Marmalade Squares (Two!) Quilt

Author’s Note: Thanks to readers who found errors in the tutorial. They have been fixed on the website but not pdf download.  I will post here when the download has been fixed. Apologies and thanks. 

A note from Oda May: Marmalade Squares is a popular name! I’ve called this version Marmalade Squares (Two!) so we won’t be confuse it with the first Marmalade Squares Quilt.

My name is Katie Blakesley and I blog at Swim, Bike,Quilt, and I’m sharing my Marmalade Squares quilt with you today. Marmalade, by Bonnie & Camille, is a bit of a flashback, I know! I started this quilt last fall while I was co-writing a book (Vintage Quilt Revival) and I’m so happy to be sharing the tutorial today. I backed the quilt in one of the lovely soft flannels from the line, which adds to the calm, cozy nature of this quilt. 

Marmalade Squares is charm pack friendly and fun to sew—it would be a great baby gift or a charity quilt (just wrapped up 100 Quilts for Kids 2013 on my blog– maybe you will join us next year?)

And just a note–I have included very specific instructions here, but this would be a fun quilt to “wing it” a bit with, and do a bit of improv piecing, if you are so inclined.

2 Charm Packs
1 ½  yards neutral Moda Bella Sand or other neutral solid (9900 201)

2 ½ yards backing fabric
1 ¼ yards batting (or 44’’ x 50’’ piece of batting)
3/8 yard Stripe in Raspberry for binding (55054 12) 

Note: You may be able to use 1 charm pack + a little bit of coordinating fabric from the backing or your stash if you would like–the extra charms also work great as a stripe on the quilt back. For more ideas on quilt backs, see “The Other Side of the Quilt,” a linky party. 


1. Cut solid fabric according to the chart below. I suggest cutting the longest pieces first.

2. Choose 25 five inch charm squares to make the central patchwork square, which measures 23’’ x 23’’ (unfinished). Arrange them in a grid of 5 squares by 5 squares. Sew the top row of squares together, and press seams to the right. 

3. Sew the second row of squares together and press to the left. Repeat with the third row (press to the right), fourth row (press to the left) and fifth row (press to the right).

4. Place the top and second rows right sides together, and pin at each seam intersection. Sew the two rows together, and press well. 

5. Continue pinning, sewing, and pressing the rows until you have a 5 x 5 grid. 

6. Cut 15 + charm squares in half. (You may need more or less charms, depending on how scrappy you want the quilt to look).

7. Cut the 30 (+) charm halves as follows:
    Cut some charm halves into 2.5’’ x 4.5’’ rectangles, and discard the remaining .5’’ x 2.5’’ rectangle.
    Cut some charm halves into 2.5’’ x 3.5’’ rectangles and 1.5’’ x 2.5’’ rectangles.
    Cut at least 10 charm halves in half again, leaving you with (20) 2.5’’ x 2.5’’ squares.
    Cut some charm halves into 2.5’’ x 3’’ rectangles and 2’’ x 2.5’’ rectangles.

8.  Set aside six 2.5’’ x 4.5’’ strips and eight 2.5’’ x 2.5’’ squares for the top left part of the quilt.

9. Piece the remaining charm square pieces into strips.  You will need 2 strips that are 2.5’’ x 37.5’’ and 2 strips that are 2.5’’ x 30’’.

Note: You can piece the strips together and trim them to the desired length.

Putting Together the Quilt Top

Piece the Center Portion

1. Arrange the pieced “center” square (A) and strip B and C as shown below.  

2. Place B (7.5’’ x 23’’) and A right sides together, pin if necessary, sew, and press.

3. Place C right sides together with AB, pin if necessary (I suggest in the center, at the two ends, and intermittently throughout), sew, and press.

4. Place D right sides together with ABC, pin, sew, and press.
Piece the Left Side of the Quilt
Note: This is not how I pieced it, but it will result in a cleaner look, and if I was remaking this quilt, I would piece it this way.

1. Choose eight 2.5’’ x 2.5’’ charm squares and one solid center square the same size to make the nine patch at the top left corner of the quilt. Sew the nine patch together, the top row, then the center row, then the bottom row. Press well. Pin the top and center row together, sew, and press. Pin the bottom row to the rectangle, sew and press well. The 9 patch square will measure 6.5” x 6.5”.

2. Continue to build the upper left corner of the quilt—see diagram below for layout.  Sew “Row 1” together as shown and press.  

3. Sew together two 2.5’’ x 4.5’’ charm rectangles with one solid 2.5’’ x 4.5’’ rectangle in the center as shown below, and sew it to the left side of the 9 patch square. 

4. Repeat step 3, and sew it to the right side of the charm square. Note: You can also piece charm strips together to make a 2.5’’ x 4.5’’ strip as shown on the right side of the diagram, if you prefer a very scrappy look. 

5. Pin Row 1 and the extended 9 patch rectangle right sides together, making sure to match intersecting seams, pin, sew, and press. 
6. Place strip E (4.5’’ x 37.5’’) and F (pieced strip 2.5’’ x 37.5’’) right sides together, pin, sew, and press. Sew strip G (2.5’’ x 37.5’’) and strip H (pieced strip 2.5’’ x 37.5’’) right sides together, pin, sew, and press. Sew EF to GH. Press well. Sew EFGH to I. Press well.


7. Pin the top half of the left side (includes the 9 patch square) to the bottom half of the left side (just sewn above). Be sure to match intersecting seams, pin, sew, and press. Set aside. 

