Tidy Linens Bag

Hi! Lisa Calle of Vintage Modern Quilts here today with a very easy project that will help you get a jump in your spring cleaning. A couple of years ago I bought a set of sheets that came with a handy little storage bag and I thought it was a great idea. The only problem? There was no way I’d ever be able to fold those sheets up as small and tidy as they were straight out of the package and they never fit into the bag again. So what’s a girl with a sewing machine and tons of fabric to do? Make my own cuter linens storage bag!

The hardest part of this project is folding that fitted sheet. I made mine for queen size sheets but it will fit king or full, as well. You may want to decrease measurements all over by 1″ to 2″ for twin sheets.

2 fat quarters (I used a pair of gray prints from V and Co.’s Color Me Happy line)
8″- 11″ of Velcro
Marking pen

Hand sewing needle and embroidery thread

Cut each of your fat quarters into a 14″ x 15″ rectangle. If you are using a directional print, the 15″ measurement is your length. From the remaining pieces of each fat quarter, cut a 6″ x 8″ rectangle. Set these smaller rectangles aside.

Sew a 1/4″ hem along the top of each large rectangle (or use a serger, if you have one).  Trim a 2½” square from the bottom left and right corners of each rectangle.

Place rectangles right sides together and sew a  ¼” seam along the sides and the bottom, leaving the top and the corners open. Be sure to back stitch at each edge. Press seams.

Box the corners of your bag to create depth. To do this, pinch the fabric together so that the seams line up as pictured.

Sew ¼” seam along each boxed corner, back stitching at the beginning and end of your seam.

To create the fold-over flap of your bag, join the small (6″ x 8″) rectangles together along the long side. Press the seam to one side. Hem all sides of the resulting rectangle.

Determine which side of the bag will be the front. Find the center of the back of the bag and match up with the center of the flap, right sides together. Sew a ¼” seam to join these sections.

Pin one strip of the Velcro along the inside of the bag flap, close to the edge. Sew ⅛” around the Velcro to attach it to the bag. Put your folded sheets in the bag and close the flap firmly, marking where the edge meets (use a removable marking pen). Remove the sheets from the bag and pin the other piece of Velcro just a hair above your mark, again sewing a ⅛” around the Velcro to attach it to the bag.

That’s it! You are done. But if you want to take this project up another notch, use embroidery floss to add some important info to the bag. Are these sheets for the guest room? Your child’s room? Or maybe just add the size.

1 tidy linens bag

Lisa Calle

Artist On-the-Go Tote


Emily here today from Em’s Scrapbag for a perfect staycation project!

4 fat quarters (I used Simply Style by V and Co.)
4 grommets
Grommet tool

From on fat quarter cut a 15 1/2″ x 20″ rectangle for cover
From another fat quarter cut a 15 1/2″ x 20″ rectangle for lining
From third fat quarter cut 2- 12 1/2″ x 9″ for pockets
From fourth fat quarter cut 2- 3 1/2″ x 12″ rectangles for crayon holders and 2- 3″ x 15″ strips for handles

On each of the pockets fold the top edge down 1/4″ twice press and stitch in place.
On each of the crayon holders fold the short ends in 1/4″ and press.
Fold down the top edge of each of your crayon holders down twice making sure that the ends stay pressed in.
Run a gathering stitch along the top and bottom of your crayon holders.
Center an 8″ ruler 2″ from the bottom of one of your pockets.  Draw an 8″ line along the top of your ruler.
Gather the unfinished edge of your crayon holder so that it fits in the 8″ marked space.  Placing right sides together pin along the line you drew and stitch in place.
Use your 8″ ruler to make marks about 2 1/4″ up from where you sewed the crayon holder on.  Bring up the crayon holder up.  Gather the finished side so it fits between the marks you made and stitch the sides in place.
Divide your crayon holder into 12 equal spaces.  Just over 5/8″ and mark.  
Sew on each of these marks through the crayon holder.  Back stitching to reinforce.
Measure 2″ from the top of your first crayon holder.  Mark your 8″ line and repeat process with second crayon holder.
On your 15 1/2″ x 20″ lining make a 12 1/2″” long line 9″ from the left side.  Place the pocket with the crayon holders right side together along the line you drew so that the 9″ is not covered by the pocket and sew 1/4″ seam.  Flip and press so that the edges of your pocket line up with the edge of your lining.
Measure 9″ from the right side and repeat process with the remaining pocket.
Place the cover over your lining piece right sides together, pin.  Starting at the bottom sew around the edge leaving an opening to turn right side out.
Press to make crisp edge around where you have sewn and to finish edge on opening. 
 Top stitch in place.
Place a ruler 1/2″ down from top edge.  Measure 3 1/4″ and 6 1/4″ from side edge place grommets here.  Following the directions with your grommet tool apply grommets.  Repeat on other side.
Fold the short ends of each handle in 1/4″.
Fold in half along the long side.
Open up and fold bottom edge into the center fold.  Press
Fold the top edge into the center fold.  Press.

