Aster Manor Pillow


by Roslyn Mirrington of Bloom
The muted prettiness of ‘Aster Manor’ by 3 Sisters combined simply with linen, pearl buttons and ric-rac make up this dreamy little pillow.
Finished size: approximately 12″ x 20″

1 x ‘Aster Manor‘ by 3 Sisters honey bun (3990HB)
0.5 yard linen or linen/cotton blend fabric
1 x rectangular cushion insert, 30 x 50 cm (12″ x 20″)
7 x cream pearl buttons (I used Moda’s ‘Bag of Buttons’)
0.75 yard ivory 0.5″ cotton ric-rac
lightweight fusible fleece (I used Vilene H 630 made by Freudenberg)
piping cord
ecru DMC embroidery floss

From the fusible fleece, cut a rectangle 12.5″ x 20.5″.
From the honey bun, choose 7 strips. From each of these strips, cut a 12.5″ length.
Lay the rectangle of fusible fleece on ironing board, with fusible side up. Lay the first fabric strip along one short edge of the fleece, and fuse.
Lay the second strip on top of the first strip, right sides together. Pin in place.
Using a 0.25″ seam, stitch the strips together to the fusible fleece.
Open the strips, & flip the second strip onto the fusible fleece and press.
Cut a 12.5″ piece of ric-rac. Pin the ric-rac in place on the second fabric strip.
Sew ric-rac in place using a 0.25″ seam.

Lay the third strip on top of the second strip & ric-rac, right sides together. Pin in place.

Flip the pillow cover over. Stitch the third strip in place by stitching just inside your previous row of stitching.

This ensures that the row of stitching holding the ric-rac in place does not show when you flip the third strip back and press.
Using this method, add a further 4 fabric strips to the pillow panel, with a second row of ric-rac between the 3rd and 4th fabric strips.

Making the piping
Cut a 12.5″ strip from one of your honey bun strips. Press the strip in half lengthwise, wrong sides together. Place the piping cord along the fold on the inside of the strip. Pin.
Using a zipper foot, and moving your sewing machine needle far to the right, sew a row of stitching as close as you can to the piping cord.
Trim the fabric strip to 0.25″ from your stitching line.

Pin your piping to the last fabric strip of your pillow panel.

Again, using the zipper foot, stitch the piping to the pillow. Try to stitch just inside the previous row of stitching.

From the linen fabric, cut a rectangle 12.5″ x 13.5″. Pin the linen rectangle to the pillow front. Flip the pillow panel over & sew the linen to the panel by stitching along the previous row of stitching which secured the piping.

Press the linen back across the fusible fleece & fuse.


Button embellishment
Seven pearl buttons are hand-stitched on the sixth strip of the pillow top. Place a small pencil mark 1.75″ in from the top and bottom edge. Mark every 1.5″ between.
Using 3 strands of ecru DMC embroidery floss, work a running stitch along the centre of the sixth strip, stopping at each pencil mark to secure a pearl button.


Making the pillow back
Cut one rectangle of linen fabric, 8″ x 12.5″. From a honey bun strip, cut one 12.5″ length. Pin the honey bun strip to the 12.5″ edge of the linen rectangle, with the right side of the strip towards the wrong side of the rectangle – I know this sounds weird, but stay with me! Stitch with a 0.25″ seam.
With the wrong side of the honey bun strip facing up, press 0.25″ seam under.
Fold the honey bun strip back over to the right side of the rectangle.

Topstitch this honey bun strip, 1/8″ in from either edge.
Cut another rectangle of linen fabric, 17″ x 12.5″. Turn the 12.5″ end of the rectangle in 1.25″ towards the wrong side and press. Turn in a further 1.25″ to give a double hem. Stitch this hem, 1/8″ in from either edge.
Lay the two back rectangles, with the honey bun strip trimmed piece overlapping the hemmed linen piece. Overlap the rectangles until the total width is the same as your pillow front. Pin in place.
Stay-stitch the backing pieces together at the overlap, top and bottom, using 1/8″ seam.

