Sew Busy! Organizer


Hello!  I’m Polly Monica from Aunt Polly’s Porch!  I’m so happy to be posting here today at the always awesome Moda Bake Shop!  I fell sewwww in LOVE with Moda’s Sewing Box collection and knew it would make some fun things for organizing any sewing room!  I hope you think so, too!  Let’s get busy making these eight sewing projects which include a sewing machine cover, a sewing machine mat, a versatile sewing caddy for your ironing board or armchair, a tub cover, a tie on pin cushion, a chatelaine, a square pin cushion and needle book.


1 Sewing Box charm pack

Sewing Box Charm Pack by Gina Martin for Moda
 
½ yard coordinating print # 1 (notions print white)

FABRIC SEWING BOX Sewing Notions Main Print Moda
 
½ yard coordinating print # 2 (tape measure multi)

Sewing Box - Gina Martin - Moda
 
½ yard coordinating fabric #3 (pins lime)

Sewing Box - Gina Martin - Moda
 
1 yard coordinating print #4 (buttons blue)

Sewing Box, Moda Fabric, Gina Martin, Buttons, 1/2 Yard
 
1.5 yards fusible fleece
 

3.5 yards Jumbo rick rack
Assorted colors and sizes of buttons
 

ABBREVIATIONS and NOTES-
All seam allowances are ¼” unless directed differently.
RST = right sides together
RSO = right sides out
WOF = width of fabric (selvage to selvage)
 
Sewing Machine Cover Instruction
 
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My sewing machine sits down in a Horne sewing table and it’s measurements are- 16” from right to left, 8 ½” from top of machine to tabletop, and 7 ½” deep looking at the machine from the side. (If your machine sits on top of a table, the height will be taller than mine!) You will need to measure your machine and adjust the measurements as necessary.
Take charm pack and cut all pieces in half, giving you two stacks of 42 pieces – 2 ½” by 5” rectangles.

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Set one stack aside, now cut the other stack in half, giving you two stacks of 42 pieces – 2 ½” by 2 ½” squares.

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Set one stack aside, take remaining stack of 2 ½” squares and select 16 for each side of the cover.
Lay them out in two rows of eight squares each (16 for each side).
From the leftover squares, select 4 for a four patch that will be made into a square pin cushion
And select 5 squares to be sewn into a row for a long skinny pin cushion.

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Sew the two rows of squares for one side together- press seams in one direction on the first row and in the opposite direction for the second row so that the seams will nestle together when joined. The resulting long seam can be pressed to one side or open.

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For the center panel on the cover, look at your fabric # 1. If the printed design is directional, like mine was, and you want it to be right side up on both sides of the cover, then you will cut two pieces that are 8 ¾” by 16 ½”. With RST, with the top of the design on BOTH pieces at the top, sew that 16 ½” long seam.

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Now your design should be right side up on both sides of that center seam. If your print is NOT directional then you need no center seam and can cut one piece 17” by 16 ½”.
Sew one pieced set on each 16 ½” end. Press those seams toward the center panel.
 
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Cut a piece of fusible fleece and your fabric # 2 for the batting / backing 18 ½” by 27”. Fuse the fleece onto the wrong side of either front or backing. With RSO, pin the sandwich and quilt as desired. I just did an all-over meander design.

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If you wish to add rick rack or other trim, do it now! Some folks just stitch down the center of rick rack, which is fine with the narrow ones, but for the jumbo size, I like to sew close to the edge, down each side. Then trim off excess batting/backing.

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For the ties, cut one 2 ½” by WOF strip of your fabric #3. Press it in half lengthwise.

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Then open it up and fold the two long raw edges into the center fold and press again.

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Topstitch closely down each long edge.

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Trim off selvage ends, cut it into 4 equal pieces. Lay the cover over your machine and decide where you want the ties to go

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and baste them onto the backing side with the raw end edge even with the side of the cover.

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For the binding, measure the perimeter of your cover and add 8”. Bind the edges your way! Everybody has their own way of binding . I cut my strips 2 ½” by WOF. I join the strips with a diagonal seam, press in half lengthwise, and sew onto the front of the quilt with a SCANT 3/8” seam allowance, flip binding over the seam to the back and hand sew it down. But, the binding can be done your own way!

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If you wish to add a handle at the top of the cover, cut two 2 ¾ ” by 7 ¼”pieces of your fabric #2. Cut one piece of fusible fleece 2 ¾” by 7 ¼”, and fuse onto the wrong side of one fabric piece. If you wish to add rick rack or trim on the handle, sew it onto that piece now.

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I wanted my handle to be a bit more narrow at the ends, so I folded the pieces in half and cut off the corners- see pix below.

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With RST, sew a ¼” seam all around the handle edges but leave an opening at least 2” to turn it through!
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Turn the handle RSO through that opening and hand sew the opening closed. Topstitch 3/8” inch from all edges.
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Measure the cover to find the center and mark it with a pin. Center the handle over that center, but build in a gap!

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Sew through all layers, attaching the handle to the cover at each end.

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I LOVE adding buttons to projects and especially stacking different sized buttons!!

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Add them now wherever you want!! You could even add them down the middle of the rick rack, too!!
All done! Now stand back and admire your creation!!

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Small Square and Tie-On Pin Cushions
 
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Remember that fourpatch and row of five squares you selected and set aside back when you were picking out the squares for your cover front and back?

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If you didn’t sew them together, do it now! Then lay them RST on top of a scrap of your fabric #1 which will be your backing, and cut around them.

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Sew around all sides of the fourpatch, leaving a small opening on one side to turn it through.
Clip the seam allowance diagonally across the corners, but not too close!
This will reduce the bulk there and make those corner points look perfect!

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Turn it RSO, fill it with your choice of polyfil or crushed walnut filler. I like the latter for pin cushions!!

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I get it at the local pet shop- it’s cheap and is actually made for the bottom of small pet cages.
I save my twill tape ties from all Moda jelly rolls and bundles, so I cut my ties for the Tie-On pin cushion from one of those ties. If you don’t have any, you can make ties like the ones you made for the cover from fabric scraps or use ribbon you have in your stash. To determine how long to cut your ties, measure your machine as shown below.

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Add 6” to that measurement. My machine measured 24” + 6” = 30”. So I cut a piece of the Moda twill tape 30” then cut that in half. Insert one end of each tie between the long skinny 5 patch and its backing.

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Then sew all around the edges, but remember to leave a small opening to turn it through.

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Turn it RSO through that opening, pulling out the ties, too. Fill both pin cushions al full as you like. On the skinny one, first fill it only partially up to the second seam line. Stitch through all layers at that seam between the second and third square to facilitate it fitting snugly around the corner on your machine, then fill it the rest of the way.

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Sew the openings closed with tiny stitches.

