Plates for Your Table

This project is my version of a common block called Dresden Plate. I love this traditional block and started thinking . . . wouldn’t this make a wonderful plate charger for my table and that was the start of my inspiration for this month’s Moda Bake Shop project. I really fell in love with Bonnie & Camille’s “Simple Abundance Collection” that’s now available in stores. It looks so great with the colors I have in my home.

This is a HUGE post but there are FOUR projects within this ONE post. I’ve included instructions for each of the four projects. You can make one of the projects or all of them. The projects are listed in the following order within this post:

Part One: Making the Dresden Plate Charger
Part Two: Making the Fat Quarter Napkins
Part Three: Making the Napkin Rings
Part Four: Making the Dresden Plate Table Runner

One Fat Quarter Bundle of “Simple Abundance” by Bonnie & Camille

3 yards of Cream Background Print #55011-19 for Hourglass Units & Quilt Backing
2/3 yards of Cream on Cream Floral #55017-19 for Background Block in Table Runner
2/3 yards of Green & Brown Stripe #55014-13 for Binding
15″ x 15″ piece of felted Cream colored Moda Wool for each 13″ Dresden Plate Charger
Stack-n-Whack 18 degree Fan Ruler by Bethany S. Reynolds
Triangle Square Up Ruler by Eleanor Burns

Cutting Diagram to use for cutting up your fat quarters.

Added Note: Please refer to the cutting diagram below. The measurement for Letter A is typed incorrectly and should read 4″ x 4″ squares. Also the first “A” at the top of the diagram that looks like a rectangle should be marked letter “D” it’s actually leftover. This information will not print in the printer friendly version of the pattern.

2 Small Buttons per Napkin Ring
Coordinating Embroidery Floss for finishing Dresden Plate Chargers

Part One: Making the Dresden Plate Chargers
(Finished Size: 13″ Round)

1. The method for making the Dresden Plate Units is the same no matter what size you decide to make. In this portion of the tutorial I will be using the 3″ x 6″ rectangles for making the Dresden Plate Chargers.

Begin making your Dresden Plate Units by picking out 20 darker fabrics from your Fat Quarter Bundle. Make sure to cut out the strips along the 22″ length of your fat quarter so you will have plenty of room to square up your strips and rectangles.

For Each Plate Charger cut 1 set of 20 rectangles:

Cut each strip 3″ x 22″ Sub cut each strip into three 3″ x 6″ rectangles.

2. Using the Stack n’ Whack 18 degree Fan Ruler you will cut out the 20 spokes for each dresden plate unit making sure to align your ruler on the fabric in between the zero and the 6″ line. Trim off the excess fabric on both sides.

3. Arrange each spoke in the position that you desire or you can follow the layout in the picture.

4. Starting with the first spoke pick up the second spoke and place it underneath and continue around the circle. Take the stack to your sewing machine. Reduce your stitch length to 1.5-2.0 (my machine is preset to 2.5).

5. Take the first spoke and with right sides together fold it in half matching the corners of the widest edge and sew using a 1/4″ seam. This will create the point. Make sure to make long thread tails in-between each spoke as you chain stitch.

6. Create a chain for every 20 spokes. This will help keep it more organized.

7. Clip the corner of each point before turning.

8. Fold the seam open and finger press before turning.

9. Turn the seam inward and use a knitting needle or a blunt point to make it pointed.

10. Make sure the seam is in the center of the spoke before you press.

11. It may be easier for you to lay out your spokes as you sew them together. I like to work in a clockwise direction. Establish a starting point and pick up two spokes. Use a 1/4″ seam to sew the spokes together in pairs. Chain Stitch all the pairs. Make sure you start sewing at the outside edge and sew down toward what will become the inside circle. This will assure that your outer edges match up nicely. Remember the open center circle of your dresden plate will later be covered with an appliqued circle.

12. Chain stitch the pairs into 5 sets of four. Then finish by sewing the sets of four into a dresden plate. Press all your seams in a clockwise direction.

IMPORTANT: leave a long thread tail at the outer sewn edge where you begin sewing. Later the thread will be folded into the seam allowance. This will assure that the seams will stay sewn.

13. Now place your sewn and pressed dresden plate in the center of the 15″ x 15″ piece of felted Moda Cream Wool. Pin in place. Using my walking foot I first stitched in the ditch in-between each spoke and secured or locked my stitch at the beginning and end.

