Scattered Squares Pillow

Hello All!–Corey Yoder of Little Miss Shabby here! I always love hanging out over here on MBS and sharing a new project with you. =) This is a quick, beginner friendly design that will add a dash of panache to your living space. It uses just one mini charm pack and a bit of yardage–you might even already have all the supplies you will need to complete this project. I love adding hand quilting to my projects but you could easily swap out the hand quilting for machine quilting and have this pillow on your couch in a jiffy.

(The fabrics I used are in parentheses)

-1 Mini Charm Pack (Miss Kate)
-1/4 yard background fabric (9900-98)
-1/8 yard border fabric (55091-12)
-1/2 yard pillow backing fabric (55090-17)
-1/8 yard binding fabric (55092-17)
-20″ square piece of pillow backing fabric (this will be used for the pillow top sandwich)
-20″ square piece of quilt batting

-18″ pillow form

Thread for hand quilting, if desired. I prefer to use an 8 wt. Perle Cotton.

Cutting Instructions

From the background fabric cut:

(3) 1″ x width of fabric strips, subcut into (36) 1″ x 2 1/2″ rectangles

(3) 1″ x width of fabric strips, subcut into (36) 1″ x 3″ rectangles

(2) 1″ x width of fabric strips, subcut into (2) 1″ x 15 1/2″ strips & (2) 1″ x 16 1/2″ strips

From the border fabric cut:

(2) 1 1/2″ x wof strips, subcut into (2) 1 1/2″ x 16 1/2″ strips & (2) 1 1/2″ x 18 1/2″ strips

From the pillow backing fabric cut:

(2) 12 1/2″ x 18 1/2″ rectangles

From the binding fabric cut:

(2) 2 1/8″ x wof strips, trim selvages and sew together to create continuous binding

Piecing Instructions

Notes:
-Use a scant 1/4″ seam allowance

-You will need (36) mini charms from the charm pack. I opted to remove several of the solid colors.

1. Sew a 1″ x 2 1/2″ background rectangle to the side of each of the 36 mini charm squares. Press toward the rectangle.

2. Sew a 1″ x 3″ background rectangle to the side of the units made in Step 1. Press toward the rectangle.

3. Layout the squares as pictured. Sew the squares together in horizontal rows. Press seams in adjoining rows in opposite directions. Sew together the rows. Press seams in one direction.

Adding the Borders:

(Press all seams away from the center)

-Sew the 1″ x 15 1/2″ background strips to the sides of the pillow top.

-Sew the 1″ x 16 1/2″ background strips to the top and bottom of the pillow top.

-Sew the 1 1/2″ x 16 1/2″ border strips to the sides of the pillow top.

-Sew the 1 1/2″ x 18 1/2″ border strips to the top and bottom of the pillow top.

This completes your pillow top!

Layer the pillow top, 20″ batting square, and 20″ pillow backing square to create a pillow sandwich. Quilt as desired.

Finishing the Pillow

1. Hem (1) 18 1/2″ side of each of the 12 1/2″ x 18 1/2″ pillow backing rectangles. To do so, fold the edge in(wrong sides together) approx. 1/4″ and press into place. Fold in an additional 1/4″ and press. Top stitch into place.

2. With the pillow top facing down, place the hemmed rectangles as shown. The finished pillow backing edges will overlap in the center of the pillow and all raw edges will be aligned.

3. Pin the backing pieces into place. Use a long stitch and baste 1/8″ around the perimeter of the pillow top.

4. Sew the binding onto the pillow to complete your pillow. The scalloped fabrics in Bonnie & Camille’s fabric lines are perfect binding fabrics.

1 beautiful 18″ x 18″ Pillow which, incidentally, is the perfect companion to my Ruby, Pearl, & Opal quilt which I shared on MBS several years ago when Bonnie & Camille’s Ruby line of fabric was released.

You can find the tutorial for this quilt here.

I hope you have enjoyed this tutorial!–I hope you’ll stop by my blog, Little Miss Shabby, for a visit!

Corey Yoder
{Little Miss Shabby}

Avant Garden Turning Squares Quilt

May29

Hello! I am Erica from Kitchen Table Quilting and I am here today with a tutorial for a quilt using MoMo’s gorgeous new fabric line Avant Garden. I made this quilt nice and big with picnics in mind, but it is just as good for snuggling. However you use the quilt, this is a quick way to make a big quilt using jelly rolls.