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Add stacked buttons in the center of the four patch pin cushion and at the sewn down seam on the tie-on pin cushion.

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Voila!! Done!! Yaaaay!!

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Tie the Skinny pin cushion onto your machine!! Add pins!

 
Sewing Machine Mat
 
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Cut a 16 ½” by 16 ½” piece of your fabric #4. Grab your stack of 2 ½” by 5” charm pack pieces, and select 8 pieces. Sew them together along the 5” sides. Press the seams open. Now cut this strip in half lengthwise giving you two strips that are 2 ½” by 16 ½”.

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Sew one strip on each side of the fabric square you cut above.

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Select 10 more strips, sew them together as described above, press seams open and cut in half. Sew one of the strips across the back of the piece. Set the other strip aside for now.

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Now, select 10 more strips for the tall pocket layer, sew them together as above, press seams open, then lay that piece on top of your fabric # 4, and cut a lining strip that exact same size. With RST, sew down one long side. Turn RSO, press and top stitch 3/8” from seam edge.

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Lay this pocket strip across the bottom of the mat with raw edges even all around and pin, then baste these raw edges together.

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Now, stitch through all layers wherever you want to create individual pockets. Make sure to backstitch at the top edge of each pocket seam.

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I made all my pockets the same size by stitching through all layers on every other seam line.

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Next, take the half sized strip you set aside above that has 10 squares and cut out a lining for it from your fabric #4, exactly as you did it above. With RST, sew across the top edge, turn it RSO, press and top stitch it 3/8” from edge.

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Lay it over the tall pocket strip on the lower edge of the mat, creating a second row of smaller pockets.
Baste the raw edges together on sides and bottom. Then sew through all layers again at seams to create the pockets.

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In the photo above, the orange pins show where the tall pockets were stitched and the purple pins show where I chose to sew my smaller pockets. You can sew yours wherever you want!
Use this top to cut a piece of fusible fleece the same size. Iron it onto the wrong side of the finished top. Cut the backing from your fabric #4 just a bit bigger all around than the top. Pin the sandwich and quilt as desired, but don’t quilt through the pockets!!

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If you want to add rickrack or trim, sew it on now!!
Trim the edges even and bind as desired using your fabric #3!

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Hand sew the binding to the back of the mat! Taadaa!!
Done!! YAY!! Now set your machine on it and fill up those awesome pockets!!

 
Versatile Caddy
 
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Believe it or not, you still have some leftover 2 ½ strips from your charm pack, and you have scraps from your yardage we’ve been using, which you can cut into a few more 2 ½” by 5” strips if you want more variety!
Select 3 strips for pockets on one end of the caddy and 4 strips for the thread catcher on the other end of the caddy. Sew them together, cut a piece of fusible fleece for the four strip set, and fuse it on the back. Lay them both on your fabric #4, and cut a matching lining piece for each.

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With RST, sew one long side together on both, turn both RSO, press seams and topstitch 3/8” from seam edge. On the four strip piece with the fleece inside, quilt it as desired.

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Set both aside for the moment!
Cut 2 pieces 6 ½” by 18” from fabric # 4, and one piece the same size from fusible fleece.

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Fuse the fleece on the wrong side of one piece. Layer RSO, then quilt as desired, creating the caddy base.

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Align the three strip piece at one end and baste the raw edges on all three sides.

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Then stitch through all layers on the 2 seam lines to create 3 pockets. Backstitch at the top of each pocket seam.

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Align then baste the SIDES of the four strip set at the other end of the caddy base. Then pin the center bottom of the four strip piece to the center of the bottom of the caddy base and then make two small pleats as you pin the rest of the bottom edge of the four strip piece to fit the base.

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Then baste across the bottom edge.

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If you wish to add rickrack or trim, add it now!

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Trim edges even and bind with fabric #3. Set aside.
Select 6 leftover 2 ½” by 5” strips for the caddy pin cushion.
Cut them in half creating 12 squares 2 ½” by 2 ½”.

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Arrange them in two groups of 6 and sew each group together, leaving a small opening in the center seam of one group to use to turn it through later.

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Place the two pieces RST, and using a ruler and pen, draw a line 1” in from each corner point and trim those corners off.

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Now, sew all around the edges. Turn it RSO through the opening in the bottom seam.

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Fill the pin cushion with polyfil or crushed walnuts and handstitch the opening closed.

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I cut an 8” piece of rickrack and hand stitched/gathered one long edge and drew the thread up to create a ruffled flower.

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I hand stitched it to the center of the pin cushion and added some stacked buttons, as well.

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You can embellish your pin cushion as desired! Center the pin cushion in the middle of the caddy and hand stitch it through the back side to the caddy. YESSSSSSSS! All done!!

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Now you can use it on the end of your ironing board and on an armchair in front of the TV!!

 
Tub Cover
 
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I wanted a tub to sit on my sewing table for sewing tools and materials. I had a large plastic 16 ounce Cool Whip tub container that was the right size! The circumference was 18” and the height was 5”.

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Using the stack of leftover 2 ½” by 2 ½” square charm pack pieces, select 20 pieces and arrange and sew them together in two rows of ten squares.

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If you want to add rickrack or trim, do it now!! I added rickrack down the center seam line.
Cut and fuse a matching piece of fleece to the back of it, then quilt it as desired. I grid-quilted it.

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Cut a matching piece of fabric #4 for the lining, but make one end about an inch longer. Also, just a note here that for backings and lining and even batting/fleece, you can piece smaller scraps together when needed. I save small pieces of batting and connect them with fusible batting tape.

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You will see this tape on the back of this tub cover!

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Another tip is to trim off corners of seam allowance at points, as shown in photo below, to make them turn RSO better.

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Sew two long sides and one short end seams- leaving open the short end with the longer lining piece.
Turn the cover RSO, topstitch 3/8” from the edges and fold up the longer lining end to enclose the raw edges and stitch it closed.

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Pin the cover TIGHTLY around the tub, then slide it off. Sew it closed on the topstitch line of the finished end. I added a stack of buttons for embellishment, then slid it back onto the tub.

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Another little project complete!! Yahoo!!

 
Sewing Chatelaine
 
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Line up 18 to 22 of your leftover 2 ½” squares in a long row. (Don’t forget you have some yardage scraps you can cut into 2 ½” squares to supplement your leftovers and provide a bit more variety.)

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Sew them together, press the seams open then press it in half lengthwise

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and use the same technique you used above to create the sewing machine cover ties to make a long topstitched piece.

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Fold in one short raw edged end as you topstitch it, and slip in a 2” loop created from a bit of stash ribbon or thinner rick rack as I did.

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Knot the other raw edged end.

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Set aside for now. Select a green 2 ½” square, fold it in half then in half again and cut into a petal shape using pinking shears if you have them,

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if not, just use regular scissors. Cut carefully from between two petals just to the center of the piece. Set aside for the moment.