Making the ties
Choose a honey bun strip for your ties, and cut into four equal lengths (approximately 10.5″ to 11″). Fold each strip in half lengthwise, right sides together and press. Stitch across one short end and along each long side using a 0.25″ seam. Turn the tie right side out and press. Make four ties.
Pin two of the ties to one side of the back panel, centred at 4.25″ and 8.25″ from the top. (The raw edge of the tie will be against the ruler).
Stitch across the end of the tie to secure.
Fold the ties back over themselves and pin.
Topstitch the ties in place as shown below to enclose the raw edge.
Repeat for all four ties.

Completing the pillow
Place the pillow front and back right sides together. Keeping the ties well out of the way, stitch around the entire pillow using 0.25″ seam. Overlock or zigzag the seam to strengthen if desired.
Turn pillow cover to right side through the back opening. Put cushion insert inside cover and your pillow is complete. The front side should look something like this:
The back of your pillow should have two nifty little bow ties.
Each honey bun will yield approximately 10 of these pillows.

Choc-O-Cherry Turnover Treat


Finished table runner 16″ x 40″

Ten 8″ finished blocks

1 Turnover package of Aster Manor by 3 Sisters (80 triangles)

⅞ yard fabric for backing and binding
20″ x 44″ piece of batting.

1. For each block gather one pair each of matching triangles, and four single triangles – for a total of 8 triangles.

2. Slice down the middle of each one of the four single triangles (as shown in photo), for a total of eight small triangles.

3. Assemble center of the block with cut triangles.

4. Square up block to 4½”.

5. Assemble middle sides of the block with cut triangles. Optional: Trim first pair of triangle ends before sewing.

6. Square up block ¼” past the corner of the center block. Use your ruler’s 45° lines as a guide for the first cut.

7. Assemble the outer sides of the block with triangle pairs. Optional: Trim first pair of triangle ends before sewing.

8. Square up block ¼” past the corner of the middle block. Trim all your blocks to be squared up as the same size. Use your ruler’s 45° lines as a guide for the first cut. Your block may be +/- of 8½” after squaring up. What’s important is uniformity of all ten blocks – not the size number.

9. Pair up blocks and join to make rows. Press in alternating directions.

10. Join rows to complete the table runner. Baste, quilt and bind.

11. Eat chocolate. Eat cherries. Tell someone you love them.

Make every day Valentine’s Day,
xo,
Monica

Aster Manor Chenille Cuddler

 


Hello! I’m Julie Geiger, owner of Prairie Point Junction Quilt Shop in Cozad, Nebraska. I’m so excited to be sharing my first Moda Bake Shop Project with you. The very first fabric sales rep that I ever visited with when I opened my shop 11 years ago was Pat Tweedy, from Moda fabrics. Moda has had a special place in my heart ever since. I know you’ll love working with their fabrics just as much as I have.

The Chenille Cuddler is as simple as it is pretty. I just couldn’t resist the gorgeous chenille in this line.
It sure elevates simple squares from blah – to – ta dah!
 
Want it even easier? Visit my shops’ website for kits for this project.

Recipe makes 1 quilt 60″ x 75 1/2″

1 Aster Manor Layer Cake (40, 10″ squares)
*OR you can also use 8 fat quarters PLUS one Aster Manor Charm pack
*See notes in ( ) for cutting instructions if using fat quarters and charms.
1 Yard Aster Manor Crimson Chenille
1 Yard Aster Manor Stone Chenille
7/8 yard stripe for binding
4 yards of 42″ wide backing OR 2 yards of 108″ wide backing
Batting: At least 72″ x 90″
2 skeins of DMC#355 embroidery floss to coordinate with fabrics


Step 1: Select nine of the 10″ squares to make the four-patch blocks.

