Windy Days Quilt

Hi! I’m Sarah of SarahB Designs and I’m so happy to bring you another fun Moda precut recipe! The classic pinwheel pattern is one of my favorites and my Windy Days Quilt is a fun twist on the classic! Small and large pinwheels spin around the entire quilt top in a tilted but symmetrical design!

Precut Fabric
1 charm pack of the fabric line of your choice, I’m using Just Wing It! by MoMo
2 Bella Solids charm packs in a coordinating color, I’m using White
Additional Fabric and Supplies
1¼ yards coordinating print for backing (or 1½ yards if adding border)
½ yard for coordinating print for binding
Rotary cutter, ruler and cutting mat
Fabric pencil or similar temporary fabric marker

I didn’t add a border, but if you would like to add a border to the quilt, you’ll need an extra 1/2 yard of coordinating fabric.

If you have a design wall, you’ll get to put it to use in this step! Before sewing, you need to choose if you want a scrappy look for the larger pinwheels or if you prefer each of the 4 triangles to be made of the same fabric. Not all fabric line charm packs will contain duplicate squares, but Just Wing It! has several, so that’s another design option you can consider. I prefer a scrappier look, so I chose a different charm square for each triangle of the large pinwheel.

Choosing fabric placement

The Just Wing It! charm pack includes duplicates of several of the narrow stripe prints, so you can choose do the large pinwheels all in the same print, or you can mix the narrow stripes in and make the pinwheels scrappy. Play with the design and see which look you prefer. I was placing all my pieces on the floor and you can see I stacked a white charm square under each print so I would have it handy when I picked everything up to sew. If you are using a design wall, you can simply pick up the background squares in the next step. (I had 6 printed charm squares and 3 solid charm squares left over.)

Once you are satisfied with the arrangement and have snapped a photo of it (to remember where the fabrics are placed), make and label the following 3 stacks:

• large pinwheels – 1/2 square triangles (there are 16 solid-print pairs for the scrappy look I show)
• small pinwheels – 1/4 square triangles (there are 20 solid-print pairs)
• background squares (there are 45)

Large Pinwheels

You will either have 8 (single-print pinwheel) or 16 (scrappy look) ½ square triangle units.

If your cutting mat has a diagonal line in addition to the grid, place 1 unit with the diagonal line running from one corner to the opposite corner. Place your ruler approximately 1/16” from the diagonal line (or where the diagonal line would be if one isn’t printed). This will allow room for your pencil or marker and allow you to mark an accurate line. I found it easier to mark from the center to the corner, then again from the center to the opposite corner to avoid stretching the fabric on the bias.

Repeat this marking process on 1 layer of all your ½ square triangle sets.

Your solid charm squares don’t have a right or wrong side, so with the right side of your printed charm square facing a solid, sew 1/4” on one side of your marked line, chain piecing as shown below.

Leaving your pieces attached, sew 1/4″ on the opposite side of your marked line of all the 1/2 square triangle sets. Take care not to stretch the fabric, as you are sewing on the bias.

Clip the threads between all the sets, then set the seams by pressing flat. With your ruler, rotary cut on your marked line. Press each triangle set open. Repeat.

Square up the 1/2 square triangle units to 4 ½”, taking care to keep the diagonal seam running corner to corner. To “square up” a block, trim just enough from two adjacent sides to make a perfect right angle, then turn the block to the opposite two adjacent sides where you will make sure the block measures 4 ½” and all corners are right angles.

Don’t create the large pinwheels yet! The quilt top construction will be a lot easier if these triangle blocks are left separate.

Small Pinwheels

This is a quick and easy trick! It might not follow the “old school” quilt rules, but it works, and it’s a handy way to make the most of your charm squares!

With the right side of your printed charm square to the inside, facing a solid, sew along all 4 sides of the square with a ¼” seam as shown below.

If you prefer to chain piece, as I do, use this method instead. With the right side of your printed charm square facing a solid, sew along one side of the square with a ¼” seam. Continue to sew one side of all the ¼ square triangle units, chain piecing. Without clipping threads between the pieces, sew along the opposite side of all the pieces, again chain piecing with a ¼” seam.

Now clip the threads between the squares and sew along another side of each, chain piecing. When you are done, sew along the other sides, again chain piecing.

