Life Cycles Quilt

this quilt is for my niece aliyah… who was born less than a week ago!
my mom often refers to big events as “life cycle” moments
& since making quilts for big moments like this is a favorite thing of mine… i knew i wanted to make a new quilt as soon as i found out that i had a niece on the way!
this quilt would be great for births… weddings… anniversaries… or even holidays like mother’s day!
come check out my blog to see the original quilt i made for my nephew that inspired this quilt!

1 Jelly Roll Basics in Milk
1 Make Life Honey Bun
1/4 yd Bias Cut Binding – Make Life Fun – Ocean 5425 23
Scrap or FQ – { I used  Earth Texture SKU# 5427-15 }
Scrap or FQ –  { I used Grass Shine SKU# 5424-21 }
1 1/8 yard backing
Scrap of fusible web

HB = Honey Bun
JR = Jelly Roll

1. Open HB.  Start with any colored strips that are in the HB twice.  If you are using make life you’ll have 5.
Sew them as shown below on the right
HB strip – JR strip – HB strip
These will yield 9 blocks each

2. Take the rest of the colored HB strips and cut them in half.
Sew them as shown below on the left
HB strip – JR strip – HB strip
{ you can cut the JR strips in half… I just did it as shown below to save on cutting time }
These will yield 4 blocks of each color

3. Sub-cut strips into 4.5″ blocks.  As noted above the full strips will yield 9 blocks and the half strips will yield 4 blocks.

4.  I used all of the strips in the HB that were colored and got about 97 blocks… which is enough for 2 quilts.

5. You’ll need 46 blocks for one quilt.  I made more anticipating that people would make mistakes in signing them!  I had people start to sign them before the quilt was made.  Most people wanted to sign them horizontal, so I had to make it a point to ask some people to sign them vertical.  {thanks mom for all your help organizing this part!}

6. The next step is making the center block.
Print this PDF file and trace the letters needed onto fusible web.  Iron them onto the grey fabric & cut them out.

7.  Cut your background for the name at 12.5″ x 4.5″
If your name is longer or shorter, you can have it take up more than 3 blocks of space or make the letters smaller or larger.  Iron the letters in place.  I sewed mine down with a machine blanket stitch to finish them.

8.  Lay out your blocks.
Sew blocks into rows.  Press towards the colored part of the blocks.
Sew rows together.

9. Add Border #1
Border #1 is made from 4 HB strips.  Add 2 to sides and then top & bottom.  I used the white strips with small stars.

10. Add Border #2
Border #2 is made from 4 JR strips.  Add 2 to sides and then top & bottom.  

11. Layer…Quilt…and Bind.
I quilted in the ditch to avoid the signatures & messages.

I also cut my binding on the bias to get this effect.  Binding instructions can be found here.

Lastly I added a sleeve to the back so that this can hang on the wall.

34″ x 34″ Quilt

happy mother’s day!
all three generations!
just hours after aliyah was born!!

by Julie of jaybirdquilts!

Cushion Couture

You know what they say about great minds, right?  So I guess we shouldn’t have been surprised when we found out that we were both planning pillow tutorials for the Moda Bake Shop … using the same fabric line!  We decided to join forces and create one mega tutorial.  The Jaybirdquilts / Quilt Dad collaboration was born, and we were able to inspire one another to put forth the best collection of pillow patterns possible.  Think of it like chocolate & peanut butter… great alone… but even better together!!

So today we have tutorials for you for pillows.  Lots and lots (and lots) of pillows.  Why?  Because we LOVE pillows!  They’re relatively quick and easy to make, they let you integrate your favorite quilting fabrics into your home decor, they’re functional and, let’s face it, they’re FUN!  And what could be more fun that pillows made from the awesome debut line of fabric for the design team at Sweetwater, Authentic?

The best part is that these tutorials are for pillow covers — slipcovers, if you will.  They’re easy to change out with your decor, so imagine sets of these covers in your favorite seasonal or holiday fabrics… or even just a new set for any reason!

The other great thing is just how versatile these tutorials are.  You can make multiple versions from the same tutorial…. & with different fabric selections and placement each can look totally different!  We encourage you to mix & match.  Most of all, have fun.  We’d love to see your finished pillows.  Don’t forget to post them to the Moda Bake Shop Flickr pool!

here are all 6 pillows.
we numbered them to make your life a bit easier!

Pillows # 1 & 2
Layer Cake
Jelly Roll
Dessert Roll
Muslin for backings – Yardage will depend on the width of the muslin you use.  For each pillow, you will need two cuts measuring 27.5″ x 32″.  For this project I used a premium muslin in a creamy color.


Pillows # 3-6
Layer Cake
Assorted Authentic yardage for backings – Yardage will depend on what fabric you choose.
-For the largest pillow, you will need two cuts measuring 27.5″ x 32″.  I used one yard of cream authentic canvas for this. {The canvas is 58″ wide}
-For the 18″ pillow, you will need two cuts measuring 22″ x 18.5″.  I used 2/3 a yard of a black print from authentic for this.

-For the 16″ pillow, you will need two cuts measuring 20″ x 16.5″.  I used 1/2 a yard of a black print from authentic for this.
-For the 14″ pillow, you will need two cuts measuring 18″ x 14.5″.  I used 1/2 a yard of  a cream print from authentic for this.

Pillows 1 & 2

The two pillows I created are each a whopping 27″ square. I was shopping for pillow forms (for another project) when I came across these huge 27″ pillows. I immediately knew I wanted to make something large. My inspiration came from my children, who love to lounge around on the floor while watching TV, and the idea for these “playroom pillows” was born. I knew right away that Authentic by Sweetwater was the perfect fabric fit for this project.
I think these pillows would be great for anything from a nursery to a kids’ room to a teen hangout to a college dorm.  Oh yeah, and it should go without saying that they’d be great for grown-up decor, too!  Customize them with the fabrics that fit your needs best. I’d love to see what you make!