Step 2: Cut each of the nine squares into four 4 1/4″ x 4 1/4″ squares, for a total of thirty-six 4 1/4″ squares.
(OR – If using charm packs – select thirty-six charm squares to trim to 4 1/4″ x 4 1/4″ squares.)

Step 3: Arrange the 4 1/4″ squares of fabric for the four-patches as desired. Mix and match the fabrics for a scrappy look.

Step 4: Sew two of the 4 1/4″ squares right sides together to form a two-patch unit. Press seams in opposite directions. Repeat to make 9 sets of two units each.

Step 5: Join units together to form a four-patch. Repeat to make nine four-patch blocks. Blocks should measure 8″ x 8″ at this step.

Step 6: Trim the thirty-one remaining 10″ squares down to 8″ x 8″. The most efficient way to do this is to trim a 2″ strip from the side of the 10″ square, then trim a 2″ strip from the top of the 10″ square. This gives you a great set of uniform scraps to use for future projects. (Think “make-your-own-honey-buns”).

(OR if using eight fat quarters, cut each fat quarter into four 8″ x 8″ squares)


Step 7: Get out your fabulous chenille and admire it. (No really – it is that beautiful – you truly must admire it before you cut it into squares).

Step 8: Cut each color of chenille into four 8″ x approximately 41″ strips.

Step 9: Cut each strip of chenille into five 8″ x 8″ squares, for a total of:

Twenty 8″ x 8″ squares of crimson chenille
and Twenty 8″ x 8″ squares of stone chenille

Step 10: Arrange the 8″ chenille squares, the 8″ print squares, and the four-patch units as shown in the two photos below. You will have 8 blocks across and 10 blocks down. My trick for simplifying the planning is to lay out the crimson and stone chenille squares in a grid as shown below. Next place the 9 four-patch units in the designated rows. Now all you need to do is fill in with the 8″ print squares, arranging them as desired.

A little note for those of you that like to follow the recipe just as it is in the book: Keep in mind that the second diagram of the quilt below was drawn on computer before I had the actual fabrics in my hand – so the fabric swatches are for design purposes only and don’t represent the actual placement of those fabrics in my quilt. Refer to the photo of the “real” quilt above if you like how it looks and don’t want to stress over fabric placement. Whew! I feel much better getting my disclaimer all out in the open!

Step 11: Sew the blocks into rows, then join the rows together. It is helpful to press all seams towards the print blocks as the seams will naturally want to fold away from the chenille fabrics.

Step 12: Layer the backing, batting, and quilt top.

Step 13: Use six-strands of embroidery floss to tie a knot through all layers at the corner of each block. It will be easiest to run your needle through the corners of the chenille fabrics as all seams should be pressed away from these blocks. Take a stitch through all layers of quilt, batting, and backing. Tie floss in a double knot.

Step 14: Cut either bias or straight grain binding, depending on the look you want. I cut 2 1/2″ wide strips from a chocolate brown stripe to total at least 300″ in length. Fold binding in half lengthwise, with wrong sides together. Press. Sew raw edges to quilt, mitering corners. Bring folded edge to back of quilt. Hand tack in place.

Step 15: Cuddle up on the couch and enjoy browsing through the other Moda Bake Shop patterns to plan your next project.

One cuddly quilt: 60″ x 75 1/2″

Feel free to e-mail me at prairiepointjunction@yahoo.com if you have any questions. Please put “Moda Bake Shop” in the subject. Hope you enjoy this simple pattern that showcases my favorite chenille fabric ever.

Chair Scarf



Moda Petit Four sku#PFBOX

• or an Aster Manor charm pack
• 1/2 yd. backing Aster Manor sku# 12019 12 Sommerset Pink
• 1/4 yd. binding Aster Manor sku# 3908 36 Wildflowers Crimson
• Clover small 1 1/4 inch yo-yo maker or template
• basic hand sewing supplies, needle, thread, thimble

•When I started this project I intended to use it on one of my side tables as a table topper…until I finished it. I layed it across my new desk chair before I set out to take the final pictures. I liked the way it looked sooo much that, that is where it will stay. It transformed into a ‘Chair Scarf’.