2 Jelly Rolls Avant Garden
1 Yard Mochi Unbleached Linen
4 1/4 Yard Linen Mochi Dot Boysenberry
Batting at least 76″ x 76″

You will need 72 total jelly roll strips for this project. I chose to cut a few 2.5″ x Width of Fabric strips and mixed them in with my jelly roll strips, but the jelly rolls have more than enough strips. Set aside the extra strips for future projects or use them to make your binding.

Take 36 of the jelly roll strips and cut them down to 2.5″ x 12.5″. Cut the remaining 36 strips down to 2.5″ x 6.5″. You will need a total of (108) 12.5″ strips and (216) 6.5″ strips. It sounds like a lot but the precuts make it quick work!

For each block you will need (3) 2.5″ x 12.5″ strips and (6) 2.5″ x 6.5″

Place your strips into the following layout.

And start piecing the strips into pairs, pressing the seams open.

Add a third strip to each pair and press.

Then piece the 6.5″ squares together.

And then add the 12.5″ piece to create a 12.5″ square. If you are using a scant quarter inch, you might need to trim your block down a little to get make it 12.5″.

Make 35 more blocks.

Place your blocks into groups of 4, turning them so that the 4 small squares in the center line up. Piece them into pairs and press the seams open.

And then piece the pairs together.

Arrange the squares into 3 rows with 3 squares in each row. Piece the squares together into rows and then join the rows.

Baste, quilt, and bind as desired.

Finished size: 72″ x 72″

I used the linen dot for the back of the quilt and the solid linen for the binding. Not only does it have a wonderful texture, but it was wonderful to work with and gives the quilt a nice weight. If you decide to use linen for the binding I would suggest cutting it slightly wider than normal (I cut mine 2 5/8″ instead of 2 1/2″).

Erica Jackman
{www.kitchentablequilting.com}

Scissor Case

May19

2) contrasting 5″ charm squares
1) 5 1/2″ square of batting
1) 12″ length of skinny ribbon 1/4″ or smaller
1) Button
thread that matches
walking foot if you have one

Place the two charm squares right sides together on of the batting square. Centering so there is a little batting all the way around the charm squares.

Start sewing 1″ from the top right hand corner. Continue to sew all the way around to the top left hand corner. Sew in 1″. this will leave an opening at the top.

Remove as much batting as you can from the seam allowance all 4
sides, by carefully cutting it close to the stitch without cutting into it.

Clip all 4 corners to reduce bulk.

Turn inside out between the two charm squares.

Use a chop stick to make the corners nice and crisp.

Press the opening 1/4″ into the seam allowance.

On just 2 sides start quilting with a stitch 1/8″ from the edge and then move in 1/2″ at a time. Make 7 lines.

Fold the ribbon in half and place the fold 1/2″ from the top right hand side on what will be the body of your scissor case.

Fold in half with the body to the inside to form a triangle.

Sew 1/8″ seam down the edge with the ribbon.

at the end point sew back and forth 4 or 5 times about 1/2″ from the point.

cut off the tip 1/8″ away from the seam.

turn inside out and with your chop stick force the point in place.

Turn the top down and sew the button in the middle of the triangle area

Insert the embroidery scissors, bring the tails of the ribbon through the scissors and tie under the button to keep the scissors from falling out.

They go fast so make them in lots of color combos. Makes a great gift for your sewing friends.

Dawn Cornell
{modabakeshop/dawncornell}

Charm Party Baby Quilt + Bonus Pillow

Apr25

Hi! I’m Julie from 627handworks.com. Today I’m sharing a Charm Party baby quilt with matching bonus pillow. I’m someone who likes to get as much as I can out of my fabric. The half square triangles leftover from the quilt top are perfect for creating a bonus project like a pillow or even a doll quilt. I would love to see your version if you make one!

2 Charm Packs – Print (Chance of Flowers)
1 Charm Pack – Solid (Bella Solid Snow)
1 1/4 Yards for Backing (Chance of Flowers, Cloud Flower Garden)
1/2 Yard for Binding (Chance of Flowers, Cloud Flower Garden)

To make the 16″ Pillow Cover you’ll need:
2 Yards of Trim
1 Fat Quarter (Chance of Flowers, Rose Sandy’s Solids)
18″ Zipper
Pillow Form

Gather up your fabrics. How pretty are these?

