Sweet Baby Diamonds Quilt

For those who don’t know me — I’m Tracey from traceyjay quilts (and traceyjay quilts pattern shop)!  I have one handsome husband, two sweet and adorable children, and I love to quilt when I have the time (which is rare these days!)

I made these two quilts for two sweet babies in my life (no, not my own).  This little tutorial has been in the works a long time!  I actually finished a second one for my niece (in Sunkissed) before the original was done.  I hope you can forgive the delay; I would personally like to think I have a good excuse.  😉  So — even though these particular lines are now hard to find, I have no doubt this design would sew up beautifully in Reunion, the new Lucy’s Crab Shack or even Mama Said Sew… as it already was adorable in two other Sweetwater lines.

I need to note for those who want to make one of their own — there was a lot of “winging it” while making this quilt, and the measurements are not exact and precise in all ways.  This tutorial is then my attempt to give you a bit of insight in to my (less than perfect, but hey they work) methods.  I would not recommend this design for a first project, because you are working with so many bias edges, as well as oddly shaped setting triangles.  If you’re willing to exercise a little patience, I’m confident though that you’ll love the results.

1 Jelly Roll (Pure by Sweetwater featured)
WIP to be finished

1 yd. contrast for sashing (will have some leftover for binding)
1 yd. for setting diamonds and triangles
1/2 yd. or charm pack for border
2 yards backing (might need more if sending quilt to a long-arm)
leftover jelly roll strips and sashing for binding

– Sort your jelly roll strips by dark, medium, and light value

– Group in to sets of five, following the pattern of dark/light/dark/light/dark and light/dark/light/dark/light.  If your sashing is dark in value, you will need three sets with light on the outside, and two sets with darks on the outside.  Switch if your sashing is light (like in the Sunkissed example), and make more groups with dark on the outside (twenty-five strips total, with thirteen light and twelve medium or dark — reverse if using light sashing).  The picture below shows a set of strips that are dark/light/dark/light/dark.

– Sew in to sets with a 2″ off-set for each strip (see picture).  There is no need to trim selvage.  Press very well (either open or to one side; I alternated directions for the dark vs. light strip set)

– Rotate strip set to opposite side (so that the one on top is now on bottom — the green in this picture) and trim at a 45 degree angle.  I use both the line on my quilting ruler as well as the line on my cutting mat, to ensure accuracy and consistency.
– Flip strip set back over, and continuing to follow the 45 degree line, cut 2 1/2″ wide pieced strips.  You can get as many as ten pieced strips per strip set, but you only need to get eight.  Be very careful with your cutting, continuously checking for the accuracy of your angle and 2 1/2″ width and 45 degree angle.

– You will be piecing the strips together like this, alternating a strip with dark on the outside, next to one with lights on the outside.  Here are some tips for helping to ensure good matching points.
– I found that pressing the side down 1/4″ on one of the strip sets was sometimes helpful to see directly where the two sections lined up.
– This picture shows the piece with the 1/4″ pressed over lined up and pinned in place next to the other piece.  You will then stitch directly on the wrong side of the pressed crease.  
This is an up close shot of how it looks at the intersections of your pieces. 

Press seams open when joining sections. 

There is a quarter inch off-set when each section is joined to the next.

– Make eight diamond blocks (each with five strip pieced sections — see pic directly below for what a finished block looks like)


Setting triangles:

Start by making a template.  I use freezer paper, but regular paper (or something else you choose) would work too.  Trace the diamond on to the freezer paper, and cut it out.

Using the template, you need to make setting triangles for your sides, corners, and top/bottom.  Depending on your fabric choice (if it is directional or not), you will need to pay attention to how you orient your template.  I like freezer paper because I can just iron it down, and then use the rotary cutter to cut my setting triangle.

This is an example of a corner setting triangle (the top right to be specific)  You want the fabric to extend past the mid point of the diamond shape.  It helps to draw midlines on your template (vertical and horizontal through the centers) so that you can make sure your setting triangle is larger than those midlines.

This shows how the template is placed for the bottom middle setting triangle.  When you cut — extend the lines straight at the bottom (rather than cutting along the template edge — the black line in the picture shows the cutting line).
Here is how the side setting triangles will be.  Again — extend the cutting line past the midpoint, and cut straight past the edge of the template like you did with the other pieces.
Lay your blocks out as shown.  If using dark sashing, place the blocks with light at the points for the top three, then dark for middle two, and light again for the bottom row.  You can see how the setting triangles will be arranged with the blocks.  (and yes, having tractors to watch really does help). 😉

This picture also shows how your rows will be sewn together (diagonally).

 Cut and piece 1 1/2″ strips long enough for your length of sashings.  You will need some “short” sashing strips (that go along the edge of the blocks/setting triangles in one direction, and some “long” (that go along the edge of the rows to join the rows together).  Use your template, or measure the edge of your block, and make sure there is enough length to fully extend past the edge, so it can be trimmed later (this is important when dealing with bias edges.

Sew a length of sashing along the “short” edge of your setting triangles or block.  The end of the sashing will extend past the end of the triangle or block.  Use your ruler to trim the edge.

Here is the “short” piece of sashing trimmed.

When joining two blocks together along the “short” edges, use your quilting ruler and measure 2 1/4″ from the edge (as shown in picture), and then trim the overhang of the sashing.

