Garden Girl Quilt


We’re back…Yep, it’s been awhile since Kelli and I have had a quilt for you here at Moda Bake Shop. We’ve been really busy.  We sent our quilt book, scheduled to come out in early 2015, to our publisher.  Kelli’s been taking college classes and we bought an old foreclosure house that we are remodeling.  You can read all about that and see pictures on our blog, Jo’s Country Junction.  With all that going on you’d think we’d not have time to to sew anything else..NOT!!  Sewing is therapy for us and trust me, we need therapy.  Besides, who can resist a great fabric line like MoMo’s Avant Garden…not us!  Read the pattern here then stop over to our blog and we’ll fill you in on some behind the scenes info about the quilt and we have a sweet $50 gift certificate for one our readers to win.

Before we get going here are a few stats on the quilt.

Finished Block Size:  10”
Finished Quilt Size:  80” x 90”

Layout:  8 x 9

Fat Quarter Bundle of MoMo’s Avant Garden
4 yards Blue Background
4- 1/3 yard cuts of coordinating solids/dots
5 1/2″ yards backing
3/4 yard binding

**Note WOF means the width of the fabric**

Pick 24 fat quarters from the bundle.  From Each (of 24) fat quarters cut:
                -Cut 2- 7 1/2″ x 21” strips.  Subcut 1- 7 1/2″ x 21” strip into 2- 7 1/2″ squares
                -Cut the remaining 7 1/2″ x 21” strip into 1- 7 1/2″ square and 2- 3 ½” x 13.5” rectangles. 
                -Cut the 2- 3 1/2” x 13 1/2″ strips into a total of 12- 2” x 3 1/2″ rectangles.
                **From each fat quarter, you will need a total of 3- 7 1/2″ squares and 12- 2” x 3 1/2”                                  rectangles.
From Blue background fabric:
                -Cut a total of 36- 2” x WOF strips
                                -Subcut into a total of 576- 2” x 2 1/2″ rectangles.
                -Cut a total of 29- 2” x WOF strips
                                -Subcut into a total of 576- 2” squares
From Each of 4 coordinating solids/dots (cornerstones):
                -Cut 4- 2” x WOF strips
                                -Subcut each strip into a total of 72- 2” squares of each color (288- 2” squares)
From binding fabric:
                -Cut a total of 9- 2 1/2″ x WOF strips.
Sewing Instructions (for one block):
1.  Using 4- 2” squares and 4 matching 2” x 3 1/2″ rectangles, place a blue square, right sides together, on the corner of each of the colored rectangles.  Sew from corner to corner on the blue square.  

Trim seam allowance to a quarter of an inch.  Press to the blue.  Add a second square to the opposite side of the printed rectangle.  Again, sew from corner to corner of the blue square.  Trim seam allowance to a quarter of an inch and again, press to the blue. 

 Repeat for each matching colored rectangle.

2.  Attach a 2” x 2.5” rectangle to opposite sides of each flying goose created in step 1.  Press to the blue rectangles.

3.  Attach a 2” colored square (cornerstones) to opposite ends of two of the units created in step 2. 

 Attach the remaining two segments created in step 2  to the opposite sides of the main 7 1/2″ colored squares.  Press to the colored center.

4.  Attach the remaining segments (with cornerstones) to opposite sides of the block.  Press to the colored middle.

5.  Repeat to make a total of 72 blocks.
6.  Arrange in a 8 x 9 layout sewing the blocks first into rows then sewing the rows together.
7.  Quilt as desired. Check out our blog, Jo’s Country Junction, to see what we did for a quilting design.

8.  Join binding strips and bind.

Finished Quilt Size:  80” x 90”

This is such a fun fabric line…perfect for picnics and perfect for any girls room.  We couldn’t resist the fabric!!

Jo and Kelli Kramer
{ Jo’s Country Junction}

Scattered Squares Pillow

Hello All!–Corey Yoder of Little Miss Shabby here!  I always love hanging out over here on MBS and sharing a new project with you. =)  This is a quick, beginner friendly design that will add a dash of panache to your living space.  It uses just one mini charm pack and a bit of yardage–you might even already have all the supplies you will need to complete this project.  I love adding hand quilting to my projects but you could easily swap out the hand quilting for machine quilting and have this pillow on your couch in a jiffy.

