Shabby Spring Quilt

Hey Moda Bake Shop readers! It’s Tam from Sew Dang Cute Crafts back again to share with you this fun, “Shabby Spring” quilt. Rag quilts are so great because you can do so many things with them and finish them without actually “quilting”.

* 1 Layer Cake (I used Chez Moi’s beautiful Hunky Dory line)

* 1 Jelly Roll * 1/4 yard coordinating fabric (my blue)

* 1/2 yard coordinating fabric (my cream)

* Warm and natural batting

* Coordinating thread(s)

* Ruffle foot (not necessary, but definitely makes things easier)

Any desired appliques.

1. The first thing we need to do is cut our fabric. To make things a little easier to understand, I’ve included a diagram of our pattern.

– Select 12 layer cakes and cut into 1/4’s to make (48) 5″x5″ squares – (B) in the pattern.

– Select 10 layer cakes for your big squares (A) and several others for appliques if doing any.

– Cut jelly roll strips into (16) 10″ pieces – (E) in the pattern, except the center square. (I used 2 jelly roll and 2 layer cakes: pink and blue).

– Cut (7) 2 1/2″ strips from the 1/2 yard coordinating fabric (my cream). From those strips, cut (16) 13″ pieces and (4) 10″ pieces – (D) in the pattern, except the center square, and (E) of the center square.

– Cut (2) 2 1/2″ strips from the 1/4 yard coordinating fabric (my blue). From those strips, cut (2) 13″ pieces – (D) of the center square.

– Select 8 different jelly roll strips and cut (64) 5″ pieces from those – (C) in the pattern.

Now that you are done cutting, you should have something similar to this. Remember you are making both the top and back of the quilt, so you’ll need to arrange your pattern with this in mind. Here’s how mine looks (top shown).

2. Let’s start with (B). Cut (24) 3 3/4″ x 3 3/4″ squares of warm and natural batting. Layer one (B) wrong side down, then one piece of warm and natural, followed by one (B) right side up. Stitch from corner to corner as seen in the photo below to form an “X” and create your fabric sandwich. You don’t need to worry about backstitching when doing these. Repeat to form 24 (B) squares. I have found the fastest way to do this is by doing a chainstitch. Line all your squares up diagonally and stitch corner to corner in one direction. Then simply clip between each sandwich and line them all up again to stitch from the other corner to corner. 3. Let’s move on to (A). Cut (5) 8 3/4″ x 8 3/4″ squares of warm and natural batting. Layer the fabric and batting as you did in step 2. If you are using appliques, apply those to your top square piece. I used my Silhouette and their fabric interfacing, which was fabulous. Stitch down your appliques through the entire sandwich, or stitch an “X” as you did in step 2 if you aren’t using appliques. I used invisible thread to make it easier for me, rather than changing my thread multiple times. And this is how it looks from the back side. Repeat to form the (5) A pieces. 4. Cut (32) 3 3/4″ x 1 1/4″ strips of warm and natural batting for your (C) pieces. Sandwich in the same manner. Instead of forming an “X”, I chose to simply stitch one line down the middle of the strip to create my sandwich. Repeat to make 32 (C) strips. Again, don’t backstitch and I highly recommend doing a chainstitch to make things faster. 5. Cut (10) 11 3/4″ x 1 1/4″ strips of warm and natural batting for your (D) pieces. Sandwich and stitch together as you did the strips in step 4, with a single stitchline down the center. Repeat to create your 10 (D) strips.

6. Cut (10) 8 3/4″ x 1 1/4″ strips of warm and natural batting for your (E) pieces. Sandwich and stitch together, again just like in step 4, with a single stitch line down the center. Repeat to create your 10 (E) strips.

7. Now we get to sew all our sandwiches together. This is where you want to grab your walking foot if you have one.

The walking foot makes it so the fabric is fed through evenly and you avoid bunching – great for when you are working with numerous layers of fabric! Grab three of your (B) squares. *Note: You can do a larger or smaller seam, depending how much fringe you want. I chose to do a 1/2″ seam for this rag quilt. Using 1/2″ seams, sew the back sides of the quilt together, so the seam is sticking out on the top side of the quilt. Using the same method of sewing back sides together, sew another three (B) squares together and eight (C) strips to create three rows. Then sew those three rows together to form one big block. Repeat with the other 3 blocks that are this style. For the other five blocks, we are going to sew two (E) strips to one (A) square first, then two (D) strips to create one big block. Repeat for the other four of this style. Sew three of the big blocks together to form a row. Repeat to create three big rows. Then sew those three big rows together and stitch around the entire perimeter of the quilt. You are done sewing! 8. Grab a good pair of scissors and a great movie and begin clipping all of those seams that are sticking up. Just keep clipping away until every seam has been clipped. 9. Toss the blanket in the washer, then dryer and be sure to clean out your filters afterwards. You are now done and have a beautiful rag quilt!!! Here’s how it looks from the back.

One rag quilt 36″ x 36″.

I hope you will all come visit me over at Sew Dang Cute Crafts! Thanks for letting me be here today!!

Tamarynn Bennett
{Sew Dang Cute Crafts}

Baby On The Go Diaper Bag

Hello Moda Precut Lovers! It’s Bradie, from A Quilty Kind of Girl here to share my Baby on the Go Diaper Bag Tutorial. I have made this bag a couple of times now, and every Mommy who gets one just loves it! A single jelly roll will yield two bags!

