Have A Heart Baby Quilt

Hi, my name is Alison Tudor of Sew and Tell Quilts. This is a fun and quick project that could make a wonderful quilt for a baby girl or a large Valentine’s Day wall hanging.

Moda fabric Printemps
Designer 3 Sisters
Materials Needed: 
1 Jelly roll 44030JR 
1-1/2 yards  Printemps Linen 44035-11 for background and border blocks. 
3/8 yd Printemps Primrose 44030-13 for border. 
1/2 yd Printemps Tonal Scarlet 44036-15 for inner border.   
1/8 yd Printemps Scarlet 44037-15
1/4 yd Printemps Tonal Primrose 44036-13
3 yards backing fabric
3/8 yd binding fabric (5 strips 2.5″)

Cutting Directions

Cut 251 2-1/2″ squares of Printemps Linen 44035-11 for the background and border blocks.
Cut 24 2-1/2″ squares of Printemps Tonal Primrose for the inner corners.
Cut 59 2-1/2″ squares of a good mix of light and dark prints from the jelly roll for the heart.
Cut 4 2-1/2″ squares  Printemps Scarlet for the “L” 
Cut 4 2-21/2″ squares Printemps Pond 44031 14 for the “O”
Cut 5 2-1/2″ squares Printemps Scarlet 44037 15 for the “V”
Cut 4 2-1/2″ squares Printemps Buttercup 44034 12 for the “E”
Cut 4 1-1/2″ x WOF strips Printemps Tonal Scarlet 44036-15 for inner border.  
Cut 42 2-1/2″ squares Printemps Primrose 44030-13 for outer border blocks.

From your choice of binding fabric, cut 5 strips measuring 2½” x WOF  

Quilt Assembly

Working in sections, following the sectional layout diagram, sew the 2-1/2″ squares together to construct the rows. Press the seams in opposite directions for each row to help make the seams line up as you build the quilt top. Once all the sections have been completed, stitch the sections together to complete the quilt top center.

Sections Diagram

Making The Borders
 For the inner border, cut two 1-1-2″ strips 38″ long and two 1-1/2″ strips 40-1/2″ long. Sew these to the sides and the top and bottom of the quilt top center.  For the outer border, alternately join pink and cream colored 2-1/2″ border blocks to make a strip.  Two sides should require 20 blocks; 10 of each color measuring 40″. Two sides should require 22 blocks; 11 of each color measuring 44″.  Sew these to the sides and the top and bottom of the quilt to complete the top.

Quilt Layout Diagram

Finished quilt 44″ x 44″

Alison Tudor
{Sew and Tell Quilts}

Tiles Quilt

Hello,  my name is Cindy Sharp.  I am the person behind Tops to Treasures.  I am thrilled to be back with Moda’s Bake Shop today…presenting my original pattern, “Tiles.”

The name isn’t very flashy, but I could think of no better word to describe the effect of this pattern.  It takes me back to a time when things were made for both beauty and function, when floors were more than something to walk on, and back splashes did more than protect the kitchen wall.  
Using the Printemps line of fabric by 3 Sisters elevates my tiles to a whole other level.  These carefully pieced blocks no longer belong on a floor or wall, but in a garden filled with life and light and fresh air.  It is wholly appropriate that this line was given the name Printemps.  French for springtime, the name delivers all that it promises.
The drawings in my pattern feature a different line of fabric, also by 3 Sisters.  Vin du Jour provided the heady bouquet of color that inspired my pattern.  
In either fabric line the quilt is fantastic.  I hope you enjoy it as much as I do.
Tiles is made from 30 blocks that finish at 12″ square.  There are 15 blocks that turn one way and 15 blocks that turn the other.  You can see it in the quilt if you look for mirror images.  To get a better understanding look at the drawings below.  Pay close attention to the rotation of the edge pieces.  In the picture on the left  the golden arm is reaching toward the right….the edge patch arms all reach in the same rightward direction.  (Is rightward a word?  Did I just make that up?!)  In the other picture they all reach toward the left.
Right Reaching Block
Left Reaching Block
Each of the 30 blocks is made from 9 patches.  I like the center patch the best!  It is just a 4 1/2″ square!
Corner Patch
The corner patches are straight forward as well.  They are pieced, but the directions are the same for every corner patch in the quilt.
Left Reaching Edge Patch
The edge blocks are the tricky part.  Due to the restrictions of standard markings on my ruler (not just mine, yours are marked the same way) I chose to foundation piece this portion of the block.   Please don’t be turned off by this decision.  I’ve written a tutorial to help you with this type of construction.  The process is as straight forward as that used in the corner patches…it is just different.  Time to grow my quilty friends.  You can do this!  If you have any trouble understanding the process please feel free to contact me.  I’d love to walk you through it.
I designed Tiles to take advantage of dark and light colors in a fabric line.   There are several in the Moda line up that would work.  My drawings are all done using Vin du Jour by 3 Sisters.  It is a striking quilt when done in just a few colors.

My sample quilt is made using Printemps also by 3 Sisters.  This line is softer.  Where Vin du Jour is dramatic and bold, Printemps is romantic and subtle.  Using a softer pallet will create more of a blended quilt.

What ever you decide keep in mind that you need approximately the same amount of yardage for either option.

For a scrappy quilt, like mine, use the fat quarter equivalents listed in parenthesis.   There should be enough fabric in a fat quarter bundle to obtain the variety that you need, however, some fabric lines lean more heavily towards lights or darks.  If this is the case with the one you have chosen remember to supplement your bundle purchase with enough yardage to complete the light/dark requirements.