Piece your blocks and triangles together in diagonal rows, and then join diagonal rows to one another, with a long strip of sashing in between.

It can be tricky to join the rows of diamonds lined up when adding the sashing — I pressed a 1/4″ seam along one edge (similar to when joining the strip-pieced sections for the blocks), and then used a pencil to mark where the sashing needed to line up in order to make a straight line of the “short” edges.  (This is another one of those spots I mentioned earlier where I did some “winging it,” and you might be able to tell from the picture that particular seam was ripped at least once so I could get it right.)

Square up your top (I did not have precise measurements here — I just did my best to even out all my edges!), add a 5″ strip or pieced charm squares on each side, and you’ve got a quilt top!

Make your backing; Layer; Baste; Quilt; Bind — Done!

For the variation of this quilt I did for my niece Libby, in Sunkissed, I framed each block with a coordinating solid, then sashed in white, used assorted fabrics for the setting triangles, and used a charm pack for the side borders.  This makes for a bigger quilt overall — just make sure you use the block WITH the framing to make your template for the setting triangles.  The other steps for making this quilt are the same as described in this tutorial here.

Little diamonds for Libby

A very “sweet” quilt measuring about 42″ x 56″

If you decide to make this, I’d love you to stop by my blog and show me!  And please add pictures to my little flickr group!
Tracey Jacobsen


Summer Squares Quilt

Hi everyone! My name is Maria Wallin and I’m so excited about sharing my very first Moda Bake Shop tutorial with you all! =)

I still cannot believe I’m actually “one of the Bake Shop girls!” Ever since I first discovered the online quilting community, these fantastic ladies have inspired me and I’m so happy to be able to share something of my own in return. Please pop over to my blog Not Only Quilts to see more of my creations revolving around, but not limited to quilts – as you might have guessed from the name 😉

This quilt is something I’ve had roughly sketched and dreamed about making for some time but had not found the perfect fabric for until I saw the Sunkissed by Sweetwater line. I really hope you’ll like it as much as I do.

1  Charm Pack (Sunkissed by Sweetwater)
1  Jelly Roll (Sunkissed by Sweetwater)
1/2 yard of white “middle border” fabric (SKU# 9900 98 white)
1/4 yard of “border” fabric (SKU#5443 23 orange stripes)
3/4 yard of green fabric for binding and applique (SKU#5447 11 green)
3 1/2 yards of backing (SKU# 5441 26 swirls)

Thread matching the colors of your fabric for applique
Invisible thread for trapunto
Choice of your favourite applique tools/fusible web, in my case I used “Steam A Seam” fusible web
Scrap pieces of batting for trapunto

Step 1 – Cutting 
* First, cut each still folded jelly roll strips from the selvage side, leaving one continuous folded piece left once you’re done cutting, save that scrap for later. Cut one 5″ section and one 9″ section from each strip (so you’ll end up with two of each piece).

* Then cut two extra “jelly roll strips” (2.5″ Width Of Fabric strips, will from here on out be referred to as “WOF”), one from the green yardage and one from the backing. The jelly roll only has 40 strips and we need 42 for this project. Cut them up the same way as the others above.

* Cut 7 strips of 2 1/4″ WOF strips of the green yardage for binding right away (if you’re using anything but a low loft cotton batting, you might want to increase that to 2 1/2″), the rest can then safely be used for applique.

* Cut your white yardage to two 9″ WOF strips, cut one in half at the fold (you’ll only use one of the halves, the other is a scrap).

* Cut your orange striped yardage into 3 2.5″ WOF strips. Split one of them in half at the fold like with the white fabric, but of this we’ll use both halves.

Step 2 – Assemble your quilt blocks
This part is very simple. Take one of the charm squares and add two of the 5″ jelly roll strips to the sides. If you have directional fabric, make sure you align them the way you want them to be aligned now and put the short stripes on the left and right side of the block.

Press the seams apart to reduce bulk and add your 9″ stripes to the sides. Put aside the extra piece of jelly roll for later (we’ll use some of them for applique).

Make 42 blocks.

Step 3 – Assembling parts of your top
Layout your quilt blocks in a pleasing pattern in a 2×6 pattern and then in a 5×6 pattern for the rest of the blocks.

Sew your rows together, then iron the seams of the rows in opposite directions so you can nest the seams when you assemble it. Join your first two rows, then don’t join those with the last five but instead join the last five as their own separate section.

Step 4 – Making the “middle border
Sew together the white fabric the one WOF piece to the half WOF piece giving you a continuous 66″ long white piece. Do the same with the orange strips, sew one half orange strip to a full WOF strip, giving you 2 66″ x 2.5″ orange strips.

Attach the orange strips to the sides of the white one.

Press seams apart to reduce bulk here as we’ll be doing applique on top of it.

Then lay it out next to your quilt and cut away the excess fabric.

Step 5 – Applique and trapunto
We haven’t assembled our entire top because you would have one rather bulky piece to work with at this point, making it much more difficult.

Now you can either just choose your favourite method of applique and skip the step 5 instructions below or follow along as we make a simple trapunto applique variant here. I’m sure there are tons of better ways/more correct ways to do trapunto – I’m very much a beginner at this, this is just the method I came up with for this quilt.