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Select 8 more 2 ½” squares and sew them into four patches. Lay them RST, and trim off the bottom corners creating a triangular shape with the narrow end at the bottom. This will become your strawberry shaped pin cushion. Sew all around leaving the top open. Using needle and doubled thread, sew a gathering stitch around the open top edge.

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Turn RSO, and stuff with polyfil. Push the knotted end of the finished strip down into the polyfil and draw up the thread- gathering the raw edge tightly inside around the strip. Secure it with stitches and a secure hidden knot.

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Wrap the leaf piece around the top of the strawberry and hand stitch it there.

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Add some pins and needles, if desired!!

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Sew on a small button a few inches in from the loop at the other end, so you can secure your small scissors there!! Well done! Another part of the set is complete!! You can wear your chatelaine around your neck while doing hand sewing in your favorite chair in front of the TV and never lose your scissors between the cushions again!!
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Needlebook
 
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After all this, I still had a few leftover 2 ½” by 5” strips, and I cut two more from yardage scraps.
Sew the four strips together. Cut and fuse a matching piece of fleece to the wrong side. Quilt as desired. Add trim or rickrack if you desire. Cut a 4” piece of stash ribbon or thin rickrack, fold into a loop and baste on the center of the back.

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Cut a matching piece of fabric #4, or other yardage scrap, for the lining. With RST, sew around the edges leaving a small opening for turning.

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Turn it RSO, hand sew the opening closed then topstitch around all edges.

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Cut three 4” by 6 ¾” pieces of scrap batting .
Draw a line down the center with a heat erasable pen.

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Line up this drawn line with the center seam of the cover.

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Carefully flip it over and sew down the center seam from the cover side and through all thicknesses.

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Erase the drawn line on the batting with a hot iron. Fold the book on that center seam line.
Add a button or two on the front allowing it to be secured with the loop from the back!

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Add some needles inside and that’s it! You have completed the set of eight projects in this pattern collection!!

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Pat yourself on the back and enjoy using your new sewing room creations!!

 

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Eight sewing room essentials including a Sewing machine cover, a square pin cushion, a tie on pin cushion, a versatile caddy, a sewing machine mat, a tub cover, a chatelaine, and a needle book!
 
Thanks ever so much for trying out these projects! You may have spotted my sweet Westie – Yogi, in some of the photos!

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Come visit us soon at my blog- www.auntpollysporch.blogspot.com!!

We’d love to have you come and visit!!
Polly Monica
{www.auntpollysporch.blogspot.com}

2012 in Review

Happy New Year quilters and sewers! 2012 was a busy year at the Moda Bake Shop. 199 posts published! Click through to see the top ten projects from 2012.


The Moda Bake Shop’s Top Ten Projects of 2012:

1. Sunbathing Companion by Stella Rutherford | {The Golden Adventures of a Very Dark Horse}


2. Sophie Car Seat Quilt by Jennie Pickett | {Clover & Violet}

3. Cathedral Window Pincushion by Kim Niedzwiecki | {gogokim.blogspot.com}

4. Patchwork Chevron Quilt by Jeni Baker | {In Color Order}

5. Renaissance Waves Quilt by Karin Vail | {cascadequilts.com}

6. Owl Tag Along Toddler Backpack by Angela Pingel |{cuttopieces.blogspot.com}

 

7. Lucky Layers Tiered Dress by Anshu Jain | {Blooms And Bugs}

8. So Soft Washcloths by AnneMarie Chany |{Gen X Quilters}

9. Isosceles Picnic Quilt by Penny Layman | {sewtakeahike}

10. Four Squared Quilt by Polly Monica | {auntpollysporch.blogspot.com}

Wishing you a happy, safe, and sew-ful New Year,

120-Minute Gift: The Queen Bee Bag

 

Hello, again!  I’m Polly Monica from Aunt Polly’s Porch blog. I am so pleased to be back at the Moda Bake Shop with a large mat and ruler tote bag designed just for quilters like you to use when you go to bee or a quilt class!!

Believe me when I say you will certainly be The Queen Bee when your friends see your new bag!!  And it would sure be a favorite gift for a quilting friend this holiday season!


 
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1 charm pack ( I used A Stitch in Color)
2 yards coordinating solid (I used Moda  Bella slate grey)
1.5 yards print from same collection (I used the Spectrum print from the A Stitch in Color collection)
2  small gold decorative buckles (about 3/4”)
10” of matching Velcro
batting, matching thread
 

Cutting Directions-
From the solid grey fabric-
cut four 4.5” strips the full Width Of Fabric (WOF) for the straps
cut a strip 22.5” by WOF, then sub cut it into
    one 22.5” by  28” piece for bag front lining and
    one 18.5” by 14” piece for the tall ruler front pocket
cut another 22.5” strip by WOF, then sub cut it into
    one 22.5” by  28” piece for bag back lining and
    one 14” by  9.5” piece for short ruler front pocket and
    two little  1  3/8”  by  5  1/4” rectangles for buckle straps on mini pockets
cut one strip  9.5” by WOF, then sub cut it into
    two 9.5” squares for inside pocket linings

From the print yardage-
cut a strip 14” by WOF, then sub cut it into
    one  14” by 18.5” piece for bag front (behind the ruler pockets) and
    one  14” by  18.5” piece for the tall ruler pocket lining
cut a strip 14” by WOF, then sub cut it into
    one 14”  by 22.5” piece for the back pocket lining and
    one 14”  by 9.5” piece for the short ruler pocket lining
cut a strip 22.5” by WOF, then sub cut it into
    one 22.5”  by  28” piece for bag back

From the 42 Charm Squares in the pack-
    select 18 charms squares for the bag front
    select 15 charm squares for the back pocket
    select 4 charm squares for the 2 front mini buckled pockets

From the Batting-
cut two  22.5”  by  28” pieces for bag front and back
cut one  18.5”  by  14” piece for the tall ruler pocket
cut one   9.5”   by  14” piece for the short ruler pocket
cut one  22.5”  by  14” piece for the back pocket 
cut two  80”  by   1.5”  strips for the straps (these can be pieced or fused together from smaller pieces)
 
Sewing and Assembly Directions- 
 
Straps-
Sew two  of your  4.5”  by  WOF  grey strips together on the short end.  Press the seam open.   Next, press both long sides under 3/4”.

Slip one 1.5”  by 80” batting strip under one of the folded in long sides. 

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Bring the other long edge over to meet the folded edge and pin all the way to edge.

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Stitch the two edges together 1/4” from edge.  Stitch to end, turn and stitch across the raw edged short end, then back up the other side.

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Repeat this topstitching again 1/8” from the edges.

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SAFN!!  (Set Aside For Now!)
 