14. Then using an invisible thread and a very narrow hemstitch I stitched around the dresden plate unit. You may also hand applique if you desire.

15. Make a cardboard template and create a curved edge. Then use it to trace the curve around each spoke.

16. Cut the wool along the pencil line around the dresden plate charger.

17. Make a 3″ circle out of cereal box cardboard and then cut a piece of fabric larger @ approximately 3 3/4″. Then sew a running stitch around it and pull the threads tight. Apply a bit of starch and press. Remove cardboard then press again.

18. Center the circle in the middle of your Dresden Plate and machine applique using invisible thread and a small hemstitch. You may also hand applique if you prefer. I finished off the wool edge of my Dresden Plate Charger with a blanket stitch.

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Part Two: Making the Fat Quarter Napkins
(Finished Size: 14 1/2″ x 14 1/2″)

You will need 2 fat quarters (one light & one dark) for each napkin you decide to make.

Cut one fat quarter @ 18″ x 18″ square of Green #55011-15
Cut one fat quarter @ 12″ x 12″ square of Cream #55013-19

There won’t be enough of the same fabric from your fat quarter bundle to make more than one napkin. This section is just to teach you the method I used for making the Fat Quarter Napkins. You will have to buy additional fabric to make more than one fat quarter napkin.

This is the additional yardage you will need to buy if you decide to make the Fat Quarter Napkins:

2 yards of Green #55011-15 fabric will be enough to make eight 18″ x 18″ squares.
1 yard of Cream #55013-19 fabric will be enough to cut nine 12″ x 12″ squares.

1. Before you cut your fabric make sure to starch and press out all of the fold lines.

2. Take your two fat quarters and trim the darker fabric to 18″ x 18″ square. Then take the light fabric and trim to 12″ x 12″ square.

3. Mark the center on each side of the 12″ square and the 18″ square.

4. Match up the centers on ONE side and pin. Also measure where you would stop sewing the 1/4″ seam on each corner of the 12″ square then make a dot as seen in the picture below.

5. Start sewing from the 1/4″ point in each corner in toward the center where you marked the opening. Leave at least a 3 finger size opening to turn the napkin when finished.

6. Press the seam toward the darker fabric as seen below. Then bring the opposite side of the 12″ square up to the opposite side of the 18″ square, matching the centers. Sew from the 1/4″ mark in one corner to the 1/4″ mark on the opposite corner.

7. Again press the seam toward the darker fabric. You have now sewn two sides of the napkin.

8. Now turn the napkin and repeat the process. Match the centers and pin making sure the corners match up at the 1/4″ point as seen in the picture below.

9. Close-up of sewing the seam down toward the 1/4″ point in the corner where you will stop sewing. Make sure to secure you stitches where you finish the seam.

10. By centering the 12″ square in the middle you will have flaps in all four corners that will become the mitered corners.

11. Fold the flaps and finger press the corners.

11. You will sew the finger pressed seam as seen in the picture below. Make sure to insert the needle where you ended the side seams.

12. Close up of the mitered corner.

13. Close up of the trimmed corners. Make sure to press the mitered seams open and clip the fabric close to the sewn seam right where it meets the corner so that it lays flat.

14. Now you are ready to turn your Fat Quarter Napkin.

15. You may sew a straight or decorative stitch around the inside edge of the darker fabric to finish it off the napkin.

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Part Three: Making the Napkin Rings
(Finished Size: 1 3/4″ x 6 1/2″ before buttoned)

1. Cut one piece of fabric and one piece of pellon measuring 4″ x 7 1/2″
2. Baste the pellon on the wrong side of fabric.
3. Fold in half with right sides together then sew a 1/4″ seam.
4. Turn right side out. Press.
5. Turn ends inside tube about 1/2″ and press.
6. Sew closely all around the outside edge.
7. Move your needle to the left a little and sew around the napkin ring again.
8. Sew two button holes and attach two buttons.
9. It’s ready to button up and use as a napkin ring.