Yardage Required
What I used
1 1/4 yds (5)
5 reds from Printemps by 3 Sisters
1 1/4 yds (5)
5 yellows from Printemps by 3Sisters
Lattice A
1 yd (4)
5 pinks from Printemps by 3 Sisters
Lattice B
1 yd (4)
5 aquas from Printemps by 3 Sisters
2 3/4 yds
 44036-41 tiny pink floral on cream
Inner Border
½ yd
 44303-24 tone on tone aqua 
Outer Border
1 1/4 yds
 44033-12 medium floral on yellow
3/4 yd
 44037-15 white diamonds on red
5 yds
 44030-12 large floral on yellow
  • 12 Sandwich sized zip lock baggies:  To  make your P.I.G. (project in a sack) easier to corral I highly recommend placing your pieces in zip lock baggies as you cut them.  You will need 12 baggies to do this.  Place all 30, 4 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ dark squares in one bag, all 120, 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ dark squares in another bag, etc.  If you use the kind that has a freezer label built into it you can write yourself a note as to the size and purpose of the piece.  (I didn’t bag up my borders or binding.)
  • 60 paper copies of each page on the following file:  Edge Patch Pattern You should have 60 of each of 2 pages for a total of 120 pages.
    • Before you print 60 copies
      • Please make sure that the solid lines forming the right angles measure 4″
      • Mark the pattern pieces of the original copy so that you know which piece goes to which type of block.  (This will be important if your piles get knocked over.)
      • Consider making a few extra copies….just in case.
    Cutting Directions:
    • Darks
      • 30, 4 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ squares for center of blocks
        • If from yardage –
          • Cut 4, 4 1/2″ x width of fabric (wof) strips
          • Sub-cut 3 strips into 9, 4 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ squares each for a total of 27 squares
          • Sub-cut 3, 4 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ squares from the remaining strip to complete 30.
        • If from fat quarters
          • Cut 8, 4 1/2″ x 18″ strips
            • 2, 4 1/2″ x 18″strips from each of 3 fat quarters,
            • + 1, 4 1/2″ x 18″ strip from the 2 remaining for a total of 8 strips
          • Sub-cut strips into 4, 4 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ squares each for a total of 32.  (you will have two extra.)
      • 120, 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ squares for corner patches of blocks
        • If from yardage –
          • Cut 8, 2 1/2″ x wof strips
          • Sub-cut 7 strips into 16, 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ squares from each for a total of 112 squares
          • Sub-cut 8, 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ squares from the remaining strip to complete 120
        • If from fat quarters –
          • Cut 18, 2 1/2″ x 18″ strips
            • 4, 2 1/2″ x 18″ strips from each of 3 fat quarters
            • + 3, 2 1/2″ x 18″ strips from the 2 remaining for a total of 18 strips
          • Sub-cut 17 strips into 7, 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ squares each for a total of 119 squares
          • Sub-cut 1, 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ square from the last strip to complete 120
    • Lights
      • 60, 5″ x 5″ squares for corner patches of blocks
        • If from yardage –
          • Cut 8, 5″ x wof strips
          • Sub-cut 7 strips into 8, 5″ x 5″ squares each for a total of 56 squares
          • Sub-cut 4, 5″ x 5″ squares from the remaining strip to complete 60
        • If from fat quarters –
          • Cut 15, 5″ x 22″ strips
            • 3, 5″ x 22″ strips from each of 5 fat quarters
          • Sub-cut 4, 5″ x 5″ squares from each strip for a total of 60

    • Lattice A
      • 60, 3 1/2″ x 2″ rectangles for edge piece A2
        • Cut 5, 2″ x wof strips
        • Sub-cut strips into 12, 3 1/2″ x 2″ rectangles each for a total of 60 rectangles
      • 60, 6 1/4″ x 2″ rectangles for edge piece B2
        • Cut 3, 6 1/4″ x wof strips
        • Sub-cut 2 strips into 21, 2″ x 6 1/4″ rectangles each for a total of 42 rectangles
        • Cut 18, 2″ x 6 1/4″ rectangles from the remaining strip to complete 60
    • Lattice B
      • 60, 3 1/2″ x 2″ rectangles for edge piece A2
        • Cut 5, 2″ x wof strips
        • Sub-cut strips into 12, 3 1/2″ x 2″ rectangles each for a total of 60 rectangles
      • 60, 6 1/4″ x 2″ rectangles for edge piece B2
        • Cut 3, 6 1/4″ x wof strips
        • Sub-cut 2 strips into 21, 2″ x 6 1/4″ rectangles each for a total of 42 rectangles
        • Cut 18, 2″ x 6 1/4″ rectangles from the remaining strip to complete 60
    • Background
      • 60, 4″ x 4″ squares for corner patches of blocks
        • Cut 6, 4″ x wof strips
        • Sub-cut 10, 4″ x 4″ squares from each strip for a total of 60 squares. 
      • 120, 4 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ rectangles for edge piece A1
        • Cut 8, 4 1/2″ x wof strips
        • Sub-cut 7 strips into 16, 2 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ rectangles each for a total of 112 rectangles
        • Cut 8, 2 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ rectangles from the remaining strip to complete 120
      • 120, 2 1/2″ x 2″ rectangles for edge piece A3
        • Cut 8, 2″ x wof strips
        • Sub-cut 7 strips into 16, 2 1/2″ x 2″ rectangles each for a total of 112 rectangles
        • Cut 8, 2 1/2″ x2″ rectangles from the remaining strip to complete 120
      • 120, 3 1/2″ x 2″ rectangles for edge piece B1 
        • Cut 6, 3 1/2″ x wof strips
        • Sub-cut 5 strips into 21, 2″ x 3 1/2″ rectangles each for a total of 105 rectangles
        • Cut 15, 2″ x 3 1/2″ rectangles from the remaining strip to complete 120
    • Inner Border
      • Cut 8, 1 1/2″ x wof strips
    • Outer Border
      • Cut 8, 5 1/2″ x wof strips
    • Binding
      • Cut 8, 2 1/2″ x wof strips
    • Paper patterns – cut triangles apart just outside the dotted lines.
      Break Time!
          The Whole Valley In a Glass of Wine
      If you just made it through all of that cutting, you really do deserve a break.  Just writing the instructions wore me out.  Put down the rotary cutter for the evening, put your feet up, and enjoy a relaxing beverage….a massage probably wouldn’t hurt either.
      Sewing Directions:
      Corner Patch
      • Corner Patches – Does anyone else think this block looks like an Angry Bird?!  You need to make 120, 4 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ (actual size) patches.
        • Gather baggies containing –
          • 120, 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ squares dark fabrics
          • 60, 5″ x 5″ squares light fabrics
          • 60, 4″ x 4″ squares  background fabric
        • When working with triangles, I like to leave things square as long as I can.  Making these patches two at a time accomplished that perfectly.
        • Gather
          • 2, 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ squares dark fabric
          • 1, 5″ x 5″ square light fabric
          • 1, 4″ x 4″ square background fabric
        • Sub-cut the 4″ square of background fabric diagonally twice – making 4 small triangles
        • With right sides together, align right angle of 1 small triangle with right angle of small square.
      Corner step 1
        • Sew pieces together.
        • Carefully iron seam allowance towards the triangle.  Be careful not to warp the triangle shape.
        • With right sides together, align right angle of second small triangle with opposite right angle of small square so that the “bunny ears” intersect.
      Corner step 2
        • Sew pieces together.
        • Carefully iron seam allowance towards the triangle.  Be careful not to warp the triangle shape.
        • You should now have a large triangle made of three pieces.
        • Sub-cut 5″ x 5″ square light fabric diagonally, once – making two large triangles.
        • With right sides together, center pieced triangle on top of large triangle, aligning the hypotenuses.  Note – the pieced triangle is a little bit smaller than the large one.  It is supposed to be this way.
      Corner step 3
        • Iron seam allowance towards the large triangle.  Be careful not to warp the triangle shape.
        • Trim patch to 4 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ square.
        • Repeat with remaining pieces to make a second patch.
        • Repeat 59 more times to make required 120 corner patches.
      Left Reaching Edge Patch
      • Edge Patches – This patch looks like a  Y to me.  You need to make 60 Right facing and 60 left facing, 4 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ (actual size) patches.
        • Gather
          • Lattice A fabric
            • 60, 3 1/2″ x 2″ rectangles for edge piece A2
            • 60, 6 1/4″ x 2″ rectangles for edge piece B2
          • Lattice B fabric
            • 60, 3 1/2″ x 2″ rectangles for edge piece A2
            • 60, 6 1/4″ x 2″ rectangles for edge piece B2
          • Background fabric
            • 120, 4 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ rectangles for edge piece A1
            • 120, 2 1/2″ x 2″ rectangles for edge piece A3
            • 120, 3 1/2″ x 2″ rectangles for edge piece B1 
          • Paper foundation patterns
            • 60, right reaching
            • 60, left reaching
        • Use instructions in Paper Piecing tutorial to complete 120 edge patches.  I highly recommend that you keep your left reaching and your right reaching patches in separate piles.
        • NOTE: 
          •  You can easily tell a right reaching from a left reaching by setting the block in front of you with the largest triangle closest to you.  Thus situated, look at the long arm of the Y.  It reaches up and to the ______.
          • Paper Piecing is done “upside down”  do not worry if your left blocks look like right blocks and your right blocks look like left blocks.  As long as the group called left all look like each other and different from the group called right you are doing okay.
      • Blocks
        • Use the pictures for each block
        • Make one block at a time.
        • Lay your patches out in front of you and make sure that…
          • The largest triangle in the edge patch always touches the center patch.
          • The Lattice fabrics appear to continue through the block.  It kind of looks like four sticks arranged end to edge to create a large square on point.  The opposite sides of this square are the same color.
          • If the lattice sticks look broken, or you can’t get them to line up correctly, you probably have a mixture of left and right reaching edge patches.
          • The small dark squares always touch the large dark square in their interior corners.
      Right Reaching Block
        •  15, Right Reaching
          • Gather
            • 15, 4 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ squares dark fabric
            • 60, corner patches
            • 60, right reaching edge patches
          • Use tips outlined above to construct 15 blocks
          • Trim blocks to 12 1/2″ x 12 1/2″


