Times are tough and we are all trying to save as much as we can! I designed this tutorial to be a cute and fashionable way for you to organize your coupons. I hope you enjoy making it as much as I did!
Charm Pack – I used Objects of Desire by Sandy Gervais
1/3 yd of Pellon decor bond interfacing
a set of magnetic fasteners
white card stock
scrap of fusible web (7″ x 4″) Therm-O-Web or Steam a Seam
PDF file of organizer tabs
1. Take 18 charms and cut them into 3 bricks and one square. You can use more than 18 charms if you’d like to have more of a variety. You will need 54 bricks and 18 squares.
Bricks = 2″ x 3″ Square = 2″ x 2″
2. Randomly pick 3 bricks and one square and piece them together in a row with the square on one end.
3. Do this a total of 18 times for 18 little rows. This goes very fast if you chain piece! I pressed all seams towards the square.
18 pressed little rows!
4. You can go about this randomly or you can plan in out. If you want to do it randomly skip this step. If you want to plan it like I did, lay out your 18 rows alternating the square at the top and then the bottom so that none of your brick seams line up.
5. Cut your Pellon to 9 1/2 wide x WOF (or at least 30″). The assembly of the main piece will be in a quilt as you go method that uses the interfacing in place of batting.
6. Start at one end of the Pellon and iron one row onto the fusible side being careful not to put the iron onto the interfacing where there is no fabric yet or your iron will get very messy!
7. Place the next row on top of the one you just fused down and sew a 1/4 seam through both pieces of fabric and the interfacing.
8. Fold the 2nd piece of fabric back onto the fusible side of the interfacing and iron it in place. Again be careful to only iron where there is fabric.
9. Repeat this with the next strip and continue until you have all 18 sewn together. You may find it helpful to roll up the extra interfacing and secure it with binding clips to keep it out of the way as you work.
You may also find it helpful to place 2 or 3 pins to hold the layers together to prevent slipping as you continue to add rows.
10. Trim any extra interfacing. Your piece should measure 9 1/2 x 27 1/2. (It may be less than 27 1/2 depending on your seam allowance and that is ok!)
11. Flip your piece over so that the interfacing side is facing up. Take a pen and draw 3 lines on top of three of your stitching lines.
The lines are to be marked at
3 rows in from the right (c)
6 rows in from the right (b)
6 rows in from the left (a)
Make sure you draw them on top of the seam and not where the seam allowance ends.
The next few steps are to put the magnetic snap in. The locations may seem odd but I promise they will match up!
12. Start by marking the locations of the snaps. The female snap location is the stitching line one to the left of line c and centered top to bottom.
The male snap location is ¾ inch to the left of line a also centered top to bottom.
13. Magnetic snaps have 4 parts. A male, a female and 2 washers. Center the washers on top of the two dots you made in step 12. Use a pen to mark the two lines on either side of the dot. Carefully use a small pair of scissors to snip part of the lines so that you will be able to put your snap through. (A seam ripper can work for this too.) You do not need to cut the entire line and smaller is better on this part as you will be able to expand the cut more if needed to push the snap through.
14. Push the correct snap (male or female) through the fabric and interfacing so that the prongs stick out the back.
15. Put the washer on and press the prongs down toward the outside.
Repeat for the 2nd snap part.
The next few steps involve folding the body of your clutch together. Follow the pictures as they help to show what you need to do. This may seem a bit different from what you are used to but the only complicated part is folding. You’ll be amazed at how easy this will all come together
16. Start with your piece face up.
17. Fold the right side over so the fold is at line b.
18. Fold back the part you just folded so that the end goes a bit past b and you have created a new fold at line c.
19. The last fold is to take the left size and fold it all the way over to the right and make the fold at line a.
20. Put lots of pins in to hold everything in place.
21. One last step before we sew this all together. Measure in 1 1/2 inches from each side at the top and mark it with a pen or pencil. Measure down 2 1/2 inches on each side and mark this as well. Draw a line to connect the two dots.
22. Sew a ¼ seam on the left and right sides pivoting at the line you just drew. It helps to switch to a walking foot (dual feed) and go slow as you are sewing through many layers at some points.
23. Trim the top corners off.
24. Take your 7″ x 4″ piece of fusible web and fuse it to the top of your piece. The metal will get hot so be careful not to touch it!
24. Pin the open seam at the bottom and sew 2″ in along the bottom on each side with a 3/16″ seam so that you do not catch the folded piece in the seam. This should leave a good size opening to turn your piece.
25. Once you have sewn both sizes it is time to turn. Clip your corners a bit, take the paper off the fusible you ironed in step 24 and then turn the piece right side out. Poke out all 6 corners. I’ve found that a mechanical pencil with the lead pushed in works well.
26. Iron the top flap flat. The fusible will hold it all together. You may need to press hard with the iron since there are many layers.
27. You’ll notice that you still have raw edges at the bottom center. Fold in 3/16″ and carefully pin the seam together. Hand or machine stitch it closed. It is going to end up being on the inside so I did it by machine.
28. Now it is time to make the clutch have a bit of a flat bottom. To do this we want to sew across the bottom corners. Match the bottom seam to the side seam in one bottom corner. Pin on either side. Draw a line a little over an inch long across the piece.
29. Sew across this line to form the tucked corner. Sew very slow as there are many layers. We don’t want any broken needles as we are almost done!
Repeat for the other side. And flip the piece right side out.
You’ll end up with two neat bottom corners!
30. Put the magnetic parts together. Iron the top to make a crease for the flap to fold naturally and you are done!
See how easy that was!!
One adorable coupon clutch!
Now it is time to fill it with coupons. Print this PDF file on cardstock to make your dividers. Some may not apply to your shopping needs so print the ones that work for you. There are blank ones on the last page that you can use to add ones as well. Cut them out and put your coupons in order! You are ready to be a super savvy shopper!
Use the rest of your charm pack to make a 2nd coupon clutch for a friend! Or to make a mini version of amanda jean’s bag like i did.
I used 9 charms on each side for a 3×3 layout and didn’t trim them. So my bag pieces were 14″x14″
I also used fashion handles instead of making fabric ones. This gave me an opportunity to use my scraps from cutting the charms for the coupon clutch!
Off to the market I go!
Enjoy!
by Julie of jaybirdquilts.com!
trim each charm square down to 4.5″ square
assemble squares into a 16 patch block using a 1/4″ seam allowance, pressing well. 
repeat for other piece of patchwork.
pin and sew on the line.
trim off the triangles about 1/4″ from the marked line
open and press each side (again lengthwise) in toward the center fold line.
then fold in half and press again, which will encase the raw edges inside the handles. pin well.
to position handle, measure in 4.5″ from each side and pin handle in place. make sure that the strap is not twisted.
tack the handles onto the main body of the bag. this step saves the need for excessive pinning later on.
Also:
Trace over the letter with a pen, which transfers the marking to your project
modafabrics 