Bag Front–  (using the 18 charm squares and one 18.5” by 14” print piece)

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Select 4 of the charm squares, sew them together to make a strip. 
Press seams however you prefer, then sew the strip to one 18.5” side of the print piece.
Repeat this process with 4 more charms squares sewn together then sewn to the opposite 18.5” side.
Take 5 of the charm squares and sew them together in a horizontal strip, press seams all one way
Take another 5 charm squares and repeat the process but press the seams in the other direction.
Sew the two rows together, nestling the seams at each intersection.
Now sew this piece to the top of the previously pieced front, press well.

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Pin it to the front batting  piece and quilt as desired.  I used a sort of zig zaggy stitch to quilt it. 
Here’s a look at it from the batting side…but you can quilt it however you prefer!

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SAFN!  (Set Aside for now.)
The same process is used to make both the tall and short ruler pockets on the front of the bag.
With right sides together, match up the solid grey tall ruler pocket piece with it’s matching print lining piece and it’s matching batting piece.  Pin and stitch across one 14” side.

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You want the lining to show a tiny bit across the top of the pocket at the seam line from the front side, so you will not press the sewn seam as you normally would, but allow the actual seam to be about 1/4” down from the pressed top edge… which means that the bottom edge of the lining will be a tad short…  about a 1/4”…so no big deal!   This is hard to explain in words but look at the photos and you’ll see what I mean.

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Quilt the pocket as desired.  I used a bright variegated thread with an simple meander design.  Repeat this process with the second smaller ruler pocket.  SAFN!

Next we make the 2 mini buckled pockets!  Take the two grey  1  3/8” by 5  1/4” pieces and press them in half lengthwise.  Open up the pressed piece and now fold the long raw edges into the center fold and repress.  Now the raw edges are enclosed inside.  Topstitch down each long side .  Slide the buckle and center it onto the strap.

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Pin and stitch it to one charm square. Do the same with a second charm square.

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Using the remaining two charm squares as pocket linings, place them right sides together with the two charms you just sewed the buckle straps on.

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Remember to leave an opening in one side as you stitch around them, so that you can turn them right side out!

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Turn them right sides out, press and topstitch across the top edge of each pocket.

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Now center and pin one buckled mini pocket on top of the small quilted grey ruler pocket as shown in the photo.

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Stitch it down on three sides.  Now lay the small grey ruler pocket on top of the larger one and baste the side seams together with a scant 1/4” seam allowance.

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Now center and pin the remaining mini buckled pocket onto the taller ruler pocket and stitch it down on three sides as shown.

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Place the double ruler pocket piece onto the quilted front,  centered left to right and having the bottoms aligned together.  Baste the pockets down using a 1/4” seam allowance.

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Take one prepared strap and with the raw end of the strap even with the bag bottom, pin it up and over one side of the ruler pocket piece, and then bring the other raw end of that strap back down the other side of the pocket to end at the bag bottom.

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Slowly stitch through the strap, pocket and bag front all at one time.  Start stitching at the bag bottom/raw end of strap, and stitch up until you are about 5” below the top edge of the bag, turn and stitch across the strap at that point, then turn again and stitch right back down the other side of the strap, thus enclosing the raw edges of the ruler pocket. I stitched the straps on using matching grey thread and stitched between the 2 lines of top-stitching previously done with the bright variegated thread.

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Repeat this now on the other end of the strap … up the other side of the ruler pocket.  SAFN!
 
Bag Back-
Pin the print bag back piece to it’s matching batting piece and quilt as desired!

Back Pocket-
Arrange the 15 charm squares into three rows of 5 squares each and stitch them together.

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Pin the matching batting piece to it and quilt as desired.  I used the bright variegated thread and did a simple meander!

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With the matching print pocket lining piece, place right sides together, pin and stitch across one 22.5” side.  Do the same thing with pressing that seam as you did on the front ruler pockets… as you want to see a bit of the lining from the front side.

Lay the second completed strap on the back  pocket- over the first seam line from each side of the pocket, with raw short end edges even with the bottom of the pocket.

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Pin the strap in place up over that seam on one side of the pocket, over the finished top edge of the pocket and then back down the other side of the pocket, ending with the other raw edged end even with the bottom of the pocket.

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I again used matching grey thread to sew the strap onto the pocket, stitching between the rows,  previously topstitched.   Sew up one side from the bottom of the pocket to the top, turn sew across the strap to the other side and turn again and then sew down the strap to the bottom.

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Lay the completed pocket on top of the bag back with sides and bottom even.  Baste around the pocket using a 1/4” seam allowance.  SAFN! 
 
Inside Pockets-
Use the leftover charm squares, cutting a few more from the leftover printed yardage scraps, to make up 2 sets of 4 charm squares arranged and sewn together like a four patch.

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Put these two four patches together with the pocket lining pieces previously cut from the grey yardage with right sides together and stitch all around the edges with a 1/4” seam, remembering to leave an opening for turning!

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Turn them right sides out and press.  Top stitch across the top edge of each pocket.  At this point, sew one 5” piece of Velcro (soft side) on the inside of each pocket, near the top.

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Center the two pockets on one of the print yardage lining pieces as shown below, and pin in place.

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Unpin just the top of each pocket and fold  it down so you can sew the other side of the Velcro where it needs to be in order to match the Velcro on the pocket itself.

Now,  bring the pocket tops back up and repin, then stitch around all three sides of each pocket.

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Lay the two grey bag lining pieces, right sides together, matching the sides and bottom and pin.  Stitch the three sides with a 5/8” seam allowance, remembering to leave a 5” opening in the bottom for turning.

Now pin and stitch the outer bag sides with right sides together, using a 1/2” seam allowance.
 
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Turn the bag lining right sides out and push it down into the outer bag with it still right sides IN…which means they are right sides together!!

Match the side seams and pin all around the top edge, making sure you don’t accidentally catch any of the two straps in that top edge seam.  Sew the top edge seam with a 1/2” seam allowance.

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Turn the bag right side out through the opening you left in the bottom of the lining.  Sew that opening closed, then push the lining down into the bag.

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Again, as in the top edges of the pockets, you want some of the grey lining to show at the top edge of the bag, so manipulate the edge that way and pin it all around the top.

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I “stitched in the ditch” – in the seam line between the grey lining and outer bag to hold the top edge as I liked it with the grey lining showing a bit on the outside, then I topstitched it twice with the bright variegated thread.

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And finally, VOILA!!  all done!  YAY!!  Smile

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one 22” by 26” quilter mat and ruler tote bag
Time to put your mat and rulers in the new bag and get on your way to bee or quilt class!!
 
Yogi's bed
 
Yogi and I hope you like the Queen Bee Bag quilting tote and will enjoy making one for yourself or for a gift for a quilter friend!

Come visit us soon, over at my blog- http://www.auntpollysporch.blogspot.com/
We hope you have a wonderful holiday and a most blessed New Year!!

