120-Minute Gift: Cinnamon Spice Tree Skirt/Table Topper

Hi there, it’s Cathy Victor from “Me and My Mum Quilting”, and I’m pleased to be bringing you my second Moda Bake Shop tutorial.  The great thing about this pattern is its versatility, you could swap out any 9″(9-patch) blocks for those that I’ve chosen.  Also you can make two tree skirts or table toppers from each layer cake.

So grab your favorite holiday layer cake and let’s get started…I am using the Blackbird Designs collection “Cinnamon Spice.”

As always I love to hear from you with your comments, questions and pictures.  You can find me at {Me and My Mum Quilting}

1 Cinnamon Spice Layer Cake (2700LC)
3/4 yd red fabric (2700-12)
1-1/2 yd Bella Solid (9900-60) {This includes enough for the table topper backing.}
Backing: 1 yd (2705-12)
Binding: 1/2 yd (2706-12)This is enough for both.

Decorative Buttons

For the tree skirt you need the following:

4 layer cake squares (a)
1 LC square (b)

2 LC squares (c)
2 LC squares (d)
1 LC square (g) middle square

4 LC squares (e)
4 LC squares (f)
Approx. 1/4 yd of yardage

approx 1/2 yd of yardage

Cutting Instructions

Lay out the 4 (a) green squares and cut as follows:

Cut two {2} 2″ x 10″ strips from the bottom of the square

From the remaining piece, cut two {2} 2 5/8″ strips.

Subcut the previous 2 5/8″ strips into four {4} 2 5/8″ squares. Set aside the cut pieces until later; the leftover piece is not needed.

Next…from the Green square (b), cut two {2} 2 5/8″ strips…..

Subcut into four {4} 2 5/8″ squares. The rest of the fabric is not needed.

The Beige (c) blocks are for your hourglass blocks. From each of your two Beige (c) squares…cut from two {2} 4 1/4″ squares. The rest you do not need.

From your two Beige (d) squares…..Cut from each Beige (d) square three {3} 2 5/8″ strips.

Subcut into a total of 18: 2 5/8″ squares (9 of each fabric. You only need 16 so 2 are scrap. You do not need the rest of the fabric.

Go ahead and grab your 4 Red (e) squares…From the Red (e) squares, cut two {2}: 2 3/8″ strips.

Subcut into 8: 2 3/8″ squares (for each print). You will have a total of 32 squares. (8 in 4 different patterns.) You will not need the rest of the fabric.

The Red (f) squares are for the flying geese blocks and bricks. From your 4 Red (f) squares…cut a 2″x10″ strip from the bottom.

Then, from the remaining piece of each square, cut three {3} 2″ x 8″ strips.
There is a approx 4″ x 8″ piece leftover that you will not need.

Cut the bottom (2″ x 10″) strip and one of the 2″ x 8″ strip into four {4} 2″ x 3 1/2″ rectangles (bricks). Do this for all 4 prints for a total of 16 bricks. Set aside the remaining 2″ x 8″ strips until later. The rest you will not use.

Now grab the Red yardage. Cut two {2} 3 1/2″ strips. Subcut into four {4} 3 1/2″ x 10 5/8″ rectangles and four {4} 3 1/2″ x 5″ rectangles. (I cut out an extra 4 for the table topper, but if you aren’t making it don’t bother.)

From the White yardage, cut two {2} 2″ strips, one {1} 3 1/2″ strip, one {1} 3 3/4″ strip, and three {3} 2 3/8″ strips.

Subcut the 2″ strips into 9″ lengths.

Subcut the 3 1/2″ strip into sixteen {16} 2″ x 3 1/2″ bricks.

Subcut the 3 3/4″ strip into four {4} 3 3/4″ x 5 5/8″ rectangles.

Subcut the 2 3/8″ strips(3) into forty {40} 2 3/8″ squares.

Grab your remaining layer cake square (g) and cut it to: 9 1/2″ x 9 1/2″.

