Marmalade Squares (Two!) Quilt

Author’s Note: Thanks to readers who found errors in the tutorial. They have been fixed on the website but not pdf download.  I will post here when the download has been fixed. Apologies and thanks. 

A note from Oda May: Marmalade Squares is a popular name! I’ve called this version Marmalade Squares (Two!) so we won’t be confuse it with the first Marmalade Squares Quilt.

My name is Katie Blakesley and I blog at Swim, Bike,Quilt, and I’m sharing my Marmalade Squares quilt with you today. Marmalade, by Bonnie & Camille, is a bit of a flashback, I know! I started this quilt last fall while I was co-writing a book (Vintage Quilt Revival) and I’m so happy to be sharing the tutorial today. I backed the quilt in one of the lovely soft flannels from the line, which adds to the calm, cozy nature of this quilt. 

Marmalade Squares is charm pack friendly and fun to sew—it would be a great baby gift or a charity quilt (just wrapped up 100 Quilts for Kids 2013 on my blog– maybe you will join us next year?)

And just a note–I have included very specific instructions here, but this would be a fun quilt to “wing it” a bit with, and do a bit of improv piecing, if you are so inclined.

2 Charm Packs
1 ½  yards neutral Moda Bella Sand or other neutral solid (9900 201)

2 ½ yards backing fabric
1 ¼ yards batting (or 44’’ x 50’’ piece of batting)
3/8 yard Stripe in Raspberry for binding (55054 12) 

Note: You may be able to use 1 charm pack + a little bit of coordinating fabric from the backing or your stash if you would like–the extra charms also work great as a stripe on the quilt back. For more ideas on quilt backs, see “The Other Side of the Quilt,” a linky party. 


1. Cut solid fabric according to the chart below. I suggest cutting the longest pieces first.

2. Choose 25 five inch charm squares to make the central patchwork square, which measures 23’’ x 23’’ (unfinished). Arrange them in a grid of 5 squares by 5 squares. Sew the top row of squares together, and press seams to the right. 

3. Sew the second row of squares together and press to the left. Repeat with the third row (press to the right), fourth row (press to the left) and fifth row (press to the right).

4. Place the top and second rows right sides together, and pin at each seam intersection. Sew the two rows together, and press well. 

5. Continue pinning, sewing, and pressing the rows until you have a 5 x 5 grid. 

6. Cut 15 + charm squares in half. (You may need more or less charms, depending on how scrappy you want the quilt to look).

7. Cut the 30 (+) charm halves as follows:
    Cut some charm halves into 2.5’’ x 4.5’’ rectangles, and discard the remaining .5’’ x 2.5’’ rectangle.
    Cut some charm halves into 2.5’’ x 3.5’’ rectangles and 1.5’’ x 2.5’’ rectangles.
    Cut at least 10 charm halves in half again, leaving you with (20) 2.5’’ x 2.5’’ squares.
    Cut some charm halves into 2.5’’ x 3’’ rectangles and 2’’ x 2.5’’ rectangles.

8.  Set aside six 2.5’’ x 4.5’’ strips and eight 2.5’’ x 2.5’’ squares for the top left part of the quilt.

9. Piece the remaining charm square pieces into strips.  You will need 2 strips that are 2.5’’ x 37.5’’ and 2 strips that are 2.5’’ x 30’’.

Note: You can piece the strips together and trim them to the desired length.

Putting Together the Quilt Top

Piece the Center Portion

1. Arrange the pieced “center” square (A) and strip B and C as shown below.  

2. Place B (7.5’’ x 23’’) and A right sides together, pin if necessary, sew, and press.

3. Place C right sides together with AB, pin if necessary (I suggest in the center, at the two ends, and intermittently throughout), sew, and press.

4. Place D right sides together with ABC, pin, sew, and press.
Piece the Left Side of the Quilt
Note: This is not how I pieced it, but it will result in a cleaner look, and if I was remaking this quilt, I would piece it this way.

1. Choose eight 2.5’’ x 2.5’’ charm squares and one solid center square the same size to make the nine patch at the top left corner of the quilt. Sew the nine patch together, the top row, then the center row, then the bottom row. Press well. Pin the top and center row together, sew, and press. Pin the bottom row to the rectangle, sew and press well. The 9 patch square will measure 6.5” x 6.5”.

2. Continue to build the upper left corner of the quilt—see diagram below for layout.  Sew “Row 1” together as shown and press.  

3. Sew together two 2.5’’ x 4.5’’ charm rectangles with one solid 2.5’’ x 4.5’’ rectangle in the center as shown below, and sew it to the left side of the 9 patch square. 

4. Repeat step 3, and sew it to the right side of the charm square. Note: You can also piece charm strips together to make a 2.5’’ x 4.5’’ strip as shown on the right side of the diagram, if you prefer a very scrappy look. 

5. Pin Row 1 and the extended 9 patch rectangle right sides together, making sure to match intersecting seams, pin, sew, and press. 
6. Place strip E (4.5’’ x 37.5’’) and F (pieced strip 2.5’’ x 37.5’’) right sides together, pin, sew, and press. Sew strip G (2.5’’ x 37.5’’) and strip H (pieced strip 2.5’’ x 37.5’’) right sides together, pin, sew, and press. Sew EF to GH. Press well. Sew EFGH to I. Press well.


7. Pin the top half of the left side (includes the 9 patch square) to the bottom half of the left side (just sewn above). Be sure to match intersecting seams, pin, sew, and press. Set aside. 

Piece the Top Right Half of the Quilt

1.  Place strip J (solid 4.5’’ x 30’’ strip) right sides together with strip K (pieced strip 2.5’’ x 30’’), pin, sew, and press.

2. Repeat with strip L (solid 2.5’’ x 30’’ strip) and M (pieced strip 2.5’’ x 30.5’’), pin, sew, and press.

3. Pin and sew JK and LM together, press well. 

Piece the Quilt Top
1. Pin the piece just sewn (JKLM) to the center square (ABCD), and sew. Press well. 

2. Piece the left side of the quilt top (EFGHI) to the right side of the quilt top. Take care to pin the intersecting seams at the top and match points. Sew together. Press. Voila! Quilt top is finished!


Finishing the Quilt

1. Cut six 2.5’’ x width of fabric strips. Join them together, and bind according to your favorite method. [I have a machine binding tutorial on my blog that I used].

2. Baste your quilt top, batting, and quilt back and quilt using your favorite method. I used a serpentine stitch on my Bernina; you could also do something similar with a free hand free motion quilting stitch. Bind the quilt, and do a happy dance! You made it.

The finished quilt top measures 44.5” x 47.5” — it has been rounded up for convenience.

Note on quilting this quilt—as you can see, it is easy to “pull” the charm pack chains as you quilt the quilt. If you are doing horizontal or vertical quilting (in contrast to an all over free motion design), make sure to quilt a few lines from top to bottom, then a few lines starting at the bottom and going to the top, alternating often so you don’t “pull” the quilt. 


Thanks, and I would love to have you visit me at Swim, Bike, Quilt!

Quilt measures 45’’ x 48’’

Katie Blakesley
{Swim, Bike,Quilt

Little Boy Blue {Toddler Bean Bag}

Toddler Bean Bag Pattern by Vanessa Goertzen 

Summer is finally here! I whipped up this cute little bean bag for my son  to complement the girly tuffets I made for my daughter {Tea Party Tuffets}.  I used the boy-ish colors in flannel from Bonnie and Camille’s Marmalade line. Since I was working with leftovers, mine are just basic panels in two different prints, but ideally you would piece charm packs together and use my templates (at the end of the Printer Friendly version) to create a patchwork version.

*If using two prints, you will need 1-1/4 yard of each bean bag material.


Toddler Bean Bag Pattern by Vanessa Goertzen1. Open and print all pages of the “Little Boy Blue” Bean Bag Pattern on 8.5 x 11″ paper. Make sure that the printer settings are not set to “fit to scale.” The first page includes a 1″ tester square–measure to make sure everything has printed correctly.

2. Carefully cut out the pattern pieces labeled “Piece A,” Piece B,” and “Piece C.” Tape together as indicated in the adjacent diagram and set aside.

 3.  Carefully cut out the pattern pieces labeled “Piece D” and “Piece E.” Tape together as indicated.

Toddler Bean Bag Pattern by Vanessa Goertzen

NOTE: If you’d like to make a larger version of this bean bag (suitable for older kids), take these printed template pages to your local copy center and enlarge all pieces 150%.


You will need to cut a total of six bean bag panels from the bean bag material. (Since I am using two bean bag materials, I will be cutting three panels from each.) There are multiple ways to cut the panels from your fabric–here is my preferred method to get the most out of the yardage:

When you purchase fabric off the bolt, the manufacturer has already folded it in half widthwise, wrong sides together. Keeping it folded this way, make another fold by bringing the top of the fabric down about 9-10″ (or until the pattern fits along this new fold). Note: this new fold will run perpendicular to the manufacturer’s original fold.
Pin the pattern in place along the fold where indicated. Carefully cut around the pattern shape, remove the pins, and unfold the two resulting bean bag panels. Repeat the 9-10″ fold, realign the pattern, pin in place, and cut again. Repeat until you have six bean bag panels total.
Toddler Bean Bag Pattern by Vanessa Goertzen
Toddler Bean Bag Pattern by Vanessa Goertzen

*TIP: If using two different prints, this cutting method will yield 4 bean bag panels from each. You can refold the two extra panels (one from each print) and cut a top & bottom piece from each.