Step A – Drawing and cutting your applique pieces
Trace all your applique pieces (the ones I drew and used can be downloaded in the printable version of this post) onto your choice of fusible web, leaving a little space around each so you can attach them to the fabric and cut around them.

I personally like to use Steam A Seam (have yet to try the “lite” version, I’m sure I’ll love it even more) as it’s double stick and therefore allows you to rearrange your pieces while they still stick to the fabric. You can move your work around with the pieces in place before you’ve ironed them on permanently, allowing for more precise placements. If using it for the first time, make sure you read the instructions, as it’s a little different from normal fusible web.

Step B – Attach and cut your applique shapes
The pieces of jelly roll scraps should fit 5 of the big petals. Choose a print you really like for this as it will be a big focus piece:

For the center of your flower and your small flowers that you’ll be putting in the intersections of the blocks, you’ll probably want to double your fabric so nothing can be seen through your applique shapes. Simply add some fusible web in the rough size of your flower to your strip, fold it in half, fuse with the iron, and then add your applique shape.

Cut out your applique shapes and arrange them in a pleasing manner before ironing them down:

Spread out the little flowers in intersections over the quilt as desired/use them to embellish the white border more or maybe you wish to just leave them out.

Step C – Adding batting for trapunto effect
Now take a big scrap piece of batting that covers your entire flower and some area around it and pin it carefully in place a little outside of your applique.

Once pinned securely in place, roughly but carefully cut around the pins on the outside to remove any excess batting and thereby avoid any “double batting mishaps” (I learned that the hard way) that can happen otherwise if you leave the unpinned batting in place once we get to the FMQ part. Please use blunt tipped scissors and go slowly to make sure you don’t cut into your fabric.

Step D – Sewing your raw edge applique
Attach your FMQ foot to your machine and lower your feed dogs. Don’t be afraid of this even if you’re a beginner like me at FMQ; it’s quite easy to get a nice result if you just go slowly.  Thread your machine with a thread matching the color of the applique piece you’ll be working on. Bring up your thread an inch or so outside of the applique shape.

Then move to your applique’s edge and take a few short stitches close to each other to secure the thread while still holding onto your thread tails. This way you won’t have to tie your threads; you can just clip them.

Carefully sew around the edge of your applique, and once you’ve moved away from your starting area, you can clip the top thread. You do this as we go around the applique shapes at least twice to get a nice stitch line (the thread could tangle otherwise).

Sew around all of your shapes. If you want add more layers of batting for extra effects in places, feel free. I choose to do so for the center of the big flower once I’d sewn around it’s edges, I just added a second, small piece of batting in the area you want to highlight.

When all seams are done, very carefully cut away excess batting around your trapuntoed areas, taking much care to not clip into your fabric! If you don’t feel comfortable clipping as close as I did, don’t worry about it; it’ll look great anyway. It’s much more important to have a top without holes in it!

Step 6 – Assembling your quilt top
Assemble your quilt top by sewing the top and bottom sections onto the middle border we just finished.

Step 7 – Baste and quilt
Back and baste your quilt with you preferred method (you can use up the rest of the jellyroll scraps and make a pieced back?) and quilt your top. I choose to do a loose loop-de-loop pattern with little flowers thrown in the mix for good measure on the squares and then a meandering stipple for the white section to really make the trapunto pop.

Step 8 – Finishing up the trapunto
When your entire quilt is quilted as desired, change to invisible thread in your machine and stitch over all seams in your trapuntoed areas with invisible thread in each seam. This will really bring out the effects of the trapunto.

It will make the applique stand out all full and nice. The picture doesn’t really do the effect justice, but at least you get the idea!

Step 9 – Bind and you’re done! =)

One very summery, super yummy ~50″ x 70″ Summer Squares Quilt!

I also made a matching little “Summer Squares Table Topper” from the jelly roll scraps, a quick tutorial for it can be found on my blog:

I hope you’ve enjoyed reading this tutorial as much as I enjoyed making it! If you end up making one of these – I’d so love to see it! Please send me an email {maria@idztech.com} with a picture as I’d be so excited to feature it on my blog =)

Maria Wallin
{Not Only Quilts}

Sunny Side Up Pillow


Tam from Sew Dang Cute Crafts here today to share with you this bright and cheerful pillow. Thanks to my Facebook fans, the name of this pillow is Sunny Side Up.

  • 1/2 yd fabric
  • 1 jelly roll (I used Sweetwater’s Sunkissed)
  • (1) 16” pillow form
  • Starch or fusible interfacing
  • 3” circle template {included in the Printer Friendly Version at the bottom of the post}

1. Cut (2) 15” x 15” squares from the 1/2 yd fabric. If you have a pillow form that is a different size than the 16” I used, just cut your fabric 1” smaller than your pillow.

2. Select several strips from your jelly roll. Cut them different widths ranging from 1” – 2”.

3. Sew your strips RST (right sides together) using a 1/4” seam allowance. Press the seams open.

4. We are going to use these sewn strips to cut our 3” circles from.

5. You have two different options at this point – 1) you can use starch or 2) you can use fusible interfacing. If you choose to use starch, go ahead and starch and iron about 4 times so your fabric is really stiff and easy to cut. If you choose to use fusible interfacing, go ahead and apply that to the wrong side of your sewn strips.