insert photo

Fold in half and top stitch in place.
Place handles through grommets so ends show on cover.  
Tie a knot in each end.
Place a 24 pack of crayons in the crayon holders and a sketch pad in the other pocket.  Place the cardboard from a old sketch pad in the pocket behind the crayons to give it stability.

One artist on-the-go tote

Skittles Quilt

Hey there friends! It’s Natalia from Piece N Quilt. When I saw Vanessa’s new fabric Simply Color it just screamed to me, make something! So I’m here today to share my creation using Simply Color.
You can read more about me and my new book, Beginner’s Guide to Free-Motion Quilting, over on my blog!

2 Yards Simply Color Grey Ombre #10800
2 Yards Moda Bella Solid Steel #9900 – 184
1 Simply Color Charm Pack
4 Yards Simply Color Zig-Zag #10804 (backing)

Begin by preparing your charm pack fabric for applique. I prefer to use starch applique.
Next, cut all of the circles in the charm pack into random 2″, 3″ & 5″ circles. I used my accuquilt GO! die to cut my circles.

Now take your 2 yards of ombre fabric and find the point in the fabric where the steel fabric matches the best. cut a tiny slit and then tear the fabric. I chose to tear so that I could ensure that I had a perfectly straight cut.

From your solid steel fabric cut a piece that is 13″x 2 yards.

Lay that steel piece of fabric in the cut part of the ombre fabric. Randomly lay the circles onto the fabric, mostly on the steel fabric, and a little bit on the ombre.

Applique as many of the circles onto the steel piece as you can, then sew the steel piece into the ombre piece. Finish appliqueing all circles.

Quilt, bind and enjoy!

1 – 53″x72″ Skittles quilt.

Natalia Bonner

120-Minute Gift: Hugs and Kisses Quilted Table Runner

Quilt Top:
1 pkg. charm squares (I used a layer cake and trimmed them down to 5″ x 5″)
1/2 yd. white (a background fabric contrasting with your charm squares)
1/3 yd. inner border fabric

1/3 yd. grey or coordinating fabric

1/2 yd. grey or coordinating fabric (your runner will be reversible, so pick a fabric that looks great all by itself)

 Choose your favorite 16 squares from the charm pack. They need to be darker or bolder than your background fabric (my background fabric is white). Six of these 16 squares will be turned into X blocks, while the remaining 10 will become O blocks. If you have any large prints that you want to show off, set those in your X stack.

White Squares:
Cut your white or contrasting fabric into 20 5″ squares.

 Cutting the X Block:
Line up four X squares perfectly on top of each other. Cut a 3″ x 5″ rectangle, leaving you with another rectangle measuring 2″ x 5″, which you will set aside for a moment. Cut a 3″ square from your 3″ x 5″ rectangle. This is the center of your X block. Use the remaining pieces to cute 5 sets of 1 1/2″ squares. (You will use four of these squares in the X block and the fifth set of squares will be used in the outer border of the quilt.) Cut the remaining two charm squares the same way.

Cut 10 of your white 5″ squares in this same way as well.

