Jelly Roll Race Remix Quilt

Hello, Karin Vail from Cascade Quilts back again this month with yet another Christmas in July project!

2 Jelly Rolls (or 2 jelly roll race quilt tops – or a combo of the two!)  I used 24th and Pine by Basic Grey
2/3 yard for binding (or use leftovers for a scrappy binding)
1 yard inner border (cut into 8@ 4.5”WOF strips)
1 1/2  yards outer border (cut into 8@ 6.5”WOF strips)
5 yards backing

Probably most quilters have tried this at one point or another –  a ”Jelly Roll Race” (JRR) quilt top.  It works up fast for sure – but makes a rather ho-hum quilt.  I made one myself years ago, but it was not ever destined to be made into a quilt after I finished the top and didn’t love it.
So, WHAT do you do with a JRR quilt top that you love the fabric, but don’t love the design?  Rework it by adding yet another JRR top to the mix…..
Now, there are lots of JRR quilt tutorials out there, so I am not going to go into how to make those.  What I am going to explain is how I remade these two JRR tops into a beautiful quilt with MUCH more visual interest!  These JRR tops will each measure around 50”x64” to begin with.

Yes, I made TWO identical JRR tops, but you could certainly make two different tops and use this same technique.  It is similar to a ‘bargello’ technique.  If you did this, I would alternated between strips from the two JRR tops to get a uniform look throughout.
First, take one JRR top and fold it in half so that the top strip can be sewn to the bottom strip – so you make a JRR ‘tube’.  Think of it like a *giant* trip-around-the-world block setup.  From that tube, you will cut cross-section strips.   Here the seam has been sewn to make the tube and it’s again folded in half horizontally so I can do the subcutting.
In this quilt, I cut my strips 2.5” so that I have 2” squares in my final quilt, but you can certainly change it up and cut varying widths of strips!
For the first strip, take apart one seam between blocks.
The next strip, you will take apart the next seam up from the one you took apart on the first strip, and so on.
To make it easier to keep track and keep them in the right orientation (how they came off of the original JRR top), I cut only a few strip tubes at a time and sewed them a few at a time.
Match up your seams and sew the long verticle seams.
Where the fabrics change, you will get several almost-half square triangles.  Or, you might luck out and get a perfect HST in the mix too:
You should be able to get twenty 2.5” strips from each JRR ‘tube’, so with two ‘tubes’ you would be able to get a total width of 80” if you used it all.  But, since the length of the quilt is only 64” at this point, and I didn’t want an 80×64 quilt,  I decided to stop at 64” wide and add borders to enlarge it and have a balanced quilt.  I personally prefer a square quilt since you don’t have to worry which side is ‘up’ that way 🙂  If you are using 2 identical tops, cut 20 strips from one top, and 12 from the second.  If you are using 2 different JRR tops, then cut 16 strips from each JRR ‘tube’.
Now, take your 8@ 4.5”WOF strips and sew them into pairs to create 4 longer strips.  Measure your quilt top, cut border fabric to match, and sew the border on top and bottom.  Mine measured 64.5”.  Press, measure the length you will now need for the sides and cut your remaining border strips to length, and sew on left and right sides.  Mine measured 72.5”.
For your second border, take your 8@ 6.5” strips and sew them into pairs.  Again, measure your quilt top as per the first border.  My first measurement for the top/bottom was 72.5” and second for the sides was 84.5”.

A generous 84”x84” quilt!

Karin Vail
{Cascade Quilts}

Trifle Dish: Posies

To make LAYER 6, use jelly roll strips, which is particularly useful when using this block for an entire quilt top. The posies block is very precut friendly and you can substitute almost any other cut – fat eighths, fat quarters, and layer cakes. Note that there are two versions of the block, one with top sashing and one with bottom sashing, which gives the posies movement.

For EACH Posies block, you will need:
Fabric 1/White Solid:

  • (1) 2 ½” squares
  • (2) 2″ squares
  • (1) 1 ½” x 4 ½” rectangle
  • (8) 1 1/4″ squares

Fabric 2/Flower Top:

  • (2) 2″ squares
  • (4) 1 ½” x 2 ½” rectangles

Fabric 3/Flower Bottom (green print):

  • (4) 2″ x 2 1/4″ rectangles
  • (1) 1″ x 3 ½” rectangle

Block Dimensions: 4″ x 8″ (finished) / 4½” w x 8½” h (unfinished)

You will also need (12) 1 ½” x 8 ½” strips (one in between each flower) of background fabric to make the row equal 64″

Suggested precuts: Jelly rolls, fat quarters, fat eighths, layer cakes

1.  Use (2) 2″ flower top squares and (2) 2″ white solid squares  to construct 4 HST’.  Trim to 1 ½” square.  Press toward print fabric.

