Hot Cross Candy Runner


Hello again!  This is Darci and Lacey from Pastthyme Patterns with a really quick and easy table runner project using those ever popular candy squares!!  This project comes just in time for the holidays.  It is fast project to complete for that last minute holiday gift. . .or final decoration on your holiday table.  Finished project measures approximately 12″ x 28″ in size.

 To follow more of our quilting adventures you can visit our website www.shadesofpast.com where you will find links to our Pastthyme Patterns collection, blog, Facebook page and online site where kits of this fun project can be found!!

 2 candy packs
1/4 yard- Binding
1/2 yard- Backing
1 roll- Chenille-It Blooming Bias (3/8″ width)

Begin by opening up those cute candy squares and laying them out in a 6 down by 14 across layout (as shown above)  Sew together the rows to create your table runner quilt top.

Now that our quilt top is sewn together it’s time to layer it up with your batting and backing.  (As you can see in our photo we spray baste our quilt tops–feel free to baste your runner to the batting and backing as you prefer!!)
Now we are going to add the Chenille-It. . .you know that fun fuzzy stuff!!  By putting this on the layered runner you will essentially be “quilting as you sew” the Chenille-It on. 
 Before I explain how to add the Chenille-It on the runner I want to point out a couple helpful hints.  Remember that just like the package states, the Chenille-It is cut on the bias.  It will stretch out if you pull on it while you sew, while I think over-stretching this is impossible for this project I suggest stretching it in moderation.  It is also spliced together so that you get one long continuous 25-yard roll.  You will notice that there is a “right” and “wrong” side to the splice.  Ideally you want that splice to be raw edges down but DO NOT WORRY if you end up getting your piece twisted and it ends up being right sides up.  When you rag up the Chenille-It, nobody will ever be able to spot where that splice is!!  (Trust us…we speak from experience!!) It’s not worth the ripping time!
 Now the fun part! Place your table runner on a nice, flat surface and grab your Chenille-It and scissors. Referring to the photo above you will notice that we opted to skip every other row.  We did this on purpose to sort of give this project a lattice effect.  You can pick any of the four corners you choose to begin with.  (I am going to direct you from the upper right)  Skip the upper right square. Place the start of your Chenille-It in the upper left corner of the second square and run it down, diagonally to the bottom second lower right square and cut flush.   Skip the next square. Again place the start of the Chenille-It in the upper left corner of the fourth square and run it down, diagonally to the bottom right corner of the fourth lower right square.  Now carefully bring your runner, with the Chenille-It strips over to your machine to be stitched in place.
Stitching of the Chenille-It is quite simple.  Make sure you use thread to coordinate with your Chenille-It color to help camouflage any stitches once the project is complete and simply stitch a straight seam down the center of your Chenille-It strip.  You do not need to backstitch at the beginning and end of the strip as the edges will be covered up in the binding.  Also don’t get to hung up on having your seam smack dab in the middle. . .if it’s a little off it will be just fine in the end as it will be masked by the ragginess.  Tip:  We find that because we are working with a 3/8″ width of Chenille-It that a quarter-inch sewing foot (or walking foot) works the best for sewing this stuff down.   When we use either of those feet we find that you don’t need to do any pinning because the foot holds the Chenille-It in place during the stitching.  Play around with it while you sew and do what works best for you!!
This is what your first Chenille-It strip will look like once you get your seam sewn.  As you can see my line isn’t perfectly straight. . .but is in flows through the center of the Chenille-It strip.  If yours looks like this, ya did well and it’s time to continue on!!
Continue to add Chenille-It strips like you just did in the steps above to the remainder of your table runner.  Make sure you skip a square in-between your Chenille strips.  When you are finished you should have something in front of you that looks like this.
Now if you are like me you will make a quick detour to the kitchen to grab a can of Coke and couple cookies or chips before grabbing the roll of Chenille-It again. . .
To finish up the runner top we are going to add some more Chenille-It.  You will note that we will be adding these going the opposite direction, but following the same format as last time.  For purposes of explaining I am going to direct you from the upper left corner, as shown above.
 Just like last time, you are going to skip the upper left corner.  Begin by laying the start of your Chenille-It strip on the lower left corner of the second square and roll it up diagonally to the upper right corner on the second square at the top and cut flush.  Again, you will skip a square.  Start the end of your Chenille-It strip at the lower left corner of the fourth square and again roll it up diagonally to the upper right corner of the fourth square at the top and cut flush.  Again, carefully bring your runner back to the sewing machine and stitch the Chenille-It strips in place.
Once you have those first two strips sewn you you should see something similar to this in front of you.  Continue to add strips to the project like you did in the steps above.  Again make sure you skip a square in-between your Chenille-It strips.
Once you have your Chenille-It strips all sewn down in place your table runner should look like the picture shown above.  Again, if it does, ya did well and you can trim off that excess batting and backing!!
Almost done!!  Now you get to add the binding.  Cut (3) 2 1/2″ strips for your binding.  Sew the binding onto your quilt top.  We chose to put it down hand, so if you choose to do that as well you might want to choose a movie (or TV show) and plop that binding on down. 
Now. . .the final step.  
Referencing a line from the movie “Leap Year” you can just “put it (bound table runner) in the wash.  It’ll be grand!”  Following the manufactures directions you will want to put it into the machine and wash it on a cold cycle.  You can pick up where you left off in that movie you were watching until the machine is done washing.  When the washer is done, simply toss it into the dryer and dry on a warm setting.  Finish up that move just in time for the dryer to end it’s cycle and check out your new project!
Your yield will be one “Hot Cross Candy” runner. . .perfect for a holiday gift or accessory to your table!  Your table runner will measure 12″ x 28″ upon completion.
Remember that the sky is the limit with colors.  Chenille-It comes in all sorts of fun colors to accent any project from Kansas Troubles to Bonnie & Camille and any other Moda designer’s color palate in-between!!