Piece the Top Right Half of the Quilt

1.  Place strip J (solid 4.5’’ x 30’’ strip) right sides together with strip K (pieced strip 2.5’’ x 30’’), pin, sew, and press.

2. Repeat with strip L (solid 2.5’’ x 30’’ strip) and M (pieced strip 2.5’’ x 30.5’’), pin, sew, and press.

3. Pin and sew JK and LM together, press well. 

Piece the Quilt Top
1. Pin the piece just sewn (JKLM) to the center square (ABCD), and sew. Press well. 

2. Piece the left side of the quilt top (EFGHI) to the right side of the quilt top. Take care to pin the intersecting seams at the top and match points. Sew together. Press. Voila! Quilt top is finished!


Finishing the Quilt

1. Cut six 2.5’’ x width of fabric strips. Join them together, and bind according to your favorite method. [I have a machine binding tutorial on my blog that I used].

2. Baste your quilt top, batting, and quilt back and quilt using your favorite method. I used a serpentine stitch on my Bernina; you could also do something similar with a free hand free motion quilting stitch. Bind the quilt, and do a happy dance! You made it.

The finished quilt top measures 44.5” x 47.5” — it has been rounded up for convenience.

Note on quilting this quilt—as you can see, it is easy to “pull” the charm pack chains as you quilt the quilt. If you are doing horizontal or vertical quilting (in contrast to an all over free motion design), make sure to quilt a few lines from top to bottom, then a few lines starting at the bottom and going to the top, alternating often so you don’t “pull” the quilt. 


Thanks, and I would love to have you visit me at Swim, Bike, Quilt!

Quilt measures 45’’ x 48’’

Katie Blakesley
{Swim, Bike,Quilt

Little Boy Blue {Toddler Bean Bag}

Toddler Bean Bag Pattern by Vanessa Goertzen 

Summer is finally here! I whipped up this cute little bean bag for my son  to complement the girly tuffets I made for my daughter {Tea Party Tuffets}.  I used the boy-ish colors in flannel from Bonnie and Camille’s Marmalade line. Since I was working with leftovers, mine are just basic panels in two different prints, but ideally you would piece charm packs together and use my templates (at the end of the Printer Friendly version) to create a patchwork version.

*If using two prints, you will need 1-1/4 yard of each bean bag material.


Toddler Bean Bag Pattern by Vanessa Goertzen1. Open and print all pages of the “Little Boy Blue” Bean Bag Pattern on 8.5 x 11″ paper. Make sure that the printer settings are not set to “fit to scale.” The first page includes a 1″ tester square–measure to make sure everything has printed correctly.

2. Carefully cut out the pattern pieces labeled “Piece A,” Piece B,” and “Piece C.” Tape together as indicated in the adjacent diagram and set aside.

 3.  Carefully cut out the pattern pieces labeled “Piece D” and “Piece E.” Tape together as indicated.

Toddler Bean Bag Pattern by Vanessa Goertzen

NOTE: If you’d like to make a larger version of this bean bag (suitable for older kids), take these printed template pages to your local copy center and enlarge all pieces 150%.


You will need to cut a total of six bean bag panels from the bean bag material. (Since I am using two bean bag materials, I will be cutting three panels from each.) There are multiple ways to cut the panels from your fabric–here is my preferred method to get the most out of the yardage:

When you purchase fabric off the bolt, the manufacturer has already folded it in half widthwise, wrong sides together. Keeping it folded this way, make another fold by bringing the top of the fabric down about 9-10″ (or until the pattern fits along this new fold). Note: this new fold will run perpendicular to the manufacturer’s original fold.
Pin the pattern in place along the fold where indicated. Carefully cut around the pattern shape, remove the pins, and unfold the two resulting bean bag panels. Repeat the 9-10″ fold, realign the pattern, pin in place, and cut again. Repeat until you have six bean bag panels total.
Toddler Bean Bag Pattern by Vanessa Goertzen
Toddler Bean Bag Pattern by Vanessa Goertzen

*TIP: If using two different prints, this cutting method will yield 4 bean bag panels from each. You can refold the two extra panels (one from each print) and cut a top & bottom piece from each.

Speaking of the top & bottom pieces, go ahead and place that pattern on the fold of your leftover bean bag material and cut two. Designate one for the bean bag top and the other for the bean bag bottom.

Toddler Bean Bag Pattern by Vanessa Goertzen

LINING: Repeat the whole process to get six panels and a top and bottom from the lining material. 


You will begin with two bean bag panels and the 22″ zipper. (If using two prints, retrieve one of each so we can alternate them).

Toddler Bean Bag Pattern by Vanessa Goertzen

Turn the zipper over so it is right sides together with one of the bean bag panels. Align the raw edges and pin in place down the entire zipper, moving the zipper head down as you go.

Toddler Bean Bag Pattern by Vanessa GoertzenToddler Bean Bag Pattern by Vanessa Goertzen

Once the zipper head reaches the bottom (or before then), move it back up a bit so you can pin the zipper tape beyond it. This may require removing some pins momentarily.

Toddler Bean Bag Pattern by Vanessa GoertzenToddler Bean Bag Pattern by Vanessa Goertzen

Install the zipper foot on the sewing machine (make sure you move the needle over to the left) and stitch the zipper in place, stitching as close to the teeth as possible.