2.  Sew an HST onto each end of a 1 ½” x 2 ½” flower top rectangle as illustrated.  Press toward center.  Make 2.

3.  Sew a 1 ½” x 2 ½” flower top rectangle to each side of a 2 ½” white square as illustrated. Press away from center.  Sew the 2 units made in Step 2 to the top and bottom of the rectangle unit. Press toward center.

4.  Draw a diagonal line across the back of all the (8) 1 1/4″ white squares.  Use the stitch and flip method to sew (1) 1 1/4″ white square onto the lower left and upper right corners of a green 2″ x 2 1/4″ rectangle.  Make 4, taking care with directional fabric.  Press toward the white.

5.  Sew together the dog ear corner units made above. Add 1″ x 3 ½” rectangle between them as the flower stem.

6.  Sew the flower top to the flower bottom.  Press seam toward flower top.   Press toward the white.

Sew the white 1 ½” x 4 ½” rectangle to the top or bottom of the flower (you will alternate to give the flowers movement in the row). The block should measure 4 ½” x 8 ½”

Note:  To complete the strip a total of 13 flowers are needed.  7 of them should have the last white rectangle sewn to the top and 6 should have the rectangle sewn to the bottom.  I used a total of (12) 1 ½” x 8 ½” strips (one in between each flower).

1 row, measuring 64″ x 8″

Block design by Corey Yoder of {Little Miss Shabby}

Avant Garden Turning Squares Quilt

Hello!  I am Erica from Kitchen Table Quilting and I am here today with a tutorial for a quilt using MoMo’s gorgeous new fabric line Avant Garden.  I made this quilt nice and big with picnics in mind, but it is just as good for snuggling.  However you use the quilt, this is a quick way to make a big quilt using jelly rolls.

2 Jelly Rolls Avant Garden
1 Yard Mochi Unbleached Linen
4 1/4 Yard Linen Mochi Dot Boysenberry
Batting at least 76″ x 76″

You will need 72 total jelly roll strips for this project.  I chose to cut a few 2.5″ x Width of Fabric strips and mixed them in with my jelly roll strips, but the jelly rolls have more than enough strips.  Set aside the extra strips for future projects or use them to make your binding.
Take 36 of the jelly roll strips and cut them down to 2.5″ x 12.5″.  Cut the remaining 36 strips down to 2.5″ x 6.5″.  You will need a total of (108) 12.5″ strips and (216) 6.5″ strips.  It sounds like a lot but the precuts make it quick work!
For each block you will need (3) 2.5″ x 12.5″ strips and (6) 2.5″ x 6.5″

Place your strips into the following layout.

And start piecing the strips into pairs, pressing the seams open.

Add a third strip to each pair and press.

Then piece the 6.5″ squares together.

And then add the 12.5″ piece to create a 12.5″ square.  If you are using a scant quarter inch, you might need to trim your block down a little to get make it 12.5″.

Make 35 more blocks.

Place your blocks into groups of 4, turning them so that the 4 small squares in the center line up.  Piece them into pairs and press the seams open.

And then piece the pairs together.

Arrange the squares into 3 rows with 3 squares in each row.  Piece the squares together into rows and then join the rows.

Baste, quilt, and bind as desired.

Finished size: 72″ x 72″

I used the linen dot for the back of the quilt and the solid linen for the binding.  Not only does it have a wonderful texture, but it was wonderful to work with and gives the quilt a nice weight.  If you decide to use linen for the binding I would suggest cutting it slightly wider than normal (I cut mine 2 5/8″ instead of 2 1/2″).

Erica Jackman

Jelly Turnover Quilt

Hello! I’m Shannon from Modern Tradition Quilts.  It’s an honor for me to be with you today on Moda Bake Shop.  I love working with pre-cut fabrics.  When it comes to creating quilts, the possibilities are endless!  When designing this quilt, I thought it would be fun to use a jelly-roll for the sashing and candy squares for the gem-stone corners–after all, they are already pre-cut to the same width.  All that was left was to decide what type of blocks to use.  Since charm squares create half-square triangles so readily, this quilt came together like “Peanut-butter & Jelly”–hence its name, the Jelly Turnover Quilt.

To create this project you will need:
  • One packages of 5″ charm squares.  (I used Grant Park)  This quilt uses 40 print squares.
  • One packages of 5″ bella solids charm squares.  This quilt uses 40 white squares.
  • Three packages of 2 1/2″ candy squares for the gem stone corners on the sashing. (I also used Grant Park).  This quilt uses 99 squares.
  • One 2 1/2″ jelly roll for the sashing (I also used bella solid white).  This quilt uses 23 strips.
  • One yard navy blue fabric for the binding. 