  1signature
Polly Monica
{auntpollysporch.blogspot.com}

Studio Tour: Aunt Polly’s Porch

Today we are touring the studio of  Moda Bake Shop Chef Polly Monica of the blog Aunt Polly’s Porch.

{Have you joined our Show Off Your Stash Link Party yet? If not, you can link up here.}

Let’s take a peek inside this fabric-filled sewing space!

See what I mean? Polly keeps her stash organized (and labeled!) by color. She has a spot for everything a quilter could want: a nice large quilting surface, ironing table, cutting table, and plenty of storage for notions and tools.

Polly even has an adorable sewing companion:

I’m sure many of you can relate. There is just something about quilting fabric that seems to attract pets, isn’t there?

Thanks for letting us into your space, Polly! You can see more of her studio {here} and {here}.

Getting Organized,

Four Squared Quilt

four square cover



Hello, again from northern Virginia!  I’m Polly from Aunt Polly’s Porch, with a fun and fast quilt just in time to put out for spring! I used the bright and graphic “Half Moon Modern” collection from Moda!


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one jelly roll
one charm pack
2 yards coordinating solid fabric
4 yards backing
1/2 yard for binding
batting


From coordinating yardage, cut 19 strips 2 1/2” by width of fabric

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Sub-cut 12 of those strips into 8 1/2” pieces (56 for quilt)

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Sub-cut the remaining 7 strips into 4 1/2” pieces (56 for quilt)

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Sort jelly roll strips into groups of 4 strips of different colors/values.

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Sew the 4 strips together and press seams to one side or open, your choice!
Repeat this with all the groups of four strips.

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Sub-cut each strip set into 2 1/2” pieces.

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Mix up the pieces and sew 4 of these strips together to create a 16 patch block.
Repeat to make 28 of these 16 patch blocks.

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Next, select 14 of the charm squares and trim them to 4  1/2” square.

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Take the other charm squares and cut them in half.

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Sort these 2  1/2” by 5” halves into pairs and sew them together on the long sides.
Don’t press the seams at this point!  Leave them closed!

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Cut this unit in half.  Don’t press seams now, either!

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Match up 2 of these half units mixing colors/values and sew together, making 28 four patches.

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Make sure the seam allowances are flipped to different sides so that center seam lines up perfectly.
(This is why we didn’t press those seams earlier!)  Now we know which way to press those seams!!

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Sew one 4  1/2” coordinating solid strip to opposite sides of the 4  1/2” charms squares,

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and also to opposite sides of the four patches.  Press seams toward solid strips.

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Next, sew one 8 1/2” strip to opposite sides of these units and press seams to solid strips.

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Arrange blocks into 8 blocks across by 7 blocks down. 
Alternate 16 patch blocks by solid surround blocks.

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Alternate the single center square blocks with the
four patch center blocks between the 16 patch blocks,
or place them completely randomly!

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Sew the blocks together across each row, then sew the rows together.

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Press the top well, then layer with your batting and backing!

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Quilt as desired!  I free-motioned a simple meander all over!

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From the binding fabric, cut six strips 2  1/2” by width of fabric.

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Sew the strips together with your favorite method, then fold in half and press!

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Sew the binding onto the front side of the quilt edges by machine,
then flip and sew down by hand.

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Don’t forget the label!!  The quilt is all done!!

Now…what to do with the leftover blocks???

I have 12 leftover four patches and enough leftover white to
add the white surround to finish those blocks and 12 leftover
sixteen patch blocks!

You could make the above quilt larger if you wanted to,
but I decided to take eight of each block and using the
same alternating design,

make a long skinny quilt that can be used as a bed runner
or a table runner.  I had just enough of the backing green
and white print to put on the back of the runner, too.
And I used white scraps to bind it!

After that, I had 4 of each block left, so I again
used the same alternating design and sewed them
together make two 16″square  pillows.

I actually like the bed runner and pillows
using the back side, too!!

one luscious quilt,  65” by 57″

two 16″ square throw pillows

one 16″ by 80″ table or bed runner

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Yogi and I can’t wait for you to come visit our blog!!  Smile

Polly Monica
{auntpollysporch.blogspot.com}

Flurries Wall Hanging

Flurries final

Hello, again from northern Virginia!  I’m Polly from Aunt Polly’s Porch, with a fun wall quilt just perfect for your front door to welcome Christmas to your home!

I used the adorable “Flurry” collection from Kate Spain!
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1 jelly roll
5/8 yard for background
1/2 yard for borders
1/2 yard print for fussy cutting ornaments
3/4 yard backing
1/2 yard for bucket and binding
batting
paper-backed fusible


4 buttons for snowflake centers
thin ribbon for ornaments
white rick rack for the snowflakes
red rickrack for inside border

Pull out the green strips from the jelly roll to use for the tree and cut them in half.
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Arrange eleven of them in a pleasing order and sew them together along the long sides.  You may use the same fabric several times if you like!
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I pressed my seams open, but it’s your choice!  🙂
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Cut a piece of fusible 16” by 22”, fold it half lengthwise and cut out a fun tree shape.  I wanted mine to look sort of Seuss-ish!!  You can draw on the paper side to try out different tree branch looks then cut it out on the one you like the best!!
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Fuse it onto the wrong side of the green strippy piece.
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Cut the tree out 1/8” inside the edges.
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Cut the background 19” by 36”.  I used a 3” by 10” brown scrap from my stash for the tree trunk as there was no brown jelly roll strip in this collection. Press a strip of fusible onto the wrong side of the brown fabric scrap, then cut out a 2” by 9”  rectangle for the trunk.
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Cut out a 6” square piece of bucket fabric.  My bucket is 5” tall and 6” across the top edge and 4” across the bottom edge.  Use a ruler and draw the shape on the back, then cut it out. Fuse it onto the wrong side of the bucket fabric and cut it out 1/8” inside the edges.
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Cut or tear four 4” wide strips selvage to selvage for the borders.  Sew them onto the 4 sides of the background. Center the treetop, trunk and bucket on the background and fuse in place.  You can either straight stitch around the raw fused edges or you can blanket stitch them.
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Now comes the fun part- decorating the tree.  I auditioned several different colors of rickrack and liked red the best.  But I waited to sew it on until after the quilt is quilted.  Press fusible onto the wrong side of the ornament fabric
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and then fussy cut duplicates of different motifs from your fabric to use for ornaments on the tree.
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I cut out quite a few different ones and auditioned them on the tree but found them too small for my liking as they disappeared on the busy treetop.
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So, I drew a simple shape on the fusible and pressed it on the wrong side
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of a few different jelly roll strips and tried them, too, on the tree and found them better than the others, but still too busy… sigh… 
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So, then I drew the same simple shape on the fusible again and pressed it on the back of a more solid red fabric. After cutting them out, I auditioned adding some of the smaller fussy-cut motifs on top of the red ornament and then tried those on the tree and finally found the one I liked the best!
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I removed them and made the quilt sandwich and quilted the wall hanging in a simple meander, changing threads to match…red for the bucket, green for the tree, brown for the trunk and white for the rest.  I then fused five of these ornaments on the tree, leaving ample space between them for the snowflakes!
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I cut 3” pieces of white rickrack for the snowflakes- three pieces for each snowflake.  I pinned them onto the tree between the ornaments.
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Then I stitched around the edges of the fused ornaments and down the center of each rickrack strip that formed the snowflakes.
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I added light blue buttons in the center of each snowflake and small red bows at the top of each ornament.  I also fused on 4 of the smaller candy canes, then stitched around those edges, too.
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Then I selected a colorfully striped jelly roll strip for a bow on the bucket.  I used pinking shears to cut the strip in half lengthwise before tying it into a bow, trimming the ends and tacking it on the bucket with a button in the center!
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And then I stitched the red rickrack down the seam where the borders are sewn onto the quilt.  Now all that is left is binding.  I cut (4) 2 1/2” wide strips of fabric selvage to selvage, stitched them together, pressed them in half and sewed them onto the quilt edges with a scant 3/8” seam allowance.  If you want to add a hanging sleeve, you can!
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Don’t forget the label on the back!!  And voila!!  You are finished!!  🙂