John – Quilt Dad

PILLOW #1 – Modern Medallion Pillow
Finished pillow size: 27″ square

The first design is my modern take on a more traditional medallion-style quilt. I love the idea of building a pattern from the center, border by border and bit by bit. I updated the design a bit to include some of my favorite “building blocks” and give it a fresh look. While each component is fairly simple, the overall effect of the finished pillow looks complex.
1. Center square
To begin, select two jelly roll strips: one of a featured print and one of a background print. The background print should also be one that is included in the dessert roll. Pull out the dessert roll strip that matches the background print jelly roll strip.
You should now have 2 jelly roll strips and a dessert roll strip.
From the feature print jelly roll strip, cut two 2″ squares and a 2″ x 5″ rectangle.
From the background print jelly roll strip, cut four 2″ squares.
Arrange as follows:
Sew each row together, and then sew the three rows together into a square block.
From the dessert roll strip, cut two 4.5″ squares. Then cut each square in half on the diagonal, resulting in four triangles.
Arrange the four triangles as follows, and then sew the triangles to the block. I sew the triangles to two opposing sides first and press before attaching the other two.
When all four triangles are attached, square the center block up to 6.5″.
2. First border
Select three jelly roll strips. From each, cut three rectangles 2.5″ x 3.5″ each. You should have 12 total rectangles — four of each print.
Arrange the rectangles as follows:
Sew each set of three rectangles together and press, but do not attach them to the center block yet.
Select two more jelly roll strips. From each, cut 18 1.5″ squares.
Arrange the 1.5″ squares into four nine-patch blocks. Sew the nine-patch blocks together.
You now have all of your components to assemble your first border: a top row containing two of the nine-patch blocks on its ends; a middle row with your center block in the middle position; and a bottom row that mirrors the top. Sew each row together, and then sew the rows together. Your pillow top should now measure 12.5″ square.
3. Second border
Your second border will be fairly simple. Select two jelly roll strips of the same print. From each, cut a 2.5″ x 12.5″ strip and a 2.5″ x 16.5″ strip, for a total of four pieces.
Attach the 12.5″ strips to the top and bottom of your pillow cover and press. Then attach the 16.5″ strips to the left and right sides of your pillow cover and press.
Your pillow cover should now measure 16.5″ square.
4. Third border – Flying Geese
The third border is comprised of 40 flying geese units. Each flying geese unit measures 2.5″ x 4.5″.
Cut 40 2.5″ x 4.5″ rectangles from a variety of prints from your jelly roll. These will be the prints that will be featured in your flying geese, so keep that in mind when selecting your prints. From the Authentic line, I selected the jelly roll strips featuring words, newsprint, and numbers.
Cut 80 2.5″ squares from a variety of prints from your jelly roll. I restricted mine to three different prints and, unlike the rectangles we just cut, these are meant to be the background against which your featured prints can pop. I selected subtle & small prints in the soft green hues.
Assemble your 40 flying geese units. I use a method similar to the one described here.
Arrange the flying geese around your pillow cover as seen in the photo of the pillow. Sew the 8 flying geese units that border the top of the pillow together, press, and attach to the top edge of the pillow. Repeat for the 8 flying geese units that border the bottom of the pillow.
Sew the 12 flying geese units that border the left side of the pillow together, press, and attach to the left edge of the pillow. Repeat for the 12 flying geese units that border the right side of the pillow.
5. Fourth (and final) border
Your final border will be another fairly simple one. From a variety of your leftover jelly roll strip scraps, cut a total of 26 2.5″ x 4.5″ rectangles. Sew six of them together on the short ends, creating a long 2.5″ x 24.5″ strip. Attach it to the top edge of the pillow. Repeat with another six rectangles and attach to the bottom edge of the pillow.
Repeat with another seven rectangles and attach to the left edge of the pillow. Do it one more time with the final seven rectangles and attach it to the right edge of the pillow.
Your pillow cover now measures 28.5″ square. Trim it down to 27.5″ square.
6. Quilt the pillow top
I prefer for my pillow covers to be quilted. To do this, I cut a piece of batting 27.5″ square and spray basted my pillow cover to the batting. I then free-motion quilted the entire pillow cover with an all-over meandering pattern in a coordinated thread color. You do not need a backing layer for this quilted piece — it’s just fine with the batting exposed on the back.
7. Create the envelope back
Create an envelope back for your pillow using two pieces of backing fabric measuring 27.5″ x 32″ each. Fold each piece in half so that it measures 27.5″ x 16″ and press the fold. On the backing piece that will show the exposed fold, machine attach a binding strip made from a jelly roll strip that is 27.5″ in length.
8. Assemble the pillow
Layer the pieces with the pillow top face up first, then the backing piece with the binding next (aligning the raw edges to the top, left, and right edges of the pillow), and finally the other backing piece (aligning the raw edges to the bottom, left, and right edges of the pillow).
Pin around all four sides and sew all layers together with a 1/4″ seam. I like to go around the pillow twice for added reinforcement.
Turn the pillow inside out through the envelope backing and insert your pillow form.