Pull:

64 Prints for Quilt Blocks
17 Prints for Quilt Border
32 Solid Charms

Choose 4 different charms:

Take 2 of those charms and pair with a solid, right sides facing. Mark a diagonal line.

Stitch along your mark and sew another line 1/2″ over.

Cut between those lines. Set the smaller half aside.

Press open and arrange your HST (half square triangle) with the other 2 charms.

Stitch together.

Make 16 ‘mini-blocks’.

Take 4 mini blocks and form a large block.

Make 4 large blocks.

Sew the 4 large blocks together.

Take the 17 Charms we set aside earlier.

CUT:
1 Charm into quarters (4) 2.5″ squares
16 Charms in half (32) 2.5″ x 5″ rectangles

Take 8 rectangles and sew end to end creating a border. Make 4 borders.

Choose 2 of the borders and sew a square onto each end.

Attach the 2 border strips that do not have the square end charms.

Attach the two border strips that have the squares on each end.

You have completed the quilt top!

BONUS PILLOW

(OR you can also use the leftover HST’s to make a matching doll quilt)

Pull 25 HST’s leftover from making the quilt top.

We will be trimming these into 3.75″ squares.
If you don’t have a special HST ruler, you can use this method for trimming your squares.

Using Washi or masking tape, mark a line from corner to corner on the 3.75″ line.
(Make sure you are using the squared end of the ruler and one side isn’t an extra 1/2″ wide)

Lay your HST (still folded in half) with the seam line (NOT the raw edge) along the 3.75″ mark.

Trim

Press open creating a perfect 3.75″ square. Repeat for the rest of the HST’s.

Stitch together in 5 rows of 5 using any layout you like. Quilt if desired. Trim to 16.75″ square.

Sew decorative trim along the edge with the decorative part facing the center of the pillow.

Lay your zipper facing down, pillow front facing up, and stitch in place.

Cut your fat quarter into a 16.75″ square (or the exact size of your pillow front).

Lay your back piece facing up (edges aligned with the pillow front edges), zipper facing down, and stitch.

Open your zipper half way. Lay your pieces right sides facing. Pin all around the edges and and stitch, being careful not to catch your trim along the way. Zig-zag or overlock the raw edges to prevent fraying.

Pillow cover is done!

40″ Square Baby Quilt
16″ Pillow Cover

If you make a quilt I would love to see it!
Julie Hirt
627handworks.com

Sandbox Quilt

Apr20

Hi! I’m Krista of Four Robbins Designs and I blog over at Sew What’s Cooking? I’m so excited to be sharing my first Moda Bake Shop project with you.

This is a fun, quick quilt using the beautiful Weeds collection by Me & My Sister Designs. My first design used Mixed Bag and it looked so fun I named it Sandbox. So this one is titled “Flowers in Sandbox”. I hope you like it!

Fabric:
17 assorted fat quarters – red (medium dark)
6 assorted fat quarters – black (dark)
5 assorted fat quarters – dark grey (medium)
5 assorted fat quarters – light grey (light)
3/4 yards solid – white (very light)

Binding – 1/2 yard
Backing – 4-2/3 yards

Use 1/4 seams through out. Be sure to cut largest pieces first and smallest last to insure you get all the pieces you need from your fat quarters.

Cut pieces as shown below:

Following the placement below, you will need to make 10 blocks.

Step One: Assemble pieces.

Step Two: Assemble center piece.

Step Three: Assemble Blocks.

Step Four: Cut three of the blocks as shown below.

Step Five: Lay out blocks as shown below. Assemble by columns and then sew columns together to finish top. Please note: My finished quilt is shown upside down from this diagram with the smaller cut on top.

Step 6: Layer top with batting and backing. Baste and quilt as desired.

Step 7: Cut binding fabric into 2.25″ strips. Join on the diagonal to create double fold binding. Attach to top of quilt. Hand sew to the back of quilt.

Here’s the back of mine. I had a fat quarter stack and extra solid. I cut strips of various colors and in various widths. I started in the center and then started adding strips in a spiral and then finished off with some wide solid.