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Part Four: Making the Dresden Plate Table Runner
Finished Size: 15 1/2″ x 66 1/4″

Cut the following to make your hourglass blocks for the Table Runner:
This will be enough to make 72 hourglass blocks (you will use 64)

Cut 36 squares measuring 4″ x 4″ from 18 of the darker prints
Cut 36 squares measuring 4″ x 4″ from the Cream Background Print #55011-19

Part A: Making the Hourglass Blocks:

1. Start by taking one light 4″ x 4″ square and placing it right sides together over the 4″ x 4″ darker square. Repeat this process for the remaining squares and then draw a pencil line from the top left corner down to the lower right corner.

2. Sew a 1/4″ seam on each side of the pencil line.

3. Cut along the pencil line of each square.

4. Press the seams to the darker fabric.

5. Pair the half square triangles (HST) with other half square triangles (HST).

6. Place one HST over another HST with right sides together making sure the dark sides are over the light sides as seen in the picture below.

7. Draw another pencil line from one corner across the seam to the other corner as seen in the picture below. Now sew a 1/4″ seam on each side of the pencil line.

8. After sewing a 1/4″ seam on each side of the pencil line you will cut along the pencil line as seen below. You will need to make two piles. One pile for the left half and one pile for the right half. You ask why? Well, when you go to sew the HST’s together you will want the seams to seat into each other and that will give you well matched points and seams.

9. Now comes the pressing. Start with the right pile that you made in step 8. Open the seam and press them in a clockwise direction as seen below. Repeat the process for the left hand pile as seen below. These seams will go in a counter-clockwise direction.

Here’s a close-up of the seam that you will be opening up.

10. Trim each unit Hourglass Unite to 3″ x 3″ using the Triangle square up ruler making sure to keep your left piles together and your right piles together.

11. Arrange and sew the Hourglass blocks from the right hand pile into groups of 4 hourglass blocks per sashing unit and then repeat for the Hourglass blocks from the left hand pile. You will need 16 of these Hourglass Sashing Units for the Table Runner and then press the seams open.

Part B: Making the Dresden Plate Blocks for the Table Runner

You will need 5 sets of 20 rectangles for the Five 8 3/4″ Dresden Plates.

Out of 20 darker fabrics cut the following:

Cut strips @ 2 1/2″ x 22″ then Sub-cut each strip into FIVE 2 1/2″ x 3 3/4 rectangles.

Out of the Cream on Cream Floral #55017-19 cut the following:

Cut a 10 1/2″ x 10 1/2″ background square out of a light print for each Dresden Plate Unit you decide to make. Your table runner can be any size you choose. For example, you could use 3, 4, 5, 6, or 7 Dresden Plate Block Units depending on how big your table is. I am using 5 blocks for my table runner.

Out of the Dark Brown Fabric cut the following:

Cut 12 squares measuring 3″ x 3″ out of the dark chocolate fabric for the posts.

1. Make the 5 dresden plate blocks following the instructions in the Dresden Plate Charger Section in Part One.

2. Then applique the dresden plates to each of the 10 1/2″ x 10 1/2″ background squares. You can hand applique or machine applique using an invisible thread.

3. Take an hourglass sashing unit and sew one to each side of the dresden plate block.

4. Take two 3″ x 3″ chocolate squares and sew to each side of an hourglass sashing unit. Then sew to the the top and bottom of the dresden plate block (refer to table runner pictures).

5. Continue to assemble the Dresden Plate Table Runner according to the layout in the picture below.

One Dresden Plate Table Runner (finished size: 15 1/2″ x 66 1/4″)

Six Dresden Plate Chargers (finished size: 13″ round)
One Fat Quarter Napkin (finished size: 14 1/2″ x 14 1/2″)
Six Napkin Rings (finished size: 1 3/4″ x 6 1/2″ unbuttoned)

I hope you LOVE this fall project as much as I LOVED making it.
ENJOY!

Hugs, Kim Walus

www. bittybitsandpieces.blogspot.com

Garden Fresh Fabric Tomatoes

Oct4

it all started when my friends were talking about making salsa. that’s when i decided to make my own harvest of tomatoes (since i didn’t plant any in my garden this year).

i’ve made a bigger version to make pumpkins check out my blog for instructions.