•To start this project select 49 squares from your Petit Four. A petit four has 2 fabric lines with 120 – 2.5 inch squares of each line. I chose Aster Manor and separated my squares by color first. If you are using charm packs, cut your chosen fabrics into 2.5 inch squares and follow directions as listed.
•Center Squares:
20 light creams
13 reds
12 pinks
4 yellows
•Yo-Yo Border:
35 browns
17 reds
4 yellows
•Carefully arrange your squares to form the pattern shown above 7 X 7.


•I flipped row 2 onto row 1 and pinned them.
•Leave the rest of your rows on the cutting mat.


•Sew Row 1 and Row 2 together.
•Do not cut the thread in between the squares.
•Iron them open.


•Lay rows 1/2 on the cutting mat checking the placement of your pattern.

•Flip Row 3 onto Row 1/2 and pin.

•Sew Row 3 to Row 1/2.
•Again, do not cut threads
•Iron open and continue to add rows in the same manner for the entire top.

•It will look like this. All squares are sewn into rows.

•Now take Row 1A and flip it onto Row 2A and pin.

•Notice I still haven’t clipped threads.
•Continue sewing the rows together.
•Here is row 1A sewn to new row 2A
•Make sure you pay close attention to the direction of the seams to ensure they are nested from row to row to reduce bulk.
 
• Layer the batting, backing and center top and machine quilt. I chose a meander with a flower and free motion quilted my project. If you are new to quilting, try a straight stitch in the ditch, or diagonal lines through each square.

•Add single fold binding…


•And finish binding the center.

•Make 56 Yo-Yo’s using either the Clover green yo-yo maker or the template provided. The yo-yo’s should finish to 1 1/4 inches.

I hope you picked up one tip from my tutorial and that you will be inspired to make a table topper for your table or chair scarf for your sewing room or desk. In fact I can see this project made with many other Moda fabric lines! The possibilities are endless..in fact maybe I should make one for every season!!
Thanks, Vickie E

Yo-Yo Border:

35 browns
17 reds
4 yellows

• Here are the yo-yo’s laid out for placement.

•Begin by stitching yo-yo to yo-yo with a whip stitch, forming rows.

•For best results I stitched 15 yo-yo’s together, then,13, 13 and 15.

•Once the rows are stitched, pin the yo-yo strip right sides together to the quilted center as shown.
•Stitch each yo-yo onto the binding.

• Continue adding the strips/sides to finish.

16.5 X 16.5 inch chair scarf or table topper…

Jelly Roll Cover Up


Like so many quilters today, I have an extension table attached to my sewing machine. So I designed a sewing machine cover using a Jelly Roll that can be adapted to fit any machine with or without an extension table.

While my sewing machine is average in size, every machine has different measurements so please measure your sewing machine before you cut your strips.

Featured Fabric Collection – Aster Manor by Three Sisters for Moda

One Moda Jelly Roll
3/4 yard backing
20” by 34” batting

1/2 yard binding
Six buttons

After measuring my sewing machine from end to end to determine the number of strips required, I chose 8 Jelly Roll strips which when sewn together make 16 ½”. Depending on the size of your sewing machine you may need more or fewer strips for your cover. Measure across the top of your sewing machine to see if 16 ½” will cover it nicely.
Now you will need to measure how long the strips should be for your sewing machine. Measure from the tabletop over the high point on your machine and back down to the tabletop. For my machine, two measurements were required since I have an extension table. I cut five strips 22 1/2” long and three strips 31” long. I sewed the 8 strips together, and then sandwiched them with batting and backing and quilted a little stipple.

Trim away the excess batting and make bias binding to bind the Jelly Roll Cover Up.
To make the ties, cut two 10” strips from each of 6 different Jelly Roll strips.

