Cartwheels Quilt

When I first sketched out this quilt, I planned on making a lap size quilt, but after I evaluated the leftover pieces and parts, I worked out a way to make twin size quilt. I am so glad I did! Fewer leftovers and a larger quilt to snuggle. Good all around!

To make this quilt you will need:

1 Strawberry Fields jelly roll
3 yards cream fabric for background (20167 13) {this is one of the fabrics in the line}
2/3 yard red polka dot for binding (20166 21)
3 3/4 yards for backing (20160 15)

All seam allowances are 1/4″ throughout.
1. Cut 9 strips 2 1/2″ x width of fabric from the binding fabric. Set 8 aside for the binding. The one remaining strip will be used for the quilt blocks.

2. Cut 43 strips 2 1/2″ x width of fabric from the background fabric. (There is only 1/2″ extra from this length, so cut carefully!)

3. Remove the one cream strip from the jelly roll and set aside to use for a background strip. Substitute in the extra binding strip in it’s place.

4. Pair the jelly roll strips with the background strips. Sew together in pairs. Iron seams open.

5. From each strip, cut into 9  4 1/2″ lengths. Cut one 2 1/2″ segment from the remaining part of the strip. Toss the selvage edges.
6. Set aside the 2 1/2″ segment and one of the 4 1/2″ segments from each strip. These will be used for borders and backing.
7. Take 4 of the 4 1/2″ segments and place them in the order shown in the photo.

Sew together to make one block. This will be an A block.

8. Take the 4 remaining 4 1/2″ segments and place them as shown in the photo. Sew together to make one block. This will be a B block.

***Please note, the blocks are a mirror image of each other.

9. Repeat until all 80 blocks are assembled. 40 A blocks and 40 B blocks.

10. Layout the blocks in a 8 x 10 array, alternating A and B blocks throughout. The blocks should form a secondary rectangle pattern when they are placed correctly.
11. Take a photo to see if the colors are distributed evenly. When you are pleased with the layout, sew the blocks together in rows, then sew the rows together.

12. At this point, if you want a lap quilt that measures 64″ x 80″, you could baste, quilt and bind as desired. But I wanted to use more of my fabric, so I added a bit to the length and made this quilt a twin size. Take background strips and piece them together to make a strip 2 1/2″ x 65″. Make 2.

13. Add one of these strips to the top of the quilt. Add one strip to the bottom of the quilt. Trim overhanging ends. Press well.

14. Take 8 segments that are 2 1/2″ wide and sew them end to end to make a long strip. Make 2.

16. Add one strip to the top of the quilt. Add one strip to the bottom of the quilt. Press.
The quilt top is finished!

17. Cut the backing fabric into 2 equal lengths (at least 68″ long).

18. Sew together 17 of the 4 1/2″ segments, side to side. This will form a strip of coins to add in the middle of the quilt back. This serves two purposes…it uses extra pieces from the quilt top, and it also breaks up the repeat of the fabric. This way you don’t have to worry about matching up the pattern when sewing the seam. Piece the backing using the coin strip in the middle with two large panels on either side. Press the seams well.

19. Baste, quilt and bind as desired. I stippled my quilt in cream thread.

One twin sized quilt that measures 64″ x 88″.

Amanda Jean
{Crazy Mom Quilts}

Framed In Quilt

I can’t tell you how excited I am to be back to share with you all a fun quilt made using none other than the Fig Tree Quilts line of fabric, Strawberry Fields.  I always love Joanna’s lines of fabric for Moda but I’ve gotta admit that this line is one of my favorites!  And I am so in love with this quilt!  At the end of this tutorial I’ll show you two alternate layouts that completely change the look of the quilt–but all three quilts are made using one simple block.

