Pink with a Splash of Orange Quilt

Hi, I am Quiltjane and I am happy to be back baking for the Bake Shop. Today I am presenting a very simple baby quilt using a combination of Bella solids, one Cape Ann charm pack and yardage of Cape Ann brushed cottons to create a subtle texture and cosy feel to the quilt.

The dictionary definition of ‘Brushed cottons’ is: “Cotton fabric that is brushed to remove all the excess lint and fibers from the fabric, leaving an ultra soft, smooth finish” The brushed cotton fabrics were beautiful to cut and sew, making the perfect combination for a cuddly quilt fit for a baby.

1 charm pack Cape Ann by Oliver + S

2 1/2 yards brushed cotton print 11186 12 B
1 1/2 yard pink striped brushed cotton print 11188 12 B
1/2 yard orange solid – Bella 9900- 162 Amelias Apricot
1 1/2 yard pink solid  – Bella 9900-145 Sisters Pink
54″ x 54″ batting

From the Charm Pack cut:
32 – 2 1/2″ x 5″ rectangles (2 per charm square ) – Piece E
32 – 1 1/2″ x 5″ rectangles ( 3 per charm square ) – Piece H
16 – 2″ x 5″ rectangles ( 2 per charm square ) – Piece K
From the pink solid cut:
11 – 1 1/2″ strips WOF. Cut these into 32 – 1/2″ x 12″ pieces – Piece F
8 – 2″ strips WOF. Cut these into 16 – 2″ x 18″ pieces – Piece B
5 strips –  2 1/4″x WOF for binding
From the pink stripe fabric cut:
13 strips WOF. Cut these into 64 – 2 1/2″ x 7 1/2″ pieces – Piece D
6 strips WOF. Cut these into 32 – 1 1/2″ x 6 1/2″ pieces – Piece H
From the brushed cotton print cut:
7 strips WOF. Cut these into 32 – 2″ x 7 1/2″ pieces – Piece I
8 strips WOF. Cut these into 16 – 2″ x 18″ pieces – Piece C
The remaining 1 1/2 yards will be used for the backing with left over pieces from the other fabrics.
From the orange solid cut:
8 – 1 1/4″ strips WOF. Cut these into 16 – 1 1/4″ x 18″ pieces – Piece A
2 – 2″ strip WOF. Cut into 16 – 2″ x 5″ pieces – Piece J
Make 8 of each

Place Pieces G and H at right angles with right side together. Draw a 45 degree line.


N.B: All seams are pressed open.
For Block A and Block B

  • Sew a 1 1/2″x 5″ charm (Piece H) to 1 1/2″ x 6 1/2″ pink stripe fabric (Piece G) using a 45 degree angle. Make 32.
Sew on line and trim back to 1/4″ 
Fold back and press open seam

  • Sew a 2 1/2″ x 7 1/2″ pink stripe fabric (piece D) to each end of 2 1/2″ x 5″ charm piece using a 45 degree angle. Make 32.
Fold back and press open seam. Repeat for other end of piece E.
Place Pieces D and E at right angles with right side together. Draw a 45 degree line.
Sew on line and trim back to 1/4″

  • Join pieces A, B and C. Fold in half and press to find centre of each piece. Make 16.
  • Fold remaining strips and use centre line as reference point to join all strips.

  • Trim block to 12 1/2″ square. Place the 45 degree line down the centre of the orange strip.

  • Layout the blocks.

  • Sew together to make rows.
  • Sew rows together.

  • Make your backing using the remaining brushed cotton fabric and left over fabrics.

  • Layer quilt top, batting and backing. Quilt as desired and bind.

Finished Quilt size: 48 1/2″ x 48 1/2″
Finished block size: 12″ x 12″
Alternative Quilt Layouts

I hope you enjoyed this project. If you make this quilt or any of my other MBS projects, I would love to see them posted on my Flickr group at Want it Need it Quilt.

