Bitty Bunting Quilt


Everyone loves a bunting quilt! I was inspired to make this quilt from the trimmings of another quilt. I was using a pattern that calls for dog ear corners from 2½” squares. The resulting triangles looked like pretty bunting flags to me (considering that the fabric was Bonnie and Camille’s Marmalade, any excuse to not throw out even tiny scraps, right?) I kept them in a bin on my cutting table for a few days and the idea of using Moda Candy for tiny bunting flags popped into my head.

Moda Candy are perfect for this quilt since folding them in half allows you to create two-sided flags that look very cute waving about. There are lots of ways to attach the flags – use bias tape like I have or sew them all down first and add ric rac trim. I’ve also made bunting quilts with Perle cotton stitches standing in for the bias tape. Use what you have on hand. There is really no wrong way.

If you want to use a solid background instead of piecing the ombré background, simply start with a 1½ yard cut. I’ve also included a girly color option below.

43 Moda Candy pieces* (equivalent to 1 packages plus 1 more.  I used a mix of Lucy’s Crab Shack, PB&J, and Oh Deer!)
4 yd of ¼” double-fold bias tape in coordinating color
¼ yd dark blue (Royal | Bella Solid 9900-19)
¼ yd cobalt blue (Bright Sky | Bella Solid 9900-115)
¼ yd bright blue (Capri | Bella Solid 9900-225)
¼ yd gray blue (Glacier | Bella Solid 9900-207)
¼ yd light blue (Blue Raspberry | Bella Solid 9900-84)
¼ yd white (White Bleached | Bella Solid 9900-98)

Binding: 3/8 yd preferred print (I used Silver | 9900-183)

Backing: 3¼ yd (I used bits of leftover blues and Lush Uptown | 26047-22)

*NOTE: You may use more or fewer pieces of Moda Candy, depending on how you swag your bunting across the quilt.

Alternative Fabric Choices:
For a girl version of this quilt, try using Shocking Pink | 9900-223, Popsicle | 9900-143,  30s Pink | 9900-27, Amelia Pink | 9900-166, and Parfait Pink | 9900-248 instead of the blues listed above.

1. Piece ¼ yd strips from light to dark to create ombré background. Trim the selvedges before you sew or leave them on and trim all of them at once like I did. Press each seam from light to dark.

2. Layer up with your backing fabric and batting and quilt.

3. Square up quilted background and set aside.

4. Time to sew the bitty bunting! Set your stack of Moda Candy next to your sewing machine. Fold the first Candy square diagonally from corner to corner to create a triangle. Press or pin to make it easier to sew.

Top stitch around the sides of the triangle. You can chain piece but be careful not to stitch your Candy pieces together.

5. Place one bunting triangle between your bias tape with the fold  facing away from the triangle point.  Top stitch along the opposite edge of the bias tape to close the seam.

6. Pin bitty bunting to quilted background so that it drapes from edge to edge.

7. You can attach your bunting by top stitching long fold of the bias tape OR use an invisible stitch to tack it down (that’s what I did).

8. Trim any loose threads and bind as desired.

A simple, sweet, and modern baby gift! Measures approximately  43″ x 51″.

Lisa Calle

Children’s Bed Runner & Matching Quilt

I am always excited to share a project with you using the beautiful fabrics from Moda. Today’s project is using a marriage of a Bella solid – American Blue 9900-174 with Sweetwater’s Lucy’s Crab Shack. This collection is a wonderful mix of colours suitable for both girls and boys.

The triangle blocks used in this projects are cut without templates. Therefore each block may have a unique character.

The quilt and runner were designed for a king single bed (mattress size approx. 42″ x 80″).

  • 1 – F8 Bundle of Lucy’s Crab Shack by Sweetwater (31 SKU’s)
  • 8.5 yards solid ( Bella Solid American Blue 9900-174)
  • 7 yards for quilt backing / runner centre – light blue dot (5486-22 Ocean)
  • Fusible webbing
  • 7 yards of trim or bias binding.
  • Dark blue embroidery floss

Please read instructions for both quilt and runner before starting.

From the solid blue cut:

  • 3 – 13 1/2″ x 90″ strips for solid rows
  • 22 – 9″ x 9″ squares (Piece 1)
  • 22 – 2″ x 7″ rectangles for Block B
  • 22 – 2″ x 16 1/2″ strips for sashing
From the prints cut:
  • 44 – 6 1/2″ x 9″ rectangles (Piece 2)
  • 36 – 2 1/2″ x 10″ strips for scrappy binding (Calculated for binding joined with a straight seam not at a 45 degree angle )
From the light blue dot cut:
  • 5.5 yards and halve to make 2.75 yard pieces. Join lengthwise to make backing piece.