Speaking of the top & bottom pieces, go ahead and place that pattern on the fold of your leftover bean bag material and cut two. Designate one for the bean bag top and the other for the bean bag bottom.

Toddler Bean Bag Pattern by Vanessa Goertzen

LINING: Repeat the whole process to get six panels and a top and bottom from the lining material. 


You will begin with two bean bag panels and the 22″ zipper. (If using two prints, retrieve one of each so we can alternate them).

Toddler Bean Bag Pattern by Vanessa Goertzen

Turn the zipper over so it is right sides together with one of the bean bag panels. Align the raw edges and pin in place down the entire zipper, moving the zipper head down as you go.

Toddler Bean Bag Pattern by Vanessa GoertzenToddler Bean Bag Pattern by Vanessa Goertzen

Once the zipper head reaches the bottom (or before then), move it back up a bit so you can pin the zipper tape beyond it. This may require removing some pins momentarily.

Toddler Bean Bag Pattern by Vanessa GoertzenToddler Bean Bag Pattern by Vanessa Goertzen

Install the zipper foot on the sewing machine (make sure you move the needle over to the left) and stitch the zipper in place, stitching as close to the teeth as possible.

Toddler Bean Bag Pattern by Vanessa Goertzen

Once you reach the zipper head, don’t be tempted to just stitch around it. Take a second to pause and pull the project out from the machine. Zip it up so the zipper head into the area where the zipper is already sewn down. Resume stitching all the way to the bottom.

Toddler Bean Bag Pattern by Vanessa GoertzenToddler Bean Bag Pattern by Vanessa GoertzenToddler Bean Bag Pattern by Vanessa Goertzen

Bring this “zippered” panel right sides together with the next panel. Referring to the picture below, fold the zippered-edge back slightly so the zipper is now right sides together with the other panel.

Toddler Bean Bag Pattern by Vanessa Goertzen

Line up the edge of the zipper tape with the edge of the panel. Begin pinning the zipper tape in place just as you did with the other panel, moving the zipper head down, and so on.

Toddler Bean Bag Pattern by Vanessa GoertzenToddler Bean Bag Pattern by Vanessa Goertzen

Move needle to right of the zipper foot and sew the zipper tape in place from the top.

Toddler Bean Bag Pattern by Vanessa Goertzen

When you’re done, you can take a little sneak peek of what the zipper will look like! Looks good, but we need to do one more thing.

Toddler Bean Bag Pattern by Vanessa Goertzen

Top-stitch the zipper in place on both sides. Keep using the zipper foot and make sure the needle is set on the side away from the zipper teeth to give a nice (approx. 3/8″) seam allowance.

Toddler Bean Bag Pattern by Vanessa Goertzen

Now that the zipper is in place, we can sew the rest of the panels together.

Toddler Bean Bag Pattern by Vanessa Goertzen

Add the next panel (right sides together), aligning the raw edges, and pinning in place like so.

Toddler Bean Bag Pattern by Vanessa Goertzen

Sew along the pinned side using 3/8″ seam allowance.

Toddler Bean Bag Pattern by Vanessa Goertzen

Repeat and add another panel until all six are all attached in a row. If using two prints, alternate them. Bring the first and last panel right sides together, pin in place, and sew together.

Toddler Bean Bag Pattern by Vanessa Goertzen

Keep the bean bag inside out and unzip the zipper before proceeding.

Pin the top right sides together with the bean bag, aligning the raw edges. Sew the top in place using 1/2″ seam allowance.

Toddler Bean Bag Pattern by Vanessa Goertzen

Repeat to add the bottom, but double check that the zipper is open before you do. 

Finally, turn the bean bag right-side out through the zipper opening.

Toddler Bean Bag Pattern by Vanessa Goertzen

Repeat this whole sewing process (minus the zipper) with the lining pieces. When adding the final bottom round piece, only stitch it 2/3 of the way. Turn the lining right-side out through that hole and fill it with the polystyrene beads before stitching it closed.

A word about the polystyrene beads: Be sure to read and follow all instructions. They will cause a big mess if you’re not careful.

Toddler Bean Bag Pattern by Vanessa Goertzen

Once the bean bag is filled about 2/3 full, pin it shut and hand-stitch it closed.

Toddler Bean Bag Pattern by Vanessa Goertzen

Now you are ready to slip it into your beautiful bean bag cover. Zip up and enjoy! When it gets dirty, just unzip, remove the bean bag, and wash the bean bag cover.

 Toddler Bean Bag Pattern by Vanessa Goertzen

A fun and happy pint-sized bean bag perfect for any toddler!

Toddler Bean Bag Pattern by Vanessa Goertzen

Toddler Bean Bag Pattern by Vanessa Goertzen

Vanessa Goertzen

L.O.V.E. Mini Quilt Sampler

You gotta love leftovers in a bake shop, especially the kind that have no calories! 

When I was testing out different types of reverse applique for a recent project I trotted out some slices of my Marmalade layer cake that hadn’t been used in Marmalade Circles.  They were perfect for this sweet Valentine sampler.

The sampler measures 9 1/2″ x 9 1/2″  – a perfect Valentine for yourself or a quilty friend.

4, 10″ x 10″ squares of coordinating fabric
Pearl cotton
Fray Check
Sharpie Marker (for paper)
Fabric Marker
Short Pointy Sharp scissors
Applique pins

Cutting Instructions:

  • Choose fabrics for letters and backgrounds.  Cut 4, 5″x5″ squares of each
  • Choose fabric for binding.  Cut 5, 2″ x 10″ strips
  • Use remaining 10″ x 10″ square for backing.

Lettering Instructions:   The point of this project, at least for me, was to try out different types of applique, specifically reverse applique.  Reverse applique is a method by which layers of fabric are used to create designs as bits are secured and cut away.  Kind of like the ancient sculptors who “found” their masterpieces hidden in the stones that they chiseled…only this is fabric…and I’ve never found a handsome hunk hidden in the layers of fiber.  

You  are more than welcome to use a different method of applique.  My templates would work for either fusible or traditional techniques.  Go for it.

The following instructions tell you how I did what I did.   I tried two methods, one done by hand, and one by machine.  There are two samples of each method in this tiny quilt.

Made using 4, slices of layer cake from Marmalade by Bonnie & Camille
By hand…
The letters O and V were drawn on to the striped fabric. I then layered that patch a top the floral. I snipped the top fabric about 1/4″ from the drawn line (starting with the center, else it would fall away.) flipped the edge under and hand sewed along the tracing line (now at the edge of the patch.) I continued that process until the whole letter had been revealed.
By machine….
The letters L and E  were drawn onto the floral fabric. I then layered the patch atop a striped charm and machine sewed a scant 1/4″ to the outside of my traced line. Once the L was completely traced with stitches I carefully trimmed away the top layer (leaving about 1/8″ raw edge) and applied Fray Check to the loose edges.

As a long arm quilter, I have found that loose edges can cause problems. To minimize the floppiness I went back and hand embellished the edges with pearl cotton.  (Another option would be to use your machine and do some decorative stitching to hold the edges down.)

As I mentioned earlier, it is perfectly acceptable, and probably a lot easier to fuse the letters. If you choose to do it this way, the templates can do double duty. Use the box around each letter to help center the letters on each charm.
Getting down to business

  • Print letter templates.
    • At the bottom of this post is a “Printer Friendly Version” button that looks like the picture above….only it will actually take you somewhere.
    • Clicking on it will take you to a place where you can print it all out.
    • There are 4 different letters.
    • You will need to make one of each.
    Reverse Applique
    • Each template is drawn in 5″ square. When you print them, make sure that the square measures 5″.
    • You need to be able to see the outlines of the letters/shape through the fabric. I found the lines printer by my printer to be insufficient to this task.
    • To fix the problem I drew on them with a sharpie marker.
    • WARNING – be careful of your writing surface, you don’t want to ruin your cutting mat with Sharpie bleed through.
  • Using light box, or masking tape and a window, trace letters onto the right side of each 5″ x 5″ square that you intend to use as the background fabric. 
  • Reverse Applique
  • Layer each charm square atop one letter fabric square.
Reverse Applique
    • Layer them so that both right sides are up….like pages in a note pad.
    Reverse Applique
    • Using large basting stitches, sew 1/8″ from each edge.
      • This will hold your pieces together while you are working with the fabric in the middle to reveal the letters.
      • The smaller than normal “seam allowance” will ensure that the stitching doesn’t show when you put all of the blocks together.
  • Applique letters onto blocks.
    • For L and O
    • Reverse Applique
      • Snip the top fabric about 1/4″ from the drawn line (starting with the center if you are working on something with a floating piece like center of  O)   Make your cut only about an inch or two long so that you are only cutting what you are working on at the moment. Clip curves, and corners to make flipping under the edge easier.
      • Flip the edge under
      • Pin in place as needed.
      • Sew along the tracing line (now at the edge of the patch.) with a hidden stitch like you would use if you were binding your quilt or hemming something. Continued that process until the whole letter is revealed.
    • For V and E
      • Sew a scant 1/4″ to the outside of the tracing lines.
      • Trim the fabric on the tracing lines
      • Apply a thin coating of Fray Check to the exposed raw edges
      • Secure edges as desired.
  • Assemble the top.
    •  NOTE your blocks will be thicker than normal.  That is to be expected.  It is a result of the double layers used in reverse applique.  As you sew your top together iron the seam allowances OPEN.  This will spread out the bulk.  I know it makes aligning the corners more difficult, but you will thank me when you go to quilt it. 
    • Sew the L block to the O block
    • Sew the V block to the E block
    • Sew two rows together to make top
  • Layer, quilt, and bind as desired.