6. Take your 3” circle template and trace 9 different circles on either the fusible interfacing or the back side of the fabric, then cut those out. I have an Accuquilt GO! Baby fabric cutter, so I used my 3” circle die cut to quickly cut my 9 circles.

7. Arrange your circles on top of one of the 15” x 15” squares. If you starched, pin in place. If you used fusible interfacing, iron them on. All my circles were 1” away from each other and 1 3/4” away from the edges.

8. Stitch appliques in place using a straight stitch, zigzag, blanket stitch, etc. I used a very tight zigzag.

9. Pin your two 15”x 15” squares RST. We need to leave about an 8” opening to stuff the pillow form in. I marked mine with red pins so I knew where to start and stop sewing. Sew the two squares together with a 1/4” seam allowance. Clip the corners and turn right side out through your opening.

10. Stuff the pillow form in the opening and use a blind stitch (hand stitch) to sew the opening shut. Then you are done! You now have a beautiful pillow!

I hope you’ll come visit me at Sew Dang Cute Crafts for more tutorials, including the rest of the bedding and room décor that matches this pillow!

One 16″ x 16″ pillow.

Tamarynn Bennett
{Sew Dang Cute Crafts}

Cozy Wine Koozie

Hi!  I am Becky from over at SewSaneJane.  I am beyond excited to be able to provide you with this recipe.  It is my first Moda Bake Shop recipe and when I heard that I was selected, I found myself doing a nerdy little happy dance.  I was unable to wipe the smile off of my face for the entire day – and still every time I think about it!  Hope you enjoy this quick little treat as much as I enjoy having them around and giving them as gifts.
·   (3) pieces of your favorite layer cake (2 for the exterior/bottom  and 1 for the inside)
·  10×13.5 section of batting (your choice although I used cotton), separated (described below in cutting)
·  (4) buttons – your choice (mine were ½ inch size)
·  (4) 3.25” long sections of rope elastic

If desired – a 3” circle of rubber sheeting  (water barrier for the bottom)

1)      Find 3 pieces of your layer cake that coordinate

2)      Cut the two outside fabric layer pieces in half (5”x10”)
a.       Mix and match the two slices.  Set 1 pair aside.
b.      Cut a 3.25” circle from each of the fabrics from the remaining set (this will be the bottom).
3)      Cut your selected batting
a.       One piece should be 9.5×10.
b.      Cut a 3.25” circle from the remaining section of batting.
Piecing :
1)      Bottom of container: 
a.       Layer one 3” circle of fabric (right side facing down), rubber sheeting circle if desired, batting circle, and 2nd layer of fabric (right side facing up).   

Pin a couple of times to make sure sandwich doesn’t slide while sewing.  Sew a ¼” seam (raw edges showing) around the circle.
2)       Outside of jacket:
a.       Take the set of layer pieces you set aside, lay right sides together and sew one of the 10” sides together (use ¼” seam).  Iron toward darker fabric.
b.      Lay pieced exterior on top of batting, pin.  
c.       Measure and mark fabric (I used an erasing pen on light fabrics and chalk on dark fabrics) measure and mark 1.25” in from one edge down length of fabric.  Then measure and mark small cross hatches at 1.25″, 2″ from each end.  
d. Sew buttons to fabric/batting layer.
e.      On opposite edge, measure the same top/down for placement of elastic.  Fold elastic strips in half.  Place loop edge toward the center of the fabric.  Pin and sew elastic to the very edge of the fabric/batting layer (I used a 3 point zig zag stitch as my machine manual recommended it for elastic)  Repeat for each of the 4 loops.
3)      Add your layer of interior fabric to the mixture:
a.       Layer: (right sides of fabric should be facing each other with batting on the bottom).
b.      Pin together. 
c.       Sew around the perimeter – leaving a small opening on the bottom for turning (3” or so), snip corners.
d.      Invert through your bottom opening.  Push corners out, fold in edges from turning opening ¼” , and press.
e.      Add a 1/8” topstitch around the perimeter (this will sew shut the turning opening).
4)      Now attach the bottom to the sides:
a.       Make sure right sides are together. 
b.      Start at the top edge, match up a small section of the circle (on top) to the bottom edge of the body of the wine jacket.   Back stitch a couple of stitches, then sew a handful of stitches.  Stop, rotate the circle yet to be fed through with the edge of the other fabric.  Sew a handful of stitches and repeat.  
*As you are sewing, you will notice that the fabric is rolling up with the circle rather than feeding behind the machine.   When you get to the end of the fabric, backstitch a couple of stitches.
  c.       Turn rightside out

5)      And VOILA! Time to sit back, add a bottle of wine, and enjoy your hard work!

One fantastic, cute, cozy wine bottle koozie that fits a standard sized wine bottle.

Becky McGrath

Machine Applique Fabric Photo Album


Sitting and rocking, cozily wrapped up in a blanket while looking through photos, is a common occurrence in our household. Since both my family and my husband’s family live in other states, we like to take time to show our daughter pictures and review names of loved ones who live far away. I suppose this is a way for us to keep family members close to her heart and fresh in her mind –this was the inspiration behind the fabric photo album tutorial I’m going to share with you today.