Your X Block will be cut like this:

Cutting the O Block:
Line up four squares perfectly on top of each other. Just like with the X Block, cut a 3″ x 5″ rectangle, leaving you with another rectangle measuring 2″ x 5″. From your 3″ x 5″ rectangle, cut three rectangles measuring 3″ x 1 1/2″. From the 2″ x 5″ rectangle, cut one rectangle measuring 3″ x 1 1/2″. You will have a spare 1 1/2″ square that you can use in the outer border of the quilt. 
Cut 6 of your white 5″ squares in this same way as well.
Your O Block will be cut like this:
Cutting the Triangles:
With the remaining four white 5″ squares, cut across the diagonal, like this:

Cutting the Inner Border:
You will need 3 strips of the inner border, 1″ wide.
Cutting the Squares for the Outer Border:
Using the remaining uncut charm squares, come up with 130 little squares measuring 1 1/2″ x 1 1/2″. 
Ready to Sew!
Start with your X Blocks. Lay out your block like a 9 Patch. THE CONSISTENCY IN SIZE OF YOUR SEAMS IS EXTREMELY IMPORTANT! Keep it right at 1/4″. Always. 
Sew into three small rows, like this:
Press the seams away from the lighter fabric and towards the darker fabric. Then sew those three little rows together:

If you’ve pressed your seams correctly and maintained that 1/4″ seam, your pieces should nest perfectly as you sew along. 
Press these seams toward the dark center of the X Block:
Your O Blocks will be done the same way, with the exception of the direction you press the seams. Always press away from the lighter colored fabric. 

 Lay out your blocks the way you like them.

Sew into rows.

Press the first row one direction, the second row in the opposite direction, the third the same direction as the first row, etc. Then sew your rows together, remembering to nest those seams perfectly together.

It’s time to square off your corners. You want each end of your runner to be perfectly square, while the sides of your runner need to meet at a 135 degree angle, if that makes any sense at all…Like this:
Now sew on the first edge of your inner border. Cut the ends of the border strip flush with the edges of your quilt.

There needs to be 1/4″ left on the long sides of your quilt, where the white triangles are.

Add the rest of your inner border, keeping the same things in mind while cutting the edges.

Press seams away from the quilt body, towards the inner border.
For the Outer Border, sew those 130 little squares together into one enormous strip. Then add this strip the same way you added your inner border. Pull the outer border snugly as you sew along to prevent having a wavy quilt edge. 
Press seams toward the inner border, away from the outer border.
Your quilt top is finished! Sandwich your top, batting and backing and quilt away. Finish off with your binding. (For an excellent binding tutorial, visit here.)
One table runner measuring approximately 16″ x 42″.
Leah Douglas

60-Minute Gift: Herringbone Hot Pads

Combine a herringbone pattern with the popular zig zag for a fun, unique pot holder and trivet that is self binding. Or use the blocks to make a quilt! Great for Christmas gifts, teacher gifts and using up extra charm packs!

  • 1 Simply Color charm pack or charm pack of your choice
  • 1 yard of fabric for backing or four 14×14 inch squares
  • 1/2 yard batting or eight 10×10 inch squares
  • 1/2 yard insul-bright Insulating material or four 10×10 inch squares

    I’m so excited to be here! I’ve been making these hot pads like crazy! You can hop over to my blog, Melanie Dramatic, to see several other examples in various Moda lines along with a few other ideas of what you can do with this design!

    You’ll start with one charm pack! (I cut down a layer cake to 5-inch squares since that’s what I had!)
    Charm squares

    Cut your charm pack into 1 1/2 inch strips.  From one charm pack you’ll get 3 ‘sets’ of strips.

    Cut 1.5 inch strips

    I prefer to use one set at a time while sewing.  Set two groups aside and sort the first stack by color.  Having them sorted into color groups helps me make sure I’m evenly distributing the colors and patterns throughout!

    Sort into Colors

    Now it’s time to start sewing strips together using a 1/4 inch seam.

    Sewing strips

    Alternating sides, continue to add strips.  (I finger press the seams down toward the bottom of the ‘V’ as I sew….although getting up to iron each seam during the process would be better exercise…)

    Add strips Until stack is gone

    Continue sewing until your first stack is gone!  You’ll have a really fun, colorful, long herringbone strip!

    Herringbone Strip

    Iron the seams down (toward the bottom of the ‘V’). 


    Square the top and cut two 11-inch sections.  (You will have left over.  Save that to start sewing your next strip set.)  Our hot pads will be 10 inches, but that little bit of extra length allows you to perfectly match seams.