      Left Reaching Block
        • 15, Left Reaching
          • Gather
            • 15, 4 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ squares dark fabric
            • 60, corner patches
            • 60, left reaching edge patches
          • Use tips outlined above to construct 15 blocks
          • Trim blocks to 12 1/2″ x 12 1/2″

      • The Top
        • Center
          • Gather
            • 15 Right Reaching Blocks
            • 15 Left Reaching Blocks
          • On a design wall (Read shower  curtain, large bed, floor if you do not have a formal design wall.  Really, these things work just as well, if not a little more awkwardly.) arrange you blocks.
            • Rows 1, 3, and 5 are all Right, Left, Right, Left, Right
            • Rows 2, 4, and 6 are all Left, Right, Left, Right, Left
            • All blocks are arranged so that Lattice A and Lattice B fabrics are oriented the same way.  In my picture you can see, all of the yellow sticks are on top and bottom of the blocks and the grey sticks are left and right.  Yours should be this way too.
            • If you are having a hard time getting the lattice to line up correctly you probably have the wrong kind of block.  Make sure the block is reaching in a different direction than the one you are placing it next to.  It is easy to do this by laying the blocks on top of each other.  You can’t miss the differences this way.
          • Sew blocks into rows.
          • Iron seam allowances towards the right reaching blocks
          • Sew rows together to complete center. 
          • It should measure 60 1/2″ x 72 1/2″.
        • Inner Border
          • Gather
            • 60 1/2″ x 72 1/2″ center
            • 8, 1 1/2″ x wof strips of inner border fabric
          • Sew 4, sets of 2, wof strips together skinny end to skinny end.
          • Iron seam allowance open.
          • Sew long skinny strip to top and bottom of center 
          • Iron seam allowances towards the inner border
          • Trim excess
          • Sew long skinny strip to each side of center
          • Iron seam allowances towards the inner border
          • Trim excess
          • Your top should now measure 62 1/2″ x 74 1/2″
        • Outer Border
          • Gather
            • 62 1/2″ x 74 1/2″ center
            • Cut 8, 5 1/2″ x wof strips outer border fabric
          • Sew 4, sets of 2, wof strips together skinny end to skinny end.
          • Iron seam allowance open.
          • Sew long skinny strip to top and bottom of center 
          • Iron seam allowances towards the outer border
          • Trim excess
          • Sew long skinny strip to each side of center
          • Iron seam allowances towards the outer border
          • Trim excess
          • Your top should now measure 72 1/2″ x 84 1/2″
      • Layer and quilt as desired.  I used a pattern called Chantilly Lace by Anne Bright with Praline thread by Signature.
      I’d love to see your finished quilt.  Please send me a picture, or add it yourself to my Tops to Treasures group on Flickr.

      A 72″ x 84″ quilt to be proud of.  This one will knock your socks off when it is finished.

      Cindy Sharp

      Don’t forget the Paper foundation patterns

      Apple Cinnamon Quilt

      Hello this is Crystal Hendrix from Hendrixville to present you another tutorial. Here is a fun queen size quilt that would look good in any color combinations! I hope you enjoy! This version is perfectly lovely for Christmas in July.

      3 Layer Cakes – Double Chocolate by 3 Sisters
      1 yard Red 3840 32 (Border)
      1 1/2 yards Brown 3835 41 (Border
      9 3/8 yards Blue 4092 13 (Backing and Border)
        *Approximately 1 1/2 yards is used for the Border
      1 1/4 yards Cream 3840 34 (Binding)

      Warning: Everyone knows that when you get pregnant your brain does funny things…thus I have a pregnant brain and if something does not make sense please let me know and I will try my best to explain and help you all that I can!

      This quilt is made up of a set of 56 blocks that is then surrounded by 4 different borders. At any time you can subtract a row or column of blocks or even a layer or two, but know that it will not then coordinate with the instructions below.

      While sewing make sure that you use a 1/4″ seam line through out the whole quilt. 

      Here is the cutting instructions for all 56 blocks:

      # per block # total
      Red: 4 – 2″x2″ 224
      Cream: 4 – 2″x6″ 224
      Brown: 1 – 4 3/8″x4 3/8″ 56
      Blue: 2 – 3 7/8″x3 7/8″ 112- squares
      *cut each into a diagonal 224- diagonals

      Cutting Instructions for Borders: (lengths of borders will be given below)

      Border #1 
      With blue fabric cut 7 strips of 4.5″xWOF. 
      Border #2
      With your layer cake pieces you will need to cut it into 4 pieces to create a charm piece (5×5″). You will need 68 charm pieces or 17 layer cake pieces. You can choose a random pattern or you can cut according to make a color coordinated pattern. You will use two sets of 15 (top and bottom) and two sets of 19 (left and right sides).
      Border #3
      With the red fabric cut 9 strips of 3.25″ x WOF.

      Border #4
      With brown fabric cut 10 strips of 5″ x WOF.

      Now lets begin assembling our blocks. You will need to make a total of 56 blocks.

