Owl Pocket Pillow

Hello again my dear friends!! I know it’s been a while since I have posted here but I am back and I am very excited to bring you this adorable little project!! If you don’t know me, I am KarrieLyne Winters and I am owner/designer of Freckled Whimsy. I’d love it if you stopped by to say hello! 🙂

Are you ready to make oodles and oodles of these pocket owls??!! They are a bit addicting… so there you have your warning! Heehee!

Ok, on to fabrics… For my tutorial I used Sweet Serenade by Basic Grey. I would also encourage you to pilfer through your scraps and come up with some lovely combinations, such as maybe a quilt as you go version for the pocket. I think that’d be super cute!

Grab those fabrics and let’s make some owls!

1/2 yard cuts for the body
1 Fat quarter for the front pocket
1 Fat quarter for the back pocket
Scraps for the wings, eyes, and nose
Iron on adhesive that is paper backed, such as Heat’n Bond for face pieces
Your favorite craft stuffing

**Light to Medium weight fusible interfacing ( 3 yards) ** — This is optional. If you are making these for kids who will bury them in the sand box or use them for pillow fights, I suggest using this as a stabilizer to help support the cotton fabric. If you are only using them for decoration, you will not need the stabilizer. A good Medium weight is Pellon 93TD.

1. Print out the PDF that has the templates. Be sure not to reduce the size. Print at 100% and check your 1″ square against a ruler to ensure its truly 1″. If it is not, check your printer settings.

2. Pages 1-4 is the body of the owl. Cut out each piece and tape together making sure to match up outer edges. Don’t worry if inner lines don’t line up right on.

3. Using the 1/2 yard cut, keep wrong sides together and lay the body template on the fabric. Pin around the edges and using a rotary cutter or scissors, cut out the pattern. Unpin. You will have a front piece and a back piece. Set aside.

4. If you are using interfacing, repeat step 3. You will then need to trim 1/2″ away from the edge all the way around. If you don’t, your edges will not fray. Iron interfacing to the wrong side of the body pieces following the manufacturers instructions. Be sure to center the interfacing before ironing it down.

5. Next, cut out and tape the front pocket and back pocket pieces together.

6. For each pocket you will need a fat quarter. Take each fat quarter and fold it in half, wrong sides together and press. Lay the pocket templates on the fabric lining up the fold marks on the template with the fold on the fabric. Pin in place and cut around sides. Do NOT cut the fold and keep the pocket folded.

7. Repeat for interfacing if you are using it. Make sure you trim 1/2″ around this piece too, only don’t cut the fold. Center on the wrong side of the fabric of each pocket, iron down per manufactures instructions.

8. Cut out the wing template and cut from fabric. I used a different fabric for each wing. Feel free to do this or use the same fabric.

9. Take one owl body piece and lay the front pocket on top lining up the edges. Lay the wings down, also matching up the edges. They will match up, just move along the edge until it lines up. Pin all 3 pieces in place.

10. Sew 1/2″ around the edge of each wing going through all layers (wing, pocket, owl body).

11. Cut out face pieces. Trace both eye pieces, two of each, and beak on the paper side of the heat’n bond. Cut out each piece. Do NOT remove paper backing yet. Using the manufacturers instructions, iron the pieces to the fabrics you chose on the WRONG side. Let sit to cool. Cut around pieces to remove excess fabric. Remove paper backing.

12. Lay the beak on the front owl piece that has the pocket sewn on. If you want it centered, fold the body in half to create a guide. Unfold and center beak on this fold mark. Make sure not to put it too close to the top of the head. You need to leave room to sew the edges at a 1/2″ plus room for rounding edges after stuffing is put in. Use my photo as a general guide. Once you have it where you want it, press in place to activate the glue. Zig zag, or use another decorative stitch, around the edge of the beak.

13. Repeat for the “whites” of the eyes using steps in #12 and then for the “pupils” of the eyes. Experiment here before ironing down. Change the placement of the pupils for different emotions. 🙂

14. Take the back owl body piece and the back pocket. Line up the edges and pin in place along the top and center. Keep pins at least 1″ away from all outer edges.

15. Lay the back owl body WRONG side up, then lay the front owl body RIGHT side up and pin all layers together.

16. Starting at the left wing where the stitching begins, 1/2″ seam allowance, take a few stitches, backstitch, and continue sewing around the edge of the owl body keeping a 1/2″ seam allowance. Stop and backstitch when you get to the bottom of the opposite wing. This leaves the bottom open to allow for stuffing.

17. Remove all pins and stuff.

18. Following the same 1/2″ seam allowance, stitch the bottom closed, backstitching at the beginning and end.

19. Maneuver and squish the owl to distribute the stuffing to your liking.

20. Here comes the fun part. Making him scruffy! You can get this look multiple ways. Have your kids throw it around, sleep on it, hug it and squish it and call it George. It will get there. You can also use a bristle brush to coax the fibers apart. My favorite thing to use is a wire bristle cat brush. Cleaned of course. Those wires go to work like crazy and your owl will be scruffy in no time. Just don’t brush too hard if you use one of the wire brushes so you don’t create holes.

One super adorable owl! 😉

Measures about 17″ high and about 13″ wide.

What are you waiting for??? Go make some owls!!

I would love to see the owls you make!! If you use Flickr, you can add the photo to my group HERE. Or just use the hashtag #FreckledWhimsy in any social media. You can also email them to me too!

Thank you so much for looking. I hope you like the project!

Much Love!!!

Karrie Winters
{www.freckledwhimsy.com}

Love Is Timeless

May25

Hello there my Moda Bake Shop friends!! I have another quilt tutorial for you and I hope you love it just as much as I do!

I’ve named this quilt “Love Is Timeless” because it is made out of a lot of hourglass blocks and of course, hearts! I think this line is perfect for this quilt, too!!