PILLOW #2 – Offset Stars Pillow
Finished pillow size: 27″ square

This next pillow combines two of my favorite blocks: the half-square triangle and the wonky (or liberated, or maverick) star. I love the seemingly random appearance of the two stars, slightly offset, against the backdrop of classic triangles. By chain-piecing and employing liberated block-making techniques, this pillow cover came together quickly.
1. Make your HST’s.
To start select three dessert roll strips that will serve as the background for your pillow. As the background, these prints should be light & subtle. From the Authentic line, I selected three of the beige prints.
From each dessert roll strip, cut 11 3 7/8″ squares. You should have a total of 33 3 7/8″ squares. (Note: you only need 32, so one of these squares will be leftover when you assemble your HST’s.)
Select 8 layer cake squares. Unlike the dessert roll strips, these will serve as the featured fabrics of the pillow. They should contrast nicely with the background squares that you just cut.
From each layer cake square, cut four 3 7/8″ squares. You will have a total of 32 3 7/8″ squares.
Here’s a look at what you should have cut by now:
Using 32 of your background squares and 32 of your focus fabric squares, make 64 HST units. I use this tutorial. Your HST’s should finish at 3.5″ each.
2. Make your star units
From your layer cake & dessert roll, select two groupings of three prints to create your star units. Each grouping should contain a center print and a coordinating print for the star points (from the layer cake), and a contrasting / neutral print for the background (from the dessert roll).
Here is what you will need for each (quantities are per star):
  • for the star center: one 3.5″ square
  • for the star points: four 3.5″ squares, cut in half on the diagonal
  • for the background: eight 3.5″ squares
Assemble your wonky star units. I use the technique outlined in the tutorial found here (but with the measurements I specified above).
3. Lay out the units and assemble
Lay out the entire pillow top in an eye-pleasing way. Arrange all of the HST’s with the feature fabric and the background fabric aligned in the same direction. If you think about the layout as a grid, the star units will take the place of nine HST units in your design. You can see where I placed my offset stars in my design, but I encourage you to lay it out in a way that feels right to you.
Sew the pillow top together row by row. The pillow top should finish at 27.5″ square.
See above for instructions on quilting and backing your pillow cover.

I think of pillows as if they are mini quilts… they really do offer us the ability to experiment and push ourself to try something new.  At the same time… they don’t have to be complicated… or take a lot of fabric!  Simplicity was the inspiration for my pillows…. I like to change decor often… and having bold graphic pillows… really helps to do that!  I have lots of green in my house… so authentic was the perfect fabric choice!  I hope you enjoy these simple… yet bold tutorials… and that they inspire you to make some pillows!

julie – jaybirdquilts

PILLOW #3 – giant disappearing nine patch
{ just a giant version of this block }
Finished pillow size: 27″ square
1. Pick 9 layer cake squares and sew them into a 9 patch
2. Fold your nine patch in half and then in half again and use a large ruler to trim it down to 28″ square
3. Then open it up & slice down the middle in both directions
4. Rearrange your blocks like this… and sew them back together!
5. Quilt the 27.5″ panel & follow john’s instructions to make the back!  I did an all over loopy pattern for the quilting on this pillow.  Insert 27″ pillow form & you are done!
PILLOW #4 – half square triangles
Finished pillow size: 18″ square

1. Pick 4 layer cake squares – two dark & two light
2. Draw a diagonal line down the middle of the back of the light two
3. Sew a scant 1/4″ seam on either side.
4. Then cut on the line & press towards the dark.
5. Trim the 1/2 square triangle units to 9.5″
6. Sew the 4 together as shown.
7. Quilt the 18.5″ panel & follow john’s instructions to make the back!  {The two pieces should each be cut at 22″ x 18.5″  Fold in half to be 11″ x 18.5″}  I did straight line quilting on this pillow to echo the bold triangles.  Insert 18″ pillow form!
PILLOW #3 – half square triangles
Finished pillow size: 18″ square 
#5 – rail fence

1. Select 4 layer cake squares
2. Cut the layer cake into 4 pieces 2.5″ wide
3. Repeat for the other 3 layer cake pieces
4. Sew them into a rail fence block
5. Repeat to make 3 more.
6. Trim them to 8.5″ square
7. Lay them out as shown above and sew together
8. Quilt the 16.5″ panel & follow john’s instructions to make the back!  {The two pieces should each be cut at 20″ x 16.5″  Fold in half to be 10″ x 16.5″}  I did straight line quilting 1/4″ in from each “rail” on this pillow.  Insert 16″ pillow form!
PILLOW #5 – square in a square
Finished pillow size: 16″ square
1. Pick 3 layer cake squares.  I picked a color for the outside that had 2 of the same print in the layer cake… if your layer cake doesn’t have any duplicates just pick 2 prints that look similar.
2. Cut both of the light layer cake squares in half on the diagonal
3. Take two of the triangles and pin them to the dark layer cake square as shown above
4. Sew 1/4″ seams and press to the dark
5. Trim excess fabric off
6. Repeat with the other two triangles and pin them as shown above
7. Sew 1/4″ seams and press to the dark

8. Trim to 14.5″ square
9. Quilt the 14.5″ panel & follow john’s instructions to make the back!  {The two pieces should each be cut at 18″ x 14.5″  Fold in half to be 9″ x 14.5″}  I quilted lots of straight lines on the outside triangles… and also quilted squares inside of squares on the black portion.  Insert 14″ pillow form!

6 amazing pillows!!
We hope you enjoy our ideas… and that we have inspired you to make some pillows!
john @ quilt dad

Play School Quilt

This quilt is inspired by my nephew Elijah. He just started pre-school but we call it “Play School” because “Caillou” goes to play school… and anything Caillou does is what my nephew wants to be doing! You don’t want to send your kid to pre-school with their favorite quilt… or one that took forever to make… so whip up a Play School quilt in just a few hours!
make life layer cake
make life jelly roll1 3/8 yards of backing {i used Make Life Silly – Earth 5421 26}
1/2 yard of bias cut binding {i used Make Life Fun Ocean 5425 23}
batting – at least 40″ x 48″
mettler top stitching thread in blue, green & white

2 1/2 yards blue giant ric rac
2 1/2 yards white giant ric rac

batting scraps of warm & white for appliqué
1. Select 12 layer cake squares for blocks, 8 jelly roll strips for stripes, & 4 layer cake squares for the appliqué.

2. Sew the jelly roll strips together in pairs & press towards the darker fabric. Trim the strips to 38.5″ wide. I did this by folding the strip set in half and using the 19.25″ mark on my ruler.

