Summer Dreamin’

Hi there! It’s me again, Kaye from Miss Print! I’m so happy to be back here at the Bake Shop with my second tutorial. It’s getting pretty cold here in many parts of the northern hemisphere, so why not make a quilt to remind yourself of the beautiful colours and warm evenings of summer? This is a quilt to snuggle, cuddle, and dream under.

2 layers cakes – I used Dream On by Urban Chiks
1 bella solids layer cake – I used Snow
4 7/8 yards for backing – I used Groovy in Blue Moon from Dream On
7/8 yard for binding – I used Old School in Grass from Dream On

Select 20 squares from each of your Dream On layer cakes – the 20 squares from each layer cake should be matching, as you will need 2 matching printed squares to complete each block. You will also need 40 of the squares from your solid layer cake for a total of 80 layer cake squares.

Divide your layer cake squares into piles containing your two matching printed squares and two solid squares – these four squares will be the basis for each block.

The following directions are for one block:

On the backside of each solid square, draw a line down the middle from each point (i.e. top right point to bottom left point, and top left point to bottom right point) so that you have an X traversing the whole of the square.

Pair up one solid square and one printed square right sides together. On both sides of the lines you just drew, sew a 1/4″ seam.

Now it’s time to cut your square – this will yield 8 half square triangles (HSTs):

Do not cut down your diagonal lines quite yet. Cut your square in half so that you are left with two 10×5″ pieces.

Now cut each 10×5″ piece in half so that you are left with four 5×5″ pieces.

Cut down the diagonal line on each 5×5″ square. Press your seams toward the printed fabric.

Repeat with your remaining solid and printed square. Each finished HST should measure 4.5″ square (trim if necessary).

Lay out your 16 HSTs as shown in the picture below.

Sew your HSTs together row by row.

Sews the rows together to form your block. Look at that… your block is done! Your block should now measure 16.5″ square (to finish at 16″ square).

Repeat the above steps with the rest of your block piles.

Lay your blocks out in a 4×5 grid and sew into rows. Now sew your rows together and your quilt top is done!

Sandwich, baste, quilt, bind and you’re done!

 Finished quilt will measure 64×80″.

Since there are enough printed layer cake squares left to make a second quilt (obviously you will need to double the rest of the ingredients), why not swap squares with a friend so that you can each make two quilts but with different fabrics? Or get a little funky and incorporate some of your extra squares into a pieced back? I’m sure you won’t be short on ideas for how to use that awesome leftover yumminess!

Kaye Prince
{Miss Print}

Spring Dreams

I’m back for round two in the Moda Bake Shop! I’m dreaming of throwing as many little posies into these baskets as I can and I’d really love it if you could join me.
    – Marlene Biles – Sipiweske Quilts

1 – “Dream On” layer cake by Urban Chiks
2 yards background fabric
.75 yards binding fabric (adjust amount if making bias binding)
3 yards of backing fabric
1 yard fusible web (Heat and Bond Lite)
55” x 55” batting

72 Buttons (assorted sizes)

From the layer cake, choose 3 or 4 green prints and set these aside to use for stems and leaves. Also choose 11 additional prints for the borders and set aside. Flower shapes will be cut from some of the remaining squares so if there are a few special ones that you want to use for flowers only, set these aside also.

Choose 12 prints from the layer cake to use for the basket blocks.
From each of these 12 prints, cut 1 – 4 1/2” x 10“ strip and 1 – 5 1/2” x 10“ strip. Set the 5 1/2” strips aside.

Sub-cut 9 of the 4 1/2” x 10” strips as follows:
* 1 – 4 1/2” x 4 1/2” square. Cut this square twice on the diagonal to make the basket triangles (Unit “B”)
* 1 – 2 1/2” x 5 1/2” strip, then sub-cut it into 2 – 2 1/2” x 2 1/2” squares (Unit “A”) for basket. You will have a 1/2” x 2 1/2” strip leftover to add to your scrap stash)
* 1 – 2” x 5 1/2” strip (set aside for border)

Sub-cut the remaining 3 – 4 1/2” x 10“ strips as follows:
* 2 – 4 1/2” x 4 1/2” squares. Cut each of these squares twice on the diagonal to make the basket triangles (Unit “B”). You will have a 1” x 4 1/2” strip leftover to add to your scrap stash.


Using all 12 of the 5 1/2” x 10“ strips that were previously set aside:
Trace 12 scalloped handles (Unit “C”) from the attached template onto the paper side of the fusible web.

Cut and trim shapes roughly 1/8” – 3/8” from traced edges.

Fuse a handle shape (Unit “C”) to the wrong side of each of the remaining 5 1/2” x 10” strips ensuring that the top edge of the handle shape is very close to the edge of the fabric and as far to the right side of the fabric as possible (photo shows right side of fabric for demonstration purposes only).