      I like to lay out my blocks so I know what they are going to look like, so #1 lay how your block. This will help you get the desired look of your block and will allow you to make any color patterns that you would like (I did not use any pattern but did a random pattern).

      #2 Pin two of your blue triangles to each side of your block. (Tip: fold your block into 4 so you can find your center mark – this allows you to line up your points easier). #3 Sew each triangle on to the sides and then press seam.

      #4 Grab your other two diagonal blue pieces and #5 pin them to your block and then #6 sew them on and then press seam.

      I like at this point to trim up my newly made squares, so that the next steps go easier. #7 trim your squares to measure 6 x 6″ (Tip: when trimming make sure that you measure a 1/4″ from the point of the brown square, this will allow your points to be lined up perfecting when adding the border pieces of the block). #8 Lay your block out now and then #9 sew the top, middle and bottom pieces together and press seams. I lay them back out afterwards to make sure that I did it right (believe it or not, I do mess up in this area more often than you would think).

      #10 Now pin your pieces together (I like to do it at the seam lines, this allows it so that my seams all line up and match), sew and press. #11 Now trim your blocks to a 9 x 9″ block. (Please forgive this picture, when editing I though it was a picture of the finished block I was using – so imagine that this block has the border pieces on). #12 Finish making the other 55 blocks.

      Now it’s time to assemble the quilt! When assembling my quilt top I did a random order, I just grab a block and added it. If you are doing a random order, this eliminates laying it all out and then labeling rows, but do whatever you desire. #13 Sew and press your 56 blocks into a 7×8 block pattern. So this is 7 rows of 8 blocks or 8 rows of 7 blocks. I sewed all the rows together and then added all the rows together. Make sure you press all your seams as you go.

      #14 Now with our first border we will now sew together our 7 strips of blue to make 2 sets of 4.5 x 60″ and 2 sets if 4.5 x 76.5″. Now the shorter sets are sewn to the top and the longer sets are sewn to the sides. Press all seams.

      For the second border we are using layer cake pieces that we cut into charm pieces. I did try to do a color pattern and it does line up properly but if you are going to do a random order feel free to do so. #15 Sew two sets of 15 charm pieces. The colors shown above is the color pattern I used. Just make sure that you keep your bottom and top separate as it will make a difference.

      #16 Sew together 2 sets of 19 charm pieces. Once again these are the color patterns I used and again make sure you keep your left and right sides separate and labeled if you are using a color pattern.

      You don’t have to use my color pattern but can create your own.

      #17 Making sure that you have your sides separated, add the top and bottom first then your sides. I like to pin my charm sets the quilt top so I can line up my seams as well and make sure that I line up the border correctly.

      #18 with your third border take your strips and make 2 sets of 3.25 x 77″ and 2 sets of 3.25 x 91.5″. Sew the shorter pieces to the top and the longer pieces to the sides of your quilt top. Make sure you press your seams.

      Once again you can see that my editing skills are lacking. So we will continue on with #18 – but make it part b! With your fourth and final border make 2 sets of 5 x 82.5″ and 2 sets of 5 x 100.5″. Once again sew the shorter sets to the top and bottom and the longer pieces to the sides. Press your seams.

      #19 Your quilt top is now finished! Baste, quilt and bind as desired!

      When you are finished you will end up with a queen size quilt approximately 91″ x 100″. I consider this to be my modern take on this type of block quilt. Some may say otherwise but to me, it is more modern.

      This will look amazing on the back of your couch that you can grab when you want to snuggle while watching a good movie or read a good book. It will also look amazing on your bed!

      If you have any questions please let me know! I am fully aware that I am not perfect and appreciate any pointers that I made a “goof”. Enjoy!

      Crystal Hendrix

      Coins in the Fountain Quilt

      45″ x 66″

      Pat Sloan here!  If we are just meeting… I’m the host of American Patchwork & Quilting Radio, a Moda fabric designer, an author, lecturer, and teacher. You can find all I do at my site patsloan.com. Be sure to sign up for my email newsletter and join me daily at my blog for quilt chat!

      I’m delighted to be here to share my quilt, “Coins in the Fountain”.  The name is a play on the honey bun being cut into stacked “coins,” coins I’d throw into a fabulous fountain in Paris. If I were in Paris, but I’m in Virginia where I am practicing how to say “Papillon’ with a French Accent…wink!

      There is nothing I like better than being able to make a fast quilt with amazing fabrics. I love to let the fabrics do the talking.  I started with a delicious “Papillon” honeybun and I added two fabrics to the mix.  One is a beautiful butterfly print from the “Papillon” line.  The other fabric I selected  is a medium blue “Cross Weaves Woven” from Moda.  I love the cross weaves as they have a slight texture and there is no right or wrong side to them.

      Once you pick the fabrics you are good to go on this journey to Paris with me… now to find the best fountain….mmmm


      •    Honey bun of Papillon by 3 Sisters
      •    22″ of blue Cross Weaves Wovens
      •    21″ x 67″ of Butterfly fabric from Papillon line
      •    3 yds backing

      TIP – I got this tip from my friend Kimberly Einmo, take a sticky roller and run it over both sides of your honeybun to remove the lint .. it works perfectly! Now unroll your Honey bun…

      The honeybuns and jelly roll are usually rolled by color. I want to mix up the colors for sewing them together into coin strips.

      Instead of sorting the strips ahead of time into sewing order, I just separate the colors to piles next to my  sewing machine. Often there will be more of one color than another. As I sew I judge when to skip over the smaller pile so they are spaced out more.

      Tip 1 – Be sure your precut ‘points’ are even as they feed under the needle.  Mine are even under the foot and I am adjusting them as I sew.

      Tip 2 –  I sewed 10 strips together at a time. To avoid them ‘warping’ to one side, I alternated the ends I sewed from. 

      I found a 10 strip unit was easiest to handle. After you have those sewn, sew two units of 10″ to each other. Or move onto sub-cutting.

      There are 66 strips sewn to make one unit. I left a few unsewn so that I was able to vary color if I need to when I get to sewing the long unit.

      •    Sub-cut the strips into 7.5″ units.
      •    Sew 66 ‘coins’ to make a strip panel

      Make 3 coin units of 66 strips.

      You can see how my colors are varied… and there were not as many red fabrics in this collection, so I scattered them about.

      Now onto your beautiful wide strip!  I am working with an ‘unseamed’ strip. The butterflies are also directional on the length, so it worked perfect for this quilt. If you select a fabric that is directional the other way, you will need to sew a seam to make the needed length.

      Cut 2 wide strips 10.5″ x 66.5″

      •    Now cut 7 blue strips 1.5″ x width of fabric.
      •    Sew those all together end to end.
      •    Cut 4 units 66.5″ long.
      •    Sew the blue strips to each side of the butterfly fabric
      •    Sew the top alternating coins and butterflies
      •    The rest of the blue weave was used for binding.

      Here we are all quilted!

      I love a side shot to show the quilting.. want a closer look?