(The fabrics I used are in parentheses)

-1 Mini Charm Pack (Miss Kate)
-1/4 yard background fabric (9900-98)
-1/8 yard border fabric (55091-12)
-1/2 yard pillow backing fabric (55090-17)
-1/8 yard binding fabric (55092-17)
-20″ square piece of pillow backing fabric (this will be used for the pillow top sandwich)
-20″ square piece of quilt batting

-18″ pillow form

Thread for hand quilting, if desired.  I prefer to use an 8 wt. Perle Cotton.

Cutting Instructions

From the background fabric cut:
(3) 1″ x width of fabric strips, subcut into (36) 1″ x 2 1/2″ rectangles
(3) 1″ x width of fabric strips, subcut into (36) 1″ x 3″ rectangles
(2) 1″ x width of fabric strips, subcut into (2) 1″ x 15 1/2″ strips & (2) 1″ x 16 1/2″ strips
From the border fabric cut:
(2) 1 1/2″ x wof strips, subcut into (2) 1 1/2″ x 16 1/2″ strips & (2) 1 1/2″ x 18 1/2″ strips
From the pillow backing fabric cut:
(2) 12 1/2″ x 18 1/2″ rectangles
From the binding fabric cut:
(2) 2 1/8″ x wof strips, trim selvages and sew together to create continuous binding

Piecing Instructions 

-Use a scant 1/4″ seam allowance

-You will need (36) mini charms from the charm pack.  I opted to remove several of the solid colors.
1.  Sew a 1″ x 2 1/2″ background rectangle to the side of each of the 36 mini charm squares.  Press toward the rectangle.
2.  Sew a 1″ x 3″ background rectangle to the side of the units made in Step 1.  Press toward the rectangle.
3.  Layout the squares as pictured.  Sew the squares together in horizontal rows.  Press seams in adjoining rows in opposite directions.  Sew together the rows.  Press seams in one direction.

Adding the Borders:

(Press all seams away from the center)
-Sew the 1″ x 15 1/2″ background strips to the sides of the pillow top.
-Sew the 1″ x 16 1/2″ background strips to the top and bottom of the pillow top.
-Sew the 1 1/2″ x 16 1/2″ border strips to the sides of the pillow top.
-Sew the 1 1/2″ x 18 1/2″ border strips to the top and bottom of the pillow top.
This completes your pillow top!
Layer the pillow top, 20″ batting square, and 20″ pillow backing square to create a pillow sandwich.  Quilt as desired.

Finishing the Pillow

1.  Hem (1) 18 1/2″ side of each of the 12 1/2″ x 18 1/2″ pillow backing rectangles.  To do so, fold the edge in(wrong sides together) approx. 1/4″ and press into place.  Fold in an additional 1/4″ and press.  Top stitch into place.

2.  With the pillow top facing down, place the hemmed rectangles as shown.  The finished pillow backing edges will overlap in the center of the pillow and all raw edges will be aligned.

3.  Pin the backing pieces into place.  Use a long stitch and baste 1/8″ around the perimeter of the pillow top.
4.  Sew the binding onto the pillow to complete your pillow.  The scalloped fabrics in Bonnie & Camille’s fabric lines are perfect binding fabrics.

1 beautiful 18″ x 18″ Pillow which, incidentally, is the perfect companion to my Ruby, Pearl, & Opal quilt which I shared on MBS several years ago when Bonnie & Camille’s Ruby line of fabric was released.

You can find the tutorial for this quilt here.

I hope you have enjoyed this tutorial!–I hope you’ll stop by my blog, Little Miss Shabby, for a visit!

Corey Yoder
{Little Miss Shabby}

Christmas in July Round Up

Fabric stores are teeming with beautiful and festive Moda holiday fabric. Over the years our talented Chefs have whipped up some lovely holiday projects to help you get a jump start on Christmas sewing.

Click through to view the links to the recipes.

-Oda May


Jelly Roll Race Remix Quilt

Hello, Karin Vail from Cascade Quilts back again this month with yet another Christmas in July project!