I am so excited that Leah from Burgundy Buttons is offering an adorable Framed In quilt kit.  We all know how cute these are!  So, if you love this quilt as much as I do be sure to snatch up your kit! =)

After you have finished looking over my tutorial,  I would love if you would pop over onto my blog at Little Miss Shabby.  I have another quilt tutorial posted for a great quilt you can make using the leftover fabric from this quilt.  Enjoy!

1.25 yd. Ivory Beige Polka 20166-15
1.25 yd. Lg. Floral 20162-13
.75 yd. Red Gingham 20164-11
4 yd. Backing 20160-15
.5 yd. Binding Red Polka 20166-21
1 Fat 8th Bundle Strawberry Fields

-A 9″ Square piece of template plastic to square up your blocks

I chose to hand quilt my quilt–any of the layouts work beautifully for hand quilting.  If you’d like to hand quilt your quilt as well, you may wish to pick up some of the following Finca Perle Cotton (I used size 8).  A 10 gram ball of each is perfect.


All seam allowances are 1/4″.
Begin by giving all of the fabrics in your fat 8th bundle a nice pressing.  Ironing wonderful new fabrics is always so much fun; way better than ironing clothes! =)  It’ll also provide you with better accuracy as you begin cutting the strips for your blocks.
Now you are ready to begin cutting the strips. 
We will be cutting the strips along the short side of the fat eighth–so your strips will be 9″ long–do not cut them along the 22″ side.
Cut the following from each fat eighth:
2 strips 2.5″ x 9″
2 strips 2″ x 9″
3 strips 1.5″ x 9″
Cut the following from the Beige Polka Dot:
6 strips 5.75 x WOF (width of fabric)
subcut into (36) 5.75″ squares & then cut in half diagonally once to make 72 triangles

We are now going to sew our strips together.  First, cut a small amount off of 1 strip of each size–a different amount for each width.  This way we won’t have to worry about our seams lining up when we sew our strip sets together.

Now we will start sewing together our strips–sewing same width strips to same width strips.
After sewing together several strips, iron seams to one side and trim the set to 13.25″.  Using the small pieces (you can see them pictured up above on the right side of the cut), continue sewing more strips together, stopping every so often to trim them down to 13.25″ and then keep going–always utilizing the whole strip.
Continue sewing together the strips and trimming to 13.25″ until you have sewn/trimmed all of the strips.  You will have twice as many 1.5″ strips–you will use two of them per block & only one per block of the 2″ width and 2.5″ width.
Now we will sew together four strips to make a rectangle strip set measuring 6″ x 13.25″.  Each rectangle block will consist of (1) 2″ x 13.25″ strip, (1) 2.5″ x 13.25″ strip, & (2) 1.5″ x 13.25″ strip.  Place the different widths randomly within the block.  You want them all to be different, scrappy, and fun.
Continue sewing together the strips until you have a total of 36.  Press seams to one side.  As you start sewing the last few blocks, you may find that you need a few extra 1.5″ strips–just trim down some of the wider strips as you should have extra of those. =)
To make the corner trimming template, cut a paper square 3″ and then cut diagonally once to make a triangle.  Tape the diagonal edge of the paper triangle to your rotary cutter as pictured and trim off each corner of each strip set rectangle.
We will now sew our corner triangles onto our strip set unit.

The triangle unit will extend beyond the strip set unit as shown.  Sew together using a 1/4″ seam allowance as pictured.

Press seams and voila! =)  Continue to finish all 36 blocks.
Now, these are some stretchy little blocks due to all of the bias edges and can very easily get ironed out of whack. =)  Because of this, I chose to square up my blocks before going any further.  To make a great template, take your 9″ piece of template plastic and draw a line diagonally from each corner forming an “x”.  Take a few of your finished quilt blocks and measure the width of the strip set in the middle (it should be 5.5″–if it is slightly larger or smaller, use your measurement).  Divide that measurement in half (if your measurement was 5.5″ that would be 2.75″).  Using this measurement draw a parallel line that distance from each side of one of the diagonals you made on the template initially–for example, 2.75″ on each side of the diagonal. 
You can use this template to square up all of your blocks–just line up the center strip set with your template and trim. =)  You will now have (36) wonderfully square 9″ blocks.
And now the fun part, deciding which layout you prefer:

This is the one that I chose–but, you could also go with a fun zig zag:

Or, this fun little number:

Once you have decided on your layout, sew together the quilt blocks accordingly.


