Fancy: A Jelly Roll Lap Quilt




Hi! My name is Keera from live.love.sew., and I am so excited to be sharing my first Moda Bake Shop project with you {!!}. This lap-quilt is so quick to make up, fresh and summer-y and super-satisfying in its end result. This quilt is perfect for both beginner quilters as well as seasoned wanting a quick project. 

The story behind this quilt is very simple. I was inspired by the vintage feel of Bonnie and Camille’s Happy-Go-Lucky fabrics. The prints in this line, especially the sweet and feminine florals, remind me so much of the vintage fabrics my grandmother sewed with when I was growing up, I couldn’t resist using for them for the quilt! I do hope you love Fancy as much as I do.  

 

1 Jelly Roll {Happy-Go-Lucky by Bonnie & Camille}                 
2 ¾ yardage {Bella Solids White}
4 ½ yards backing fabric {Happy-Go-Lucky Garden Aqua 55061 12 }
½ yard binding fabric {Happy-Go-Lucky Penny Navy 55065 17 }
Cotton/Bamboo batting {at least 75″ x 80″ – I used a Queen size which allowed a bit left-over}



step one:
Separate jelly roll strips and select 40 prints.

From solid white, cut:
36 – 2 ½” x WOF {width of fabric} strips; sub-cut these strips 7 times each into 4 ½” rectangles {252 total}.



From selected binding print fabric, cut:
7 each – 2 ½” x WOF strips

step two:
Match two prints together, to make 20 strip sets, in preparation for stitching.
step three:
With right sides together, stitch the 20 strip sets along the long edge. Press towards darker 
print. 
step four:
Sub-cut these strips 13 times, into 2 ½” rectangles {diagram a}: Set aside leftovers.



step five:
Match one white rectangle with one print strip set right sides together. Stitch along the long edge
{diagram b}. Press seam towards prints. Repeat for all remaining strip sets {252 in total}.



step six:
To assemble each fan block you will need:
– Four strip set blocks {diagram c}.



step seven:
Lay out four strip set blocks in a fan formation {diagram d}. Sew the top two strip set blocks
together, taking care to ‘nest’ seams. Press seams towards one side. 


Repeat for bottom two strip set blocks {diagram e}. 


Complete the fan block, joining these two pieces together and stitching along long edge 
{diagram f}. Press seams to one side.





step eight:
Lay blocks in a 7 block by 9 block layout as desired.
step nine:
Assemble quilt top in rows. Sew blocks in each row together, repeating for each row and 
yielding 7 fan block strips, each with 9 blocks {diagram g}. 


step ten:
Join each row along the inside edge producing your 7 block by 9 block quilt top.
  
step eleven:
Layer quilt top, batting and backing and baste with safety pins.


step twelve:
Quilt as desired. Trim excess.
*fancy was machine quilted using free motion quilting in a floral/clover pattern.

step thirteen:
Sew 2 ½” binding strips together end to end to form one long strip. Press seams open. Press
strip in half with wrong sides together.
step fourteen:
Using a quarter inch {¼“} seam sew your binding strips to the front of your basted and quilted 
piece with raw edges together. Start along one side leaving a tail of about 6-10 inches. Sew 
along until you reach ¼” from the corner.
step fifteen:
Take your quilt and turn, lift your strip straight up and then bring it back down to align raw edges 
{diagram h}. Continue sewing your binding strips. Repeat for the next three corners.



step sixteen:
When you reach the beginning of your binding, stop sewing and match and trim the two tails of 
binding strip, so it will sit neatly along the quilt edge. Unfold your strips and with right sides 
together, sew your two tails together {you may need to wrangle your quilt a bit to do this!}.
step seventeen:
Re-fold sewn strip and lay flat against side of your quilt and sew in place.
step eighteen:
Turn binding strip to back-side of your quilt and hand-sew in place.
* in the case of machine binding complete all above steps, however sewing the binding strip to the BACK of the quilt in step 14, and turning to the front of the quilt, and machine stitching in step 18.



One lap quilt measuring about 60″ x 75″.
*larger quilt tops can be made by making more strip set mini-blocks in steps four to seven. 

Keera Job
{www.livelovesew.com.au}
{keera(at)livelovesew.com.au}

3D Pinwheel Throw Quilt


Hello Moda Bake Shop readers! I’m Anjeanette and I am so happy to be back with you, sharing this adorable new quilt. Come visit me anytime at byAnjeanette.blogspot.com. When I saw this new line from Bonnie and Camille, I knew it had to be made into something fun and whimsical.  Enter a 3 dimensional pinwheel to fit the bill.