    Square top

    Next you will trim off the extra on each side.  You want each rectangle to be 5 1/2 inches x 11 inches.  I match up the 2 1/2 inch mark on my ruler with the bottom/right ‘V’ for the first cut.  Then I rotate and cut the block to 5 1/2 inches width.


    Pin your rectangles together at each seam. Seams will all face down. Do not worry about lining up the top and bottom.  Getting the seams to mach is more important!  Sew together with a 3/8 inch seam allowance.

    Pin together

    Press center seam allowance open.

    Press seam open

    Trim your block to 10 inches x 10 inches.

    block will be 10x10

    You’ll need one 14x14inch piece of fabric for the back, two 10×10 inch squares of batting and one 10×10 inch square of Insul-bright insulation.  It is a lot of layers, but I really like the extra sturdy feel this gives the hot pad – plus with the Insul-bright and extra batting, I’m not afraid to pull something out of the oven! (If you’re going to use it solely for decoration, you could use one or two layers of batting only.)

    all layers

    Place the Insul-bright in between the two layers of batting and pin all layers together.  Spray basting also works well to hold everything in place.

    Pin all layers

    Quilt as desired.  I love the look of following the seams with my 1/4 inch foot.

    Carefully even batting and top layers ONLY if needed with scissors.  Next cut off the excess backing fabric so it is 1-inch larger than the top on each side.  The unit will measure 12×12.

    Trim to size

    Fold and iron the extra inch of backing fabric in half so that it meets up with the raw edge of your hot pad.  Then fold again to the top of the hot pad and secure in place.  (I was using bobby pins at this point but my new favorite method is using school glue to hold fabric in place. Simply set with a hot dry iron!)
    self bindingself binding
    Fold your corner diagonally so that it meets with the raw edge of the next side.  Then continue by folding that edge in half and then again up onto the hot pad, just as you did on the first side.  Continue working your way around the hot pad until all four sides are ready to sew.

    self bindingself binding

    Sew binding in place.  Get your stitching as close to the inside edge of the binding as you can.  And if you’re using bobby pins or other gadgets to hold the binding in place, please be sure to remove them as you sew!  (If you switch to glue, you won’t have to worry about that anymore!)

    self binding


    One charm pack will make four hot pads.  (Use your left over strip to start sewing another set for more hot pads!)  And don’t forget to come over to my blog to see them made in other Moda fabrics and a few other projects I’ve made with these fun blocks!  I have to say, I’m sorta in love with the quilt. 🙂


    The Crinkle Quilt

    Hi! I’m Palak from Make It Handmade! My blog focuses on simplifying handmade projects and techniques with tutorials ranging from no sew projects to serger how to’s. This little quilt is no exception!

    This quilt is full of color and crinkles that babies will love. At the same time, it’s a forgiving pattern that comes together in a few hours and doesn’t require any precision piecing.  

    The finished quilt is is about 40 inches square– my favorite size baby quilt as both a mother and quilter. The size is perfect for covering a newborn or as a play mat for an infant, and doesn’t take much room in the wash. For a toddler it’s a great size for strollers and car seats, and is still large enough to be a lap quilt for a child or adult. As a quilter, I love that I don’t have to piece the backing and it’s easy to fit in the small throat of my home sewing machine.

    Quilt Top:
    1  Simply Color Layer Cake
    1 Yard Focus Print (I chose White Aquatic Blue)
    1.5 Yard  (I chose White Sweet Tangerine Chevron)
    1/2 Yard (I chose White Lime Aqua)

    The Crinkle Quilt alternates 5 inch strips of smooth fabric with pieced  ruched strips.  The texture makes errors in piecing unnoticeable  making this an easy, quick quilt that’s done without much fuss. 
    The colored strips in the diagram below are pieced ruffled; while the white ones are plain. The twist is the ruffling! With the tips you’ll learn in this tutorial, the ruffles will be a snap too. 

    Cut List (for quilt top only): 

    • Cut your focus fabric into 5 5.5″ by WOF and set aside
    • Next, pick 24 squares out of the layer cake and cut them in half to make 48 5″ by 10″ rectangles. 