From the Red Gingham, cut 6 strips 2.5″ wide x WOF.  Sew the strips together, press seams open and cut two strips 54″ long and two strips 58″ long.  Sew to quilt top.

From the Floral cut cut 6 strips 4.5″ wide x WOF.  Sew the strips together, press seams open and cut two strips 58″ long and two strips 66″ long.  Sew to quilt top.

Your quilt is now ready to layer, quilt, and bind. =)  You will have extra fabric leftover–who doesn’t love extra fabric?!?  This quilt would be very easy to make larger if you wanted to by simply adding more quilt blocks or pop on over to my blog for another fun quilt to make with your leftover goodness (sneak peek below).

One fun, summery, perfect for a picnic, quilt measuring approximately 66″ x 66″.

Corey Yoder
{Little Miss Shabby}

Easy Strawberry Fields Bricks Quilt

Hello again friends! I’m Amy Smart from Diary of a Quilter.  I love fast quilt projects that come together easily.  I also love Moda pre-cuts because they make it easy to put together a quilt quickly and at the same time provide a great variety of coordinating fabrics. What could be better? 
This super simple quilt is perfect for beginners or a great choice when you’re in need of a quick project. 


2 Bella Solid White Charm Packs
2 Strawberry Fields Layer Cakes*
1/2 yard red dot binding
3 3/4 yards yellow strawberry backing

*Only 42 10″ squares are needed for this project, so you could get by with just one Layer Cake. I chose to use 2 Layer Cakes because I wanted to use only darker fabrics to contrast with the white Bella solid. I saved my leftover 10″ squares and used them for a second quilt. You can see the second quilt I am putting together on my blog, Diary of a Quilter.

[SIZE OPTION: This would be an easy quilt to make into a twin size quilt by adding a 4″ border all the way around.  For this adjustment, 1 yard of additional fabric would be required for the border, cutting it into 8  4.5″ strips.  5 1/4 yards would be required for the backing and 5/8 yard for binding.]

Leah at Burgundy Buttons has created an exclusive kit for this project. All the Layer Cakes, Charm Packs and binding yardage as well as backing options for the Strawberry Fields Bricks quilt are put together and sold at a discount.  Hurry because supplies are limited and you know those Strawberry Fields pre-cuts are flying fast.

Take 42 10″ squares and cut them in half, creating 84 5″ x 10″ rectangles.

Sew one Bella Solid 5″ square to the top of each of the 84 5″ x 10″ strips. I like to just chain sew them through.

Press open.  
Sew 14 of the new units together, starting with the white square at the top and alternating the white square at the bottom until you’ve reached 14.  Create 5 more similar sets of 14 ‘bricks’. (I suggest laying out the whole quilt before assembling these rows.)
Before sewing the assembled rows together, press the seams to the left on rows 1, 3, and 5 and press seams to the right on rows 2 and 4. This will help when matching up seams as you sew the rows together.
Sew the 6 rows together.  [If you are planning to add a border to enlarge the quilt, now would be the time.]
Quilt using your favorite method. (Mine was machine-quilted by my wonderful friend, Meridee) and Bind. Here is a simple tutorial for the binding method I used.

One lovely, quickly assembled 63″ x 84″ quilt! (If you add the 4″ border, the finished quilt will be 71″ x 92″.) I love the simplicity of this quilt and the way it can really showcase beautiful prints. I hope it will be a fun one for you too!