See?!  Even Nature’s Christmas by Sandy Gervais makes up a cute runner!

Darci Schipnewski
{www.shadesofpast.com}

Patchwork Life Quilt


Hi, I’m Sarah Price from It’s Sew Emma, and I’m really glad to share with you my first pattern on Moda Bake Shop. This quilt is all about warmth and comfort, a simple design that is captivating in rich colors. I hope you enjoy it! Let’s get started.

If you enjoy my version using Pheasant Hill, we have some quilt kits ready to go at Fat Quarter Shop!

Two Pheasant Hill Charm Packs
3/8 yard brown print for inner borders − I used brown Feather Grass Yardage SKU# 9382-16
5/8 yard tonal tan print for middle borders − I used tonal tan Feather Grass Yardage SKU# 9382-21
2 yards for mitered outer borders − I used navy Pheasant Row Yardage SKU# 9380-12
5/8 yard for binding − I used navy Turkey Tracks Yardage SKU# 9384-12
3 1/2 yards for backing


Cutting:

Select and set aside 8 matching pairs (the same print from each charm pack) of dark charm squares for half square triangle units.

Select another 8 matching pairs (the same print from each charm pack) of dark charm squares for four-patch units. From 16 dark charm squares, cut the following:

  • 4 – 2 1/2″ squares, for a total of 64 – 2 1/2″ squares

Select 8 matching pairs (the same print from each charm pack) of light charm squares for four-patch units. From 16 light charm squares, cut the following:

  • 4 – 2 1/2″ squares, for a total of 64 – 2 1/2″ squares

From your inner border fabric, cut the following:

  • 2 – 2″ x 32 1/2″ strips
  • 2 – 2″ x 35 1/2″ strips

From your middle border fabric, cut the following:

  • 2 – 3 1/2″ x 35 1/2″ strips
  • 2 – 3 1/2″ x 41 1/2″ strips

From your outer border fabric, cut the following:

  • 4 – 5 3/4″ strips, cut from length of fabric (refer to photo in instructions before cutting)

From your binding fabric, cut the following:

  • 7 – 2 1/2″ x WOF (width of fabric) strips

Piecing:

1. Assemble two matching 2 1/2″ dark print squares and two matching 2 1/2″ light print squares as shown. Press towards the dark print fabrics. Four-patch unit should measure 4 1/2″ x 4 1/2″. Make four four-patch units from each pair. Make 32 total.