Hi, I’m Angela Flicker and I specialize in machine applique, modern quilting, and sewn goods for children and the home.  My fabric photo album idea originated in a quilt.  I’m a predictable person by nature – a “rules girl” really, but with quilting, I find it’s important to do the unexpected, to push the traditional boundaries of what a quilt can mean. 

This original quilt idea was a hit –to wrap up in a blanket, while looking through photos, who wouldn’t want to do that? I made a quilt like this for my daughter and she loved it. We sit at night, looking at photos of loved one, all wrapped up and snug. If you’re interested, the quilt pattern is available here, and the quilt is on sale here. I used Urban Chicks’ “Dream On” fabric line for this quilt.

I wanted to make my daughter another photo album. I wanted it to have more pages and spots for photos. Like the quilt, I wanted it to be interactive and child friendly. I also wanted it to be made of fabric; I feel that fabric is more inviting than paper – it asks to be touched. And so today, I’m going to share my fabric photo album tutorial with you…

An Important Note: Concerning ingredients, there’s one thing I need to mention. When making photo albums, I still can’t decide if I like using clear vinyl or tulle better. When I first came up with this idea, the obvious material for the photo holders seemed to be vinyl. Yet, as I worked with this material, I realized that maybe it wasn’t and so I then tried tulle. After using both materials, the conclusion I’ve come to is that each material has its pros and cons. Tulle, while not as translucent as the clear vinyl, is much easier to work with, doesn’t glare, and can be ironed and dried after washing. Clear vinyl on the other hand, allows your pictures to be more visible and aesthetically, I like how the vinyl looks a little bit more. As you work through this tutorial, I’ll show you how to make both a photo page with vinyl, and a photo page with tulle — from there you can decide which material you prefer to work with.

For tulle photo pages, you will need:

  • ¾ yard tulle –54” wide (The most translucent you can find–I literally brought a photo into the store with me when I was buying the tulle, and laid it under various types to see which tulle gave me the clearest picture. Along with that, you want your tulle to be iron, dryer, and washer friendly.)
  • 8 ¾ yards of double fold bias tape (the thinner the better)

OR For clear vinyl photo pages, you will need:

  • ¾ yard clear vinyl –54” wide (Washer friendly)

You will also need:

  • 1 jelly roll –Sunkissed by Sweetwater 
  • 5/8 yard of fabric for the exterior of the photo album cover –Sunkissed Pink Sorbet Skinny Lines Yardage
  • 5/8 yard of contrasting fabric for the lining of the photo album cover –Sunkissed Misty Grey Life Defined
  • Batting –32 ½ ” x 18 ½ ” 
  • Ribbon –4 pieces of ribbon, each 10-20” long, depending on the thickness of the ribbon (thicker ribbon requires a longer amount to tie a nice bow)
  • Washable friendly wool felt –fat quarter
  • Thread
  • Safety pins and sewing pins
  • Rotary and straight edge
  • Sewing machine with a walking foot
  • Masking tape 
  • Freezer paper
  • Ironing starch
  • Ironing board & Iron
  • Small paint brush or Q-Tip
  • Tiny cup or dish
  • Scissors

  • Piping –15 pieces 16″ long = 240″ or 6 3/4 yards
  • Zipper foot for your sewing machine
  • Water soluble basting glue

Making the photo album cover:

  • Cut a 32 ½ x 18 ½ piece of fabric for the exterior of the photo album cover, and a 32 ½ x 18 ½ piece for the lining of the photo album cover. Also, cut a piece of batting 32 ½ ” x 18 ½ ” in size. Note: the fabric I chose to use for the lining of my photo album needed to run vertically. I only had ½ yard though, so I cut 2 pieces, 18 ½ x 16 ½ and had them overlap in the middle. This will be covered up when the photo album is bound, so it’s no big deal. If you run into the same problem, you could also sew the pieces together if you wanted.
  • Cut 4 pieces of ribbon, each 10-20” long, depending on the thickness of the ribbon. I chose a pretty thick ribbon for my book, and in order to tie a bow I needed my ribbon to be about 20” long.
  • Like basting a quilt, we are going to baste these pieces together. First, lay your exterior photo album cover piece down, right side up, and smooth out all wrinkles.
  • Next, lay the liner piece down, wrong side up, on top of your backing, smoothing out the wrinkles and matching up the edges and the corners.
  • Place the batting on top, matching up the edges and the corners.
  • Carefully fold the sides of the batting and the lining back, to reveal the cover. Using a ruler, measure and place a ribbon, right sides together, 2” from the top and the bottom of the side of the album cover, and pin in place. Carefully fold the batting and the lining back on top of the ribbon and the cover, being careful to keep the ribbons away from the edges so that they aren’t accidentally sewn down.
  • Repeat the previous step for the other side of the book.
  • Smooth everything out and use safety or quilter pins to baste the layers together around the perimeter of the album cover. It’s a good idea to peek between the layers to make sure the ribbons are basted down as well.

  • Sew around the perimeter using a walking foot and making sure to go through all the layers, using a straight stitch and a 1/2” seam.  Leave an 8” opening on one of the longer ends, so that you can turn everything right side out at the end.