one layer cake of simple abundance
(and one charm pack of simple abundance optional)

buttons, hot glue gun

first you will need to make a circle. you can use the template (to be found at the end of the instructions) or you can use a bowl with the width of 8 inches.
draw a circle with a fabric marker or a pencil
cut out your circle.
i wanted red, yellow, and green tomatoes (um hello, fried green tomatoes?!) so i picked out a few of each color.
you are going to to a running stitch around your whole circle.
once you have done a running stitch around the whole circle gently pull on your string’s end.
and do so till your circle is almost closed up. make sure you leave enough of an opening so that you can do the next step.
stuff your tomato, i like “cluster stuff” (i got mine at walmart)
gently pull your thread to shut the tomato base. and tie a knot.
now this is optional.
if you want different tomato tops (the leaves) then get yourself a charm pack.

take out your four green squares.

if you do not have a charm pack make sure you pull aside one green layer cake block. and cut in four.
fold in half your charm square. and using the template (make sure it downloads to the right size. template can be found on the same page as the tomato circle at the end of these instructions.)
trace two tomato tops. side by side.
with your sewing machine (while your square is still folded in half) sew on top of your traced lines of the leaves.
cut out your leaf and turn around. the marking should be on the bottom so that you can not see your marker or pencil line.
now if you want the easy way out.
get your hot glue gun and glue the top on.
this is an option.
no one will think any less of you trust me, because it still looks cute.
or if you want the extra steps, get yourself a button and green thread to attach your top on the tomato.
start by pulling the needle through the top all the way through the tomato.
place your button on the bottom and sew up through your tomato.
and gently pull on your thread. this will kind of squish your tomato in the middle.
do this a few times to secure it nicely.
to finish your sewing the top, knot under the leaf so that you don’t see your knot.
to secure it even better, i put a few dabs of hot glue under the leaves.
and now you have a super cute tomato.
one layer cake will make a few tomatoes, but make sure you leave out one green square at least to make 8 leaves.

pdf file download for tomato and top
(make sure you enlarge it to 100%)

instructions and pictures by Vanessa of V and Co.
hope you liked em!

Peppermint Swirl Pincushion

Sep27

(featured in the Simple Abundance Moda ad in the Better Homes and Gardens Christmas Publication)

1 Layer Cake square- red

1 Layer Cake square (or 8″ square)- cream

1 Layer Cake square- aqua

1 Layer Cake square- green

2-3 small red buttons

1 large button

Warm and Natural batting scraps

2 cups crushed walnut shells or other filling

1. Cut two pieces of batting, one 5″ x 10″, and one 5″ x 5″.

2. Fold the red Layer Cake square in half. Place the 5″ x 10″ piece of batting inside. Cut the green layer cake in half to make a 5″ x 10″ rectangle. Fold it in half. Place the 5″ x 5″ piece of batting inside.

3. Print out pattern pieces from this pdf file. Trace 5 swirls onto the red fabric, and 1 of each leaf onto the green fabric with a water soluble fabric marking pen. (Having some problems with the pdf file- it will be up a little later.)

4. With matching thread, sew around each shape on the lines you marked with the pen.

5. Do the same with the leaves. Sew around the whole shape, then add a small line down the center of the leaf, about 2/3 of the length.

6. Remove all the pen lines with a damp cloth. Cut out the shapes 1/8″ from the stitching. (Yes, there will be raw edges!)

7. Using the circle from the pdf, cut one cream circle, one aqua circle, and one circle from your batting.

8. On the cream circle, Fold it in half, then in half again to find the center. Pinch it to make small creases. This will mark your center.

9. Place the swirls around the center, evenly (or not!) and pin them to the cream fabric.

10. Stitch them to the cream fabric, following the stitching on each shape, up one side and down the other. You don’t need to stitch along the outer edge. The swirls will hang over the edges a little bit.

11. If you’d like, you can jazz it up a little bit with your darning foot and a few squiggles.

(here’s a close up of mine)

12. Layer the 3 circle pieces in the following order: Batting, Aqua back (right side up), Cream with swirls (right side down). Pin around the edges. Sew a slightly bigger than 1/4″ seam around the circle through all three layers (making sure to catch the edges of the swirls), leaving a 1″ opening so you can turn it.

13. Trim the swirls so they are flush with the circles. Clip around the shape, every 1/4″, up to the seam, making sure you don’t clip into the seam!!

14. Turn right side out, trim any fraying threads. Fill with crushed walnut shells about 3/4 of the way full. (Use a funnel to do this part, unless you want a big mess!)