From the solid blue cut:

  • 2 – 24″ x 16″ for pocket backing
  • 2 – 26″ x 41″ and join to make 26″ x 82″ piece for runner backing
  • 8 – 2 1/2″ strips for pocket and runner binding
From the prints cut:
  • 8 – 5″ x 5″ squares for applique
From the light blue dot cut:
  • 11 1/4″ x 46″ rectangle
  • 2 – 15 1/2″ x 22 1/4″
T-shirt applique template can be found in the PDF version of this post.

Block A – Large Flag, 22 blocks

  • Find the centre of Piece 1 by folding lengthwise in half and finger pressing.
  • Lay right side up.
  • Find centre of Piece 2 and place right side up on Piece 1 using matching the centres. ( 3 1/4″ )
  • Cut a triangle by starting at the 3 1/4″ centre mark and ending at the bottom corners of Piece 2.
  • Important :Keep the offcuts aside for use in the runner
  • Using a 1/4″ seam, sew from base of triangle to point. Press towards the solid. Repeat for the other side.
  • Use the 3 1/2″ marking on the ruler to find midpoint of triangle. Trim block back to 7″ x 8 1/2″ leaving 1/4″ inch seam allowance above triangle point.
  • Make 44
FInished Block 7″ x 8 1/2″
Block B – Small Flags, 22 blocks
  • Use 22 of the large flags and trim block to 7″ x 7″ using the 3 1/2″ marking on the ruler to find midpoint of the triangle.
  • Add a 2″ x 7″ strip of solid to the base of each block
  • Make 22. Finished size 7″ x 8 1/2″
Quilt Assembly
  • Layout pairs of Block A and Block B in rows of 11, alternating between the large and small flags. 
  • Label the rows 1 and 2. 


Hint: For Row 1, I started with Block A and row 2, Block B.

  • Sew pairs together.
  • Sew a 2″ x 16 1/2″ sashing strip to the tops of each block in Row 1.
  • Sew a 2″ x 16 1/2″ sashing strip to the base of each block in Row 2.
  • Measure through the centre of each row and note length. They should be approximately 88 1/2″.
  • Cut the solid 13 1/2″ x 90″ strips to the measured length
  • Sew finished rows and solid strips together.
  • Layout and pin trim, meandering down centre of flag blocks. Attach to quilt using a zig zag stitch and matching thread.
Hint: I chose a trim with a flower to make the quilt suitable for a girl. You could use a 1/4″ wide bias strip instead.

  • Quilt as desired and bind using a scrappy binding made from joining 10″ x 2 1/2″ strips of the print fabric together with a straight seam.


Block C – Make 44

  • Using the off-cuts from Blocks A and B, sew a print each side to the solid triangle.
  • Press seams towards the print.
  • Use the 2 1/2″ marking on the ruler to find midpoint of triangle. Trim block back to 5″ x 6″ leaving 1/4″ inch seam allowance above triangle point.
Finished block 5″ x 6″
  • Make 44

  • Sew 4 – Block C to make a row.
  • Repeat for Rows 2 and 3.
  • Sew Rows together reversing the direction of Row 2
  • Layer the pocket backing, wadding* (*batting) and pocket front and quilt as desired. Trim back to 14″ x 22 1/4″.
  • Cut 2 – pieces of 2 1/2 x 22 1/4″ binding strips and bind top edge of pockets

Centre piece

  • Sew 10 Block C’s together. Alternate the triangles facing up and down – Row 1
  • Repeat for bottom row – Row 3. Finished size of Rows 1 and 3 – 6″ x 46″
  • Take Row 2 – (11 1/4″ x 46″ blue spot rectangle) and sew Rows 1, 2 and 3 together
  • Using left over trim from bed quilt, undulate the trim starting 3″ from top of row 2. Pin and sew in place.
  • Trace T-Shirt pattern onto dull side of fusible webbing. Cut around shape leaving 1/8″ allowance. Press shape onto wrong side of fabric and cut on pencil line. Peel off backing and position on Row 2. Press onto Row 2 just below trim. Using your favourite appliqué stitch, sew around edge of T-shirts.
  • Using a few strands of dark blue embroidery floss. Sew little clothes pegs from trim to T-shirt.
Runner Assembly

  • Sew the 15 1/2″ x 22 1/4″ blue dot rectangles to each end of the centre section.
  • Layer the backing, wadding and centre piece and quilt as desired.
  • Place the pockets at each end of the finished centre piece and attach the pockets, using a tacking stitch 1/8″ from edge.
  • Bind the runner.

