Pezzy Lattice Quilt


Hi Everyone!  I’m Amanda Castor from Material Girl Quilts and I am absolutely thrilled to share my first Moda Bake Shop project with you today.
I made this Pezzy Lattice Quilt for a very special teenage boy and am pleased with the way it turned out.  I think the design works great with the Pezzy Prints, but can imagine it used with so many other Moda fabric lines. 
1 – Layer cake (I used Pezzy Print by American Jane)
*3 yds for background (if less than 42″ wide you will need 3.5 yds) – (I used Moda Bella Silver)
*4 yds for backing – (I used Deck Chairs Stripe in Summer from the Salt Air line)
*½ yd binding
At least 66″ x 78″ batting
6 ½” square grid ruler
*For this quilt I chose to use only 30 of the layer cake squares (I knew he wouldn’t want pink in his quilt and I didn’t use brown by my choice).  If you would like to use more squares, you will need to adjust the amount of background, backing and binding fabric as necessary.  Using all 42 squares would give you a quilt with 12 blocks across and 14 rows total and the final size would be approx. 72″ x 84″. 
All seams are ¼”
1)   Select 30 layer cake squares and cut into four 2 ½” x 10″ strips each.  This will result in 120 strips.  I chose 3 squares of each color selected.

2)  Cut 120 6″ squares from the background fabric.

3)  Cut along one diagonal of each 6″ background square creating two backing triangles.

4)  Each block will consist of one 2 ½” x 10″ strip and two background triangles.

5)  Place one of the triangles RST (right-sides together) roughly centered onto the strip and stitch (to make this go quickly, I chain pieced the first triangle onto each strip before adding the second triangle)

6)  Add the second triangle to the opposite side of the strip and chain piece as before.
7)  Set your seams and press towards the backing fabric.
8)  Place your 6 ½” square grid ruler on top of the blocks and square up, trimming away all excess fabric, leaving you with a 6 1/2″ block.  **You should take your time with this step, the squaring up is key to having matching points when you piece the blocks together!! 
9)  Now lay out your blocks to determine your desired look.  You can choose to have the corners start in an X or diamonds like mine.  I chose to create “columns” of each color instead of a random pattern. 
10)  Once you have chosen your final layout design, sew each of your blocks together row by row until it is done.  The key to achieving perfect points is also in the pinning.  Match each seam as shown below before sewing each block together.
11)  Layer with backing and batting and quilt as desired.  I created a smaller “lattice” design on mine.

One 60″ x 72″ Pezzy Lattice quilt perfect for snuggling under.


Amanda Castor
{Material Girl Quilts}

Charming Plaid Quilt

Charming Plaid




Charming Plaid


– 3 charms packs solid (I used 9900 11)
– 1 charm pack prints (I used Salt Air by Cosmo Cricket)
– 1/2 yd for binding
– 2 yards for backing
– 44″ x 60″ batting



1) Sort your charm pack by color. If you do not have 5 distinct colors, you will need to repeat one or two of the colors (I suggest making A and B the same).


For this quilt, you will need:
– 4 charms color A
– 5 charms color B
– 8 charms color C
– 9 charms color D
– 9 charms color E
– 90 charms background

2) You will need to trim some charm squares down to 2.75″ x 5″.
– color C
– color E
– 17 of the solid
* Pay attention to the direction of the prints. C pieces are vertical, E pieces are horizontal.*

3) Take one 2.75″ x 5″ print and one 2.75″ x 5″ solid. Align them with right sides together and sew along one side with a 1/4″ seam allowance. Press seam open. Repeat for the remaining 2.75″ pieces.

Charming Plaid

4) Lay out your quilt according to the diagram. 


5) Sew the rows together. I prefer to sew the pieces from each row into pairs, then sew the pairs together until all 9 blocks are sewn. Press the seams in alternating directions.

6) Sew the rows together. Again, I sew them into pairs, then sew the pair together until all 12 rows are pieced. Press seams open.

7) Trim off the selvages from your 2 yards and press out the center crease. 

8) Baste, quilt, bind. 
* I spray basted, quilted on the diagonal following the design, and zig zag bound the quilt. Don’t forget to label it too! I designed my labels in Illustrator and had them printed with Spoonflower. *


One 41″ x 54″ quilt

Charming Plaid Charming Plaid
Charming Plaid

Charming Plaid

Ali Winston
{asquaredw.com}

Peaks and Valleys



Hello…It’s Jo from Jo’s Country Junction.  I was doodling during a long meeting one evening and came up with this quilt design, Peaks and Valleys. Once I got the quilt together then realized I wanted something a little more creative than my typical stippling for the quilting.  Dawn, The Pajama Quilter, came to the rescue.  She sent a video with a wealth of quilting ideas.  I topped the quilt off with a strip border from the Salt Air Fabric line and wa-la…a finished quilt. The colors and prints are very kid-friendly, which makes it a perfect picnic or snuggle quilt for the whole family.