1 Fat Eight Stack  
3 3/4 yards Penny White 55065-19
1 yard Penny Lime 55065-13
4 yards Hop Navy 55062-17 (Backing)
1 yard Red 55064-11 (Binding)


Starch your fabric first. We are sewing on the bias and it will help to keep the fabric stabilized. We are also going to end up with a really dense seam in the pinwheel with all the layers of the fabric. Normally I use a scant seam, or skinnier than 1/4”. But for this throw, I suggest to sew with a larger than 1/4” seam. The seams in the pinwheel have many layers of fabric and I find that it is easier to get a nice flat pressed seam when there is more of a seam to press.

From the white, cut:
10 WOF (Width of Fabric) X 6″
               Sub cut into 6″ squares total of (56) 6″ squares cut in half diagonally

14 WOF X 5″
               Sub cut into 5″ squares  total of (112) 5″ squares 

 From the green, cut:
5 WOF X 6.5″
                 Sub cut into 6.5″ squares total of (28) 6.5″ squares

From the fat eight stack you will need to cut (28) 9″ squares.

There are two blocks for this throw, a square in a square, and a dimensional pinwheel.

To make the square in a square block you will need four white triangles and one green square.

Fold your green square in half lengthwise and then again in half width wise. Press to get your center markings. Alternately, you could pin the center of each side if you prefer. Fold your triangles in half and press.

  Matching your pressed lines, match two side triangles to the sides of the square and pin in place.

Sew side seams and press towards the white.

Flip over and trim off the excess corner points.

Layer the last two triangles, sew and press towards the white again.

Trim your square to 9 1/2” There shouldn’t be much to trim off.

Make 28 of these blocks.

To make the dimensional pinwheel block:

Start with two contrasting 9 X 9” squares cut from your fat eight stack. Layer together, right sides together. Draw diagonal lines from corner to corner in an X and then from top to bottom and side to side like a +. Sew 1/4” on both sides of the line from the X. With your rotary cutter, cut directly on the lines of the + from top to bottom and then from side to side. Then cut along the diagonal lines.

You just made 8 HST or Half Square Triangles.

Open up your squares and then fold in half with wrong sides facing each other. Topstitch along the folded edge with about 1/8” topstitch. This little step is going to help keep the shape of the pinwheels once you wash your quilt. Trim off the dog ears or the overhanging corners.

To make your pinwheel block, take four white 5” squares and two sets of triangles.

 

Layer your triangles on top and in the corner of each white square. The right side of the white squares should be facing up/the triangles. Pin the right side. Take the bottom of the triangle and fold it over to the right lower corner. Topstitch with 1/8” seam along the right side and the bottom of the triangle.

Press. I found that I wanted my pinwheel pressed quite flat because it helped when I got to the part with all the layers of fabric.

Lay out your four squares to make the shape of a pinwheel.

Sew the top two pieces together (remember we are using a seam that is just a bit bigger than a regular 1/4” seam here.) Press the seam open. It is going to be a chunky/thick seam.

Sew the bottom two squares the same way and press well.

 
Layer your top and bottom together, right sides facing. I placed a pin in the center of the top seam and matched it with the bottom seam to hold it in place. Because of the bulk of the fabric, clips like the one you would use to bind, are very helpful to hold the layers together. 

Sew and press open.

 

Make 28 of these blocks.

Alternate your square in a square blocks with pinwheel blocks. Sew into rows. Sew rows into your top.

Quilt and bind.

*Because of the dimension of the pinwheels, when you are quilting you may find it easier to pin each pinwheel flap back.

 

My boys think this is the perfect quilt to lay on the grass and read. I think it is the perfect quilt for a picnic.

Either way, I think the dimension of the pinwheel makes for a fun quilt.

If you decide to make one too, please remember to share it with me. I’d love to see it!

I couldn’t resist these piggies next to the dimensional pinwheel. Makes me so happy.


A roughly 63” X 72” Epic Summer 3 Dimensional Pinwheel Throw

Anjeanette Klinder
{byAnjeanette.blogspot.com}

Jumping Jacks Quilt


Once upon a time there were five happy little blocks with happy red centers and happy red diamonds at their corners. They stood out from their neighbors, and were nicknamed “jumping jacks.”