Here is Sandbox using Mixed Bag by Studio M. I really love this for a child. I think it is so cheerful and fun!

And how about the upcoming Social Club by Eric & Julie Comstock? Doesn’t this look great? I just might have to make it again!

One Sandbox Quilt 50″ x 80″ perfect for snuggling under.

Thanks for letting me share my quilt with you! I hope you like it!

Krista Robbins
Sew What’s Cooking?

Candy Flowers Pillow

Mar29

1 Mini Charm Pack – Print / Chance of Flowers
2 Mini Charm Packs – Solid / Bella Solid in Snow
3 Coordinating Fat Quarters
21″ Pillow Form

22″ Square of batting for quilting the pillow top
22″ Square of scrap fabric or muslin

Pull 40 printed charms and 64 solid charms.

Pair up 40 prints with 40 solids, right sides facing. Finger press a a diagonal crease on one side.

Chain stitch the 40 pairs of prints and solids on the diagonal crease.

Optional:
Without breaking the chain, run the the charms back through and stitch a 1/2″ over. Rather than throwing the trimmed fabric away, this quick step will create 40 little HST’s for future projects.

Cut. The pictures below show both options.

Open and press.

You should have a stack of 40 Half Square Triangles (HST) and 24 Solids.

Layout:
Using 12 HST’s and 4 solids, create a star.

Add the next row around – double check to make sure your HST’s are going in the right direction.

Add the points on the top and bottom.

Fill in with the remaining solid charms.

Piece:
Feel free to use your preferred method, I’ll show mine.

Some people like to stitch from the inside out, others in rows or even quadrants. This is how I piece several small squares that I want to keep in a certain layout and direction.

Going in vertical rows: Fold the squares on the right column onto the squares on the left.

Chain stitch – do not cut the thread between squares.

Feel free to press the seams, I don’t find it necessary and I will press later on.

Using the set of chained pairs, fold the first two pairs right sides together and stitch. Open. Fold the next pair up onto the previous pair and stitch. Repeat until all 8 pairs are pieced together.

Leaving them chained is nice because they stay in the right order and direction.

Open and press the seams all in one direction. When you complete the next row, press those seams in the opposite direction. This will make it easier to piece the rows together.

Stitch the two completed rows together.

Stitch the other two rows using the same method, and sew the halves together.

If your edges are raggedy, feel free to trim a little and straighten them out. Just be careful not to cut off the HST points along the edge and leave a seam allowance.

Take a Fat Quarter and cut four 2.5″ strips down the length of the fabric. You will have four strips approximately 21″ wide.

Attach one strip to the top and one to the bottom of your block.

Press open and trim.

Attach the other two strips to the sides.

Press open and trim.

Optional: Using the batting and scrap fabric, quilt as desired. Trim.

Double fold:
Take your remaining 2 Fat Quarters and along the 21″ side, fold over 1″ and press. Fold over another 1″ and press.

Top stitch along the top and bottom of the fold. Repeat with the other Fat Quarter.

The Math:

The two back pieces will create an envelope style enclosure and they need to overlap about 4″. Since everyone sews 1/4″ seams a bit different, we may have slightly different sized pillow tops.

Take the width of your pillow top and divide by 2.
Add 2″.
You should be somewhere near 12″.

Trim both Fat Quarters to that measurement. Trim the raw edge opposite your double edge fold, leaving the 21″ width intact.

Example: My pillow top is 20″. 20 divided by 2 = 10. Add 2 = 12″. I now have two fat quarters that measure 21″ x 12″ each. (21″ side has the double fold)

Part 2:

Trim both Fat Quarters so they don’t hang off pillow top. Instead of being 21″ they will probably around 20″.

Layer:
Pillow Top right side up
Fat Quarter #1 right side down – lining up raw edges along the side
Fat Quarter #2 right side down – lining up raw edges along the opposite side

Pin or clip edges in place. Stitch along the edge all the way around.

Zip Zag or Serge the seam you created. This will help prevent fraying in the future.

Turn right side out and you are done!

I’m using a 21″ pillow form.

One pillow cover. If you make a Candy Flowers pillow cover, I would love to see it.