To cut out this quilt you will need a Tri Recs Ruler. Stop over to my blog, Jo’s Country Junction, to sign up for a chance to win.


You will need a tri-recs ruler or a similar ruler that allows you to cut a triangle in a square block.
Fat Quarter Bundle of Salt Air
5 yards Moda Marble
3/4 yard stripe for binding
6.5 yards for backing


Before cutting I want to show you what the block looks like that we will be making.

We will be constructing “triangle in a square units” and coupling them with squares to create the block.  Each block consists of:
4~ cream squares
4~colored squares

4~triangle in a square blocks with a colored center

4~triangle in a square blocks with a cream center

56 of these blocks are joined together to create the zig zag Peaks and Valleys design.

Working with this specialty ruler can be a bit tricky but very do-able.
Please note
:  There is a left and a right side to the small right angled triangles that are sewn to the center triangle.

To cut these right and left hand side pieces it is important to keep the fabrics laying right sides together as you cut the triangles.  This will insure that you will get a right and a left side piece each time you cut.  If you are hesitant to use the ruler, there are good videos out that show you how. Here’s one

Let’s start cutting:
From the cream background fabric:
Cut 48~ 3.5″ strips.
Subcut:  232~ 3 1/2″ squares
232 center triangles
232 right handed triangles
232 left handed triangles

Open the fat quarter pack and press the fat quarters. (I did not use the panel that looks like labels.)
Cut four 3 1/2″ strips that are 18″ long from 29 of the fat quarters.
From each set of strips:
Cut 8~ 3 1/2″ squares.
Cut 8~ center triangles
Cut 8~ right handed triangles
Cut 8~left handed triangles

Now that everything is cut, let’s start sewing.  I sorted my left and right handed colored triangles into piles.

All seams are sewn at 1/4″.

Take the cream triangles and add the left hand side piece like this.

Press the seam to the printed fabric to create this.

Add the right hand triangle next.

Press to the printed piece to create this.

Repeat to create 232 units.  Repeat the process making units with a printed center and cream outer triangles creating 232 units.

Next add a square to each triangle unit as shown.  Note that the center of the triangle is the color of square that is added.  Make 232 units of each type.  Press all seams to the point of the triangle.

Sew the units together in a line as shown.  Press all seams to the point of the triangle.

Make 232 units.

The units now need to be sewn together to make blocks.  To do that, arrange four of the strips together as shown.

Match the seams and sew.  Press.  Repeat to make 56 blocks.  You will have some units left over.  Save these to piece the backing.

Sew 8 blocks together in rows.  Make 7 rows.  Sew the strips together to create the quilt top.

To piece the backing sew the remaining units together into one long strip.  Cut the backing in half.  Sew a strip of backing to each side of the pieced unit.  Press.

Sandwich top, batting and back.

Quilt as desired. 

I quilted mine using the Pajama Quilter’s flower and ribbons design for quilting in the cream area.   I put evergreen type Christmas trees in the colored zig zags.  It’s free hand quilting.  It’s the most complicated design I’ve done but I love it.

Cut 9- 2 1/2″ binding strips.  Bind.

84″ x 96″ Quilt

Make sure to stop by at my blog, Jo’s Country Junction, to sign up to win one of the tri-recs rulers.

Jo Kramer
{joscountryjunction.com}

Salt Water Taffy Boy and Girl Quilts



Hello Everyone! It’s Crystal Hendrix from Hendrixville again! Being from Utah and home of the Great Salt Lake, what do we have a lot of? Salt Water Taffy! So when I saw that there was a line that was called, Salt Air and was full of bright colors, what else could I think of, Salt Water Taffy!

I’m pleased to bring you not just one, but TWO twin-size quilts! Amazing what you can get from a single jelly roll! Enjoy!

*If you want to make either 2 boy quilts or 2 girl quilts, change the color of your sashing fabric. Make sure you have a large variety of all the colors (from the jelly roll and charm pack) in each quilt if you do this. *


Blocks: 
1 Jelly Roll – Salt Air by Cosmo Cricket
1 Jelly Roll – Bella White
1 Charm Pack – Salt Air by Cosmo Cricket

Sashing:
2 1/8 yard 37025 21 (dark blue/ocean) – Boy
2 1/8 yard 37025 12 (red/coral) – Girl

Binding:
5/8 yard 37027 15c (multi-color/summer) – Boy
5/8 yard 37027 15c (multi-color/summer) – Girl

Backing:
4 1/8 yard 37022 16 (blue) – Boy
4 1/8 yard 37021 11 (pink) – Girl 

To start out, take your Salt Air Jelly Roll and separate them into 2 different piles, one for the boy quilt and one for the girl quilt. Each pile will have 20 pieces each.