one 26” by 43” cute as can be Christmas wall hanging or door quilt!!
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I hope you enjoy making this quick little project that is just perfect to welcome Christmas into your home and heart!  It’s so quick and easy you could even make a few for gifts!!
Yogi's bed

Yogi and I hope you like this design and wish you will drop by and visit us soon at Aunt Polly’s Porch! Have a happy “Christmas in July”!!

1signature
{Aunt Polly’s Porch}

Let’s Go Trippin’!

trippin' final


Hello again!  I’m Polly from Aunt Polly’s Porch blog and I’m so happy to be sharing my designs again on the Moda Bake Shop! I know many of us are looking forward to school being over soon and going on a fun summer vacation.  So, I thought you might need a travel set to take with you. Let’s Go Trippin’!!!

My five piece trippin’ travel set includes a hanging bag, a large weekend tote bag, a laptop bag, a cosmetic case and a day-tripper bag.  My set was made with amazing fabric from Moda’s “Oh, My!” collection by Sanae.

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a layer cake
a jelly roll
2 yards for straps
3 yards for linings
fusible fleece
fusible interfacing
48” plastic zipper for hanging bag
14” plastic zipper for cosmetic bag
Velcro


big cool buttons for bag closures

1. The Hanging Bag-
Select twelve layer cake pieces for the front and twelve layer cake pieces for the back.  Sew them together with three squares across and four down.
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As I’ve had shoulder surgery, I am very conscious of the weight of things I carry, so I chose not to add fleece or batting to the hanging bag and quilt it.  Instead, I used interfacing to give the fabric more body without the added weight…but you could also add batting and quilt the bag if you so desired!
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Following the manufacturer’s directions for your fusible interfacing, press it to the wrong side of both front and back.  Use a marking pen and draw a line right down the center on the right side of the front for zipper placement.

Next, for the hanging loop, cut a strip of lining fabric 2  1/2” X 8”.  With wrong sides together, press in half lengthwise.  Now open up the strip and bring the long raw edges into the center fold and repress (like bias tape).
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Topstitch down both long edges and down the middle.
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Place the short ends over each other with a pin and set aside.

For the handles, from the strap fabric, cut four strips 3  1/2” by 21” and cut four strips of fusible fleece 1  1/2” by 21”.   Fuse the fleece on the wrong side of the strips.
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Press one long edge over the fleece then first press the remaining edge of each strap under 1/4”, then fold that over the first pressed side and top stitch close to that edge…which is close to being right down the middle of the strap.
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Press the strap flat then fold the two long edges together and stitch beginning about 3” from the raw ends. Backstitch at the beginning and end of that stitching line and set aside for the moment.
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Cut four rectangles 6” X 25” from the strap fabric for the top and bottom yokes for front and back.  Fuse interfacing on all four rectangles.
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Pin the raw ends of the handles onto the pieced bag front and back at the seams as shown below and baste across the handle ends with a 1/4” seam allowance.
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At this time, you can sew on the yoke pieces with a 3/8” seam allowance, onto the top of both the front and bag back, but only on the bag bottom for the time being.  Topstitch along the yoke seam and through the handle where it comes out of that seam as shown below.  You will wait to sew the last yoke piece onto the bag front until after the zipper is attached.
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Lay the closed zipper down centered on the drawn middle line with the wrong side of the zipper against the right side of the bag front. Using a zipper foot, stitch down the zipper 1/4” from the each edge of the zipper tape on both sides.

Next, cut two strips from the strap fabric 2” by width of fabric for the zipper trim.  Press one long edge of each strip under about 3/8”. On one side at a time, lay the raw/unfolded edge of one strip right side down on top of the zipper with the raw edge of the strip evenly aligned with the edge of the zipper tape.  Stitch down through all layers with a 1/4” seam allowance.

Flip the strip over and now with the wrong side against the right side of the bag front, press and stitch the folded edge down, thus enclosing the edge of the zipper tape.  You can also topstitch the edge of the zipper trim that is sewn to the zipper tape closest to the teeth.
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Attach the zipper trim strips like this on both sides of the zipper.
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The zipper is longer than you need, so at this time you can sew across the closed zipper at the end of the bag then cut off the leftover zipper end and zipper trim strips and discard.
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Now carefully sew the remaining front yoke onto the bottom of the bag front and topstitch as you did on the other yokes/handles. Go carefully and slowly as you sew across the cut off zipper end.

Pin and stitch the hanger loop with a 1/4” seam allowance on the bag front bottom in the center with the loop raw edges even with the bag yoke bottom as shown below.
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Flip the bag front over and using thin scissors, carefully cut through the fabric and interfacing right down the center- go carefully so as not to cut through the zipper in any way.
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Press the raw edges back away from teeth on both sides of the zipper.
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Next, I folded the bag front lengthwise down the middle with the side edges pinned together, I trimmed off 2” from both sides.  Repeat this with the bag back.
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While the bag front and back are folded, trim off the top two corners at the sides in a straight line from the edge of the zipper facing strips to about 1  1/2” above the top yoke seam.
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Repeat with the top of the bag back.
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To finish the top center edges of the bag where the clothes hangers will come out, you will need to cut 2 pieces from the strap fabric 2  1/2” by 6”. 
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Fold one long edge under on each piece about 1” and press.  Cut one strip in half. 