    To create the half-square triangles (HSTs):

    • Draw a diagonal line on the wrong side of each white Bella solid charm square.
    • Layer one white charm square on top of one print charm square with right sides facing.
    • Sew down both sides of the drawn line.

    • Cut down the drawn line and press seams towards the darker print fabric.
    • Square all HSTs to measure exactly 4 1/2 inches. 
    Use your favorite method of choice for this.  I like using a small square ruler.  Basically, you are trimming off the factory-created pinked/serrated edges.
    • Yield: 80 HSTs.

      To create the sashing:

      • Select twenty-three 2 1/2 inch jelly roll strips.
      • Cut the 2 1/2 inch white strips from the jelly roll into 4 1/2 inch sections.  Yield: 16 sashing rectangles measuring 2 1/2 inches by 4 1/2 inches per jelly roll length.
      Quick tip:  It is easy to cut several jelly-roll strips at once by laying 5 or 6 strips on your cutting board at a time.  Then, simply make the same rotary cuts that you would doing just one strip at a time.
      • This quilt requires 178 of these rectangles.

        To sew the vertical sashing units:

        • Select five 2 1/2 inch by 4 1/2 inch strips and five 2 1/2″ candy squares.  Sew these end to end to create a vertical sashing strip.  Press all seams towards the sashing to reduce bulk.  Create 18 of these strips.

        • Sew one horizontal sashing row for the bottom of the quilt.  It is comprised of nine 2 1/2 inch candy squares and eight 2 1/2 inch by 4 1/2 inch sashing strips.

        Note: This quilt is sewn in four quadrants–one quadrant at a time to ensure the proper placement of the HST unit to make the echo effect.  Each quadrant uses 20 HSTs.

        General directions for sewing all four quadrants:

        • Take twenty HSTs and  twenty 2 1/2 inch by 4 1/2 inch rectangles.
        • Chain-sew the 2 1/2 inch by 4 1/2 inch rectangle to the top of the HST.  Check the orientation of the HST you are working on as they differ in all four quadrants.  Press all seams towards the sashing to create less bulk.

        Note, the HST rotates depending on which quadrant of the quilt you are working on.
        • Sew this units into four columns of 5 units down.  Press all seams towards the sashing to create less bulk.
        • Add four vertical sashing strips to the side of each of the four 5-unit columns.  Refer to the quadrant diagram to check if it is the right or left-hand side.  If pressed correctly, these seams should nest.  Pin-match the intersections and sew with the HSTs on top to avoid blunting the points.  Also press these seams towards the sashing.  This will enable the quilt top to lie flat.
        Sew the columns together with HSTs on top so their points do not get blunted.
        • Sew these four columns together to create one quadrant.

          The upper left-hand quadrant HST orientation is: 

          The upper right-hand quadrant HST orientation is:

          The lower left-hand quadrant HST orientation is

          The lower right-hand quadrant HST orientation is:

          Use this assembly diagram to add the four quadrant panels together.

          • First, add the top left-hand quadrant to a center vertical sashing strip, then add the right-hand upper quadrant.
          • Second, add the bottom left-hand quadrant to a center vertical sashing strip, then add the right-hand lower quadrant.
          • Third, sew the top and bottom halves together.
          • Fourth and final, add the long horizontal sashing strip to the bottom to finish your quilt top.
          Assembly Diagram

          The finished quilt top diagram:

          The finished quilt top measures 50 inches by 62 inches.

          I quilted this using a lasso edge-to-edge style.

          Shannon Mower

          Have A Heart Baby Quilt

          Hi, my name is Alison Tudor of Sew and Tell Quilts. This is a fun and quick project that could make a wonderful quilt for a baby girl or a large Valentine’s Day wall hanging.

          Moda fabric Printemps
          Designer 3 Sisters
          Materials Needed: 
          1 Jelly roll 44030JR 
          1-1/2 yards  Printemps Linen 44035-11 for background and border blocks. 
          3/8 yd Printemps Primrose 44030-13 for border. 
          1/2 yd Printemps Tonal Scarlet 44036-15 for inner border.   
          1/8 yd Printemps Scarlet 44037-15
          1/4 yd Printemps Tonal Primrose 44036-13
          3 yards backing fabric
          3/8 yd binding fabric (5 strips 2.5″)

          Cutting Directions

          Cut 251 2-1/2″ squares of Printemps Linen 44035-11 for the background and border blocks.
          Cut 24 2-1/2″ squares of Printemps Tonal Primrose for the inner corners.
          Cut 59 2-1/2″ squares of a good mix of light and dark prints from the jelly roll for the heart.
          Cut 4 2-1/2″ squares  Printemps Scarlet for the “L” 
          Cut 4 2-21/2″ squares Printemps Pond 44031 14 for the “O”
          Cut 5 2-1/2″ squares Printemps Scarlet 44037 15 for the “V”
          Cut 4 2-1/2″ squares Printemps Buttercup 44034 12 for the “E”
          Cut 4 1-1/2″ x WOF strips Printemps Tonal Scarlet 44036-15 for inner border.  
          Cut 42 2-1/2″ squares Printemps Primrose 44030-13 for outer border blocks.