Then take your charm pack and separate them into 2 piles as well, one for the girl quilt and one for the boy quilt. Each pile will have 21 pieces.

Now from one strip of each jelly roll (Salt Air and Bella White) you will cut it into the following :
4 – 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″    2 – 2 1/2″ x 4 1/2″   2 – 2 1/2″ x 8 1/2″

You will be using EVERY strip of both jelly rolls. Just make sure that you keep your piles for the boy and girl quilts separate, this will help reduce confusion as you put together your blocks.

Now with your charm pack piles, trim each block down to 4 1/2″ x 4 1/2″. You will have 2 extra charm pieces left.

Now we are going to assemble our blocks! You will be using a 1/4″ seam allowance throughout.

#1 – Lay out your pieces from each strip in the following pattern.

#2 – Sew each column (5 different ones) together. * You can sew together your blocks together in a different way, but I was able to organize and keep track of my blocks better doing it this way, just do what makes you feel more comfortable*

# 3 – Sew together your columns. You will have two sets of 2 and one column left out.

# 4 – Sew the extra column to one set of your columns.


# 5 – Sew together the rest of your columns and press flat. 
You will have a total of 20 blocks for each quilt.
Now we can begin to start assembling your quilts. Make sure that you keep your different blocks separate. 
Take your Sashing fabric and cut 15 – 3 1/2″ x 12 1/2″ pieces. Your layout will be 4 x 5, so you will be using 3 strips per row.

Once you have your rows put together, cut 4 – 3 1/2″ x 57 1/2″ from your sashing fabric (You may need to cut 8 strips and sew together the strips.) Sew your long strips to your rows now.

Now for the final step, cut from your sashing fabric, 2 – 5″ x 57 1/2″ and 2 5″ x 82″ and sew them to your quilt top. (Once again you may need to cut 8 strips and sew together 2 to make your desired length.)

Now you have your finished quilt top! Repeat for the girls quilt (or boy quilt) and you have two quilt tops ready to be basted, quilted and bound.

Baste, quilt and bind each quilt as you desire.

YIELD: 
Once finished you will have beautiful quilts for a boy and a girl! Each one is approximately 67″x82″.

I would love to see any quilts that you have made using this tutorial or any of my previous ones. Please feel free to email me a picture at nmommy02(at)gmail(dot)com

Crystal Hendrix
{hendrixville.blogspot.com}

Take It All Tote



Hi everyone!!  It’s Melissa from Happy Quilting and I am so excited to get to share another fun-filled tutorial with all of you MBS Fans 🙂  Some of you may know that I have a large family (7 of us).  Every time we go swimming, to the beach, on a picnic, or whatever . . .  I end up taking so many tote bags to carry all of our stuff.  With summer coming up and lots of outings planned, I decided it was time to make my own custom tote bag that will “Take It All” (and not to mention look pretty awesome!!!).  What fun to get to share it all with you!!!

Leah from Burgundy Buttons with her mad skills has made up an adorable “Take It All Tote” Kit so you can have yours all done in time for some summer outings!!  Hurry, supplies are limited 🙂

If you do whip up your own Take It All Tote for your family I would love it if you added it to my Inspired by Happy Quilting Flickr Group or emailed me a picture at happyquiltingmelissa (at) gmail (dot) com.  I so love to see your work!!!!   And, if you have any questions please don’t hesitate to send me an email.  I would be happy to help in any way I can 🙂

I Used Salt Air by Cosmo Cricket for my tote because I just loved the beach themed fabrics and they fit perfect for all our summer outings!!!  You will need:

1 Salt Air Jelly Roll –  You will use 22 strips
1 Yard for the handles, binding, and applique – I used 37027 12
3/4 Yard for the lining – I used 37023 12
1/3 Yard for the pockets – I used 37025 14

Additionally – You will need some Non-Fabric Supplies.  They include :

2 Yards of Interfacing – I used 809 Decor Bond (It is iron-able and a good weight)
1 Key Ring Hook
1 12″ Zipper

STEP 1 – CUTTING

So . . . Let’s get started with cutting up our yardage so it is ready when we need it 🙂  First well cut the 1 yard piece.  Begin by cutting the selvage from your yardage.  Then cut (2) 2 1/2″ x WOF strips for the binding, (4) 6″ x WOF strips for the handles, and set the remaining piece aside to be used for the applique.