Amy Smart
{Diary of a Quilter}

Tea Caddy

Hi there!  I am AnneMarie of Gen X Quilters and I’ve whipped up an adorable little Tea Caddy that is not only functional, but a great way to bring a little quilty decor to your kitchen or sun room.  This is my first Moda Bake Shop tutorial, and I’m so pleased to share it with you today.  Strawberry Fields was a natural selection for this project, the colors are beautiful and make me want to pour out a cup of tea to drink in the morning sun!  Won’t you join me?

1 charm pack – Strawberry Fields by Fig Tree for Moda
1/3 yard white/cream solid
1 fat quarter (18″ x 22″) linen in natural
approximately 15″ x 23″ batting
approximately 15″ x 23″ muslin
1/4 yard polka dot print for binding and handles
4 – 1/4″ eyelets

1.  Select 15 charms to be used in the half-square triangles (HSTs) for the front and the back of the caddy.  Since these charms will be paired with white in the HSTs, it is best to choose the colors and brights from the charm pack instead of the lights and neutrals.

2.  Each 5″ charm square should be cut into (4) 2 1/2″ squares.  Cut all 15 charms to yield (60) 2 1/2″ squares.

3.  Next cut (4) 2 1/2″ strips across the width of the fabric of the white solid.  Each 2 1/2″ strip will then be cut into 2 1/2″ squares.  You will need (60) 2 1/2″ squares of white solid.

4.  Mark a diagonal line across all 60 white solid squares on the wrong side of the fabric.  This is your sewing line.

5.  Place one 2 1/2″ white square, right sides together with one 2 1/2″  print square from your charms.  Sew along the diagonal line.  Chain-piecing works well here.  Sew 60 units.

6.  Cut 1/4″ away from your sewn line to create a seam allowance.  Repeat for all 60 units.  This will create one HST unit.  Press the seam allowance toward the print.

7.  Choose 30 HST units to be used for the front of the caddy.  Layout your HSTs in 5 rows, with 6 HSTs in each row.

8.  Sew HST units together one row at a time.

9.  Then join the rows together to complete the caddy front.  Repeat steps 7-9 for the back of the caddy with the remaining 30 HSTs.

10.  Sew the front and back pieces together, making sure to sew the bottom edge of the front to the bottom edge of the back.  This will ensure that when you fold the caddy in half, both sets of HSTs will be right side up when the caddy is closed for storage.

11.  Cut the batting and muslin slightly larger than the quilt top (caddy front and back sewn together) – approximately 15″ x 23″.  Layer the muslin on the bottom, then the batting, and then the quilt top to create your quilt sandwich and baste.