For this project you will need:

One Jelly Roll of Hunky Dory by Chez Moi.
One Charm Pack of Moda’s Hunky Dory.
1 1/2 yards of coordinating fabric for inside of ONE bag.
17 inch zipper.
44 X 48 inch piece of batting.
6 inch by 45 inch piece of batting.

Separate the jelly strips into two piles of 20. Each pile of 20 will make one diaper bag.

Layout your strips for the diaper bag in the order you like. Then sew the strips together, first in pairs, stitching from top to bottom. Then sew the remaining seams in the opposite direction, bottom to top. This will keep your piecing nice and straight. Your finished piece will measure 40.5 X 44 inches.

Sandwich like a quilt top with batting and the bag lining fabric. Quilt however you like. Mine has wavy lines stitched along the seams. Quick and Easy! Trim away the extra batting and backing so your piece measures 40 X 44.

Now you can cut the following size pieces from your diaper bag quilt sandwich:

Main Body of Bag 33 X 16 inches
Sides 2 Pieces 9 X 9 inches.
Side Pockets 2 Pieces 9 X 9 inches.
Front Pockets 2 pieces 6 X 6 inches.
Handles 2 pieces 4 X 40 inches.

The remaining pieces are extra and may be set aside for some other creative endeavor!

Now to prepare the pockets. You need TWO (9 X 9) inch squares, and the TWO (6 X 6) inch squares. Fold 1/2 inch of the top edge over to the wrong side and press. Then fold another half inch and pin in place. Stitch in place to create a finished edge for the top of the pocket. Repeat for the other pockets.

Use this diagram to make the following markings on the bag body. Use a marking method which will wipe away easily once project is complete.

F – 8 INCHES FROM VERTICAL CENTER (mark both sides of bag)

Mark the center of the two smaller pockets, and place the two pockets face down on the bag body, lining up the pocket center with the pocket marking line.

Pin in place and stitch 1/4 away from raw edge. Stitch only the bottom of the pocket. Repeat for second pocket.

Fold pocket up so right side is showing and pin in place. Baste the sides of the pocket to the bag body. We will stitch over these again when we attach the handles.

Stitch the two handle strips together at both ends to form a long circular handle 80 inches long. Lay handle right side down on ironing board. Fold the two long edges in to meet in middle. Then fold the entire strap in half, pressing as you go to hold in place. Stitch down the long side with matching thread to hold handle together. Lay out the handle on the bag body. Center handle over the sides of the two pockets to cover the raw edge of the pocket. Pin handle in place.

Stitch handle to bag body using same thread used for quilting. Stitch up to and along the 12 INCH marking line, then cross the strap and stitch down the other side of the strap. You do not want the handles stitched onto the top portion of the bag.

A close up view of the handle and pocket after stitching.

Oh! The charm pack! What are we going to do with these…

Now to make a shoulder strap for your diaper bag! Choose nine squares….

Sew them together in one long row. Place right side up on top of the 6 inch by 45 inch piece of batting. Stitch around the entire strap about 1/8 inch from the edge.

Trim away all the excess batting.

Fold strap in half the long way, with right sides of fabric facing each other. Stitch down the long side, leaving the short sides open. Turn strap right side out and press with seam to one side. Top stitch the strap with your matching thread, about 1/4 inch from edge, on both long sides of the strap.

Now this is my favorite part… I know I’m getting soooo close to being DONE!! Mark the center of all four pocket sides. See picture….

Place pocket, right sides facing, on the center marking line of the bag body. Line up the center pocket marking, with the center bag line and pin in place. Repeat with second pocket on opposite side of bag. Begin stitching (with a HALF INCH seam allowance) half an inch from edge of pocket, and finish stitching half an inch from pocket edge. This will give your bag nice square corners. 🙂 Repeat for pocket on other side of bag.

This is how the bag will look, once pockets have been attached.

Now we will stitch the side of the pocket to the side of the bag. Fold the pocket over top of the bag to line up the pocket center marking with the EIGHT INCH marking line on the bag. Pin in place. Again you begin stitching half an inch from pocket edge, and finish stitching half an inch from pocket edge. Repeat for second pocket.

Look! You’re getting closer!!

Now fold the pocket over to line up the other side of the pocket. Pin in place and stitch the same way as you did the other two sides.

Another peek…

Now… let’s attach the shoulder strap, k? Mark the center of the short side of strap and pin to the center of the pocket TOP. Make sure your strap is NOT twisted, (Don’t ask…) and pin to the other side of bag as well.

Baste the strap to the bag. We will reinforce these stitches when we finish this edge of the bag.

NOw to attach the zipper… keep the bag inside out. Pin the zipper, right sides facing to the raw edge of the bag top. Stitch 1/4 inch from zipper edge.

Pin other side of zipper to other side of bag top. Stitch in place.

Turn the bag right side out, and top stitch along the edge of zipper with your matching thread. Stitch about 1/8 inch from the edge.

Now, believe it or not!!! it’s time to finish those last two edges of the bag! Pin the opening in place and stitch closed. It is wise to stitch with the zipper side up to anticipate the metal fixtures on the zipper (Again, don’t ask….)
It is a good idea to go back along the inner seams of the bag and finish them either with seam binding, or even a simple zig zag stitch in the seam allowance. This will improve the durability of your bag and it will hold up better if laundering is required. 🙂

One ridiculously cute diaper bag to carry baby’s every need! Bag is large finishing at 16 X 8 X 8 inches. Shoulder strap has a 17 inch drop.