Finished size is 59.5 x 59.5″ Fabrics used are Happy-Go-Lucky by Bonnie & Camille

  • One jelly roll (Forty 2.5″ x WOF strips)
  • 1-3/4 yd neutral fabric (penny gray)
  • 3/4 yds red fabric (penny red)
  • 3/4 yds border fabric (mum red)
  • 2/3 yds binding fabric (garden navy)
  • 64 x 64″ cotton batting 
  • 4 yds back fabric (bella solid in scarlet)


You will need 36 of the 40 jelly roll strips. Sub-cut each strip into two 2.5 x 5″ strips, and two 2.5 x 9″ strips.

From the [penny gray] neutral fabric, you will need to cut the following:

  • Four strips 5″ x WOF. Sub-cut each strip into 5 x 5″ squares, eight per strip until you have 31 total. 
  • Six strips 2.5″ x WOF. Sub-cut each strip into 2.5 x 9″ strips, four per strip until you have 24 total.
  • Eight strips 2.5″ x WOF. Sub-cut each strip into 2.5 x 2.5″ squares, sixteen per strip until you have 128.

From the red fabric, you will need to cut the following: 

  • One strip 5″ x WOF. Sub-cut the strip into 5 x 5″ squares until you have 5.
  • Five strips 2.5″ x WOF. Sub-cut each strip into 2.5 x 2.5″ squares, sixteen per strip until you have 80. 

Referring to the picture below, organize all fabric into two piles:

  • Pile one: 31 jelly roll strips with the [penny gray] neutral blocks/strips.
  • Pile two: 5 remaining jelly roll strips with the red blocks. 

Next, use a pen and ruler to mark a diagonal line on the back of all 2.5 x 2.5″ neutral and red squares.

*Use 1/4″ seam allowance for all sewing unless otherwise stated. “Jumping Jacks” Blocks: From “pile two,” you will need one red 5″ block and one sub-cut jelly roll strip (two 2.5 x 5″ strips and two 2.5 x 9.5″ strips). Attach the 2.5 x 5″ strips to the top and bottom-sides as indicated below. Press the seams.

 

Sew the 2.5 x 9″ strips to the sides and press the seams. Repeat to make five red-centered (“jumping jacks”) blocks.

Repeat with the neutral 5″ blocks and their (31) sub-cut jelly roll strips from “pile one.”  Arrange ALL blocks into six rows with six blocks per row. Once the arrangement is to your liking, retrieve the marked 2.5 x 2.5″ RED squares only.  Snowball Blocks:  Place one red 2.5 x 2.5″ square in each corner of the red-centered (“jumping jacks”) blocks. Place more in the corners of neighboring blocks that touch a “jumping jacks” block; the marked lines will form a diamond shape in each corner. Pin each red block firmly in place.

 

Before you begin stitching these blocks in place, you may also want to take a picture (or otherwise notate) your block arrangement so you won’t forget where anything goes. I usually just snap a picture with my phone’s camera.

Pin [penny gray] neutral 2.5 x 2.5″ squares in any corners that do not have a red one. Make sure the marked lines are oriented as indicated below (to form diamonds at the corners with neighboring blocks) and pin in place.

Stitch along the marked lines pinned in each corner.

Trim 1/4″ seam allowance at each corner. Open and press to form the finished snowball block.

Arrange all snowball blocks back into their designated places.

Sew the quilt-top in place by sewing the blocks into rows, then the rows together–lining up the seams and pinning in place beforehand. Press the quilt-top.

Retrieve the 2.5 x 9″ [penny gray] neutral strips and four 2.5 x 2.5″ squares. “Frame” the quilt with one neutral border strip next to each outside block with a 2.5 x 2.5″ square in each corners.  NOTE: The border is broken up into strips to accommodate the completion of any red diamonds in the corners of “jumping jacks” blocks that may be on the outside of the quilt-top arrangement.

Finish any incomplete red diamonds by pinning red 2.5 x 2.5″ squares (right sides together) onto the neutral border strips where necessary.

Stitch along the marked lines.

Trim 1/4″ seam allowance; open and press.

Sew the border strips together in order (omitting the 2.5 x 2.5″ corner blocks of the border) and add to the top and bottom of the quilt-top first.

Repeat to add the borders to the sides, this time including the 2.5 x 2.5″ border blocks at the beginning and end of each strip.  Now we are going to add a second border. You will need the border fabric cut into six strips 4″ x WOF. Piece together 1-1/2 strips per side.

Add the top and bottom border pieces first; add the sides and square up before basting onto your batting and back fabric.

Be sure to insert safety pins to prevent the layers from shifting during the quilting process.

Quilt as desired. I did some freemotion squiggles.

After the quilting is completed, trim away the batting and back fabric. Square up the quilt.

Vanessa's Jumping Jacks quilt tutorial

Bind as desired. I cut seven strips 2.5″ x WOF and pieced on the bias.