  • After you are finished sewing around the exterior, clip the corners, and sew a straight line along that clipped corner.
  • Take out the pins and turn everything right sides out, through the 8” opening. Push the corners out from the inside, making a nice point, line everything up, and press, making sure to press the ½” seam allowance under along your opening. Pin your opening closed.
  • Sew around the entire album using ¼” seam allowance.  (Note:  It’s important to use a walking foot anytime you are sewing with batting.  My walking foot is built into my machine, so it might look different than yours.)
  • Your photo album cover is now assembled. Set aside.

Making the photo album pages:

Note: The directions below yield 4 double-pages that hold a total of 48 – 4”x6” photos.

  • For tulle photo pages: cut 6 rows of white washable/iron friendly tulle, width of fabric, 4 ¼” wide. Sew a strip of thin bias tape on the long side of each strip of tulle. Crosscut the rows into 48 pieces that are 4 ¼” x 6 ½”.

  • OR For vinyl photo pages: cut 4 rows, width of fabric, 6 ½” wide. Crosscut into 48 pieces that are 4” x 6 ½”.

  • Each double-page is 8 fabric strips tall. Layout four sets of 8 fabric strips from the jellyroll and label with masking tape.
  • Working with one of the sets, remove strip 1 and strip 8, and put them aside. Pin strip 2 to 3, 4 to 5, and 6 to 7 and sew, using a strict ¼” seam allowance. Press seam allowances flat.

  • For each strip-pair (2-3, 4-5, and 6-7), crosscut the strip-pair into 4 pieces that are 6 ½” wide, 2 pieces that are 1 ½” wide, and 1 piece that is 4 ½” wide. Set the leftover fabric aside for later use.
  • Move the pieces around and layout the double page to your preferences. You can even crosscut strips 1 and 8 if you like.
  • Here’s a diagram showing how the double page lays out:
  • Put a piece of tulle OR a piece of clear vinyl on top of each 4 ½” x 6 ½” piece of fabric.

  • Take pieces that are next to each other, put right sides together and pin, making sure to line up the bottom of the tulle OR the vinyl with the bottom of the other fabric pieces. Also, make sure to line up the center seams. Sew using a strict ¼” seam allowance otherwise your photos wont’ fit properly.

  • If you are working with a heat tolerant tulle, press seam allowances flat and continue to assemble each row. If you are working with the vinyl, DO NOT IRON as the vinyl will melt; instead, use a bone folder or straight edge to try and create a crease.
  • When all three rows are assembled, sew them together, again using a strict ¼” seam allowance (otherwise you might sew the picture holders shut).

  • Sew strips 1 and 8 onto the top and the bottom. Trim any access fabric.

  • Take your double page and fold it in half, putting right sides together. Iron down the center to create a seam. Line up your seams, adding the garnish piping between your layers as you pin. Pin and sew around the three sides using a straight stitch.  I recommend using a zipper foot if you have one.

  • Take out the pins, make a 5″ slit in the center seam, and turn everything right sides out, through the opening.
  • Repeat the previous steps to make an additional 3 double-pages.
  • Note: I made one of my pages plain, without any photo slots, and instead I sewed baby clothes onto it. Can you see the pretty piping? I used all different colors.

Adding applique, quilting, and binding your photo album:

  • On a regular 8 ½” x 11”piece of paper, on horizontal setting, print 2 of the camera images included in the Printer Friendly Version.

  • From one of the copies, cut out the larger camera and the larger circle. From the other copy, cut out the smaller camera and the smaller circle. Trace these four images on freezer paper, mirrored from the original, on the non-waxy side of the freezer paper, and cut them out.
  • Starting with the smaller camera, iron the camera image, waxy side down, to the back of some fabric scraps that have been sewn together.

  • Cut around the camera, leaving a 1/3″ inch.
  • Spray some starch into a little dish and with a paintbrush, or Q-tip, apply starch to the 1/3″ seam allowance.

  • Cut a snip into all the valleys.
  • Give the item one quick iron, to absorb some of the moisture of the starch, and then use the edge of the iron to press the fabric over the freezer-paper. You might need to hold the iron still for about 3 seconds to allow the starch to do its job. Feel free to add more starch if the fabric is not creating a super stiff shape or if you mess up and want to try again for a better shape.
  • Turn the shape over and observe. Continue to use your iron and starch to get everything folded over nicely, making a perfect and crisp shape. Pull out the freezer paper and press the applique item flat.
  • Iron both the large camera image and the large circle, waxy side down, to the back of some washable-friendly wool felt. When dealing with wool, the edges do not fray, and so you don’t need to turn under the raw edges. As a result, these images can be cut out with no seam allowance around them.
  • Using water soluble basting glue or sewing pins, baste your applique images to the cover of your book.