Bradie Sparrow
 A Quilty Kind of Girl

Custom Camera Slipcover

Hi it’s Megan from Brassy Apple. We love a project that sews up quickly with a big impact. It’s easy to add a pop of color and comfort to your camera strap with a custom slipcover!

1 Charm Pack – Hunky Dory by Chez Moi
Fusible Fleece

Step 1: Measure the length and width of your camera strap. Our camera strap measures 22 inches long and is 1.5″ wide. Choose 5 different squares of fabric from the charm pack. Sew the squares end to end with a 1/4″ seam allowance. This should leave about 1/2″ allowance to turn under on each end. Press seams flat.

Step 2: According to package directions, apply the fusible fleece to the the fabric leaving 1/4″ bare on each end. (see photos below)

Optional: To give your slipcover a quilted look, sew straight stitch lines done the entire piece. Starting about 1″ in from the edge, sew your first stitch line. Use your presser foot as a spacing guide and continue across the strap. Stop about 1″ from the opposite edge.

Step 3: Fold the fabric back on each end, press and/or pin in place, and stitch closed.

Step 4: Fold the strap lengthwise with right sides together and sew down the long side using a 1/2″ seam allowance. This will create a tube with the ends left open. Trim excess.

Step 5: Turn right side out and press flat with the seam down the middle of the underside.

Thread your camera strap through and wear your camera with style! Don’t forget to change out the strap with the seasons, holidays or as your heart desires!

If using 5 charm pack squares per strap, then one charm pack will yield 8 different, colorful camera strap slipcovers. These are perfect to give as gifts to friends, family and your favorite photographer!

"Piece of Cake" Folded Star Quilt

Sew . . . I’m Jennifer and I am so excited to show you my tutorial for a folded star quilt! Stop by my blog and I’d love to see your version of this great quilt! Hugs and stitches!

My sisters & I love to try new things. One day my youngest sister Katie, showed me a cool way to fold fabric and yield stars. I love origami and pop-up cards, so this was awesome! It is a very effective way to use a Moda layer cake because you need to start with a square piece of fabric.

Our work is “cut” out for us!

1 layer cake (“Hunky Dory” by Chez Moi #16052-LC)
2 yards sashing fabric (“Spots Sparrow” #16058-11)
4 yards of backing fabric (“Mosaic Peppy Pink #16056-28)

½ yard of binding fabric (“Tonal Bloom Sparrow#16055-28)

To make the stars . . .
Choose one 10” square from your layer cake.
Place the fabric with the wrong side facing up.

Fold the bottom edge of the fabric up to the top edge of the fabric to make a rectangle. Finger press.

Open the fabric back up. Now the fabric has a crease line in the middle.

Take the bottom edge of the fabric up to the middle crease line. Finger press. Open the fabric back up. Now you have made ¼ crease line.

Take the bottom edge of the fabric up to the ¼ crease line. Finger press. Open the fabric back up. Now you have made two 1/8 crease lines.
Rotate the fabric and repeat until you have pressed/creased all sides.

Turn the fabric over with the right side facing up.

Holding the ½ crease line, pick it up and bring up to the ¼ crease line. Be sure to only grab the top layer of fabric.

Lay the fold on top of the ¼ crease line. Place a pin on the left side of the fabric to hold it in place.
Rotate the fabric clockwise 90 degrees. Repeat the previous two steps.
You will want to pull the right corner out to make a triangle. Again, place a pin in the upper left side to hold the fabric in place.
Repeat this process on the other two sides.

You will have “twist” of fabric in the center.
Tap this “twist” down to make a square shape. It will naturally lay down into the square shape. Remove the pins one at a time and press the piece with your iron very well.
Bring the bottom left side of the diamond up to the horizontal ½ crease line. Press with your iron. I put a pin in to hold it in place.
Rotate the fabric counter clockwise 90 degrees and repeat the previous step. The second piece will lie over top of the first piece.

Again, pin the piece to hold it in place.

Repeat these steps again for the third and fourth star point. The fourth piece will need to be tucked inside of the third piece.
I like to secure the center and a few key points with some hidden stitches. Tack the star where the dark pins are. I also tack the star along one side of each star point. Be sure you use a hidden stitch.

Choose a coordinating fabric from your layer cake. Cut this 10” square into four 2 ½” strips.
Sew a strip onto the left side and the right side of the star block. Press and trim off the excess. Then sew a strip to the top and the bottom. Press.

Now you have a block that is 10”. Make 10 star blocks.

Using a 2 ½” sashing piece between each block, arrange your quilt with a star block, then a plain 10” layer cake square. Make five rows with four blocks each, alternating the star blocks and the plain blocks. I write the row # on a piece of paper and pin it on the left hand side of each row.
~ I cut 12 long 2 ½” strips from the 2 yard cut of sashing fabric first. I did not want to seam the sashing. ~

Sew the rows together with a 2 ½” sashing strip between each.

Add another 2 ½” border of the sashing fabric around the outside.

Cut the remaining 12 layer cake pieces into 2 ½” strips. Using various lengths, make a scrappy border. Make two of the rows 60” long and two rows 72” long. This will give you plenty of scrappy border to work with.
Sew the scrappy border on next.

Add another 2 ½” outer border of the sashing fabric.

Quilt as desired. When you quilt the top, I think it makes the stars really pop if you do not quilt on top of them.

Bind and enjoy!

One 56” x 68” quilt that is perfect for keeping cozy while you dream of spring.

