This project is my version of a common block called Dresden Plate. I love this traditional block and started thinking . . . wouldn’t this make a wonderful plate charger for my table and that was the start of my inspiration for this month’s Moda Bake Shop project. I really fell in love with Bonnie & Camille’s “Simple Abundance Collection” that’s now available in stores. It looks so great with the colors I have in my home.
- Part One: Making the Dresden Plate Charger
- Part Two: Making the Fat Quarter Napkins
- Part Three: Making the Napkin Rings
- Part Four: Making the Dresden Plate Table Runner
- One Fat Quarter Bundle of “Simple Abundance” by Bonnie & Camille
- 3 yards of Cream Background Print #55011-19 for Hourglass Units & Quilt Backing
- 2/3 yards of Cream on Cream Floral #55017-19 for Background Block in Table Runner
- 2/3 yards of Green & Brown Stripe #55014-13 for Binding
- 15″ x 15″ piece of felted Cream colored Moda Wool for each 13″ Dresden Plate Charger
- Stack-n-Whack 18 degree Fan Ruler by Bethany S. Reynolds
- Triangle Square Up Ruler by Eleanor Burns
- 2 Small Buttons per Napkin Ring
- Coordinating Embroidery Floss for finishing Dresden Plate Chargers
(Finished Size: 13″ Round)
1. The method for making the Dresden Plate Units is the same no matter what size you decide to make. In this portion of the tutorial I will be using the 3″ x 6″ rectangles for making the Dresden Plate Chargers.
Begin making your Dresden Plate Units by picking out 20 darker fabrics from your Fat Quarter Bundle. Make sure to cut out the strips along the 22″ length of your fat quarter so you will have plenty of room to square up your strips and rectangles.
For Each Plate Charger cut 1 set of 20 rectangles:
- Cut each strip 3″ x 22″ Sub cut each strip into three 3″ x 6″ rectangles.
2. Using the Stack n’ Whack 18 degree Fan Ruler you will cut out the 20 spokes for each dresden plate unit making sure to align your ruler on the fabric in between the zero and the 6″ line. Trim off the excess fabric on both sides.
4. Starting with the first spoke pick up the second spoke and place it underneath and continue around the circle. Take the stack to your sewing machine. Reduce your stitch length to 1.5-2.0 (my machine is preset to 2.5).
5. Take the first spoke and with right sides together fold it in half matching the corners of the widest edge and sew using a 1/4″ seam. This will create the point. Make sure to make long thread tails in-between each spoke as you chain stitch.
11. It may be easier for you to lay out your spokes as you sew them together. I like to work in a clockwise direction. Establish a starting point and pick up two spokes. Use a 1/4″ seam to sew the spokes together in pairs. Chain Stitch all the pairs. Make sure you start sewing at the outside edge and sew down toward what will become the inside circle. This will assure that your outer edges match up nicely. Remember the open center circle of your dresden plate will later be covered with an appliqued circle.
13. Now place your sewn and pressed dresden plate in the center of the 15″ x 15″ piece of felted Moda Cream Wool. Pin in place. Using my walking foot I first stitched in the ditch in-between each spoke and secured or locked my stitch at the beginning and end.
17. Make a 3″ circle out of cereal box cardboard and then cut a piece of fabric larger @ approximately 3 3/4″. Then sew a running stitch around it and pull the threads tight. Apply a bit of starch and press. Remove cardboard then press again.
18. Center the circle in the middle of your Dresden Plate and machine applique using invisible thread and a small hemstitch. You may also hand applique if you prefer. I finished off the wool edge of my Dresden Plate Charger with a blanket stitch.
(Finished Size: 14 1/2″ x 14 1/2″)
- Cut one fat quarter @ 18″ x 18″ square of Green #55011-15
- Cut one fat quarter @ 12″ x 12″ square of Cream #55013-19
- 2 yards of Green #55011-15 fabric will be enough to make eight 18″ x 18″ squares.
- 1 yard of Cream #55013-19 fabric will be enough to cut nine 12″ x 12″ squares.
3. Mark the center on each side of the 12″ square and the 18″ square.
4. Match up the centers on ONE side and pin. Also measure where you would stop sewing the 1/4″ seam on each corner of the 12″ square then make a dot as seen in the picture below.