It was once common practice for children to make samplers of their needle work.  It provided a record of stitches, helped them with their tecnique, and taught them various important lessons as they stitched out the words.  (Imagine stitching out “I will not talk in class!”  he, he, he.  That sampler didn’t make it down to us.  I wonder why.)  This recipe yields one sweet lesson in LOVE, and two in reverse applique.  It would be perfect to hang on a wall, in a quiet corner or your home or office.  If you have a little girl in your life it might also be used to cover Barbie’s bed.

I’d love to see your finished project.  Please add it to the Flickr group Tops to Treasures.

Cindy Sharp

Marmalade Squares Quilt

Happy January! It is LeAnne Ballard from Everyday Celebrations and I am excited to be here today sharing a bright and cheery quilt. I’ve been wanting to make a postage stamp quilt for awhile and decided put a little twist on this classic to make one darling little quilt.

This quilt features four different postage stamp‘esque’ blocks. Also, this quilt uses strip piecing so don’t fret over all those little squares. (The squares are 1.5″ finished.) If you like, you may add an initial for personalization. This quilt was made for my daughter’s 1st birthday so personalization was a must. I also will share this cute little coordinating dolly quilt.

1 Layer Cake, Marmalade by Bonnie and Camille
1 1/8 yard neutral, Bella Solid in Bleached White 97
1 3/4 yard backing, Dot in Strawberry
1/2 yard binding, Sugar in Raspberry
1 fat quarter – for appliqued initial, Bella Solid in Tea Rose 9900 89
60″ x 50″ piece of batting
6″ square of iron on adhesive, such as Heat n’ Bond Lite

2 fat quarters, for dolly quilt
crochet lace, for dolly quilt

  • Seam allowances are 1/4″.
  • RST = right sides together
  • WOF = width of fabric
  • blocks will measure 9.5″ square unfinished
  • If you wish to personalize your quilt, you will need to print off an initial. To do this, just type your desired letter in a blank document in Microsoft Word or other program. You want your letter to measure no more than 5″ tall. (There are rulers on the side of the document in Microsoft Word.) When you print, make sure you select the ‘mirror’ or ‘flipped’ option so the letter is BACKWARDS. If you don’t know how to do this, print normally and tape to a sunny window, with the back of the paper facing you. Then trace the letter onto iron-on adhesive.

This quilt is made up of four different blocks.

#1 – you will make {6}

#2 – you will make {3}

#3 – you will make {2}

#4 – you will make {1}


1. From the Layer Cake, reserve {4} squares. These will be used in blocks #2,  #3, and #4.

2. From remaining Layer Cake squares cut {80} 2″ x 10″ strips. Reserve two strips for block #3.

3. Sashing from neutral cut:
{2} 3″ x WOF strips then subcut into {8} 9.5″ strips.
{3} 3″ x WOF strips

4. Borders from neutral cut:
{4} 5.5″ x WOF strips

Making Patchwork Strips

5. Sew {6} 2″ x 10″ strips together to make {1} 9.5″ x 10″ block. Make {13}  total blocks. Press seams as desired.

6. Cut {5} 2″ x 9.5″ strips from each block for a total of {65} strips.  These will be called “patchwork strips”.


7. Sew {6} patchwork strips together to make {1} 9.5″ square block.  Repeat for {6} blocks total.

Block #2

8. Cut one reserved Layer Cake square to 9.5″ x 10″.  Then cut {1} 2.5″ x 9.5″ strip and {1} 6″ x 9.5″ strip.

9. Sew {1} patchwork strip to the 2.5″ x 9.5″ strip. Press as desired. Then sew the 6″x 9.5″ strip to the other side of the patchwork strip. Press as desired. Repeat for {3} blocks total. (Sorry for the change in fabrics in the photos.)

Block #3

10. Sew {1}  patchwork strip to one of the reserved 2″ x 10″ strips. Press as desired. Then sew {4} patchwork strips together and sew to the other side of the 2″ x 10″ strip. Press as desired. Repeat for {2} blocks total. 

Block #4

11. From the remaining reserved Layer Cake square cut {1} 6.5″ square.

12. From {2} patchwork strips and remove {2} squares using a seam ripper. (These strips will now have 4 squares.) Press shortened strips. Sew to the top and bottom of the 6.5″ square. Press as desired.

13. Sew {2} patchwork strips to the sides of the block to complete. Press as desired.

14. To make the initial, trace the letter on to the iron on adhesive following the package directions. Adhere to center of the block. Applique as desired, I used a machine blanket stitch.

Quilt Assembly:

15. Layout the blocks in desired fashion or use quilt diagram. Sew blocks together in 4 rows of 3, with one 3″ x 9.5″ neutral strip between each block.

16. Measure the length of one row and cut {1} 3″ x WOF strip the same length. Sew rows together with one 3″ strip between the rows. Repeat for remaining rows. Press.

 17. Measure top and bottom of quilt and cut {2} 5.5″ strips the same length. (Save leftover for the sides.) Sew leftover 5.5″ strips to the two remaining 5.5″ x WOF strips. Measure sides and cut strips to same length. Pin and sew. Press quilt top.

 18. Baste, quilt and bind. Cut {4} 2.5″ x WOF strips for binding.

Dolly Quilt:
I’ve learned that whenever I make a quilt I had better just make a little dolly quilt. Otherwise, my quilts end up as dolly quilts by my sweet girls. Which is fine, but just a little challenging for little hands. 🙂  So using the remaining patchwork strips we will make one cute dolly quilt.

1. Sew {11} patchwork strips together.

2. Measure the length of the patchwork unit and cut {2} 4.5″ x (that length)” strips from one fat quarter.

3. If you desire, sew crochet lace to the sides of the patchwork unit. Cut two lengths of lace just a touch longer than the length of the patchwork unit. Pin lace about 1/8″ in from the edge of the unit. (My lace was narrower so I did this so the lace didn’t disappear in the seam allowance, if your lace is wider you could just line it up with the edge.) Baste lace in place close to the edge of the lace.

4. Sew 4.5″ strip to the side of the patch work unit using a scant 1/4″ seam allowance. (Again so I didn’t loose the lace in the seam allowance.) Press. Repeat for the other side.

5. Baste, quilt, and bind if desired. (Use the remaining fat quarter for backing.)

6. However, I was on a time crunch for this project so I decided to forgo the binding. Instead I just sewed white ric rac all along the edge of the dolly quilt. To do this baste the ric rac along the edge of the quilt top. I didn’t bother pinning, just line it up as you sew.

7. Then I cut my backing (from the remaining fat quarter) to the exact size as my dolly quilt top. I placed RST and pinned in place. Then sew together, leaving an opening along one of the fat quarter sides.  (It is tricky when you leave the opening along the patchwork edge.) Turn and press. Top stitch close to the edge sewing the opening close as you topstitch. I also topstiched about 1/8″ in from the lace.

{1} 53″ x 42″ snugly quilt + {1} 15.5″ x 16.5″ dolly quilt

LeAnne Ballard

120-Minute Gift: Drunkard’s Path Table Runner

Drunkard’s Table Runner: ‘marmalade’ with a festive spin:  A 12.5” x 54” table runner featuring “Marmalade” by Bonnie and Camille for Moda, >composed of (5) 9.5” square drunkard’s path blocks

Recipe Pattern by Erin Davis of Sew at Home Mummy

Hi all!

I wanted to do something festive for my dining room table, and I thought, hey! I love ‘marmalade’, why not pair it with a modern red & green to give the line a Christmas-y spin? I love the way it turned out – it looks good on my table for the upcoming holidays, yet I could most definitely pull it off year round! I had a lot of fun composing this runner and I have to say: don’t be scared of curved piecing! Look how gorgeous it looks when it’s done. This would make a fantastic holiday gift, too. 

Happy sewing, quilting and crafting everyone!

Cheers and enjoy the project,


– 1 Moda ‘marmalade’ by bonnie and camille Charm Pack
– 1 yard Bella Solids ‘Pistachio’
– 1/3 yards Bella Solids ‘Scarlet’
– 16”x60” piece of batting

From charm squares:
see attached templates (A) & (B) in the printable version of the post… I cut mine from the cardboard on the back of the charm square pack, like this:

***sort the charm squares as you like – have fun with it! I pre-sorted my squares into colorways (i.e. – all the ‘reds’ in one stack, all the yellows in another, etc. and then paired the patterns based on what I’d like to see as the center wedge piece, and what I’d like to see as the outer ‘L’ piece.***

·         Cut 20 pieces of template (A) (creating the ‘wedge’ shapes)

·         Cut 20 pieces of template (B) (creating the ‘L’ shapes)

Tip: when cutting curved pieces, try to use the smallest sized rotary cutter you have; you’ll find it much easier to navigate the curves.Your cut pieces will look like this, with the wedge-shaped piece appearing larger than the concave part of the ‘L’ shape – don’t worry:

This is what you want – it’s the seam allowances that make it appear too big to fit.