Spring Flowers Easter Wreath

Spring has finally sprung in my end of the world and I can not tell you how excited I am! It seems like it’s been a very loooong winter.  I can’t wait until all of the beautiful flowers are in bloom. 
Inspired by spring, I created this fun and easy spring flowers wreath. I used the gorgeous Hunky Dory  line of fabric and fell in LOVE with all of the wonderful colors and patterns. I added a little bunny made out of fun foam to make it perfect for Easter! 
Stop by my blog, the Polkdadot Chair and say hi! Or visit my pattern shop fourteenmay and check out some of my other sewing patterns! 

All fabric is Chez Moi, Hunky Dory
1 Layer Cake
1 Charm Pack
1 Jelly Roll
*note you will not use all of your fabric from each, you’ll have plenty of fabric left over for other projects*
Styrofoam Wreath
Wonder Under
Pearl Head Pins, white and colored
White covered floral wire
5 yards Burlap Upholstery Tape (buy it next to the upholstery tacks at your fabric store)
White Glitter Fun Foam (yep,  You read that right!)

Other pins, shapes, colored buttons or pins… it’s up to you!

To begin you want to wrap your styrofoam wreath completely with the burlap tape.  I used small pins every few inches to make sure it stayed flat. It won’t be perfectly flat .. just do your best. 

After you have wrapped your wreath set it aside.

Pick out some charm pack and layer cake pieces that you like.  I used 6 layer cake pieces and 8 charm pack pieces for my flowers. I put them in stack of 2 based on color (i.e. 2 blue ones, 2 yellow ones)

Cover the back half of the pieces (you will cut your wonder under to 10×10 or 5×5) of them entirely with wonder under.  Peel off the backing and press the other fabric piece to it wrong sides together. This will give you double sided fabric.

Using a “fade away” fabric pen, Start tracing your flowers.  I have uploaded some templates for you to use here. (please note these templates are not for commercial use).  Fit the large flowers on first then start tracing your smaller flowers.  Cut them out.   You will want to trace flowers on all 3 of your layer cake pieces and all 4 of your charm pieces.  I also used 2 butterflies on my wreath, if you want them make sure to trace them on your fabric and cut them out. 
I had 3 large flowers on my wreath. The large flower pieces will not hold their shape by themselves. You will need to add wire to the back of them to help form them.  Take a piece of your white floral wire and center it on the back of one of your flower petals.  Using a zig zag stitch, stitch down the center of the petal over the top of the wire.  
When you are done it should look like this on the back. Do this with all the flowers that are large (over 6″).
Generously starch and press all remaining smaller flower pieces. The ones that you can, press the petals in half (with your iron). This will help to make them stand out more (as will the starch) 
Take some of your flowers and using a curling iron, curl the edges up (make sure you starch them first).
Now just start layering your flower pieces. Just layer them as you like, try to get a variety of shapes and colors on each flower. On the wired pieces bend the petals into a pleasing shape. 
Lay the flower on top of your wreath where you like and place a button in the center of the flower.  Using pearl head pins, attach the flower to the wreath through the button holes. 
Just fill up your wreath with flowers. I recommend placing the largest flowers on first, then filling the empty spaces with the smaller ones. 
Fold your butterfly in half and press. Open it up and attach to the wreath also.  I used colored pearl head pins down the middle and 2 white pins for it’s antennae. 
To make the large posy flower on the wreath you just need 2 jelly roll strips. Jelly roll strips make PERFECT flowers since they are long, skinny and have pinked edges. If you want you could make the whole wreath out of these strips if you don’t want to cut out flowers.
To make them, take one jelly roll strip and with a needle and thread, run a basting stitch ALL the way down the long side. Gather the fabric up as you go and it will naturally form into a circle. To make the smaller posy in the middle, take a jelly roll strip, cut it in half then fold it in half lengthwise.  Then run a gathering stitch (by hand) down the folded side of the strip.  Place over the larger posy and sew them together. 

To make the bow, take two jelly roll strips and place right sides together. Sew around 3 sides leaving one short side open. Turn right side out and press.  
Tie into a bow and place on the wreath. Use pins to put the ribbon tails where you like and to help “poof” out the bow. 
Cut your bunny out of fun foam.  Cut 2 small scraps of fabric  for the inside of the “ears” and using spray adhesive place on top of the foam.  Slowly stitch around the fabric to attach it . (yep, you can sew through fun foam, it was pretty easy 🙂
Take another scrap of fabric and tie it around the bunny’s neck for a bow. Sew a small black button on for an eye.  Using pins attach to the center of the wreath.
Note: If you don’t like the idea of using fun foam, you can also make the bunny out of white felt, using the technique I used to make the bird here. 

At least 3 maybe 4 wreaths if using a layer cake, charm pack and jelly roll.

Fabric Candy Dishes

1 jelly roll OR honey bun. {hunky dory featured.}
1/4 – 1/2 yard fabric.
cellophane or plastic wrap.
2″ foam brush.
mod podge or elmer’s glue all.
glass bowl.

pick out your favorite bowl.
{or a bowl you like the size & shape of.}

take some jelly roll strips and cut them in half.
{i cut right on the fold.}

flip your bowl so the bottom is up.
cover the outside of your bowl in cellophane.
{make sure you get all the air out.}

dump your mod podge or glue into a bowl.
{this will ensure a much easier work environment. trust me.}

paint a thin layer of glue all over the cellophane.

lay a jelly roll strip, right side down, across your bowl.
paint another thin layer of glue over your strip.

keep layering strips and gluing until the bottom is completely covered.

take your piece of fabric, right side up, and drape it over your bowl.

start pressing the fabric against the bowl.
remember: pleats are good. they add character.

trim your excess fabric off.

paint another coat of glue all over your fabric.

set your bowl out in the sun to dry.
make sure you check on it periodically.
{you’d hate to find debris dried on your fabric.}

note: i placed my bowl on aluminum foil.
it attracts the sun and helps it dry faster.

when your bowl is completely dry, take it out of it’s mold.
your fabric bowl should look something like mine.
bad hair day & all.

trim those stragglers.

and add the good stuff.

now stand back and check out your easy, peasy homemade candy dishes.

note: to reverse the look of the bowl, like i did with the smaller one, let the jelly roll strips show on the outside with the whole cloth on the inside.
it’s fun to mix & match.

this is a great craft to do with kids.
my kiddos love making these.

