2012 in Review

Happy New Year quilters and sewers! 2012 was a busy year at the Moda Bake Shop. 199 posts published! Click through to see the top ten projects from 2012.


The Moda Bake Shop’s Top Ten Projects of 2012:

1. Sunbathing Companion by Stella Rutherford | {The Golden Adventures of a Very Dark Horse}


2. Sophie Car Seat Quilt by Jennie Pickett | {Clover & Violet}

3. Cathedral Window Pincushion by Kim Niedzwiecki | {gogokim.blogspot.com}

4. Patchwork Chevron Quilt by Jeni Baker | {In Color Order}

5. Renaissance Waves Quilt by Karin Vail | {cascadequilts.com}

6. Owl Tag Along Toddler Backpack by Angela Pingel |{cuttopieces.blogspot.com}

 

7. Lucky Layers Tiered Dress by Anshu Jain | {Blooms And Bugs}

8. So Soft Washcloths by AnneMarie Chany |{Gen X Quilters}

9. Isosceles Picnic Quilt by Penny Layman | {sewtakeahike}

10. Four Squared Quilt by Polly Monica | {auntpollysporch.blogspot.com}

Wishing you a happy, safe, and sew-ful New Year,

Isosceles Picnic Quilt

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Hello! Penny here from sewtakeahike! Today I’d like to share a tutorial with you for making a HUGE! picnic quilt! I don’t know about you, but when I need a picnic quilt, a little quilt just won’t do. So if you like a big ‘ole quilt when you go on a picnic, this might be just the quilt for you!

1 fat quarter set pezzy prints

1/3 yard each of 6 different coordinating moda solids

1 yard each 9 different pezzy prints

6 yards backing fabric

90″ X 105″ batting

23″ binding fabric, cut into 9 strips 2.5″ wide

Isosceles template (included in Printer Friendly Version)

Coordinating thread

Notes: all seam allowances are 1/4″ unless otherwise specified.

1. Cut 144 triangles from fq set, yardage of pezzy prints, and 1/3 yard cuts of solids.

2. Choose your layout for the triangles, (18 across makes a row) and sew them together in rows.

TIP: to keep the triangles organized and in the order I wanted, I picked them up a row at a time, keeping each triangle in the correct order and then pinned a sticky note to the first triangle with the row number on it.

There will be 8 rows. When sewing the triangles together, the edges of fabric will not meet up as if you are sewing squares together. Instead, you will overlap them like this, and the edges will come together where the 1/4″ seam allowance is.

Then when you sew the next triangle on, make sure the point of the new one is even with the one previously sewn.

3. Sew the 8 rows together, making sure to pin, pin, pin to match up points and edges.

4. Trim the side edges so they are straight.

5. Make your quilt backing. (For my quilt back, I cut out a few extra triangles and used some coordinating moda solids)

6. Make a quilt sandwich and quilt your picnic quilt.

7. Square up your quilt, and make sure to keep the batting and backing scraps to use later to make your handle strap.

8. Make your binding and bind your quilt.

9. Using the backing scraps from squaring your quilt up after quilting, piece together two strips 3″ x 92″

10. Spray-baste a strip of the scrap batting and lay one of the strips onto the batting.

11. Quilt the strip lengthwise with a straight stitch every 1/2″ and then trim the batting even with the strip edges.

12. Layer the quilted strip right side up and the remaining strip right side down and sew together along long edges, stopping and starting sewing 2″ from each end.

13. Turn.

14. Place the right sides of the two ends with no batting together. Pin and sew together. Repeat with the ends that have batting. (This will be fiddly, just go slow).

15. Topstitch along each edge of the strap.

To pack and carry the picnic quilt, fold the quilt lengthwise in thirds.

Then fold each end in about 18″.

Then fold one end again.

Fold the other end over and place the quilt evenly over the handle strap.

Grab the loops and bring them together, folding the quilt in half one more time, and there you have it!

84″ X 101.5″ isosceles picnic quilt with a carrying handle strap!
                  