Toddler Bean Bag Pattern by Vanessa Goertzen

Once you reach the zipper head, don’t be tempted to just stitch around it. Take a second to pause and pull the project out from the machine. Zip it up so the zipper head into the area where the zipper is already sewn down. Resume stitching all the way to the bottom.

Toddler Bean Bag Pattern by Vanessa GoertzenToddler Bean Bag Pattern by Vanessa GoertzenToddler Bean Bag Pattern by Vanessa Goertzen

Bring this “zippered” panel right sides together with the next panel. Referring to the picture below, fold the zippered-edge back slightly so the zipper is now right sides together with the other panel.

Toddler Bean Bag Pattern by Vanessa Goertzen

Line up the edge of the zipper tape with the edge of the panel. Begin pinning the zipper tape in place just as you did with the other panel, moving the zipper head down, and so on.

Toddler Bean Bag Pattern by Vanessa GoertzenToddler Bean Bag Pattern by Vanessa Goertzen

Move needle to right of the zipper foot and sew the zipper tape in place from the top.

Toddler Bean Bag Pattern by Vanessa Goertzen

When you’re done, you can take a little sneak peek of what the zipper will look like! Looks good, but we need to do one more thing.

Toddler Bean Bag Pattern by Vanessa Goertzen

Top-stitch the zipper in place on both sides. Keep using the zipper foot and make sure the needle is set on the side away from the zipper teeth to give a nice (approx. 3/8″) seam allowance.

Toddler Bean Bag Pattern by Vanessa Goertzen

Now that the zipper is in place, we can sew the rest of the panels together.

Toddler Bean Bag Pattern by Vanessa Goertzen

Add the next panel (right sides together), aligning the raw edges, and pinning in place like so.

Toddler Bean Bag Pattern by Vanessa Goertzen

Sew along the pinned side using 3/8″ seam allowance.

Toddler Bean Bag Pattern by Vanessa Goertzen

Repeat and add another panel until all six are all attached in a row. If using two prints, alternate them. Bring the first and last panel right sides together, pin in place, and sew together.

Toddler Bean Bag Pattern by Vanessa Goertzen

Keep the bean bag inside out and unzip the zipper before proceeding.

Pin the top right sides together with the bean bag, aligning the raw edges. Sew the top in place using 1/2″ seam allowance.

Toddler Bean Bag Pattern by Vanessa Goertzen

Repeat to add the bottom, but double check that the zipper is open before you do. 

Finally, turn the bean bag right-side out through the zipper opening.

Toddler Bean Bag Pattern by Vanessa Goertzen

Repeat this whole sewing process (minus the zipper) with the lining pieces. When adding the final bottom round piece, only stitch it 2/3 of the way. Turn the lining right-side out through that hole and fill it with the polystyrene beads before stitching it closed.

A word about the polystyrene beads: Be sure to read and follow all instructions. They will cause a big mess if you’re not careful.

Toddler Bean Bag Pattern by Vanessa Goertzen

Once the bean bag is filled about 2/3 full, pin it shut and hand-stitch it closed.

Toddler Bean Bag Pattern by Vanessa Goertzen

Now you are ready to slip it into your beautiful bean bag cover. Zip up and enjoy! When it gets dirty, just unzip, remove the bean bag, and wash the bean bag cover.

 Toddler Bean Bag Pattern by Vanessa Goertzen

A fun and happy pint-sized bean bag perfect for any toddler!

Toddler Bean Bag Pattern by Vanessa Goertzen

Toddler Bean Bag Pattern by Vanessa Goertzen

Vanessa Goertzen

L.O.V.E. Mini Quilt Sampler

You gotta love leftovers in a bake shop, especially the kind that have no calories! 

When I was testing out different types of reverse applique for a recent project I trotted out some slices of my Marmalade layer cake that hadn’t been used in Marmalade Circles.  They were perfect for this sweet Valentine sampler.

The sampler measures 9 1/2″ x 9 1/2″  – a perfect Valentine for yourself or a quilty friend.

4, 10″ x 10″ squares of coordinating fabric
Pearl cotton
Fray Check
Sharpie Marker (for paper)
Fabric Marker
Short Pointy Sharp scissors
Applique pins

Cutting Instructions:

  • Choose fabrics for letters and backgrounds.  Cut 4, 5″x5″ squares of each
  • Choose fabric for binding.  Cut 5, 2″ x 10″ strips
  • Use remaining 10″ x 10″ square for backing.

Lettering Instructions:   The point of this project, at least for me, was to try out different types of applique, specifically reverse applique.  Reverse applique is a method by which layers of fabric are used to create designs as bits are secured and cut away.  Kind of like the ancient sculptors who “found” their masterpieces hidden in the stones that they chiseled…only this is fabric…and I’ve never found a handsome hunk hidden in the layers of fiber.  

You  are more than welcome to use a different method of applique.  My templates would work for either fusible or traditional techniques.  Go for it.

The following instructions tell you how I did what I did.   I tried two methods, one done by hand, and one by machine.  There are two samples of each method in this tiny quilt.

Made using 4, slices of layer cake from Marmalade by Bonnie & Camille
By hand…
The letters O and V were drawn on to the striped fabric. I then layered that patch a top the floral. I snipped the top fabric about 1/4″ from the drawn line (starting with the center, else it would fall away.) flipped the edge under and hand sewed along the tracing line (now at the edge of the patch.) I continued that process until the whole letter had been revealed.
By machine….
The letters L and E  were drawn onto the floral fabric. I then layered the patch atop a striped charm and machine sewed a scant 1/4″ to the outside of my traced line. Once the L was completely traced with stitches I carefully trimmed away the top layer (leaving about 1/8″ raw edge) and applied Fray Check to the loose edges.