2 Jelly Rolls (or 2 jelly roll race quilt tops – or a combo of the two!)  I used 24th and Pine by Basic Grey
2/3 yard for binding (or use leftovers for a scrappy binding)
1 yard inner border (cut into 8@ 4.5”WOF strips)
1 1/2  yards outer border (cut into 8@ 6.5”WOF strips)
5 yards backing

Probably most quilters have tried this at one point or another –  a ”Jelly Roll Race” (JRR) quilt top.  It works up fast for sure – but makes a rather ho-hum quilt.  I made one myself years ago, but it was not ever destined to be made into a quilt after I finished the top and didn’t love it.
So, WHAT do you do with a JRR quilt top that you love the fabric, but don’t love the design?  Rework it by adding yet another JRR top to the mix…..
Now, there are lots of JRR quilt tutorials out there, so I am not going to go into how to make those.  What I am going to explain is how I remade these two JRR tops into a beautiful quilt with MUCH more visual interest!  These JRR tops will each measure around 50”x64” to begin with.

Yes, I made TWO identical JRR tops, but you could certainly make two different tops and use this same technique.  It is similar to a ‘bargello’ technique.  If you did this, I would alternated between strips from the two JRR tops to get a uniform look throughout.
First, take one JRR top and fold it in half so that the top strip can be sewn to the bottom strip – so you make a JRR ‘tube’.  Think of it like a *giant* trip-around-the-world block setup.  From that tube, you will cut cross-section strips.   Here the seam has been sewn to make the tube and it’s again folded in half horizontally so I can do the subcutting.
In this quilt, I cut my strips 2.5” so that I have 2” squares in my final quilt, but you can certainly change it up and cut varying widths of strips!
For the first strip, take apart one seam between blocks.
The next strip, you will take apart the next seam up from the one you took apart on the first strip, and so on.
To make it easier to keep track and keep them in the right orientation (how they came off of the original JRR top), I cut only a few strip tubes at a time and sewed them a few at a time.
Match up your seams and sew the long verticle seams.
Where the fabrics change, you will get several almost-half square triangles.  Or, you might luck out and get a perfect HST in the mix too:
You should be able to get twenty 2.5” strips from each JRR ‘tube’, so with two ‘tubes’ you would be able to get a total width of 80” if you used it all.  But, since the length of the quilt is only 64” at this point, and I didn’t want an 80×64 quilt,  I decided to stop at 64” wide and add borders to enlarge it and have a balanced quilt.  I personally prefer a square quilt since you don’t have to worry which side is ‘up’ that way 🙂  If you are using 2 identical tops, cut 20 strips from one top, and 12 from the second.  If you are using 2 different JRR tops, then cut 16 strips from each JRR ‘tube’.
Now, take your 8@ 4.5”WOF strips and sew them into pairs to create 4 longer strips.  Measure your quilt top, cut border fabric to match, and sew the border on top and bottom.  Mine measured 64.5”.  Press, measure the length you will now need for the sides and cut your remaining border strips to length, and sew on left and right sides.  Mine measured 72.5”.
For your second border, take your 8@ 6.5” strips and sew them into pairs.  Again, measure your quilt top as per the first border.  My first measurement for the top/bottom was 72.5” and second for the sides was 84.5”.

A generous 84”x84” quilt!

Karin Vail
{Cascade Quilts}

Beach Umbrella Quilt

Hello everyone! I’m Becky from Patchwork Posse. Today I am sharing the quilt pattern for a cute and beachy umbrella quilt. During the summer I find that a little bit of shade goes a long way! These umbrellas are all about giving you a place to hide away from the heat. The fun contrast in the Weeds fabric collection with red, blacks, and grays is perfect for showcasing the fun print on the umbrella. Even though there is curved piecing in this quilt, once you get the hang of it, you can quickly sew all the blocks together. The key is pinning. You will be using pins. A lot of them. If you notice one umbrella is facing the wrong way….I did this on purpose. You don’t have to do that if you don’t like. I find it fun to add something a little ‘off’ in quilts.

  • 5 to 10 fat quarters in red for the umbrellas
  • 5 to 10 fat quarters in gray for the block backgrounds
  • ½ yard fabric for spacer blocks (I used a light gray on dark gray polka dot); cut into (12) 7″ squares
  • 1½ yards of red ric rac for umbrella handles; cut into (13) 4″ pieces
  • Coordinating thread for top-stitching the ric rac
  • ¼ yard red fabric for 1st border; cut into (2) 2″ x 32″strips and (2) 2″ x 35″
  • 4 to 5 gray fat quarters for 2nd border; cut into (60) 2″ x  9″ strips
  • 1 fat quarter for cornerstones; cut into (4) 4″ squares
  • {Beach Umbrella Quilt template at the end of the Printer Friendly file}

(1) Cut out the umbrella pieces using the {templates}. Make sure you pay attention to the grain line arrow on the template. This will help keep the curves on the bias which will be a lot easier to sew. I used red for the umbrella parts and the dark gray and black for the background. Notice that section D is the bottom of the block and where you will be sewing the ric rac handle. NOTE: when cutting your fabric make sure you ADD 1/4″ to each. If you don’t, your blocks will be too small.