Onto the 1/3 yard piece.  From this piece cut (1) 12″ x 18″ rectangle that is cut on the fold.  So you will be cutting 9″ up from the folded line.  Then cut (2) 11″ x 12″ rectangles.  This will leave you with the selvage that you can scrap.

And lastly, take your 2/3 yard piece and cut it into a 26″ x WOF fabric piece.  This should just be squaring it up and cutting an inch off the back.  Go ahead and cut off the selvage at 21″ when your fabric is folded.

And that is all the cutting.  Set these cut pieces aside for later.

STEP 2 – PIECING THE CHEVRON OUTER BAG

To start . . . Grab 5 strips from your jelly roll.  Strip piece the entire strips together into a set of 5 but staggering the strips by appx. 2″ to form upward steps.  Clip your threads and press.

Lay your strip set out onto your mat with the bottom strip aligned with a horizontal strip on your mat.  Place  a long  6″ wide ruler so that the 45 degree mark is aligned with the bottom of your first strip and the edge of the ruler is as close to the edge of your “steps without including selvage.  Cut along either side of the ruler.

Now, go back and align the 45 degree mark again with the bottom of the piece you just cut.  Align the 3″ line of your ruler with the cut line of the fabric.  Sub-cut your pieced unit into 2 units.

Now line up your 45 degree mark with the bottom of your pieced strips and the 3″ line of your ruler with the cut edge of your fabric.  Cut.  Continue to cut this way across the striped piece of fabric until you have sub-cut 9 total pieces.   There will be a little scrap at the end.

Now, grab an additional 5 jelly roll strips and repeat this process to make a total of 18 sets of 5 in 2 different print patterns.

And now we will repeat the process but make downward steps instead of upward steps.  So grab 5 additional jelly roll strips and strip piece the entire strips together into a set of 5 but this time staggering the strips by appx. 2″ to form downward steps.  Clip your threads and press.

Once again, lay your strip set out onto your mat with the bottom strip aligned with a horizontal strip on your mat.  Place  a long  6″ wide ruler so that the opposite 45 degree mark is aligned with the bottom of your first strip and the edge of the ruler is as close to the edge of your “steps without including selvage.  Cut along either side of the ruler.

And again, go ahead and using your 45 degree mark aligned with the bottom of your pieced strips and the 3″ line of your ruler with the cut edge of your fabric, Sub-cut your first piece and then continue to cut 3″ pieces across the striped piece of fabric until you have sub-cut 9 total pieces.   Put the scrap in your scrap bin.

Repeat the downward step process with an additional 5 jelly roll strips.  You will now have 18 sets of 5 of Upward angled pieces and 18 sets of 5 of downward angle pieces.  Perfect for making 9 Chevron rows.

So, Lets get to making the rows.  Taking 2 upward angle rows (one from each set) make one long row.  You can mix and match the patterns as much as you like to get some variance.  Lay the second piece onto the first piece with right sides together and the pieces at a 90 degree angle.  The corners will overlap 1/4″.  Sew a 1/4 seam along the edge.  Press.  Repeat to make 9 Upward Angled long rows and 9 Downward Angled Long Rows.

Now that you have your long rows you can make your chevron points.  Take 1 Upward angle row and place it on top of a Downward angle row with right sides together.  To get really nice points take care to nest your seams and pin at each seam intersection. Go ahead and stretch a little or ease fabric in to get your points lined nice and perfect.

Stitch a 1/4″ seam along your pinned edge removing pins as you go.  (Where they are angled they will really want to throw your 1/4″ off.) Press your seam and admire your beautiful chevron points!!   Repeat to make 9 sets total.

Stitch your 9 sets together.  Lay out the rows as follows making all the points on on side and the arrow tails on the other.  Stitch the rows together the same way you stitched the sets together taking care to line up and pin each seam.  When all 9 rows are sewn together it should look like this.

Now fold the entire pieced work in half and lay it on your cutting mat aligning the folded edge with the 0 horizontal line of your mat.  Cut along each edge so that you have a 26″ wide piece remaining.  Discard cut pieces.

Now grab your interfacing and cut a piece the same size (26″ x 45″) as your pieced fabric.  Adhere the interfacing to the wrong side of your pieced fabric.