Quilt – Finished size – approx. 70″ x 88″
Runner – Finished Size approx. 22″ x 75″


Jane Davidson

Lucy’s Beach {Poetry} Quilt

“school is out, let’s give a cheer”
Hello again, this is Kimberly from My Brown Bag Studio and am I ever happy that it’s summer! Thanks for stopping by for a visit… put your feet up by the pool and stay awhile!
“for summer holidays are here”
I’m really excited to be able to share two of my favorite things with you today… 
“it’s time for flip flops on our toes”
…poetry and quilting!
“and purple sunscreen on our nose”
Oh, and it’s also a project that’s just perfect for a summer’s day spent at the beach… so gather your supplies and let’s get started!

1 Lucy’s Crab Shack layer cake
1 Bella Solids layer cake in Snow
3 1/2 yards Lucy’s Crab Shack Cream Trunks and Tops for backing
3/4 yard Lucy’s Crab Shack Deep Sea Flip Flop for binding
DMC thread for stitching poem in…
                       #3766 (light teal)
                       # 3750 (dark blue)
                       # 721 (orange)
                       #907 (green)
                       # 335 (pink)
63 inches square of batting (I used Warm and Natural)
Basic quilting supplies

1. Choose 18 prints from your Lucy’s layer cake and set aside. These will be the whole color blocks in your quilt.

2. From the remaining layer cake pieces, cut 96 – 2 1/2 inch squares for your  nine-patch blocks.

For the middle of my nine-patch blocks, I placed a square of the cream-on-cream number print.

3. Decide how your scrappy nine-patch blocks will look, and sew 12 blocks.

4. Take 12 of your solid layer cake squares and cut each into four 2 1/2 inch strips. Sew strips to top and bottom of each nine-patch block, then trim off the extra. {Trim these pieces to 2 1/2 inch squares to save for another project… I don’t know about you, but I can never have enough 2 1/2 inch squares!} Then trim 1/4 inch off either side of your block borders. Sew strips to the other two sides and trim 1/4 inch again. Blocks should now measure 10 inches square.

5. Arrange your 18 colored layer cake squares as you like them…

…then fill in the gaps with your nine-patch blocks, and 6 of the solid layer cake squares like so… Placement of the solid cream blocks matters, as you will be stitching the poem in them, so be sure to follow my layout!

 {And no, your eyes aren’t playing tricks… the first picture is the fabric laid out on my friend’s floor and the second is on mine… I love hardwood… any color!}

6. Sew it all together… row by row… to make your quilt top.

7. Click HERE to print out the poem and then find the center of each verse, so you can center it in your block.
 *Edited to add… I’m so sorry for the glitch with printing the poem! I believe I’ve fixed the problem (despite my limited computer skills!) Thanks to everyone who let me know there was an issue with it! I was informed through an email that it works to view through Internet Explorer.

8. Transfer to your quilt top (yes, I’m a pencil transfer-er) Use whichever method works best for you. Center one verse into each of the 6 neutral blocks.

9. When I make a stitchery project, I always stitch through to the batting layer. That’s just how I roll, you can stitch just through the quilt top if you prefer. Lay out your batting, smooth your quilt top on top… you want it a couple of inches larger than the quilt top all the way around…

…hoop a section, and back stitch your lettering. I stitched my quilt with 3 strands of DMC and tried to be random with the colors of the words, just for fun.

These are the 6 verses of the poem, after quilting…
verses 1, 2, and 3…
…and verses 4, 5, and 6…

10. Quilt as desired! I had my Lucy’s Beach {Poetry} Quilt professionally quilted by my friend Rhonda of Quilted Cats Hideaway… thanks a bunch, Rhonda! I love it!

11. Bind with 2 1/2″ strips of the navy dot fabric… and you’re ready for a day at Lucy’s {or your very own} Beach!

Lucy’s Beach {Poetry} Quilt measures approximately 57″ square.

Kimberley Friesen
{My Brown Bag Studio}

Child’s Nap Mat

Hello! Hello! Hello!  My name is Kristin and I blog over at  I also design and do custom work at   I have to say I feel like I have come full circle with Moda Bake Shop.  When I started sewing seriously about a year and a half ago I knew very little about sewing.   I was searching the internet and came across Moda Bake Shop.  It had me at HELLO!  I spent hours scouring through all the recipes and then the chef’s sights learning and absorbing all that I could.  When I received the invite to become a chef, I am sure, that there was an audible squeal coming from the Southeast Oklahoma direction.  Me, a chef?  This is so much fun!  Ok, enough of me jumping up and down and acting like a little girl.  Now for the tutorial…

This project can be easily adjusted just by adding or taking away strips. I also didn’t use many measurements because of this.  