& they’re perfect for every holiday.
gotta love all those holiday fabrics & candies.

hope yall enjoy!!!

rachel of p.s. i quilt

Cobblestone Road Quilt and Pebbles Doll Quilt

by Julie Sebire of Narioka.
Welcome to my first Moda Bake Shop tutorial.
Cobblestone Road Quilt and matching Pebbles doll quilt, made using Honey Buns from the very pretty Hunky Dory collection.

2 honey buns
2.5 yards backing 
20 inches binding
20 inches of two co-ordinating fabrics for pieced backs (optional).
2 yards batting.
Note:  Save any unused strips and off-cuts as you go.  With careful cutting there will be enough fabric left over to make the Pebbles doll quilt too.
Step 1:
From the first honey bun separate the strips into seven groups of five strips each.  There will be five strips left over, just put aside.   Try to vary the colours in each group then join them together sewing from selvedge to selvedge.  See image below.

Step 2:
Take your second Honey Bun and two of the leftover strips from step one.  From each strip cut ten, 3.5 inch long pieces.
Step 3:
The 3.5 inch long pieces will make up 84 of these rectangle blocks.  One color for the centre and four pieces of another fabric for the border.  Join the two sides to the center piece first.  Then add the top and bottom pieces.  See below.

Step 4:
Arrange the rectangle blocks in rows of fourteen, mixing the colors as you go.  There will be six rows.  

Step 5:
Using the finished quilt image below as a guide, lay out the seven rows of complete strips and six rows of rectangles, alternating between the two.  You may need to rearrange rows until you are satisfied with the position of various colors.  

Step 6:

Starting from the top.  Sew your first row of strips to the first row of rectangles.  Start close to one side.  The rows of strips will be wider than the row of rectangles.  After joining each row of strips onto rectangles, square up the edges making the rows of strips the same length as the rectangle rows, see below.   

Tip:  Its much safer to trim off the excess than cut your rows to an exact size before joining them together.   There are a lot of seams using narrow pre-cuts so you will find a slight error in seam width can make quite a difference over a complete quilt.    
Step 7:
Once all your rows are together, your quilt top is complete.   Fabric from a regular 44 inch bolt of fabric can be used for backing as the quilt top will be almost the same width.  If you are sending your quilt to be professionally quilted, your backing may be required to be wider than the quilt top.  To alleviate this problem I insert a pieced section into the backing, alternatively you can use a wider quilt backing.  You may not need to do this if you are quilting by hand or on a domestic machine.   See pieced back below.  It adds a little extra interest to the quilt too.

Step 8:
You can now baste, quilt and bind your quilt.  You will have enough scrap fabric left over to make the following matching doll quilt.

Pebbles doll quilt.

Step 9:
Gather all unused strips and off-cuts from the previous quilt.   Before you start, lay out your pieces roughly to see if you need to incorporate any additional fabric from a co-ordinating fabric to increase the size.   With  careful cutting, there should be enough scraps to make a reasonable sized doll quilt.  

Join left-over sections of strips together, see image below.  
Step 10:
Cut across these strips in 1.5 inch widths.

Step 11:
Arrange different strips and sew together.  Make as many blocks like this as your scraps will allow, then join blocks together to make the small dolls quilt top.  

Step 12:

Baste, quilt and bind.

One quilt, single bed topper, 42.5 x 65.5 inches.
One matching doll quilt from leftover scraps, 20.5 x 16.5 inches.
A lovely quilt for a little girl and her favorite doll.

Snuggly Layer Cake Throw

My name is Melissa Mortenson of the Polkadot Chair blog and fourteen may patterns.  For Christmas this year I wanted to make my daughter a warm and cozy lap quilt, I wanted it to be cute but I needed to make it fast! (since I always over commit myself at Christmas time!!).
All this throw takes is one layer cake and it’s backed in plus fabric, (I recommend Moda Snuggles)  to make it super soft! Great for all of those cold winter days! It also makes a great project for a beginning quilter.

1 Layer cake, I used Hunky Dory by Chez Moi
1/2 yard fabric for binding
Cotton Batting (I use quilters dream cotton)
2 yds Snuggles for backing
thread to match backing fabric

Applique letters or machine embroidery

Sort your layer cake into piles based on the predominant color. It is very important to pick out all of your layer cake pieces before you start cutting, otherwise you won’t have enough of each color to complete the pattern.

The colors I chose were pinks, creams, yellows, blues, greens.

Save out one layer cake piece that you really like (one with a large or unique print) for your center block.

Set aside 6 each of 3 different colors for your strip blocks.
Set aside 8 blocks of one of your other colors (blue in my case)
Set aside 8 blocks of your last color (green in my example)

Take your 3 strip colors of and begin cutting the layer cake pieces into strips. Cut them to 3 1/3″ wide (leave them 10″ tall for now).