12.  Quilt as desired.  I used an all over stipple pattern because I didn’t want to detract from the beauty of the HSTs!  After you’ve completed the quilting, trim the excess batting and muslin, and square up the quilt sandwich to prepare for binding.
13.  But wait… Don’t forget we need to sew the inside lining of the caddy with the pockets for storing the tea bags!  Cut the linen to be the same size as your quilt sandwich (20 1/2″ x 12 1/2″).
14.  Choose 12 of the remaining charms for the inside pockets of the caddy.  Cut each of those squares into 3″ x 5″ rectangles.
15.  Fold each rectangle in half widthwise to make a rectangle 3″ x 2.5″ and press to make the pocket.
16.  Fold the linen in the half widthwise and press to create line dividing the top half of the caddy from the bottom half.  We will eventually sew along that line.  But now, it will help you place the tea bag pockets.
17.  Arrange the pockets on the linen into 4 rows.  Each row should have 3 pockets.  Pin the pockets in place with the fold at the top of the pocket.  We will sew around the 3 other sides to secure.  When arranging your pockets, take note of where your caddy will fold in half.  Make sure to place the pockets far enough away from the bottom fold so the tea bags inside will not interfere with folding.  Also leave space for the eyelets at the top and bottom of the caddy.
18.  Sew around the right, bottom, and left sides of each pocket, leaving the top (fold) open for the tea bags.  Use a top stitch 1/8″ from the edge.
19.  Pin the linen to the quilted layers – making a 4 layer quilt sandwich.  Stitch across the center of the quilt widthwise to secure the linen to the quilt.
20.  Now it is time to sew the polka dot binding onto the 4-layer quilt sandwich.  Cut (2) 2 1/2″ strips across the width of the fabric to use for double-fold continuous binding strips.  Here is a great tutorial if you are not familiar with making double-fold continuous binding and mitered corners.
21.  Almost there!  Use a pen to mark the holes for the eyelets at both the top and bottom of the caddy.  I spaced my holes about 3″ in from the left and right sides, and about a half inch down from the top binding.
22.  Use an eyelet plier kit or the punch tool that comes with some eyelets to install four eyelets at the locations you marked your holes.  Make sure to follow the manufacturers instructions for installing and if you can, practice on a scrap quilt sandwich first.  It is a little nerve wracking punching holes in a quilt you just spent so much time on making pretty – so make sure you know how to install the eyelets first!
Here is a close up of the eyelets from the front.  Classy!
23.  The last thing to do is make the straps.  Cut (2) 1 3/4″ x 20″ strips from the polka dot fabric used for the binding.  Finger press the short end 1/4″ under wrong sides together and sew a top stitch at both ends to secure.
24.  Fold lengthwise in half, right sides together.  Sew 1/4″ seam on both straps.  Turn right sides out using a safety pin if needed.  Press.
25.  Tie a knot in the ends of the straps as you thread them through the eyelets.  Done!

One adorable tea caddy to impress your guests!  The caddy measures approximately 21 1/2″ x 12 1/2″.  Each pocket fits 1-3 tea bags, so this would nicely display some of the sampler packs.  Hope you enjoy this project!

AnneMarie Chany

Strawberry Fields Forever Quilt

Hi! This is Jera from Quilting In The Rain bringing you this Strawberry Fields Forever pattern (thanks again Lalobe from Austria for the name idea)! I love this pattern because each block will be unique to your own making…there are no precise measurements; simply cut, stack, whack and sew!

This quilt top requires a single layer cake pack. I used the Strawberry Fields collection by Fig Tree & Co. Make one yourself and visit my blog {} for an easy chance to win a Layer Cake!

Note: this pattern assumes a 1/4″ seam allowance.

1 layer cake pack (Forty-two 10″ squares)
3 yards for backing
3/8 yard for binding

Step 1 – Choose four squares from your layer cake pack.

Step 2 – Layer all four squares so they are stacked evenly on top of one another. Then, using a rotary cutter and ruler, make 2 diagonal cuts as shown below.

Step 3 – After making the above cuts through all four layers of the squares, you will yield the following. All four pieces of the letter ‘a’ should be the same shape and size, as with the letter ‘b’ and ‘c’.

As shown below, switch around the letter ‘b’ pieces so that the colors are alternating. In this photo, I simply switched the top ‘b’ with the bottom ‘b’.

Sew the newly arranged a, b and c pieces together as shown below to yield four blocks.

Step 4 – Layer all four pieced-together blocks so they are stacked evenly on top of one another. Rotate the stacked blocks 90 degrees, as shown below. Similar to step 2, make 2 diagonal cuts.

Step 5 – After making the above cuts through all four layers of the pieced-together blocks, you will yield the following. Same as before, all four pieces of the letter ‘a’ should be the same shape and size, as with the letter ‘b’ and ‘c’.

Here’s the fun part! Switch around the a, b or c pieces, so long as they are switched with their same letter (e.g. only switch a ‘b’ piece with another ‘b’). For this quilt, I stuck with only switching around the ‘b’ pieces. I like the way it looks, and it’s simpler. Here are two different ways you can switch around the ‘b’ pieces:


Step 6 – Then, sew the newly arranged a, b and c pieces to form 4 finished blocks (9″ squares finished).