I hope you enjoy the tutorial and come visit me, KarrieLyne, over at my blog, Freckled Whimsy, when you’re done reading!

Oh…and guess what??!! The famous Leah over at Burgundy Buttons is kitting this quilt just for you!! Hurry on over to grab yours up! Click HERE to go shopping! 😀

Enjoy…. Love Is Timeless …

2 sherbet pips layer cakes
3/8 yard solid white fabric (border for heart blocks)
1/2 yard for border #1
1 1/4 yard for border #2
5 yards for backing
3/4 yard binding (8 strips 2.5″ x WOF, pieced)
template plastic
Heart Template {included in Printer Friendly Version at bottom of post}

Notes before beginning::
*All seams are 1/4″
*WOF means Width Of Fabric (selvage to selvage)
*LC means Layer Cake
*You will have to piece your backing

1. Choose 6 LC pieces that you want to use for your hearts and set them aside. You will use these for your Four Patch Heart Blocks.

Hourglass Blocks:
1. Choose 60 layer cake pieces and trim them to 9.5”. I trim off the top and right side first just enough to cut off the pinked edge.

2. Turn it 180 degrees and square it up to 9.5”. I put 4 LC pieces together to make trimming go faster. Just be careful to keep them lined up. Best way to do this is to turn your mat when you do the second cut instead of moving your pieces.

3. Pair these up into 30 pairs. Remember to use contrast in choosing your pairs.

4. Take one pair, place them right sides together and sew 1/4” seam along EACH edge of the LC pieces. Basically you are sewing a big square. Be sure to sew edge to edge, remove your piece, and begin again on the next edge. You will have no openings! *Note* Chain piecing works well here too. Sew all of your right side edges together in a chain, trim apart, then sew your next edge on all 30 pieces, trim and repeat until you have all 30 pieces sewn. This makes the process go faster!

5. This is the fun part!!

6. DO NOT MOVE YOUR PIECES AT ALL UNTIL ALL 4 CUTS HAVE BEEN MADE!!

7. Using your ruler and rotary cutter and mat, cut your piece from corner to corner, and repeat for the other corners. (You just cut an X in your piece)

8. Now cut 4.75” from the left (cutting in half vertically)

9. Then cut 4.75” from the bottom (cutting in half horizontally)

10. You should now have 8 quarter square triangle (QST) pieces! 🙂

11. Psst…you can move them now. 😉

12. Press each piece to the darker print. Take care not to iron the piece as this will stretch your bias edges. Just press.

13. You will have two sets of four QST that match. One has a seam pressed to the left, one to the right. Keep these piles the same as you cut each LC set. One pile that has all seams pressed to the right, one pile that has all it’s seams pressed to the left. Keep these piles separate.

14. Using all these QST choose 2, both from the same pile, and both with different fabrics. Place these right sides together, matching and nesting your seams and sew along the LONG edge.

15. Press to one side. This makes up 1/4 of your block and it should measure 6” square. Square up if necessary.

16. Make 3 more.

17. Sew two pairs together, press to opposite sides.

18. Sew the pairs together. Press.

19. This is your Hourglass Block! It should measure 11.5”.

20. Make 30 Hourglass Blocks total.

Four Patch Blocks:
1. Choose 6 LC pieces and pair them up for contrast. (Note: You can use more than 6 to get a better variety in your blocks).

2. Lay 2 LC pieces right sides together, matching all edges. Sew 1/4” along each edge. (right and left)

3. Keeping your sewn edges to the right and left sides, cut piece in half. (5” from edge.)

4. Press to darker fabric. You should have two pieces that look like this.

5. Repeat for the other 2 pairs of LC pieces.

6. Pair up these pieces so each pair has different fabrics.

7. Place them right sides together with the middle seams matching. Be sure that the lighter and dark fabric pieces are opposite each other between the two pieces. See photo.

8. Sew 1/4” along each edge (left and right) so you are crossing over the seam. (refer to photo). From the edge that is sewn, cut in 1/2 way. (5” from edge”)

9. Press. You know have a Four Patch Block measuring 9.5”.

10. Repeat until you have 6 blocks.

11. Now cut 6 strips of white 1.5” x WOF and sub cut them into 12 strips measuring 1.5” x 9.5” and 12 strips measuring 1.5” x 11.5”.

12. Sew the 9.5” strips to the top and bottom of each of your Four Square blocks. Press.

13. Sew the 11.5” strips to the right and left of each of your Four Square Blocks. Press.

14. Continue this block using the Heart Template instructions below.

Heart Template:
1. Trace the heart template onto template plastic and cut it out on the line.

2. Using this template, place it on the wrong side of each of your 6 LC pieces you set out earlier and trace around the heart.

3. Cut out each heart on the line.

4. Attach the hearts to the Four Patch Blocks using your favourite method of applique. I placed mine in the center of each block then I sewed 1/4” away from the raw edge on the inside all the way around the heart.

5. When washed, this will cause it to fray and give it a scruffy look. 🙂

Finishing:
1. Layout your blocks in a pleasing order, 6 x 6, scattering the 6 heart blocks.

2. Sew the blocks together in each row. Press row 1 to the right, row 2 to the left, row 3 to the right, and so on.

3. Sew your rows together. Your seams should nest nicely.

4. Using your first border print, cut 8 strips measuring 1.5″ x WOF. Piece these in pairs. Add border strips to the right and left sides first, trim excess. Press. Then add to the top and bottom. Trim excess. Press.

5. Using your second border print, cut 8 strips measuring 4.5″ x WOF. Piece these in pairs. Add border strips to the right and left sides first, trim excess. Press. Then add to the top and bottom. Trim excess. Press.