As a long arm quilter, I have found that loose edges can cause problems. To minimize the floppiness I went back and hand embellished the edges with pearl cotton.  (Another option would be to use your machine and do some decorative stitching to hold the edges down.)

As I mentioned earlier, it is perfectly acceptable, and probably a lot easier to fuse the letters. If you choose to do it this way, the templates can do double duty. Use the box around each letter to help center the letters on each charm.
Getting down to business

  • Print letter templates.
    • At the bottom of this post is a “Printer Friendly Version” button that looks like the picture above….only it will actually take you somewhere.
    • Clicking on it will take you to a place where you can print it all out.
    • There are 4 different letters.
    • You will need to make one of each.
    Reverse Applique
    • Each template is drawn in 5″ square. When you print them, make sure that the square measures 5″.
    • You need to be able to see the outlines of the letters/shape through the fabric. I found the lines printer by my printer to be insufficient to this task.
    • To fix the problem I drew on them with a sharpie marker.
    • WARNING – be careful of your writing surface, you don’t want to ruin your cutting mat with Sharpie bleed through.
  • Using light box, or masking tape and a window, trace letters onto the right side of each 5″ x 5″ square that you intend to use as the background fabric. 
  • Reverse Applique
  • Layer each charm square atop one letter fabric square.
Reverse Applique
    • Layer them so that both right sides are up….like pages in a note pad.
    Reverse Applique
    • Using large basting stitches, sew 1/8″ from each edge.
      • This will hold your pieces together while you are working with the fabric in the middle to reveal the letters.
      • The smaller than normal “seam allowance” will ensure that the stitching doesn’t show when you put all of the blocks together.
  • Applique letters onto blocks.
    • For L and O
    • Reverse Applique
      • Snip the top fabric about 1/4″ from the drawn line (starting with the center if you are working on something with a floating piece like center of  O)   Make your cut only about an inch or two long so that you are only cutting what you are working on at the moment. Clip curves, and corners to make flipping under the edge easier.
      • Flip the edge under
      • Pin in place as needed.
      • Sew along the tracing line (now at the edge of the patch.) with a hidden stitch like you would use if you were binding your quilt or hemming something. Continued that process until the whole letter is revealed.
    • For V and E
      • Sew a scant 1/4″ to the outside of the tracing lines.
      • Trim the fabric on the tracing lines
      • Apply a thin coating of Fray Check to the exposed raw edges
      • Secure edges as desired.
  • Assemble the top.
    •  NOTE your blocks will be thicker than normal.  That is to be expected.  It is a result of the double layers used in reverse applique.  As you sew your top together iron the seam allowances OPEN.  This will spread out the bulk.  I know it makes aligning the corners more difficult, but you will thank me when you go to quilt it. 
    • Sew the L block to the O block
    • Sew the V block to the E block
    • Sew two rows together to make top
  • Layer, quilt, and bind as desired.

It was once common practice for children to make samplers of their needle work.  It provided a record of stitches, helped them with their tecnique, and taught them various important lessons as they stitched out the words.  (Imagine stitching out “I will not talk in class!”  he, he, he.  That sampler didn’t make it down to us.  I wonder why.)  This recipe yields one sweet lesson in LOVE, and two in reverse applique.  It would be perfect to hang on a wall, in a quiet corner or your home or office.  If you have a little girl in your life it might also be used to cover Barbie’s bed.

I’d love to see your finished project.  Please add it to the Flickr group Tops to Treasures.

Cindy Sharp

Marmalade Squares Quilt

Happy January! It is LeAnne Ballard from Everyday Celebrations and I am excited to be here today sharing a bright and cheery quilt. I’ve been wanting to make a postage stamp quilt for awhile and decided put a little twist on this classic to make one darling little quilt.

This quilt features four different postage stamp‘esque’ blocks. Also, this quilt uses strip piecing so don’t fret over all those little squares. (The squares are 1.5″ finished.) If you like, you may add an initial for personalization. This quilt was made for my daughter’s 1st birthday so personalization was a must. I also will share this cute little coordinating dolly quilt.

1 Layer Cake, Marmalade by Bonnie and Camille
1 1/8 yard neutral, Bella Solid in Bleached White 97
1 3/4 yard backing, Dot in Strawberry
1/2 yard binding, Sugar in Raspberry
1 fat quarter – for appliqued initial, Bella Solid in Tea Rose 9900 89
60″ x 50″ piece of batting
6″ square of iron on adhesive, such as Heat n’ Bond Lite

2 fat quarters, for dolly quilt
crochet lace, for dolly quilt

  • Seam allowances are 1/4″.
  • RST = right sides together
  • WOF = width of fabric
  • blocks will measure 9.5″ square unfinished
  • If you wish to personalize your quilt, you will need to print off an initial. To do this, just type your desired letter in a blank document in Microsoft Word or other program. You want your letter to measure no more than 5″ tall. (There are rulers on the side of the document in Microsoft Word.) When you print, make sure you select the ‘mirror’ or ‘flipped’ option so the letter is BACKWARDS. If you don’t know how to do this, print normally and tape to a sunny window, with the back of the paper facing you. Then trace the letter onto iron-on adhesive.

This quilt is made up of four different blocks.

