Coupon Clutch

Times are tough and we are all trying to save as much as we can! I designed this tutorial to be a cute and fashionable way for you to organize your coupons. I hope you enjoy making it as much as I did!

Charm Pack – I used Objects of Desire by Sandy Gervais
1/3 yd of Pellon decor bond interfacing
a set of magnetic fasteners
white card stock
scrap of fusible web (7″ x 4″) Therm-O-Web or Steam a Seam
PDF file of organizer tabs

1. Take 18 charms and cut them into 3 bricks and one square. You can use more than 18 charms if you’d like to have more of a variety. You will need 54 bricks and 18 squares.

Bricks = 2″ x 3″ Square = 2″ x 2″

2. Randomly pick 3 bricks and one square and piece them together in a row with the square on one end.

3. Do this a total of 18 times for 18 little rows. This goes very fast if you chain piece! I pressed all seams towards the square.

18 pressed little rows!

4. You can go about this randomly or you can plan in out. If you want to do it randomly skip this step. If you want to plan it like I did, lay out your 18 rows alternating the square at the top and then the bottom so that none of your brick seams line up.

5. Cut your Pellon to 9 1/2 wide x WOF (or at least 30″). The assembly of the main piece will be in a quilt as you go method that uses the interfacing in place of batting.

6. Start at one end of the Pellon and iron one row onto the fusible side being careful not to put the iron onto the interfacing where there is no fabric yet or your iron will get very messy!

7. Place the next row on top of the one you just fused down and sew a 1/4 seam through both pieces of fabric and the interfacing.

8. Fold the 2nd piece of fabric back onto the fusible side of the interfacing and iron it in place. Again be careful to only iron where there is fabric.

9. Repeat this with the next strip and continue until you have all 18 sewn together. You may find it helpful to roll up the extra interfacing and secure it with binding clips to keep it out of the way as you work.

You may also find it helpful to place 2 or 3 pins to hold the layers together to prevent slipping as you continue to add rows.

10. Trim any extra interfacing. Your piece should measure 9 1/2 x 27 1/2. (It may be less than 27 1/2 depending on your seam allowance and that is ok!)

11. Flip your piece over so that the interfacing side is facing up. Take a pen and draw 3 lines on top of three of your stitching lines.

The lines are to be marked at
3 rows in from the right (c)
6 rows in from the right (b)
6 rows in from the left (a)
Make sure you draw them on top of the seam and not where the seam allowance ends.

The next few steps are to put the magnetic snap in. The locations may seem odd but I promise they will match up!

12. Start by marking the locations of the snaps. The female snap location is the stitching line one to the left of line c and centered top to bottom.

The male snap location is ¾ inch to the left of line a also centered top to bottom.

13. Magnetic snaps have 4 parts. A male, a female and 2 washers. Center the washers on top of the two dots you made in step 12. Use a pen to mark the two lines on either side of the dot. Carefully use a small pair of scissors to snip part of the lines so that you will be able to put your snap through. (A seam ripper can work for this too.) You do not need to cut the entire line and smaller is better on this part as you will be able to expand the cut more if needed to push the snap through.

14. Push the correct snap (male or female) through the fabric and interfacing so that the prongs stick out the back.

15. Put the washer on and press the prongs down toward the outside.

Repeat for the 2nd snap part.

The next few steps involve folding the body of your clutch together. Follow the pictures as they help to show what you need to do. This may seem a bit different from what you are used to but the only complicated part is folding. You’ll be amazed at how easy this will all come together

16. Start with your piece face up.

17. Fold the right side over so the fold is at line b.

18. Fold back the part you just folded so that the end goes a bit past b and you have created a new fold at line c.

19. The last fold is to take the left size and fold it all the way over to the right and make the fold at line a.

20. Put lots of pins in to hold everything in place.

21. One last step before we sew this all together. Measure in 1 1/2 inches from each side at the top and mark it with a pen or pencil. Measure down 2 1/2 inches on each side and mark this as well. Draw a line to connect the two dots.

22. Sew a ¼ seam on the left and right sides pivoting at the line you just drew. It helps to switch to a walking foot (dual feed) and go slow as you are sewing through many layers at some points.