Julie Hirt
{627handworks.com}

Bartholo-meow’s Reef Boxes Quilt

Mar23

Hi, my name is Trish and I blog over at notes of sincerity. Today I have a cute and simple quilt for you, made with Bartholo-meow’s Reef by Tim and Beck.

1 layer cake Bartholo-meow’s Reef (for blocks)
1/2 yard Bartholo-meow’s Reef Coral Glacie (for binding)
1.25 yards Bartholo-meow’s Reef Wave Water (for sashing and borders)
1/8 yard Bartholo-meow’s Reef Deep Water (for 30 corner stones)
4 yards Bartholo-meow’s Reef Deep Water (for backing)

cutting instructions
for corner stones :
cut two strips measuring 1.5″ x width of fabric
subcut into 30 – 1.5″ squares
for sashing :
cut 18 strips measuring 1.5″ x width of fabric
subcut each strip into 9″ strips you need 71
for borders :
cut 7 strips measuring 1.5″ x width of fabric

for binding :
cut 7 strips measuring 2.5″ x width of fabric
for backing :
cut the four yards in half (selvage to selvage)
for blocks :
choose 2 layer cake squares

sewing instructions for blocks :

each square will be cut into fourths (you will have 4-5″ squares)

of those 4 squares, pull one aside, cut one of the squares into fourths (you will have 4-2.5″ squares), cut the last two square in half horizontally (you will have 4-5″x 2.5″ strips)

this is how you will layout your two blocks

sew rows and press to the darker print, then sew those rows together nestling the seams, and press flat

repeat for all remaining blocks

once you have completed making all the blocks, lay them out in 6 blocks by 7 block rows
sewing instructions for sashing :

sew sashing strips on the right hand side of all the blocks other than the far right exterior blocks – the border fabric will later be sewn there

sew blocks together, into rows

sew sashing and corner stones for center horizontal sashing, press towards corner stones

nestle and pin horizontal sashing to rows, sew

sew rows together and press

sewing instructions for borders :

1. cut one 1.5″ x width of fabric strip in half, sew each half end to end with a 1.5″ strip – you will now have two 1.5″ strips – sew each strip to the top and bottom of the quilt top, trim excess and press open

2. sew remaining 1.5″ x width of fabric strips into two longer strips – sew each strip on either side of the quilt top, trim excess and press open

quilt and bind

long arm quilting by Kathy Olkowski

58″ x 68″ throw quilt

Trish Poolson
{www.notesofsincerity.blogspot.com}

Baby Showers Quilt

Mar20

Hi there! It is LeAnne Ballard from Everyday Celebrations with a fun baby quilt for you today. Like many, I absolutely adore the new line April Showers and loved making these two baby quilts. The design is the same for both, appliqued raindrops, but the placement is different for each quilt.

I hope you have fun making this quilt! Check out my other recipes here.

Per Quilt

10 fat quarters*
1 1/2 yards background/neutral fabric
1 1/2 yards backing fabric
1/2 yard binding
2 1/4 yards fuisble webbing (I prefer Heat n’ Bond Lite or you can use your preferred applique method.)
template plastic (Print out raindrop template and trace onto template plastic. Transfer markings from the raindrop onto the template plastic. Cut out template.)
batting

*Note: You could also use jelly roll strips for the scrappy raindrops and fat quarters/fat eighths for the solid raindrops.

Decide whether you want to make the normal or staggered layout:

*All seams are 1/4″ unless noted.

Cutting

From the 1 1/2 background/neutral cut:
{4} 12.5″ x WOF strips
subcut into {4} 10.5″ x 12.5″ rectangles for a total of {16} rectangles
*Note: If you are making the staggered raindrop quilt, trim {4} of the rectangles to 10.5″ x 12.25″. Place these in a separate pile and label. This is the only cutting difference between the quilts.

From each fat quarter cut: the remaining fat quarter will be used for the solid raindrops
{2} 2.5″ x 21″ (or width of the fat quarter) strips
from each strip subcut {1} 9.5″ x 2.5″ and {1} 11.5″ x 2.5″ (I just left the remaining strip. The strip needs to be at least 11.5″.)