5. Start sewing from the 1/4″ point in each corner in toward the center where you marked the opening. Leave at least a 3 finger size opening to turn the napkin when finished.
6. Press the seam toward the darker fabric as seen below. Then bring the opposite side of the 12″ square up to the opposite side of the 18″ square, matching the centers. Sew from the 1/4″ mark in one corner to the 1/4″ mark on the opposite corner.
8. Now turn the napkin and repeat the process. Match the centers and pin making sure the corners match up at the 1/4″ point as seen in the picture below.
9. Close-up of sewing the seam down toward the 1/4″ point in the corner where you will stop sewing. Make sure to secure you stitches where you finish the seam.
10. By centering the 12″ square in the middle you will have flaps in all four corners that will become the mitered corners.
11. Fold the flaps and finger press the corners.
Part Three: Making the Napkin Rings
(Finished Size: 1 3/4″ x 6 1/2″ before buttoned)
1. Cut one piece of fabric and one piece of pellon measuring 4″ x 7 1/2″
2. Baste the pellon on the wrong side of fabric.
3. Fold in half with right sides together then sew a 1/4″ seam.
4. Turn right side out. Press.
5. Turn ends inside tube about 1/2″ and press.
6. Sew closely all around the outside edge.
7. Move your needle to the left a little and sew around the napkin ring again.
8. Sew two button holes and attach two buttons.
9. It’s ready to button up and use as a napkin ring.
Finished Size: 15 1/2″ x 66 1/4″
This will be enough to make 72 hourglass blocks (you will use 64)
- Cut 36 squares measuring 4″ x 4″ from 18 of the darker prints
- Cut 36 squares measuring 4″ x 4″ from the Cream Background Print #55011-19
1. Start by taking one light 4″ x 4″ square and placing it right sides together over the 4″ x 4″ darker square. Repeat this process for the remaining squares and then draw a pencil line from the top left corner down to the lower right corner.
8. After sewing a 1/4″ seam on each side of the pencil line you will cut along the pencil line as seen below. You will need to make two piles. One pile for the left half and one pile for the right half. You ask why? Well, when you go to sew the HST’s together you will want the seams to seat into each other and that will give you well matched points and seams.
9. Now comes the pressing. Start with the right pile that you made in step 8. Open the seam and press them in a clockwise direction as seen below. Repeat the process for the left hand pile as seen below. These seams will go in a counter-clockwise direction.
11. Arrange and sew the Hourglass blocks from the right hand pile into groups of 4 hourglass blocks per sashing unit and then repeat for the Hourglass blocks from the left hand pile. You will need 16 of these Hourglass Sashing Units for the Table Runner and then press the seams open.
- Cut strips @ 2 1/2″ x 22″ then Sub-cut each strip into FIVE 2 1/2″ x 3 3/4 rectangles.
Out of the Cream on Cream Floral #55017-19 cut the following:
- Cut a 10 1/2″ x 10 1/2″ background square out of a light print for each Dresden Plate Unit you decide to make. Your table runner can be any size you choose. For example, you could use 3, 4, 5, 6, or 7 Dresden Plate Block Units depending on how big your table is. I am using 5 blocks for my table runner.
Out of the Dark Brown Fabric cut the following:
- Cut 12 squares measuring 3″ x 3″ out of the dark chocolate fabric for the posts.
1. Make the 5 dresden plate blocks following the instructions in the Dresden Plate Charger Section in Part One.
2. Then applique the dresden plates to each of the 10 1/2″ x 10 1/2″ background squares. You can hand applique or machine applique using an invisible thread.
3. Take an hourglass sashing unit and sew one to each side of the dresden plate block.
4. Take two 3″ x 3″ chocolate squares and sew to each side of an hourglass sashing unit. Then sew to the the top and bottom of the dresden plate block (refer to table runner pictures).
5. Continue to assemble the Dresden Plate Table Runner according to the layout in the picture below.
- One Dresden Plate Table Runner (finished size: 15 1/2″ x 66 1/4″)
- Six Dresden Plate Chargers (finished size: 13″ round)
- One Fat Quarter Napkin (finished size: 14 1/2″ x 14 1/2″)
- Six Napkin Rings (finished size: 1 3/4″ x 6 1/2″ unbuttoned)
I hope you LOVE this fall project as much as I LOVED making it.
Hugs, Kim Walus