23. Trim the top corners off.

24. Take your 7″ x 4″ piece of fusible web and fuse it to the top of your piece. The metal will get hot so be careful not to touch it!

24. Pin the open seam at the bottom and sew 2″ in along the bottom on each side with a 3/16″ seam so that you do not catch the folded piece in the seam. This should leave a good size opening to turn your piece.

25. Once you have sewn both sizes it is time to turn. Clip your corners a bit, take the paper off the fusible you ironed in step 24 and then turn the piece right side out. Poke out all 6 corners. I’ve found that a mechanical pencil with the lead pushed in works well.

26. Iron the top flap flat. The fusible will hold it all together. You may need to press hard with the iron since there are many layers.

27. You’ll notice that you still have raw edges at the bottom center. Fold in 3/16″ and carefully pin the seam together. Hand or machine stitch it closed. It is going to end up being on the inside so I did it by machine.

28. Now it is time to make the clutch have a bit of a flat bottom. To do this we want to sew across the bottom corners. Match the bottom seam to the side seam in one bottom corner. Pin on either side. Draw a line a little over an inch long across the piece.

29. Sew across this line to form the tucked corner. Sew very slow as there are many layers. We don’t want any broken needles as we are almost done!

Repeat for the other side. And flip the piece right side out.

You’ll end up with two neat bottom corners!

30. Put the magnetic parts together. Iron the top to make a crease for the flap to fold naturally and you are done!

See how easy that was!!

One adorable coupon clutch!

Now it is time to fill it with coupons. Print this PDF file on cardstock to make your dividers. Some may not apply to your shopping needs so print the ones that work for you. There are blank ones on the last page that you can use to add ones as well. Cut them out and put your coupons in order! You are ready to be a super savvy shopper!

Use the rest of your charm pack to make a 2nd coupon clutch for a friend! Or to make a mini version of amanda jean’s bag like i did.

I used 9 charms on each side for a 3×3 layout and didn’t trim them. So my bag pieces were 14″x14″

I also used fashion handles instead of making fabric ones. This gave me an opportunity to use my scraps from cutting the charms for the coupon clutch!

Off to the market I go!


by Julie of!

Charming Handbag

one charm pack-Objects of Desire, by Sandy Gervais-or any charm pack with at least 32 squares
2/3 yard denim or chambray
two 18″ squares of quilt batting
1 1/2 yards (22″ wide) iron on interfacing, if desired. (i used a lightweight Pellon interfacing.)
magnetic snap closure (optional)
template plastic-4.5″ x 11″, with corners rounded

choose 16 charms for each side of the bag and layout in a pleasing arrangement

trim each charm square down to 4.5″ square
assemble squares into a 16 patch block using a 1/4″ seam allowance, pressing well.

layer each quilt block onto a piece of batting. it is optional to use a piece of fabric on the back of your quilt sandwich. for this bag i chose to quilt it without a backing, as it will be enclosed inside the purse. (i have constructed these bags with and without a backing and both ways work great.)

quilt as desired. i chose a simple stipple in cream thread.
repeat for other piece of patchwork.
trim off excess edges and square up each piece to 16.5″.

pin the front to the back, right sides together, and sew around 3 sides with a 1/4″ seam allowance.

the inside should look something like this.

next, we will box out the edges to give the bag some depth. to do this, open up the bag and pull the sides apart until the sides of the purse form a triangle. measure 2″ down from the point of the seam, mark a line.

pin and sew on the line.
trim off the triangles about 1/4″ from the marked line

repeat on the other side.

turn the bag right side out. it should look something like this. set aside for now.

cut 2 squares of chambray 16.5″ for the lining, and two rectangles that measure 4.5″ x 20″ for the handles. interface if desired.

at this point, add pockets (if desired) and magnetic snap (also optional) to the lining.

to construct the lining, sew the two squares of chambray together on 3 sides, leaving a 4-5″ gap in the center of the bottom of the bag to allow you to turn your bag later.
box out the corners as you did with the exterior of the bag, using the same process.
now, make your handles from the rectangles.

fold in half lengthwise and press.
open and press each side (again lengthwise) in toward the center fold line. then fold in half and press again, which will encase the raw edges inside the handles. pin well.
top stitch on either side of the straps to complete your handles.