  • Finally, iron your small circle, waxy side down, to the back of some fabric scraps that have been sewn together. Cut around the circle, leaving a 1/3″ inch seam allowance. Using a needle and a thread, carefully sew around the entire circle, about half way in between the raw edge and the freezer paper.
  • As you work around the circle, pull the thread tight to get the fabric to cinch around the freezer paper. When you are finished, and you have a lovely circle, tie a knot, remove the freezer paper, and use an iron to define the edges and flatten the circle.
  • Using either water soluble basting glue or sewing pins, baste your final applique image to the cover of your book.
  • Baste your photo album cover again, using safety pins, and quilt your photo album cover like you would a quilt. Don’t forget to use a walking foot.  Quilt the applique images, securing each of them down to the cover. Please realize that your sew line on the applique camera, needs to hold down both the applique image, as well as it’s seam allowance that is neatly pressed under. You can use a zigzag stitch or a straight stitch that runs close to the edge, no wider than 1/8″ in. 
  • When your photo album cover is quilted, and your applique camera is sewn down, it’s time for the final step of binding your photo album –by binding, I don’t mean the sewing term, rather the book binding term. Align all of your pages and carefully pin them down, using safety pins.
  • Loosen the tension on your machine, install a heavy duty needle, and carefully sew through all the layers. You are sewing through quite a bit here, so make sure you prep your machine. If you’d rather sew the book closed by hand, that is an option as well. For strength, I sewed two lines, the first about 1″ in and the second about 1 1/4″ in from the edge of the book center.

One fabric photo album.

Well, that’s all folks.  You can visit me over at my blog, The Artists’ House –The Art of Making a House a Home, or at my Etsy Shop.  I’ve really enjoyed putting this tutorial together; I sincerely hope you enjoy making it.

Angela Flicker
{The Artists’ House}

Sunkissed Aprons

Hi there Moda Bake Shop Bakers, it is LeAnne over at Everyday Celebrations. With all the baking going on around here, it is about time to make some aprons!  The great thing about this project is you can pick whatever fabric line you love to make aprons that fit your personality. One layer cake will yield at least four aprons. Or, since only 10 squares are needed, use some leftover layer cake squares from a previous project.  Whatever layer cake you decide to use will result in a darling apron that will make you want to get baking in the kitchen or the sewing room!

 {Absolutely loving the color combo of gray and yellow!}

1 Layer Cake
3/4 yard for lining and front of apron ( 1 1/4 yards if you are going to increase the size of the apron)
1/2 yard for ties and straps
1/4 yard neutral fabric (this will not be seen)
Pattern piece, found in the Printer Friendly Version. Make sure ‘auto scale’ and/or ‘shrink to fit’ option ARE NOT SELECTED.

Note on Sizing:
This apron fits teens (as modeled) through adult. (I wear a size medium/large top and I still had room in this apron.) To get an idea how this apron will fit on you, take a tape measure and measure 21″ from  hip to hip. This is how the apron will measure across you when finished. The apron top measures about 14″ across at the bust.  Instructions for increasing the size of the pattern are included with the Printer Friendly Version.  (In the measurements an * indicates where changes need to be made if you are altering the size of the apron.)

1. Unfold your 3/4 yard of fabric. Fold one selvage to the middle of the fabric. (Make sure it is the EXACT middle or you may not have enough for the lining.) Place pattern piece on the fold and cut. This will be the ‘front’ of your apron. You will cut the lining from the remaining fabric shown in the photo.

Optional: To make a pieced section at the top of the apron, as shown in the gray and yellow apron, cut the apron front as marked on the pattern piece. (For the lining however, cut as directed in step 2.)

Next, cut out the following pieces from the layer cake squares:
(1) 2.5″ x 3.75″
(2) 3″ x 3.75″ 
(1) 2″ x 3.75″
(1) 4″ x 3.75″
(1) 1.75″ x 3.75″

Sew the pieces RST end-to-end using 1/4″ seam allowance. The length of this piece should be about 13.5″. Press seams open. Sew this piece to the top edge of the apron front using 1/4″ seam allowance. Press seam open. To curve the edge of this new piece, fold the apron front in half and use the pattern piece to trim to size.

2.  From the remaining fabric above, cut (1) 25″ long x 21.75″* wide piece. Fold in half, matching the long edges. Place pattern piece on the fold as shown below. Cut only along the curved edge of the apron as shown in the second photo below.

 3. When you unfold the lining it will look like this:

4. From the neutral fabric cut:
(3) 4″ x 21.75″* pieces (for the under ruffle pieces)

From the 1/2 yard strap and tie fabric cut:
(4) 3.5″ x WOF pieces (ties) – trim selvages off and cut to 36″ in length
(1) 2.25″ x WOF piece (strap) – trim selvage off and cut in half

5. Take (2) 3.5″ x 36″ tie pieces and place RST. (Pressing helps keep edges lined up.) With the two ties still RST angle one end of the tie as shown below. Repeat for remaining tie.

6. Sew the tie RST using 1/4″ seam allowance. Leave the not angled end open for turning. Clip corners at the angled end of the strap. Turn right side out and press. Repeat for remaining tie. 

7. Topstitch around the tie about 1/8″ away from the edge. (I did not topstitch the opening.) Repeat for remaining tie.

8. Press under 1/4″ on one of the short ends of a strap. (This end will be the end you want showing on the apron.)

9. Fold the strap in half lengthwise and press to crease. Unfold the strap and fold one long edge to the center crease. Press. Repeat for the other side.

10.  Fold strap in half again and press. (The raw edges will now be turned to the inside.)

11. Sew the strap closed by starting at the end that you folded under. Start sewing away from fold and continue down the open side of the strap. Backstitch at the beginning and end. (Basically I didn’t sew down the folded edge of the strap.) Repeat steps 8 -11 for the other strap.