3. Sew the layer cake blocks into rows & press towards the darker fabric.
4. Sew the rows together & press the seams towards the jelly roll stripes.
5. Layer with batting & backing and quilt as desired. I used mettler top stitching thread 1/4″ away from the seams on the jelly roll portion & squares spiraling in on the layer cake squares. {See below picture}
6. Print appliqué letters from PDF file. If some of the letters get cut off in the margin just draw that portion… I didn’t want the letters to be any smaller!
7. Layer 2 layers of warm & white with a layer cake square on top. Repeat for all 4 letters. Roughly cut out the letters & pin through all 4 layers.

8. Use utility scissors to cut through all 4 layers. Not your good sewing ones!

9. Remove paper & re-pin to hold all the layers together.

10. Pin each letter one at a time in place and sew onto quilt 3/8″ in from the raw edge with top stitching thread.


11. Cut 2 pieces of ric rac from each color the width of your quilt. {aprx 38.5″} Stitch in place using top stitch thread in the middle of the jelly roll strip sections. It helps to use a walking foot.

12. Cut bias cut binding & machine stitch onto quilt. {binding tutorial}
13. Hand stitch binding in place & add a label.
14. Toss the quilt in the wash to get the applique to be all soft.

and after…
38.5″ x 46.5″ Play School Quilt
A layer cake & jelly roll combo yields at least 2 quilts and can yield 3 if you cut the appliqué letters from other fabric.

by Julie of jaybirdquilts!

Essence Turnover Topper

1 Essence Turnover
1/2 yard of sashing & binding fabric {Essence Leaves Teal 17487 11}
5/8 yard backing fabric {Essence Fall Flowers Red 17481 17}
Batting 27″ x 27″
3 yards of giant ric rac
Triangle square up ruler or 6 ½” ruler

This project is super easy… super fast… and is a great last minute gift!

1. Pick 32 triangles and lay them out as shown in the following picture. To create the angles that I did… I choose 4 green, 4 gold, 8 cream, 4 red, 4 blue, and 8 brown or dark purple.

{From here on out I’m going to reference the blocks by letters a, b, & c}

2. Start with block A and sew each pair of green and gold triangles into a ½ square triangle block. Press to the dark fabric. Set aside.

3. Next we are going to make the flying geese blocks which are labeled as B. Sew each pair of cream and brown or dark purple triangles into a ½ square triangle block. Press one to the dark and one to the cream so that you will be able to nestle the seams.

4. Before you can sew them together they needed to be trimmed. I trimmed mine down to 5 ½” so that they would be 5” finished. You can use any ruler but I have found that the Quilt In a Day triangle square up ruler is best. There are no horizontal or vertical lines to distract you. It is as easy as putting the 5 ½” line on top of your seam and cutting the dark purple sides. Then you rotate the block and repeat for the light side.

5. Once the blocks are trimmed sew them together along the cream side to create 4 of block B. Set Aside.

6. The last block to make is C the center. Sew each pair of red and blue triangles into a ½ square triangle block. Press two to the blue and two to the red. Again this is so that you will be able to nestle the seams so you’ll want to make the opposite corners the same way. See the arrows below…

7. Trim ½ square triangle units as shown in step #4 and then sew together into a four patch unit.

8. Lastly Trim ½ square triangle corner units that were made in step #2.

9. Cut sashing strips.
a. 4 @ 3” x 5.5” {small}
b. 2 @ 3” x 10.5” {medium}
c. 2 @ 3” x 25.5” {large}

10. Lay blocks back out with sashing as shown below.

11. Sew horizontal rows together.
a. The first row is block a, small sashing, block b, small sashing, block a
note: be careful to not rotate the blocks
b. The second pieced row is block b, medium sashing, block c, medium sashing, block b

c. The last row is block a, small sashing, block b, small sashing, block a

12. The last step in piecing is to put in the large sashing.

13. Layer with batting and backing and quilt as desired. I quilted a ¼” away from the diagonal lines and ¼” in on each side of the sashing using a variegated teal thread. {yes you quilt the piece before the ric rac is added}

14. Before trimming we are going to add our ric rac. Cut the ric rac into 4 pieces each approximately 27″ long. The finished topper should be around 25 ½” long so this you’ll have a bit of overhang at each end. Line up one peice in the center of your sashing.

15. Stitch down the center with coordinating thread. It is especially helpful to use a walking foot as you are stitching through the ric rac and the entire quilt. Repeat for all 4 pieces.

16. Trim quilt top to size and add binding. I cut 3 strips at 2.25” x WOF for my binding

17. A helpful tip is using binding clips to hold your binding in place on the back before you stitch it down.

18. Hand stitch binding.. add a label and you are done!

a super easy last minute project!!
{happy early thanksgiving by the way!}


by Julie of jaybirdquilts!

Family Traditions

This project has a history… My mom has a set of napkins for the entire family. It came as a solution to the place card dilemma & gave her a reason to use her new embroidery machine. {Apparently as a kid I was obsessed with place cards and would wait to the last minute to make them.} My mom bought a stack of napkins and began to embroider names.

A note from my mom… “I began my plan by embroidering the immediate family members, including our living parents. Then I made them for my sisters and their husbands. I added their children. No one was married when the project began. I made a few “blanks” for significant others and guests. Everyone loved the idea and knew exactly where to sit. The 1st year I had 2 nephews who had their napkins in their back pockets when they were ready to leave our house (they thought it was their party favor) NOT SO MUCH. I told them that they were to “stay” at my house and every year @ Thanksgiving they would get to use the napkin. As years went on some of the “regular” guests wanted to know when they would get a napkin with their name on it. I didn’t jump so fast to embroider the “blanks” I told them that if they were around for a few years (sort of a waiting period) they would get the honor of having a “Herman Thanksgiving Napkin” of their own. Of course the inaugural year, Julie & Brad had napkins, only Julie got to use hers, as Brad lives on the west coast and would spend most Thanksgivings in California. He did finally get to use his “Brad” napkin and I made one for his wife Karin too when one year when they came east for Thanksgiving.”