From yardage:

Cut (2) pieces of 16” x 30”
Cut (4) pieces 2”x9.5”
Cut (2) pieces 2”x12.5”
Cut (3) strips 2”x width of fabric

Piecing (Runner Top):
1. Sort your A’s and B’s in combinations of fours (there will be 4 each of A’s and B’s in one block) ; I sorted by colorway in a way that was aesthetically pleasing to me. Have fun with it!

Have fun arranging your pieces
2. Attach piece (A)s to piece (B)s, creating quarter block units. If you have never pieced Drunkard’s blocks before, here are some tips.

a. Fold your Piece (A) and (B) in half along the cut curve, and finger press like so:

b. Match your finger press marks, right sides together, and pin

Tip: When pinning for curved seams, try to have your pin enter where the sewing line will be – i.e. ¼” from the edge of the fabric, and only ‘grab’ a small amount of fabric with pin

c. Match the two outside edges together; pin in the same manner as described above. Place pins along the rest of the curve, easing the fabric to fit.

d.  Sew the two pieces together. I have sewn both with the wedge piece (piece (A)) on top, and the wedge piece on bottom. Personally, I find it easier with the ‘L’ shaped piece (or piece (B)) on top – but you’ll have to play with it to find what you’re most comfortable with. Here are some tips I have found helpful for sewing curved seams:

                             i. Slow and steady; don’t expect to zip around these curves like straight piecing (unless you’re pro! haha)

                             ii. Leave your pins in to the last minute, without sewing over them.

                             iii. every 3-5 stitches, lift your presser foot, pivot slightly, adjust your fabrics, etc.

                             iv. always be conscious of the fabric about to enter under your presser foot – make sure there are no lumps and bumps.

                             v. I have some more tips on my blog – I recently finished a 4” apple core quilt and posted ideas on curved piecing here: 
                             Sew at Home Mummy: Apple Core Quilt
e.  When you’re done sewing, you’ll have a block that looks like this:

f.   Press towards piece (A)s.
g.  Join two quarter blocks to create a half block; press. Repeat with other half of block.
                   Join two half block pieces, matching center seams. Press center seam open.
3.  Arrange completed blocks in an orientation you like. When you’re happy with your layout, attach 2”x9.5” sashing pieces (in ‘Scarlet’) between blocks to create table runner top, like so:
4.  Sew the (3) 2”x width of fabric (in ‘Scarlet’) together, creating one long strip. Use strip to border runner. ‘Cap’ ends with (2) 2” x 12.5” pieces:
Piecing (Backing & Binding):
1.  Sew short ends of the two 16”x30” pieces of ‘Pistachio’ together, creating a backing measuring 16”x60” with a ½” seam allowance. Press seam open.

2.  Use remaining ‘Pistachio’ for binding (as desired).
1.       Layer, baste and quilt as desired.
2. Bind as desired with remaining ‘Pistachio’. I used a decorative top-stitch on the binding seam to jazz it up a bit. 
One gorgeous ‘marmalade’ table runner with a festive spin.

If you have a minute, pop by my blog and see what shenanigans are brewing – there’s always something happening.

Erin Davis

{Sew at Home Mummy}

Big thanks to Moda for giving me the opportunity to work with their gorgeous fabrics again!

120-Minute GIft: Tea Party Tuffets

Brighten up your space with Vanessa’s happy little Tea Party Tuffets. Make them simple with just yardage or add a little patchwork fun with charm packs. There are so many lovely possibilities!

*Fabric is “Marmalade” by Bonnie & Camille

  • 1 charm pack or 3/4 yard fabric for Tuffet-Top
  • 3/4 yard fabric for Tuffet-Bottom
  • 3/4 yard fabric for Tuffet-Side
  • 1 Tea Party Tuffet PDF pattern {see Printer Friendly file at bottom of post}
  • 6 lbs polyester fiberfill

  • 4-1/2 yards decorative trim or piping

*Print out all pages of the Tea Party Tuffet PDF pattern. Be sure to print at 100% scale on regular 8.5 x 11″ paper and assemble according to pattern instructions.  

PLEASE NOTE: There will be small gaps in the pattern circle shape where the pages are taped together–this is okay! Do not trim or overlap the pages in an attempt to connect the lines.
Once all pages are taped together, cut out the pattern.

Tuffet-Top: Use the pattern to cut one circle from the tuffet-top fabric. If using a charm pack instead of yardage, refer to the Patchwork Tuffet-Top instructions.
Tuffet-Bottom: Use the pattern to cut one circle from the tuffet-bottom fabric.

Patchwork Tuffet-Top: You will need 36 of the 42 charm squares; organize them into six rows with six charm squares per row.

Assuming 1/4″ seam allowance, sew the charm squares into their rows, pressing open the seams afterwards. Sew the rows together, lining up the seams and pinning in place beforehand. Press those seams open as well.

Center the pattern and cut out one circle for your tuffet-top.

INTERFACING OPTION: At this point, I like to iron a feather weight fusible interfacing to the back of each tuffet-top and tuffet-bottom piece. It makes the fabric feel a bit stiffer and gives an overall stability to the shape of the finished product that I really love! Not a requirement though.

EMBELLISHMENT OPTION: Another option is to embellish your tuffet-top and tuffet-bottom pieces with some sort of trim. I’ll use pom-pom trim to demonstrate, but there are many trim options you could use!

In all likelihood, you will need to use a zipper foot to stitch your trim in place.  In general, you’ll want the seam allowance to be about 1/2″.  Because the pom-pom trim is so skinny, I’m going to lay it down 1/4″ in from the raw edge of the fabric, pom-poms on the inside.

Whatever trim you use, I sometimes find it helpful to remember that everything left of the needle/stitching is what is going to show.

Once you’ve sewn almost all the way around, cut the end of the trim to overlap with the beginning-piece and resume stitching it down.

TUFFET SIDE: From the tuffet-side fabric, cut two strips 12″ x WOF; subcut into two 12 x 37″ strips. (Iron fusible interfacing to the back of each if you’ve done it to the tuffet-top and tuffet-bottom pieces.)


To sew them into a tube: bring the 12 x 37″ strips right sides together, aligning the raw edges, and pin along the 12″ sides.

[Switch to a regular presser foot and] sew down the 12″ sides using 1/2″ seam allowance, leaving a 6-7″ gap unstitched in the center of one of those sides as indicated by the diagram below. (This is how we will turn our tuffet right-side out later).

Press open the seams. (Here is the side with the gap.)


Pin the edges of the tuffet-top to the top-side of the tube, right sides together. 

UNEMBELLISHED TUFFET: Sew the tuffet-top and tube together using 1/2″ seam allowance.
EMBELLISHED TUFFET: Re-install the zipper foot and sew the the tuffet-top and tube together using the same seam allowance used to sew the trim in place (approximately 1/2″). The easiest way to do this is just sew along the seam showing on the wrong side of the tuffet-top.  (I apologize I neglected to take a picture of this as it makes more sense than what I did–I lined the zipper foot up against the bulk of the pom-pom trim and [blindly] stitched with the tube-side fabric showing on top.)


Pin the tuffet-bottom to the other side of the tube, right sides together and repeat.

Turn the tuffet right-side out through the 6-7″ gap in the side.

Your tuffet will look quite sad and saggy without stuffing, so fill it! I stuffed mine pretty full so it would be nice and sturdy.

Once it’s full to your liking, fold the edges in at the hole and pin closed. (This is probably the toughest part of the whole project!) Stitch the hole closed by hand (I recommend a ladder stitch).

 An adorable tuffet!

Vanessa Goertzen

30-Minute Gift: Patchwork Wine Bag

Hey, gang! I can’t tell you how thrilled I am to bring you (TADA!) my first ever project for Moda Bake Shop. My name is Mary Miller and I have a little table in the blogateria that I call Spoolhardy Girl . I hope you’ll come by and visit when you are finished here. (Pssst! Can you smell the giveaway I’ve got cooking? MMMM Modalicious, if you get my drift.)

I don’t have to remind you that the holidays are quickly approaching. Parties, cookie exchanges and chaos will ensue.  I am horrible about planning ahead for hostess gifts. I usually grab a bottle of wine and call it a day.  I happen to think wine is a perfectly lovely gift. If you ever want to give me wine, I’ll be more than happy to accept. But let’s gussy that bottle up a little, shall we?

One Mini Charm Pack of a Moda fabric of your choice. I used Marmalade by Bonnie and Camille.

One 2 1/2″ x 12.5″ (or even a bit more) strip coordinating fabric. I used Bella Solid Sunshine.
One 5″x 5″ square coordinating solid (also Bella Solid Sunshine)
One sharp #2 pencil

One 5″ x 5″ Fusible Fleece
One 5″ x 5″ square of freezer paper
Dritz Elastic Threading Tool
1/4″ presser foot (Highly recommended)

All seams are 1/4″

Let’s begin! Choose 25 individual squares from your mini charm pack and line them up in a 5 x 5 square grid like so:

Sew your rows together this way:

This picture is probably unnecessary, but I just learned how to make
the little arrows and I wanted to show off.

Press your seam allowances open.

Next, sew your rows together, and press your seams open.

Take a minute to admire this pretty panel you’ve made, then set it aside for a bit.