Unzip the front about 3” then lay one small piece with right sides together on the top edge of the bag front on each side of the zipper.
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Do the same with the longer piece on the bag back at the top edge.
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Stitch them on with a 1/4” seam allowance.  Flip the facings to the wrong side and top stitch them down as shown below.
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Repeat with the facing strip on the top of the bag back.
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Use the bag front as a pattern piece by laying it cross grain on the lining fabric.  The bag front and back lining is cut out in two pieces.  It is pieced with a bottom yoke band. Cut 2 lining pieces matching the outer bag pieces and two bottom bands that are 6” tall by the width of the finished outer bag pieces. Trim the top corners to match the angled outer bag corners.
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Cut one lining piece in half and press the cut center edges under about 1/4”- later, this will be hand sewn on the inside of the zipper tape. You can topstitch this folded edge if you desire.  Sew the bottom bands onto the lining bottoms.

Now, were ready to assemble the hanging bag!

Layer the 4 bag pieces together with the outside bag pieces in the middle with their right sides together and the bag linings on the outside with their right sides out and pin all around. 
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Stitch all around the bag edges with a 1/2” seam allowance. Finish this seam edge with a wide zigzag stitch.
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Hand stitch the front lining down on both sides of the zipper and around the “neck” edges.  Add a zipper pull if desired.
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F.Y.I- the little hanging loop that was stitched into the center of the bottom seam is used by looping it over the hangers coming out of the top to make the hanging bag fold to an easier size to carry!  🙂
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OK, the biggest piece is done, 4 more to go!! 🙂


2. The Weekend Tote bag-
Cut the remaining layer cake squares into 5” squares- you will get 4 from each layer cake piece.
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Select 19 squares for the front, 19 for the back, 8 for each side and 10 squares for the tote bottom.  Lay them out as shown below, leaving out the center block to form a center “slot” in the top row.  I arrange them on my design board right next to each other so I know what fabric squares are next to each other including the sides and bottoms.
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Sew all the squares together into 4 pieces- front, back, 2 sides and bottom.  Lay the pieces wrong side down on top of the fusible fleece with the fusible side up, cut around the pieces and press with iron.
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Quilt the pieces at this time. I stitched diagonally through the squares with a wiggly stitch.
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Select two groups of 4 squares. Sew together to make two 4 patch pieces for 2 large pockets.  Lay the two pieced pocket fronts right sides together on the lining fabric.  Cut around them and then sew around all sides, leaving an opening to turn it right side out.  Press, then topstitch across the top edge and set aside.
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Use the quilted bag pieces as patterns to cut out the 5 lining pieces by laying them right sides together on top of the lining fabric and cutting around them.  I fused interfacing to the wrong side of all the lining pieces to give the tote a bit more structure.  Place the 2 completed pockets on the right side of one lining piece. Pin and stitch around them on three sides.
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To make the long closure tie, cut a strip of lining fabric 1  3/4” by 20”. Press the strip in half lengthwise, then open it up and fold the long raw edges into the center.
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Refold and press, then topstitch down both long sides.
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To make the straps, cut two pieces of lining fabric 5” by 30” and cut 2 pieces of fusible fleece 2” by 30”.  Fuse it down the center of the strap fabric, then press one long edge under 3/4”.
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Fold the raw edge side over the fusible then fold the pressed edge over it all. 
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Topstitch down the folded edge through all thicknesses, then down both sides.  Repeat for second strap, then set aside with the closure strip.
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Sew the bottom piece on the long side to one bag side.
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Sew one long edge of each sidepiece to the front and then to the bottom and then to the back, assembling the outer bag completely.  Do the same with the lining pieces, using a 3/8” seam allowance.  The lining piece with the 2 pockets is the back and the plain lining piece is the front.  Remember to leave an opening in the lining between the bottom and back pieces to be able to turn the purse through later!!
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Pin the straps as shown below over the seam lines on the front and back.
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Pin the center fold of the long thin closure strap on the center “slot” and stitch them all down with a 1/4” seam allowance. 
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Pin the lining over the outer bag with right sides together, matching all the side seams and center slot edges all around the top.  Stitch with a 3/8” seam allowance. Clip the inner corners and trim the outer corners to facilitate sharp points when completed. 
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Turn the tote right side out through the opening you left in the lining.
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Then stitch that opening closed as shown below.
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Push the lining down inside the bag. Pin, press, and topstitch around the top finished edges about 1/4” in down.
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If you like a firmer bag bottom, you can cut a piece of heavy cardboard or plastic needlepoint canvas to fit the bottom and cover it with leftover scrap fabric.

Now, the Weekender Tote bag is VERY large, so I wanted a way to make the size adjustable!  I added a buttonhole and button on each side to be able to button it up when I want it smaller and unbutton it when I need the bag to hold more!  The button and buttonhole are about 1/4” in from the side seam and the same distance from the top edge.
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You don’t have to do this if you only want your tote to be full sized.

This is what it looks like when the button is in the buttonhole, making the tote sides smaller.
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Sew on the big closure button where you like on the front of the bag in the center. Because I also wanted the bag closure tie to be able to be tighter if the bag is not too full, or looser if the bag is really stuffed, I stitched two ties together in two places for varied tightness.
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Voilaaaa! Piece two is also complete! 
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YAY! Only three more to go!

3. The Laptop Bag-
For this bag, we will use the jelly roll! Pull the duplicate strips out of the pile of jelly roll strips and set aside then cut all the other strips in half at the center fold.
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Using only one half of each strip, sort then sew the strips into groups of three.

Then sub-cut the strip set into 2 1/2” segments.
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Using strip sets of three squares makes piecing the bag much quicker than sewing together each square separately. Layout the strip sets in any way you like in order to get one piece made with 10 squares across by 7 squares down. This piece is the front of the bag and both sides.  Sew together, press as desired and iron fusible fleece onto the wrong side.
front plus sides
Next, layout the strip sets in order to get one piece made with 8 squares across by 8 squares down. This piece is the bag back and the bottom.  Sew together, press as desired, and iron fusible fleece onto the back.
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Quilt each piece as desired! I just did a simple meander!
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Use the two quilted pieces as patterns for the lining by laying them right sides together on the lining fabric and cut around them.  Set aside for now.