12. Select 8 – 10 Layer Cake Squares. Cut in half so they measure 5″x10″. (You will only need 16 5″x10″ rectangles, so you can either choose 8 Layer Cake squares and use each print twice, or choose 10 Layer Cake squares to have a little  more variety in prints.)  Lay out the 5″x10 rectangles in four rows of four to help you determine which prints you want to make up each ruffle strip.

13. Sew each row of four rectangles together short end to short end using 1/4″ seam allowance. Press seams open.  (These seams will be the only exposed raw edges. Serge or zig zag if you desire. However, I just left the pinked edges as they were.)

14. Turn under the bottom edge of ruffle strip 1/4″ and press. Repeat. Sew folded edge in place.

15. Turn under the short ends of each ruffle strip 1/4″ and press. Repeat. Sew folded edge in place. Repeat steps 14 – 15 for all the ruffle strips.

16. Ruffle the top edge of each ruffle strip using the method of your choice. (Ruffle about 1/8″ away from the edge.) Need help with ruffling? Check out my tutorial here. Repeat for all the ruffle strips.

So pretty!

17.  On the apron front piece and three under ruffle pieces, mark 1/4″ from both bottom short ends. (See my purple marks below.)

18. With the right side down, pin one ruffle strip to the bottom edge of the apron front. Use the mark you made above to place the ruffle strip 1/4″ away from the edges of the apron front. I like to place a pin at the bottom of ruffle strip to keep the strip nice and straight. (See green pin in the second picture.) Sew ruffle in place 1/8″ away from the edge.

19. With the ruffle strip still right side down, place one under ruffle piece on top of the ruffle strip.  (Make sure the edge with the purple mark is at the top. See outlined black circle.)

20. Flip over the apron to the back and pin under ruffle piece in place. (I pin from the back because I will be sewing on the back.)

21. Sew just beyond the stitching line from sewing on the ruffle, about 3/8″ from the edge. Backstitch at beginning and end. Press seam up towards the top of the apron. Topstitch the seam in place.

22. Turn the ruffle to the top of the apron. You will now see the under ruffle piece. Place another ruffle strip right side down and repeat steps 18 – 21 for remaining ruffle strips/under ruffle pieces except for the very last ruffle strip. 

23.  When you add the last ruffle strip, you will only repeat step 18.

24.  Mark 1/4″ from the bottom of the curve on the apron front. Place a tie below the mark and pin as shown. Baste tie in place with 1/8″ seam allowance. Repeat on the other side. (Keep tie pinned down in the middle of the apron.)

25. Mark 1/4″ in along the top edge of the apron. Line up the edge of a strap with the mark and pin. Baste strap in place with 1/8″ seam allowance. Repeat on the other side.

26. Since this apron is lined, pin the straps to the middle of the apron to keep  in place.

27. Using basting pins, pin the ruffles away from the edges and to the center of the apron.

28. Place the lining and the apron RST and pin from the back. (Again, I like to sew from the back so I can watch my stitching lines.) Sew the apron together using 1/4″ seam allowance. Leave an opening along the bottom for turning. After sewing, press, clip corners, and turn. Remove all pins.

29. Topstitch beginning along the bottom edge, making sure to close the opening.  Continue top stitching around the rest of the apron. When you get to a ruffle, backstitch, stop sewing then remove apron from machine. Clip threads, return apron to the machine, and begin sewing after the ruffle.

One layer cake will yield 4 – 8 aprons

LeAnne Ballard
{Everyday Celebrations}

Simple Spring Table Runner or Place Mats

Hey everyone! It’s been a while and I’ve missed you! In case you don’t know me, I’m Natalia Bonner, I blog, sew and create over at Piece N Quilt. Take a second and stop by my blog. Today I’ve created a fun table runner or some darling placemats for you to enjoy.

1 Sunkissed Layer Cake
2 Yards coordinating fabric for background
2 Yards coordinating fabric for backing & binding

Begin by tracing an 18″ circle onto your background fabric. I used a large mixing bowl for my template.
You will use the templates included for your applique pieces. I prefer to use starch applique. You can find my full tutorial here.

For the daisy place mat you will use a green background, add 10 half circles as shown in the image above.

Then add a grey 8″ circle.
Then add 9 pink 2″ circles and I green 2″ circle.
Machine quilt the square and then cut to size and bind after machine quilting.

For the Spring place mat you will first applique 6 small orange petals onto 6 grey petals. Off-set those and applique onto green background.

Add a large print circle and a small pink circle to the center.

Add the word “spring”.
Machine quilt the square and then cut to size and bind after machine quilting.

For the Daisy Wheel cut applique 1- 8″ green circle and 1 -7″ white circle.

Applique 6 pink daisy flower petals.

Add a large yellow center and a small pink center.
Machine quilt the square and then cut to size and bind after machine quilting.

For the dots place mat, you will applique one 7″ yellow circle in the center.
Then applique 12 small green circles around the outside and 1 green circle to the center.
Machine quilt the square and then cut to size and bind after machine quilting.

Now that you have created your darling placemats it’s time to turn them into a table runner.
To the left side of each place mat you will add 1 button.

On the right side of each place mat, you will make a buttonhole.
And that’s it! You’ve created some quick and simple placemats or one darling table runner!

4 – 18″ round placemats or 1 table runner.

Natalia Bonner
{Piece N Quilt}