Assembling the Blocks 

So the first blocks to assemble are the flying geese blocks. Grab the 2″ x 3 1/2″ white bricks and the red bricks and strips that you cut from (f) LC squares. Also set aside the white 2″ strips and the green 2″ strips from (a). They will be coming up shortly.

The following pictures show how the blocks progress from beginning to completion….
You should now cut your red 2″ x 8″ strips into 2″ squares. You need 8 squares for each block and there are 4 blocks to make this tree skirt. That makes for 32 red squares all together.

Draw a diagonal line from corner to opposite corner. This is your sew line.

Place the red square on top of the white brick, and sew along the diagonal line, cut off the corner, leaving a 1/4″ seam. Press toward the red fabric. Place a matching red square on the opposite corner so that the line creates a point with the other red corner and sew. Cut off the corner, leaving a 1/4″ seam and press toward the red. You now have a flying geese block that measures 2″ x 3 1/2″.

Continue until you have completed 4 flying geese blocks of each pattern. Match these up with the bricks of the same color and pattern.

Sew the flying geese to the bricks so the seam crosses over the point of the flying geese block.
Press away from the flying geese block.

Next up green/white 4-patch blocks…..Grab the white and green 2″ strips and sew them together into twosie strips. Press toward the greens.

Cut the twosie strip into 2″ sections. Spin 1 section so that opposite colors are aligned. Matching seams, sew into 4-patch blocks. Press in either direction.

You will have a total of sixteen {16} 4-patch blocks (4 of each pattern).

Next up the hourglass blocks….Grab the 4 Gold (c) squares. They measure 4 1/4″ square and we are going to cut along both diagonal lines (from corner to opposite corner; in both directions)

Lay out the 2 patterns in the configuration shown in the picture.We will be sewing down the short side of these triangles first…..

Sew them all the same way, with the same fabric on top of the opposite color on the bottom. They all go through the same direction, do this until you have 8 pairs of triangles.

Press toward the darker of the 2 triangles.

This photo shows how the block progresses from a twosie triangle…Matched up with another… Matching seams and sewing to form an hourglass block. Press either direction …Trim off the dog ears, the block should measure 3 1/2″square.

You now have all the components needed to complete the first block…Match each pattern of red to a pattern of green and create an hourglass block as shown in the photo.

Lay out the above squares into the design shown in the photo. This will make 4 star blocks.
Sew them row by row and then press. I pressed away from my flying geese blocks.

This photo shows how they are pressed.

Go ahead and sew the rows into the final block, nesting seams and pinning if necessary. Press away from the middle row.You have now completed 4 blocks.

Grab the red 2 3/8″ squares and cut diagonally once from corner to opposite corner.
This will give you 64 triangles. (16 of each pattern.)

Do the same for the white 2 3/8″ squares…There are 80 triangles when you are finished.

Match up the red triangles with the beige 2 5/8 ” squares that were cut earlier. You can see in the photo that my green 2 5/8″ squares will be matched up with the white triangles.

Lay out the beige squares and red triangles, like the photo shows.

Make sure that when you line up the triangles you have equal amount of “dogears” on both sides. Go ahead and sew down the first side. Sew the opposite side the same way. Press the triangles toward the beige square. Trim off the dog ears and continue sewing the triangles to the remaining sides.

Press either way and trim off the dog ears. The photo shows how the block progresses.
Continue until you have completed all the red/ beige blocks.They should measure 3 1/2″ square.

Repeat the process with the green squares and white triangles. This photo shows how they progress.

You now have 4 piles of red/beige blocks and 4 piles of white/green blocks. Set them aside for now, we will return to them later.

Now take the red 3 1/2″ x 10 5/8″ rectangles, and carefully fold them in half lengthwise and press to make a visible crease. Next, cut a diagonal line from the bottom right corner to the crease line like in the photo.Then do the other side from the bottom left corner to the crease line (point).