6. Press your quilt top well.

7. Piece your backing then layer the backing, batting, and quilt top. Baste, and quilt as desired.

Before washing, your quilt should measure approximately 76″ square.

I hope you have enjoyed this tutorial! If you make this quilt, please oh please share it with me? You can email a photo of it to me HERE or you can add it to my Flickr Group HERE. I would love to feature them on my blog! 🙂

Much Love and Happy Quilting!!

KarrieLyne
{http://www.freckledwhimsy.com}

Sunkissed Squares

Feb21

Guess who, Moda Bake Shoppers? It’s me again, KarrieLyne from Freckled Whimsy, bringing you another tutorial! Actually, two tutorials! Woo Hoo!!

I’m really excited about this quilt because the idea came from a pillow I made for a pillow swap and I turned it into a quilt! It looks complicated but it’s really quite simple to put together and I also show you how to make the pillow! 🙂

Leah from Burgundy Buttons is also kitting this for you so hop on over HERE and grab it up quick!! Kits always sell out fast and I’d hate for you to miss out! 🙂 As an added bonus, Sweetwater has designed a label for this quilt and it will be included in the kit! How awesome is that??!!

Presenting…. Sunkissed Squares…

1 Fat Eighth bundle of Sunkissed
4 yards total of background fabric (includes enough for pillow)
4 1/2 yards for backing
1 yard for binding (8 strips @ 2.5″ x wof)
batting
thread to piece and quilt your project with

**all seams are 1/4″ unless otherwise noted
**FE = Fat Eighth
**WOF = width of fabric
**BG= background

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I am going to show you how to make one section of this quilt, step by step. You will need to make a total of FOUR sections to complete the quilt, or stop at one and make a really cute baby quilt. 🙂

1. Choose 5 dark prints from your FE bundle. I chose one from each colorway (yellow, orange, pink, gray, and green)

2. Iron each piece really well.

3. From 4 of the FE pieces, we need to cut the following:

* 1 @ 2.5″ x 14.5″

* 4 @ 2.5″ x 6.5″

* 1 @ 2.5″ x 4.5″

* 1 @ 2.5″ x 2.5″

I cut 3 strips along the 22″ edge at 2.5″ wide, then sub cut them into the above pieces. These will be the 4 outer squares of the block.

I also stacked 4 FE pieces and cut all of the above at once. 🙂

4. From the 5th FE piece, we need to cut the following:

* 2 @ 2.5″ x 14.5″

* 2 @ 2.5″ x 10.5″

I cut 3 strips along the 22″ edge at 2.5″ wide then sub cut them into the above pieces. These will be the inner square of the block.

5. From the white background fabric, cut:

(This is ALL the white that needs to be cut for the blocks. If you only do one for a baby quilt, you just divide it by 4.)

–for the blocks

* cut 3 strips 10.5″ wide. Sub cut into 16 @ 6.5 x 10.5

* cut 2 strips 6.5″ wide. Sub cut into 16 @ 4.5 x 6.5

* cut 1 strip 2.5″ wide. Sub cut into 16 @ 2.5 x 2.5

* cut 1 strip 2.5″ wide. Sub cut into 8 @ 2.5 x 4.5

* cut 1 strip at 2.5″ wide. Sub cut into 4 @ 2.5 x 10.5

* cut 4 strips a 2.5″ wide. Sub cut into 16 @ 2.5 x 8.5

–for the “sashing”

* 2 @ 2.5″ x WOF (block dividers for large quilt)

* 2 @ 2.5″ x WOF – piece these together for the top and bottom half dividers for large quilt

Making the block:

NOTE:: As you go through these steps, keep your colors in the same quadrants for each step . Example: I am using gray in the upper left quadrant, green in the upper right quadrant, orange in the lower left quadrant, and yellow in the lower right quadrant. Keep these positions throughout.

1. First we make the inside of the inside square. My inside square will be pink in this tutorial.

2. With each of the colors for the outside block, we need to essentially make 4 patches.

3. Lay out the 2.5″ x 2.5″ white pieces with the 2.5″ x 2.5″ print piece. Then add the 2.5″ x 4.5″ piece as shown in the photo below.

4. Sew the 2.5″ x 2.5″ pieces together. Press. Then sew the 2.5″ x 4.5″ to those. Make sure you pay attention to how they are sewn together. Otherwise you may end up with upside down pieces.

5. Sew a white BG piece measuring 2.5″ x 4.5″ between each set of 4 patches. Press to print.

6. Sew a white BG piece measuring 2.5″ x 10.5″ in between these two sets you just made. Press to print.

Note: I say press to print because of the white fabric. I don’t want my seams showing through after I quilt it. You could also press them open or do what you are comfortable with. 🙂

7. Using the FE pieces you cut for your center square, add these as a border. Add the pieces measuring 2.5″ x 10.5″ to each top and bottom. Press. Then add the pieces measuring 2.5″ x 14.5″ to the left and right.

8. This piece should measure 14.5″ square.

9. Set that piece aside.

10. Now we need to make two more sections per color for the outside squares.

11. Take a 10.5″ x 6.5″ white BG piece and add a 2.5″ x 6.5″ print piece on either side. Sew the print pieces to either side and press to the print. Repeat for each color.

12. Place the print piece measuring 14.5″ x 2.5″, matching the colors as shown in the photo below. Press to print. (sorry, I forgot to take a picture after I pressed, but you get the idea) 🙂

13. Sew a white BG piece measuring 2.5. x 8.5 in between the two sets. Remember to keep your colors in the respective corners. Press to print. Set aside.