(2) Pin the center of piece A to the center of piece B- the will be curved in different directions.


(3) Pin the ends of the pieces together.


(4) Sew across this edge, stopping every few stitches and easing the edges together. When you get to the center, leave your needle down and adjust the rest of the piece.

(5) Using this method, continue sewing pieces C and then piece D to make your block. This is what the back of the block will look like:

Front of the block:

(6) Press the block.

(7) Repeat steps (1) through (6) to make a total of 13 umbrella blocks

(8) Pin the ric rac in place and sew down the center of it using matching thread. Tuck the ends under to make it look more finished.

(9) Taking your spacing blocks and your umbrella blocks, sew 3 rows:

(10) Taking your spacing blocks and your umbrella blocks, sew 2 rows:

(11) Sew your rows together to make the quilt center.

(12) Attach the first (red) border to the top and bottom (shorter strips). Attach the longer strips to the sides.

(13) Create the gray pieced border:

  • Sew (6) 2″ x 9″ strips together. Square up to 9″. 

  •  Cut from corner to corner twice to make 4 triangles. 

  • Sew the triangles together. Notice that the strips will be going different directions. You can choose if you want them to miter or go the same direction. The point will go past the other piece by a little bit. That is what you want to happen. In the example, I chose to keep them all going the same direction. The strips will NOT line up. Don’t go crazy trying to make that happen. 

  • Sew additional triangles together until you have 4 borders with 9 triangles in each. 

  • The ends will have a point and aren’t quite long enough. You will need to unpick one end of the row. 
  • Sew the extra triangles to the ends of the rows to get them to the correct length and to make them square on the ends. The 4 border pieces should be 35″ long each. 

(14 )Pin the border to the quilt center and sew to the top and bottom of the quilt.

(15) Sew the 4 squares to the ends of the other 2 pieced border rows and sew these rows to the sides of the quilt.

(16) Layer, baste, quilt, and bind.

Above is a close-up of the quilting I chose. Feel free to do whatever quilting pattern you would like.

Finished Quilt Block: 7″ x 7″
Finished Quilt: 42″ x 42″

For more quilt tutorials and easy sewing projects, stop by {} or follow me on {Facebook}. You can also find me on {Pinterest}. Hope you enjoy this quilt!

Becky Jorgensen

Peppermint Swirl Christmas Tree Skirt

Happy Christmas in July! I’m Heather from Heather Kojan Quilts. I’m excited to share this tutorial for a super fun Peppermint Swirl Christmas Tree Skirt! Start now and you’ll have it done way before the holiday rush. (Tip: Make this in any fabric of your choosing to create a fun table topper for any season. Or, maybe a fun and unique baby quilt or play mat. Simply applique a center circle and you’re good to go!)

So, this is truly made in July, and nary a Christmas tree to be seen. So, here you have the perfect basketball hoop skirt!

Ready to get started?

12 Fat Quarters of Basic Grey’s 25th and Pine (4 green, 4 red and 4 white)
3 yards backing fabric
1/2 yard binding fabric

Batting, 54″ x 54″

Nine Degree Wedge Ruler

I’m using the fabulous 25th and Pine from Basic Grey. I love the feel of this fabric. So luxurious.

You’ll need 12 fat quarters to make your swirl: 4 green, 4 red, 4 white. 

Take each of your fat quarters and cut into strips, 2.5″ x 22″. You should get 7 strips from each fat quarter to yield 28 strips of each color.

Next we’re going to make strip sets. Following the chart below, we’ll make 9 unique strip sets. R=Red, G=Green, W=White. Use a 1/4″ seam allowance throughout this project.

Row 1
Row 2
Row 3
Row 4
Row 5
Row 6
Row 7
Row 8
Row 9

Sew your first strip set together, using the chart above. A finished strip set should measure 22″ wide and 18.5″ top to bottom.