With the white 3 3/4″ x 5 5/8″ rectangles, make 2 piles of 2. Cut diagonally once from bottom right to top left for the 1st pile.And cut the opposite direction (from bottom left to top right) for the other pile, like the photo shows.

Layout the pieces as shown in the photo.

Line up the white triangle with the red triangle point showing a little past the white, as shown in the photo.Your sewing machine needle should come down exactly where the 2 fabrics line up.

This photo shows how the blocks progress. Press towards the red fabric. Place the opposite white triangle in the same manner and press toward the red fabric.Trim off the dog ears.

The block should now measure: 3 1/2″ x 9 1/2″

Do this with all 4 red triangles. Set aside for now.

Next up grab the 4 red rectangles that measure: 3 3/4″ x 5 5/8″ and cut 2 diagonally from: top right to bottom left and,Cut 2 diagonally from: top left to bottom right.Set aside for now.

Remember these blocks? We will be assembling them into rows for the next step…Lay them out like in the photo, I put identical squares into the same block.(except for the central green/white square. it is from the extra pile of squares.) It is going to be the middle square in all 4 blocks.

Go ahead and sew them into rows.Make sure to match the points where they meet. You can pin them if you like.

This photo shows how I pressed the rows:I always pressed away from the white squares.Continue sewing all the squares into rows. BUT DO NOT sew them into larger blocks.

They are sewn together differently than normal to achieve the shape of the final tree skirt.

Next grab 1 of each pattern, the row shown in the photo….

And the red triangles we cut earlier.Lay them out like the photo shows with the flat side of the red triangles aligned with the bottom of the row of blocks.Sew them together and press toward the red triangles.

Next, grab the remaining rows of blocks….Lay them out exactly as the photo shows, making sure the fabric patterns match.Sew the rows together, making sure the bottom block is “pointing” to the other 2 rows.And that any points are aligned. Pin if they need a bit of help.Press toward the middle row.

You have now completed the other 4 blocks and are ready to assemble the tree skirt.

Grab the 4 blocks finished here and the 4 star blocks finished earlier and the Layer cake square that was trimmed down to 9 1/2″ and find a space to lay them out.

Lay the assorted blocks out, like the photo shows, moving the blocks around until you like the way they look.Sew them into rows, pinning where seams and points line up.Press away from the star blocks and central square. (doing this ensures the seams will nest nicely).

Next sew the rows into the nearly finished tree skirt, and get the remaining rows ready to add as borders.

Attach the border pieces to the sides, lining up the square in a square blocks and pin in place.
Sew the borders in place and press.

Now get ready to trace the hole for the tree stand.  I used a bowl for my template, you can use whatever makes the hole the size you like. Trace around the hole and straight through the middle of the tree skirt.(this bi-sects the square in a square blocks).

Quilt as desired…may I also recommend stitching around the circle you traced and down both sides of where the opening will be. This will ensure the tree skirt doesn’t shift while you are binding it.
Carefully cut the traced line for the opening and around the circle.

Your tree skirt should now look like this….

Get your buttons and ribbon out…..Place your buttons on the tree skirt, to decide where you want them. With a pencil, make marks on both sides of the opening for button and loop placement.

Cut your ribbon to 3″ lengths….

 Sew them in place along the opening with a scant 1/4″ seam that will be hidden in the binding.
I also pinned them down so they wouldn’t get caught up in the binding.

Prepare your bias binding strips and proceed to sew it around the tree skirt.

You may need to stop sewing and re-position the binding when rounding corners.
This is how it looks with the binding on.

Now I just sewed it down to the backside.( just make sure that you don’t sew the loops into the binding when you do this).

With the binding done, sew the buttons in the position you marked on the opposite side from the loops. You’ve completed the tree skirt!!!