This “Family Tradition” has continued to grow. Mom has a stack of napkins now that sit out on holidays but aren’t used. Some are for people like my Brother & his wife that are on the west coast, and some are for those family members that are no longer with us. Having their napkins out reminds us of those who are not with us each holiday. This tradition that my mom started inspired me to make a set of napkins for my house. Below are instructions on how to make a set of napkins, napkin rings, coasters & tablecloth.

I hope you enjoy our family traditions & that I can inspire you to create some of your own. Visit my blog to learn more about our history & see the original napkins.

For Napkins, Coasters & Napkin Rings
Rouenneries Woven Fat Quarter Bundle
Rouenneries Jelly Roll
Rouenneries Charm Pack
FQ of Muslin
FQ of Warm & Natural Batting
Disappearing Ink Pen
Assorted Embroidery Floss
Sewing thread to match in red, grey, & off white

For Tablecloth {read tablecloth instructions before buying yardage}
4 yds of 12552-31 – Oyster Stripe {tablecloth main}
4 yds of 12552 35 – Turkey Red Stripe {tablecloth center}

napkin ring tutorial from belle and burger
mod podge
empty paper towel or toilet paper cardboard rolls

NOTE – I did pre-wash my red woven fat quarters that were going to be used for napkins & the red woven for the tablecloth. I do not usually pre-wash my fabric but these are very saturated with color and I wanted to make sure that there was not any color bleeding on the final project.


1. Napkin selection – Choose 8 FQs from the bundle to be your napkins. Some of the wovens look very different on the front & back so take this into consideration. With this in mind there is only one {the dot} that won’t work well at all. Other than that all could work. I picked 8 based off of color, weight, & making sure the back did not look too different. {You can make more than 8 but I have written the instructions with 8 in mind.}

2. Trim them square. I did not measure to trim them all to exactly the same size. I like the “handmade” feel that comes with each being a bit different. Mine range from 16”sq to 18”sq

3. Pick 2 corresponding jelly rolls strips for each napkin and piece them on the bias.

4. Cut one end of the strip to be the same bias angle.

5. Fold & iron in half. Open & fold ends in to enclose them and iron again. Now you have your napkin binding.

6. Start by pinning the binding on the right side encasing the napkin inside. Leave the top loose and stitch down the first side. {I used a small zig zag in matching thread} Stop just before the end.

7. Open the binding up and pin it back on top of the part you just sewed. Sew it in place 1/2″ from the edge. Pull the binding around and sew the next side down. Repeat at each corner.

8. When you get to the last side you’ll need to match up the two ends of binding strips. Measure where the bias cut edge lands and mark on the other side with the disappearing ink pen. Cut 1/2″ more to account for the seam allowance on both sides. Match up the cut pieces, sew, & iron seam open.

9. Pin in place & finish sewing the last side of your binding down.

10. Using the disappearing ink pen write the name in one corner. Using a backstitch and whichever floss you want stitch the name. As the backing will show be as neat as you can and tuck your starting & ending threads into your back stitches. {yes i put my name on before the binding in the above pics.. but it was easier to do after the binding was on for the remainder of the napkins.

{If you are not comfortable with your handwriting there are many fonts & templates available.}

11. Repeat for remaining 7 napkins. Keep in mind you can keep some blank without names.


1. Select one woven FQ to be the backing for the coasters. Cut up to ten 5″ squares from this FQ. {i did 8}

2. Take Muslin FQ and Warm & Natural FQ and cut 5″ squares to match up with the ones cut in step #1.

3. Match up squares to make mini quilt sandwiches of woven sq, batting sq, & muslin square with right sides out. Quilt each from corner to corner forming an X with matching thread.

4. Open charm pack and iron each square in half on the diagonal.

5. Select 4 charm triangles and lay them out on top of the coaster base from step #3 with the woven side facing up like this. {Think of it as how you close a cardboard box.} Pin in place.

6. Sew a scant 1/4″ around the entire square. Trim the corners & turn right side out. Poke corners out and you are done!

7. Repeat steps 5 & 6 for the remainder of coasters & you are done!

you can put a glass on your coaster…

or in it! it’s a 2 in 1!!

Napkin Rings

I found a great napkin ring tutorial that creates napkin rings from fabric strips. I took 4 jelly roll strips and trimmed them down to 1 1/2″ wide. {Honeybun strips are perfect but I had leftover JR strips} I then cut them in 1/2 at the fold and used the 20″ length. Other than that I followed the directions and love the result!


1. Measure your table & determine the size tablecloth you want to make. My table is 42″ x 98″ and my table cloth is 60″ wide and 118” long.

2. The width is determined by how wide of a “stripe” you put in. my “stripe” is 19 1/2” wide which makes my width 60″ total

3. Cut main fabric to length

4. Cut in half along the fold { or true ½ if it was not folded well on the bolt} separate on table and confirm middle measurement.

5. Cut middle fabric to desired width & length. Plan for ½” seam allowances.

6. Use a serger or an overcast stitch to finish the raw edges so they do not fray.

7. Stitch the two long seams with a 1/2″ seam allowance. Press open.

8. To finish raw edges fold fabric over 1/2″ & Iron. Repeat to enclose raw edge & stitch in place.

8 Napkins {up to 16}
8 Coasters {up to 10}
8 Napkin Rings {2 for each leftover JR strip}
1 Tablecloth

Countless years of more family traditions!


by Julie of!

The Candy Box {youth quilt}

the candy box finishes at 50″x60″ and is a perfect youth quilt

i made mine out of hushabye and it is adorable!