15. Stitch the opening closed.

16. Stitch the leaves on in the center, going all the way through to the back of the pincushion.

17. When you get to the back, add the large button, and bring the needle back through to the front. Repeat each time you add a button to the center. When you finish, tie the thread off on the bottom, hiding the extra thread behind the bottom button.

18. Enjoy your sweet little peppermint pincushion. Or give it away and make another. And then another, and one more after that. 🙂

One sweet little Christmassy sewing treat.

And there you have it! Enjoy!

Camille

Simplify (blog)

Thimble Blossoms (website)

‘Simply-a-Bloom’ Quilt

Sep12

by Roslyn Mirrington of ‘Bloom‘

This quilt is perfect for a new quilter as it uses the simplest of block construction & appliqué techniques. It is made with Bonnie & Camille’s gorgeous new line, ‘Simple Abundance‘.

1 x Bonnie & Camille ‘Simple Abundance‘ layer cake (55010LC)

2.5 yards Moda ivory Bella Solid (9900 60)

2/3 yard binding fabric

backing fabric

fusible web

Cutting

Choose two of the lightest prints in your layer cake. Cut each of these prints into 5″ squares to yield eight squares. Seven of these squares will be used as appliqué backgrounds.

From the remaining layer cake squares, cut two 2.5″ x 5″ rectangles, one 5″ x 5″ square and two 2.5″ x 9″ rectangles, as shown in the diagram below.

From the cream fabric, cut:

two strips, 6″ x 90″ (vertical borders)
two strips, 6″ x 55″ (horizontal borders)
six strips, 2.5″ x 55″ (horizontal sashings)
twenty eight rectangles, 2.5″ x 9″ (vertical sashings)

You can download a cutting diagram for the cream fabric here.

Piecing the blocks

Choose seven coloured 5″ squares to use for your appliqué (I chose tone-on-tone prints for this step). Set these squares aside for later.

At this point, you can audition your fabrics by laying them out on the floor until you are happy with the arrangement. Or you can piece the blocks randomly. Your choice!

To make the blocks, stitch two 2.5″ x 5″ rectangles to opposite sides of a 5″ x’5″ square using a 0.25″ seam. Press.

Stitch two 2.5″ x 9″ rectangles to the sides of the block. Press.

Make 35 of these blocks. Include 7 blocks which have a light background square at the centre – these will be your appliqué blocks.

Appliqué blocks

Examine your fabrics closely and choose a simple motif that might be used for your appliqué blocks. I chose the very simple four-petalled bloom from this print:

I scanned the fabric on my computer, selected the shape & enlarged it so that it was 3.75″ square. If you’d like to use this design, a pdf file is available for download here. Otherwise, be brave & choose your own motif that relates to the fabric you are using.

Using a pencil, trace your chosen appliqué motif seven times onto the paper side of fusible web, leaving a 0.25″ space between shapes. Cut out the shapes roughly – don’t cut on the pencil line yet.

Fuse each shape onto the back of your selected fabrics.

Cut out each shape carefully on the pencil line.

Fuse the appliqué to the cream background squares, taking care to centre the motif. Machine appliqué motif onto block using a blanket stitch in a matching thread.

Assembling the quilt top

Arrange the blocks in seven rows of five blocks. Sew the rows together, piecing a 2.5″ x 9″ white strip between each block.

Measure the width of your rows of blocks. Trim the six 2.5″ x 55″ horizontal sashing strips and the two 6″ x 55″ horizontal border strips to this measurement.

Join the rows of blocks, piecing the horizontal sashing strips between each row. Take care to line up the blocks vertically as you join the rows.

Join the horizontal border strips to the top and bottom of the quilt.

Measure the length of your quilt. Trim the 6″ x 90″ border strips to this measurement. Join the borders to the left and right sides of your quilt.

Back, quilt and bind your quilt as desired. I used any remaining layer cake fabrics to piece the backing.

My quilt was beautifully and expertly machine quilted by Belinda Betts of Eucalypt Ridge Quilting. Thanks Belinda! The quilting design incorporates blooms & birds and is called Aves b2b by Anne Bright.

1 x ‘Simply-a-Bloom’ quilt, approximately 62″ x 83″.

Thank you so much to Moda for the opportunity to be involved with Moda Bake Shop. It is an enormous privilege and pleasure to post ‘Simply-a-Bloom’ as my first MBS project!

Enjoy!