14. Using your 4.5″ x 6.5″ white BG pieces, sew a 2.5″ x 6.5″ print piece to two sides, as shown below. Press to print.

15. Sew a white BG piece measuring 2.5″ x 8.5″ in between top and bottom pieces as shown below. Press to print.

16. Now the magic happens. 🙂

17. Lay out your pieces as such…

18. Sew the side pieces to the center, being careful to match your seams. If you have a consistent 1/4″ seam, you should not have an issue here. Then sew on the top and bottom pieces. Press well.

19. Voila. You have your first quarter block. 🙂

20. Repeat steps 1-20 three more times.

Sashing:

1. Sew one sashing strip to the right side of the upper left quadrant. Trim excess fabric from ends. Press.

2. Sew the upper right quadrant to the sashing strip. Take care to line up your “squares” as you sew. You will have to lift up your fabric to match.

3. Repeat for the two bottom quadrants.

4. Sew two sashing pieces together lengthwise to form one long sashing strip. Sew this to the bottom of the top section. Trim excess fabric from ends. Press.

5. Sew the bottom section to the top section, again carefully matching seams of the squares. Press.

Borders:

1. Cut 8 strips that measure 4.5″ x WOF from the leftover background fabric. Sew into 4 pairs.

2. Add border to left and right sides. Press. Trim excess border fabric from ends. Add the border pieces to the top and bottom. Press. Trim excess border fabric from ends.

Now all that is left is to sandwich your quilt with your favorite batting, quilt it, bind it, and throw it in the wash so it gets all squishy! 🙂

Before washing, your quilt should measure approximately 70″ square.

You’re probably wondering about that pillow too?

If you’d like to make this pillow to match, there is a bonus tutorial included in the Printer Friendly Version…

Much Love and Happy Quilting!!

KarrieLyne
{http://www.freckledwhimsy.com}

Geese In The Park

Jan31

Hello, my friends! It’s KarrieLyne from Freckled Whimsy bringing you another quilt tutorial! I have so much fun putting these together for you. I hope you enjoy them just as much as I do! 🙂

When I saw Kate Spain’s new line, Central Park, I knew I had to make a quilt with it. This line is themed around nature, so what better block to use than a flying geese block? I came up with a design using a unique placement of the flying geese to create a diamond effect, or if you’d rather, a zig zag effect.

Also, my good friend Leah over at Burgundy Buttons is offering this as a kit at a special price just for you!! Click HERE to get yours! Also, speaking of Kate Spain…you’ll never guess!! She has specially designed a quilt label just for this kit!! {{insert me excitedly jumping up and down!!}} So, hurry on over before they are all gone!

Enjoy…. Geese In The Park

What you will need to get started:

1 Layer Cake – Central Park
1 Layer Cake – White
1 1/2 yards of (27070 14) for border & binding
1 1/4 yard (27065 14) for 2nd border
4 1/2 yards of (27066 14) for backing

**Please read through the entire tutorial before beginning.

**All seam allowances are 1/4″.

**Blocks will finish at 8″ x 4″. (8.5″ x 4.5″ unfinished)

Cutting:

1. Choose 27 printed Layer Cake (LC) pieces. We need to trim these to 9 1/4″ square.

2. Using a ruler that is larger than your LC square, line up the top and right edge of your ruler with the top and right edge of the LC piece so that only about 1/8″ of the LC is showing. We just want to trim off the pinked edges.

3. Trim the edges on the top and the right.

4. Rotate your LC piece 180 degrees so that the top right corner is now at the bottom left corner. Your straight edges will now be on the left and bottom. Using your ruler, measure a square that is 9 1/4″.

5. Cut your 9 1/4″ square. Discard the scraps.

6. Repeat steps 2-5 for each of the remaining 26 LC printed squares. Set these aside for now.

7. Gather 27 of the white LC pieces. We need to trim these to yield four – 4 7/8″ squares per LC piece.
**Note: If you want to cut these from yardage, you will need 108 squares measuring 4 7/8″.

8. Start by trimming the left edge of your LC. Trim just enough to cut off the pinked edges, creating a straight edge. Be careful not to trim too much or you won’t have enough fabric to cut 4 squares.

**Note: I cut 3 LC pieces at a time to make this step go faster.

9. Now measure over 4 7/8″ with your ruler and make your cut.

10. Carefully slide the right stack over about 1/4″. Using this newly cut edge, measure over 4 7/8″ and cut.

11. Carefully rotate the stacks you just cut. We need to sub cut these into 4 7/8″ squares.

12. Trim the edge off again. Just enough to cut the pinked edge off. Not too much. We just want to establish a straight edge.

13. Measure over 4 7/8″ and cut.

14. Carefully move the stack on the right over about 1/4″. Using this newly cut edge, measure over 4 7/8″ and cut. Repeat for other strip.

15. Each LC piece will yield 4 squares measuring 4 7/8″. You will need a total of 108 of these squares.

Making the blocks:

1. For each printed LC piece, you will need 4 of the 4 7/8″ white squares. This combination will make 4 flying geese blocks.

2. You will need to draw a diagonal line on the wrong side of each of your squares measuring 4 7/8″.

Place two of these on your 9 1/4″ printed LC square as shown below. Be sure to line up all your edges, and your drawn lines should meet. Pin in place.

3. Sew 1/4″ on both sides of your drawn line.

4. Cut on that drawn line.

5. Press to the white triangles. Yields two heart shaped thingies 🙂

6. Place another 4 7/8″ square on the end of each of these heart shaped thingies. Making sure the drawn line begins at the point of the printed LC and falls between the two triangles. Pin in place.

7. Sew 1/4″ on either side of the drawn line on each piece.

8. Cut on drawn lines.

9. Press to the white triangles. Yield 4 flying geese! 🙂

10. Something to watch when making flying geese like these. If you have a directional print, they are going to be a bit wonky. Personally I didn’t mind, but if you do, this is how they will turn out. (The trees are all in one direction on the print.)