1 Charm Pack

1 Layer Cake

1 yd border – Dragonfly Brown 23018-41

1/3 yd inner border – Droplets Pink 23002 45

3 1/2 yds backing if print is directional (piece vertically)
3 yds if you pick a different not directional print (piece horizontally)
I used Bunny Damask Brown 23006-44 and needed 3 1/2 yds

Scrappy binding from Layer Cake leftovers

Cutting Mat with printed grid.
10 1/2″ or larger square ruler
PDF Template – {the last page of the printable version.}

1. Start by Planning out your quilt.
Each block will use one charm and 2 Layer Cake pieces. I’ll be using a-d throughout the tutorial to help guide you.

You can “audition” colors in blocks by folding the one LC diagonally on top of another and putting the charm in the center. {see below on design wall}
It will give you an approximate view of what the block will look like.
If you want a scrappy unplanned look you can skip this step.

2. Once you have the 20 blocks planned its time to start cutting. Start by working with one block at a time.

3. The layer cake pieces need to be cut down to 6×10. Is the print is not directional it does not matter what side you cut from. If the print is directional you will need to pay attention. If the LC will be the side triangles {a & c} or top and bottom triangles {b & d}. If it is going to be the sides you want to cut the 4″ section off one side. It it is going to be the top and bottom you will want to cut the 4″ section off the top or bottom.
4. Now you need to slice it into the two units. This isn’t difficult but if you aren’t paying attention it is easy to mess up. Luckily I only messed up once and you have 2 extra Layer Cake pieces!
Line your 6×10 piece up with the grid on your mat. You want to line your ruler up 2″ down on the left and 2″ up on the right. This should give you a 45 degree angle that will slice your piece diagonally from top left to bottom right. To be sure this is where it helps to line up the template you printed and cut out. The piece you are cutting should be a bit bigger. {do not use the template to cut your fabric.. it is only to help you line things up.. also i added a grain line on the one for you guys} cut!

For top/bottom {b & d} pieces that are directional you’ll want to put them on your cutting board horizontally. Measure in 2″ from the bottom left and 2″ in from the top right and repeat all other steps.

5. Now you need to trim off a little triangle. Line your ruler up with the line you just cut and the point of the piece at 2 1/2″ Cut.
{the template helps here too}

I found it easiest to cut one block and sew one block– much less chance of mixing pieces up. This is where a design wall is extremely helpful.

Now it is time to sew. The only “difficult” thing here is partial seams… but they are not hard!! The outside pieces have 2 long edges and 2 short… but they are NOT mirror images. 2 sides are bias and 2 are not. Make sure you keep the straight of grain edges on the outside and attach the bias edges to the charm.
6. Pick one outside piece {a} and your charm. line them up and sew 1/2 way down the charm.

7. Stop and remove. Iron the seam out and away from the charm. All seams for this quilt will be away from the charm. It does not matter that your pieces are hanging and not all sewn together. we’ll get there.
8. We are going to continue to piece the block in a counter clockwise manner. Add piece {b} and sew the entire seam. Press out.

9. Repeat to add {c}
10. Lastly add {d} and sew the entire seam. Press out.
11. Now that piece {d} has been put on you have what you need to finish sewing seam #1 to attach {a}. Finish sewing and press out. You have finished one block!
12. The beauty of this block is none of the angular seams line up with each other when sewing all the blocks together. So it leaves a good amount of “fudge” room. Use your 10 1/2″ or larger square ruler to trim your block up to 10 1/2″square. Do your best to keep the charm on a 45 degree angle. ( The center of the charm should be at 5.25″)
13. Repeat for 19 more blocks. Once you get the hang of it they go fast. I got the entire top with borders and all done in one day with some breaks and distractions too!
14. Once all 20 blocks are done sew the rows. Press seams in each row in the opposite direction of the next. Then sew all the rows.
15. Attach inner borders.
Inner border – cut (Cut 5 WOF x 1.5 and piece)
(2) 1 1/2″ x 50.5″ (or the length of your top)
(2) 1 1/2″ x 42.5″ (or the width of your top with the side borders on)
16. Attach outer borders.
Outer border – cut – (Cut 6 WOF x 4.5 and piece)
(2) 4 1/2″ x 52.5″ (or the length of your top w/ inner border)
(2) 4 1/2″ x 50.5″ (or the width of your top with both side borders on)
17. Layer & Quilt. I did a loopy design in brown thread on the top & bottom.
18. Use the 4×10 leftover Layer Cake pieces to make a scrappy binding. You’ll need about 230″ I cut mine to 2.25 x 10 and sewed them together on an angle.

one adorable quilt!!

want a kit? 2 great shops are offering them!

Elkhorn Quilt Company has hushabye kits
The Quilt Shoppe will be offering kits of “the candy box” in an assortment of moda collections very shortly


You may notice that the outside the pieces create secondary pinwheels. You can make them the focus by using the same fabric in the center and planning out your LC pieces to have 4 of the same color in each corner. For this you would need 2 layer cakes and 1/2 yd of the fabric you want to be in the center of the blocks. See the image below for a sample made out of Simple Abundance.

I have 9 blocks cut and on my design wall. You need to cut and plan this way because the four pieces that will make each “pinwheel” will actually be in 4 different blocks. I’m not sure if I’m going to stop here and make a table topper or keep going and make a large quilt. Stop by my blog and let me know what you think I should do!
by Julie of jaybirdquilts!

Sweetwater Flower Table Runner

This adorable runner was designed by the family trio best known as “Sweetwater” Their first line of fabric from Moda is called au-then-tic and is hitting shelves now! click here to download the pattern.

1/2 yd backing
(3) 12″ squares flower backgrounds (can be cut from FQs)
(3) FQs for flowers
(3) charm squares for flower centers
15×38 batting
5×15 fusible web

1. Cut 3 flower backgrounds to 12″ x 12″
2. Line the 12″ x 12″ square on your grid of your mat board and cut off a 3″ x 3″ triangle.