Binding
From the 1/2 yard for the binding cut:
{5} 2.5″ x WOF strips

Prepare Applique
Trace {16} raindrops onto the fusible webbing using the raindrop template. Transfer markings onto the fusible webbing. Roughly cut around each raindrop leaving about 1/4″ around each raindrop. Next, cut out the centers of the raindrops leaving about 1/2″. This will help keep the quilt cuddly and soft instead of stiff from the fusible webbing.

Block Assembly

Vertical Raindrops

1. For each vertical raindrop select {4} 2.5″ x 11.5″ strips. Arrange as desired and sew. Press seams OPEN. Make a total of {4} vertical units. (You will have extra of these strips.)

2. Flip the unit over and line up the mark at the bottom with the center seam as shown below. Line up the tip of the raindrop with the same center seam. Quickly fuse in place. (I found it easier to “baste” the fusible web in place by quickly lifting the iron up and down over the webbing. Then I flipped the unit over to the front and fused as directed by my instructions. Otherwise, it was easy to mess up the directions of the seams.)

3. Cut out the raindrop. Leave paper in place until you are ready to fuse in place. Repeat for {4} vertical raindrops.

Horizontal Raindrops

1. For each horizontal raindrop select {5} 2.5″ x 9.5″ strips. Arrange as desired and sew. Press seams open. Make a total of {4} horizontal units.

2. To line up this raindrop, fold the unit in half and lightly press to create a crease. Fuse the webbing in place just like you did for the vertical raindrops, just use the crease as you guide. Repeat for {4} horizontal raindrops.

Solid Raindrops

1. Select {8} of the fat quarters for your solid raindrops. Fuse the raindrop fusible web onto the remaining part of the fat quarter. (Follow the directions for your brand of fusible webbing.)

2. Allow to cool then cut on tracing line. Repeat for {8} solid raindrops.

Patchwork Raindrop
If you opt to make this block, make in place of one of the solid raindrops.

1. From one of the remaining fat quarters cut {1} 4.75″ x 11″ piece and {1} 3.5″ x 11″ piece. From the leftover 2.5″ strips cut {6} 2.5″ squares.

2. Sew together all the 2.5″ squares. Press seams all one direction. Trim unit to measure 11″ long. I just trimmed a little off the top and bottom.

3. Sew the pieces cut from the fat quarter to either side of the patchwork unit. Mine didn’t line up exactly which is fine. It doesn’t have to be perfect.

4. Flip unit over with the patchwork unit to your left. Line up the mark on the raindrop with the seam line running the length of the patchwork unit. Fuse in place and cut raindrop out.

Fuse Raindrops to Background

1. Fold the background rectangles in half lengthwise to create a crease.

2. Remove paper backing and center raindrop onto the rectangle. Raindrop should be about 1.5″ inches from the sides and 1.25″ from the top and bottom. Fuse in place following webbing directions. Repeat for all raindrops.
*For the staggered layout: Adhere {2} of the SOLID and {2} of the VERTICAL raindrops to the slightly smaller (12.25″ x 10.5″) rectangles. These will go in the positions shown below. (Don’t sew the quilt top together yet, this picture just references where the smaller rectangles will go.)

3. Machine stitch around each raindrop to secure in place. This can be done in a variety of ways. You could use a zig-zag, satin, blanket (if your machine has that option), or a simple straight stitch. For my quilts I opted to use a blanket stitch and straight stitch. With the straight stitch, I sewed about 1/4″ away from the edge of the raindrop. Note if you choose to use a straight stitch, the raw edges will fray and wear over time. This step is easiest to do BEFORE you sew the quilt top together.

Quilt Assembly

For the regular layout:
1. Arrange the quilt units in {4} rows of {4} as shown below.

2. Sew units together in rows and press seams one direction, alternating from row to row. Then sew rows together. Press seams one direction. Press entire quilt top.

For the staggered layout:
3. Cut 2 of the SOLID raindrops in half, NOT the slightly smaller ones. Cut the unit in half to make {2} 6.25″ x 10.5″ units. These will go in the positions below:

4. Sew units together in rows and press seams one direction, alternating from row to row. Then sew rows together. Press seams one direction. Press entire quilt top.