Next up a table topper from the rest of the layer cake and fabric. It is the same pattern, just don’t cut out a circle and opening. I will list the substitutions for the fabrics, but follow the cutting and assembly instructions listed at the beginning of the tutorial by the letters in ().

Table topper substitutions…..
Pinks: 4 layer cake squares (a) (by cutting 5 – 2 5/8″ squares from each pink you eliminate step (b).) Leftover Red: 2 LC squares (c) hourglass blocks.
Approx 1/4 yd of yardage (4 – 3 3/4″x5 5/8″ and 4 – 3 1/2″x 10 5/8″ cut as per earlier instructions.)
Green: 2 LC squares (d)
Beige: 4 LC squares (e) 4 LC squares (f)

* For the whites, follow the cutting instructions below, but the assembly instructions above*
2 Identical LC squares(4- 3 3/4″x 5 5/8″ rectangles)
4 LC squares (4– 2 3/8″ squares from each cut once diagonally to yield 32 triangles. Some of this can be leftover from previous.)
6″ yardage ( this section is for the 4-patch blocks and the flying geese units in the star block)
1 LC square for middle block (g) cut to 9.5″ square

Assemble the blocks as per the instructions for the tree skirt. But don’t cut the hole in the middle square or the slit for an opening. Quilt and bind as desired….

A Cinnamon Spice Tree skirt that measures approx. 33″ square. Perfect for any traditional Christmas setting.

A Cinnamon Spice Table Topper to compliment your Holiday decor. It also measures approx 33″ .

I hope you enjoyed this tutorial and that you will make one for yourself and maybe some loved ones too. Have a happy and healthy holiday season.

Season’s Greetings!

Cathy Victor
{Me and My Mum Quilting}

Dancing Daisies (A Drunkard’s Path Quilt)

Hi, It’s Cathy Victor from “Me and My Mum Quilting” and I’m very pleased and excited to be posting my very first Moda Bake Shop tutorial.  This tutorial is for all of you quilters who have been nervous about trying a Drunkard’s Path quilt. I will show you an easy way to put together a layout that I call “Dancing Daisies.”
I chose to use Moda layer cakes for my quilt, but charm packs could be used instead, or yardage of course.  

I hope after seeing how easy it is to make this quilt, you’ll make one for yourself or a loved one.  Please feel free to ask any questions or leave me any comments. You can find me on my blog: www.catequilter.blogspot.ca 
I’d also love to see any pictures of your own Drunkard’s Path.

Quilt Top

1 Layer cake (or 4 charm packs) of Marmalade by Bonnie & Camille 55050LC

1 Layer cake (or 4 charm packs) of Bella Solids 9900LC-11

4 yards of 55052-17 

1/2 yard of 55054-15 

* If making the bonus pillow you will need 46″ of additional yardage.*


Grab your Marmalade Layer Cake and open it up.  If you don’t want to make the bonus pillow, you may remove 2 squares that are doubles or that you don’t like.  I stacked three at a time, lining them up perfectly, and cut them into four 5″ squares. Continue doing this until you have completed the stack. Leave these stacks them in 4 identical piles (you’ll see why in a minute).

Grab your Bella Solids Layer Cake (or yardage), and do the exact same as above. Leave this in 4 piles, as well. You will have 40-42 squares in each pile.

Here are my piles:

4 piles of Bella Solid and
4 piles of Marmalade

Again, they measure 5″ square.

Grab 1 pile of your Marmalade squares and 1 pile of Bella solid squares and proceed to the next step…

Click on the Printer Friendly Version at the bottom of this post to download the template I used for tracing.  I traced the pattern onto some rigid cardboard, so it wouldn’t bend when I was tracing the shapes onto the fabric. You can use template plastic or just regular paper if you are careful. If you have an acrylic ruler or set of templates for Drunkard’s Path, use those instead.

Place the “clam” template on the WRONG side of your Marmalade squares.  I put the straight edges of the template aligned with the cut edges of the fabric.