          From your choice of binding fabric, cut 5 strips measuring 2½” x WOF  

          Quilt Assembly

          Working in sections, following the sectional layout diagram, sew the 2-1/2″ squares together to construct the rows. Press the seams in opposite directions for each row to help make the seams line up as you build the quilt top. Once all the sections have been completed, stitch the sections together to complete the quilt top center.

          Sections Diagram

          Making The Borders
           For the inner border, cut two 1-1-2″ strips 38″ long and two 1-1/2″ strips 40-1/2″ long. Sew these to the sides and the top and bottom of the quilt top center.  For the outer border, alternately join pink and cream colored 2-1/2″ border blocks to make a strip.  Two sides should require 20 blocks; 10 of each color measuring 40″. Two sides should require 22 blocks; 11 of each color measuring 44″.  Sew these to the sides and the top and bottom of the quilt to complete the top.

          Quilt Layout Diagram

          Finished quilt 44″ x 44″

          Alison Tudor
          {Sew and Tell Quilts}

          Beach Ball Baby Quilt

          Hi! This is Jess from The Elven Garden with my first recipe for Moda Bake Shop. I wanted to challenge myself to see if I could make a quilt using just a jelly roll (Sphere by Zen Chic), and I came up with the Beach Ball lap/baby quilt. It does use a fat quarter of background solid as well, but other than that a jelly roll is all you need!

          This quilt is made using large equilateral (60 degree) triangles, arranged so they form hexagons across the quilt top. The layout options for the hexagons are unlimited – if you would like to have a play with some other layout options, you can download and print triangular graph paper here. This quilt measures 45″ x 50″, but you could easily make it bigger by using additional jelly rolls.

          One Jelly Roll of Sphere by Zen Chic
          One Fat Quarter (or quarter yard) of Bella Snow
          1/2 Yard Binding fabric
          2 1/2 Yards backing fabric
          50″ x 55″ piece of batting

          All seam allowances throughout the tutorial are a scant quarter inch, and I have pressed my seams open at all stages.

          Begin by sorting the jelly roll into colour sets, separating the lighter value prints (in this case the grey and white based prints) from the darker ones.

          STEP 2:
          Next, split each colour into sets of three strips. Some of my strip sets included one strip with a contrast in colour or value.

          STEP 3:
          Sew each of these strip sets together along the long edge. For the strip sets with one contrasting strip, make the contrasting strip the central strip in the set, as this will form a continuous ring within the hexagons. Press your seams open.

          Each strip set should measure 6.5″ wide by width of fabric.

          STEP 4:
          Cut each of the strip sets into equilateral triangles using either a 60 degree triangle ruler:

          Or using the 60 degree line on your ruler, lining up the line on your ruler with the bottom or top of the strip set.

          Continue down the strip set, flipping the strip set or ruler as you go. You will end up with 9 triangles from each strip set.

          STEP 5:
          To avoid trimming off the sides of the quilt, and losing some of the width of the quilt, I added setting triangles at the end of each row. To make these, cut strips the same width as your strip sets (6.5″) from your fat quarter of background fabric. Make a 60 degree cut with your ruler, and then make a vertical cut, 4″ in along the long edge, and 1/4″ from the shorter side (see below). If you would prefer to give yourself more wiggle room when squaring your quilt, you can make the setting triangles a little wider (4.25″ in from the long side).

          Continue along the strip, cutting a total of 16 setting triangles. 

          STEP 6:
          At this stage, you could lay out your pieces and start piecing the rows together. I found it easier to piece together my darker coloured triangles into half-hexagons first, as it was much easier to switch them around on my design wall until I found a layout I liked. It also makes it easier to keep your triangles in the correct order as you are sewing the rows together. 

          Do not sew the light value (grey and white) prints in this way.

          When sewing these half hexagons together, match up the seams along one edge and pin at each seam (I pin the side of the seam that will be sewn first). 

          You will end up with three half-hexagons from each strip set. Do not trim off the little triangles formed at the outer corners, as these are very useful when aligning your triangles when sewing the rows together.

          STEP 7: 
          Lay out your pieces into rows according to the photo below, or as desired (here I have 8 rows of 12 triangles, plus a setting triangle at the end of each row). If you place them carefully, the light value triangles will form partial hexagons that appear to be sitting behind the coloured hexagons.