 One very happy 59.5 x 59.5″ lap quilt.

Vanessa's Jumping Jacks quilt tutorial
Vanessa's Jumping Jacks quilt tutorial

Vanessa's Jumping Jacks quilt tutorial

Vanessa Goertzen
{lellaboutique.blogspot.com}


UPDATED: 1/29/2014

Happy Go Round Quilt


Hi, Moda Bake Shop readers! It’s Lisa Calle from Vintage Modern Quilts, sharing a project I love to pieces. You may have already seen a sneak peek of this quilt if you were at QuiltCon in February. I’m happy to share the finished product here today. I love this quilt! Happy Go Lucky from Bonnie and Camille is on the way to becoming one of my all-time favorite lines. The colors, the happy florals, the vintage look, the perfect tiny dots…it’s got everything.

This is an improv style quilt so you may use more or less fabric than I did…It all depends on your cutting and piecing. I used Bella Solids layer cakes in my quilt top but I’ve given an option below for using yardage instead. Just know that you will have more cutting involved if you opt for yardage.

 
1 Layer Cake (Happy Go Lucky by Bonnie and Camille)
3 coordinating solids layer cakes (I used Robin’s Egg, Blue, and White. NOTE: You will only use a fraction of these layer cakes so you’ll have plenty left for a second quilt or another project. I used 16 Blue, 20 Robin’s Egg, and 12 White.)
OR 
3.5 yards of coordinating solids
1/2 yard binding (Happy Go Lucky 55067 11)
4 1/8 yards backing (mine is pieced using Happy Go Lucky 55063 22 and 55061 17)


Curve Master 1/4″ Presser Foot (This foot is great for all curved piecing.)


All seams are 1/4″. Read instructions before beginning. I recommend practicing on some scrap fabric before you cut into your layer cake. Unfinished block size is 9″.

1. If you are working with yardage for your solids, cut into 10″ squares. You will need a total of 48 ten-inch squares from your solids.

2. Select four layer cake squares – a mix of prints from the collection and some solids. I went by the general rule of two solids, two prints.

3. Layer your four layer cake squares into a neat pile, making sure the edges are lined up on all sides.

4. Using a rotary cutter with a fresh blade, cut a freehand arc across your stack of layer cake squares. Go slowly and use firm and even pressure Try to make a wide curve. The tighter angles are going to be harder to sew. For a video tutorial showing exactly how to cut and piece these improv curves, click {here}.

5. Mix and match your inner and outer curves. Line your inner curve edge up with the outer curve edge, right sides together.
 

*A note about pinning* You do not need to pin these curved seams. Starch your edges to keep the bias seams in check and/or use the curve master foot.*

Sew a 1/4′ seam along the curve, gently guiding the fabrics together under the foot of your sewing machine. The key is to guide the fabric. No tugging or pulling as that will distort your seam.

5. Press light to dark. Repeat sewing and pressing process for your other fabrics in the stack.

6. Once you’ve sewn all four sets, check them for size. Set aside any blocks that don’t quite measure 9″ square. These are your A blocks. Trim your other blocks to 9″ square and set into your finished pile. These are your B blocks.

Note: These blocks do have a right and a wrong way. It’s easy to tell if  you’re working with prints, but solids can be trickier. If your block ends up like this, you’ve sewn it the wrong way. Just seam rip (gently), flip the inner curve, and sew again.

I made this block just to show you guys. I would so never make a block like that. Never. Ever. 😉

7. Repeat this process until you have 64 blocks total: A and B blocks.

8. Take your stack of A (not quite 9″ blocks) and repeat the curve step from above, but this time just choose one layer cake. Set it underneath your pieced block and shift it to enlarge the block. Cut a curve just like before. Sew your two pieces together and press light to dark. Square up to 9″.

Alternatively, if you are a master curve piecer and didn’t have any blocks that didn’t make it to 9″ (go, you!),  take half of your perfect blocks and add a second curve to them using the process outlined above. This quilt will look nice with just one curve per block, but the second curve adds a lot of movement throughout the quilt. I made several blocks that have up to four curve in them.

9. Assemble your quilt top in a 8×8 block layout. I sewed mine in sets of 4 blocks at a time so I could take extra care matching the points where the four blocks meet in the center of the broken circles. Don’t worry too much about fabric placement. Just have fun with it! There are lots of options for setting the blocks in this quilt. I made another version using Aspen Frost by Basic Grey:

{Note: the Aspen Frost version is smaller}

10.  Baste, quilt, and bind as desired.


One happy and fun 68″ x 68″ quilt.