1 Lucy’s Crab Shack by Sweetwater Jelly Roll
1 yard of coordinating fabric for backing
1.5 yards natural cotton batting

*use a 1/4″ seam allowance unless stated different.

The Top of Mat
Start by selecting 11 strips.

Cut the strips to a length of 22″.  Then sew them together. Side by side. Press your seams open.  This will allow the mat to lay flatter in the end.

Cut this piece in half giving you a head and foot for your mat.

Choose 15 more strips.  These will become the body of the mat. You only need 22″ from 14 strips.  You will use all of the 15th strip but you still need to cut it in half.  I just used the fold mark and cut there.  Arrange the strips how you want  and sew them together side by side. I wanted to use the same strip on the top and bottom just to add some continuity.

Square up all of your edges.

Sew the “head” and “foot”pieces to the body piece of the mat.

Cut 2 pieces of batting that are 2″ longer in length and width than the entire mat.  Cut 4 Pieces of batting that are 2″ longer in width and length than the head of your mat, this will become the pillow.

Layer the 4 pieces of batting under the head of the mat.

Start attaching the batting to the head of the mat by stitching in the ditch where you sewed the body and head together.  TAKE YOUR TIME with this step.  For the other 3 sides use a 1/8 “stitch.  

Trim the excess batting from your project.  I used my scissors for this seam so I could get really close to the seam.

I used my rotary cutter for the other 3 edges.

The Ruffle
Meaure your mat and determine length around.  Multiply that number by 1.5.  This will give you the length of strip you will need to make your ruffle.  Take any of the leftovers from your strips and sew them together to form one lone length.  Then fold your long strip in half and press.  Now you want to set your machine stitch on the longest length you have.  Stitch the entire length of the strip.  Then pull your strings until you have the desired ruffle.

Pin your ruffle to the top and sew down.  Again, use a 1/8″ stitch.

Prepare your backing fabric
You want your backing fabric to be 2.5″ bigger in width and length than your top piece.  I chose to piece my back so that it would have a little extra color on it.

Prepare the Mat Tie

Take one full length jelly roll strip.  Fold the ends in and press.  Fold in half with right sides together.  Sew a 1/8″ stitch along the open edge.  Turn it right side out, press,  top stitch along all sides.

Fold the tie in half and pin to the bottom edge of the mat then secure in place by stitching it down.

Layer your piece.  Start with the batting.  Then the backing fabric, face up.  Then your top laid face down.  Pin the pieces together.  Sew all three together using a 1/4″ seam allowance.

Be sure to leave at least an 8″ opening so you can turn your mat right side out.

Trim away any excess fabric and batting.

Stitch the opening closed.

Quilt the mat how you like.  I just did the top and bottom strip of the body of the mat.  I didn’t want to loose any of the bulkiness of the batting but wanted to have it secure for washings.

A super cute nap mat for your little cutie to lay on and have sweet dreams.



Kristin Hajny

Squeaky Clean: A Shower Curtain

Hi All! I’m Angela from Cut To Pieces, and I’m back again today to share with you my latest project; The Squeaky Clean Shower Curtain.

 I recently moved to a new house and found myself in need of a new shower curtain for the bathroom my daughter mainly uses. I wanted to make something that would appeal to her little senses but also be appropriate for adults and guests. I spied Lucy’s Crab Shack by Sweetwater and knew that it was meant to be! I chose the prints that were the most gender neutral to me and would work with my focal print with the large orange bicycles.

 The simplicity yet sophistication of the design allows me to have a patchwork shower curtain without it feeling too “homemade”. The shower curtain is a hit with everyone in the house and will definitely grow well with my daughter!

12 Grommets with mounting hardware
7 – 19 Fat Quarters (I used 19 but you could repeat your fabrics and use fewer prints)
4 yards of laminated cotton canvas
1/4″ wide steam a seam lite or other fabric glue
Small clips (for holding laminated canvas together)

Cut the laminate cotton canvas into (2) 65″ length pieces. Discard the extra fabric.

Then cut one of the pieces to be 42 1/2″ wide. (You are mostly taking off the selvages here)

Cut the second 65″ long piece into (2) 15 1/4″ wide pieces. Discard the extra fabric.

Sew the laminated cotton pieces rst along the length of each piece, centering the 42 1/2″ wide piece between the two 15 1/4″ wide pieces.


  Use clips to help you hold the laminated cotton together as pins will most likely bend and cause puncture holes in the fabric.