I did piles of 3.  I found more than that moved too much.  Do as many as you are comfortable with.

Trace around the template with pen or pencil (that you can see) being careful not to disturb your fabric.

Next, place the “arch” template on the same pile of squares.  Match the template to the opposite corner.

There is some fabric visible at each end of the arch and also a sliver between the line you drew previously.

Trace along the edge of the Template using a pen or pencil, being careful not to disturb the pile.  You can pin the pile together in a few places to hold them together if you like.

Using scissors, I cut along the arch line, while holding the opposite end in your fingers.  Again, do not disturb the alignment of your piles.

Then, cut the tabs of the ends.

Next pick up the “clam” piece and cut off the sliver.  You can throw those extra pieces away.

Do this for all the Marmalade squares from your first pile.( 40-42 squares)

Do the exact same thing, to your pile of Bella solids.  Throw the excess cut bits away.

You now have 4 piles:

40 solid “clams” & 40 Marmalade “arches”
40 Marmalade “clams” & 40 solid “arches”.

I chose to do the Marmalade “clam” set first, but it doesn’t matter how you do it.

With right sides together, place the pieces as illustrated.  Pin.

Ease the pieces together so that they line up, every 1/2″ or so and pin.  

Ease and pin…

Ease and pin every 1/2″ or so and pin until you reach the other end.

This is what the pieces should look like when pinned.

This is the other side of the same block.

Try doing some pinned and then try some without pinning and see which method you prefer.  I don’t pin mine, but do what works best for you. 

Regardless of whether you pin or not they are sewn in the same way.  Start with the corner illustrated and using a 1/4″ seam begin sewing around the curve. 


With the needle in the lowered position, sew 5-7 stitches (1/2″) approx. then stop.

Needle down.

Lift your presser foot and line the fabrics up for the next bit.

Lower your foot and continue sewing around the curve 5-7 stitches at a time.

Stop with needle down.

Lift presser foot and align fabrics for the next bit.

Lower presser foot and continue sewing around the curve 5-7 stitches more.

Stop with needle down.

Continue doing this until you reach the end.

See how I swiveled the edges near the end so they line up.  Make sure you do this.

It goes much faster than it sounds, but again, try pinning some and not pinning some and see which method you prefer.

Do the same for the other set of pieces ( solid “clams” and marmalade “arches”.  Again with Right sides together.)

I pressed the blocks toward the Marmalade pieces.  They should measure 4.5″ at this point. 

If the “clam” or the “arch” don’t line up at the ends, you can square them up. Place your ruler onto the block and align the bottom left corner at the 4.5″ junction.  Line up the arches at the 3.25″ line in both places, as illustrated, and if anything extends outside the upper right side of the ruler you can trim this off.

 Yay! you just finished 80-84 blocks.  Take a break!!!

 When you are ready, grab your 2 piles of ironed blocks…

 They are laid out in this position, so find a large open space to lay out your blocks.

 Grab 2 of the Marmalade “Clam” blocks and place them in a diagonal position,starting in the upper left corner and the other in the bottom right position. Do this until all your “clam” blocks are laid out.

 I tried to make sure that no 2 patterns or colors were in the same block.

 Next, grab 2 of the Marmalade “Arches” and fill in the spaces left from the previous step.

Do this with all of the remaining “arches”, until you have all the blocks the way you like. DO NOT CHANGE THE PLACEMENT OF THE BLOCKS THOUGH!!!

Double and triple check that all the pieces are in the right configuration.

 When you have them all verified to look like the layout on the left, carefully transfer them to a ruler or other rigid surface. 

Layer them all onto the ruler, and carry them to your sewing machine.

Sew them together, sewing first the top row and then the bottom row.  You do not need to iron them yet.

Then grab the top row and the bottom row and nest the middle seam so the top is pointing up, and the bottom is facing down ( this way they won’t get caught in the feed dogs.)

 You can press the block now.

It should look like this…

and measure 8.5″ square.