5. Then baste, quilt, and bind!

one 40″ x 48″ baby quilt

LeAnne Ballard

{everydaycelebrate.blogspot.com}

Have A Heart Baby Quilt

Mar9

Hi, my name is Alison Tudor of Sew and Tell Quilts. This is a fun and quick project that could make a wonderful quilt for a baby girl or a large Valentine’s Day wall hanging.

Moda fabric Printemps
Designer 3 Sisters
Materials Needed:
1 Jelly roll 44030JR
1-1/2 yards Printemps Linen 44035-11 for background and border blocks.
3/8 yd Printemps Primrose 44030-13 for border.
1/2 yd Printemps Tonal Scarlet 44036-15 for inner border.
1/8 yd Printemps Scarlet 44037-15
1/4 yd Printemps Tonal Primrose 44036-13
3 yards backing fabric
3/8 yd binding fabric (5 strips 2.5″)

Cutting Directions

Cut 251 2-1/2″ squares of Printemps Linen 44035-11 for the background and border blocks.

Cut 24 2-1/2″ squares of Printemps Tonal Primrose for the inner corners.

Cut 59 2-1/2″ squares of a good mix of light and dark prints from the jelly roll for the heart.

Cut 4 2-1/2″ squares Printemps Scarlet for the “L”

Cut 4 2-21/2″ squares Printemps Pond 44031 14 for the “O”

Cut 5 2-1/2″ squares Printemps Scarlet 44037 15 for the “V”

Cut 4 2-1/2″ squares Printemps Buttercup 44034 12 for the “E”

Cut 4 1-1/2″ x WOF strips Printemps Tonal Scarlet 44036-15 for inner border.

Cut 42 2-1/2″ squares Printemps Primrose 44030-13 for outer border blocks.

From your choice of binding fabric, cut 5 strips measuring 2½” x WOF

Quilt Assembly

Working in sections, following the sectional layout diagram, sew the 2-1/2″ squares together to construct the rows. Press the seams in opposite directions for each row to help make the seams line up as you build the quilt top. Once all the sections have been completed, stitch the sections together to complete the quilt top center.

Sections Diagram

Making The Borders
For the inner border, cut two 1-1-2″ strips 38″ long and two 1-1/2″ strips 40-1/2″ long. Sew these to the sides and the top and bottom of the quilt top center. For the outer border, alternately join pink and cream colored 2-1/2″ border blocks to make a strip. Two sides should require 20 blocks; 10 of each color measuring 40″. Two sides should require 22 blocks; 11 of each color measuring 44″. Sew these to the sides and the top and bottom of the quilt to complete the top.

Quilt Layout Diagram

Finished quilt 44″ x 44″

Alison Tudor
{Sew and Tell Quilts}

Quilt As You Go Improv Pillows

Mar7

Hi All! This is Jera from www.QuiltingintheRain.com bringing you a creative weekend project. This pillow uses a modern Quilt as you Go technique which will be featured in my upcoming book, Quilt-As-You-Go Made Modern, to be released this Fall. I’m so excited to share this technique with you all!

The Quilt as you Go technique is very creative as it doesn’t follow a precise pattern. Rather, it takes on more of a improvisational style of piecing and quilting. For updates on my latest quilting endeavors, check out my Quilting in the Rain Facebook page and blog. You can also find me on Instagram. Thanks so much for stopping by and enjoy the tutorial!

Please Note – For this pillow I used leftover Layer Cake squares from the April Showers Collection by Bonnie and Camille. Leftover fat quarter scraps will work too. For the solid borders, I used Moda Solids Prairie Cloth in Buff (this material is home decor weight but has a linen/canvas feel to it). For the back of the pillow, I used Moda’s Twill (home decor weight), Nautical Ticking Stripes in Red.

For Pillow No.1 (14″ x 14″ pillow cover):

1 layer cake square (or a 10″ square cut from a fat quarter)
1/4 yard border fabric
3/8 yard Backing
15.5″ x 15.5″ batting square (needle-punched batting)
pillow insert

For Pillow No.2 (16″ x 12″ pillow cover):

6 layer cake squares for variety (or six different fat quarter prints)
1/4 yard border fabric
3/8 yard backing
17.5″ x 13.5″ batting square (needle-punched batting)
pillow insert

For Pillow No. 1 (14″ x 14″ pillow cover):

1. Take a 10″ square and place it in the center of the batting. Place a few pins to help keep it down. Then, quilt it directly to the batting. As shown below, make sure your stitch starts and ends on the batting.