Step 7 – Repeat until you have a total of 42 finished blocks. Then, arrange each block in 7 rows of 6 blocks each.

Sew each block together in each row, and then sew the rows together. Quilt and bind!

One fabulous 52″x 60″ quilt!

That’s it (I told you it was easy). It might seem a little confusing at first, but once you get started you’ll quickly get the hang of it. Thanks for checking out my tutorial!

Come visit me at whether it’s to check out my latest crafting, or for a chance to win a Layer Cake (or both!).

Happy Quilting!

Jera Brandvig

Strawberries and Sunshine Reversible Rug/Bath Mat

strawberries and sunshine reversible rug bath mat 

Hello you all! I’m Penny of Sew Take a Hike and I am so very excited to introduce you to my first Moda Bake Shop project, the Strawberries and Sunshine reversible rug/bath mat. This project was born out of a need I had to combine the lovely line of Strawberry Fields with a fun polka dot terry cloth towel.

100_0377 rug front


½ yard Bella Solids yellow (9900-23), cut into (3) 6″ x WOF strips
1 jelly roll Strawberry Fields (you will have leftovers)
cotton terrycloth towel measuring 24″ x 32″ (I cut up a premade polka dot towel)
cotton batting measuring 24″ x 32″
spray starch
fabric glue
corner template
walking foot

All seams are 1/4″ unless otherwise specified. WOF = width of fabric.
1. Cut 25 of the jelly roll strips in half and set one of the 1/2 strip sets aside for use.
2. Sew the 1/2 strips together, longways, in sets of 5.


3. Cut each of the panels from step 2 into (8) 2½” wide strips.


4. Randomly sew three of the strips from step 3 into one strip. Repeat this process so you end up with 12 strips that consist of 15 squares. There will be 4 strips from step 3 leftover.
5. Arrange the 12 strips as you like and sew them together, making sure to pin at the seams so the squares line up.


6. Print and cut out the template included in the Printer Friendly Version (at bottom of post):
7. Lay the template on one corner of your patchwork rug top and use a rotary cutter to round the corner. Repeat with remaining 3 corners.
8. Using the patchwork oval as a template, lay the patchwork on top of the batting and use your rotary cutter to trim the batting to the same shape as the patchwork oval. Repeat this step with the terry cloth backing.
9. Layer your batting and patchwork together, pin, and quilt as you desire. In this next section, you will make your continuous prairie points.
10. Using one of the 6” x WOF prairie point fabric strips, fold it in half longways and press.
11. Using a ruler and rotary cutter, cut a straight line from the edge of the fabric just to the center fold line every 1.5”, alternating cuts from the top edge of the fabric to the lower edge.


I used a 2″ wide ruler to do this, lining the previous cut edge up with the 1.5” mark on the clear ruler to make even cuts.
12. Cut off the first 1.5” flap of fabric at the fold line.


13. Cut off the last two flaps of fabric at the opposite end.


14. Fold each square in half to form triangles, making sure to fold each one in the same direction and press as you go.


15. Place a dot of fabric glue on the outside tip of each triangle and fold the triangles in half, bringing the raw edges even with the center of the fabric strip. Press as you go.

100_0334 100_0336
16. Fold the top triangles over on top of the lower triangles, pressing and using spray starch as you go.
100_0338 100_0340
17. Baste stitch ⅛” from the straight edge.
18. Repeat the steps to make prairie points with remaining two 6″ x WOF strips.
19. Using two full prairie point strips and only 8 points from the third prairie point strip, pin prairie points around the right side of the perimeter of the rug, making sure to line up the prairie points correctly when you end with one prairie point strip and start with another.
100_0343 100_0344
20. Sew the prairie points to the quilted patchwork rug top, sewing very close to the stitching on the prairie point edge.