    Piecing The Strips

    Divide the 48 rectangles into 4 groups of 12. Sew each group together end to end making 4 long strips as shown below. (Chain piecing makes this step go fast).
    Next, place a pin in one end of each long strip. I know this seems like a small thing, but I promise it will help with the ruffling later. From this point onward, whenever we sew, we will always start with the pinned edge going into the machine first. This will keep the ruffles looking even and keep the seam allowances from flipping up. 

    Move to the ironing board and press all the seam allowances to one side away from end with the pin. Once you’ve done all four strips, you’ll be ready to ruffle!


    We are going to use the tension method to ruffle. This method is ideal for ruffling long strips that might need slight adjustments at the end. If you are having trouble with this method, try using another ruffling method.

    Change your sewing machine to have a long stitch length and high tension.

    We’ll still need to add even more tension to get the fabric to ruffle enough to be the same size as the focus fabric strips. To do that, I hold the thread down with one finger while sewing.

    Here’s a close up of what I’m doing. You can also lightly pinch the thread through your fingers if that’s easier. Just be sure to do this between the thread spool and tension disks as shown in the picture below.

    While ruffling, make sure to pull out a long tail of both bobbin and top thread at either end of each strip. I normally use 10-12 inches to be on the safe side.

    Starting with the pinned end of the strip, sew along one edge using a 1/4 inch seam allowance.You’ll see your strip ruffle up along one edge.

    Then, starting with the pinned edge again, sew along the opposite edge. This will mean you’ll have to flip the strip over to the wrong side.

    Do this until you have 4 strips ruffled down each side. Don’t forget to change your sewing machine settings to normal.

    Now, compare each strip with the focus fabric strips that we set aside. Pull on the top sewing thread to adjust the strip to be the same length as the focus fabric strips. I also like make sure the pieced sections look like squares instead of trapezoids .

    Now for the most important step: Press the ruffled strips well and top stitch down each side of the ruffled using a quarter inch seam allowance and normal stitch length. This will stabilize your ruffled strip and keep it from shifting while you sew.  Now you can remove those pins at the ends of your strips!

    Using a 1/2 inch seam allowance, sew the strips together as normal, alternating a ruffled strip with a plain strip.

    Your top is complete and ready to be quilted!

    Finishing up 

    Quilt your Crinkle Quilt with any pattern you like. I recommend not quilting the ruffled strips–  they poof up beautifully in the wash, and are so much fun for little fingers to play in. Trim, square and bind the quilt just as you would any other quilt.

    40” by 44” quilt. Covers one sleepy child.

    Thank you for having me over at the Moda Bakeshop! Stop by at Make it Handmade to see more about this quilt and other projects.

    Palak Shah

    30-Minute Gift: Simply Colorful Coasters


    Are you ready for a quick and easy gift idea? I’m Amy DeCesare from  Pennsylvania, and I’m so happy to be the newest chef here at Moda Bake Shop! My blog is called Amy Made That!…by eamylove and I hope you’ll pop on over to visit me there. {You’re welcome to stop by any time!}

    Today I’ll show you how to make a charming set of coasters to give as cute and practical gifts. These little sweeties stitch up quickly! Once you’ve gathered your materials, you can make a set in about 30 minutes. They would make an excellent project for a beginner or even a child.{I’ve been sewing for years, and I can’t stop making these. The design possibilities are unlimited!}

    1/3 yard Bella Solid fabric {I chose Gray}
    (8) squares from a Moda Charm Pack OR(8) 3″ squares from a Moda Layer Cake {I chose a Simply Color Layer Cake}
    1/4 yard fusible interfacing, such as Pellon 987F

    Matching thread
    Iron and ironing surface
    Pinking shears


    First you will need to select your prints.
    I chose to use the blue and green colorways from my layer cake.
    {You could make all 8 coasters the same, or all different to coordinate.}

    From solid fabric, cut background and backing pieces:
    Cut (2) strips 5” x WOF
    Cut each 5” strip into (8) 5” squares, for a total of (16) 5″ squares.

    From the charm pack or layer cake, select (8) prints, and cut each into a 3” square.

    Cut (8) 3” squares.
    Cut one strip 5” x WOF: Cut into (8) 5” squares.