Now it’s time to cut! Align your ¼ square unit on your cutting mat just as you did with the ½ square unit. I don’t mark my lines here, but if you are more comfortable cutting on a marked line, go ahead and draw it before cutting. 🙂 You will make two diagonal cuts to create 4 triangle units, as shown below.

Set your seam by pressing the triangle units before opening, then open and press flat. Square up each unit to 2 ½”, taking care to keep the diagonal seam running corner to corner.

Create the pinwheels by placing the small triangle units all in the same manner. Each pinwheel should have the same background/print arrangement. Chain piece unit pairs, clip each pinwheel set and press toward the print.

Next, sew the matching pairs together to complete the small pinwheel block.

Press the small pinwheel units open. If you unsew 1 or 2 stitches on the back of the block you will be able to press the block nice and flat, getting a mini-pinwheel in the back.

Trimming Background Blocks

Trim the solid charm blocks you’ve set aside to 4 ½” square. You can trim ½” from 2 adjacent sides or remove all the pinked edges, whichever you prefer.

Arranging the Blocks

Using the photo you took before you started sewing as a placement guide, arrange your small pinwheel blocks, the large pinwheel triangle units and the trimmed background blocks on your design wall or and large flat surface.

Chain piece each vertical column set and don’t clip the threads between blocks as shown below. The threads will act help keep all the blocks in the order you’ve placed them in as the top is pieced together.  

For the 1st column of blocks, press seams down. For the 2nd, press seams upward. Continue sewing pairs of block columns together and alternating the you direction you press so seams will lock together nicely in the next steps.

Once the 4 column pairs sets are stitched, sew the edge column (set 5 in the photo) to the adjacent set and stitch all the sets together in the same manner. Pin adjacent columns together to ensure seams match up. The bias edges on the small pinwheels will stretch a bit, so that can help you match the corners.

The final step to finish the quilt top is sewing all the horizontal seams. All the blocks are already attached, so just use pins where necessary to ensure nicely matched seams. Sew the rows together and your quilt top is done!

If you want to add a border, cut the coordinating fabric you’ve chosen into four 3½” strips, removing the selvages. Add to your quilt top.

Quilt Back

This quilt top is small enough that you can certainly use a single length of fabric as the backing (if you aren’t using a longarm machine to quilt it). However, I love the look of a pieced back, and we have a nice stack of leftover ½ square triangle units just begging to be used!

To ensure your backing is large enough for longarm quilting or to accommodate the optional border, use the remaining solid charm squares and your choice of leftover printed charms. Sew a few additional ½ square triangles, and trim those down to 4½”. (I used a few of the printed charms that were almost white as solids, and placed them at either end since I wanted to make sure my back was large enough for the longarm quilter to work with. I was able to trim those scrap/filler pieces off after quilting.)

For my back, I chose to split the backing fabric vertically down the center and use the large ½ square triangle units to form a zigzag pattern. If you didn’t trim all the leftover ½ square triangles to 4½” earlier, do so now, just as in the quilt top step.

Arrange the ½ square triangle units in a pleasing pattern and chain piece by sewing down the vertical line. Press the center seam alternately to the left and right. Then sew each pair set together, taking care to match the seams. (The pressed seams will help lock the points in place.)

Center one piece of the backing fabric on the pieced zigzag strip and sew it on with a ¼” seam. Attach the other piece of the backing fabric on the pieced strip, taking care to align it with the first. (It’s fine if the pieced inset isn’t the same length; after quilting it will be trimmed down.)

I centered my zigzag pieced strip, but an off-center pieced strip would make for a really interesting quilt backing too!

Finishing the quilt

Layer your quilt top, batting and quilt back. Quilt as desired. I chose to send mine to be professional longarm quilter, Paula Stout of Porch Quilts. She quilted it with “angel wings” that matched the butterflies you can see in the Just Wing It! print I chose for the backing. I am so pleased with the result!

You can use straight-of-grain binding to finish the quilt, but since I chose a stripe I decided to make the most of it and cut it on the bias.

I truly love the back of this quilt as much as the front!

One 36-1/2″ square quilt, perfect for a baby quilt or child’s lap quilt. (If border is added, quilt will be larger.)

Sarah Meyer
{SarahB Designs}

Log Cabin Baby Blocks

Hi! I’m Sarah and I’m so excited to bring you my second Moda Bake Shop recipe! This is a fun quilting project where you don’t just make a flat quilt block, you really make a block! You can create precious blocks for baby with the soft and sweet Lily & Will line by Bunny Hill make a super-sized pincushion with a bright and modern print.