Organise them into six sets of two strips. Place each set right sides together and sew ¼” around the edge, rounding the corners and leaving a 2” opening on one of the long sides. Turn them right side out through the 2” opening and press. Whip stitch the openings closed.
Place the Jelly Roll Cover Up over your sewing machine and position and pin the ties in place. Pin one set of ties on the front end and two at the back end. Attach the six ties in place, securing each of them with a button.
I hope you like this fun little project. Remember to measure your machine carefully to be sure you have the correct measurements.
Please come visit my blog and website to see all the new designs being created at The Pattern Basket!
Jelly Roll Cover Up designed by Margot Languedoc

Scrap Bag Baby



I am so excited to be posting on MODA BAKE SHOP! I never thought, in a million years, that I would be able to add an “I was featured on Moda Bake Shop” button on my little ol’ blog. But here I am! Come visit me at my blog: CrazyOldLadiesQuilts.blogspot.com


– 1 ‘Scrap Bag’ from Moda
– 1/2 yd. coordinating fabric for the border
– 1/2 yd. coordinating fabric for the Binding
– 1 2/3 yd. fabric for the back

(required yardage for the border/binding/back may vary depending on contents of your Scrap Bag)


-Open your scrap bag and dump out the contents.

-They’re ususally rolled together nice and neat, but I fluff mine up so I can get a good idea of the fabric contents.

-Take each strip and fold in half lengthwise.

-Line up the selvage side.

-Use a c-thru ruler and rotary cutter to trim the strip so that it is the same width the entire length.

-It doesn’t matter what the width is, they will all vary.

You just want a nice, even strip.

-Do this for all the strips.

-Choose two strips that you want to start with.

-Lay the strips next to eachother, right sides up, selvages to the right.

-Next, move one strip so that it’s selvage is overlapping the raw edge of the other strip by 1/2″ (About the width of the selvage itself.)

-Sew the strips together by top-stitching just less than 1/4″ from the outside edge of the selvage.
-I would recommend using pins to ensure a straight connection.
(I didn’t use pins and my quilt top got a little lopsided.)
-Don’t worry if the strips aren’t the same length- we’ll take care of that later.
-Don’t be too concerned with seam allowance on the top because the selvages won’t fray.

-But it is a good idea to check the back every once in a while to make sure you’re including enough of the raw edge from the other strip inside the seam.

-Continue adding strips until all the strips are used.

ISN’T IT CUTE!?

-Press your quilt top, then fold in half width-wise

(So all of your strips are running left to right).

-Use your c-thru ruler and rotary cutter to trim the sides of the quilt so that all the strips are the same length and the sides of the quilt are straight.

Now it’s time for the border!

-Use a measuring tape to measure the length of your quilt.
-Take this measurement from the center of the quilt.
-This measurement will tell you how long to cut your SIDE borders.

-Cut your border strips into 4 1/2″ widths.
-The length of my quilt was 41″, so I cut (2) 4 1/2″ strips to the length of 41″.
-Cut (2) of your strips to the length of your quilt.

(If the length of your quilt is longer than the length of your strips, you will need to piece 2 strips together, then cut them to the length you need.)

-Pin your strips to the sides of your quilt top (right sides together) and sew using a 1/4″ seam.

-Now you’ll need to measure the width of your quilt (including borders).

-Again, take this measurement from the center of your quilt.

-My quilt width (including borders) was 41″.

So again, I cut (2) border strips to the length of 41″ and attached them to the top and bottom of my quilt.

-Attach these border strips to the TOP and BOTTOM of your quilt.

-The quilt top is now complete!

-Quilt and bind using your favorite method.

My finished “Scrap Bag-Baby’ measures 41″ x 49”!
The finished size of your quilt will depend on the contents of your ‘Scrap Bag’ but should be in the Baby Quilt size range.
Thanks!