Happy quilting!

Jane Shallala Davidson

Pinwheels on the Plain

Hi, I’m Kristy and I blog over at HandmadeRetro. This is my first Moda Bake Shop recipe and I couldn’t be more excited to share this little quilt I came up with.

When I was designing this quilt I was jointly inspired by the wind farms outside of Canberra in the Australian Capital Territory and the back of a wedding quilt I made for my brother and his wife which was in turn inspired by the aisle markers at their outdoor wedding.

I was so please when I came up with the technique (that may or may not be original) that I thought it deserved a quilt of it’s own. So here it is, Pinwheels on the Plain.

1x Layer Cake Modern Workshop by Oliver + S
1x Charm Pack in Bella Solids White (9900-98)
4.5 Yards Bella Solid for Background (9900-98)
5.5 yards of green spot for backing (11175 14)
3/4 yard of yellow texture for binding (11174 20)

Perle No. 8 Hand quilting thread in various colours to compliment your pinwheels
Quilting hoop
Olfa stencil cutter
Template Plastic

Sorting and Cutting Fabric
Sort the layer cake into two piles: one for the larger triangles and one for the smaller inner triangles. Because paper pinwheels created by cutting and folding scrapbooking paper inspire the quilt, I chose a small design for the smaller triangle, and a large design for the bigger triangle. I also tried to make the pairs different designs and colours.

You will need 16 layer cake sheets for the larger triangles and 8 for the smaller triangles.

From the 16 layer cake sheets for the larger triangles, cut 4×4.5″ squares.

From the 8 layer cake sheets for the smaller triangles, cut 2x 5″ squares (reserve the 10″x5″ off cut for piecing into the back)

From the background solid cut
       (5) 83″x9″ strips (I cut mine lengthways). 
       (28) 7.5″ in squares and then diagonally into 56 triangles
       4 more 7.5″ squares and crosscut into 16 quarter square triangles.

From the binding fabric cut
       (9) 2.5″ strips

Sewing the Pinwheel Blocks:

Start by sewing the solid charm squares to the 5″ print squares into HST units.

– Draw a line diagonally across the back of the solid corner to corner

– Sew .25″ either side of the line.

– Press to set seam

– Cut along the drawn line.

– Press HST units open, pressing seam to print.

– Trim to 4.5″, making sure your diagonal seam remains in the centre of your pinned unit.

You will have 8 HST units in each print.

Sew HST units with the units you just made and the 4.5″ print squares.

– Draw a line diagonally across the back of 4.5″ print square corner to corner

– Place the HST units and the print squares right sides together with the seam line and drawn  line forming an ‘X’

– Sew .25″ either side of the line.

– Press to set seam

– Cut along the drawn line.

– Press HST units open, pressing seam to larger triangle.

– Trim to 4″, making sure your diagonal seam remains in the centre of your pinned unit.

You will have 8 HST units in each print combination – four in one direction and 4 in the other.

Construct the Pinwheel Blocks:

 – Layout your 8 units in each colour combination into two pinwheel units – one will ‘turn’ in a    clockwise direction and the other counterclockwise direction.

– Sew the vertical seams and press to the larger triangle.

– Sew the horizontal seam.

Make 32 pinwheel blocks, you will have 16 unique combinations.  

Sewing the Rows:

Lay your pinwheel blocks out on your design wall or floor in four rows of 8 on point, making sure you have a good spread of colours. Have alternate rows spinning clockwise and counterclockwise.

Sew the Setting Triangles:

– Working one row at a time, sew a setting triangle to the bottom right of each block. It may overhang a little at the bottom edge, don’t worry. You won’t need to do this for the last block in each row. Press seams to the solid.

 – Working one row at a time, sew a setting triangle to the top left of each block. Again it may overhang a little, this time at the top but don’t worry. This time you won’t need to do it for the first block in the row. Press seams to the solid.

– You will end up with blocks that look a little like this.