2. From the 8 matching pairs of dark charm squares you set aside, pair a matching pair with another matching pair for four sets of charm squares. From each set, draw a diagonal line on the wrong side of one matching pair. With right sides facing, layer a 5″ dark print square with a different 5″ dark print square from the set. Stitch 1/4″ from each side of the drawn line. Cut apart on the marked line. Press towards the darker print. Trim the half-square triangle units to measure 4 1/2″ x 4 1/2″. Repeat to make four units from each set. Make 32 total.

3. Assemble two identical 4 1/2″ four-patch units and two identical 4 1/2″ half-square triangle units as shown. Patchwork block should measure 8 1/2″ x 8 1/2″. Make two from each pair. Make 16 blocks total.

4. Assemble quilt center as shown. Quilt center should measure 32 1/2″ x 32 1/2″.

5. Attach inner side borders using 2″ x 32 1/2″ brown print strips. Attach inner top and bottom borders using 2″ x 35 1/2″ brown print strips.

6. Attach middle side borders using 3 1/2″ x 35 1/2″ tonal tan print strips. Attach middle top and bottom borders using 3 1/2″ x 41 1/2″ tonal tan print strips.

7. Cut four 5 3/4″ strips along the length of the fabric as shown for the outer border.

8. Attach all four borders to the quilt, repeating the following steps for each side. First, mark the center of the middle border. Mark the center of the 5 3/4” wide outer border. Match center marks and pin the border in place by starting in the center.

9. Sew the outer border to the quilt by beginning and ending 1/4” from the edge of the quilt. Backstitch at the beginning and ending of stitching to secure stitching. If your measurements have been accurate your stitched seam should measure 41”. If your measurement varies slightly, that is ok, but the same measurement needs to be used for every side to ensure your quilt is square.

10. All four borders are now attached and the tails of each border are hanging free.

11. Place one border on top of an adjacent border by folding one corner of the quilt diagonally with right sides together. This can be achieved by folding the entire quilt into a large triangle.

12. Match up outside raw edges of the border and pin in place.

13. Using a ruler with a 45 degree angle marking, draw a line from the end of stitches to the outside edge of border as shown.

14. Stitch along the marked line, starting on the side attached to the quilt center at the end of the stitch from step 9. End the stitchng on the outer edge of the quilt.

15. Backstitch at the beginning and end of stitching to secure stitching. Press open and trim 1/4” away from seam. You have just finished a mitered outer border!

Quilting & Binding

Piece 2 1/2″ navy print strips end to end for binding. Quilt and bind as desired.


A radiant 52″ square quilt!

Sarah Price
{www.itssewemma.com}

Clover Cake Quilt



Mom and I are so excited to be bringing you our fourth recipe.  This one uses the lovely Cattails & Clover by Kansas Troubles which is absolutely gorgeous and a Bella Solid layer cake.  This quilt finishes around 80 x 80 inches.

Enjoy!
Mickey & April

sweetwater cotton shoppe

1 Cattails & Clover Layer Cake

1 Bella Solid Layer Cake Natural
1 yard brown for setting triangles
1 1/2 yards gold for outer border
5/8 yard woven for binding
5 yards backing
90 x 90 inches batting


From 41 of the prints in the layer cake cut the following (do NOT cut into strips cut each separately):
5 ⅞ inch square
3—3 inch squares

Cut 5 ⅞ inch square in half diagonally once.

From 41 of the squares in the natural layer cake cut the following (do NOT cut into strips cut each separately):
3—3 inch squares
4—3 inch squares
2—3 ¼ inch squares

Cut 2—3 ¼ inch squares in half diagonally once.

Piece together half square triangles using the 3 inch squares.  For a total of 6.
(place squares face to face…draw a line diagonally and stitch a ¼ inch seam allowance and cut along the drawn line)

….these pictures would NOT load…

Piece together blocks as follows for a total of 41 blocks.

From the setting triangle fabric cut 2—15 ½ x 44 inch strips cut into 4—15 ½ inch squares cut in half diagonally twice (setting triangles) and 2—8 inch squares cut in half diagonally once (corners).

Layout quilt as in picture 5 x 5.

Cut 8—6 x 44 inch strips for wide border.  Piece together 4—6 x 88 inch strips then piece to sides first then top and bottom.

Cut backing in half and piece together to measure 86 x 90 inches.