Optional – If you would like, you can do a little free motion stitching on the outside of your bag if you like.  It adds a fun little detail and helps to give the piecing a bit more strength 🙂  I did a fun free motion straight line.  I liked how the free motion allowed it to look a bit wavy, matching the theme of the bag 🙂

STEP 3 – ADDING THE FRONT POCKET

Now you are ready to add some of the detail to the outside of the bag.  First lets add the front pocket.  So grab your folded 12″ x 18″ rectangle and your remaining applique yardage.  Applique your Family Name . .  or whatever you would like for that matter, on to the top half of the pocket taking care to leave at least 1/4″ from each edge and staying above the folded line.  If you have never appliqued or need help, you can see my video tutorials on Applique here that will walk you through the process step by step.

Now, go ahead and grab your 2 1/2″ x wof strips and turn the 2 strips into a continuous folded binding strip. (Moda has a great tutorial here on how to do that if you are not sure 🙂  Cut a 12″ piece of binding.  Fold your pocket back in half.  Machine bind the top of the pocket with the 12″ strip.  I went back and added a decorative straight stitch along the top of the binding as well so it would match the handles.

Now, to align the pocket onto the bag.  Place the pocket 10″ up from the folded line of the bag and 7″ in on either side.  Stab 2 pins in on either  to mark the place.

Now unfold the chevron piece and pin the bag in place through 1 layer, we don’t want to be sewing any bags shut 🙂  Stitch along the edge of the pocket starting at the top left hand corner and going around the pocket to the top right hand corner. Remember to back-tack at the start and finish.   Do not stitch across the top.   And don’t worry about those raw edges hanging out, we will cover those with the handles 🙂

STEP 4 – ADDING HANDLES

So, let’s get making the handles.  These are made double thickness so as to give them lots of strength.  So. Start by taking your 4 6″ strips and sewing them into 1 long strip.  You don’t need to sew these on an angle like you do your binding strip, just 1/4″ seams along the edges is fine 🙂  Then go ahead and press the entire strip in half.  Open the pressed strip up.  You will have a crease down the center.  Now Fold the top half of the strip over and press down to the crease across the entire strip.  Then similarly fold the bottom half over and press up to the crease across the entire strip.

Lastly, go ahead and fold the entire strip in half and press.  Now your super strong handles are ready to be attached!!!

Lay your pieced chevrons out on a flat surface.  Start with the edge of your handle at the center of the pieced chevrons and the open side facing inwards.  Place the handles about 6 3/4″ in from the edge so that the edge of the  handle will overlap the raw edge of the pocket.  Go ahead and play with the size of the handles that you would like.  Trim any excess handle at the center leaving a 1/2″ overlap.  Set the excess aside to use a little later.

Now sew the 2 ends of the handles together by opening the center seam and placing right sides together.  Sew a 1/4″ seam along the raw edge.  Fold the handle once again and press.

Now, go ahead and pin your continuous handle in place where you had lined it up before.  You are now ready to stitch your handles down. On the first handle start stitching  1/2″ in from the edge of the top of the bag.  Sew in 1/8″ from the edge of the opened side of the handle.  (Using a walking foot really helps from keeping this from wanting to shift)  Stitch the 1/8″ line down the entire handle ending 1/2″ from the bottom of the bag and back-tacking.  Now stitch on the other side of the handle (unopened end) in the same fashion leaving the 1/2″ at the top and bottom.  Then repeat with the handle on the other side.

Now just to finish up those handles.  Start by folding the pieced chevrons under so that they are out of the way.  Place the needle right next to where you stopped sewing before on the open side of the handle.  Stitch a few stitches and then back-tack, being careful to only sew the handle and not the pieced chevrons.  Continue stitching an 1/8″ seam along the edge of the handle until you get back to the pieced chevrons.  Once again, fold the pieced chevrons under and out of the way and stitch right up to the previous stitches.  Back tack.  Now you can do the same on the folded side of the handle.  Done, now just repeat both steps on the other side of the bag 🙂

STEP 5 – MAKING THE BASE AKA GUSSETS

And now with your handles all added, you are ready to add a base to your bag.  We do this by adding gussets, at least I think that is what they are called. Lay your pieced chevrons with right sides together aligning the top and bottom and the sides.  Pin along the sides of the pieced chevrons.   Cut a 4″ square out of the bottom of each side.  The easiest way is to just lay your square ruler on the corner, mark the 4″, and then cut it out with your scissors.  Now go ahead and stitch a 3/8″ seam along the 2 pinned sides back-tacking at the beginning and end of the seams.

Now for the gusset.  This is a lot easier then it sounds.  Open the corner and then pinch down so that you line up the seam you just made with the fold at the bottom of the bag.  It will make a nice straight line like this.  Pin along the  raw edges.  Now just stitch a 3/8″ seam along the raw edge.  Repeat for the opposite corner.