#1 – you will make {6}

#2 – you will make {3}

#3 – you will make {2}

#4 – you will make {1}


1. From the Layer Cake, reserve {4} squares. These will be used in blocks #2,  #3, and #4.

2. From remaining Layer Cake squares cut {80} 2″ x 10″ strips. Reserve two strips for block #3.

3. Sashing from neutral cut:
{2} 3″ x WOF strips then subcut into {8} 9.5″ strips.
{3} 3″ x WOF strips

4. Borders from neutral cut:
{4} 5.5″ x WOF strips

Making Patchwork Strips

5. Sew {6} 2″ x 10″ strips together to make {1} 9.5″ x 10″ block. Make {13}  total blocks. Press seams as desired.

6. Cut {5} 2″ x 9.5″ strips from each block for a total of {65} strips.  These will be called “patchwork strips”.


7. Sew {6} patchwork strips together to make {1} 9.5″ square block.  Repeat for {6} blocks total.

Block #2

8. Cut one reserved Layer Cake square to 9.5″ x 10″.  Then cut {1} 2.5″ x 9.5″ strip and {1} 6″ x 9.5″ strip.

9. Sew {1} patchwork strip to the 2.5″ x 9.5″ strip. Press as desired. Then sew the 6″x 9.5″ strip to the other side of the patchwork strip. Press as desired. Repeat for {3} blocks total. (Sorry for the change in fabrics in the photos.)

Block #3

10. Sew {1}  patchwork strip to one of the reserved 2″ x 10″ strips. Press as desired. Then sew {4} patchwork strips together and sew to the other side of the 2″ x 10″ strip. Press as desired. Repeat for {2} blocks total. 

Block #4

11. From the remaining reserved Layer Cake square cut {1} 6.5″ square.

12. From {2} patchwork strips and remove {2} squares using a seam ripper. (These strips will now have 4 squares.) Press shortened strips. Sew to the top and bottom of the 6.5″ square. Press as desired.

13. Sew {2} patchwork strips to the sides of the block to complete. Press as desired.

14. To make the initial, trace the letter on to the iron on adhesive following the package directions. Adhere to center of the block. Applique as desired, I used a machine blanket stitch.

Quilt Assembly:

15. Layout the blocks in desired fashion or use quilt diagram. Sew blocks together in 4 rows of 3, with one 3″ x 9.5″ neutral strip between each block.

16. Measure the length of one row and cut {1} 3″ x WOF strip the same length. Sew rows together with one 3″ strip between the rows. Repeat for remaining rows. Press.

 17. Measure top and bottom of quilt and cut {2} 5.5″ strips the same length. (Save leftover for the sides.) Sew leftover 5.5″ strips to the two remaining 5.5″ x WOF strips. Measure sides and cut strips to same length. Pin and sew. Press quilt top.

 18. Baste, quilt and bind. Cut {4} 2.5″ x WOF strips for binding.

Dolly Quilt:
I’ve learned that whenever I make a quilt I had better just make a little dolly quilt. Otherwise, my quilts end up as dolly quilts by my sweet girls. Which is fine, but just a little challenging for little hands. 🙂  So using the remaining patchwork strips we will make one cute dolly quilt.

1. Sew {11} patchwork strips together.

2. Measure the length of the patchwork unit and cut {2} 4.5″ x (that length)” strips from one fat quarter.

3. If you desire, sew crochet lace to the sides of the patchwork unit. Cut two lengths of lace just a touch longer than the length of the patchwork unit. Pin lace about 1/8″ in from the edge of the unit. (My lace was narrower so I did this so the lace didn’t disappear in the seam allowance, if your lace is wider you could just line it up with the edge.) Baste lace in place close to the edge of the lace.

4. Sew 4.5″ strip to the side of the patch work unit using a scant 1/4″ seam allowance. (Again so I didn’t loose the lace in the seam allowance.) Press. Repeat for the other side.

5. Baste, quilt, and bind if desired. (Use the remaining fat quarter for backing.)

6. However, I was on a time crunch for this project so I decided to forgo the binding. Instead I just sewed white ric rac all along the edge of the dolly quilt. To do this baste the ric rac along the edge of the quilt top. I didn’t bother pinning, just line it up as you sew.

7. Then I cut my backing (from the remaining fat quarter) to the exact size as my dolly quilt top. I placed RST and pinned in place. Then sew together, leaving an opening along one of the fat quarter sides.  (It is tricky when you leave the opening along the patchwork edge.) Turn and press. Top stitch close to the edge sewing the opening close as you topstitch. I also topstiched about 1/8″ in from the lace.

{1} 53″ x 42″ snugly quilt + {1} 15.5″ x 16.5″ dolly quilt

LeAnne Ballard

120-Minute Gift: Drunkard’s Path Table Runner

Drunkard’s Table Runner: ‘marmalade’ with a festive spin:  A 12.5” x 54” table runner featuring “Marmalade” by Bonnie and Camille for Moda, >composed of (5) 9.5” square drunkard’s path blocks

Recipe Pattern by Erin Davis of Sew at Home Mummy

Hi all!

I wanted to do something festive for my dining room table, and I thought, hey! I love ‘marmalade’, why not pair it with a modern red & green to give the line a Christmas-y spin? I love the way it turned out – it looks good on my table for the upcoming holidays, yet I could most definitely pull it off year round! I had a lot of fun composing this runner and I have to say: don’t be scared of curved piecing! Look how gorgeous it looks when it’s done. This would make a fantastic holiday gift, too. 