Cut out the handle shapes on drawn lines.  (See diagram, prior to fusing to ensure proper placement).

Once the handles have all been cut out and using the remaining fabric pieces from this same strip, cut the following:

*cut 2 – 2 1/2” x 2 1/2” squares (Unit “A”) for baskets;
*cut 1 – 1 1/2” x 5 1/2” rectangle (set aside for border).


From each of 9 of the 12 squares you will have cut:

*1 – scalloped handle
*4 – 2 1/2” x 2 1/2” squares
*1 – 1 1/2” x 5 1/2” strips for border
*1 – 2” x 5 1/2” strips for border
*1 – 4 1/2” x 4 1/2” squares, cut twice on diagonal (36 triangles).

From each of 3 of the 12 squares you will have cut:

*1 – scalloped handle
*2 – 2 1/2” x 2 1/2“ squares
*1 – 1 1/2” x 5 1/2“ strips for border
*2 – 4 1/2” x 4 1/2” squares, cut twice on diagonal (24 triangles).

Background Fabric –

Basket background:

Unit “D” – Sides
*cut 4 – 2 1/2” x 42” strips
– sub-cut into 24 – 2 1/2” x 7” rectangles

Unit “E” – Bottom
*cut 1 – 5” x 42” strip
– sub-cut into 6 – 5” x 5” squares
– cut once on the diagonal (12 triangles)

Unit “F” – Handle Foundation:
*cut 2 – 11” x 42” strips
– sub-cut into 6 – 11” x 11” squares
– cut once on the diagonal (12 triangles)

Unit “G” – Side and Corner Triangles (see diagram below for layout):
*cut 2 – 15 1/2” x 42” strips
– sub-cut into 3 – 15 1/2” x 15 1/2” squares
– cut twice on the diagonal (12 triangles)

Arrange the 2 1/2” x 2 1/2” squares (Unit “A”) and the cut triangles (Unit “B”) into twelve scrappy baskets.
Position the 2 1/2” x 7” rectangles (Unit “D”) along basket edges as shown in above diagram.

Sew triangles (Unit “B”) for the feet of the basket to the 2 1/2” x 7” background strips (Unit “D”) as shown in the diagram. 
Sew the basket triangles (Unit “B”) and squares (Unit “A”) together in diagonal rows. 
Sew one side unit (D and B) to one side. Press. Repeat for the other side to complete the basket unit.
Trim the top edge of the basket as shown, ensuring that the 1/4” seam allowance is maintained along the top.
Trim the bottom edge of the basket in the same manner, ensuring that the 1/4” seam allowance is once again maintained.

Fold one of the previously cut background triangles (Unit “E”) in half and gently crease.  Line the crease up with the centre point of the basket base.  Pin and stitch in place.  Repeat for all 12 baskets. Press.

Handles – Remove backing from fusible web on the handle (Unit “C”) and centre on the 1/2 square triangle background unit (Unit “F”).  Press in place and blanket stitch around both sides of the handle.
Stems – Each basket will require a 2 1/4”, a 3” and a 3 3/4” stem made from bias strips (adjust lengths as needed). There are two methods I use to make stems. For the fusible method cut fusible web 3” x 10” and press to the wrong side of a 10“ x 10” green print square. Cut into 1/4” strips. Cut to desired lengths and press in place to the basket foundation unit. Using matching thread, blanket stitch down both sides of stem.

If you prefer to use a bias tool, adjust your measurements as needed.  I cut 1/2” strips and used a 1/4” bias tape maker as shown in the above photo.  Pin in place and using matching thread, blanket stitch down both sides of stem.
Flowers and Leaves – Trace the required number of shapes onto fusible web and fuse to wrong side of chosen prints.  Cut out on drawn lines and position as shown in cover photo.  Fuse in place.
Sew the completed Unit “F” appliqued blocks to the basket units and gently press seams. Square up the blocks to measure 10 1/2” x 10 1/2”.
Lay out the prepared blocks and side and corner triangles as shown in the diagram below. Sew together in diagonal rows and then sew rows together, carefully matching the seams for each row.

Borders – From the original 12 basket squares you should have cut and set aside the following:
*12 – 1 1/2” x 5 1/2” strips;
*12 – 2” x 5 1/2” strips.
Using the 11 additional 10” x 10” squares from your layer cake and cut as follows:
– cut the 10” square in half creating 2 – 5” x 10” strips;
– stack these strips together, aligning all edges and cut into 8 – 2 1/2” x 5” strips.
Randomly take all of these strips and start sewing them into: pairs, fours, eights, and so on, until you have four strips that measure the length of each of the four sides of the quilt. Some of the strips will be 5 1/2” instead of the 5” and these can be cut down prior to finishing.
I created four – 5” x 5” squares to use as corner squares so that my corner seam lined up with the quilt corners. You could also choose to make two strips the length of the top and bottom edges of the quilt and stitch these in place and then measure the remaining two sides and cut two more strips that measurement.
Binding – Measure the side of your quilt and multiple by four.  Divide this number by 42” (width of fabric) and using the number you get, round up to the nearest whole number.  This is the number of 2 1/4” strips you need to cut for binding strips.  Using a diagonal seam, stitch these strips into a long continuous unit.  Press strip in half with wrong sides together.  Stitch to the right side of the quilt, aligning raw edges as you go and mitering corners as you come to them.  Turn edge over to the back side of the quilt and hand stitch in place.
Make a flower label and attach with pride!  Enjoy your baskets and dream for an early Spring!!!