11. Repeat steps 2-9 for the remaining 26 LC pieces.

12. Chain piecing during steps 3 and 7 will make this process much much faster!

13. Once you have all your flying geese blocks made (you need 105 blocks but will have some extra using this method), arrange them 7 blocks by 15 blocks.

The block in the top left, the point of the “goose” should face down, the next block it will face up, and so on. The next row will be the opposite. Repeat for all 15 rows, arranging your blocks in a pleasing order.

14. Once you have them arranged how you like, sew the blocks into rows, making sure to press each row in opposite directions so the seams will nest when you sew the rows together.

15. Sew the rows together.

16. Cut from the purple fabric, 8 strips measuring 2.5″ x WOF (width of fabric) for your first border. Attach in your preferred method.

17. From the border print, cut 8 strips measuring 4.5″ x WOF for your second border. Attach in your preferred method.

18. All that is left is for you to sandwich your quilt, baste, quilt, and bind it. Oh, and don’t forget to throw it in the wash so it gets all smooshy! 😀

19. If you want a completely different look, follow the same instructions, but where I use white, use a print, and where I use a print, use white. This will give you white diamonds and the zig zags will be in the prints. 🙂

This quilt will measure about 68″ x 72″ (before washing). Isn’t it cute? 😀

Much Love and Happy Quilting!!

KarrieLyne
{freckledwhimsy.com}

Java Stars

Dec30

Hi ya Moda Bake Shoppers! It’s me again, KarrieLyne from Freckled Whimsy, bringing you my Java Stars tutorial! This quilt was really fun to put together and I just love the illusion it gives!

In putting this quilt together, you will have more “scraps” than usual, but if you hop on over HERE to my blog, I will give you some really fun ways to use these up!

As usual, Leah over at Burgundy Buttons is offering this up in a kit! Woo Hoo!! She has a very limited supply in this line though, so hurry over and grab one up! 🙂

Please enjoy…. Java Stars!

1 Java layer cake

2 3/4 yards light background (19442-20)

3/4 yard red for border (19448-13)

3/4 yard for binding (19445-11)

4 yards for backing (19441-15)

1. Using the background fabric, you will need to cut 36 squares measuring 10″.

2. Start by cutting 9 strips that are 10″ wide x width of fabric (WOF). Then sub cut these into 36 10″ squares.

3. Next we need to make a template. No worries, it’s really easy and you can still rotary cut all your blocks. 🙂

4. Take a standard piece of paper (8.5″ x 11″) or similar in size. Cut out a piece that is 4.5″ x 10″.

5. Along the top edge that is 4.5″ long, make a mark at the 1/2″ mark.

6. Now line up your ruler from that 1/2″ mark to the opposite corner and cut.

7. You will have two pieces. You need the piece that has the 1/2″ edge marked. See photo.

8. I am using a background fabric that is very directional for this quilt so you have to cut your pieces carefully. This will make sure when your quilt is together, all the words are as they would be in a book with no words that are sideways.

9. Separate your background pieces into four piles of 9 blocks each. When I cut my templates out of these pieces, I cut three at a time. Just make sure each block is lined up well before you cut.

10. Keeping your background pieces so that you can read the words left to right, take your first pile of 9 squares (only cutting 3 at a time) and lay your template as shown, then carefully place your ruler over the template, matching the edge.

11. Now cut along ruler edge. Repeat for remaining 6 blocks in this set. Keep each piece in its respective pile.

12. Take your second pile of 9 squares (only cutting 3 at a time) and lay your template as shown, then carefully place your ruler over the template, matching the edge. Cut along ruler edge.

**Note: You are not changing the orientation of the background fabric, you are only moving the template in each round. Cut along ruler edge.

13. Take your third pile of 9 squares (only cutting 3 at a time) and lay your template as shown, then carefully place your ruler over the template, matching the edge. Cut along ruler edge.

14. Take your fourth pile of 9 squares (only cutting 3 at a time) and lay your template as shown, then carefully place your ruler over the template, matching the edge. Cut along ruler edge.

15. You should now have piles that look like this, still keeping the orientation of the words the same.

**Note: If you are not using a directional background (or you do not mind if your words are wonky) you can cut each piece the same and you won’t have to rotate where you cut the template or have to keep them in piles of 9.

16. You can set aside the pieces that were under the template. You won’t use these in this quilt, but you can head over to my blog to see what I did with mine. 🙂

17. Next, you need to cut up your layer cake in the same manner. You don’t have to divide up your layer cake or rotate the template like you did the background pieces, just watch the directional prints when you cut them and match them to the corresponding background pieces when we get to that step.

18. Choose 36 layer cake pieces and cut the template from the bottom of each piece. I removed the lightest layer cake pieces since my background fabric is so light. Set aside the pieces that are not under the template.

19. Now divide these template pieces into 4 piles of 9 and match them with the background fabrics like such. Again, watch your directional prints so they match.

20. Using the large pieces of layer cake that you set aside, we are going to cut 36 squares that are 4″.

21. Start by cutting (I stacked 3 pieces again) a 4″ strip from that layer cake. Set aside piece on right. You won’t use these in this quilt, but you can head over to my blog to see what I did with mine. 🙂

22. Turn your 4″ strip and cut a 4″ square. Yields 36 squares that are 4″. Set aside the remainder of those 4″ strips to use in the border later.

23. Draw a line on the wrong side of each of your 4″ squares.

24. Now we are ready to sew our blocks! I did one pile at a time. Take your first pile. Flip a template piece right side together with a background piece along the cut edge, leaving about a 1/4″ space at the tip.

25. Sew 1/4″ seam along edge. Press to print.

26. Grab up those 4″ square pieces. On the opposite corner of the wide end of the template, place a square right sides together.