      I did very simple ‘wavy’ quilting to mimic water… remember the fountain?
      Vertical over the blue butterflies.

      and Horizontal on the coins with a loops in the blue sashing
      Want to see the back?

      I had some left over coins, so I pieced them into the backing by adding the blue backing dot to the top and bottom of the coins. 

      You can see the horizontal and vertical quilting on the back!

      I do my bindings by machine, if you want some tips on that visit my free pattern page for a {step-by-step photo tutorial} with a printable PDF.

      All ready to cuddle up! If you want to make your own, I have a few kits {here}.

      Pat Sloan


      Go Tell it on the Mountain

      Hi!  I’m Konda Luckau of Moose on the Porch Quilts.  I’m excited to share this quilt with you!  I made a quilt in the delectable mountain pattern with charm squares that is in my book Simply Charming Fun.  When I showed it to a friend of mine, she suggested I make one with a layer cake.  What a great idea!  When I saw Grace by 3 Sisters, I knew that is what I wanted to make my quilt out of.  I used a different layout with the pattern for this queen size quilt.

      As I sewed the quilt, I thought about the name of the fabric, Grace, and about the Christmas Season.  Combining that with the delectable mountain pattern that I was sewing, the name “Go Tell it on the Mountain” came.  I liked it because it made me feel like singing while I was sewing. 

      A layer cake makes this traditional pattern quick and fun!

      1 Grace Layer Cake
      5 1/2 yards of background and binding fabric
      2 2/3 yards of border fabric
      7 1/2 yards of backing fabric

      9 1/2″ square ruler or larger

      Cutting Instructions:

      1.  Cut the background and binding fabric into the following strips the width of the fabric:

                  A.  6 — 10″ strips
                              a.  Sub cut into 24 — 10″ squares
                  B.  4 — 9 1/2″ strips
                              a.  Sub cut into 16 — 9 1/2″ squares
                  C.  12 — 2″ strips
                              a.  Sub cut into 48 — 2 x 9 1/2″ rectangles
                  D.  18 — 2 1/2″ strips
                              a.  set aside 8 strips for the inner border
                              b.  set aside 10 strips for the binding

      2.  Cut the large border fabric into 9 — 9 1/2″ strips the width of the fabric

      Sewing Instructions:

      1.  Take 24 of the layer cake squares and the 24 — 10″ background squares.  Draw a diagonal line on the back of all of the layer cake squares.

      2.  Take one layer cake squares and one 10″ background square.  Place them right sides together and sew a scant 1/4″ seam on BOTH sides of the line and cut on the line as shown below.
      3.  Repeat with all 24 layer cake squares and 24 background squares.  This will make 48 half square triangles.  Square up to 9 1/2″ as shown below.


      4.  Press open as shown below.  Make two identical stacks of 24 half square triangles.

      5.  **CAUTION**  Each stack will be cut differently.  There are two half square triangles from each layer cake fabric.  Make sure that the two identical halves are cut differently.  Also, sometimes using this method, you can cut two at a time as shown below.  This is NOT one of those times.  I tested this for you.  I probably should have picked a new layer cake square, but I decided to leave it.  If you cut two at a time this way, your mountains won’t match up.     

      6.  Now that you know what not to do, take one of the stacks and cut it into three 3″ strips as shown below.  The leftover should be mostly background with a small corner from the layer cake print.  I actually liked to cut and sew one block at a time, so I didn’t get things mixed up.

      7.  After you cut the three 3″ strips, swap the two outer strips and add one of the 2″ x 9 1/2″ rectangles to one side as shown below.

      8.  Sew strips together to make one block.  Repeat with that stack only to make 24 of the right side of the mountain.  The block should measure 9 1/2.”

      9.  Now for the other stack.  It gets cut into 3″ strips with the diagonal starting in the opposite direction as shown.  The leftover piece is still mostly background with a small corner from the layer cake print.


      10.  Then, just as before, switch the two outer strips, add one 2″ x 9 1/2″ background rectangle and sew them together as shown below.


      11.  Repeat with all 24 half square triangles from the second stack to make 24 left sides of the mountain blocks.  This block should also measure 9 1/2.”

      12.  Take all 48 of your mountain blocks and the 16 — 9 1/2″ background squares and layout the quilt as shown. 

      13.  Sew the blocks into rows.  Press.  Then sew the rows together.  Press.  The quilt center should measure 72 1/2″ x 72 1/2.”

      14.  Take the 8 — 2 1/2″ background strips for the inner border.  Sew them together into 4 pairs.  Trim two pairs to 72 1/2″ or the length of your quilt center.  Sew these to the left side and right side of the quilt.  Press.

      15.  Trim the other two pairs to 76 1/2″ or the length of your quilt center with the two side borders added.  Sew these two lengths to the top and bottom of your quilt.

      16.  Take the 9 — 9 1/2″ border strips.  Take 8 of them and sew them into 4 pairs.  Take the last strip and cut it in half.  Sew each half to one long border length. 

      17.  Trim the two shorter lengths into 76 1/2″ or the length of the two sides of your quilt.  Sew these lengths to the left side and right side of the quilt.  Press.

      18.  Trim the two longer lengths into 94 1/2″ or the length of the top and bottom of your quilt.  Sew these lengths to the top and bottom of the quilt.  Press.

      19.  Cut the backing fabric into 2 — 3 yard pieces and one 1 1/2 yard piece.  Cut the 1 1/2 yard piece in half along the fold parallel to the selvage.  Sew them back together along the short side so the length is about 20″ x 3 yards.  Sew this lengths between the 2 wider three yard pieces to make the backing.

      20.  Quilt as desired.  I quilted it with a paisley design.  Use the 10 — 2 1/2″ strips for binding.

      One queen size quilt 94″ square.

      Because this quilt only takes 24 layer cake squares, there are enough squares leftover to make a smaller quilt.  It takes 12 squares to make the center two rings of mountains.

      Happy Quilting!

      Konda Luckau
      {Moose on the Porch Quilts}

      Etchings Quilt

      Hi! I’m Andrea from Millions of Thoughts and I am so pleased to show off a beautiful line of fabric that I was able to work with in creating this quilt. There is no doubt that this colour combination and fabric is one of my new favourites. The Etchings by 3 Sisters line includes beautiful small and large florals, etching prints, and gorgeous French influences.
      This quilt is easy to make, and if you are like me and need to fight over share a quilt with wee ones on movie night, then this quilt may be for you! A generous 72 x 84 size will fit a twin or double bed, or will be the perfect family snuggle quilt for very tall people like me!

      2 Jelly Rolls – 3 Sisters Etchings (4060JR)

      3/4 yard binding (4061-25)
      6 yards backing (4061-26)

      Separate jelly rolls into two piles, lights and darks.
      From your strips choose:
      • 36 strips light/cream
      • 16 strips blue
      • 10 strips red
      • 10 strips grey

      Cutting :
      Small Blocks – cut each strip (lights and darks) following these measurements:
      • 2 – 2.5 x 4.5″
      • 2 – 2.5 x 8.5″
      • 1 – 2.5 x 12.5″

      Keep cut strips organized by size and colour.