One very dreamy 51″ x 51″ quilt.

I have also made two of these blocks into a small tablerunner and have used rick rack stems instead of bias stems and yo-yo flowers instead of appliqued ones.  Stop over and have a peek here to see the different option and if you leave a comment on that post you might also win the tablerunner!

Marlene Biles

Vintage Dreams Quilt

Hi there!  I’m Amy from Amy’s Creative Side, where I’m gearing up for the next installment of Blogger’s Quilt Festival.  Stop over and learn what it’s all about. I’m excited to share my quilt project here with you today (it’s my first MBS tutorial!!).  These soft prints from Urban Chiks inspired me to look through vintage quilting books and design this quilt, with a nod to our rich quilting heritage.  I hope you give it a try, and share your pictures!

Dream On  Layer Cake
5/8 yard Grass 31064-24 for center squares
2 yards Blue Moon 31065-14 for triangles
2 yards Crush 31063-21 for inner border
2 3/4 yards Pink Passion 31061-11 for outer border
3/4 yard Grass 31062-13 for binding
6 yards Moonlight Blue 31067-16 for backing

To make 30 blocks, select 30 layers from your Layer Cake, and cut 4 – 4 3/4″ squares from each.  I chose the layers with the most contrast to the yardage that I added.

Cut 30 – 4 3/4″ squares from the green floral

Cut 60 – 4″ squares, then cut on the diagonal once.

Cut 30 – 7 1/4″ squares, then cut on the diagonal twice.

Lay out pieces in block formation.

Working on the diagonal, using 1/4″ seams, sew the 3 squares together in the center, and the quarter-triangles on both sides of the individual square.

Next, add the half-triangle to the corners.

Trim the center piece, pin and sew the sides in place.

Trim and square each block to 12 1/2″ – using my 12 1/2″ ruler, I lined up my center points at 6 1/4″ to ensure square blocks.

Lay out your blocks 5 across and 6 down.  Sew the blocks into rows, and the rows into a complete quilt top.

Cut borders from the length of fabric, at 3 1/2″ for the inner, and 6 1/2″ for the outer border.  Measure through the center of the quilt top for the best fitting borders.  Add the borders to the sides, then top and bottom.

Quilt, bind and enjoy your new quilt!

1 – 78″x 90″ Vintage Dream Quilt

What do you think?  Any Vintage Dreams in your future?  I hope so!
Happy Quilting!

Summer Pinwheels

Hi! We are two sisters who love fabric. Our company is called The Sproutz Store. Check out our blog for great ideas and our ETSY shop for awesome patterns, and fabrics! We hope you enjoy this tutorial for pinwheels. We think they work great for a fun summer centerpiece.

1 layer cake (we used “Dream On” by Urban Chiks)
Heavy weight double-sided fusible interfacing
Eraser (the kind that fits on the end of a pencil)


1. Choose (2) 10″ squares from your layer cake for each pinwheel you would like to make.

2. Trim interfacing so it is slightly smaller than your 10″ squares of fabric. We trimmed ours to 9 3/4″.
3. At the ironing board, lay one fabric square right side down and center your interfacing on top. Put your other 10″ fabric square on top of the interfacing right side up. Press until the interfacing is securely attached to the fabric.

4. Trim your squares so that all edges (bottom fabric, interfacing, and top fabric) are even. Make sure you still have a perfect square.

5. From each corner, measure 4 1/2″ diagonally to the center and mark. Repeat 3 times. These will be your cutting lines.
6. Cut on lines.

7. Bring every other corner to the center to make your pinwheel shape. Stick a pushpin through the center to secure all four corners.
8. Put your eraser on the end of the dowel and push the pin through. Bend the pin down or trim so it won’t be too pokey. If your eraser won’t stay on the dowel, use some hot glue to secure.

9. Add a button to the center of the front of your pinwheel. We used hot glue to secure the button.

You are done!

Note: You can also use a charm square to make smaller pinwheels. Use a medium to heavy weight double-sided fusible interfacing. You will need to measure and mark 2 1/2″ diagonally from each corner and then trim. You could also trim down some Layer Cake squares to make various sized pinwheels.

1 pinwheel.