Happy sewing, quilting and crafting everyone!

Cheers and enjoy the project,


– 1 Moda ‘marmalade’ by bonnie and camille Charm Pack
– 1 yard Bella Solids ‘Pistachio’
– 1/3 yards Bella Solids ‘Scarlet’
– 16”x60” piece of batting

From charm squares:
see attached templates (A) & (B) in the printable version of the post… I cut mine from the cardboard on the back of the charm square pack, like this:

***sort the charm squares as you like – have fun with it! I pre-sorted my squares into colorways (i.e. – all the ‘reds’ in one stack, all the yellows in another, etc. and then paired the patterns based on what I’d like to see as the center wedge piece, and what I’d like to see as the outer ‘L’ piece.***

·         Cut 20 pieces of template (A) (creating the ‘wedge’ shapes)

·         Cut 20 pieces of template (B) (creating the ‘L’ shapes)

Tip: when cutting curved pieces, try to use the smallest sized rotary cutter you have; you’ll find it much easier to navigate the curves.Your cut pieces will look like this, with the wedge-shaped piece appearing larger than the concave part of the ‘L’ shape – don’t worry:

This is what you want – it’s the seam allowances that make it appear too big to fit.

From yardage:

Cut (2) pieces of 16” x 30”
Cut (4) pieces 2”x9.5”
Cut (2) pieces 2”x12.5”
Cut (3) strips 2”x width of fabric

Piecing (Runner Top):
1. Sort your A’s and B’s in combinations of fours (there will be 4 each of A’s and B’s in one block) ; I sorted by colorway in a way that was aesthetically pleasing to me. Have fun with it!

Have fun arranging your pieces
2. Attach piece (A)s to piece (B)s, creating quarter block units. If you have never pieced Drunkard’s blocks before, here are some tips.

a. Fold your Piece (A) and (B) in half along the cut curve, and finger press like so:

b. Match your finger press marks, right sides together, and pin

Tip: When pinning for curved seams, try to have your pin enter where the sewing line will be – i.e. ¼” from the edge of the fabric, and only ‘grab’ a small amount of fabric with pin

c. Match the two outside edges together; pin in the same manner as described above. Place pins along the rest of the curve, easing the fabric to fit.

d.  Sew the two pieces together. I have sewn both with the wedge piece (piece (A)) on top, and the wedge piece on bottom. Personally, I find it easier with the ‘L’ shaped piece (or piece (B)) on top – but you’ll have to play with it to find what you’re most comfortable with. Here are some tips I have found helpful for sewing curved seams:

                             i. Slow and steady; don’t expect to zip around these curves like straight piecing (unless you’re pro! haha)

                             ii. Leave your pins in to the last minute, without sewing over them.

                             iii. every 3-5 stitches, lift your presser foot, pivot slightly, adjust your fabrics, etc.

                             iv. always be conscious of the fabric about to enter under your presser foot – make sure there are no lumps and bumps.

                             v. I have some more tips on my blog – I recently finished a 4” apple core quilt and posted ideas on curved piecing here: 
                             Sew at Home Mummy: Apple Core Quilt
e.  When you’re done sewing, you’ll have a block that looks like this:

f.   Press towards piece (A)s.
g.  Join two quarter blocks to create a half block; press. Repeat with other half of block.
                   Join two half block pieces, matching center seams. Press center seam open.
3.  Arrange completed blocks in an orientation you like. When you’re happy with your layout, attach 2”x9.5” sashing pieces (in ‘Scarlet’) between blocks to create table runner top, like so:
4.  Sew the (3) 2”x width of fabric (in ‘Scarlet’) together, creating one long strip. Use strip to border runner. ‘Cap’ ends with (2) 2” x 12.5” pieces:
Piecing (Backing & Binding):
1.  Sew short ends of the two 16”x30” pieces of ‘Pistachio’ together, creating a backing measuring 16”x60” with a ½” seam allowance. Press seam open.

2.  Use remaining ‘Pistachio’ for binding (as desired).
1.       Layer, baste and quilt as desired.
2. Bind as desired with remaining ‘Pistachio’. I used a decorative top-stitch on the binding seam to jazz it up a bit. 
One gorgeous ‘marmalade’ table runner with a festive spin.

If you have a minute, pop by my blog and see what shenanigans are brewing – there’s always something happening.

Erin Davis

{Sew at Home Mummy}

Big thanks to Moda for giving me the opportunity to work with their gorgeous fabrics again!

120-Minute GIft: Tea Party Tuffets

Brighten up your space with Vanessa’s happy little Tea Party Tuffets. Make them simple with just yardage or add a little patchwork fun with charm packs. There are so many lovely possibilities!

*Fabric is “Marmalade” by Bonnie & Camille

  • 1 charm pack or 3/4 yard fabric for Tuffet-Top
  • 3/4 yard fabric for Tuffet-Bottom
  • 3/4 yard fabric for Tuffet-Side
  • 1 Tea Party Tuffet PDF pattern {see Printer Friendly file at bottom of post}
  • 6 lbs polyester fiberfill

  • 4-1/2 yards decorative trim or piping

*Print out all pages of the Tea Party Tuffet PDF pattern. Be sure to print at 100% scale on regular 8.5 x 11″ paper and assemble according to pattern instructions.  

PLEASE NOTE: There will be small gaps in the pattern circle shape where the pages are taped together–this is okay! Do not trim or overlap the pages in an attempt to connect the lines.
Once all pages are taped together, cut out the pattern.