Layer quilt with backing and batting and quilt as desired.  I machine quilted Clover Cake with a variagated thread in an over-lapping free-style meander.
***I machine quilt on a Juki, so i do not have a stitch regulator which makes some stitches longer.***

From the binding print cut 8—2 ¼ inch strips. 

Piece strips end to end.

Stitch strips down.

Roll strip around edge and stitch binding down–or hand stitch down on back.

1 Clover Cake Quilt measuring 80 x 80 inches.

Thanks for checking out our recipe. Be sure to check out our blog at {sweetwater cotton shoppe}.
If you are interested in purchasing a Clover Cake Quilt kit…visit our {online shop}.
happy quilting!
mickey & april

Buttons and Bows Table Runner


Hi, my name is Michelle and I enjoy all kinds of Quilty Stuff. That’s the name of my blog and I hope you will join me at www.QuiltyStuff.com for all sorts of things related to quilting. 

I especially enjoy embellishing quilted projects like this small runner or wall hanging I call “Buttons and Bows”.


1 Moda Charm Pack (I used Harvest Moon by Kansas Troubles.)
3/4 yd fabric for backing and binding (Pattern 9372)
18″ x 36″ piece of batting


Green Embroidery Thread
15-20 assorted 1/2″ buttons
Something round to trace around (a cover to a canning jar works great or a glass drinking cup.)
Erasable marking pen

Getting Started: 

Divide your charm pack into 2 piles, one for lights, one for darks.
Choose:  

  • 12 light charms 
  • 24 dark charms  (Try to have even numbers for your colors.  For instance 4 blues, 6 reds, 8 greens, etc. This will make block construction easier later.) 

Cutting:  

From the 11 light charms:

  • 3 – For Block Centers          
    • Cut down to 4 ½” x 4 ½” squares
  • 3 – For Block Corners
    • Cut each square into 4  2 ½” x 2 ½” squares (Total 12 squares)

  • 6 – For Borders
    • Cut each square into 3  1 ½” x 5” rectangles (Total 18 rectangles)

From the 24 dark charms

  • From each square cut 
    • 1   ½” x 5″ rectangle  (reserve for outer border)
    • 1   2 ½” x 2 ½” square
    • 1   1 ¾” x 1 ¾” square 

Planning: 

This step will reveal how picky you are about your colors. I tried to make each bow a certain color. 
This is why you wanted even numbers of charm squares for each color above. I like to layout my block before sewing it to make sure I like the color placement. 
This would look wonderful all scrappy too. 

In fact, I do all three blocks before I ever sew anything.

 
Don’t ask for help from others. 


Piecing: The real fun begins!

Piece three blocks. Each in the following order.
1. Construct your center square. For each center you need:
        1 – 4 ½” square (light)
        4 – 1 ¾” squares (darks)

On the wrong side of each 1 ¾” square draw a diagonal line from corner to corner using a pen or other marking device.  
Sew directly on the line.
Press the corner back and cut away the excess fabric if you wish.

Make a total of 3 centers. 


Make your corners.
The corners of the block are constructed the same as above.



Piece the rest of the block as pictured below.


And finally:


Embellishments:

This part is completely optional. The runner looks great without it, but it looks even better with it, in my humble opinion. 

Trace around your canning lid or drinking glass to make a circle guide. Scatter the buttons around and stitch stems and leaves in a random way. They can radiated from the center or circle or look like they are growing out of the ground. Let your creative side take over here. 
If you don’t know how to stitch the stems you can go here for a short tutorial.





Piece all 3 blocks together. Just like in the pictures above because I forgot to take pictures before sewing them together.

Borders: 

Inner border 

Sew two 1 ½” x 5” rectangles together on the short ( 1 ½”) ends. Repeat. Sew these to either end of the runner, it will be too long. Cut down to fit. Don’t worry about matching seams or anything. 


Sew six 1 ½” x 5” rectangles together on the short ( 1 ½”) ends. Repeat. Sew these to the top and bottom of the runner. It will be too long. Cut down to fit.  Again, don’t worry about matching seams or anything. 


Repeat with the outer border using 

Three ½” x 5″ rectangles for each end and 
Seven  ½” x 5″ rectangles for the top and bottom. 


Sandwich your quilt top, batting and backing and you are ready to quilt it. 
Bind and enjoy your little masterpiece. 