Log cabin blocks are simple and fun! They are a great way to ease into quilting because the blocks are very forgiving. No worrying about points matching up and if your seam allowance isn’t perfect, no one will even notice! If you are an experienced quilter, the log cabin block is simple and quick, and makes an adorable gift!

1 or 2 Charm Packs, I used Bunny Hill Designs’ Lily & Will
(6) 4-1/2″ squares of muslin or scrap fabric (fabric is not visible when project is complete)
(6) 4-1/2″ squares of your choice of batting, I use Warm & Natural
polyester stuffing
coordinating thread
rotary cutter
cutting mat

1. Decide which fabrics you’d like to use for your block. Using 2 charm packs, I made 3 blocks: 1 pink, 1 green and 1 blue. Sort your charms into color families to make choosing prints easier.

2. Choose the fabrics for your log cabin blocks! You can make a mock-up arrangement with your charm squares as shown below. Typically a log cabin block has two adjacent sides in one color and the other two sides in a second color, but you can choose whatever arrangement you’d like! I choose creams and browns for two sides and pink/blue/green for the other two sides.

3. When you are happy with the arrangement, cut your center piece into a 1-1/2” square. Each “log” will be made from 1” strips cut from the charm squares. You won’t use up all the fabric, so I cut just as many strips as I needed. (If there’s a fun print you want to highlight, feel free to fussy cut and even omit one set of strips and cut your center square 2-1/2”. I fussy cut the bunny out of the larger-scale print for a center and also fussy cut “logs” from the border print.)

4. To create the log cabin block, you simply sew one strip on a time, going around the center square and building upon each previous strip. See the numbered diagram below. Use a 1/4” seam. Build your block one “log” at a time. You can use your fingers to gently press the seams open before adding each strip or press open with your iron. Trim excess at least once each time around the center square. You can use a single strip for two of the shorter “logs.” Depending on how accurate your 1/4″ seam is, the logs will all finish to 1/2″ wide.

6. Repeat steps 2 – 5 for each block, until you have six blocks that measure 4 1/2” square.

7. Cut (6) 4 1/2” squares of batting and (6) 4 1/2” squares of muslin or scrap fabric.

8. Make a quilt sandwich with muslin on the bottom, batting in the middle and your finished log cabin block on top. Quilt as desired. I like a to sew a square spiral starting in the center, but a diagonal grid or stippling would also work well! The purpose of the quilting is to make the sides of your completed block sturdier. But is decorative as well. Be sure to pull the ends of your threads to the backing by pulling the bobbin thread. Then tie the ends so your quilting won’t come undone, especially if this will be a toy. I used a bright thread so you could see the quilting pattern, but you’ll want to use a coordinating neutral just in case the bobbin thread pulls up to the top.

9. Arrange your six blocks into two rows of three. Sew together at side seams using a 1/4” seam allowance, right (pieced) sides together, so raw edges will be hidden.

10. This is where your flat miniature quilts turn into a three dimensional project! Keeping the pieced sides toward the inside, fold the block rows into a “C” shape.

Using a single seam, sew the two block rows together as shown below, again with a 1/4″ seam allowance.  If you stitch just about 3/4″ in from the corners on either side of the opening the turned and finished block will have cleaner points.

This may be a little awkward, but just remember to pivot 1/4″ from the corners with the needle in the down position. Before sewing each side, align the layer edges. It’s also helpful to reinforce your stitching at the corners so the stitches don’t come loose as you turn it right side out. You’ll find it’s easier than it looks!


11. Turn your cube inside out and stuff with polyester fiberfill.You can make a very soft or firm block.

12. Hand stitch the opening closed using a slipstitch or ladderstitch.

You’re all done!

1 Charm Pack has more than enough fabric to complete a single block. With 2 Charm Packs I made 3 coordinating blocks with fabric scraps to spare. Give a single block or a set as a special baby shower gift or 1st birthday gift!

Make a few plain (1 fabric per side) blocks with leftover charm squares to go along with Log Cabin Baby Blocks to quickly create a gift!