to position handle, measure in 4.5″ from each side and pin handle in place. make sure that the strap is not twisted.
tack the handles onto the main body of the bag. this step saves the need for excessive pinning later on.

place the outside of the bag (which is right side out) inside the lining (which is inside out) and line up the edges. make sure the handles are inside of the bag at this point.

pin well around the perimeter of the bag. sew together using a 1/4″ seam allowance.
turn the bag right side out (through the gap left open for turning) and finger press the seam around the top of the bag.
top stitch around the perimeter of the bag using a scant seam allowance. a walking foot is very helpful for this step.

insert the piece of template plastic through the gap that you left for turning and arrange it in the bottom of the bag. (it will be enclosed inside the purse between the lining and the outside of the bag.) this helps the bag retain it’s shape.
pin and stitch close the opening that you used for turning. readjust the position of the template plastic if necessary.
and you are done!
one cute handbag that measures 12″ wide, 14″ high and 4.5″ deep.
tutorial by amandajean of crazymomquilts

Happy Birthday Banner

They’ll know as soon as they walk in the door and see this cheerful banner that a fun time is soon to follow!

From Sandy Gervais’ Objects of Desire, I used:
one Layer Cake (10 inch squares)
and one Charm Pack (5 inch squares)


half yard white fabric
Heat N Bond, or other iron on adhesive

smaller pompom trims, dress trims, buttons, ric rac, fabric yoyo’s

You will be making 14 individual pennants—the 13 letters that spell HAPPY BIRTHDAY plus one that will act as a space between the 2 words. Select 14 ten inch squares from the layer cake. Trim the squares down to 5.5 inches by 8 inches. Select 14 five inch squares from the charm pack (these will be used for the letters). Lay the pennants and coordinating letter fabrics out in a way that pleases you.

Cut 14 five inch squares of the Heat N Bond

and iron them on to the backs of the five inch squares.

I own a die cut alphabet set, and used it to make the letters for this banner, but here is an alternative way to produce your letters. In whatever computer program you have at home (I’ve always used MS Publisher) create a letter 4 inches tall and mirror image it (flip it backwards). Pick a font that has some width to it. Print on copy paper. Do this for each letter needed. Now create a sandwich in the following order: fabric wrong side up (Heat N Bond paper facing you), dressmaker’s carbon paper (ink side down), and finally; right side up, the paper with the backwards printed letter.

Trace over the letter with a pen, which transfers the marking to your project

Cut out and peel off paper back. Iron it on to it’s coordinating pennant.

From the white fabric, cut 14 rectangles 5.5″ by 8″. This is for the backing (or lining). Pin a white backing fabric to each lettered pennant, right sides together. Sew 1/4” seam up the two long sides.

Turn inside out and press. TIP: I got a fast and accurate straight edge press by inserting a piece of cardstock like this (use steam + be quick = no burning)

Now lay them out in order and play around with placement of different trims and edgings. Sew trims in place. TIP: from this point on I use clear monofilament thread in the upper position and white bobbin thread. That way I don’t have to keep changing thread colors.

Next you will attach the individual pennants to the long piece of pom pom trim. Find the center of the trim piece and the center of your saying (in this case the center is between the B and the I in Birthday) and begin attaching each pennant. You could pin and then sew on the machine, but I get much better results by running a quick basting seam. If you do it in the same color as the trim you won’t even have to bother with pulling it out later.

I found myself using Aleene’s Fast Grab Tacky Glue for a few things as seen in the next picture. The buttons on top of the fabric yo yos, applying the yo yos themselves to the pennants, applying the three layered button (on the T) to the fabric, and finishing the edges of the thick green pom pom trim for added security. It was dry enough to work around within 10 minutes. The smaller buttons I sewed by hand.

The amount of embellishments you choose to use is all a matter of personal taste. Here are a couple of close ups for a few ideas

Notice on the D pennant in this next picture I used the scrap strip from a scallop rotary blade cut as a trim piece

If you hang this throughout the year for various family members birthdays you could even start it with no embellishments but keep adding small pictures and mementos here and there as the years go by.

There will be enough fabric for two banners (give one to a friend!) with plenty leftover to brighten up your scrap stash. Approximately six feet long, not including extra length of trim on each side.

Come visit me at my blog! jen duncan