          When sewing the triangles into rows, you will need to offset the pieces slightly to account for the seam allowance and produce a straight row. It is helpful to use the little ‘tags’ of fabric produced by pressing your seams open when lining up your pieces. In the photo below, you can see these ‘tags’ on the bottom left and top right of the half-hexagons. 

          When the pieces are placed together ready to be sewn, they will cross each other at an angle like so (the seam to be sewn is at the right of the photo):

          If we look more closely at these pieces, you can see how the ‘tags’ where the seams have been pressed open allow you to line up the two pieces.

          STEP 8:
          Once your rows are sewn, sew your rows together in pairs, carefully pinning each of the points where your seams meet, so that your points will meet up. Because there are a lot of bias edge in the quilt top, it is possible to ease (or slightly stretch) some of your pieces to make the points meet.

          Continue sewing the rows together in pairs, until you have a complete quilt top. 

          STEP 9:
          Baste, quilt and bind as desired! To make your backing, cut two 15″ by width of fabric strips from one end of your backing fabric. Join these end to end to make one long 15″ wide strip. Remove the selvedges from the remaining backing fabric, and join the long strip you just made to one side of the backing fabric using a 1/2″ seam. 

          One lap quilt, 45″ x 50″

          Jess Frost

          Mister DJ Quilt

          Hello Moda Bake Shop Friends!   Melissa Corry from Happy Quilting here and I am so excited to be sharing a new quilt with you today.  My oldest son is the only person in the family that did not have a homemade bedspread.  It has been put on hold because he was insistent on have “cool” fabrics.

          Sphere by Zen Chic was the perfect fit and I set out to make an equally “cool” design.  Inspired by my son’s love for music (of all varieties and volume 🙂 Mister DJ was created and can I just say,  he loves it!!!  So do you have a tween that needs a new bedspread as well??  Well, let’s show you how to do it 🙂

          To make a twin sized 70″ x 89″ Mister DJ quilt you will need:

          2 Sphere Jelly Rolls
          2 Yards of Bella Solid Grass
          5 1/2 Yards of Backing

          STEP 1 – CUTTING

          Begin by separating your jelly roll strips into 2 piles, one of Low Volume (or light) prints and one of High Volume (or dark) prints.

          From the High Volume Strips cut 21 of each of the following strip sizes:
                2 1/2″ x 11″        2 1/2″ x 10″          2 1/2″ x 9″        2 1/2″ x 8″           2 1/2″ x 7″
                2 1/2″ x 6″          2 1/2″ x 5″            2 1/2″ x 4″        2 1/2″ x 3″           2 1/2″ x 2″
          I found the easiest way to do this is to stack up 4-5 jelly rolls and cut all the even sizes from each strip and  repeat the process for 21 strips so you have a total of 21 pieces of each even size.  Then do the same for the odd sizes.  (You will have to cut a few from the scraps as you will have 40 strips and not 42)

          From the LowVolume Strips cut 21 of each of the following strip sizes:
                2 1/2″ x 11 1/2″        2 1/2″ x 10 1/2″          2 1/2″ x 9 1/2″        2 1/2″ x 8 1/2″           2 1/2″ x 7 1/2″
                2 1/2″ x 6 1/2″          2 1/2″ x 5 1/2″            2 1/2″ x 4 1/2″        2 1/2″ x 3 1/2″           2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″
          Once again,  stack up 4-5 jelly rolls and cut all the even sizes from each strip and repeat the process for 21 strips so you have a total of 21 pieces of each even size.  Then do the same for the odd sizes.

          Now, pair each High Volume piece with the opposite size Low Volume strip.  So the 11 1/2″ goes with the 2″ and the 10 1/2″ goes with the 3″ and so on down the line.  Set these aside for the moment.

          From the Bella Solid Grass yardage cut the following:
            (9) 2 1/2″ x wof (width of fabric) strips to be used for binding
            (10) 1 1/2″ x wof strips – Trim the selvage and sew 2 strips end to end to create (5) 1 1/2″ x 84 strips.
             (210) 2″ x 2 1/2″ rectangles


          Now with the cutting done you are ready to start assembling the blocks.   Grab the first set of your grouped fabric strips  (The 11 /2″ Low Volumes and 2″ High Volumes).  You will be sewing these into a row by first sewing the Solid Grass rectangle to the Low Volume strip and then second, adding the print strip to the Solid Grass Rectangle.

          The easiest way to do this is by chain stitching.  (Meaning, not clipping your threads after each strip but continually feeding strips through the machine until you are done with your pile.)  Start by placing the Grass rectangle onto the Low Volume strip with right sides together.  Chain stitch a 1/4″ seam along the edge of all 21 of your sets.  Clip the threads between your strips.