Now turn it right side out, push the corners out with your hands,  and you have the outer part of your bag all done!!!  Yippee Skippee!!!

STEP 6 – MAKING THE LINING

Onto the lining.  The lining needs to be just a big longer than the 42″ we cut earlier.  So grab 2 more jelly roll strips and from the first one cut (2) 2 1/2″ x 21″ strips and from the second one cut  (4) 2 1/2″ x 3″ strips.  Piece the 3″ squares onto either side of the long strips to make 2 strips as follows.

Attach the long strips onto each side of the top of the lining with a 1/4″ seam.  Then go ahead and cut a piece of interfacing the same size as the lining and adhere it to the wrong side of the lining.  (Somehow, I had a major forgetful moment and totally forgot to add the lining to my interfacing,  Le Sigh).

Now, go ahead and grab your zipper and your 2 remaining 11″ x 12″ rectangles to make a hidden zipper pocket in your lining.

If you have made a hidden zipper pocket before go ahead and add it into your lining placing it 2″ down from your added jelly roll strip and centering it from side to side.  If you have never made a hidden zipper pocket you can see my  tutorial for Adding a Hidden Zipper Pocket here 🙂

Now with your zipper pocket added you are ready to add the gussets into your lining.  Do this the same way you did your outer tote.  Fold the lining with right sides together and pin along the sides of the lining.  Cut a 4″ square out of the bottom corners and then stitch along each of the sides.

Once again, Open, Pinch, Match your Seams, and Stitch a 3/8″ seam along the both corners. Open it up and your lining is done!!!

STEP 7 – FINISHING THE TOTE

This is where it gets really fun because it actually looks like a tote bag!!!  Go ahead and place your lining inside your outer tote bag piece.  Align the tops of each piece and pin along the edge.  It is easiest to align the side seams first and then the centers.  Then work out.  (If your interfacing does not want to align with the edge of your tote you can trim as needed 🙂

No go ahead and pin your handles back out of the way so you won’t stitch over them.  With the handles out of the way stitch a large basting stitch along the raw edge about 1/8″ in.  This just holds everything together nice to bind it 🙂

Now, the easiest, and for me, most important part.  I hate losing my keys in the bottom of my bag.  So . . .  My bag totally needs a key holder.  So grab that little bit of handle excess you set aside.  Stitch 1/8″ seam along either side to close the piece up.  Now wrap it through the metal loop of the key holder and then stitch the end close.  Don’t worry about that raw edge, it will get put in the binding 🙂

Onto the binding.  You are going to bind the bag the same way you would machine bind a quilt.  So start by attaching the raw edge of the binding to the raw edge of the bag with a 1/4″ seam. Remember to leave about 6″ unattached at the start.   Add your key holder in wherever you would like it (I did it near the side seam) by inserting it under the binding and then stitching over it as well.  And watch out for those handles wanting to creep in your way.  Be sure not to sew over them 😉

Continue stitching until you get to the end.  Overlap your binding pieces 2 1/2″, cut, and then sew at a 90 degree angle  and then clip and finish sewing down the inside of the binding.  (Once again, if this is new to you, you can see this tutorial).

Now, simply fold your binding over and stitch along the edge to secure it down.  (Aka stitch in the ditch).  You want to try and align your binding with the edge of the pinned down handle so that when it is open it matches up.  Stitch the binding down all the way around the top of the bag. (if you like, you can add a second decorative stitch along the top of the binding so that it matches your handles and pocket 🙂

Then just unpin your handles and you are done!!!  Yippee Skippee!!!

Now you have one fabulous Summery Tote measuring 25″ wide, 17″ high, and 8″ deep!!!  Now that is a bag that you can load up with everything and then some!!!

Seriously, That is a lot of stuff!!

And yes, your bag will be the most fantastic bag on the beach.  So you might just want to stay all day!!!

Melissa Corry
{happyquiltingmelissa.blogspot.com}

Salt Air Crossings Quilt


Hi again, it’s Andrea from Millions of Thoughts.   I’m happy to share this quilt tutorial with you, using Cosmo Cricket’s Salt Air.   I love the coastal feel of the fabrics paired up with the light blue solid.  The debate  – West Coast or East Coast?  

If you have any questions, please feel free to email me via my blog!   

1 jelly roll – Cosmo Cricket Salt Air
2 1/2 yards  – Bella Solid Ruby Ice – 9900-169
1/2 yard – Cosmo Cricket Salt Air – Ocean Stripe – 37027-23
4 1/2 yards – Cosmo Cricket Salt Air  – Seafoam – 37023-21
Batting for a 60″ x 70″ quilt top

This quilt is comprised of two blocks:  

   
               
             Block A  – 10.5″ square                           Block B – 10.5″ square
Separate the jelly roll into similar colours.