One table runner or wall hanging 14″ x 30″. 


Thank you for letting me share my little project with you. I hope you have as much fun making it as I did. I’d love to see it if you make one. Stop by at www.QuiltyStuff.com and say “HI!”. 

Have a Quilty Day!!!


Michelle Sargent
{www.QuiltyStuff.com}

Moab or Sedona Quilt



Hi! I’m Michelle Marr from Michelle’s Romantic Tangle, and I’m back with my latest Bake Shop Project.

Every year when we start to talk about travelling, it seems like we’re deciding between Moab and Sedona. Something about clambering over the rough sandstone calls to all of us. As I was assembling this quilt and trying to think up a name for it, the colors started to remind me of the sandstone fins and the dark shapes of the scrubby little trees against the rocks as the sun goes down…and I started to wonder which destination we’d wind up in on our next trip… Moab or Sedona? Hop over to my blog and I’ll share some of my favorite things to do in both places.

2 Jelly Rolls Sandhill Plum, plus 1/8 yard each of six different light prints from the collection
3/4 yard fabric for binding
4 yards fabric for backing

Moab or Sedona isn’t a difficult quilt to piece, but it will take some time. This is the part where I’m obligated to warn you about measuring carefully (that is important!) and using an exact 1/4″ seam allowance. If you want everything to fit together precisely, that’s what you’re going to have to do. If, like me, you’re comfortable easing blocks together, there is a little room for error.

To get the 1 1/4″ wide strips for these blocks, you’ll be cutting your Jelly Roll strips in half lengthwise. Place the tips of the pinked edge along the 1 1/4″ line on your ruler. You’ll need every light strip as well as almost all of the fabric from the 1/8 yard cuts. You won’t be using all of the dark strips, so don’t cut them all at once, unless you have another project with narrow dark strips planned.

It’s your choice whether to cut the width of fabric strips in half or to cut them into shorter lengths before cutting in half. After losing a couple of strips to a slipped ruler, I started working with the shorter lengths.

You’ll need the following number of strips —

35 1 1/4″ x 1 1/4″ light squares
70 1 1/4″ x 1 1/4″ dark squares
70 light 2 3/4″ x 1 1/4″ strips
70 dark 2 3/4″ x 1 1/4″ strips
70 light 4 1/4″ x 1 1/4″ strips
70 dark 4 1/4″ x 1 1/4″ strips
70 light 5 3/4″ x 1 1/4″ strips
70 dark 5 3/4″ x 1 1/4″ strips
70 light 7 1/4″ x 1 1/4″ strips
70 dark 7 1/4″ x 1 1/4″ strips
70 light 8 3/4″ x 1 1/4″ strips
70 dark 8 3/4″ x 1 1/4″ strips
70 light 10 1/4″ x 1 1/4″ strips

That was more cutting than I wanted to do in one go, so I cut and assembled my own blocks in batches of seven.

To assemble the block, start with one light 1 1/4″ square. Sew dark 1 1/4″ squares to opposite edges. Press.

Sew light 2 3/4″ x 1 1/4″ strips to the long edges. Press.

Sew dark 2 3/4″ x 1 1/4″ strips along opposite sides. Press.

You’ll continue building the block by adding pairs of light and dark strips to their respective sides of the block in the following order. Press after adding each pair of strips.

light 4 1/4″ x 1 1/4″ strips
dark 4 1/4″ x 1 1/4″ strips
light 5 3/4″ x 1 1/4″ strips
dark 5 3/4″ x 1 1/4″ strips
light 7 1/4″ x 1 1/4″ strips
dark 7 1/4″ x 1 1/4″ strips
light 8 3/4″ x 1 1/4″ strips
dark 8 3/4″ x 1 1/4″ strips
light 10 1/4″ x 1 1/4″ strips

Make 35 blocks and assemble in five rows of seven as shown in the completed quilt. Quilt, bind, and decide where you’re headed for your own vacation!

One approximately 50×70″ quilt

Michelle Marr
{Michelle’s Romantic Tangle}

Indian Summer Wall Hanging

Hi! This is Kim and I’m back with a quick and easy tutorial to share with you. This wall hanging comes together quickly using triangles and there is no marking needed. All fabrics used are from Kansas Troubles Perennials collection.