When you are done you should have
18 pink strips
18 creams strips
18 yellow strips.

With the cream in the center, begin sewing the 3 colored strips together, taking care to vary the patterns so that you do not have 2 blocks that are exactly the same.

Press your seams to one side.
Trim your entire block to 9″ x 9″
Repeat until you have 18 sewn blocks.

Take 8 blue blocks and trim them to 9×9. Do the same for your 8 green blocks, and your center feature block.
If desired applique or machine embroidered a name to the center of your center feature piece.

Begin sewing the blocks into rows using the diagram below.

Press seams to one side, alternating each row (example press the seams of all of the odd rows to the right and the seams of all the even rows to the left).

When your quilt top is assembled, cut a piece of cotton batting and your snuggles about 3″ wider on each side than your quilt top.
Using basting spray, assemble your quilt “sandwich”.

With a fabric pen/pencil (something that will wash off) draw diagonal lines on the quilt top according to the diagram above (the dashed lines are your stitching lines).

I chose to use a thread that would match the snuggles but contrast the top of the quilt. Using a walking foot,  first quilt a stitch in the ditch down the long side on each side of the center column, then once down the short side on both sides of the center row. This will stabilize your quilt to help prevent stretching as you finish quilting it.    Stitch in the ditch the remaining rows/columns of the quilt. (you are quilting around each square).

Then quilt along the diagonal lines you drew.

Bind as desired.

Finished quilt measures: 42″x57″ (after washing)

1 quilt per layer cake

Reversible Car Seat Cover

Hello again from Lilac Lane! I am having a great giveaway right now, so come over and visit me. My daughter has been begging for this for about a year now! Just one jelly roll yields a completely reversible and totally washable car seat cover. This tutorial is adapable to all (I think!) car seat and booster seat covers.

If you have one of these:
Then you probably have one of these. Ugh!

And if your little princess is anything like mine, it’s not her favorite place to be for the next four or five years. Why not make one that’s just for your child’s personality? Plus you can add extra cushion, like my chiropractor suggests. Your child will thank you!

  • 1 jelly roll (I used Hunky Dory by Chez Moi)
  • 1 twin sized quilt batting or several large batting scraps
  • 5 or 6 feet of 1/4 inch elastic
  • 8 inch piece of velcro
1. Remove the cover from your plastic car seat / booster seat. Mine appeared to be glued on, but was just the gunk spilled onto the seat at one time or another (eww!) Salvage any connecting pieces you can. These two doo-hickeys hold the cover onto the seat.

2.Turn the cover upside down and look at it. It was probably made in several sections, which you will be replicating in your new car seat cover! For example, my booster seat was made in six sections: 1. the seat back, 2. the seat bottom,  3. an apron around the seat front, 4 and 5. two side panels, and 6. a small, long piece around the seat back.

2. Estimate the number of strips you will need for the front of the car seat and then lay them out in a pleasing way. My booster seat needed twelve strips for the seat back, bottom, and side panels and three strips for the apron. Another two strips were used for the part around the seat back, but don’t worry about that right now. I wanted to arrange my strips diagonally. If vertical or horizonal is desired, less strips are probably needed.

Sew all these strips together with a quarter inch seam and then press them flat.

3. Place the fabric under your old car seat cover at the angle you wish and roughly cut out each piece, about an inch larger than the piece on all sides. Just leave the apron piece its full length. You will trim it later.

4. Repeat steps two and three with the reverse side fabric. You can make a whole new look this way! If your seat is significantly larger than mine, you may want to use coordinating fabric for this step, as I only had three strips left over.
It’s important to cut these out right sides together, so that when we assemble them, they will match up just right.

5. Now it’s time to “quilt” our fronts and backs together. Depending on the loft of your batting, determine how many layers to use. I use low loft batting, and using scraps, here is how much I used:

  • seat back: 3 layers
  • seat bottom: 4 layers
  • apron front: 1 layer
  • side panels: 1 layer

Take two pieces (such as the two for the seat back) and carefully line them up with the batting sandwiched in the middle of them. I do this by feel, making sure that the edges are right together. Pin all around this and then quilt the layers.

6. You can see how I quilted this with my walking foot, straight down the rows. Of course, on the backside the rows went another direction. This made a nice diamond pattern on the backside. If this bothers you, use your darning foot and free motion quilt it. Or you could tie it with bits of embroidery floss all over. (If so, I would put the knots to the side you think you will use less.)

7.Repeat this with all five pieces. Don’t worry about batting in the layer that goes around the quilt back. Likewise, your chair may have more or less pieces than mine. Use your judgement on the amount of batting and where to quilt, always keeping the comfort of the child in mind.

8. Now it’s time to make the piece that goes around the outside of the seat back. This will also finish the upper edge of the car seat. I used two full length pieces to make this, but measure the upper back of your car seat. You may have to add more length or take some away. Also, if you use more width (such as three or four pieces wide) it may be possible to make a small casing around the upper edge in which you can run a piece of elastic to hold the top of the cover to the upper lip around the car seat. (I wish I had done this!)

Press the piece in half lengthwise and then press a quarter inch hem line down each side.

9. Carefully place this piece evenly around the top and pin in place, once again feeling both sides to make sure they exactly line up. I find it is easiest to begin the the middle and work down each side so that it’s not “wonky.” Top stitch closely to the edge all the way around. Check to make sure you caught the fabric on the back. Don’t worry too much if you have a little pucker here and there. You will never notice on the finished product.