    Fuse the Pellon 987F as follows, using manufacturer’s directions:

    Fuse one 3” square to the back of each charm print, for a total of 8 coaster centers.
    Fuse one 5” square to the back of each of (8) of the solid  5” squares, for a total of 8 background squares.

    {The remaining (8) solid 5” squares will not have Pellon 987F fleece fused to them.}

    Center one of the 3” squares on one of the background pieces which have been fused with the 987F fleece. Pin the 3” square into place.

    Using a straight stitch, take a few stitches very close to the edge of the charm square.

    Switch to a zigzag stitch (or another decorative stitch) and sew around all 4 sides of the charm square.  When you arrive at the starting point, change back to a straight stitch and backstitch to secure the stitches.

    Now layer your finished square on top of a bottom solid square. {Your coaster will not require any turning, so place the squares just as they will appear when the project it finished.} Using a straight stitch, sew ¼” all around the outside edge of the coaster, through all layers.  Backstitch at the end to lock the stitching.

    Repeat these steps to assemble the remaining coasters.

    To finish, use pinking shears to trim near the stitching on all four sides.

    Look how cute and cushy they are, all stacked up…

    Or all fanned out! Which one will you choose?

    Use a beautiful ribbon or a fabric strip to tie your coaster set for a pretty presentation.  I used pinking shears to cut a ribbon of Bella Solid 1″ x WOF.

     8 colorful and fun coasters

    Don’t forget to make a set for yourself! And speaking of gifts….head on over to my blog Amy Made That!…by eamylove for a chance to win my latest giveaway!

    Amy DeCesare

    Simply Woven Quilt


    Hello again!  It’s Jess Kelly from SewCraftyJess.  I’m back with a super yummy quilt tutorial to share.  Now that summer has past and we’re into fall, I couldn’t help but be inspired with all the madras plaid I’ve seen this summer.  Since I love it so much for bags (I may or may not have at least 3…) and clothing, I thought why not turn it into a quilt also!  I’m digging all the bright fun colors in V & Co.’s Simply Color, but this would look great in any color palate, especially holiday colors!  If you make a quilt using this Simply Woven quilt tutorial, I’d love to see it in my flickr group and the Moda Bake Shop flickr group as well!


    2 Jelly Rolls containing at least 40 strips each-V & Co Simply Color
    2 3/8″ yard Bella Solid- white
    3/4 yard of any print for binding
    5 3/4 yards total fabric for backing
    78″ x 102″ batting

    1.  Begin by unrolling your jelly roll strips, but leaving them folded in half, wrong sides together.  Cut according to the directions below (it doesn’t matter which colors you cut which size)

    • From (24) strips cut:  (2) 8″ strips and (2) 12.5″ strips to yield 48 of each size
    • From (24) strips cut:  (4) 9.5″ strips to yield a total of 96 
    • From (32) strips cut:  (3) 11″ strips to yield a total of 96
    From the white Bella solid cut:
    • (10) 8″ x WOF
    • Subcut each 8″ strip into (10) 4″ x 8″  Will yield a total of (100) 4″ x 8″ rectangles, you will need 96 of these
    *  When sewing each block, be especially careful to sew with an accurate and consistent 1/4″ seam, as the block will not come together properly without it!
    **Edited to add:  Press all seams open 

    2.  Choose (1) 8″ jelly roll strip and sew (2) 4″ x 8″ pieces of the Bella white along each long edge of the jelly roll strip


    3.  Rotate so the jelly roll strip runs horizontally, and cut in half vertically.  You should now have (2) sections measuring 4″ x 9.5″


    4.  Piece each long edge from step 3 along each long edge of one 9.5″ jelly roll strip (of a different color preferably)


    5.  Again rotate so the jelly roll strip pieced in step 4 is arranged horizontally.  Measure 2.25″ from one edge of the vertical center (purple strip in my example).  Cut so you now have the main section measuring 8″ x 9.5″ and one small section measuring 1.5″ x 9.5″


    6.  Choose a 9.5″ jelly roll strip and piece between your two cut sections, like described in step 4.


    7.  Rotate so that the jelly roll strip pieced in step 6 is now arranged horizontally.  Now measure 2.25″ from one edge of the vertical center strip (pink strip in my example).  Cut so you now have one main panel measuring 8″ x 11″