          Now, you can add the High Volume strip.  Place the High Volume strip onto the Grass rectangle with right sides together and again chain stitch a 1/4″ seam along the edge of all 21 strips.  Clip your threads.

          Now repeat this process for each of your (10) grouped sets of 21 strips.  In the end you will have 210 pieced strips total.  You want the Low Volume print to always be on the top.   Press your strip sets.


          With your strips all set, you are ready to start sewing your blocks together.  So take all of your strip sets and mix them up in a large pile.

          Now, grab 2 random strips and place them right sides together taking care that the Low Volume print in both strips is on the top and the High Volume print is on the bottom.  Sew 1/4″ seam along the side of the strip, aligning the edges as you sew.  Chain stitch 30 of these to make 30 strip sets of 2.  Clip the threads between the 30 sets.

          Now, you are going to add a third strip to the sets of 2.  Align another randomly chosen strip along the side of the second strip with the Low Volume prints on top and sew a 1/4″ seam along the edge, aligning as you go.  If you happen to have randomly chosen a strip where the Grass Rectangle is in the same spot as the strip set, take care to match the seams.  You can just align these with your fingers as shown.   Chain stitch all 30 sets.

          Clip your threads between your sets and you are ready to add a fourth row.  Continue this process until you have added a total of 7 rows in each set.    Clip the threads between sets.

          So now you will have 30 blocks each consisting of 7 vertical rows that have the Low Volume prints on top and the High Volume prints on the bottom.

          Press the seams in the blocks to one direction.  They should now measure 14 1/2″ square.


          And now you can put your quilt top together!   Layout 6 rows of 5 blocks.  Play with the layout until it is pleasing to the eye.  Once you have layout complete mark the blocks so you remember which row is which 🙂  Now, sew the blocks into rows.  To do this, just place the second block onto the first with right sides together and sew a 1/4″ seam along the edge.  The place the third block onto the now sewn together first and second block with right sides together and sew a 1/4″ seam along the edge.  Continue in this fashion until all 5 blocks in the row are sewn together.  Repeat for all 6 rows.

          Now place a Grass Sashing Strip that you made clear at the beginning onto to the top of rows 2, 3, 4, 5, and 6 with right sides together.  Sew a 1/4″ seam along the edge aligning the fabric as you sew.

          Press all of the seams towards the sashing.  Trim the excess sashing at the end of each row.

          Now sew the rows together.  This is just like making the rows only on a larger scale.  Place row 1 onto row 2 with right sides together.  Sew a 1/4″ seam along the edge.  Press the seam towards the sashing.   Now place row 3 onto the now sewn together row 1 and 2 with right sides together.  Sew a 1/4″ seam along the edge.  Press the seam.  Continue in this fashion until all the rows are sewn together.

          And your quilt top is complete!!!  Great job!!!

          STEP 5 – FINISHING

          Now just Baste it, Quilt it, and Bind It.  I know, I make it sound so easy.  If you are new to finishing your quilt, I have created a video tutorial series that goes over the basics of each of these three steps.  You can find it at my blog 🙂   Cut your backing into 2 pieces 99″ x WOF and piece together with a 1/2″ seam.   You will use the 9 strips you cut and set aside at the beginning to do the binding.

          One ultra modern, High/Low Volume  70″ x 89″ Mister DJ twin sized quilt.  Thank you so much for joining me and I hope you enjoyed the tutorial.  If you make your own Mister DJ Quilt I would love to see it.  You can add it to my Inspired by Happy Quilting Flickr group here 🙂

          Have a Happy Quilting Day!!

          Melissa Corry

          Wishes String Quilt

          Hello again! This is Karin from Cascade Quilts, and I am happy to bring you another quick quilt project!  I have wanted to do a string quilt for years, but I just don’t care for foundation piecing – and all the tutorials I have seen to use strip quilting have not had the solid strip that goes down the *center* of the block.  They always seem to have a seam down the center instead, which gives an entirely different look to the overall quilt.  It came to me one night how to make the blocks with a strip pieced method with the solid down the center of the block (when trying to get to sleep, but can only think of current/future quilting projects!).  I am *thrilled* how this quilt top came together!  I have already started to make another one with this pattern I love it so much!   My mom even started one after she saw my completed top.  I hope you love this pattern as much as I do – and if you make a quilt from the pattern, I’d love for you to share it (or any of my other project patterns) on my flickr group 🙂

          2 print jelly rolls (I used ‘Wishes’ by Sweetwater)
          1 solid jelly roll (or 2 3/4 yards – I used Moda Bella ‘Porcelain’)
          3/4 yard matching solid cut into 2.5” strips (‘Porcelain’- not shown)
          3 yards wide backing (Bella solids in red)

          All your seams will be 1/4” or scant 1/4”.  Whichever you use, just be as consistent as possible.