Tuffet-Top: Use the pattern to cut one circle from the tuffet-top fabric. If using a charm pack instead of yardage, refer to the Patchwork Tuffet-Top instructions.
Tuffet-Bottom: Use the pattern to cut one circle from the tuffet-bottom fabric.

Patchwork Tuffet-Top: You will need 36 of the 42 charm squares; organize them into six rows with six charm squares per row.

Assuming 1/4″ seam allowance, sew the charm squares into their rows, pressing open the seams afterwards. Sew the rows together, lining up the seams and pinning in place beforehand. Press those seams open as well.

Center the pattern and cut out one circle for your tuffet-top.

INTERFACING OPTION: At this point, I like to iron a feather weight fusible interfacing to the back of each tuffet-top and tuffet-bottom piece. It makes the fabric feel a bit stiffer and gives an overall stability to the shape of the finished product that I really love! Not a requirement though.

EMBELLISHMENT OPTION: Another option is to embellish your tuffet-top and tuffet-bottom pieces with some sort of trim. I’ll use pom-pom trim to demonstrate, but there are many trim options you could use!

In all likelihood, you will need to use a zipper foot to stitch your trim in place.  In general, you’ll want the seam allowance to be about 1/2″.  Because the pom-pom trim is so skinny, I’m going to lay it down 1/4″ in from the raw edge of the fabric, pom-poms on the inside.

Whatever trim you use, I sometimes find it helpful to remember that everything left of the needle/stitching is what is going to show.

Once you’ve sewn almost all the way around, cut the end of the trim to overlap with the beginning-piece and resume stitching it down.

TUFFET SIDE: From the tuffet-side fabric, cut two strips 12″ x WOF; subcut into two 12 x 37″ strips. (Iron fusible interfacing to the back of each if you’ve done it to the tuffet-top and tuffet-bottom pieces.)


To sew them into a tube: bring the 12 x 37″ strips right sides together, aligning the raw edges, and pin along the 12″ sides.

[Switch to a regular presser foot and] sew down the 12″ sides using 1/2″ seam allowance, leaving a 6-7″ gap unstitched in the center of one of those sides as indicated by the diagram below. (This is how we will turn our tuffet right-side out later).

Press open the seams. (Here is the side with the gap.)


Pin the edges of the tuffet-top to the top-side of the tube, right sides together. 

UNEMBELLISHED TUFFET: Sew the tuffet-top and tube together using 1/2″ seam allowance.
EMBELLISHED TUFFET: Re-install the zipper foot and sew the the tuffet-top and tube together using the same seam allowance used to sew the trim in place (approximately 1/2″). The easiest way to do this is just sew along the seam showing on the wrong side of the tuffet-top.  (I apologize I neglected to take a picture of this as it makes more sense than what I did–I lined the zipper foot up against the bulk of the pom-pom trim and [blindly] stitched with the tube-side fabric showing on top.)


Pin the tuffet-bottom to the other side of the tube, right sides together and repeat.

Turn the tuffet right-side out through the 6-7″ gap in the side.

Your tuffet will look quite sad and saggy without stuffing, so fill it! I stuffed mine pretty full so it would be nice and sturdy.

Once it’s full to your liking, fold the edges in at the hole and pin closed. (This is probably the toughest part of the whole project!) Stitch the hole closed by hand (I recommend a ladder stitch).

 An adorable tuffet!

Vanessa Goertzen

30-Minute Gift: Patchwork Wine Bag

Hey, gang! I can’t tell you how thrilled I am to bring you (TADA!) my first ever project for Moda Bake Shop. My name is Mary Miller and I have a little table in the blogateria that I call Spoolhardy Girl . I hope you’ll come by and visit when you are finished here. (Pssst! Can you smell the giveaway I’ve got cooking? MMMM Modalicious, if you get my drift.)

I don’t have to remind you that the holidays are quickly approaching. Parties, cookie exchanges and chaos will ensue.  I am horrible about planning ahead for hostess gifts. I usually grab a bottle of wine and call it a day.  I happen to think wine is a perfectly lovely gift. If you ever want to give me wine, I’ll be more than happy to accept. But let’s gussy that bottle up a little, shall we?

One Mini Charm Pack of a Moda fabric of your choice. I used Marmalade by Bonnie and Camille.

One 2 1/2″ x 12.5″ (or even a bit more) strip coordinating fabric. I used Bella Solid Sunshine.
One 5″x 5″ square coordinating solid (also Bella Solid Sunshine)
One sharp #2 pencil

One 5″ x 5″ Fusible Fleece
One 5″ x 5″ square of freezer paper
Dritz Elastic Threading Tool
1/4″ presser foot (Highly recommended)

All seams are 1/4″

Let’s begin! Choose 25 individual squares from your mini charm pack and line them up in a 5 x 5 square grid like so:

Sew your rows together this way:

This picture is probably unnecessary, but I just learned how to make
the little arrows and I wanted to show off.

Press your seam allowances open.

Next, sew your rows together, and press your seams open.

Take a minute to admire this pretty panel you’ve made, then set it aside for a bit.

Next we are going to work on your bag bottom. No, not your baggy bottom. I have my own baggy bottom I need to work on, I can’t help you there! Anyway, on to the bottom of your bag!
This is where your #2 pencil and your freezer paper comes into play.
Place your pencil so that it is flat up against your bottle of wine, and the point is headed directly downward.