– Sew the quarter square triangle to both sides of the end blocks left exposed.

– Trim any dog ears at the edges, ensure you leave .25″ seam allowance at the pinwheel points.

– You have a row!

– Complete 4 rows.

Sewing the Quilt Top:

Join a solid strip between each of the rows and one at the top and the bottom. Because the bias edges of the setting triangle are exposed and we cut the strips a little longer than necessary, this needs the be measured and pinned carefully. The points of the pinwheel blocks should be 10″ apart.

– Find the centre of each of your solid strips and mark, mark 10″ along in both directions until you reach the edge. Use this as a guide when pinning the solid to the pinwheel rows.

– Pin, matching the pinwheel points and the marks you made.

– Sew, press seam to the solid strip.

Cut off the excess strips at the side matching pinwheel points and leaving .25″ seam allowance.

Make the back:
Either cut your backing into two and sew together to create a single fabric backing or piece the leftover layer cake sheets into the backing.

Baste using your preferred method.

I hand quilted my Pinwheels on the Plain in No. 8 perle cotton from DMC.

I initially outline quilted the coloured pinwheel blocks about 1/8th inch in Blanc beginning in the middle and working my way to the edges, top and bottom simultaneously. 

I then made a stencil and quilted pinwheels in the empty areas between the pinwheel in the middle three solid rows. 

To make the stencil, I drew a 7.5″ square on template plastic and then the pinwheel shape in the centre. I cut along each of these lines using and Olfa double blade cutter in dashes. 

I traced this onto my quilt top using a water-soluble marker and quilted around the outside square in Blanc and the inner pinwheel triangles in two colours.

Bind using your preferred method.

I cut 2.5″ strips and machine sewed to the front and hand sewed to the back.

One 80″x80 Quilt


Flying Kimonos

The Japanese have many beautiful traditions one of which is the art of Sashiko. I found a Sashiko pattern that looked like little arrowheads and adapted it to make a quilting block. The following quilt showcases one placement of the block to make a very colourful lap quilt using Modern Workshop by Oliver + S. Liesl Gibson has painted a palette of vibrant hues and subtle designs which made it so much fun to make these Kimonos Fly.

1 x Modern Workshop Jelly Roll
2 yards of main border fabric (use length to cut borders)
1.25 yard Moda Bella Solid – Chocolate 9900 41
1.75 yard Moda Bella Solid – Moda U Brown 9900 71

The instructions are for a 9 block layout. With careful planning and cutting you can make 12 blocks from one Jelly Roll.

These blocks while they look complex, are quite simple to make. The block is constructed using a strip piecing method cut at 45 degrees. There are three main rules to follow when making these blocks.

  1. Consistency in your seams. Keep an accurate 1/4″ throughout.
  2. Do not stretch your fabric or pieces. I use spray starch to stabilise my fabrics. I only press my piecing. Do not use steam. Only press a section when complete. This will avoid over pressing.
  3. Most importantly, always cut your completed strip sets at 45 degrees using the middle seam as a point of reference. If you cut your strips accurately and consistently, they will fit together perfectly when sewing the rows together.


Each block will consist of 17 separate fabrics for the arrowheads, one orange print kimono, one brown print kimono tail, and dark brown kimono tail and sleeve.

  • Select two (2)  brown strips and two orange strips (2) from your Jelly Roll. These will be your Kimono fabrics.
  • Cut 4 x 2.5″ strips WOF from dark brown solid for Kimono tails and sleeves.
  • Select 34 different fabrics from the Modern Workshop Jelly Roll. Each strip set will yield five (5) to six (6) strips blocks. For this tutorial, we will only use nine (9) in total.
  • Cut the strips in half to yield 2 x approximately 22″ strips.
Set 1 – Five blocks

Set 2 – Four blocks
  • Make a line drawing of this block and cut a snippet of each fabric and glue or pin to drawing. This will help you organise your strip sets.
Remember to place the dark brown solid, brown, and orange prints in the positions below. These form the Kimonos.
Placement of Fabrics for the Kimono Pattern
  • Layout your strip sets in rows and sew together. Stagger your strips 2″ from top or bottom depending on the orientation of the rows. (See diagram below).
  • Press open Seams.
  • Cut the strip sets into rows 2″ wide at a 45 degree angle.