6 fat quarters – 3 light, 1 medium, 2 dark coordinating prints
1st Border – 1/3 yard
2nd Border – 5/8 yard
Binding – 1/4 yard
Backing – 1 yard

The fat quarters are labeled as follows: light 1, light 2, light 3, med, dark 1, dark 2.

Determine your color order and cut as follows:

Light 1: 4 – 3 7/8″ squares
Light 2: 8 – 3 7/8″ squares
Light 3: 8 – 3 7/8″ squares
Medium: 4 – 3 7/8″ squares
Dark 1: 8 – 3/ 7/8″ squares
Dark 2: 4 – 3 7/8″ squares
1st Border: 4 – 2 1/2″ strips
2nd Border: 4 – 4 1/2″ strips
Binding: 3 – 2 1/4″ strips

Stack the squares into their own piles according to the fabric prints.

Cut all 3 7/8″ squares once on the diagonal.

Here I’ve separated them by print.

Sew all the half square triangles following photos below.
Sew 16 Unit A half square triangles.
Unit A

Sew 4 Unit B half square triangles.

Unit B
Sew 8 Unit C half square triangles.
Unit C
Sew 4 Unit D half square triangles.

Unit D
Sew 4 Unit E half square triangles.

Unit E
Take the Unit A half square triangles and place them as follows to create a pinwheel block.

Sew the half square triangles together to complete the pinwheel block. These will be the corner pinwheels for your quilt top. Sew a total of 4 blocks.

Repeat the steps above with the Unit B half square triangles to form the pinwheel block for the center of the quilt top.

Take the remaining Unit C, D and E half square triangles and place them according to the image below.

Sew the half square triangles together. These blocks will be for the outside center of the quilt top.

Sew a total of 4 blocks.

It’s time to assemble the quilt top. Place all your blocks as follows.
Sew the rows together.

Take the 1st border strips and sew them to the sides, trim excess.  Sew the remaining strips to the top and bottom of the quilt top, trim excess. Press seams towards the border.

Repeat the same steps above for the 2nd border.

Layer the quilt top, batting and backing together. Quilt as desired. Sew the binding strips together and bind using your preferred binding method.

This will make one 30″ square wall hanging or table topper. Come visit me over at my blog for more fun ideas using your leftover fabrics.

Kim Sherrod
(kimsherrodstudio.blogspot.com)

Cinnamon Pecan Turnover Quilt

The beauty of the turnovers is that when you sew two of them together, they square up to 5 inches!  This means they match up perfectly with the charm squares.  I designed this quilt with that idea in mind.  However, not all fabric lines have the turnovers, so I made this using 2 layer cakes.  You can also use charm squares.  If you did, it would take 7 charm packs.  After all, it is a queen size quilt, measuring at 83″ x 83.” 

The first thing I thought of when naming this quilt was pecan pie.  Mmmm. . . .  Pie is one of my favorite parts of the holiday season. 

Despite the size, this quilt goes together quickly.  In fact, if you were in a crunch, you could get it sewn in time for Christmas.  However, getting it quilted is another matter unless you can do it yourself.  I have heard of giving a top for Christmas and then taking it back and getting it quilted after Christmas. 

Enjoy!
Konda Luckau of Moose on the Porch Quilts


2 charm packs and 3 turnovers -OR- 2 layer cakes (I used 2 layer cakes of Wrapped in Paisley)
3-1/4 yards border fabric
3/4 yard binding fabric
6-1/4 yard backing fabric

1a) If  you are starting with layer cakes like I did, then the first step is to cut them into 5″ squares and organize the squares into 4 groups:
   48 squares for the blocks — 24 light and 24 dark
   30 squares for the border — 15 light and 15 dark
   96 dark squares (or 96 dark turnovers) for triangles in blocks
   96 light squares (or 96 light turnovers) for triangles in block
1b)  Take the 30 border squares and cut them in half so there are now 60 rectangles 2-1/2″ x 5.”  Set these aside.
1c)  Take your border fabric and cut the following:
     Cut 7 — 5″ strips and
     Cut 9 — 8-1/2″ strips
Set these border strips aside.
2) Set aside the stacks of 48 and 30.  First we need to make 96 half square triangle blocks using the two stacks of 96.  If you have turnovers, just sew any light triangle to any dark triangle.  Then make sure they measure 5.”  This may involve trimming or squaring up.  If you don’t have turnovers, you need to first draw a diagonal line on the back of all 96 light squares.