CAREFULLY press the seam allowance toward the outside, making sure not to stretch the laminated cotton or touch the iron to the laminated side of the print. Press from the back.

 Because the fabric is laminated, it will not fray, so we can leave the edges raw. Yay for less work!


 At the top of the shower curtain, fold under the edge by 3/4″. Again, CAREFULLY press this edge down using a pressing cloth to protect the fabric and your iron. A lower setting on your iron may also help prevent distortion.


  Fold the edge again, this time by 4″. Use that pressing cloth!


  Using a laminated foot on your machine (or masking tape on the bottom of your presser foot), sew the folded edge in place along the top of the shower curtain.


Across the top of the shower curtain, mark a dot on each end measuring in 1 1/2″ from both the side and the top. Then continue to mark the grommet locations for the remaining 10 grommets approximately every 6 1/4″ across, also 1 1/2″ down from the top edge.


Install the 12 grommets across the top of the shower curtain according to the manufacturer’s instructions. You may find it helpful to use the grommet to trace the location and scissors to trim out any excess fabric before installing the grommets.


Put aside the top portion of the shower curtain and pull out the fat quarters now.

Choose 1 fat quarter to be the running strip across the width of the shower curtain. (Mine is the blue polka dot print). Cut (4) strips 2 1/2″ wide and sew them together at each short end.


TIP: Some leftover Jelly Roll Strips would also work perfectly here!

 Take your remaining fat quarters (I used 18 different ones) and cut (1) 4 1/2″ x 20″ strip from each. (They are easily cut on the fold)


Sew the strips rst along the long side in a pleasing random order. Press your seam allowances open.



REALITY CHECK:At this point your newly sewn strips should be a half inch wider than your laminated cotton upper portion of the shower curtain (which is 72″). Check to see if the fat quarters are indeed a half inch wider than the laminated cotton. If they are not (It’s REALLY easy to lose some length with all of those seam allowances), then simply add on another fat quarter strip of the width you need to get your dimensions to work. This is a very forgiving pattern and no one will notice an extra strip on one end that a little different than the others. 😉

Sew your long 2 1/2″ wide strip (again, mine is the blue polka dot) across the top of the sewn strips using a 1/4″ seam allowance and trim it to match your fat quarter strip.


Fold the short edge of each side under by 1/4″ and press.


Then fold the long bottom edge under by a 1/4″ and press it as well.


Line up the top of the fat quarter strips with the bottom of the laminated fabric, right sides together. Be sure to keep the 1/4″ edges folded in.


Hold the two pieces together using the clips again. If your pieces do not align perfectly, see the Reality Check portion above. Sew the laminated cotton to the fat quarter strips along the long edge using a 1/4″ seam allowance.


 CAREFULLY press the fat quarter strips down with the seam allowance pressed in the direction of the fat quarter strips. Top stitch the seam allowance in place along the top of the fat quarter strips.


Now apply the 1/4″ steam a seam lite to the folded edge of the fat quarter strip according to the manufacturer’s instructions. We are essentially “gluing” the fabric in place on the back side because it will be too difficult to use pins for this next step.

Flip the strips around to the back, WRONG sides together, and carefully place the folded edge of the bottom fat quarter strip on top of the seam allowance between the top of the fat quarter strip and the bottom of the laminated cotton. Allow the adhesive to hold the piece in place.


Top stitch a second time FROM THE FRONT across the top of the fat quarter strips to permanently attach the fabric in place.


Lay the shower curtain flat and press the bottom fold of the shower curtain, moving your way from the top of the fat quarter strip to the bottom.


Pin your short folded sides together and stitch along each short side and across the bottom of the shower curtain.



For aesthetic reasons, you may want to stitch more places together. I chose to also top stitch along the bottom of my blue polka dot print to match the top stitching above.


You now have a shower curtain with laminated cotton on the top and cotton fabric on the bottom with all the seams nicely concealed.


Take a step back and admire your new shower curtain! (This was the only time I could get a relatively decent shot of the whole thing)


Hang it up in your bathroom and ENJOY!




1 Shower Curtain approximately 72″ x 72″ just perfect for the kids or the kid in you!


Please note: I still hang this with a clear plastic liner as the back of the shower curtain is not water proof. Also, please check the dimensions of your own tub/shower before starting to confirm that this is the desired size you need. For a shower you may easily choose to make this less wide!

If you make this pattern or any of my other patterns here on Moda Bakeshop, please add your photos to my group on Flickr, Cut to Pieces, and the Moda Bakeshop group. I’d love to see them!

Angela Pingel
{Cut to Pieces}