Next we are going to work on your bag bottom. No, not your baggy bottom. I have my own baggy bottom I need to work on, I can’t help you there! Anyway, on to the bottom of your bag!
This is where your #2 pencil and your freezer paper comes into play.
Place your pencil so that it is flat up against your bottle of wine, and the point is headed directly downward.

Thank you to Mr. Wonderful for taking this picture!

Trace all the way around the bottle. Now, you could skip the freezer paper step and do this directly onto your fabric, but I have a heck of a time getting the pencil to write on the fabric, so I do it this way. I also don’t recommend using a washable fabric pen because they tend to be wider than a pencil and that puts the mark too far away from the bottle, making your bottom too big. We all know we don’t want bottoms that are too big!

Once you have your circle made, take a ruler and mark a dotted line 1/4″ away from your original line.

Bring your freezer paper template, your fusible fleece (if using) and your 5″ x 5″ piece of fabric to your ironing board. I really like the idea of using the fleece in this step because it will give your bag bottom added support and a little bit of cushioning (I’m not even going to go for the joke here. It’s just too easy).

Place the freezer paper template shiny side down onto your fabric. If you are using a printed fabric, you want the right side facing up. Press with a hot iron for about 10-15 seconds. turn this unit over so that the fabric is facing up and the paper is on the ironing board. Place your square of fusible fleece adhesive (bumpy) side down and press with a steamy iron for about 15-20 seconds.

You should now have a unit that looks like this:

Freezer paper fused to fabric which is fused to fleece.

Cut around your dotted line and remove the freezer paper. Set aside.

Next we are going to make a band for the top of your bag. Take your 2 1/2″ strip of fabric fold and press it in half lengthwise, WRONG sides together.

Bring your strip back to the panel that you made and lay it out open so that about an inch hangs off of each side.

Fold the short end of the fabric back on itself so that the fold is just barely over the edge of your panel.

Do the same for the other end of your strip. Press at the folds.

Bring your strip to the machine and top stitch both ends barely 1/8″ away from the fold.

Trim excess from the seam allowances.

Please forgive my nasty thread tangles. I was having an argument with my
machine this day!

Fold lengthwise again wrong sides together and press.  Place your folded strip piece right sides together on top of your panel piece with raw edges aligned making sure that you have a bit of the top stitched ends sticking off the ends of your panel. Sew together. Press seam toward the panel.

If you want to give your bag a nice finished look top stitch about 1/8″ away from the seam you just made. This is completely up to you, and will only add decorative appeal to your bag.

Fold your panel in half right sides together and pin raw edges.

Begin stitching down this long side just below the seam created when you sewed your band on. You don’t want to sew the band shut, you’re going to need it in a minute! Back stitch at the beginning and ending of your stitching.

How cute is this sleeve!? If I could sew a shirt I would totally make a patchwork shirt just like this. Only I can’t, sew a shirt. I just took this picture to demonstrate that you have now sewn a nice tube.

Remember that circle we made with the fusible fleece? It’s time to sew it onto your tube. Yes. You are going to sew a circle onto a tube. I’m here to tell you, this is NOT hard. You can do this. Trust me. Take a deep breath and relax your shoulders. You are going to feel like a sewing goddess when I’m finished with you!

You want to pin your circle to the bottom (not the band end) of your bag. Pin it right sides together so that the white fusible fleece is facing out. Make sure that the edges of your circle are lined up neatly with the edges of the bag. I find that 8 pins placed at equal intervals around the circle are about right.

The key to getting this right is to go slowly. Place the bag under the presser foot. This is where a 1/4″foot comes in really handy. Make sure the edge of your fabric is nestled right up against the guide of your foot and slooowwwly begin to stitch. After 4 or 5 stitches lift your foot keeping the needle down, and realign the fabric so that it stays right up against your guide. As you remove your pins, make sure that your fabric edge is still lined up with your fleece edge. Also make sure that the fabric under the foot is laying flat. That’s it. Just work your way around and you’ll be fine, promise!
Cut the excess seam allowance to about 1/8″.

There. You did it! Give yourself a little pat on the back.

We’re in the home stretch now! We just need a pretty tie.

Take the remaining mini squares from your charm pack and sew them together in one long strip.
Press seams open.

Fold your strip in half lengthwise with right sides together.

Sew down the long side and across ONE of the short sides of this strip.

Now we need to turn this tube inside out. There are tools that you can buy to help do this, but I find that a wooden skewer or dowel works just fine. Place one end of the skewer against the sewn end of your tube. I like to place the other end of the skewer on my tummy, or on my work table. Then just begin to slip the fabric down over the skewer.

Continue easing the fabric down the skewer until it is completely right side out. Then press out the wrinkles.

Remember that Dritz Elastic Threader? I have to tell you, I have never once put elastic in one of my projects, but I use this little gizmo all the time. It was a total impulse purchase at Joann’s one day, and it has become one of my go to notions. We are going to use it to get the tie through the band at the top of the bag. If you don’t have an elastic threader, don’t sweat. Just use a large safety pin.

Thread the UNSEWN end of your tie through the top notch on the threader. OR pin your safety pin to the end. Put the threader into the hole on your band and work the fabric through until it comes out the other end. Tug on the tie so that it hangs out of the band equally on both sides.

Let’s tidy up the un-sewn end of the tie. Tuck the end in approximately 1/4″ and topstitch at 1/8″.

Done! Sit back and enjoy your handy work. Maybe pour yourself a glass of wine. Just not from the bottle you’re giving away!

One pretty darn cute wine bag that fits a standard wine bottle.  If you like to give your wine away by the jug or the box, hey, go for it! I don’t judge but, sadly, this project won’t work for you. May I suggest yarn bombing?

 Mary Miller

Charmalade Quilt

I am so pleased and excited to be posting my very first Moda Bake Shop project!  I am Pam Lincoln of Mama Spark’s World, and my blog can be found here.    I am a HUGE fan of half square triangles (HST) and hope you are too.  They are so versatile to work with.  I had a lot of fun making this quilt and I hope you will enjoy making one with me.  Let’s get started now shall we?

3 Charm Packs of Marmalade (SKU 55050PP)
2 Charm Packs Moda Bella Snow
1 3/4 yards Moda Bella Snow (borders) (SKU 9900 11)
1/2 yard Marmalade raspberry and white stripe (SKU 55054 12)
4 yards Marmalade Red Flower on Aqua (backing) (SKU 55050 17)

This quilt finishes at 56″ x 68.” Use all 1/4″ seams throughout the project.

Select 65 Marmalade charms to be used for your HSTs.

Select 26 Marmalade charms to set aside to be used for your pieced border (more on this later)

You need 65 Moda Bella Snow charms.  Use these with your 65 Marmalade charm squares to make your Half Square Triangles (130 HST total).  Pair them up.  I like to put the MB Snow on top for ease of viewing my drawn line when it is time to sew.

Draw a diagonal line from corner to corner on each of your 65 MB Snow charms.

When you have that done you will sew 1/4″ on either side of the line.

After you have all your units sewn cut them apart on the drawn line.  Press all HST units open with the seams pressed to the dark side.  Each HST unit will need to be trimmed to 4.5″ square.  I love using my 4.5″ruler and a cutting mat that turns to do this.  WEE lots of trimming!!  This will make putting them together much easier too.

The next part is really a lot of fun.  Time to lay out the center of your quilt!  I used the floor but if you have a design wall now is the time to use it.  I found that I needed to make a few more HST units to replace some of the ones I had made originally.  You should have a few to play with, but make sure you saved your border squares out first!!  Lay out the center and move it around until you are happy with your placement.

It is time to sew your squares together into rows.  I chain piece so I put a pin in the square on the left  of each pair and sew from left to right across the row.  So the first pair are the first two in the row, the second pair are 3 and 4 and so on.

Once you have all your rows sewn press each row’s seams in opposite directions ie, even rows to the right odd rows to the left etc.

Next you will be sewing your rows together.  This is where a little bit of time spent pinning helps with not cutting off your points!  If you have pressed your row right and left as above the seams should “nest” like this.  You can check while pinning that the pin is just at the point on each side of the intersection.  I sew right up to the pin and then take it out. 

You can press your seams toward the top or bottom of the quilt, or open it really doesn’t matter, as long as you press them!  The center of your top should now be complete. 

Borders: You should measure your center before you cut these.  I will tell you my measurements but yours may be slightly different from mine.  Always best to measure twice and cut once!

My center, all sewn, measured 40.5″ x 52.5″

First Snow Borders:

Cut 2 strips 2.5″ x WOF (width of fabric).  You will use this for the top and bottom borders.

Using your width measurement (mine was 40.5″) Cut 2

I sewed my top and bottom first so I did not need to piece them.

Match the center of the border strip with the center of your quilt and pin.  Pin border at both ends.  Place pins in between easing as necessary.  Sew top and bottom border to quilt, press to the border.

Cut 3 strips 2.5″ x WOF .  Sew these together and press the seams open, this will be used for your sides.

Measure your top length with the new borders and cut two strips from the three strips you sewed together to match this measurement.  Mine was 2.5″ x 56.5″

These will be your side borders.

To make sure your borders fit fold the border in half and pin at the halfway point on the center part of your quilt and then pin the ends.  You can ease in the border or the center if necessary.  Pin borders along the way before sewing in place.  Sew side borders, press to the border.