27. Sew ON the line.

28. Trim 1/4″ away from sewn line. Save the trimmed pieces and check my blog for an idea for them!

29. Press to the print. Repeat for remaining 3 groups.

30. Now comes the fun part. Trimming. Don’t groan. This is important…LOL!

31. I squared mine up to 9.5″ first. Remember to keep your blocks in their piles of 4!

32. Then I only trimmed the template side. Line up your ruler along the 9 1/4″ lines on the bottom and left side of your ruler with the matching sides of your block (as shown), and then trim the right side and top.

33. If necessary, turn your block 180 degrees and trim edges to make sure they are straight. This step may not be needed, but check a few of your blocks.

34. I used a design wall to layout all of my blocks in sets of four. One block from each pile. In doing this, all of your words will be facing the same way. 🙂

35. You will make 9 groupings of these, laying them out 3 x 3 like such…

36. Sew the blocks into rows and then sew the rows together.

37. From your red fabric, cut 8 strips that are 2.5 x WOF. Piece four sets of two together, end to end. Add to the sides first, trim extra. Add to the top and bottom, trim excess.

38. Using the 4″ pieces that were leftover from cutting the squares, we are going to piece the outer border. You will need 11 for each right and left side, and 12 for each top and bottom strip. To have enough, you will need to cut more from the layer cake pieces you pulled out in the beginning. Just cut 4″ strips in each piece and then into 6″ x 4″ pieces. You will need 66 total.

39. Sew pieces end to end along the 4″ edge, two sets of 11 and two sets of 12. Sew onto the sides first, trim excess. Sew onto the top and bottom, trim excess.

40. Press well. Sandwich your quilt with the backing, batting and quilt top. Quilt as desired and add your binding. Then of course, throw it in the wash to smoosh it all up like this….

Oh how I love that smooshed up look!! 😀

This quilt will measure about 67″ x 67″ before washing.

Much Love and Happy Quilting!!

KarrieLyne
{http://www.freckledwhimsy.com}

Boxed In Quilt

Oct24

Hi all you Moda Bake Shop fans!!! This is KarrieLyne from Freckled Whimsy back with another goodie for you!!

Do you need a quick quilt for a gift? Getting chilly at this time of year and need a fast lap warmer? Need an idea for a charity quilt or want to make a quilt for Quilts for Kids or the like? This pattern is definitely one that can be put together in a weekend, or even less, if you are ambitious!

I love all the fun bright colors in Sandy Gervais’ new line, Lollipop which is why I chose it for this quilt! If you love it as much as I do…head on over to Burgundy Buttons where Leah has a kit at a discounted price waiting just for you!! Hurry though, she only has a limited supply!!

1 Lollipop Layer Cake
1/2 yard for first border (7521-444)
1 yard for second border (17555-13)
1/2 yard for binding (17557-24)
4 yards for backing (17551-13)

— 1/4″ seams used throughout
— LC is an abbreviation for Layer Cake

1. Pull out all 7 of the solid LC pieces.

2. Cut them into 5 x 5 squares

**NOTE** If you don’t have enough solids or don’t want to use the solids, you can use the 5” piece you cut out in a future step and mix and match them in your LC pieces too. 🙂

3. Choose 25 LC pieces that the solids will contrast with.

4. Pair up a 5” solid square with a LC piece –I put mine in a pile as I matched them up until I had what I liked.

5. Now we cut the layer cakes apart.

6. Start by cutting 1 1/4” from the left side of the LC.

7. From the edge you just cut, cut over another 5”.

8. Turn the center piece sideways and trim at 2”

9. From the edge you just cut, cut over another 5”. Now rotate the pieces back in their respective spots.

10. Replace the center 5” piece with your solid.

**NOTE** To make sewing go faster, I cut up each layer cake and placed them with their solid and stacked them up on a 12.5” square ruler for easy transport. Keeping each piece in its respective position. This way you can chain piece each block when it’s time to sew. 🙂

11. Sew your center row together. Press.

12. Then sew on the sides. Press.

13. Repeat for all 25 layer cake pieces.

14. Trim off the overhanging edges and square up to 9” if necessary.

15. Lay out your blocks, 5 across and 5 down, in a pleasing order, making sure to rotate your blocks for a wonky effect.

16. Then sew the blocks into rows, and then sew the rows together. Press.

17. For the first border, cut (5) 2” strips from your first border fabric. The top and bottom border will be just one strip each. When you do the sides, you will have to piece the strips.

18. Cut (6 ) 4 1/2” strips from your second border fabric. You will have to piece each side for this border.

19. Press once more, then sandwich with the batting and the backing, quilt, bind, then throw it in the wash and dry. 🙂

This quilt will measure about 50″ x 50″ after washing. Isn’t it cute? 😀

If you want to make the quilt larger, just add more layer cake pieces and follow the same steps!

Much Love and Happy Quilting!!

KarrieLyne
{http://www.freckledwhimsy.com}

Blueberry Chocolate Squares

Sep14

Hello again, my friends!

I am so happy to be back at Moda Bake Shop and presenting you with Blueberry Chocolate Squares! Mmmm…everyone loves chocolate, right? 🙂

This quilt is really simple and it goes together so fast. I actually pieced AND quilted it in 3 days!!(Results may vary. I’ve always wanted to say that…lol)

Once you’re finished here, I’d love for you to come visit me over at Freckled Whimsy! More dorkiness guaranteed. 😀

Also, Leah over at Burgundy Buttons is kitting this up, just for you and at a reduced price!!! Click HERE to snag one up before they are gone! She also has the backing on sale HERE! Thanks Leah!!!

Isn’t it cute?! 🙂

Enjoy…Blueberry Chocolate Squares….