After you sew your first strip set, lay out the next strip set beside the first. Try to avoid having the same fabrics next to each other. Label your strip sets 1-9 as you sew them. Press the odd numbered strip sets in one direction, and the even numbered strip sets in the opposite direction. After sewing all of the strip sets, you should have one leftover strip of each color. 

Now it’s time to cut your wedges.

You need to get 5 wedges from each strip set. Place the ruler so that the 22″ mark is aligned with the top edge of your strip set. Use your seam lines on your strip set and the lines on the ruler to make sure your ruler is placed correctly and everything is lined up straight. It’s helpful if you can place your cutting mat so that you can walk around it to make the cutting easier. Cut your first wedge. Re-position ruler at the top edge, and cut your second wedge. Repeat to make 5 wedges total. Stack the wedges (I clip them with a wonder clip) and label stack #1. You’ll end up with smaller “waste” wedges as you cut. Save these for creative play later!

Continue to cut your wedges from each strip set. Label and keep in order.

Find a nice open spot of “design floor”. Lay out your wedges in a circle, starting with one, continuing through nine, then repeating with one through nine and so on. Do you see the spiral happening? Cool, right? You’ll only need 40 wedges for this project. Again, set the remaining wedges aside for creative play (mug rugs? table runner?) After you have all 40 wedges laid out, check to make sure the spiral works and that nothing got out of order. (Your ending wedge will not create a continuous spiral with the first wedge.)

Let’s sew the spiral. I like to sew 8 wedges at a time. I pair the first 2, second 2, third 2 and fourth 2 by laying the right sides together. At my sewing machine, I sew the first pair, then 2nd, 3rd and 4th, chain stitching as I go. Because we did alternate pressing, the seams should nest together nicely. I then sew the first two pairs together, then the last 2 pairs together, and finally the 2 four wedge units together. Then I take this unit and return it to the spiral. Repeat for the reaming wedges. Once I have all 5 eight wedge units sewn, I check to make sure the spiral is continuous and nothing got out of order. Then I sew all the units together, including the seam where the end meets the beginning. I mark this seam with a pin.

Pretend there’s only 4 pairs of wedges above!
Back at the sewing machine, I do a little stay stitching around the inside and outside circle to keep the stitches from “popping”, about 1/8th inch from the edge. 
Cut your backing fabric into two pieces, 54″ in length x width of fabric. Trim selvages and seam the two pieces together. You’ll have a piece of fabric 54″ x 80″ (approximately). Trim to 54″ square. 
Layer your backing, batting and skirt top. Baste as preferred.
Time to quilt! I used my walking foot and did straight line quilting on each side of the seams. I started and stopped each line of quilting where wedge one and forty meet (where I placed that pin earlier.) Be sure to do an 1/8th of an inch stitch around the inner and outer circle edges as well. 
With your scissors, trim around the outer circle. Cut right down the seam where wedge one and wedge forty meet, then continue to cut the inner circle.

Make your bias binding. You’ll need approximately 240″ of bias binding. 1/2 yard will give you more that plenty! Lay out your 1/2 yard of fabric. Use the 45° line of your ruler to lop off the bottom left and top right corners of your fabric, approximately 10″ from the point. I do this so that I don’t have super short pieces of binding fabric. Keep the 45° angle going, and cut binding strips 2.5″ wide. If you want to make the optional ties, reserve two lengths, approximately 22″ long.

To join your strips, place two pieces together, matching the right angles.
Place right sides together. The strips will be at a right angle. Be sure to off set the corner by a 1/4 inch, as shown in the picture. Sew strips together with a 1/4″ seam. Continue to join all the strips until you have enough binding. Fold binding strip in half and press. Voila! Bias binding!
Optional ties: Take one piece of the bias binding strip approximately 20-22″ long. Fold in half length wise. Press. Unfold, then press so that each long edge meets the center “line” that you just pressed. Fold each short end under 1/4″ and press. Re-fold and press entire tie. Stitch along the long edge and short folded edges, close to the open edge. Cut into 2 lengths, approximately 10″ each. Repeat with second strip.
Pin ties in place with raw edges together, approximately 4″ from inner and outer circle. These will get sewn into the tree skirt as you sew on your binding.
Bind your quilt. Congratulations ~ your first Christmas finish of the year!

One Peppermint Swirl Christmas Tree Skirt, 45″ diameter.

Heather Kojan