Using the leftover strip sets, arrange and sew a piece together with 8 squares across by 3 squares down for the top flap. Press and iron fusible fleece onto the back, then use it to cut a matching piece from the lining fabric.  Quilt it as you wish.  Trim off the corners as shown below. 
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Before we sew the outer flap and flap lining together we have to make a little flap loop. Cut a piece of fabric 2” by 7”.  Fold in half lengthwise and press, then open it up and fold the long raw edges into the center, then repress, topstitch both long sides and press as shown below.
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Pin the loop in the center of the flap as desired, trim the raw ends even with the flap edge, and baste across with a 1/4” seam allowance.
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With right sides together, pin and stitch around three sides of the top flap.  Turn right side out, press and topstitch around the seam.  Stitch the soft strip of a 9  1/2” long set of coordinating Velcro strips along the flap edge as shown below.
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Sew the coordinating rough strip on the quilted outer front about 4” down from the top edge.
Next sew the side seams and bottom seam on both the outer quilted bag and on the lining.  Remember to leave an opening in one lining seam to turn the bag through.
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From the strap fabric, cut one 4” by 22” strip for the strap. Cut one 1  1/2” by 22” strip of fusible fleece. Fuse the fleece strip down the center of the wrong side of the strap. 
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Press one long edge under 1/4”.  Fold the long raw edge over the fused fleece then fold the other side over that. Stitch that folded edge down from end to end, and press.  Now fold the two stitched edges together and pin then stitch through those edges, starting and stopping 3” from each end.
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Pin the strap ends to the top back edge as shown below and baste them down with a 1/4” seam allowance.  Next pin the top flap over that handle and baste with a 1/4” seam allowance.
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With right sides together, pin the lining to the outer quilted bag around the top seam and stitch with a 3/8” seam allowance.
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Turn the bag right side out through the opening left in the lining seam then stitch that opening closed and push the lining down into the bag.
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Pin then topstitch around the top seam!  Taaa daaaa!!  🙂
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Piece three of the travel set is now complete!  Yessss!
Now, three down and only 2 to go!!

4. The Cosmetic Bag-
Using the leftover strip sets, layout two sets of 24 squares using a 6 squares across by 4 squares down layout.
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Fuse fleece on the wrong side of both pieces.  Using leftover 5” squares and jelly roll strips, piece together to create 2 lining pieces.
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Place the lining and outer bag side wrong sides together and quilt as desired.
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Cut a piece of fabric 2” by 5”.  Fold in half lengthwise and press, then open up and fold the long raw edges into the center fold, and repress.  Cut into two equal pieces.

Take the zipper and stitch across the top ends about 1/4” from the top of the teeth as shown below.  Then trim off ends to 1/4”.
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Next, slide those stitched raw edges into the fold of the prepared strip then topstitch through all thicknesses close to each long edge and down the middle of the prepared strip as shown. Trim the strip edges even with the zipper tape.
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Lay the zipper down on top of the bag side and on the other end of the zipper, place a pin 1” from the end of the bag piece. 
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Stitch across the zipper at the pin and then cut the zipper off leaving about 1/4” after the pin.  You can do this stitching by hand or by machine using a very wide zigzag that fits over the width of the teeth.
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Then finish this end of the zipper the same way as the other end by slipping the cut edges into the fold of the prepared strip and topstitching as desired.  Be careful as it is easy to break a needle trying to sew through the zipper teeth.  Trim the strip edges even with the zipper sides.
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Place zipper face down on one bag side with right sides together, zipper tape side edge even with the quilted side edge and centered from end to end.  Stitch through all thicknesses 1/4” from the aligned edges.
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Do the same with the other quilted bag piece and the other side of the zipper, but watch that the quilted bag sides line up, as well.
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Unzip the zipper at least 3 inches, then pin and stitch around the other three sides of the bag with a 3/8” seam allowance.  I finished the raw edges with a tight and wide zigzag after clipping the seam allowances at the 2 corners.
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Turn right side out and use a pointed tool to push out the 2 bottom corners.  I used a piece of the beige woven ribbon used to wrap up the jelly roll as a zipper pull!  Yippeeskippee!!  The fourth piece of your new travel set is done!  🙂
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Four down only one more to go!!  🙂

5. The Daytripper bag-
Using the remaining jelly roll half-strips for this fun little bag!
Select 5 strips for the bag and two strips for the top flap.  Select one of the 5 strips to use as an accent.  Cut that strip in half lengthwise.
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Stitch two strips together, then the thinner accent strip, then the other two strips as shown below. Fuse fleece onto the wrong side, then quilt as desired.

Use the leftover scraps of strips and squares to piece together a large enough piece for the bag lining.  Lay the quilted outer bag and pieced lining right sides together and trim the lining to the size of the quilted outer bag.
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Sew the two top flap strips together with the thinner accent strip in between, then trim it to the same length as the bag width, as shown below.  Fuse fleece onto the wrong side of the top flap and quilt as desired.
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Trim off the flap corners as shown below. Lay it right sides together on top of lining fabric and cut around it. 

Cut a strip of fabric 2” by 14” for the button loop.  Fold in in half lengthwise and press, then open it up and fold the long raw edges into the fold, press and top stitch down both long sides. Fold in half and baste it down in the center of the flap as shown below.
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Lay the quilted flap and lining right sides together, stitch around the 5 sides with a 1/2” seam allowance.
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Turn right side out, press and top stitch around the seam edges.  Baste the open raw edges of the top flap with right sides together to the top of the outer quilted bag back. 

Use two leftover 5” squares to make an inside pocket.  Place them right sides together and sew around all edges leaving a 2” opening.
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Clip the corners and turn right side out. press and top stitch across one edge to become the pocket top. Place it on the right side of the lining 2  1/2” below the top and centered side to side, as shown below.  Pin in place then stitch around the three sides.
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Fold the quilted outer bag in half- the fold will be the bottom of the bag.  Stitch both side seams from the fold up to the bag top.  Repeat this with the lining, but remember to leave a 4” opening on one side to turn the bag right side out through!

Box the corners at the fold so that they measure 2” across the boxing seam.

I used one uncut jelly roll strip for the bag strap.  I prepared it the same way I did the button loop by folding the strip in half lengthwise and press with iron.  Then open up the strip and fold the long raw edges into the center fold, press and top stitch down both long edges.
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Baste the raw ends of the strap on the right side over the side seams of the quilted bag with a 1/4” seam allowance.

Time to assemble the bag! Put the quilted outer bag and the lining right sides together and pin the top raw edges together.  Stitch around the top edges with a 3/8” seam allowance.
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Turn the bag right side out through the opening in the side lining then stitch that opening closed. 
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Push the lining down into the bag.  Pin around the top seam and topstitch 1/4” from that seam edge with the top flap out.

Fold the top down to see where to stitch on the button.

Knot the button loop where desired and trim off the excess.
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Yessindeeeedy!!  The fifth and final piece of your new travel set is now complete!

This little bag is the perfect size to throw your phone, keys, and money in for a hands free shopping day at the nearest quilt show vendor hall!!  🙂  I hope you enjoy using this handy travel set on your next trip!
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one long hanging bag
one large tote bag
one laptop bag
one cosmetic case
one small handbag

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Yogi and I would love to have you as a follower on our blog- Aunt Polly’s Porch
Come for a visit soon and let me know how you like this set of projects!
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Polly Monica
{Aunt Polly’s Porch}