      Foursome Block Sashing
      • 9 – 2.5 x 8.5″ dark strips from binding fabric (or any leftover dark strips)
      • 18 – 2.5 x 8.5″ light strips from backing fabric (or any leftover light strips)
      Main Sashing between rows
      • 4 – 2.5″ x width of fabric of the backing fabric (light)
      This quilt is comprised mainly of two similar blocks – a mirror reflection of each other.
      The first block, block b looks like this:
      (it looks a bit like a ‘b’ and the dark colour spirals out from the center in a clockwise path.)

      The second block d, looks like this:
      (looks a bit like a ‘d’ and the dark colour spirals out from the center in a counterclockwise path)

      To assemble the quilt exactly as I have – you will need the following number of blocks per colour:
      grey – make 6 ‘b‘ and 4 ‘d‘ blocks = 10 blocks grey
      red – make 4 ‘b‘ and 6 ‘d‘ blocks = 10 blocks red
      blue – make 8 ‘b‘ and 8 ‘d‘ blocks = 16 blocks blue
      *All blocks are done slightly scrappy – mixing ‘like’ colours together. As you assemble the blocks, randomly choose light strips and dark (according to colour) strips.

      *Pressing- always to the outside edge of the square
      *Sewing – use 1/4″ seams

      Instructions for making block b:
      1. Sew a light 4.5″ strip to a dark 4.5″ strip.

      2. Sew on a dark and light 4.5″ strip, following the placement diagram below:

      3. Sew a light and dark 8.5″ strip, following the placement diagram below:

      4. Sew a light and dark 8.5″ strip following the placement diagram below:

      5. Sew a 12.5″ light and dark strip to complete the spiral b block, making it a 12.5″ block.

      6. Completed block b:

      Instructions for making block d:

      Repeat the same steps as above for the mirror image block, called block d. The completed spiral looks like the letter d. To assemble block d, the colours go out from the center in a counterclockwise path. When starting step 1 for block d, the dark 4.5″ strip will be on the right side. Follow the diagram below as a guide:

      Making the foursome blocks:

      Pair up blocks b and d according to the colour combination you would like to make. You can choose an all over scrappy look – I chose a more distinct combination.
      Sew b and d together to make a pair:
      Arrange sewn pairs into a ‘foursome’ block, planning for the final quilt layout. Now we are ready to prepare the sashing for the foursome block.

      Sew foursome block sashing together (two light 8.5″ strips and 1 dark 8.5″strip)
      Attach sashing to the bottom pair of blocks:

      Press towards sashing.

      Attach matching pair to make the final foursome block. Press towards sashing.

      Arrange your large foursome blocks to determine your final quilt layout. Sew blocks together to make three rows of large blocks.

      Main Sashing:
      Piece together 2.5″ x width of fabric strips and trim to to 2.5″ x 72.5″

      Pin and sew sashing to rows, ensuring that seams between rows of blocks match.
      Press towards sashing.
      *optional – sew an additional sashing row to top and bottom of quilt, giving the appearance of a white frame around entire quilt
      Attach batting and backing and quilt as desired. I spray basted this large size, and had no problems.

      Cut and prepare binding for your quilt and sew according to your preferred method.

      One large quilt 72″ x 82″ – this quilt could easily extend to a queen size bed quilt by adding outer borders.
      Please stop by and say hello on my blog at Millions of Thoughts where you will find more photos, as well as a few details about other ways I envisioned, and re-visioned this quilt!

      Andrea Harris
      {Millions of Thoughts}

      A Charming Maze Quilt

      Hi, it is Kristy from HandmadeRetro back with another Moda Bakeshop recipe!

      This quilt  has been a long time coming… the fabric was lost in the mail and then the replacement package got caught up with the recent mail delays between the US and Australia. So I have a heap of satisfaction to bring you this postage-stamp-style maze quilt!

      2x charm packs of Little Apples by Aneela Hooey (because of the mail mix-up I have a layer cake pictured but two charm packs are all that are required for the recipe)

      2 yards of Etchings Slate for maze path and binding

      2 yards for border (Little Apples Aqua 18515 13)

      5 yards for backing (Little Apples Lollipop 18510 11)

      Step One: Cutting the fabric
      From the charm squares
      Cut each of the charm squares into 4 2.5″ squares
      You will also need to cut an extra 11 2.5″ squares from a combination of the backing and border fabric

      From the Solid fabric:
      Cut 20 2.5″ strips, sub cut these into 2.5″ squares

      Cut another 6 2.5″ strips and set these aside for the binding

      From the border fabric (Little Apples Aqua)
      Cut 4 strips down the length of the fabric 9.5″ wide and 65″ long

      Step Two: Construct the maze.
      The maze section of the quilt is made up of 9 uneven sections. Each block is constructed in the same manner and diagrams indicate which block goes where in the centre panel.

      Construct each of the nine blocks one at a time.
      I have gone through the step-by-step construction of a single block below. Each of the nine blocks will be constructed in the same way so I am not going to picture all the steps each time. The process of the block construction is pictured below but remember to refer to the individual block pictures/diagrams for colour placement.

      Some tips to keep everything organised.
      – Sew a small scrap of fabric to the first seam of each row to mark the block and the row number (this will also orient the left side of the block).
      – Work with one block at a time. Sew one square to the right of the last added to build the row, chain piecing. 

      1. Layout the 2.5″ squares using the diagram or photo to assist you. If using the diagram, the white squares refer to the solid (maze path) and the blue/grey squares are the print (maze wall).

      2. Get ready to start sewing. To keep everything in order I paired the first square in each row by placing square two face down on the top of square one. I then stacked these pairs with the pair for the bottom row on the bottom of the stack. If using the row markers (see below) place these between the pairs.

      3. Stack the remaining squares into piles for each row. You can see in this picture I started to stack them by placing the square on the right of the block on the bottom and stacking each square to the left on top. I was left with 10 stacks (11 for blocks 7-9).

      4. Chain piece the first pairs of the rows, separating with the markers if you are using them.

      5. Leaving the squares joined, take the next square to the right for each row. Stack with the square for row 10 (11) on the bottom and the square for row 1 on the top to get ready to piece. Chain piece these to square 2.

      6. Continue until all squares are added, you will have a block that has all the rows sewn together and these joined with threads.

      7. Working with two rows at a time, trim the threads between the rows and press all seams in the direction of the arrows. I leave the row markers on at this stage.

      8. Nest seams and sew rows together, being careful to keep the row markers free.

      9. Repeat with remaining rows, adding pairs of rows to the block as you go.

      10. Blocks 1-6 will be 7 squares by 10 squares, blocks 7-9 will be 7 squares by 11 squares.

      11. Press row seams to the bottom of the even numbered blocks and to the top of the odd numbered blocks. Trim the row markers off.

      Individual Block Layouts

      Constructing the Centre Panel
      Sew the blocks together in rows, nesting seams again.  Press seams to the right in row 1 and 3 and the left in row 2.