          Unroll you jelly rolls and remove 1 strip from each of the print jelly rolls (you will use 39 strips from each roll for a total of 78 print strips).  Unroll your solid jelly roll – you will be using 26 strips at this point from the solid.  Pair up the 26 solid strips with 26 of your print strips.  Pair up the remaining 52 print strips into another 26 pairs.  Sew each pair together along one long side.  26 print/solid pairs and 26 print/print pairs.

          Now, pair up each print/solid pair with a print/print pair keeping the prints together and the solid along the edge.  Press these groupings with the seams all going in the same direction (direction doesn’t matter, just as long as it’s consistent through all of them).  You will have 26 strip sets now, with a solid on the outside and 3 prints.

          At this point, I suggest squaring up one end of each strip set.  Again, doesn’t matter which end, just be consistent for all of them.  *I hope I don’t confuse everyone too much with pics of different print strip sets – I seem to have missed/misplaced pics of some steps the first time around, so I started with a second quilt to capture those missed steps.  The fabrics in this second quilt is a collection from about a year ago called ”Seascapes” by Deb Strain*

          Then pair each 4-strip-set with another strip set – making sure that you don’t sew the two solid strips together.  Since the seams are all pressed in the same direction, your seams will ‘nest’ and help you align the strip sets.  Sew along one long edge and press that seam in the same direction as the others.

          You will now have 13 strip sets that are 8 strips wide.  All seams should be going in the *same* direction.  Solid, 3 prints, solid, 3 prints.

          You are going to sew these into a tube.   Sew the final seam to form the tube, then carefully press the final seam in the same direction as the other seams.

          Once you have the 8-strip tube made, you will be pressing the tube so you are pressing the solids in half.  Hopefully this picture explains what I mean.  You will be able to ‘nest’ the seams of the prints as you press so that you can be sure that you are pressing the solids directly in half.

          I’m guessing you just had an A-HA moment like I did?! 🙂

          Now, you will begin cutting your blocks!  You will get 5 blocks from each strip set ‘tube’, with a bit of leftovers.

          Starting at the left side of the strip set with a 9.5” square-up ruler align the diagonal center of the ruler along one edge (the solid that is folded in half).  Don’t do like I did in this pic – use the diagonal line on the ruler to your advantage (I did use the diagonal line in the next 12 sets, LOL).

          Cut the side on the RIGHT side of the ruler *first*.  Go ahead and cut all the way across the strip set.  Move the rest of the strip set aside far enough so you can cut the second side of the triangle without cutting the remaining strip set.

          Make the second cut along the left side of the triangle.

          Open up that triangle, and you have your first block with the solid going down the center of the block!  Yay!

          Align the ruler along the edge that faces away from you, and cut your second block.  It will only take a cut along one side for the second block.

          Now, for the third block, you will have to move again to the folded edge closest to you – but you will need to move it to the right a little, so you get the full triangle.  Again, cut as you did with the first block.

          This will give you approx 1 3/4”-2” x 9 1/2” strip ”scraps”.  But, don’t throw away those scraps, those will be used in our pieced border!

          Keep cutting all of your 13 strip set tubes until you have a total of 64 blocks (you can get 65 blocks, but you will only need 64 for this pattern).

          At this point, I highly recommend starching and re-checking square of each of your blocks.  These are all on-bias, so will have quite a bit of ‘give’ to them.

          Arrange your 64 blocks into an 8 x 8 arrangement and sew them together for the center of the quilt.  If you arrange them right, you will be able to ‘nest’ all the seams so the seams line up easily!

          Now, for the first row of the border, take 7 of your solid strips and sew them together into one long strip.  Cut this strip into two pieces 72.5” long and two pieces 77” long (recheck the measurements of YOUR quilt center to make sure these are correct for yours).  Sew the 72.5” pieces along the left and right sides, then the 77” pieces along the top and bottom sides.  Press.

          Now for the scrap pieced border!  (again, had to use pics from the second set of blocks for the second quilt I’m making for this one)
          You will need 36 pairs of these tiny blocks to make 36 ‘chevron’ blocks (9 for each side of the quilt).
          You can keep them as they are already paired up, or mix/match them as you please.  From the cut-offs that you already have, there will be 26 pairs (2 pairs from each strip set).  So, from the tail end of each strip set, you will need to cut one more pair.
          So, first measure your little ‘scrap’ pieces.  Mine were 2”x9.5”

          You will be cutting one more set from each end of the strip set tube.  Go ahead and cut it as wide as your scrap pieces are.  I cut mine 2” wide.

          These ones will have to be opened up to cut them to length, so go ahead and cut them along the fold line.

          Then, center the 9.5” ruler and cut off the ends – you are trying to make these the same as the first scraps, so make sure you center these so that the seams will line up when you pair them up with the other scrap strips.