The rows must be cut at a 45 degree angle. There is a marking on most rulers. I used a 6.5″ squaring ruler to achieve my 45 degree orientation. I placed the centre line of the ruler on the middle seam and then butted another ruler up against it. Reverse this process to cut the opposite direction.

  • When you have cut all strip sets into rows, lay them as shown below. You will need to cut nine (9) left diamonds and nine (9) right diamonds to add to the ends from the dark brown fabric.
  • Sew each row together staring from the left. The intersecting seams should fit snuggly together. Pin well and slow down when you come to each seam intersection. Press open your seams when block is completed.
  • Cut block – Your finished block should be 12 1/2″. When you cut each block, make sure you place the 45 degree angle of your squaring ruler down the centre and cut each block exactly the same.
Adding the Sashing
  • Cut 1″ strips WOF from the lighter brown solid.
  • Cut six (6) strips the width of your block – 12 1/2″
  • Layout your blocks so the Kimonos all lay in the one direction.
  • Sew the sashing strips to the top of two (2)  blocks and join to make a row of three. Press seams outward.
  • Repeat to make two more rows of three (3) blocks.
  • Measure across your sets of three finished blocks. Take the average of the two measurements and cut two (2) x 1″ strips of the lighter brown solid to make the sashing to join the rows. Sew together making sure the sashing intersections all align. Press seams outward.
Adding the borders

Border 1
  • Measure across the centre of the quilt.  Using 2″ strips of the lighter brown solid,  sew to top and bottom.
  • Measure from top to bottom of quilt and add 2″ border strips to sides of quilt.
Border 2
  • Measure across the centre of the quilt. Cut 1″ strips of dark brown solid and 6 1/2″ strips of main border fabric. Sew 1″ dark brown solid strip to main border fabric. Sew to top and bottom of quilt.
  • Measure from top to bottom of quilt and sew a 1″ dark brown solid strip to main border fabric and sew left and right borders.
Binding and Quilting
  • Make sure quilt is square.
  • Cut 2 1/2″ strips of the dark brown solid and make double fold binding.
  • Sew binding to quilt.
  • Quilt as desired. I have machine quilted this project using an all over pattern.

Block size 12 1/2″
Quilt Size 54″ x 54″

One colourful lap quilt.

These are alternative block layouts, which would look fabulous in any of the beautiful fabrics designed for Moda, especially their Bella solid range.

Jane Davidson
{Quilt Jane}

Weekend with the Stars

I am so delighted to be back baking for Moda. My favourite quilting block is the eight pointed star and I just had to use Oliver + S City weekend to make it shine.

I thought it would be wonderful to make this quilt using only applique in order to give the block a mosaic effect and the illusion that there is sashing between each diamond.

The beauty of this pattern is that the diamonds can be placed in different layouts as long as the design is kept within the boundary of each star point.

1 x City Weekend Jelly Roll by Oliver + S
1 1/4 yards Robins Egg Bella Solid 9900-85
1 1/2 yards White Bella Solid
Fusible Webbing
Ruler with 45 degree marked angle.
Template Plastic


Step 1 – Colour Selection.
Divide strips into 6 colourways – Orange / Yellow / Jacaranda Blue / Pink / Pale Yellow / and Pale Green. The turquoise will be used for the binding.

Jacaranda Blue x 8
Orange x 4
Pale Green x 3

Pale Yellow x 4
Pink x 6
Yellow x 6

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Step 2 – Cutting diamonds.