      Sew the rows together, matching nested seams. Press seams to the bottom of the panel.

      Adding the Borders
      Measure the panel vertically through the middle of the quilt. Trim two of the border strips to this measurement.  Find the centre of the border strips and panels by folding in half and marking with pins. Match centres and edges. Pin, sew, press seam towards the border.

      Measure the quilt horizontally through the middle of the quilt. Trim the two remaining border strips to this measurement. Find the centre of the border strips and the quilt top by folding in half and marking with pins. Match Centres and edges. Pin, sew, press seam towards the border.

      Prepare the Backing
      I prepared my backing with a vertical join. I cut the backing fabric in half and removed selvedges and joined. See this useful tutorial here for how to match up prints.

      Baste, quilt and bind
      I basted in the ‘hedge’ to leave the ‘path’ free for my chosen quilting design.

      I quilted my top on my domestic machine 1/4″ inside the ‘path’ with my walking foot. If you start from the beginning or ending square and follow around you will quilt the entire path (except for a small section you will need to do separately using the same technique.

      I straight line quilted the border, pacing the lines 3/4″. I marked the corners with a Hera marker to make identifying the spot to turn a little easier.

      One 60″x80″ quilt.


      Hidden Stars Quilt

      Hello Everyone,  I’m Crystal from over at Hendrixville.  I am proud to present another Moda Bake Shop Quilt! I had a lot of fun putting this quilt together, and even though there are a lot of little pieces, it assembles quickly!

      Hope you enjoy making it as much as I do!

      *This block I saw on someone’s blog and searched all over to find the instructions to it, or even find the name of the block. With no luck I decided to re-create it.*

      (2) Grace by 3 Sisters Layer Cakes
      (2) Basic Bella White Layer Cakes

      3/4 yard Bella White
      1 1/2 yard brown fabric (this is your last border color)
      3/4 yard for binding (any color you like)
      8 yards for backing (any color you like)

      I know that at first glance this quilt/block looks very hard, but the hardest part is having all the pieces facing the right way. Hopefully these step-by-step instructions will help!

      Here are your cutting instructions:

      Once you have cut out all the squares, we will start making our HST’s (Half Square Triangles).

      Take your white 3 1/8″ squares and draw a diagonal line. You can use a fancy quilting pen, regular pen, marker, or pencil. You will cut on this line so just don’t use something that is really thick.

      Once you have the line drawn, pin the square right sides together with a colored square. 

      Sew 1/4″ along each side of the line you drew. The fastest way to do this is chain stitching. Chain stitching is when you continually feed in the fabric leaving a little space of thread between each.

      Once you have your squares sewn together, cut on the line – splitting them into two.

      Press each square toward the colored fabric.

      At this point you need to trim up your squares. Depending on how straight your stitching is, you might have to trim more to make sure all squares are the same. If you do this, make sure you cut down your plain squares (white and colored) to the same size. In this case, just trim your block to 2 3/4″ squares.

      I am going to show you ONE way you could put together your blocks:

      Layout all of your squares into this pattern, then sew the rows together and then columns or…

      Separate them into 16 mini blocks (4 squares in each)

      Then increase them to larger blocks (16 squares each)

      Then finish up your whole block. Depending on you and how you visualize your quilts you can try this or:

      Separate all of your little squares into this pattern. This is where you can randomize your color schemes. But the block is made up of 8 of each of these. (8 white based ones and 8 color based ones). Leaving you a total of 160 of each.

      Then you will create this star with all of your little pieces. This star rotates to get every position. Then you assemble the quilt.

      Assembling the Quilt Top:

      You will need to sew together a grid of 4X5. Sew anyway you want them to go together, but again make sure you assemble them correctly (watch for accidentally turning a block the wrong way).

      Then you will have all your squares like this.

      Then you will add the 1st set of your boarders.

      Then add your second set of borders:
      Now you have your quilt top done! 

      Now baste, bind, and quilt as desired. A good way to use your scraps from your layer cakes is to create a pieced section on the back of your quilt.

      In the end you will have a quilt approximately 88″x106″, a nice quilt for you bed. This quilt will fit either a queen or a full size bed.

      Crystal Hendrix

      Layered Valance

      Hey there! It’s Rebecca Silbaugh from Ruby Blue Quilting Studio, back for another recipe! This time around I have for you a tutorial on how to make your own valances. I was looking for the perfect curtains to match the new paint in my sewing room. And let me tell you, after searching and searching I finally got fed up enough that I decided to make my own. Now I can coordinate my window treatments with any quilts I decide to display. Here’s what you’ll need to get started:

      One jelly roll (I used Oasis by 3 Sisters – Very Yummy!!!)
      One Yard of main fabric for pleated layers (I used #4044 11)
      1/4 Yard of an accent fabric (I used the pink #4048 13)
      Depending on the size of your windows and the number of valances you would like to make, you may need to alter the amounts of fabric needed. We’ll discuss this more in a minute.

      I added some buttons onto my valance where the pleats meet, but you could also add ric rac, pom poms, lace, or any other kind of trim you desire. Applique would be adorable as well!

      Don’t say I didn’t warn you, but this recipe does call for some math (just a smidge, not a bunch). To get started, you will need to measure the hardware for where your valance(s) will hang. First measure the width of the hanger and if it’s a curved piece like mine, you will need to measure the sides too.

      Alright, here’s the incy wincy amount of math needed. Take the measurements:
      (side x width x side = total width)

      For example my window measurements are : 2.5″ x 49″ x 2.5″ = 54″

      To calculate how many jelly roll strips you will need, take the total width and divide by 2. (54″ / 2 = 27).
      I will need to choose 27 strips to get the width to cover my window.

      Take those 27 strips and lay them out until you get a pleasing assortment that mixes the colors. Sew the strips together.

      Once sewn, you will need to trim off the selvage edges to make a straight square edge.

      Also, trim off 2 strips 5″ wide and set these aside for now.

      Fold the remaining strip set in half, right sides together. It should now measure roughly 15″ x the calculated width. Pin the edges if needed.

      Sew along the edge stitching all the way to the fold. Repeat for both sides.

      Trim the corner. Do not cut through your stitching! Fold the piece inside out and press. If you need to finagle (technical term for fudge) your seams to the edge and pin them in place until you press, you can do so if it helps. Top stitch around all 3 closed edges. Do not topstitch the open side!

      From your Main Fabric, cut 2 strips 2.5″ wide and set aside. Cut the remaining fabric into equal halves, approximately 15″ wide x WOF each.

      Now, look back at your window measurements – you’ll need those once again. Just a smidgen more of math, promise!

      If you have sides to your window hardware, take that measurement and add 1/2″ to it. (2.5″ + .5″ = 3″) Cut a strip the width of this measurement from each of the 2 larger Main Fabric pieces. ( 3″ x 15″).