Thank you to Mr. Wonderful for taking this picture!

Trace all the way around the bottle. Now, you could skip the freezer paper step and do this directly onto your fabric, but I have a heck of a time getting the pencil to write on the fabric, so I do it this way. I also don’t recommend using a washable fabric pen because they tend to be wider than a pencil and that puts the mark too far away from the bottle, making your bottom too big. We all know we don’t want bottoms that are too big!

Once you have your circle made, take a ruler and mark a dotted line 1/4″ away from your original line.

Bring your freezer paper template, your fusible fleece (if using) and your 5″ x 5″ piece of fabric to your ironing board. I really like the idea of using the fleece in this step because it will give your bag bottom added support and a little bit of cushioning (I’m not even going to go for the joke here. It’s just too easy).

Place the freezer paper template shiny side down onto your fabric. If you are using a printed fabric, you want the right side facing up. Press with a hot iron for about 10-15 seconds. turn this unit over so that the fabric is facing up and the paper is on the ironing board. Place your square of fusible fleece adhesive (bumpy) side down and press with a steamy iron for about 15-20 seconds.

You should now have a unit that looks like this:

Freezer paper fused to fabric which is fused to fleece.

Cut around your dotted line and remove the freezer paper. Set aside.

Next we are going to make a band for the top of your bag. Take your 2 1/2″ strip of fabric fold and press it in half lengthwise, WRONG sides together.

Bring your strip back to the panel that you made and lay it out open so that about an inch hangs off of each side.

Fold the short end of the fabric back on itself so that the fold is just barely over the edge of your panel.

Do the same for the other end of your strip. Press at the folds.

Bring your strip to the machine and top stitch both ends barely 1/8″ away from the fold.

Trim excess from the seam allowances.

Please forgive my nasty thread tangles. I was having an argument with my
machine this day!

Fold lengthwise again wrong sides together and press.  Place your folded strip piece right sides together on top of your panel piece with raw edges aligned making sure that you have a bit of the top stitched ends sticking off the ends of your panel. Sew together. Press seam toward the panel.

If you want to give your bag a nice finished look top stitch about 1/8″ away from the seam you just made. This is completely up to you, and will only add decorative appeal to your bag.

Fold your panel in half right sides together and pin raw edges.

Begin stitching down this long side just below the seam created when you sewed your band on. You don’t want to sew the band shut, you’re going to need it in a minute! Back stitch at the beginning and ending of your stitching.

How cute is this sleeve!? If I could sew a shirt I would totally make a patchwork shirt just like this. Only I can’t, sew a shirt. I just took this picture to demonstrate that you have now sewn a nice tube.

Remember that circle we made with the fusible fleece? It’s time to sew it onto your tube. Yes. You are going to sew a circle onto a tube. I’m here to tell you, this is NOT hard. You can do this. Trust me. Take a deep breath and relax your shoulders. You are going to feel like a sewing goddess when I’m finished with you!

You want to pin your circle to the bottom (not the band end) of your bag. Pin it right sides together so that the white fusible fleece is facing out. Make sure that the edges of your circle are lined up neatly with the edges of the bag. I find that 8 pins placed at equal intervals around the circle are about right.

The key to getting this right is to go slowly. Place the bag under the presser foot. This is where a 1/4″foot comes in really handy. Make sure the edge of your fabric is nestled right up against the guide of your foot and slooowwwly begin to stitch. After 4 or 5 stitches lift your foot keeping the needle down, and realign the fabric so that it stays right up against your guide. As you remove your pins, make sure that your fabric edge is still lined up with your fleece edge. Also make sure that the fabric under the foot is laying flat. That’s it. Just work your way around and you’ll be fine, promise!
Cut the excess seam allowance to about 1/8″.

There. You did it! Give yourself a little pat on the back.

We’re in the home stretch now! We just need a pretty tie.

Take the remaining mini squares from your charm pack and sew them together in one long strip.
Press seams open.

Fold your strip in half lengthwise with right sides together.

Sew down the long side and across ONE of the short sides of this strip.

Now we need to turn this tube inside out. There are tools that you can buy to help do this, but I find that a wooden skewer or dowel works just fine. Place one end of the skewer against the sewn end of your tube. I like to place the other end of the skewer on my tummy, or on my work table. Then just begin to slip the fabric down over the skewer.

Continue easing the fabric down the skewer until it is completely right side out. Then press out the wrinkles.

Remember that Dritz Elastic Threader? I have to tell you, I have never once put elastic in one of my projects, but I use this little gizmo all the time. It was a total impulse purchase at Joann’s one day, and it has become one of my go to notions. We are going to use it to get the tie through the band at the top of the bag. If you don’t have an elastic threader, don’t sweat. Just use a large safety pin.

Thread the UNSEWN end of your tie through the top notch on the threader. OR pin your safety pin to the end. Put the threader into the hole on your band and work the fabric through until it comes out the other end. Tug on the tie so that it hangs out of the band equally on both sides.

Let’s tidy up the un-sewn end of the tie. Tuck the end in approximately 1/4″ and topstitch at 1/8″.

Done! Sit back and enjoy your handy work. Maybe pour yourself a glass of wine. Just not from the bottle you’re giving away!

One pretty darn cute wine bag that fits a standard wine bottle.  If you like to give your wine away by the jug or the box, hey, go for it! I don’t judge but, sadly, this project won’t work for you. May I suggest yarn bombing?

 Mary Miller