For Block A you need:
11  blue/green prints
7 red prints
3 yellow prints
ruby ice solid
You will make 21 Block A. 

For Block B you need:
5 blue/green print strips
4 red print strips
2 yellow print strips
ruby ice solid
You will make 21 Block B. 

In the jelly roll, there are a few strips that have a combination of colours, as well as a few pastels.  Use these for the requirements above.  e.g. I used a red/blue/yellow floral print for the ‘red’ block.  I used a red/blue/yellow stripe for the ‘yellow’ block. 

Cutting:
Light Bella Solid fabric yardage – cut  30 –  2.5″ width of fabric strips
Block A
For each PRINT strip (21 strips), cut:
2  –  2.5″ x 10.5″
1  –  2.5″ x 6.5″
3  –  2.5″ x 5″ 
*Block A uses one entire printed jelly roll strip, with about 2″ left over.  Be mindful of cutting!
SOLID strips cut:
63  – 2.5″ x 5″ 
This will make 21 of block A.  
Block B  
For each PRINT strip (11 strips), cut:
4  –  2.5″ x 6.5″ 
2  – 2.5″ x 5″
Block B uses 1/2 jelly roll strip for each block
SOLID strips cut:
42  – 2.5″ x 10.5″
21 –  2.5″ x 6.5′
42 –  2.5″ x 5″
This will make 21 of block B.
Block A Piecing Instructions:
*All piecing instructions assume 1/4″ seams
1. Sew 2.5″ x 5″ solids to 2.5″ x 5″  print:
2.  Press seams towards print:
3.  Cut horizontally to make two 2.5″ x 6.5″  pieced strips:
4. Sew  2.5″x 6.5″ pieced strips to matching 2.5″ x 6.5″ print strip:
5. Press toward print.  Set aside for step 9.



6. Sew two 2.5″ x 5″ matching prints to one 2.5″ x 5″ solid:



7. Press seams to prints:

8. Cut horizontally to make two 2.5 x 6.5″ pieced strips: 
9.  Sew pieced strips to top and bottom of ‘plus sign’.  Nestle and match seams:
10. Press seams to outside:
11. Sew 10.5″ matching print strips to sides of block.

12. Press seams to OUTSIDE of block.


Block B Piecing Instructions:
*All piecing instructions assume 1/4″ seams
1. Sew 2.5″ x 6.5″ matching prints to 2.5″ x 6.5″ solid:

2. Press seams towards the prints.   Set aside for step 6.

3. Sew  2.5″ x 5″ solids to a  2.5″ x 5″ print:
4. Press seams towards the print:

5.  Cut horizontally to make two 2.5″ x 6.5″ pieced strips:

6. Attach 2.5″ matching pieced strips as shown, making sure to nestle and match seams:

7. Press seams to outside:

8. Attach 10.5″ solid strips to sides of blocks as shown:
9. Press seams towards INSIDE of block:



Arrange both sets of blocks in a palette that is pleasing to you, in a 6 x 7 layout.  You can do a random colour arrangement, but I chose to arrange mine in an organized colour pattern, with alternating blocks. 
Assemble blocks together, row by row, taking care to match seams. Press towards block A.

Assemble quilt sandwich, quilt and bind using your preferred method:

I chose to do horizontal and vertical straight line quilting

Bind the quilt using the Salt Air stripe fabric: 

One quilt measuring 60″ x 70″  
This quilt washes and softens up beautifully! 

Andrea Harris
{millionsofthoughtstrappedinmyhead.blogspot.com}

Salt Air Diamonds Quilt


Hi, Kristy back again with another quilt. When will my brain stop coming up with quilt designs  that refuse to let go? Hopefully not for a long time!
This design was inspired by my imperfect memory of the ceiling thatching on the roof of a holiday villa in Bali I was lucky enough to enjoy with three of my best friends for our combined 30th birthdays last year. When I saw the Salt Air fabric I knew the colours would fit perfectly with such a beachy memory. To make it even better there are no ‘Y’ seams because it is all constructed from 60-degree triangles!
1 jelly roll Salt Air by Cosmo Cricket
3 yards solid 9900 42 for sashing, setting triangles and binding
4 yards 37021 11 for backing
60-degree ruler
Constructing the Triangles
1.      Sort your strips into groups of four of similar colours. If using the Salt Air collection, the colours do not divide evenly but sets of similar colours can be achieved (so there is not one strip in a set that stands out)

2.      Sew the strips together so you have 10 sets each made up of four strips. This can get a little tiring so I did one or two sets at a time and cut the triangles (see the next step) before moving on to the set strip set.
Tip: When sewing pick one end to start with i.e. – the printed selvedge or other end and match these to ensure only one uneven end. I usually match the unprinted end. This will ensure you have a strip long enough to cut the required triangles.