Sarah Meyer

Strip-pieced Pleated Skirt

Hi! I’m Sarah and I’m so excited to share my very first Moda Bake Shop recipe! You can find some of my other sewing projects on my blog,

This fun strip-pieced child’s skirt features a drop waist and box pleats and is created using strips from a single jelly roll! Add an appliqued t-shirt for a complete coordinated outfit!

1 Jelly Roll, Basic Grey’s Origins
3/4″ wide no-roll elastic for the waistband (measure to fit)
18″ – 24″ of 5/8″ or 3/4″ wide coordinating ribbon
Sewing Machine
Coordinating thread

Rotary Cutter
Seam ripper
Coordinating t-shirt
Paper-backed fusible web
Embroidery floss or machine embroidery thread


For best results, use the child’s waist, hip and waist-to-knee (or wherever you’d like the skirt hem to reach) measurements. If those measurements aren’t available, use the chart below to estimate.

Size/Age 2 3 4 5 6 7 8
Waist 20-1/2″ 21″ 21-1/2″ 22″ 22-1/2″ 23″ 23-1/2″
Hip 22″ 23″ 24″ 25″ 26″ 27″ 28″
Waist to Knee 9-1/4″ 10-1/2″ 11-3/4″ 13″ 14″ 15″ 16″
Strip Length 9″ 10-1/4″ 11-1/2″ 12-3/4″ 13-3/4″ 14-13/4″ 15-3/4″

For a custom-fit skirt, look at the hip measurement in inches. You will need an even number of skirt strips, so for comfort and a bit of room to grow always round up to the next even number. (For example, a hip measurement of 24 -1/2″ would round up to 26, so 26 strips are needed for the best-fitting skirt.)

Fabric Selection and placement:

This step is where your creativity can really shine! I’ll give guidelines to create a skirt similar to the finished one I’m sharing, but be sure to check out the “More Customization” section for additional options!

1. Determine how long the skirt strips need to be, either using the chart above or based on the hip to knee measurement. The skirt strips will be cut just 1/4″ less than the hip to knee measurement. My daughter’s measurement was 13″ so the strips for her skirt need to be 12-3/4″ long.

The number of strips you need depends on the hip measurement:

Hip Measurement
Number of Jelly Roll
strips needed
How to create full skirt panel
Less than 22” 
(size 2)
4 panels of 6 strips, remove 2 after cutting
22” to less than 24”
(size 3-4)
3 panels of 8 strips
24” to less than 26”
(size 5-6)
3 panels of 8 strips, add 2 after cutting
26” to less than 28”
(size 7-8)
2 panels of 14 strips

3. Select 2 Jelly Roll strips: 1 to use for the elastic casing and another for the drop waist. Set those strips aside for now.

3. Place the skirt panel strips out on a table or floor to help determine the arrangement you’d like. I really like the look of alternating the color of strips so that the strips that form the outer portion of the pleat are a similar color and the inner pleats are all another similar color or an alternating color pattern as shown in the photos below. As you can see, one Jelly Roll can give completely different looks!


1. Sew all strips (except the drop waist and casing strips) together with a 1/4″ seam along the long edges in the order of your choice. Trim down to size and sew strip panels together if needed. Press seams toward the outer pleat and topstitch on the outer pleat 1/8″ from seam for a cleaner finish.

2. With a rotary cutter or scissors, trim off the selvage and cut the large skirt panel down to size. Cut each panel to the strip length given in the Measurements chart, or for a custom skirt, 1/4″ less than the hip to knee distance.

(Set aside any remaining fabric– you may want to use it for a coordinating shirt applique!) If you need a few additional strips to make your skirt wide enough, cut those Jelly Roll strips to size now. If you need to remove any strips, use your handy seam ripper to remove strips from a single panel.

3. Attach any additional strips you may need and sew unfinished sides of each strip panel, right sides together, with 1/4″ seam, creating a tube of strips. Press seam toward outer pleat and topstitch 1/8″ from seam as before.

4. To create the box pleats, first fold the inner pleat fabric in half width-wise and finger press a mark. (Fold and rub your fingers together along the folded edge to create a crease.)

Fold the adjacent strips at the seam and bring together at the center crease of the inner strip.

Pin vertically near the seams, at least 2 pins per pleat. Repeat for each strip.