I did free-motion quilting with some simple loopy-loops. If you’ve never free-motion quilted before, now is a good time to try it out as it’s easier to do it on a smaller, more manageable block.

2. From your border fabric, cut two 3.5″ strips along the length. Take a strip and trim it with fabric scissors so it’s the same length as the side of the square. With right sides facing together, sew a 1/4″ seam allowance.

3. Press open, and then quilt lines that run parallel to the seam. There will be some extra fabric hanging over the batting. As shown below, make sure your stitch starts and ends on the batting.

4. Take the strip and trim it with fabric scissors so that it measures the length of the square and strip that you just pieced together, as shown below. With right sides facing together, sew a 1/4″ seam allowance.

5. Press open, and then quilt lines that run parallel to the seam. There will be some extra fabric hanging over the batting.

6. Repeat the previous steps until there is border fabric surrounding all four sides of the square. You are essentially piecing fabric in a log-cabin style method, but quilting it directly onto the batting as you go.

When you are finished, the entire batting will be covered and will look similar to this.

The back will look similar to this:

Flip the block over so the batting side is facing you. Trim the excess fabric sticking out side of the batting. Then, flip it over so the patchwork is facing you and trim approximately 1/4″- 1/2″ from all four sides so that your block measures 14.5″x14.5″.

7. Next, create an envelope closure for the backing. From your backing fabric, cut two 11″x14.5″ rectangles. Along the length, turn the edge 1/4″ under, press, then turn under 1″, then press again. Stitch along the fold to keep in place to create a pretty seam. Repeat on the other rectangle as well.

With right sides facing together, take one rectangle and align it along the left side of the pillow cover. The finished seam you created from the previous step should be facing toward the right. Pin to keep in place, then sew a 1/4″ seam allowance along the perimeter as illustrated by the dashed line below. Start and end your stitch with a back-stitch.

Repeat with the other rectangle, but align it on the right side of the pillow. Lastly, trim the corners to get rid of bulk fabric, and then turn right side out.

Insert the pillow and there you have it! 🙂

For Pillow No.2 (16″ x 12″ pillow cover):

Please note: For this pillow, the same exact technique that was described above (for pillow No.1) was used, except with smaller pieces of fabric. The technique I explained from the first pillow will give you the basic understanding you need to complete this next pillow. That being said, I will not list step-by-step instructions. Rather, I have listed the order in which the strips should be pieced. Enjoy!

1. From your fabric, cut one 3″ square and a couple 2″ strips from each print (you will trim these strips as needed).

2. Start by placing the 3″ square in the center of the batting, and then quilt it. Next, add strips making sure to trim them with fabric scissors to the correct size. Add the strips in the following order, using the quilt as you go method previously described. For this pillow, I quilted straight lines that ran parallel to all of the seams.

Tip! Fabric can shift while stitching on the batting. Correct for this by keeping the strips aligned and ‘square’ them as necessary. The seams of each successive piece should be at a 90° angle to the previous quilted piece.

Also, please note that your pieces will shift around slightly and the batting will stretch a little – this is completely normal. So don’t expect yours to look as straight as the illustration above. =)

3. From your border fabric, cut one 5-6″ wide strip along the length. With right sides facing together, place the strip along the length of the patchwork as shown below. Overlap the strip with the patchwork as needed to straighten it out, and as mentioned in the “Tip!” above. Sew.

4. Press the strip down, and then quilt lines that run parallel to the seam. Repeat for the top so that the entire batting is covered.

5. Flip the block over so the batting side is facing you. Trim the excess fabric sticking out side of the batting. Then, flip it over so the patchwork is facing you and trim approximately 1/4″- 1/2″ from all four sides so that your block measures 16.5″x12.5″.

6. Next, create an envelope closure for the backing. From your backing fabric, cut two 11″x12.5″ rectangles. Repeat step 7 from Pillow No.1 to create the envelope closure and to finish your pillow.

And that’s it! Quilt as you Go is a fun and different way to quilt. I hope you enjoyed learning this new improvisational technique! Now that you know the concept, you can get really creative with all the other fun Quilt as you Go pillow designs you can think up!