3)  Pair 1 light square with 1 dark square, right sides together.  Sew ON the line.  Repeat with all 96 light and 96 dark squares.

4)  Trim a 1/4″ seam allowance on ONE side of the line as shown below.

Yes, there is a large triangle wasted here.  As I was going, I sewed those together too.  I intended to put them together into a table topper.  I am still intending to do that — just haven’t gotten that far yet.  That’s the beauty of the turnover, no waste to get a half square triangle square that matches up with the 5″ charm square. 

BUT, the beauty of this method, is that it now measures 5″ exactly — no squaring up.

5)  Press all of the seam allowances toward the dark triangle.

6)  Now for the blocks.  There are 16 blocks — 8 dark blocks and 8 light blocks.  To sew the blocks together, you are going to use all 96 of the half square triangles and the 48 squares that were set aside for the blocks.

First the light blocks.  The light block has a light square in the corner.  Watch the placement of the dark and light of the half square triangles.

Each light block needs:
    6 half square triangles
    2 dark squares and
    1 light square

These are sewn together as shown below.

Repeat to make 8 light blocks.  Press this block any way you like, but do all the light blocks using the same method.  You need to press the dark blocks in the opposite direction.

7) The dark block is identified by the dark square in the corner.  Again watch the placement of the dark and light of your half square triangles.  It is opposite of the light blocks.

Each dark block needs:
     6 half square triangles
     1 dark square and
     2 light squares

These are sewn together as shown below.  This block picture is rotated differently from the light block.  The orientation doesn’t matter.  The blocks are just rotated.

Repeat to make 8 blocks.  Again, press seams in the opposite direction of the light blocks.

8)  Now to assemble the quilt center.  Alternate light blocks and dark blocks as shown below.  I have shown it as a black and white image to make it easier to show the block orientation.

Press.  The quilt center should measure 54-1/2″ x 54-1/2.”

9)  Take 3 of the 7 — 5″ border strips.  Sew them together.  Cut into two 54-1/2″ lengths.  Sew these lengths onto the left and right side of the quilt center.  Press. 

10)  Take the remaining 4 — 5″ border strips.  Sew two together.  Repeat.  Trim each long strip to 63-1/2″ long.  Sew these strips onto the top and bottom of the quilt center.  Press.

11)  Now for the pieced border.  Take your stack of 60 rectangles.  Sew together 4 border strips that each have 14 rectangles in them — alternating dark and light rectangles.  Each strip will use 7 dark and 7 light rectangles. Start with a dark and end with a light rectangle. 

12)  There will be 4 rectangles leftover (2 light and 2 dark).  Take these rectangles and cut them in half to make eight 2-1/2″ squares.  Four of these squares will be used for the corners and four will be left over.  Take one light square and one dark square and sew them onto either end of one of the long pieced border strips from the previous step.  Repeat with another pieced border strip.  These are the top and bottom borders. 

13)  Sew the pieced borders on as shown below.  The strips will be rotated so the dark and light alternate all the way around the quilt.  Sew the smaller strips onto the left and right first.  Then sew the longer strips onto the top and bottom.

14)  For the last border, take the nine 8-1/2″ strips.  First, sew two strips together and repeat to make 4 double strips.  Take the last strip, cut it in half, and sew it onto the end of two of the double strip sets.  Trim the double strips down to 67-1/2.”   Sew these onto the left and right of the quilt.  Press.

15)  Take the extra long strips and trim them down to 83-1/2.”  Start measuring from the cut edge of this strip.  Two strips is either barely long enough or barely not long enough.  It is really close either way and depends on your fabric if there will be enough.  If you start from the cut edge, then there will not be a seam right next to the edge of your quilt.  Sew these strips onto the top and bottom of your quilt.  Press.

16)  Yeah!  Queen size quilts are quite larger than baby quilts.  Sometimes those last borders feel like they will take forever to sew on.  Quilt and bind.  For the binding you will need nine 2-1/2″ strips. 

One beautiful queen size quilt!

Konda Luckau
{Moose on the Porch Quilts}