  • Cut 16” Strips from the 4 Orange strips.
  • Cut 2 1/4″ matching strip of fusible webbing. Iron to back of strips.
  • Trim strips to 2″ width.
  • Cut 16 x 2″ diamonds.

  • Cut 2 x 16” + 4 x 9” strips from the 6 Yellow strips.
  • Cut 2 1/4″ matching strip of fusible webbing. Iron to back of strips.
  • Trim strips to 2″ width.
  • Cut 16 x 2″ diamonds.

  • Cut 22” strips from the 5 Pink strips.
  • Cut 2 1/4″ matching strip of fusible webbing. Iron to back of strips.
  • Trim strips to 2″ width.
  • Cut 24 x 2″ diamonds.
Jacaranda Blue
  • Cut 16” strips from the 8 Jacaranda Blue strips.
  • Cut 2 1/4″ matching strip of fusible webbing. Iron to back of strips.
  • Trim strips to 2″ width.
  • Cut 32 x 2″ diamonds.

Pale Yellow

  • Cut 24″ strips from the 4 Pale Yellow strips.
  • Cut 2 1/4″ matching strip of fusible webbing. Iron to back of strips.
  • Trim strips to 2″ width.
  • Cut 24 x 2″ diamonds

Pale Green
  • Cut 24″ strips from the 3 Pale Green strips.
  • Cut 2 1/4″ matching strip of fusible webbing. Iron to back of strips.
  • Trim strips to 2″ width.
  • Cut 16 x 2″ Diamonds

Trim to 2″ width after fusible webbing has been ironed on.
Cut 2″ diamonds. I used the Jan Krentz Fast 2 Cut ruler
Diamonds ready to go

Place same colour diamonds into separate plastic bags.

Step 3 – Background.

  • Cut 1 x 42″ square from Robins Egg solid.
  • Cut 4 x 5 1/2″ white strips for borders the length of the fabric (1 1/2 yards long ).
  • Measure across the middle of the quilt and add side borders. Then, measure across quilt again and add top and bottom borders.
  • Make sure quilt is square and then fold into 1/4’s. Press. Then, fold on the diagonal. Press. This will give you lines to lay the template on for placement of each star point.

Step 4 –  Make the star point template.

There are 8 points in the star. To make one point take a piece of template plastic (you might need to join two together) and cut out a 45 degree diamond with the following dimensions:

Across the width= 24″, Through the centre 10″ and each side 13″ long.

The picture below shows a paper version of the plastic template.

Each section is a 2 1/4″ 45 degree diamond. A 2″ diamond fits in each section with a 1/8″ border.

 Step 5 – Position the diamonds.

  • After you have pressed guidelines onto the quilt, lay the plastic template with one tip exactly in the centre of the quilt and the other tip lined up with the one of the pressed markings. Trace around the template with something that will wash out.
  • Draw the other 7 points in exactly the same way until you have a completed star.
  • Peel the paper of the fusible webbing and place the diamonds evenly within each point outline. Don’t forget to leave a space of 1/8″ border around each diamond including the outside. (Hint – position four star tips so they overlap the background and border).

Example of the spacing around each diamond

For each point starting from the inside:

  • 1 x Orange diamond
  • 2 x Pale Green diamonds
  • 3 x Pale Yellow diamonds
  • 4 x Jacaranda Blue diamonds
  • 3 x Pink Diamonds
  • 2 x Yellow Diamonds
  • 1 x Orange Diamond

Once you are happy with their placement, press the diamonds to the background and continue with the opposite point. (Hint – Just to make sure that you have accurately placed all the diamonds, layout the whole design before pressing).

    Step 6 – Applique the diamonds.

    • Applique each diamond.

    I chose to machine applique all the diamonds using a matching fine thread and straight stitch.

    Step 7 – Quilt and Bind your masterpiece.