3. Repeat for all 4 corners.

4. With RST sew the pieces together along one edge only. Repeat to add third octagon.

5. Cut a slit in the center piece. This will be used later to turn the piece right side out.

6. Layer batting, backing right side up and top piece right side down.

7. Sew through all layers with a 1/4″ seam.

8. Trim extra backing and batting. Be sure to clip in at inside corners.

9. Turn through 3″ slit and press out octagons by hand. Then press with an iron and set aside.

10. Fold your flower FQ in half and pin. Trace flower template. Rotate it 180 to continue tracing.

11. Make a small slip through one layer. Sew on drawn line all the way around. Turn through slit.

12. Repeat 2 more times. Your flowers should look like this.

13. Draw a 4″ square on your fusible web. Mark in 1″ from each corner and draw lines. You are making mini versions of your flower backgrounds. Repeat 2 more times and iron onto 3 charm squares.

14. Iron onto flower center and stitch in place. I used a small zig zag with matching thread. Repeat for other 2 flowers.

15. Pin flower onto runner base. A quilting pattern is provided on the original pattern. You can draw it on or just go for it like I did!

16. One attached flower! Repeat for other 2.

17. The original pattern does not call for it but I added a bit more quilting my stitching around the entire topper 1/4″ in.

that is it!

one super cute table runner

the lovely ladies over @ sweetwater are having a contest!

We know you have some type of fabric in your stash that would be perfect for this pattern. To enter the contest, make the table runner in your choice of fabric, photograph it and send us the picture (e-mail to We think it would be lots of fun to see what it would look like in different colors and patterns. If you show it on your blog, give us your web address and we will link from our site.

You have until the end of August to enter. My mom told me this pattern was so easy, even I could make it. That may be stretching it a bit, but she whipped it out in just a couple of hours. If you are a beginner, this would be perfect for you.

One random winner will receive one of our authentic Jelly Rolls. We can’t wait to see what you come up with! Remember, you have until August 31 to enter.

so go visit their blog and enter!

and don’t forget to upload it to the moda bake shop flickr group!
I think this runner works as a perfect display for jelly rolls! pictured – Mill House Inn by Fig Tree Quilts, Authentic by Sweetwater, Rouenneries by French General

Giant Pincushions

These are super simple to make and adorable! They come in handy around your sewing room and work as great gifts for sewing friends.

honeybun or jelly roll strips
hand sewing needle & matching thread
pincushion filler of your choice

Patisserie by Fig Tree – Neptune by Tula Pink

1. Pick 3 honeybun strips that look good together and have some contrast.
2. Sew them together into a strip set. Offset the start of your strips like this.

3. Press seams. This can be in any direction.
4. Measure your strip to make sure it is 3 ½” wide. If it is not it is ok if it is smaller (your ¼ is bigger) but not larger (you are sewing too scant) Correct if needed and write down what the width of your strip is.
5. Cut a 45 degree angle at the one end of your strip.

6. Turn your ruler so you can cut a diamond. Cut it to be 3 ½” or the width of your strip set.
Repeat for a total of 8 diamonds.

7. Place diamonds RST into 4 sets making sure that the top points are the same fabrics.

8. Pin & Sew along 2 sides from top to bottom pivoting in the center. (repeat 3 times for 4 sets)

9. Open and press towards solid strip. (not the part with 2 seams) (repeat 3 times.)

10. Similar to step # 7 place diamond sets RST and pin. The ironing from step #9 should help you interlock the seams at the top and bottom. Sew 2 sides from top to bottom, repeat for 2nd set, and iron again.

11. Now you have 2 halves of your pincushion.

12. Put one half inside the other RST. Pin all the way around and sew leaving a 1 ½” opening.

13. Turn right side out. Fill with stuffing or filling of choice.

14. Hand sew opening closed and you are done!

See how easy that was!

Red White & Bold by Sandy Gervais – Neptune by Tula Pink

1. Pick 2 jelly roll strips that look good together and have some contrast.
2. Sew them together into a strip set. Offset the start of your strips.
3. Press seams. This can be in any direction. (since i had a light color solid here i pressed toward the blue print)
4. Measure your strip to make sure it is 4 ½” wide. If it is not it is ok, just write down what the width of your strip is.
5. Cut a 60 degree angle at the one end of your strip.
6. Turn your ruler so you can cut a diamond. Cut it to be 4 ½” or the width of your strip set.
Repeat for a total of 6 diamonds.

7. Place diamonds RST into 2 sets making sure that the top points are the same fabrics. You will have 2 leftover at this point.
8. Pin & Sew along 2 sides from top to bottom pivoting in the center. (repeat 1 time.)
9. Open and press towards solid strip. (not the part with 1 seam) (repeat 1 time.)

10. Similar to step # 7 place a diamond set RST with a loose diamond and pin. Sew 2 sides from top to bottom, repeat for 2nd set, and iron again.

11. Now you have 2 halves of your pincushion.

12. Put one half inside the other RST. Pin all the way around and sew leaving a 1 ½” opening.

13. Turn right side out. Fill with stuffing or filling of choice.
14. Hand sew opening closed and you are done!

see just as easy!!

you probably noticed that one of my pincushions has a lot of fabrics… this is achieved by cutting your diamonds from different strip sets… it makes a nice scrappy look and can help you use up leftover strip sets so you can go buy more fabric!

another option is to flip every other diamond… instead of a star you’ll end up with more of a pinwheel…

the possibilities are endless!!

Super cute pincushions.. you won’t be able to make just one!
3 Honeybun strips = 6 1/2″ x 6 1/2″ x 3″
2 Jelly Roll strips = 8″ x 7″ x 3″

by Julie of jaybirdquilts!

Coupon Clutch

Times are tough and we are all trying to save as much as we can! I designed this tutorial to be a cute and fashionable way for you to organize your coupons. I hope you enjoy making it as much as I did!