Pieced Borders

You should have 26 Marmalade charm squares selected for your pieced borders.  You will need to cut each square 2.5″ x 4.5″

*Tip if you are using directional fabric you may want to cut some horizontally and some vertically.

I made stacks for each border before I sewed them together.  Two stacks of 12 (top and bottom borders) and 2 stacks of 14 (side borders).

Sewing end to end sew 2 strips using 14 of the 2.5″ x 4.5″ rectangles(these will be the sides) and 2 strips using 12 rectangles (these will be the top and bottom) to make 4 long strips.  Press seams in one direction.  I sewed each side row using the same fabrics in the same order and flipped them when I sewed them onto the quilt.  For instance in the photo above the dots would be on the left for the top border and on the right for the bottom border, but you can sew them randomly or in any pattern you like!

Pin the side borders first, matching the center of the border with the center of the quilt.  Pin each end, and along the border.  Ease as necessary.  Press to the colored border to minimize any show through.  Apply top and bottom borders in this same way.

Second Snow Borders:

Cut 7 strips 4.5″ x WOF

Sew 2 sets of 2 strips to be used for your your side borders.  Press seams open.  Again, measure your quilt top and cut your border length to fit the measurement of your top.

 I cut my side borders 60.5″ x 4.5 “

Pin side borders by matching the center of your border to the center of your quilt and match up your ends.  Pin border to your quilt and ease as necessary.  Sew side borders to the quilt top.  Press to the outer, snow border.

Sew the remaining 3 strips together.  Pressing seams open.   Measure your top and use that measurement to cut your top and bottom borders from this strip.

My measurement was 56.5″ x 4.5″.

Pin top and bottom borders by matching the center of your border to the center of your quilt and match up your ends.  Pin border to your quilt and ease as necessary.  Sew top and bottom borders to your quilt top.    Press to the outer, snow border. 

Wow, can you believe it?  Your top is now all finished!  On to the back.


Cut your 4 yard piece in half.  Remove the selvages.  Putting right sides together sew along the 72″ side lining up the top and bottom.  Press your seam open.

Sandwich your quilt top, batting and backing together and quilt as desired.  I chose feathers and straight lines. My friend, Liz, that has a long arm instructed me in how to make the feathers using her machine, she did the the circles and then I did all the straight lines using my Bernina.


I chose a stripe for my binding and cut it on the bias.  You will have half a yard for binding.  I cut my strips 2.5″, sewed the cut strips together into one long piece and pressed the strip in half width wise.   Apply binding using your favorite method and voila! You have a wonderful finished quilt!!

I hope you have enjoyed making this charming little quilt with me and I would love to see your finished quilts.  Please post them in my Flickr group.  If you have any questions or if something is unclear please let me know and I would be happy to help you out!

 This recipe yields one 56″ x 68″quilt, perfect for a couch throw or a great picnic quilt too!

Please stop by and visit me over at my blog.  I would love to have you stop in.  Also, if you make a quilt from this tutorial please link up to the Flickr group here.  I really enjoyed making this quilt and sharing it with everyone!

Pamela Lincoln


 Oh and thanks to my quilt tester, Jack

Dancing Daisies (A Drunkard’s Path Quilt)

Hi, It’s Cathy Victor from “Me and My Mum Quilting” and I’m very pleased and excited to be posting my very first Moda Bake Shop tutorial.  This tutorial is for all of you quilters who have been nervous about trying a Drunkard’s Path quilt. I will show you an easy way to put together a layout that I call “Dancing Daisies.”
I chose to use Moda layer cakes for my quilt, but charm packs could be used instead, or yardage of course.  

I hope after seeing how easy it is to make this quilt, you’ll make one for yourself or a loved one.  Please feel free to ask any questions or leave me any comments. You can find me on my blog: 
I’d also love to see any pictures of your own Drunkard’s Path.

Quilt Top

1 Layer cake (or 4 charm packs) of Marmalade by Bonnie & Camille 55050LC

1 Layer cake (or 4 charm packs) of Bella Solids 9900LC-11

4 yards of 55052-17 

1/2 yard of 55054-15 

* If making the bonus pillow you will need 46″ of additional yardage.*


Grab your Marmalade Layer Cake and open it up.  If you don’t want to make the bonus pillow, you may remove 2 squares that are doubles or that you don’t like.  I stacked three at a time, lining them up perfectly, and cut them into four 5″ squares. Continue doing this until you have completed the stack. Leave these stacks them in 4 identical piles (you’ll see why in a minute).

Grab your Bella Solids Layer Cake (or yardage), and do the exact same as above. Leave this in 4 piles, as well. You will have 40-42 squares in each pile.

Here are my piles:

4 piles of Bella Solid and
4 piles of Marmalade

Again, they measure 5″ square.

Grab 1 pile of your Marmalade squares and 1 pile of Bella solid squares and proceed to the next step…

Click on the Printer Friendly Version at the bottom of this post to download the template I used for tracing.  I traced the pattern onto some rigid cardboard, so it wouldn’t bend when I was tracing the shapes onto the fabric. You can use template plastic or just regular paper if you are careful. If you have an acrylic ruler or set of templates for Drunkard’s Path, use those instead.

Place the “clam” template on the WRONG side of your Marmalade squares.  I put the straight edges of the template aligned with the cut edges of the fabric.

I did piles of 3.  I found more than that moved too much.  Do as many as you are comfortable with.

Trace around the template with pen or pencil (that you can see) being careful not to disturb your fabric.

Next, place the “arch” template on the same pile of squares.  Match the template to the opposite corner.

There is some fabric visible at each end of the arch and also a sliver between the line you drew previously.

Trace along the edge of the Template using a pen or pencil, being careful not to disturb the pile.  You can pin the pile together in a few places to hold them together if you like.

Using scissors, I cut along the arch line, while holding the opposite end in your fingers.  Again, do not disturb the alignment of your piles.

Then, cut the tabs of the ends.

Next pick up the “clam” piece and cut off the sliver.  You can throw those extra pieces away.

Do this for all the Marmalade squares from your first pile.( 40-42 squares)

Do the exact same thing, to your pile of Bella solids.  Throw the excess cut bits away.

You now have 4 piles:

40 solid “clams” & 40 Marmalade “arches”
40 Marmalade “clams” & 40 solid “arches”.

I chose to do the Marmalade “clam” set first, but it doesn’t matter how you do it.

With right sides together, place the pieces as illustrated.  Pin.

Ease the pieces together so that they line up, every 1/2″ or so and pin.  

Ease and pin…

Ease and pin every 1/2″ or so and pin until you reach the other end.

This is what the pieces should look like when pinned.

This is the other side of the same block.

Try doing some pinned and then try some without pinning and see which method you prefer.  I don’t pin mine, but do what works best for you. 

Regardless of whether you pin or not they are sewn in the same way.  Start with the corner illustrated and using a 1/4″ seam begin sewing around the curve. 


With the needle in the lowered position, sew 5-7 stitches (1/2″) approx. then stop.

Needle down.

Lift your presser foot and line the fabrics up for the next bit.

Lower your foot and continue sewing around the curve 5-7 stitches at a time.

Stop with needle down.

Lift presser foot and align fabrics for the next bit.

Lower presser foot and continue sewing around the curve 5-7 stitches more.

Stop with needle down.

Continue doing this until you reach the end.

See how I swiveled the edges near the end so they line up.  Make sure you do this.

It goes much faster than it sounds, but again, try pinning some and not pinning some and see which method you prefer.

Do the same for the other set of pieces ( solid “clams” and marmalade “arches”.  Again with Right sides together.)

I pressed the blocks toward the Marmalade pieces.  They should measure 4.5″ at this point. 

If the “clam” or the “arch” don’t line up at the ends, you can square them up. Place your ruler onto the block and align the bottom left corner at the 4.5″ junction.  Line up the arches at the 3.25″ line in both places, as illustrated, and if anything extends outside the upper right side of the ruler you can trim this off.

 Yay! you just finished 80-84 blocks.  Take a break!!!

 When you are ready, grab your 2 piles of ironed blocks…

 They are laid out in this position, so find a large open space to lay out your blocks.

 Grab 2 of the Marmalade “Clam” blocks and place them in a diagonal position,starting in the upper left corner and the other in the bottom right position. Do this until all your “clam” blocks are laid out.

 I tried to make sure that no 2 patterns or colors were in the same block.

 Next, grab 2 of the Marmalade “Arches” and fill in the spaces left from the previous step.

Do this with all of the remaining “arches”, until you have all the blocks the way you like. DO NOT CHANGE THE PLACEMENT OF THE BLOCKS THOUGH!!!

Double and triple check that all the pieces are in the right configuration.

 When you have them all verified to look like the layout on the left, carefully transfer them to a ruler or other rigid surface. 

Layer them all onto the ruler, and carry them to your sewing machine.

Sew them together, sewing first the top row and then the bottom row.  You do not need to iron them yet.

Then grab the top row and the bottom row and nest the middle seam so the top is pointing up, and the bottom is facing down ( this way they won’t get caught in the feed dogs.)

 You can press the block now.

It should look like this…

and measure 8.5″ square.

Continue, sewing your blocks together, and pressing until the pile is done.

You now have 20 or 21 blocks completed to this stage.

So grab another set of 5″ squares and begin at the start, tracing, cutting sewing, etc; until that set is finished to the above stage.

Do this for the remaining sets of 5″ squares, until they are all complete to this stage.