10. Now sew this seat back piece to the seat bottom. (There will be an unfinished seam on one side.) This is a good time to see how everything’s fitting and make adjustments. It’s starting to look like a car seat!

11. This is also a good time to feel for those holes which ancor the cover to the seat and mark them.

12. Carefully cut out the holes and then zigzag around them. I set my zigzag on 0.7 length and 3.5 width.
13. Sew your side panels on and then the apron. Guess what? The general construction is finished. All that’s left is finishing edges and anchoring straps! This is a good time to check the fit once again.
14. Cut the bottom edge of the apron, following the contours of the bottom of the seat. Once I cut one side, I flipped it over and used it as a template for the other side so they would exactly match.

15. Look at the bottom of the cover and examine your unfinished seams. Trim them to about a quarter inch. Choose strips to cover these seams. Mine required two full strips.

16. Press these strips so that the first crease measures to the center of the unfolded strip. And then fold the other side over on top of it. This will look like a piece of folded bias tape.

17. Topstitch these pieces over both sides of the unfinished seams. This requires just a little planning. First, make sure to do the seams that will leave raw edges toward the middle so that you can enclose those raw edges with later pieces of trim. Second, make sure to sew inside curves before the outside curves. This causes less puckering. And finally, leave a tail of the trim at both ends so that you have plenty to enclose. Oh! And don’t forget to firmly hold the cover part so that it remains flat underneath your piece of trim. Make sure you topstitch both edges of your trim pieces.

18. I applied trim in four different places. They blend in so well, that they are hard to see!

19. Choose a few more strips (mine took two) to finish off the seams. Sew the strips together, end to end and then press in half.

20. Sew this on exactly like you would sew on the binding of a quilt. Sew the raw edges of the binding to the raw edges of the cover with the folded edge to the left of your foot. Then pull this edge to the other side of the cover and topstitch along the fold to finish the cover.

21. All that’s left is anchoring! My cover was anchored to my seat by little clips, but they never seemed to stay in place. Halfway down the seat is a set of hooks, So I measured from the top of the seat to the hooks, which was 17 inches. Taking that measurement times 2, (34 inches), I cut 33 inches of 1/4 inch elastic. (It’s stretchy!)

 22. Now measure from the front edge to the middle of the back, in this case 13 inches. Cut two pieces from a strip, both about 15 inches so you have room to overlap them in the middle.

23. Press a quarter inch seam down each side of the strip and both ends and then press it in half. Topstitch along the ends and the open side.

24. Sew the elastic to the middle of the top of the cover at two places. Secure your stitches by going over them several times.

Then sew the two strap pieces to the bottom of the piece you sewed around the seat back. Pull these to the back and pin where they overlap. making them fairly tight, but still making sure your seat back is comfortably against the back of the chair. I then sewed an eight inch piece of velcro to each strap so that it is fully adjustable.

25. Take note of how the bottom of the old seat cover was secured to the chair.

26. Replicate this on your cover with elastic. Make sure to secure it well with lots of stitches and backstitches. I used two 11 inch pieces of elastic.

Time to hit the road! Take care and come visit me at Lilac Lane for a great giveaway.

Love, xoxo

Child’s Apron, Chef’s Hat and Oven Mitts

  Hi! I’m Melissa Ann from Lilac Lane. I’m SO excited to share my first goody with you. Today we are making a child’s apron, chef’s hat and play oven mitts. If you would like to win the ensemble pictured above, hop on over to my blog. I’m having a giveaway for it! Otherwise, here are the instructions you need to make it for yourself. In fact, one jelly roll makes two complete sets. Yummy! Enjoy.

1 delicious jelly roll of Hunky Dory by Chez Moi
1/2 yard of coordinating fabric
1/2 yard double sided fusible quilt batting

6 inches by about 20 inches of a soft knit fabric

Step 1. Choose eight fabric strips from your jelly roll. Make sure you really like them and that the same colors are neither next to each other nor at the same place from the other end. (the second and seventh strips should not be the same color, also the 1st and 8th, 3rd and 6th, 4th and 5th.) Sew them all together using 1/4″ seam allowance. (Yes! I’m a quilter.)
Step 2. Zigzag or overlock all your seams. My son calls this “going zigzag.” It takes a bit but ensures your seams won’t fray. Then press the seams all the same direction.


Step 3. Cut 8 – 2 1/2″ strips across the 8 rows you just sewed together. Turn these back and forth so that every other row is the same and sew together with 1/4″ seam.

If you pressed your seams the same direction in step 2, they will lock together in the back and make really nice looking squares on the front. They should look something like this.

And here is the front. The seams match really well this way.

Step 4. Zigzag again (sigh). Then press. Fold your piece of fabric in half.

Then fold in half the other way, making a square.

Step 5. There will be two folded sides. Taking your ruler, mark eight inches from the corner between the two folded sides. Mark the eight inches at several points, forming an arc. A compass would be good for this. Join the marks and cut.

You will have a nice circle.

Step 6. Sew two rows of gathering stitches all around the circle at 1/4 and 3/8 inches from the edge. For my sewing machine, this means setting the stitch length to 5. Pull up the gathers some, but not too much. You want this part of the hat to be a little bit bigger than the band.
Step 7. Measure the child’s head. In the absence of a child to measure, my two year old measures 19 inches, four year old 20 inches and 6 year old 21 inches. This hat fit all three of them.

Step 8. Cut a piece of stretchy knit fabric six inches wide by one inch less than the child’s head circumference. For this hat, I used six inches by 19 inches.