3.      Press the seams to the side (or open depending on your preference – I just always do mine to the side). I found this worked better when I pressed each seam after sewing rather than when the set was together – it is easier to get the seam flat and this will be important for a good finish later.
 
4.      When you have a completed and pressed strip, set cut your 60 degree triangles. At this stage your strip set will be 9” wide. My ruler is 8.5” high so I will need to cut a bit off the blunt top when cutting the triangles. Alternate the orientation of the ruler for each triangle {positioning the wide base flush with the top or bottom of the strip set}. You should get 8 from each strip set.
Note: My 60-degree ruler has only one blunt tip as it was made for a particular pattern. Others I have seen on the market are exactly the same but have 3 blunt tips. Construction will be the same no matter what brand of ruler you use, cut off the extra dog ears at this stage or not; do whatever suits you.


5.      Set aside your triangle sets, separated into groups according to the strip set they were cut from.

     Cutting and assembling the sashing
1.     From the solid, cut 25 strips 1” wide and cross cut into 10.5” strips (units will be 1”x10.5”)
I    I cut my strips 5″x WOF and then cut the 1″ strip from the 5″ units. I found this a better way to ensure an accurate cut along the grain. 

2.      Take one set of triangles. Half your triangles should have the apex at the top and half should have the wide base at the top. Maintaining this orientation sew a 1″ strip to the right hand side of all triangles. Press seam. 

     When the triangles are oriented to form the diamonds the sashing strips will be on the right. 

3.      
      Trim the excess strips. I lined my ruler up with the wide base and trimmed the bottom of the strip, re-oriened the ruler and lined up with the un-sashed side and trimmed the overlap at the top. 
4.      Repeat until all triangles have one sashing strip attached.
Cutting and sashing the border triangles
1.      Cut 3 strips 8.5” wide (or the height of your ruler if it is different to mine)
2.      From these strips cut 10 full triangles and 8 half triangles
3.      Cut the full triangles in the same way you cut the strippy ones.
4.      To cut the half triangles find the centre of your ruler (mine is marked) and find ¼” to the side of that (this is marked on mine as well). Place this 1/4” mark on the edge of your fabric and cut.
5.      Sew a sashing strip to 8 of the half triangles and all of the full triangles. Trim as you did for the strippy triangles.
   
      You will need to cut another 8 triangles for the right had side of the quilt. to do this trace a half triangle from your ruler into paper and draw a line 1/2″ beyond the RHS. Use this as a template to cut the triangles for the right had side of the quilt. You will not need to add sashing strips to these ones. 


Y   Assembling the quilt top.

1.      Lay all your triangles out on your design wall or floor, matching triangles from strip sets to form diamonds. Aim for a good spread of the colours. See how the sashing strips are forming the lattice?
Take a picture!

Unfortunately mine has gone missing!

2.      I toyed with the idea of sewing the rows together in an ‘on point’ arrangement but I think horizontal rows will work best.

3.      Working one row at a time, pair the triangles and pin (I really think this will help on this one) 1+2, 3+4 … 11+12 (you will have one at the end of the row left over).  When pinning, make sure the points extend about 1/4″ beyond as pictured. This will ensure your rows end up straight. 


5.      Chain piece the two triangle sets then pair again and again until you have a row. Sew on the last triangle. Compare to your picture!

6.      Press seams towards the ‘peak’ triangles
7.      Repeat with the remaining rows.
8.      To join rows pin together. If you pressed the seams to the side when sewing the triangles into the rows they will nest at the points where they meet and form a ‘V’ at the raw edges when you are pinning.



      Quilt top done!

Basting, Quilting and Binding
1.      You will need to cut and piece the fabric for the back to ensure it is large enough. I cut carefully to make the print matched up and left a continuous print – but there will be one stripe missing.
2.      Baste your quilt – I use pins but use whatever method you are comfortable with.
3.      Quilt as desired – I quilted with a row of stitching down the centre of the sashing strips, through the diamonds to create a secondary diamond grip and echo quilted in the border diamonds with stitches 1” apart.

4.      Bind – I used 7-8 strips cut 2.5” on the straight of grain. If you prefer bias strips you will likely need to adjust the fabric amounts listed in the ingredients.

Congratulations, you are done!

55 x 64 lap quilt.   

Kristy