5. Stay-stitch the skirt 1/4″ to 3/8″ from the top edge to secure pleats.

6. Lay the strip-pieced skirt panel flat and measure along the top pleated edge. If your seams were an accurate 1/4″, the side-to-side measurement, multiplied by 2 should equal the number of strips you used. If not, that’s ok! We measure here to make sure the drop-waist piece will fit properly. (My skirt was just a tiny bit wider than expected, as you can see.) Make a note of this measurement!

7. Double the stitched skirt width measurement and add 1/2″ for seam allowances. Cut 2 Jelly Roll strips to that length. One will be for the drop waist and another will form the casing.

My folded skirt measured 13-1/8″ so 13-1/8″ x 2 = 26-1/4″. Add in seam allowances (26-1/4″ + 1/2″ = 26-3/4″) so the drop waist and casing strips for my daughter’s skirt needed to be cut 26-3/4″.

8. Take the drop-waist piece, place right sides together and stitch short edges together with a 1/4″ seam. Finish seam as desired. (I’ve made the thread look dark here for contrast, you will want use coordinating thread. I pressed the seam allowance to one side and used a line of topstitching 1/8″ from the seam to secure the raw edge and prevent fraying.)

9. Turn the drop waist piece wrong-side-out and place over strip-pieced skirt. Align at the pleated and basted edge, pin in place, and stitch together with a 1/2″ seam allowance. Serge, zigzag or overcast the raw edge to eliminate fraying. Press seam towards the drop waist and topstitch 1/4″ from seam on the drop waist piece.

10. To form the casing, take the final strip, turn both short edges to the wrong side by 1/4″. (I used a different fabric to demonstrate here so right and wrong sides would be better visible.)

Stitch 1/8″ from edge to create clean finished opening to insert the elastic later.

Fold the casing strip in half, wrong sides together, and press if desired. With the beginning/end of the casing placed where you’ve decided the bow should be and the casing strip on the right side of the drop waist piece, align the raw edges and pin the full length of the strip. Stitch with a 3/8″ seam allowance.

Finish the raw edge (I used an overcast stitch), press seam to drop waist and topstitch 1/4″ from seam just as in the previous step. (Photo shows finished seam before topstitching to secure the finished seam allowance.)

11. Fold the lower edge of the skirt up toward the wrong side 1/4″, then again another 1/2″. Press and topstitch to finish the skirt’s hem.

12. Using a safety pin or your preferred method, insert a piece of elastic cut to the waist measurement through the casing. The 3/4″ elastic will be a close fit, but you should be able to thread it though the casing. If not, switch to narrower elastic.

Overlap by 1″ and stitch elastic ends together, then work the elastic seam into the casing to hide it.

13. The final step to finish the skirt is adding a bow! Insert ribbon under elastic at the casing opening. Knot in place to hide the elastic and tie a bow. I put clear nail polish on the ribbon ends to prevent fraying and remove the ribbon to launder the skirt.

The skirt can be worn with the bow in front or in the back.  To create a fuller skirt, press the pleats just at the top, but leave the lower portion of the skirt uncreased.

More Customization Options:
There are so many ways to make the Strip-pieced Pleated Skirt completely yours! Here are just a few ideas!

  • Instead of repeating fabrics throughout the skirt, try using a different Jelly Roll strip for each skirt strip!
  • Use a Bella Basics Jelly Roll to make the outer and/or inner pleats solid, for a less scrappy look.
  • Use narrower or wider panels! Instead of following the guidelines above, try one of these combinations!
Hip Measurement
Number of Jelly Roll
strips needed
How to create full skirt panel
Less than 22” 
(size 2)
3 panels of 8 strips, remove 2 after cutting
22” to less than 24”
(size 3-4)
or 12
(short skirts only, size 3)  4 panels of 6 strips
or 2 panels of 12 strips
24” to less than 26”
(size 5-6)
2 panels of 12 strips, add 2 after cutting

Optional appliqued t-shirt:

To create a complete outfit, select a coordinating t-shirt and cut shapes out of the remaining Jelly Roll fabric and/or stitched-together strips! Use paper-backed fusible web to create an applique and fuse onto shirt. Finish raw edges by hand with embroidery floss or on your machine with a zigzag, satin or decorative stitch. You can see more info about how to create this shirt at

One Jelly Roll can make several skirts. Make additional coordinating skirts for sisters, cousins or friends! Just repeat the instructions above with left over strip panels, remaining Jelly Roll strips and extra elastic and ribbon.