    8.  Choose an 11″ jelly roll strip and piece between your two cut sections like described in step 4.


    9.  Rotate so that the jelly roll strip pieced in step 8 is now arranged horizontally.  Now measure 2.25″ from the edge of the vertical center strip (purple strip in my example) that you have not pieced a jelly roll strip into.  Cut so you now have one main panel measuring 9.5″ x 11″ and one strip measuring 1.5″ x 11″


    10.  Choose an 11″ jelly roll strip and piece between your two cut sections like described in step 4.


    11.  Rotate so the jelly roll strip pieced in step 10 is arranged horizontally.  Measure 2.25″ from the edge of your vertical center strip (pink strip in my example).  Cut so you now have one main piece measuring 9.5″ x 12.5″ and one piece measuring 1.5″ x 12.5″


    12.  Choose a 12.5″ jelly roll strip and piece between your two cut sections like described in step 4.  You should now have a block measuring 12.5″ square with three intersecting jelly roll strips running both horizontally and vertically.

    13.  Repeat this process until you have (48) 12.5″ blocks.


    14.  Arrange as you please in (8) rows of (6) blocks each.  (*Edited to add: I did rotate my blocks at random to get that “interwoven” look.  The best way to get a similar look is to lay out your blocks on a design wall or the floor, and rotate blocks at random until you have a design that is pleasing to you!)  Sew each of the (8) rows together.  Stand back and admire your generous twin sized quilt!


    17.  Baste, Quilt and Bind as desired.


    One generous twin sized quilt measuring 72″ x 96″


    Jessica Kelly

    Paint Chip Placemats

    For each placemat you will need:
    1/2 yard Ombre Solid by V and Co. for Moda Fabrics
    6″” x 42″ of Moda Bella solid white
    1 fat quarter coordinating print

    Embroidery floss and supplies

    Press your 1/2 yard ombre fabric and lay out on your cutting mat horizontally.

    Trim the selvedge from the darkest end and cut a strip 4 3/4″ wide.
    (Your piece will be 4 3/4″ x 18″)

    Next find the lightest part of the fabric. It should be right on the fold. With the lightest color of fabric in the middle, cut another strip 4 3/4″ wide.
    Using the fabric between the two strips you just cut, find the area of fabric with the biggest color difference. I eyeballed this and then cut two 4 3/4″ strips- one from each area.
    (There was anywhere from 1 1/4″ to 1 3/4″ between each each strip)
    Trim each strip to 14″ in length then lay out your 4 strips in order from darkest to lightest. 
    From the white fabric cut (2) 2 1/2″ x WOF strips and (1) 1″ x WOF strip.
    Set aside the 2 1/2″ strips for Binding. Cut the 1″ strip into (3)  1″ x 14″ strips
    Begin sewing a 1″ white strip to the right side of 3 color sections as shown above. Use a 1/4″ seam. Press towards the Ombre fabric.
    Making sure the colors stay in order, continue sewing sections until all are together.
    After the placemat top is together you can add “color names” if you want. I designated a placemat for each member of my family and then chose color names that fit that person. My daughter has the pink placemat so I used color names such as “Lip Smacker” and “Pinkalicious” to personalize it for her. Use your creativity or find color names online from a paint store.
    Write the names in the bottom left of each section using a Frixion pen (the kind that disappear when ironed). Layer with a 80/20 batting and embroider using a backstich and thread of your choice.
    (I used white thread and the color names are hard to read in the lighter colors)
    Finish the placemat by sandwiching the placemat top, 80/20 batting, and coordinating fat quarter for the back. Baste or pin then quilt. I used not-so-straight line quilting in each section.
    Bind using the 2 1/2″ strips cut earlier from the white fabric.
    And you’re done!  :o)
    Now you can go back and make one from each color!!!

    1 gorgeous Paint Chip Placemat!

    Thanks for joining me!  Don’t forget to come visit me on my blog: Crazy Old Ladies Quilts.
    Credit for inspiration of this fabulous project goes to Avril Loreti. Visit her Etsy shop to see her other amazing creations.

    Emily Herrick