    • Baste your quilt and quilt as desired. I suggest not over-quilting, as the star design should be the feature.
    • Use the remaining turquoise strips and some left over robins egg solid to make the binding. Cut the strips into 22″ pieces and join to make a scrappy finish.
    • The left over strips from the project can be added to the backing or to another project.

    One Razzle Dazzle quilt just made for a weekend in the city.

    Quilt Size : 51″ x 51″

    Here is another one I made using Kate Spains 12 Days of Christmas. The beauty of this design is that you can space the diamonds any way you want to as long as it remains within the boundary of each point.

    Jane Davidson

    City Stops Quilt

    Hello!  I’m Jennifer Jenkinson of That Girl… That Quilt and I’m here to share my very first Moda Bake Shop project today.  I’m so excited to be able to show my City Stops quilt made with the fabulous City Weekend fabric line and show you how to make one of your very own!

    4 City Weekend charm packs {you will have some left over… perfect for adding to the back}
    1 cardboard piece from the back of a charm pack
    2 yards for borders
    3 yards for backing
    Binding will come from your leftover border or backing fabric
    Take your charm squares and cut them exactly in half.  You can speed this process up by cutting several at once; I could get my rotary blade through 6 at one time without distorting the fabric.
    Once you have cut all your charms, take your cardboard piece from one of the charm packs.  This will be your template for cutting your half hexagons.  How easy is that?!
    Cut your cardboard square in half.  With a ruler, measure a 60 degree angle as shown, mark, and cut the edges on both ends of the template.  Now you are ready to cut your half hexagons!
    Take a few of your charm square pieces and lay your template on top.  Using a rotary cutter, cut very carefully on both sides.  If you have a hard time not cutting the template, you can simply lay a ruler on top of the template and fabric. Then cut along the ruler.  Cut all of your charm pieces into half hexagons.
    Piecing your half hexagons is very simple but you do need to be precise and organized.  Your rows run will alternate directions, so I suggest stitching two pieces together for each direction {A & B} so you have a visual reminder.
    When stitching your pairs, you will need to offset your pieces slightly as shown in the picture.
    For your first row, get 20 half hexagons and sew them into 10 pairs. 
    You can chain piece the pairs to make the process much faster.  Once you have your pairs stitched together, stitch the pairs into one long row.  
    *Make sure you alternate the direction you are piecing your hexagons together!*  
    Repeat this process to make 14 vertical rows of half hexagons.  Lay out and arrange your rows how you like. 
    Now take 7 matching pairs of half hexagons and stitch them to the each of the ends of your vertical rows to give the illusion of whole hexagons at the bottom of your quilt.
    Once you have your rows completed, sew your vertical rows together as pictured.  Pay close attention to your seams matching up and you will have a nice and scrappy hexagon look.  Press your rows as you go, until the center of your quilt top is complete.
    For the two borders, cut two strips that measure 8″ x 62″.  As shown in the picture, sew your first border to one side of your quilt and press open.  Sew your second border to the opposite side and press open as well.   Now it’s time to grab your ruler!

    *If you do not want to do a bias binding and would rather square your quilt, skip this next step and instead square your quilt by cutting a straight line across the top and bottom of the quilt top.*
    To keep with the angles of the hexagons, measure the angle {it should be approximately 60 degrees}.
    Lining up with the last angle, draw a line to the edge of your border.
    With your rotary cutter and ruler, cut along the line to mirror the pattern of the hexagons.  Repeat this step on all 4 sides. 
    Once you have the angles cut, use your ruler and trim the excess border fabric to the same length as the tips of your hexagons.
    Press your quilt top well, baste, and quilt using your favorite method.  I quilted the hexagons following the outline of the shapes and then I free motion quilted the borders with a random flower design.
    If you need a tutorial for binding hexagons, here is one that I wrote a few months ago…
    One very unique 48″ x 60″ quilt
    Thanks for following along with me today!  I hope you will stop by my blog sometime to chat…

    Jennifer Jenkinson
    {That Girl… That Quilt}