Penny Layman
{sewtakeahike}

Fairy Tale Sailboats


Hello all you Moda Bake Shoppers! Penny here from sewtakeahike.

Today, I have a real treat for you all, the Fairy Tale Sailboats quilt!

When I designed this quilt, I wanted to incorporate a few different techniques, so to make the quilt, you will be using template piecing, paper piecing, and raw edge applique. I decided on raw edge applique to give the sails a worn look once the quilt was washed (like the sails have been out at sea in the wind and elements).

One of my other goals was to use all of the fabrics from the line. I mostly succeeded, with the exception of being able to use 3 or 4 of them.

AND, this quilt will leave you with scraps, one of my favorite parts! The only fabrics that you won’t have many scraps from is the backing/border fabric, and the binding fabric.

1 fq bundle of fairy tale friends (I used the print 21608 16 from the bundle for the paper pieced squares between the boats)

1/2 yard binding fabric (I used 21605 21)

2 1/2 yards of border and backing fabric (I used 21605 24)

3 yards of background fabric (I used 21098 78)

60X60″ batting

Template for sails (Right and Left), background (Right and Left) … included in “Printer Friendly Version” at the bottom of the post.

16 each paper piecing templates for each mast and boat.

*NOTES*

  • All templates need to be enlarged 200%.
  • As you are cutting fabrics from the background templates, paper pieced mast and boat sections, make sure and add 1/4″ seam allowance around each edge (except the boat template. only add 1/4″ seam allowance to the longest top edge).
  • The template for the paper pieced mast and boat have already been reversed for you.
  • The sails do not need to have a 1/4″ seam allowance added.

1. CUT YOUR FABRIC:

  • Using the background fabric, cut 16 pieces from Right background template and 16 pieces from Left background template, making sure to include a 1/4″ seam allowance around each edge.
  • Using your choice of prints from the fat quarter bundle, cut 16 right and left sail templates.
  • Using the border fabric, cut 6 strips, 3 1/2″ wide.
  • Using the binding fabric, cut 6 strips, 2 1/2″ wide.

2. PAPER PIECE THE BOAT AND MAST SECTIONS:

  • Using the scraps of background fabric from cutting in step 1, 16 different prints from the fat quarter bundle, and the fabric for the square in the middle of the boats, paper piece 16 boat sections, making sure to leave a 1/4″ seam allowance around the longest top edge only.
  • Using your chosen mast fabrics, paper piece 16 mast sections. The shorter end of the mast is the background fabric and the longer end is the mast fabric. Make sure to leave a 1/4″ seam allowance around the edges.

(boats, backgrounds, sails, and masts all in a pretty pile!)

3. SEW THE SECTIONS TOGETHER:

With right sides together, sew a mast section to one of the Left background pieces. Press seam toward the mast.

With right sides together, sew a Left background piece to this section. Press the seam toward the mast.

With right sides together, sew the mast/background section to a boat section. Press the seam towards the boat.

Using a set of sails and one block, place the sails where you would like them and use a few dots of glue to tack them down.

Using a 1/4″ seam, sew the sails to the block.

Trim the block to 12 1/4″, making sure to use the corner of the triangle below the boat as your guide to trim by. (i.e. use the triangle corner to square up the rest of the block, making sure not to trim any of the triangle fabric away so that your square points will all line up when sewing your blocks together.)

*NOTE* I thought this block was going to end up at 12 1/2″ square, however, I couldn’t get a single one of them to be a perfect 12 1/2″, so I adjusted it to 12 1/4″ instead. If you can get your blocks to be a perfect 12 1/2″, then by all means use a 12 1/2″ block instead!

4. ARRANGE AND SEW THE QUILT TOP:

Arrange your blocks to your liking sew them together into groups of 4.

Sew the 4 blocks together and sew the border strips around the outside. (I included the selvedge in the border strips when it was interesting to me.)

5. ASSEMBLE YOUR QUILT

  • Piece the back together using the rest of the backing/border fabric and whichever remaining fq fabrics you’d like.
  • Make a quilt sandwich and quilt your quilt. (For my quilt, I free motion quilted vertical stripes down the sails, waves in the boat sections, clouds and seagulls in the seam area where the groups of 4 boats were sewn together, and waves in the border section.)
  • Bind your quilt.