Continue, sewing your blocks together, and pressing until the pile is done.

You now have 20 or 21 blocks completed to this stage.

So grab another set of 5″ squares and begin at the start, tracing, cutting sewing, etc; until that set is finished to the above stage.

Do this for the remaining sets of 5″ squares, until they are all complete to this stage.

* Note*:  I sewed these in this manner so the drunkard’s path blocks were a manageable amount and that they would be combined in an evenly random way.  Also by doing them in smaller batches your body would be less fatigued.

If you’ve made it this far, the hardest part is over.  Give yourself a huge pat on the back!! You deserve it!

Grab the first 20 blocks that you assembled earlier.  They will be laid out in the daisy shape like the picture shows on the left. I tried not to have any 2 colors or patterns touching.  

Continue making daisies until you have a row of 5 flowers. You may have to move them around a bit to find the layout you like the best.

 Do the same with the rest of the blocks. Each pile will make a row of 5 daisies.

Continue until you have 4 columns of 5.

*If you opted to make all the blocks from the Layer Cakes you will have enough left over to make 1 flower block as a pillow.*

Begin sewing the blocks into rows.

 Make sure that you pin every seam and match up the curves, and pin, pin, pin!!

Trust me, pins will be your friend. 

Take the extra time and match your seams.  You will be much happier with the results.

This picture shows that my blocks have been sewn into rows. 

Next, sew those rows together until the quilt is assembled.

If you wanted to add borders, you would do that now, but I liked the way it looked without borders.

 To make the backing: cut your 4 yd piece in half at 72″.  Take your 2 pieces and cut the selvages off. Line up the edges right sides together along the selvage end(the 72″ long side) and sew.

Press the seam.  You now have a piece that measures: 72″ x 84″.

Sandwich your backing, batting and quilt top together, and quilt and bind as desired.  I cut my binding strips at 2″ and that gave me a 1/4″ binding.

Yay! you did it! One finished twin-sized quilt.

Next up, instructions for the bonus pillow sham….

Pillow Sham Bonus Instructions:

 Lay out your remaining 4 blocks in the design shown in this picture.

Sew them together and press.

Don’t forget to pin those seams where they meet!!!

Cut your border strips :

( I used the fabric I cut off the edges off my quilt after I finished quilting it.)

2- 2.5″ x 17″    and

2- 2.5″ x 21″.

 Sew the 17″ strips down both sides of the pillow block, press and trim to square.

 Sew the 21″ strips to the top and bottom of the block, press and trim to square it up.

Cut a 22″ x 22″ piece of fabric and batting to create a quilt sandwich.

Layer, and quilt as desired. Trim off excess batting and backing.

Take a 24″ piece of yardage and cut it into 2 pieces measuring: 24″ x 21″. Fold both of these pieces in half so they measure 12″ x 21″, and press the fold.   Sew a 1\4″ along the pressed fold. Do this for both pieces.

Lay the first piece on top of the pillow with the fold in the middle and the raw edges matched up.

Pin in place and sew along the raw edges.    

 Do the same for the other side overlapping the folded seams, but still matching raw edges.  Pin in place and sew along the raw edges.  Trim any excess away.  

 Now, turn the pillow right side out.  Make sure your points are crisp( I used a chopstick into each corner).

Press and pin so that the borders are laying flat and the back is smooth and has no puckers.

I hand-basted around the borders, so that when I sewed it on the machine, the fabric didn’t pucker.

 Sew in-the-ditch around the borders as demonstrated in the picture.  Remove the hand-basting stitches.

You have now completed an accent pillow!! Just stuff it and it’s ready to go.

I hope you have enjoyed this tutorial, and that I’ve taken some of the fear out of tackling a Drunkard’s Path quilt.

One twin-sized or throw quilt measuring approx. 64″x 80″ and one throw pillow measuring 20″x20″ ( fits a 16″ pillow). 

Cathy Victor