21. Sandwich the patchwork rug top right side up and lay the terry cloth right side down and pin.
22. Use a ⅜” seam and your walking foot to sew together, making sure to leave a 4″ hole for turning.
23. Turn the rug and press.
24. Use your walking foot to topstitch 1/8″ around the outside of the main part of the rug, making sure you sew the turning hole closed.
25. Stitch in the ditch on the patchwork side of the rug in 6 lengthways seams to attach the terrycloth to the patchwork front.

One 32″ x  25¼” reversible rug/bath mat


Penny Layman
{Sew Take a Hike}

Pretty-fied Sheet Set

Hi…I’m April (the words behind Mickey Zimmer and Sweetwater Cotton Shoppe), and we are delighted to bring you a tutorial on how to Pretty-fy your sheets…using a charm pack and a little bit of yardage. Hop on over to our blog and see what’s new… Happy quilting! mickey & april {sweetwater cotton shoppe}
  1 charm pack of Strawberry Fields
1/4 yd gray dot
1 yard strawberry print
1 queen size sheet set [***sheets may vary in size…change pattern accordingly]

Use a 1/4 inch seam allowance unless stated otherwise.

On each pillowcase and flat sheet, cut 5 1/2 inches off the cuff end.

Now open the seams of each pillowcase using a seam ripper.

From the strawberry print cut 4–9 x 42 inch strips

From the dot cut 4–1 1/2 x 42 inch strips.

Sew 2 strips of the strawberry print end to end. Do this with 2 dot strips also.

Press these seams open.

Press all dot strips in half.

Measure the flat sheet raw edge. Be sure that the long dot strip is that length plus 1 inch. Fold in each end of the dot strip 1/2 inch and press.

Now break open that charm pack…(admire the colors for a moment)…luscious aren’t they?!

Separate them into piles…2 piles of 10 squares and 1 pile of 20 squares.

Sew each pile of charms together.

Press these open also.

Sew the dot piping to charm strip…be sure to sew long piping to long charm strip and short piping to short charm strip. Repeat for 2 short and 1 long. When piecing the long piping strip be sure to center dot leaving 1/2 inch at each end.

Then sew strawberry strip to other side of charm strip.

Press seam toward strawberry print.

Lay raw 40 inch edge of pillowcase so right side is toward the charms and center it then stitch down…there will be excess at each end. When stitching it down make sure sewing line is to the left of stitch on piping. Repeat with other pillowcase.

***Flat Sheet…lay so that ends match up with dot ends…stitch down. Set aside for now.

This part is tricky…layout the pillowcase then roll up the case.

And bring the strawberry print over and lay it on top lining up the seam.

Pin the layers together.

Sew layer together using a 3/8 inch seam allowance.

Pull the case out of one end…


Trim each side so that it is even with the side of the case.

Fold pillowcase so that right sides are out and starting at the open end line up charms and sew.

Turn pillowcase inside out and stitch 3/8 inch seam…this will finish off the edge.

Repeat with end. First stitch end with wrong sides together.

Turn inside out and stitch 3/8 inch seam allowance to finish edge.

Viola! 1 pillowcase finished…repeat with second…

To finish the flat sheet…lay it out like the pillowcases and roll the sheet and bring the strawberries over and lay on the seam.

Pin this seam. Be sure each end looks like below. Stitch layers together.

Fold in each end so that it lines up with sheet and dot.

Stitch along edge.


1 Pretty-fied Sheet Set

2 Pretty-fied Pillowcases

1 Pretty-fied Flat Sheet

1 Fitted Sheet

Mom has put together 2 sets of these beauties…Strawberry Fields in front and Buttercup charms, Breakfast at Tiffany’s dot and whimsy piping. Perfect for a wedding gift…or use juvenile prints for a child’s room.

We hope you have enjoyed this tutorial…we sure had fun doing it for you! Also, we’d LOVE to see your Pretty-fied Sheets…so please, pretty please…email us those lovely pictures at; we’d love to post them on our blog!

Happy quilting!

mickey & april {sweetwater cotton shoppe}