Charm Pack – I used Objects of Desire by Sandy Gervais
1/3 yd of Pellon decor bond interfacing
a set of magnetic fasteners
white card stock
scrap of fusible web (7″ x 4″) Therm-O-Web or Steam a Seam
PDF file of organizer tabs

1. Take 18 charms and cut them into 3 bricks and one square. You can use more than 18 charms if you’d like to have more of a variety. You will need 54 bricks and 18 squares.

Bricks = 2″ x 3″ Square = 2″ x 2″

2. Randomly pick 3 bricks and one square and piece them together in a row with the square on one end.

3. Do this a total of 18 times for 18 little rows. This goes very fast if you chain piece! I pressed all seams towards the square.

18 pressed little rows!

4. You can go about this randomly or you can plan in out. If you want to do it randomly skip this step. If you want to plan it like I did, lay out your 18 rows alternating the square at the top and then the bottom so that none of your brick seams line up.

5. Cut your Pellon to 9 1/2 wide x WOF (or at least 30″). The assembly of the main piece will be in a quilt as you go method that uses the interfacing in place of batting.

6. Start at one end of the Pellon and iron one row onto the fusible side being careful not to put the iron onto the interfacing where there is no fabric yet or your iron will get very messy!

7. Place the next row on top of the one you just fused down and sew a 1/4 seam through both pieces of fabric and the interfacing.

8. Fold the 2nd piece of fabric back onto the fusible side of the interfacing and iron it in place. Again be careful to only iron where there is fabric.

9. Repeat this with the next strip and continue until you have all 18 sewn together. You may find it helpful to roll up the extra interfacing and secure it with binding clips to keep it out of the way as you work.

You may also find it helpful to place 2 or 3 pins to hold the layers together to prevent slipping as you continue to add rows.

10. Trim any extra interfacing. Your piece should measure 9 1/2 x 27 1/2. (It may be less than 27 1/2 depending on your seam allowance and that is ok!)

11. Flip your piece over so that the interfacing side is facing up. Take a pen and draw 3 lines on top of three of your stitching lines.

The lines are to be marked at
3 rows in from the right (c)
6 rows in from the right (b)
6 rows in from the left (a)
Make sure you draw them on top of the seam and not where the seam allowance ends.

The next few steps are to put the magnetic snap in. The locations may seem odd but I promise they will match up!

12. Start by marking the locations of the snaps. The female snap location is the stitching line one to the left of line c and centered top to bottom.

The male snap location is ¾ inch to the left of line a also centered top to bottom.

13. Magnetic snaps have 4 parts. A male, a female and 2 washers. Center the washers on top of the two dots you made in step 12. Use a pen to mark the two lines on either side of the dot. Carefully use a small pair of scissors to snip part of the lines so that you will be able to put your snap through. (A seam ripper can work for this too.) You do not need to cut the entire line and smaller is better on this part as you will be able to expand the cut more if needed to push the snap through.

14. Push the correct snap (male or female) through the fabric and interfacing so that the prongs stick out the back.

15. Put the washer on and press the prongs down toward the outside.

Repeat for the 2nd snap part.

The next few steps involve folding the body of your clutch together. Follow the pictures as they help to show what you need to do. This may seem a bit different from what you are used to but the only complicated part is folding. You’ll be amazed at how easy this will all come together

16. Start with your piece face up.

17. Fold the right side over so the fold is at line b.

18. Fold back the part you just folded so that the end goes a bit past b and you have created a new fold at line c.

19. The last fold is to take the left size and fold it all the way over to the right and make the fold at line a.

20. Put lots of pins in to hold everything in place.

21. One last step before we sew this all together. Measure in 1 1/2 inches from each side at the top and mark it with a pen or pencil. Measure down 2 1/2 inches on each side and mark this as well. Draw a line to connect the two dots.

22. Sew a ¼ seam on the left and right sides pivoting at the line you just drew. It helps to switch to a walking foot (dual feed) and go slow as you are sewing through many layers at some points.

23. Trim the top corners off.

24. Take your 7″ x 4″ piece of fusible web and fuse it to the top of your piece. The metal will get hot so be careful not to touch it!

24. Pin the open seam at the bottom and sew 2″ in along the bottom on each side with a 3/16″ seam so that you do not catch the folded piece in the seam. This should leave a good size opening to turn your piece.

25. Once you have sewn both sizes it is time to turn. Clip your corners a bit, take the paper off the fusible you ironed in step 24 and then turn the piece right side out. Poke out all 6 corners. I’ve found that a mechanical pencil with the lead pushed in works well.

26. Iron the top flap flat. The fusible will hold it all together. You may need to press hard with the iron since there are many layers.

27. You’ll notice that you still have raw edges at the bottom center. Fold in 3/16″ and carefully pin the seam together. Hand or machine stitch it closed. It is going to end up being on the inside so I did it by machine.

28. Now it is time to make the clutch have a bit of a flat bottom. To do this we want to sew across the bottom corners. Match the bottom seam to the side seam in one bottom corner. Pin on either side. Draw a line a little over an inch long across the piece.

29. Sew across this line to form the tucked corner. Sew very slow as there are many layers. We don’t want any broken needles as we are almost done!

Repeat for the other side. And flip the piece right side out.

You’ll end up with two neat bottom corners!

30. Put the magnetic parts together. Iron the top to make a crease for the flap to fold naturally and you are done!

See how easy that was!!

One adorable coupon clutch!

Now it is time to fill it with coupons. Print this PDF file on cardstock to make your dividers. Some may not apply to your shopping needs so print the ones that work for you. There are blank ones on the last page that you can use to add ones as well. Cut them out and put your coupons in order! You are ready to be a super savvy shopper!

Use the rest of your charm pack to make a 2nd coupon clutch for a friend! Or to make a mini version of amanda jean’s bag like i did.

I used 9 charms on each side for a 3×3 layout and didn’t trim them. So my bag pieces were 14″x14″

I also used fashion handles instead of making fabric ones. This gave me an opportunity to use my scraps from cutting the charms for the coupon clutch!

Off to the market I go!


by Julie of!