* Note*:  I sewed these in this manner so the drunkard’s path blocks were a manageable amount and that they would be combined in an evenly random way.  Also by doing them in smaller batches your body would be less fatigued.

If you’ve made it this far, the hardest part is over.  Give yourself a huge pat on the back!! You deserve it!

Grab the first 20 blocks that you assembled earlier.  They will be laid out in the daisy shape like the picture shows on the left. I tried not to have any 2 colors or patterns touching.  

Continue making daisies until you have a row of 5 flowers. You may have to move them around a bit to find the layout you like the best.

 Do the same with the rest of the blocks. Each pile will make a row of 5 daisies.

Continue until you have 4 columns of 5.

*If you opted to make all the blocks from the Layer Cakes you will have enough left over to make 1 flower block as a pillow.*

Begin sewing the blocks into rows.

 Make sure that you pin every seam and match up the curves, and pin, pin, pin!!

Trust me, pins will be your friend. 

Take the extra time and match your seams.  You will be much happier with the results.

This picture shows that my blocks have been sewn into rows. 

Next, sew those rows together until the quilt is assembled.

If you wanted to add borders, you would do that now, but I liked the way it looked without borders.

 To make the backing: cut your 4 yd piece in half at 72″.  Take your 2 pieces and cut the selvages off. Line up the edges right sides together along the selvage end(the 72″ long side) and sew.

Press the seam.  You now have a piece that measures: 72″ x 84″.

Sandwich your backing, batting and quilt top together, and quilt and bind as desired.  I cut my binding strips at 2″ and that gave me a 1/4″ binding.

Yay! you did it! One finished twin-sized quilt.

Next up, instructions for the bonus pillow sham….

Pillow Sham Bonus Instructions:

 Lay out your remaining 4 blocks in the design shown in this picture.

Sew them together and press.

Don’t forget to pin those seams where they meet!!!

Cut your border strips :

( I used the fabric I cut off the edges off my quilt after I finished quilting it.)

2- 2.5″ x 17″    and

2- 2.5″ x 21″.

 Sew the 17″ strips down both sides of the pillow block, press and trim to square.

 Sew the 21″ strips to the top and bottom of the block, press and trim to square it up.

Cut a 22″ x 22″ piece of fabric and batting to create a quilt sandwich.

Layer, and quilt as desired. Trim off excess batting and backing.

Take a 24″ piece of yardage and cut it into 2 pieces measuring: 24″ x 21″. Fold both of these pieces in half so they measure 12″ x 21″, and press the fold.   Sew a 1\4″ along the pressed fold. Do this for both pieces.

Lay the first piece on top of the pillow with the fold in the middle and the raw edges matched up.

Pin in place and sew along the raw edges.    

 Do the same for the other side overlapping the folded seams, but still matching raw edges.  Pin in place and sew along the raw edges.  Trim any excess away.  

 Now, turn the pillow right side out.  Make sure your points are crisp( I used a chopstick into each corner).

Press and pin so that the borders are laying flat and the back is smooth and has no puckers.

I hand-basted around the borders, so that when I sewed it on the machine, the fabric didn’t pucker.

 Sew in-the-ditch around the borders as demonstrated in the picture.  Remove the hand-basting stitches.

You have now completed an accent pillow!! Just stuff it and it’s ready to go.

I hope you have enjoyed this tutorial, and that I’ve taken some of the fear out of tackling a Drunkard’s Path quilt.

One twin-sized or throw quilt measuring approx. 64″x 80″ and one throw pillow measuring 20″x20″ ( fits a 16″ pillow). 

Cathy Victor

Marmalade Circles Quilt

I am oh so thrilled to be back at the Moda Bake Shop today.  Get the fresh bread out of the oven and slice it up….I’ve got some sweet marmalade to share.  It is everything you would expect it to be!

This fabric totally appeals to the closet girlie girl in me.  When you live with a bunch of men it doesn’t pay to be too feminine.  They are like horses in a flower garden…they trample and eat what they like and leave you with fertilizer.   Don’t misunderstand me, I love my three sons, and husband, just like I love my three brothers and five nephews.  The world needs a few good men and I am proud of mine.  I’m just saying that they don’t appreciate pretty and having it around the house is an exercise in futility.  Thus I am a closet girlie girl.  However, this fabric all but rips that door off the hinges. 

Marmalade brings back summer days spent baking cookies and watching old movies.  I’m thinking of all of the great romantic comedies of the early studio system.  Ginger Rodgers and Fred Astaire especially come to mind.  Those movies made me want to sing and dance until my throat was froggy and my feet blistered.  They made me want to wear dresses with swirly skirts and stay out late dancing under the stars, dreaming dreams that only little girls can conjure up.  They made me want to share the adventure with my GIRL friends.  What better way to do that then to share my sweet Marmalade Circle quilt with you.

1 Layer Cake
3 3/4 yards background fabric  (I used Bella Snow # 9900-11)
3/4 yards tangerine (I used Marmalade #55050-13)
3/4 yards raspberry (I used Marmalade #55050-12)
1 yd accent fabric (I used Marmalade #55051-17)

3/4 yards binding  (I used the aqua stripe, Marmalade #55054-17)
5 3/4 yards backing (I used the grey floral, Marmalade #55050-16)

4 – 6 sandwich sized zip lock baggies

“Marmalade Circles” is created by using one block in a 3 x 4 grid and some really fat sashing.  Its construction is basically that of a nine-patch block.  There are NO circles, pieced, appliqued or otherwise.  This quilt is perfect for a beginner who is ready for a bigger quilt and wants to wow their friends without pulling out any hair, or teaching the kids new words.  (You know the ones I mean.)

Cutting Instructions:

Marmalade Block

Marmalade Block: (12 blocks, 41 pieces each, for a total of 492 pieces)  That sounds daunting.  I don’t know about you, but I hate cutting out a million pieces…so instead of having a bunch of little squares to cut out and keep track of we are going to cut some strips, create strip sets, and then cut pre-assembled pieces.

This block has 5 big pieces in it.  Those we will cut as is.

The rest will be in these four sets.

Initial cuttings:

  • From accent fabric: (12, 4″ squares; 2, 2″ 22″ strips; 4, 2″ x wof strips for a total of 18 pieces)
    • Cut 2 5″ x width of fabric (wof) strips
    • Cut 12, 5″ squares from strips.  Place squares in a baggie.
    • Cut the remainder of the second wof strip (aprox. 5″ x 22″) into two 2″ x  22″ strips 
    • Cut 4, 2″ x wof strips
  • From background fabric (48, 4″ squares; 10, 2″ x wof strips of 58 pieces)
    • Cut 6 5″ x wof strips
    • Cut 48, 5″ squares from strips  Place squares in a baggie with the 5″ accent squares.
    • Cut 11, 2″ x wof strips
  • From raspberry fabric (4, 2 “x wof strips)
    • Cut 4, 2″ x wof strips
  • From tangerine fabric (4, 2″x wof strips)
    • Cut 4, 2″ x wof strips

Strip Sets:

  • Unit 1a
    • Gather
      • Accent fabric – 2 wof strips and one 22″ strip
      • Background fabric – 2 1/2 wof strips 
      • Raspberry fabric – 2 1/2 wof strips
    • Sew strip sets, along long edge of fabrics, in that order.
    • Iron seam allowances toward accent and raspberry fabric
    • Cut sets into 48, 2″ x 5″ units.  (About every 4 cuts check to make sure your edge is still square by aligning the lines on your ruler with a seam.  Square strip sets as needed.)
    • Place in a baggie
  • Unit 1b
    • Gather
      • Background fabric – 3 wof strips
      • Raspberry fabric – 1 1/2 wof strips
    • Sew strip sets, along long edge of fabrics, background, raspberry, background
    • Iron seam allowances toward raspberry fabric
    • Cut sets into 24, 2″ x 5″ units.
    • Place in baggie with Unit 1 a pieces
  • Unit 2a
    • Gather
      • Accent fabric – 2 wof strips and one 22″ strip
      • Background fabric – 2 1/2 wof strips
      • Tangerine fabric – 2 1/2 wof strips
    • Sew strip sets, along long edge of fabrics, in that order.
    • Iron seam allowances toward accent and tangerine fabric
    • Cut sets into 48, 2″ x 5″ units
    • Place in a baggie.
  • Unit 2b
    • Gather
      • Background fabric – 3 wof strips
      • Tangerine fabric – 1 1/2 wof strips
    • Sew strip sets, along long edge of fabrics; background, tangerine, background
    • Iron seam allowances toward tangerine fabric
    • Cut sets into 24, 2″ x 5″ units.
    • Place in baggie with Unit 2 a pieces.

Sashing block: (17 blocks, 11 pieces each for a total of 187 pieces) Oh yes…we’re doing strip sets again.  Who wants lots of little pieces to get lost?!

Sashing Block (Fred)
As we did with the Marmalade blocks, the big pieces will be cut as is.

The rest will be cut from two sets.

Initial Cutting:
  • From background fabric (4, 3 5/8″ x wof strips)
    • Cut 4, 3 5/8″ x wof strips
  • From raspberry fabric  (3, 3 5/8″x wof strips)
    • Cut 3, 3 5/8″ x wof strips
  • From tangerine fabric (2, 3 5/8″x wof strips)
    • Cut 2, 3 5/8″ x wof strips
  • From layer cake (34, 5″ x 10″ rectangles)
    • Select 17 pieces from layer cake
    • Cut each piece into 2, 5″ x 10″ rectangle  (Be sure to confirm the 10″ side.  Pre-cut fabric can vary a little bit in their sizing.)
    • Fold gently in half and place in a baggie.