1 Pure Layer cake
1/2 yard for 1″ border (I used 5431-12)
1 1/4 yards for 4″ border (I used 5438-18)
1/2 yard for binding (I used 5436 16)
4 yards for backing (I used 5430-21)

Note: All seams are sewn with a 1/4″ seam allowance.

From your layer cake, choose 36 squares. The more contrasting they are, the better.

For each of the 36 pieces, follow these cutting steps.

1. Cut a 5 7/8″ strip from layer cake piece

2. Turn that SAME piece 90 degrees and cut it at 5 7/8″. You should now have a 5 7/8″ square.

3. As you cut each piece, put them in 3 separate piles. You may want to keep lights and darks separate.

You should have 36 each of:

5 7/8″ squares
4 1/8″ x 5 7/8″ rectangles
4 1/8″ x 10″ rectangles

Note: You *can* cut all pieces of the layer cake this way. (Most will have 40-42 pieces). Doing this will give you some of each fabric and more variety. You will just have extra pieces when you are done. 🙂

Once you have all of these cut, you can start piecing your quarter blocks.

Begin by taking the 5 7/8″ squares and pairing them up. Choose contrasting colors. You need 18 pairs. (Remember if you cut all your layer cake pieces, you may have extras here. Just put those in your scrap bin.)

Taking your first pair, on one side of one of the squares, draw a line from corner to corner on the WRONG side.

Place this piece RIGHT sides together with the contrasting square and sew 1/4″ on either side of that drawn line.

Now, cut on that drawn line, yielding two half square triangles (HST). Press to the darker fabric.

You should now have 36 half square triangles.

Each HST will be paired up with the other rectangles you cut from the layer cake. One in each size in the SAME print.

Choose a HST and the border print. Contrast is good here too.

Take the smaller rectangle and sew it to the top of the HST. Make sure the edges are lined up on the LEFT side. Sew across the top edge. You will have some overhang on the right. This is ok. Just leave it for now. 🙂

Press toward the piece you just sewed on.

Make sure you mix up the positioning of your HST. Example: In the photo below, the light color fabric is in the upper right corner. Change this up using some lights, some mediums, and some darks, in each of your blocks.

Next you will sew on the larger rectangle. Line up the LEFT and BOTTOM edges. Again, you will have hangover, this time at the top.

Press to the rectangle.

This is what your block should look like.

Next up is trimming.

First, trim the overhang on the right side, lining up your ruler with the edge of the HST. Cut.

Rotate the block 90 degrees CLOCKWISE. (See photos)

Line up the LEFT and BOTTOM edge of the block with the 8 1/2″ marks on your ruler.

Trim the right side and top.

Your quarter block should now measure 8 1/2″ square.

Repeat until you have 36 of these quarter blocks.

Note: To make this go faster, stack up your HST and chosen rectangles, one on top of each other, still in 3 piles, until you have all 36 stacked. Then you can chain piece, starting by sewing on all the smaller rectangles to the HST, press, then adding the larger rectangles, press.

Time to arrange your blocks.

Choose 4 of your quarter blocks. Arrange them so the HST are in the center.

Sew the top two blocks together, pressing to one side.
Sew the bottom two blocks together, pressing to the opposite side as the top.

Sew the top and bottom together.

Repeat this process until you have 9 blocks that measure 16 1/2″ (unfinished).

Arrange in a pleasing order and sew the blocks as a 3 x 3 grid.

From the first border fabric cut 1 1/2″ strips and sew in place.
From the second border fabric, cut 4 1/2″ strips and sew in place.

Now you are ready to sandwich your quilt, baste, quilt, and bind. 🙂

This quilt will measure about 58″ x 58″. Isn’t it cute? 😀

Much Love and Happy Quilting!!

Karrie Lyne
{http://www.freckledwhimsy.com}

Crossing Paths

Aug19

Hello, Moda Bake Shoppers!! It’s KarrieLyne again from Freckled Whimsy! I’m so pleased to bring you my second bake shop goodie, Crossing Paths.

I’m also excited to share that Leah over at Burgundy Buttons has everything to make this quilt top in a kit, just for you! She also has backing fabric at a great price too! So hop on over and pay her a visit to pick up this kit. Make sure to tell her I said hello. 🙂

Enjoy!

1 Layer Cake
1 1/2 yards of a light solid or near solid (30150-92)
1 1/4 yards for outer border (30232-17)
2 1/2 yards dark solid or near solid for blocks, first border and binding (30150-99)
4 1/2 yards for backing (30234-17) & batting to match size

Cutting:
*Using the light yardage, cut (18) 10” squares.
*From the black, cut (18) 2” strips. Then cut those in half to yield 32 strips.
*Cut 8 more 2″ strips from the black for your 1st border.
*From the black fabric cut 8 strips 2.5″ wide to use for the binding
*From the outer border fabric, cut width of fabric into 8 strips, measuring 4.5″ wide.

Using the solid squares you cut, draw a line from top to bottom of each solid piece measuring 5” from the edge. (Right down the center).

Choose 18 layer cake pieces. I tried to keep out the lightest ones and the dark solids. Keep a good mixture of lights and mediums.

Put a layer cake piece and a solid piece RIGHT SIDES together.

Sew 1/4” seam on each side of that drawn line.

Cut on drawn line.

Press to dark. Yield two pieces.

Do this for all 18 pairs.

Pair them again so that each pair has two different prints from the layer cake. I paired mine all at once so I wouldn’t get duplicates. 🙂

On one of the pairs, on the WRONG side, draw a vertical line at 5” from the edge. Make sure your first sewn line is horizontal, or left to right.

Put your two pieces RIGHT sides together so that your print is on TOP of your solid. Your seams should nest nicely.

Sew 1/4” seam on each side of your drawn line.