1 Fairy Tale Sailboats quilt, 55X55.

I hope you enjoy making one for yourself!

Penny Layman
{sewtakeahike}

Strawberries and Sunshine Reversible Rug/Bath Mat

strawberries and sunshine reversible rug bath mat 


Hello you all! I’m Penny of Sew Take a Hike and I am so very excited to introduce you to my first Moda Bake Shop project, the Strawberries and Sunshine reversible rug/bath mat. This project was born out of a need I had to combine the lovely line of Strawberry Fields with a fun polka dot terry cloth towel.

100_0377 rug front

 

½ yard Bella Solids yellow (9900-23), cut into (3) 6″ x WOF strips
1 jelly roll Strawberry Fields (you will have leftovers)
cotton terrycloth towel measuring 24″ x 32″ (I cut up a premade polka dot towel)
cotton batting measuring 24″ x 32″
spray starch
fabric glue
corner template
walking foot


All seams are 1/4″ unless otherwise specified. WOF = width of fabric.
1. Cut 25 of the jelly roll strips in half and set one of the 1/2 strip sets aside for use.
2. Sew the 1/2 strips together, longways, in sets of 5.

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3. Cut each of the panels from step 2 into (8) 2½” wide strips.

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4. Randomly sew three of the strips from step 3 into one strip. Repeat this process so you end up with 12 strips that consist of 15 squares. There will be 4 strips from step 3 leftover.
5. Arrange the 12 strips as you like and sew them together, making sure to pin at the seams so the squares line up.

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6. Print and cut out the template included in the Printer Friendly Version (at bottom of post):
7. Lay the template on one corner of your patchwork rug top and use a rotary cutter to round the corner. Repeat with remaining 3 corners.
8. Using the patchwork oval as a template, lay the patchwork on top of the batting and use your rotary cutter to trim the batting to the same shape as the patchwork oval. Repeat this step with the terry cloth backing.
9. Layer your batting and patchwork together, pin, and quilt as you desire. In this next section, you will make your continuous prairie points.
10. Using one of the 6” x WOF prairie point fabric strips, fold it in half longways and press.
11. Using a ruler and rotary cutter, cut a straight line from the edge of the fabric just to the center fold line every 1.5”, alternating cuts from the top edge of the fabric to the lower edge.

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I used a 2″ wide ruler to do this, lining the previous cut edge up with the 1.5” mark on the clear ruler to make even cuts.
12. Cut off the first 1.5” flap of fabric at the fold line.

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13. Cut off the last two flaps of fabric at the opposite end.

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14. Fold each square in half to form triangles, making sure to fold each one in the same direction and press as you go.

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15. Place a dot of fabric glue on the outside tip of each triangle and fold the triangles in half, bringing the raw edges even with the center of the fabric strip. Press as you go.

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16. Fold the top triangles over on top of the lower triangles, pressing and using spray starch as you go.
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17. Baste stitch ⅛” from the straight edge.
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18. Repeat the steps to make prairie points with remaining two 6″ x WOF strips.
19. Using two full prairie point strips and only 8 points from the third prairie point strip, pin prairie points around the right side of the perimeter of the rug, making sure to line up the prairie points correctly when you end with one prairie point strip and start with another.
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20. Sew the prairie points to the quilted patchwork rug top, sewing very close to the stitching on the prairie point edge.
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21. Sandwich the patchwork rug top right side up and lay the terry cloth right side down and pin.
22. Use a ⅜” seam and your walking foot to sew together, making sure to leave a 4″ hole for turning.
23. Turn the rug and press.
24. Use your walking foot to topstitch 1/8″ around the outside of the main part of the rug, making sure you sew the turning hole closed.
25. Stitch in the ditch on the patchwork side of the rug in 6 lengthways seams to attach the terrycloth to the patchwork front.


One 32″ x  25¼” reversible rug/bath mat

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Penny Layman
{Sew Take a Hike}