Strip Sets:

  • Unit 1
    • Gather
      • Raspberry fabric – 2 wof strips
      • Background fabric 2 wof strips
      • Tangerine fabric – 2 wof strips
    • Sew strip sets, along long edge, in that order
    • Iron seam allowances toward tangerine and raspberry fabric
    • Cut sets into 34, 2″ x 3 5/8″ units.
    • Pull 18 units out, gently fold, and place in a baggie marked Fred
    • Put remaining 16 units, gently folded in a different baggie…..marked Ginger.
  • Unit 2
    • Gather
      • Raspberry fabric – 1 wof strip
      • Background fabric – 2 wof strips
    • Sew strip sets, along long edge of fabrics; background, raspberry, background
    • Iron seam allowances toward raspberry fabric
    • Cut sets into 17, 2″ x 3 5/8″ units.
    • Pull 9 units out, gently fold, and place in the baggie marked Fred.
    • Put remaining 8 units, gently fold in the baggie marked Ginger.

Setting Squares: (6 blocks, 1 piece each for a total of 6 pieces)

  • From layer cake (6, 10″ x 10″ slices)
    • select 6 pieces from layer cake.  These remain whole…so pick your favorites!


  • From background fabric
    • cut 8, 6 1/2″ x wof strips


  • From binding fabric
    • cut 8, 2 1/2″ x wof strips

You have now finished more than half of the work.  Take a break.  Have a cookie.  Put your feet up and relax a minute or sixty before you start sewing things together.

Piecing Instructions:

Marmalade block:

  • Gather baggies with 5″ squares, 2″ x 5″ raspberry units, and 2″ x 5″ tangerine units.
  • Raspberry corners
    • Make 24 blocks by sewing together three raspberry units as depicted in the illustration.  Be careful….it is easy to get the corners in the wrong place.
    • Iron seam away from the center unit.
  • Tangerine corners
    • Make 24 blocks by sewing together three tangerine units as depicted in the illustration.  Again, be careful to get the corners in the right place.
    • Iron seams away from the center unit.
  • Block
    • Make 12, 14″ blocks (this measurement is the actual size of the block.)
    • Gather all corner blocks, and baggie with 5″ squares.
    • Sew 5″ background square to all 5″ accent squares.
    • Iron seam toward background square.
    • Sew 5″ background square to other side of accent squares, parallel to the seam you just sewed.
    • Iron seam toward background square.
    • Sew 5″ background square to all raspberry corner squares.  Be sure to orient the raspberry corner so that the diagonal line of raspberry squares goes from bottom to top toward the background.
    • Iron seam toward background square.
    • Sew tangerine corners to side of background square parallel to raspberry corners.  Be sure to orient the tangerine corner so that the diagonal line of tangerine squares goes from top to bottom away from the background square.
    • If you are assembling the block correctly you should have parallel rows of tangerine and raspberry in opposite corners.

Sashing block:  Don’t ask me how I know this….but you have to be very careful here….unless you like unpicking.  The placement of tangerine corners matters!

You have two baggies marked respectively Fred and Ginger.  They have essentially the same bits in them.  Fred has a few more…but they are the same units. 

  • Central section Fred
  • Gather baggie with 2″ x 3 5/8″ units labeled Fred.
    • Make 9, 5″ x 10″ blocks as depicted in the illustration above.
    • Be careful to get the corners in the right place. Red goes in the upper left and lower right.
    • Iron seams away from the center unit.

  • Central section Ginger
    • Gather baggie with 2″ x 3 5/8″ units labeled Ginger.
    • Make 8, 5″ x 10″ blocks as depicted in the illustration above.
    • Be careful to get the corners in the right place.  Tangerine goes in the upper left and lower right.
    • Iron seams away from the center unit.
Sashing Block (Ginger)

  • Block
    • Gather Fred and Ginger sections
    • Randomly sew a 5″ x 10″ layer cake piece to the long edge of each 5″ x 10″ pieced section.
    • Iron seams toward layer cake.
    • Randomly sew second 5″ x 10″ layer cake piece to remaining long edge of pieced section.
    • Iron seams toward the layer cake.
Quilt Center:
  • Gather 12 Marmalade Blocks (Marmalade), 9 Fred Blocks (Fred), 8 Ginger Blocks (Ginger), and 6 10″ x 10″ layer cake (L.C.) slices.
Design Wall
It is design wall time.  A design wall is a space dedicated to the display of quilt blocks in order that you can play around with their arrangement.  If you google “design wall quilt” I am sure you could find a bazillion entries on how to make one….okay, maybe not a bazillion…but there will be a bunch.  If you don’t have the space, time, or inclination to build one there are many options.
For many years my design wall served the co-function known as floor.  Then I got a bazillion pets and kids and it didn’t work very well anymore.
Next option – a large bed.  Lay your blocks out on top of your bed.  You do have to make the bed first…but leave the pillows on the floor.  You need the space.  My bed is on the first floor…my sewing stuff on the second.  By the time I got my blocks arranged and transported they weren’t in the same arrangement any more.  If this is your situation – take a quick snap of the arrangement with your cell phone.  Refer to the photo when you go to put your blocks together.
My favorite alternative is to pin my blocks to a shower curtain or window dressing.  (I don’t recommend trying to stick your blocks to the louvered blinds….it gets a little messy.)
However you do it, find a place to lay your blocks out and play with their arrangement.  Arrange them in a 5 x 7 grid, alternating Marmalade and Sashing blocks…..hmmmm….let me show you….
  • Arrange blocks as illustrated in the diagram above.
    • Note
      • All Fred blocks are turned 90 degrees from the Ginger blocks
      • All Marmalade blocks have a raspberry corner oriented to the upper left.
      • All raspberry pieces connect on a diagonal with all raspberry pieces.  They run from lower left to upper right across the quilt.
      • All tangerine pieces connect on a diagonal with all tangerine pieces (except in the center of the Sashing blocks) and run from upper left to lower right across the quilt.
      •  All four corners of the center have Marmalade blocks in them.
  • When you are happy with it, take a picture with your phone to use as reference.
  • Sew your blocks together one row at a time.
    • If you have ironed the pieces as I suggested along the way, the seams of the Marmalade blocks and those of the Sashing blocks should snuggle together nicely.
    • Iron seam allowances toward Sashing blocks.
  • Sew the rows together to make your top.
    • When piecing long rows I find it helpful to keep my needle in the down position.  This helps to hold the weight of the quilt and keep it from sliding off of the table.
    • If you have ironed the pieces as I suggested along the way, the seams of the Marmalade blocks and those of the Sashing blocks should snuggle together nicely.


  • At this point the top measures 60″ x 84″.
  • Gather the 8, 6 1/2″x wof  strips of background fabric that you cut earlier.
  • Sew 2 sets of 2 strips together along the 6 1/2″ edge creating 2, 6 1/2″ x 80-ish” pieces.
  • Sew these to the short sides of your quilt center.
  • Iron seam allowances toward the border.
  • Trim excess squarely with quilt.  To do this align the inch markings on your ruler with the seam and the straight edge with the edge of the top.  The ruler should be resting on the quilt top with the body of the quilt to one side and the extra border sticking out to the other.  Trim the extra off.
  • Sew 2 sets of 3 strips (2, 6 1/2″ x wof and 1 overage from border already attached) together along the 6 1/2″ edge creating 2, 6 1/2″ x 100-ish” pieces.
  • Sew these to the long edges of the quilt center.
  • Iron seam allowances toward the border.

Layer and quilt as desired.

Bonus information:  I chose to give my quilt rounded corners.  I think it complements the faux-curves in the piecing.  If you want to do this too you need to make bias binding and mark the curve on your quilt.

Bias binding isn’t hard to make…the fabric gives more along the bias and will allow you to maneuver curves more easily than straight edge binding does.
  • Cut your strips at a 45 degree angle to the selvedge.
  • Lay your fabric out flat!  Folding it will result in strips shaped like “V”s.  Cool, but not much good for binding.
  • Look at your ruler…a 45 degree angle is marked on just about every ruler I’ve ever seen…look for the marking.  Align the marking on your ruler with the selvedge of your fabric.  The body of the ruler needs to be on top of the fabric.
  • Cut your strips the width you like…I used 2 1/2″ or 2 1/4″ if I am short on fabric.
  • Sew the strips together skinny end for skinny end…just like always.
  • Iron wrong sides together along  the length of your binding.
  • Ta-done!  You now have bias binding.
To mark the rounded corners,
  • Find a round object around your home that fits the corner the way you want it to.  I used the top of my thread box.
  • Trace the shape onto the top of your quilted project before you attach the binding.
  • Trim away the excess fabric (the square corner).
  • Attach binding to quilt as normal.
  • You don’t need to do anything special with the corners, just guide your binding tape around the curve and keep going.

1 Twin sized bed quilt (71.5″ x 94.5″).  The perfect place to dream after dancing the night away.

Before you pass out from dancing all night, please take a picture of your quilt and add it to the Tops to Treasures group on Flickr.

Cindy Sharp