Bloom, Australia

Jelly Towels

Aug30

Dish towels and tea towels were all the rage at Quilt Market this year in Pittsburgh. You too can have a new set of dish towels. I am always looking for a quick gift idea and a way to use up those left over Jelly roll strips.

2- 24-27″ Flour sack dish towels, hemmed
2- strips from a Jelly Roll: Simple Abundance by Bonnie and Camille
3 +1/8th yards rick-rack

This is how darling they are when they are finished!

First, press your towels, then cut the Jelly roll strips the width of the towel PLUS 1″
Turn both ends of the Jelly roll strip under 1/2″

Lay the Jelly roll strip 3″ from the bottom of the towel and pin into place.

Lay the rick-rack on the top of the Jelly roll strip along the long edges. Leave a small amount of rick-rack for tucking under at each end.

Sew down the long edges on the rick-rack.

Sew the sides of the Jelly roll strip as you sew around the towel.

Fold the towel into thirds, leaving 3-4″ at the top.

Fold the towel into thirds the opposite way so it is a nice square.

Now, what to do with that little left over piece of Jelly roll that you cut off? If you have a rotary cutter with a pinking blade, cut the left over strip in half length wise.

Like this.

Tie one around a jar or Jelly…or jam.

Or, sew the two together like this to make one long strip.

Fold the towels again in half and tie the strip around them to make a bow.

Keep them for yourself, or give away to your favorite friend or neighbor! I thought seven different colors would be wonderful, one for each day of the week! You could even make an apron from the same line of fabric…then the lady of the kitchen would be so ” in Vogue!”

2 very pretty dish towels.

Binder Cover

Aug20

Wow! This is my first Moda Bakeshop tutorial!

Since it is the beginning of the School year, I decided to do a School type project!

I hope you enjoy this SIMPLE pattern that I use to cover my Inspiration journals.

***********

Feel free to email me if you have any questions: lolaagain@gmail.com

-8 Simple Abundance Layer Cake Pieces

-1 Fat Quarter of Moda Muslin or Simple Abundance

1/2″ Seam Allowance unless otherwise stated in instructions.

Step 1- You will need one of those cheap 1″ binders. This one is a nasty shade of blue that refused to take a good photograph! When opened flat, it will measure about 12″ x 22″

Step 2- Pick out 8 coordinating Layer Cake pieces for this project.

(put the rest of them away until you are finished—to avoid confusion..believe me.)

Select three to become the outside cover, and cut them in half. Set them aside for a minute.

Step 3- Get another of your Layer Cake pieces to use for the spine of the Binder. Cut it into 2 pieces that are 4″ x 6 1/2″. Sew them, RST, at one end. Press seam flat.

Step 4- Get the Front and Back cuts, and sew them together as pictured below. After you have pressed the seams, sew the spine pieces in the center.

Step 5– We are going to make the inside flaps out of the remaining 4 pieces. Take one of the layer cake pieces and cut two 3″ x 10″ pieces. Sew these to the tops of 2 Layer Cake pieces.

Step 6- Choose one of these inside flap pieces to be on the left flap. (The flap that is inside the front cover.) We are going to make a pocket out of the last Layer Cake piece by folding it in half, and pressing it on the fold. Place the raw edges along the bottom.

Step 7- Fold the right edge, of this whole flap piece, under 1/2″ and press. Take the other flap piece, and fold the left edge under 1/2″ and press.

Step 8- Top stitch down these folded edges at 1/8″ and 1/4″. I sewed a pencil/scissors section into the pocket. You can sew as many sections as you need.

Step 9– Lay the outside piece on top of your muslin, and cut it to size.

Step 10- Make a sandwich. Lay the Outside face up, with the flap pieces face down and seams towards the center.

Step 11- Lay the Moda Muslin on top of it all, and sew around the edges with a

1/4″ seam allowance.

Leave a 3″ opening, at the spine fabric, for turning right side out.

Step 12- Clip the corners close to the stitching line, and turn right side out. Press the opening in 1/4″ so that it matches the rest of your seam line. Edge Stitch it closed.

Step 13– Put the cover on your ugly….uninspiring binder.

You will have to bend your binder backwards to get it on both sides.

Step 14– Ta-Dah!!! Look how cute it is! If it is too big, you can top stitch the edges to make it tighter. ( If it is too small….uhhhhh….cram it in there really hard!)