      Then take the straight width measurement of your window and divide by 2. (49″ / 2 = 24.5″). Add 1/2″ to that calculation to get the measurement of the to front pleats needed. (24.5″ + .5″ = 25″) Now cut a segment the length of this measurement from each of your 15″ pieces. (25″ x 15″)

      Fold each of the pieces just cut in half right sides together so they’re only 7.5″ x measurements from above. Stitch along the two 7.5″ edges on each piece, trim the corner fabric, turn right sides out and press. Then topstitch as you did with the larger pieces strip segment for each of these pieces. Set aside.

      Now cut 2 strips 2.5″ wide from your accent fabric. Sew these two strips together into one long 2.5″ wide strip.

      * Depending on your hardware, if you have a decorative end that may be larger than 2″ tall, you may need to adjust this measurement to make sure your valance will fit onto the hardware.

      Sew the accent strip onto one of the 5″ wide strips cut from the jelly roll segment. Trim any excess so the accent is the same length as the jelly roll strip.

      Fold the strip in half right sides together and only stitch from the seam to the fold. Do this on both ends. Trim the corners, and fold right sides out. While pressing, make sure the un-stitched areas of each end are folded in and pressed to match the sewn areas.

      Topstitch only the sewn parts of this piece stitching along the top (folded) edge, the two sides, and stitching in the ditch (along the seam) of the accent fabric. (Stitching in the ditch along the accent fabric seam will form the pocket for the window hardware, don’t forget this step although I missed getting a picture of it somehow, I apologize. I must have just been in the groove and sewing away!)

      Now this part is a bit tricky, but just remember to breathe and go slowly. You’ll be fine. Top stitch the folded seams where the arrow shows. You will need to do this for all four seams (2 per end), this will enclose the seams and then your hardware won’t catch on it while you’re attempting to hang your valance.
       Remember those 2.5″ strips from the Main Fabric? Sew those together forming one long 2.5″ strip.

      Trim the selvage off one edge and fold over wrong sides together 1/2″ and press. Fold the raw edge into the crease and press again for a double 1/4″ hem. Topstitch the edge as shown. Measure the width of your jelly roll piece to be sure and add .5″. Trim the 2.5″ wide strip to that measurement and fold in the opposite end and topstitch as you did with the first one.

      Now comes the fun part. Time to layer! Layout your jelly roll strip with raw edges opposite you.

      Next lay the main fabric pleats, 2 larger pieces in the center and 2 smaller pieces on the outsides. Align the raw edges from these with the raw edges of the jelly roll strip.

      (If there’s a small gap in between the pieces that’s fine, just don’t overlap these pieces!)

      Place the 2.5″ main fabric strip on top of these right side down and pin all the pieces together aligning the edges. Press the 2.5″ main fabric strip up.

      Now place the smaller jelly roll and accent piece onto the valance aligning the raw edges and making sure the accent piece is going to be touching the main fabric.

      Pin in place and press. The valance is done, but…

      Remember that other 5″ strip from back in the beginning? If you have longer curtains you are going to be putting in the same window, you could use this strip for coordinating tie-backs. Press the strip in half wrong sides together.

      Open it up to see the crease.

      Press one side over to the crease.

      Press the opposite side to meet the first at the crease.

      Press in half where you originally had it at the crease, enclosing all edges. And pin if needed. Trim in half and topstitch. If you want to fold in the edges to finish them off, do so before topstitching. Or if you have pinking shears, use those to trim the pieces in half to bet the same effect as the jelly roll edges.

      One valance, approximately 20″ long and covering the width of your window with pleats at each corner and the center. Add buttons or any other embellishments you’d like before you hang it up, I put a button at each pleat.

      This is what it looks like during the day with the sun shining, it almost gives it a stained glass window feel.

      Or at night, the colors still show off beautifully.

      This is the view of my sewing room where it hangs. Please don’t mind the mess, it’s just a sign of works in progress and once I get the perfect lace curtains, the coordinating tie backs will look wonderful.
      I hope you like this recipe and if you have any questions or would like help on how to figure out what you will need to fit your windows, please e-mail me at rubybluequilts (at) gmail (dot) com.
      I also have made some other curtains for my house as of late, so hop on over for tutorials on those and to see what else I might be cooking up at my blog, rubybluequilts.blogspot.com.
      As always, I would love to see your version  of this recipe so e-mail it to me and I will post it on my blog or add it to the Moda Bake Shop Flickr Group!
      Until next time!
      -Rebecca Silbaugh

      Ruffle Quilt

      1 jelly roll: choose 12 strips OR if you don’t have a Jelly Roll, you’ll need (12) 2 ½” strips by WOF
      1 ¼ yard of fabric for solid strips and ruffles
      ⅓ yard binding fabric (or use 4 jelly roll strips)
      1 ½ yard backing fabric

      1. Take your 12 strips and cut each strip into:
          (2) 5” pieces
          (2) 7” pieces
          (2) 10” pieces

      See photo below:

      2. Start piecing together new strips. For each new strip you will need two different 5” pieces, two different 7” pieces, and two different 10” pieces. Mix fabrics and lengths however you want. The more random, the better. Your new mixed strips will be approximately 2 ½ X 42″. Make 12 mixed strips.

      3. Take your 1 ¼ yard of fabric and cut (15) 2 ½ X WOF strips. Set aside 10 strips; they will be used later for the ruffles.

      4. Layout the design, starting with two mixed strips then one solid strip. Continue until you use all five solid strips. You will use 12 mixed strips and 5 solid strips. Sew all strips together until quilt top is finished. See below.

      5. Square the top to 34” x 42”. NOTE: Depending on your cutting and sewing this measurement should be close.

      Making the Ruffles:

      1. Take the (10) 2 ½” x 42” ruffle fabric strips cut previously. Sew (2) 2 ½” x 42” strips together, making one long continuous strip. Repeat 5 times. Finish long side raw edges of strip with a small hem or zigzag stitch.

      2. You can either gather the strips by sewing basting stitches down the center of the strip and pulling stitches to gather the ruffle to 40”, or you can use a ruffle foot. We used a ruffle foot; it made making the ruffles so fast and easy. Make (5) 40” ruffle strips.

      3. Before you add the ruffles to each of the five solid strips, quilt the top as desired.

      4. Place one 40” ruffle on one of the solid strips of the quilt, determine where to hem the 2 short ends of the ruffle and do so. Using a walking foot, machine stitch down the center of the ruffle. Continue until you have sewn all 5 ruffles to the 5 solid strips.


      From binding fabric cut (4) 2 ½” strips, or use jelly roll strips.

      Sew all 4 strips together (short ends) to make 1 continuous strip. Fold binding strip in half wrong sides together and press. Attach binding to right side of quilt (raw edges even) and machine stitch all the way around. Turn binding to back and hand stitch down.

       Copyright 2010 Jamie Mueller and SunFlower Quilts
      *I hope ya’ll enjoy this ruffle quilt! If you make one too please feel free to email me with photos, I’d LOVE to see them!mailto:jamiemueller0522@yahoo.com