – it looks complicated, but if you keep your consistent 1/4” seam, you should have no problems 🙂  This quilt top finishes at approx. 87”x87”.

2 jelly rolls (Noteworthy by Sweetwater)
3 1/2 yards Bella solids (Snow)
5 yards backing (#5500 15  ”Daisy” from Noteworthy collection)

We will be using 1/4” seam allowance throughout.

First, we’ll be cutting loads and loads of narrow strips from your Bella solid.

CUT:
8 WOF strips @ 1.75” for the border
66 WOF strips @ 1.5” wide for the sashing (30 are for your strip sets)
     Subcut 28 of the 1.5” strips into:
          45 pieces @ 16.5”
          50 @ 8”

Set aside 30 WOF @ 1.5” for your strip sets, and 8 WOF @ 1.5” for your sashing.

To get the most out of your solids, you can get two 16.5” pieces and one 8” piece from each WOF – so, from 22 strips, cut 44 pieces @ 16.5” and 22 pieces @ 8” – then from one strip, cut 1 piece @ 16.5” and 3 pieces @ 8” – then from 5 strips, cut 25 more pieces @ 8”.   This should give you the least amount of waste.

Take the remaining eight 1.5” strips and join into 4 longer strips @ 88” (sashing strip to join the rows together.)

Join the eight WOF 1.75” strips into 4 @ 88” for your border.

Open your two jelly rolls and choose 30 strips from each jelly roll for a total of 60 strips.  Some of the remaining jelly roll strips will be used for scrappy binding, so keep that in mind when choosing strips.  Also keep in mind what you choose if you might want to make matching pillows. Unfortunately, I left out the white/white prints and lower value prints and didn’t think about using the remaining for pillows until the top was already all assembled.  I wish I would have thought ahead further so I could have a matching pillow or two.

Anyhow, for each of the strip sets, you will choose 3 jelly roll strips and join together alternating with 2 of the 1.5” solid strips.  Press all seams to one side.

You will sew together 20 of these strips sets.  Each strip set should measure 8.5” wide.

Cut each strip set into five 8.5” squares.  There will be VERY LITTLE waste here, so cut cautiously.  After you have cut all your strip sets into 8.5” squares, you will take pairs keeping the seams orientated in the same direction, and cut them diagonally in opposing directions.

It is imperitive that you cut the angles in opposing directions for this to work.

Now, swap the upper pieces from each block and align and you will start to see the sub-block emerging!

If you pressed the seams to one side, and kept them in the same direction when you cut the blocks, your seams will all nest pefectly when you go to join the triangles back into a square!  The bias edge helps a LOT to make sure your seams line up.

Sew the blocks together and press.  You can press open or to one side here, your choice.  I chose to press to the side because it’s faster 🙂

At this point, carefully trim your blocks so they are 8” square.  You should have VERY little to trim, if anything at all.  The blocks will go together much nicer if these are all nice and square though 🙂
Continue cutting/sewing your sub-blocks – you should have a total of 100 for this quilt.

To assemble the 25 blocks, you will stitch an 8” x 1.5” solid between pairs of sub-blocks, press toward the solid.  Then, assemble pairs of those with the 16.5” x 1.5” strip for your finished blocks.  There will be 25 total.  Using your final twenty 16.5” x 1.5” strips, sew the blocks into rows of 5 – then use your 1.5” x 88” strips to join your rows.  Finally, use your final four 1.75”x 88” strips to add a border for a final quilt top finish of 87”x87”.

Now you can layer, baste, quilt, and bind using 9 of your remaining jelly roll strips!  (You will have 11 leftover jelly roll strips from the 2 jelly rolls and a small amount of the solid – maybe make some pillows to match?!)

One beautiful 87”x87” quilt!

Hop on over to my website to see the quilt in it’s post-washed crinkly goodness!

{cascadequilts.com}