          I recommend starching these little cuties now too.  Pair these up and sew them together into 36 cute little chevron blocks!

          If you pair them up properly, the seams will again ‘nest’ and you will be able to match up the seams easily!
          When you press these blocks, press half in one direction and half in the other direction so that when you sew them into a long strip, those middle seams will also nest.

          Sew your 36 little chevron blocks into 4 long strips with 9 blocks in each strip.  These will measure approx. 3.5”x81.5”.  Depending on your final measurements, you might need to add one more partial chevron block to all 4 strips if you intend to do a miter corner like I did, or just to two of the strips if you don’t do a mitered corner.  You should have plenty of scraps left to cut more if necessary.

          This is what the seam will look like between the blocks:

          Sew these long strips along the first solid border.  I chose to miter my corners, but you could chose the easier route and sew left and right, trimming them to fit the length, then sew top and bottom, trimming them to fit.

          Finally, sew 8 of your solid strips into pairs of 2 – and sew on for your final border.

          You have completed your beautiful approx 85” square quilt top!

          Now, baste, quilt as desired, and add binding (from your remaining 9 solid strips).

          A beautiful 85”x85” quilt!

          Ooooh, and how cool does it look with the sun shining through it from the back?!!!

           Like stained glass! 🙂

          Karin Vail
          Cascade Quilts

          Maritime Baby Quilt

          maritime baby quilt

          Hi everyone! Looking for a baby quilt that is simple and fairly quick to make?   This project is completed with a beautiful nautical and neutral line of fabric called Hearty Good Wishes by Janet Clare. I also envision this pattern in a fun black and white theme with pops of color in the secondary designs! If you decide to make this quilt, I would love to see your creation!   You can learn more about me and see some of my work on my blog at Urban Quiltworks.

          • 1 jelly roll –  Hearty Good Wishes  by Janet Clare
          • 3/4 yard Hearty Good Wishes – 1357 – Pearl
          • 1/2 yard Hearty Good Wishes – 1357 – Dark Ocean
          • 3.5 yards Hearty Good Wishes – 1352 – Sand

          Separate jelly roll into creams, light blues, dark blues, and taupes.

          From assorted cream prints cut:

          • 36 – 2.5” x 4.5” strips

          From assorted light blue strips cut:

          • 36 – 2.5″ x 2.5” squares
          • 36 – 2.5″ x 4.5″ strips
          • 18 – 2.5″ x 6.5″ strips

          Assorted dark blue strips cut:

          • 36 – 2.5″ x 2.5” squares
          • 36  – 2.5″ x 4.5” strips
          • 18 – 2.5″ x 6.5” strips

          Assorted taupe strips cut:

          • 36 – 2.5″ x 2.5″ squares

          Pearl fabric yardage  – cut 36  –  2.5” x 8.5” strips

          *All seams are to be pressed open when assembling blocks. 
          **When piecing together blocks, keep in mind that you will be making a total of 18 light blue and 18 dark blue blocks.

          Sew cream 4.5” strip to light blue 4.5” strip –  make 18
          Sew cream 4.5” strip to dark blue 4.5” strip –  make 18
          Set aside.

          Sew a  2.5” dark blue square to a 4.5” light blue strip –  make 18
          Sew a 2.5” light blue square to a  4.5” dark blue strip – make 18
          Set aside.

          Sew a 2.5” taupe square to a 2.5” light blue square –  make 18
          Sew a 2.5” taupe square to a 2.5” dark blue square –  make 18

          Sew 2.5” taupe/light blue pieced strip to 4.5” light blue/cream piece as shown.
          (make 18) Make sure taupe coloured square is positioned on the top right corner.    

          Sew 2.5” taupe/dark blue pieced strip to 4.5” dark blue/cream piece as shown (make 18).  Make sure taupe coloured square is positioned on the top right corner.

          Sew dark blue pieced 6.5” strip to dark blue block(make 18)  as shown:

          and light blue pieced 6.5” strip to light blue (make 18)  as shown:

          Complete the rectangle shape by sewing the 6.5″ light blue strip to the top of the light blue block, and the 6.5″ dark blue strip to the top of the dark blue block as shown:

          Sew one pearl 8.5” strip to the solid blue side of each block (make 18 dark blue, 18 light blue) as shown:

          Assemble and sew two light blue blocks with two dark blue blocks as shown, matching seams:

          Lay out blocks  in a 3 x 3 order:

          Sew blocks and rows together matching seams: 

          I quilted this quite heavily, although it can completed more quickly with an allover design:

          Bind with the Dark Ocean fabric using your preferred method of binding.

          This makes a beautiful baby sized quilt,  48”  x 48”

          Andrea Harris