Cut on drawn line. Press.

Each pair will yield 2 Four Patches. Do this process for each pair. You should have 36 Four Patches when you’re complete.

Cut from corner to corner through the LIGHT SOLID in each Four Patch block. Do not cut through the prints.

Sew one of the 2” black strips to one side of your triangle piece. Make sure you have some (at least an inch) of overhang on each end. Press to the dark.

Fold the piece with the strip in half, corner to corner and gently finger press the fold to create a line in the fabric. Flip the other triangle over top, RIGHT sides together, and line up the edges and the point of the triangle to the creased line. This is so it will be centered.

Sew the pieces together. Press to the dark.

Trim the two corners. (This is why you want at least an inch of overhang!)

Do this for all 36 Four Patches.

Arrange four of these “Four Patches” per the below photo.

Sew the top two blocks. Press to one side. Then sew the bottom two blocks and press to the opposite side. Then sew the top and bottom pieces together to form one large block.

**NOTE** Your blocks will not all be the same size so you will need to match up your seams, not the edges of your blocks. This will create overhang on each side of your new block (the 4 four patch blocks).

Now trim those hangover edges so your block is square. They should measure about 19.5″ square.

Lay out your blocks 3 x 3, again making sure to match your seams. If your edges don’t line up, this is ok. Once you have the top together, you will square up the sides if needed.

Once you’ve squared up the edges (if necessary) add the 2″ black border, then add the 4.5″ print border. Then sandwich your quilt, baste, quilt, bind and wash! 🙂

One Crossing Paths quilt measuring about 69″ square (before washing)!

I hope you have enjoyed this tutorial! If you make this quilt, please, oh please share it with me! You can email a photo of it to me HERE or you can add it to my Flickr Group HERE. I would love to feature them on my blog! 🙂

As always, if you have any questions, please feel free to email me HERE. I am happy to help.

Much Love and Happy Quilting!!

KarrieLyne
{http://www.freckledwhimsy.com}

Random Reflections

Jul5

Hello!!! I am KarrieLyne from Freckled Whimsy and I am so excited to be bringing you my very first Moda Bake Shop goodie!! The amazing ideas here at MBS are what got me back into quilting again!! I hadn’t really been quilting much and one day I went into my LQS and saw a sign that posted the web address for MBS. I went home and spent hours looking at all the projects and now I can’t stop sewing…and now, designing! 🙂

I am truly honored to be able to share my very first design with you all!

Enjoy … Random Reflections!

** All seams are to be sewn with 1/4″ seam allowance.

1 Jelly Roll print- I am using Fandango
1 Jelly Roll solid in Snow (or 3 yards)
4 yards coordinating print for backing (I used 27044-11)
1 yard for the binding (I used 27051-11)
10 1/2″ square ruler (you can use a larger one, but using this ruler makes it MUCH easier)

1. Choose 40 printed jelly roll strips and 40 solid jelly roll strips. Trim the selvage ends.

2. Sew each printed jelly roll strip to the end of a solid jelly roll strip, right sides facing, and end to end. You will have one LONG strip (approximately 80″). Chain piecing makes this step go faster.

Press to the printed fabric.

3. Choose 4 strips and lay them close together on your cutting mat so the seams lay in a random order (at different levels).

4. Lay your 10 1/2″ square ruler so that you have some of the print under it as well as some of the white. There is no right or wrong way to position these as each time you do this, it will be different. The important part is when you go to cut your strips, lay them out differently each time. You want the randomness 🙂

**Note: Make sure your strips are straight. I lined up the outside edges with the lines on the ruler.

5. Using your rotary cutter, trim at the top of the ruler, and at the bottom. This will yield you (4) 2 1/2″ by 10 1/2″ strips.

6. You will need to repeat this for all 40 of your strips. (Remember to change how you lay the strips and how you cut them to get different lengths of the print).

Repeat using each of the 40 jelly roll print and solid strips 3 more times. This will give you 160 strip pieces.

Now choose 20 of your favorite prints and 20 of the solid strips and do this once more for each of the 20 strips. This will give you a total of 180 strip pieces.

7. Make your blocks by choosing 5 of the strips you just made and sew them together. You will need 6 blocks for each row so I suggest chain piecing. (Sew two together leaving them in the machine; sew two more, etc, until you have done this 6 times. Remove from the machine and add the third strip, and so on). Strip piecing makes this go much faster. 🙂

Note: Make sure when sewing these pieces together, that they are all in the same direction. If you start with the solid on top, continue in that same manner for each block.

8. Pressing is the next step. This is important. You MUST press every block in the same direction. This way when you sew your rows, your seams will nest together nicely. When I pressed my blocks, I had the solid at the top and pressed to the left. How you choose to do it does not matter, so long as each block has the seams pressed in the same direction.

9. Each row is 6 blocks. Once you have them pressed you can sew them together.

10. Make 6 rows of 6 blocks. Then alternate the direction of the rows. The first row should have the solid fabric on top, the second row should have the prints on top. This gives the random mirrored reflection of the prints.

11. Once you have all 6 rows together, you are ready to sandwich your quilt, baste, quilt, and bind!

Here it is made with Eva by Basic Grey. (I made this one 6 rows of 5 blocks, so a bit smaller)

One very unique and modern quilt that measures approximately 60″ X 60″. There will also be enough strips left over if you’d like to make it larger too. 🙂

I hope you have enjoyed my first MBS tutorial and I’d love to see your interpretation of this quilt. My favorite part about this quilt is that no two will be alike.

If you make this quilt, I would love it if you added it to my Flickr group –> Freckled Whimsy – Show & Tell! I want to oooohhhh and ahhhhhh over them all!!! 😀

Also, if you have ANY questions, feel free to email me.

Much Love!!!