If you make one, please add it to the Moda Bake Shop {Flickr} group. Don’t forget to stop by my blog and say hi. 

Lisa Calle
{www.vintagemodernquilts.com}

Moda’s New Precut: Honeycombs + A Quilt

 


Hello! My name is  Lissa and I work for Moda, so conveniently I go by modalissa. I am super excited to share a bit of information about the newest Moda precut – Honeycombs. This blog post does have a finished quilt but really I wanted to share with you some tips and techniques on how to machine
piece honeycombs together. I can’t wait to see you create your own hexie-pieces. (that stands for hexagon masterpieces).

 
{This quilt features Moda’s 6″ laser-cut Hexagons, that we’ve named Honeycombs. Each package contains 40 pieces.}
1 pk.Robin’s Egg 9900HC85
1 pk.Silver 9900HC183
1 pk.Admiral Blue 9900HC48
2 pks White 9900HC98
 Backing and binding 2 1/3 yds of Happy Go Lucky, stock # 55067-17


Marking tool of your choice.
{I used Sewline Fabric Mechanical Pencil Trio 7021. I love this because it is three tools in one, including a black 0.9-mm lead for marking light fabrics, white 0.9-mm lead for marking dark fabrics, and a 1.6-mm tracing roller ball point to trace or transfer patterns. I also tried out the Pilot Frixion pen for my demo and it works very nicely.}

 bella021713_8

Each of the honeycomb packs is backed with a piece of template plastic that has pre-drilled holes 1/4″ from corner edges. This is the perfect to mark the stop and start when sewing the honeycombs together by machine. The Pilot Frixion pen disappears when ironed so I thought I would give the Sewline pen a try. It seemed to work very nicely. I am no expert on pens and chemicals but I did have good results.

bella021713_9 

These hexagons are laser cut. This does leave a slight browned edge that shows up more on lighter fabrics. The nice thing about this is that it lightly singes the edges of these fabrics and helps prevent fraying and stretching. All my brown edges disappeared when I washed the final quilt.

bella021713_10 

 I used bright thread to make it easier to see the actual steps.

Place two hexagons right sides together, lining up one of the edges. Sew from dot to dot, back stitching at each dot. If your machine stitches in place, do that instead of back stitching. A few stitches is all it takes to keep the ends from coming loose as the additional hexagons are added. If you have had experience doing set in seams then this process will be a breeze. I do not press as I go because I want the seam allowances to be flexible so I can “push” them out of my way as I continue to add hexagons.

bella021713_12 

Add the third hexagon, and start sewing from the outer edge into the center, pushing your seam allowance away so the seam allowance remains loose. Machine piecing hexagons can be done in sections or in rows.
I was designing the quilt as I went along so I did not sew the quilt in rows for this demo. I made my super duper large hexagon flower first and then decided to add a bed of white hexagons. This is when I discovered it is a bit less cumbersome to design your quilt and construct it in rows.  I have attached a {graph page} for designing your color placement before you start. There is also a copy in the Printer Friendly Version at the end of this post.
 bella021713_14

This is the back side of the hexagons when one side of the third piece is added. This technique takes practice but after you have done a few of them you won’t even have to mark your dots.

 bella021713_16 

Repeat this process by sewing from the outside edge into the center. Continue working in sections, finger pressing as you go. These big hexagons  make the quilt get big fast.

bella021713_17

This is the back of my section. Butting the seam allowance right up to the dot allows you to finger press the seams in any direction.  Do not press your seam allowances open. This will help at the center sections to cover any pin hole or small gaps. If you sew past the dot, a small pucker will show up on the front. This is easy enough to fix by ripping out {gently} 1 or 2 stitches.

Now you are ready to press the seam allowances. They tend to naturally fall in one direction making it easy to press. If you are piecing in sections, press each section once complete. If you are piecing in rows, press once you’ve sewn at least two rows together.

Have fun creating your own Honeycomb projects!

Here is a {pdf of tips and graph pad} for sewing with Moda’s newest precut, Honeycombs. I hope you have fun creating all kinds of projects with this yummy cut of fabric. 

 
 One honey of a quilt! It measures 44″ x 62″

This was such a fun project to make. I couldn’t decide how to quilt it so I sent it to  Crystal Zagnoli at The Quilted Cricket in Colorado and asked her to do some simple loop-dee-loops. I love how it turned out. Many of the Moda designers will be introducing Honeycombs and patterns, so be on the lookout for all kinds of new projects for this classic shape.

bella021713_4

Lissa Alexander
{modalissa.blogspot.com}