Step 9. Sew across the knit fabric. This was probably the hardest step for me as my machine does not like knit fabrics. I went over it two or three times. If your machine has a stretch stitch, this will greatly help.

Step 10. Fold the hat band in half. It should look like this.

Step 11. Pin the gathered part of the hat into the hat band. Since the band is very stretchy, it’s okay if the gathered part is bigger — you can ease it as you go.

Step 12. Sew all the way around the hat, joining the hat band to the gathered fabric. I used a seam just a bit larger than 3/8 inches so that I didn’t have to pull out the gathering thread when I was finished. I find that it is a bit easier if you put the gathered part on top and the knit on the bottom against the feed dogs. Then, you guessed it, zigzag all the way around your seam.

Hat’s finished!

Step 13. Take the remaining fabric you sewed together earlier. I told you to make sure you really liked it! It should be about 23 inches. Cut it in half (two 11 1/2″ pieces.)

Step 14. Set the two pieces side by side. Sew together and finish seam.

Step 15. Fold the edges over and press 1/4 inch, and then 1/4 inch again. Sew down this seam about 1/4 inch from the edge to finish it.

Step 16. Choose a strip to edge the bottom of the apron. Press a 1/4″ seam down each side and then press the whole thing in half. On the end you will start with, press a 1/4″ seam on the short (2 1/2″) side of the fabric.

Step 17. Open up your pressed strip and sew along the first pressed indentation. Sew with the right side of the strip facing the wrong side of the bottom of the apron. When you reach the end of the apron, cut about 1/4″ extra, fold this in to be even with the end of the apron skirt and sew across to the end of the apron skirt.
Step 18. Fold the edging over to the front side of the apron and edge stitch across it.
Step 19. Choose four strips for the apron ties. Similar colors would probably look nicest. Set these aside for just a bit.

Step 20. Choose four colors for the apron bodice and for the oven mitts. If you are making this for a bigger child, this would be a good place to add a strip or two. Sew them together with 1/4″ seam. No need to zigzag the seams this time (hooray!) Cut the strip of four sewn strips into 4 – 8 inch squares and 1 8 x 9 inch square. Also cut a piece of coordinating fabric to 8 x 9 inches. Set the four 8 x 8 inch pieces aside for later.

Step 21. Gently curve the corners of the top of the bodice.

Step 22. With right sides together, sew all the way around the apron bodice and apron facing (coordinating fabric) with 1/4″ seam. Clip the curves. Turn inside out and press. Make two large button holes approximately 1 1/2 inches in from each side and 1/2 inch from the top.
Step 23. Now take the four tie pieces. Sew two together at the short ends and then the other two together in the same way. Then pin the two ties together. Pinning is a must here! Leave a twenty inch gap centered in the middle of the ties. I marked this with two pins. Sew all the way around everything but the marked twenty inches in the middle.

Step 24. Clip the corners and then turn the whole thing inside out. Press it flat. Then press a 1/4″ seam into the center part which wasn’t sewn.

Step 25. Center the apron bodice into the tie. It will be a little sandwich: apron bodice between two unsewn tie pieces. Gather the apron skirt across the top like you did with the hat. Adjust your gathers so that the skirt is two to three inches wider than the bodice on each side. Then center the apron skirt into the tie in the same way.

Step 26. Edge stitch around the entire thing. I like to edge stitch all the way around the ties so you never have to worry about them getting a little wonky when you wash the apron. Check the back when you’re finished to make sure you caught the back side of the tie. If not, rip out a little and try again. If you caught it all, then great! Move on to the next step.

Step 27. Choose a fabric for the strap and cut it down to 30 inches. If you are enlarging the pattern, make it a little bit bigger. Make a strap exactly how you made the bottom trim in step 16. Edge stitch all the way around this piece.

Step 28. Thread one side through and knot two or three times so that it won’t come out of the button hole. Then thread the other side through and knot once or twice so that it will, with effort, come out of the button hole.

The placement of the knots will determine the length of the apron.


Note: These oven mitts are for play only and not to be used in a real oven.

Step 29. Take the four 8 x 8 fabric pieces you already cut and then cut four 8 x 8 pieces for facing from the coordinating fabric. Also cut four 8 x 8 or a little larger pieces of the quilt batting.

Step 29. Make this into a quilt sandwich by ironing the front fabric to one side and the back fabric to the other side. Then quilt it by sewing down the seam lines or any other look you would like to quilt.

Step 30. Trace a large mitten around the child’s hand or download the PDF file I have made. Then position the hand onto each of the four quilt sandwiches and cut out. It’s VERY IMPORTANT to cut two one direction and two the other. In other words, the best way to do this is to place two fabrics with the facing sides together and cut both at the same time. Otherwise, you will end up with the facing showing on one side of the mitt.

Step 31. Sew all the way around the mitt and clip the curvy parts and the thumb indentation part.

Step 32. Turn the glove right side out and press. Measure across the opening. Take this measurement times 2 and then add 1/2 inch. Mine is 4 inches across. Taking it time 2 is 8 inches and and extra half inch is 8 1/2. Cut a strip this size. Press it as you did in step 16. Then open it up and sew the two ends together.

Step 33. Then fold it back on its fold lines and position over the mitt. Edge stitch all the way around. Check the inside to make sure you caught everything. If you did, you’re finished! Congratulations!

2 aprons

2 chef’s hats
4 play oven mitts
Happy baking!
Don’t forget to enter my drawing to win this very set!